In detail: DIY bumper repair materials from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Often in the traffic flow you can find a car with a cracked or deformed buffer. What can you do, no one is safe from unsuccessful parking or a minor accident. However, this is not a reason to continue driving a car that has lost its "shiny" appearance - there is a practical experience of restoring the original state of this element.
The external plastic components are mainly made of thermoplastic plastics. The technology for restoring such products is based on welding, it is this technology that allows you to get rid of through cracks and even recreate broken fasteners. Actually, the procedure is not much more complicated than preparing and spray paint damaged area of the car body.
Some car enthusiasts assure us that we repair the bumper with our own hands using metal brackets. But the experienced car owner knows that like is treated like this, that is, repair plastic rods are used for soldering. Their composition, color and profile are different; the required core is selected according to the marking on the buffer.
Making the right choice means guaranteeing a high-quality repair, because the mismatch of materials will significantly reduce the life of the automotive element. To find out what the cracked bumper is made of, it is enough to carefully examine the inside of the part. Depending on the marking, the following conclusions are drawn:
- PP - polypropylene base.
- ABS (GF, PAG 6) are hard plastics.
- PUR - polyurethane.
Plastic welding requires high temperatures, for example, 400-450 ° C is suitable for propylene, and 500 ° C is necessary to restore an ABS structure. Many car owners will learn how to repair a bumper with their own hands in a video where craftsmen use an ordinary 100 W soldering iron.
Video (click to play). |
You can also restore a damaged part using pieces from a bumper with a similar marking. They are cut into strips 8 mm wide for PUR, and 4-5 mm for polypropylene.
Almost any breakdowns are treated by welding, even broken parts are reanimated. However, no one canceled the economic feasibility of such work, because the restoration of numerous defects can hardly be called justified. The cost of a complete restoration and staining will be more expensive than a new buffer.
Certain tools are required to complete the repair. These can be both ordinary household appliances and professional tools. The ideal kit includes the following items:
- Orbital sander or sanding block.
- Grinding wheels of various grain sizes.
- Mini drill like Dremel or drill.
- Clamps and rubber spatula.
- Soldering iron and hair dryer.
- Metallic tape.
Of the materials for restoring a cracked buffer, you may need:
- Putty and primer.
- Brass mesh for crack reinforcement.
- A can of paint or a can of paint.
- Plastic repair rods of the required configuration and composition.
The damaged part must be dismantled in order to eliminate, firstly, excessive stress in the crack area. Those who have already done such work will say that now we clean the bumper and only then repair it with our own hands.
The cracked parts fit together. For reliability, they are fixed with metal tape from the outside of the part. If the breaks are quite significant, then clamps will be needed to clamp the edges of the cracks. Their number depends on the complexity of the repair.
When restoring PP-based parts, the reinforcing mesh is not used. The process begins with the fact that a nozzle with a nozzle with a diameter of 5-7 mm is installed on the hair dryer. In the future, work is carried out according to the following points:
- On the inside of the buffer along the crack joint, use a Dremel mini-drill to make a groove for the plastic rod.
- Using a hair dryer, melt and place the repair rod into the prepared groove.
- Clean the front part of the bumper with an orbital sander with P240 attachment and repeat the welding procedure similarly to the operation on the inside.
- Grind the cooled seam from the outside with a nozzle with the same grit P240, then remove dust from the surface.
- Even out irregularities with a special putty for plastic, try to keep the layer as small as possible.
- Dilute the primer with solvent 3: 1 and apply two coats to the degreased surface. Drying time for the first layer is 15 minutes.
- Apply a developing layer in a contrasting color, followed by sanding with a disc or sandpaper with grit P800 and P1000.
- Eliminate the detected defects with a nitro putty followed by sanding with P1000 sandpaper.
- Remove dust with a damp cloth and degrease the part, then paint plastic decorative paint with overlapping borders 50-100 mm. Apply the paint in 3-4 coats with intermediate drying cycles.
Anyone who is interested in how to properly repair a bumper in a video with their own hands should take into account an important detail. 30-40 minutes after applying the last layer of paint, the part should be varnished. Thus, we get a flawless appearance of the repaired part. Do not forget to follow a few simple rules:
- You should try to apply a minimum layer of putty.
- Take a temporary pause for complete hardening of the putty layer.
- To process the putty area with a grinding wheel or sandpaper with grit P800, and then - P1000.
- It is desirable to apply a developing layer of primer.
In the case of a polyurethane buffer, the preparatory stage in the form of grooving work is excluded. A brass reinforcing mesh is applied to the crack; steel is not recommended for use, because it is prone to corrosion. Alternatively, stapling staples can be used every 10-20 mm. They are recessed into the body of the part across the seam, it is imperative to make sure that the bracket does not go through the part.
Further, the repair technology does not differ from the restoration of a polypropylene part. Wire mesh or staplers should be sunk into the plastic. Only after that, the seam is filled with repair plastic and soldered from the opposite side. Some important points of technology should be taken into account:
- It is necessary to solder the mesh or staples carefully so as not to overheat the plastic, otherwise it may deform from the opposite side.
- For a complete DIY repair of a polyurethane bumper, the width of the reinforcing mesh should be 15-20 mm.
- It is better to press in the mesh or staples with a flat object.
- If the legs of the staples pierce the plastic through and through, then they should be shortened using side cutters.
- For the convenience of working with metal elements, you can use tweezers.
- To prevent the new enamel from peeling off, it is necessary to grind the paint over the entire plane of the part.
Puttying and painting are performed in the same way as described above - according to the traditional scheme. Repair work on the restoration of the buffer can be combined with painting the car , so the consumption of materials will be more rational. It is important to determine in advance the feasibility of carrying out restoration work. If there are significant costs in the future, then it is better to buy a new part.
Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to your car's bumper. If not you, so you. If it is solved through the insurance company, it is good.If the insurance does not roll, then there are two options: trust the professionals (it often happens here too) and pay not a small amount, or do bumper repair yourself.
It all starts with a damage assessment. Usually the bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese equivalent. If the bumper has suffered quite seriously, then there can be no question of any restoration of it - it will be more expensive. It is advisable to carry out repair work on the restoration of a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.
Before repairing, it is advisable to remove the bumper, for convenience. The entire restoration process, up to painting, can be conveniently performed at a separate stand.
- Remove the damaged bumper;
- Remove the paintwork from the damaged area;
- To clean the outer and inner surfaces with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides from damage. The layer of paint removed during cleaning should be at least 0.2 mm, since the top layer of the surface during operation often changes its properties, which may affect the quality of our repair joint;
- Drill out the ends of the cracks (this will prevent further growth). Here it is the same as when repairing cracks, chips on the windshield with your own hands;
- Make the actual repair - we will consider the methods below;
- Primer and painting - required in most cases.
– Car hair dryer... This is a special device that does not differ in appearance and principle of operation from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the hot air flow from such a hair dryer has a higher temperature and can soften or melt the plastic.
– Soldering iron... You can use any soldering iron, preferably more powerful. Rosin and tin are not required, not the case.
– Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold the pieces of plastic together. Can be used from an old air filter.
– Priming. A regular spray can of automotive primer is fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, it's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn't matter.
– Putty... Ideal as you solder the cracks, you still need a putty. An exception is if this place is not visible.
– Sandpaper. For grouting putty 40 and 80 numbers, and for grouting the soil already 800.
– Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands is not always comfortable. It is good to use gloves as well.
– A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.
It may be advisable to buy a repair kit that includes elements such as sandpaper, various paint retouching, fillers. Such kits are not that expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use a small package - why do you need a whole cylinder of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.
To begin with, a quality inspection is performed in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other consumables. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.
Now let's take a closer look at the inner side of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) - bumper made of propylene;
PUR mark - polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) - designation of hard plastics.
But this is not a complete list of materials from which bumpers for cars are made.You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbons, but they are very rarely marked and the most that can be found is the manufacturer's data. But if your bumper is made of solid (thermosetting) plastic or carbon, then repairing this type of plastic bumper is different from repairing products from other materials.
If there is a crack on the bumper, then we need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over with the wrong side facing us and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and a crack long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but we are not very carried away, you can just make a hole. After that, the end of the mesh should be covered with melted plastic. Further, in this way, we solder the entire crack.
Let's evaluate the outside of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then nothing needs to be done. Otherwise, we pass the mesh along the outside. Basically, you need to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you grind the filler with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.
Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from a furniture stapler. Select the size of the staples so that their feet do not pierce through the body. If there are no suitable brackets, then you can take others and shorten to the required length. Use tweezers when soldering the fittings to prevent burns.
Place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. Barely emerging cracks and branches are also alloyed. Otherwise, in the future, from vibration, they will develop into splits. In order to protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you melt the bumper along the inside, the face should return to its original shape.
If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to use screws to tighten the crack before soldering. A rather simple but very effective method is proposed.
We take a suspension - exactly it is called a "metal suspension for attaching guides", such are in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.
We cut it with a hacksaw or a "grinder" as shown in the photo, depending on the type of bumper crack. Typically parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.
The figure - blue shows the working holes for the bolts. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, put a plate on the back side, insert a screw into the holes and fix the entire structure with nuts.
If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and not the first time it is better too).
Place a plate on the crack. Drill holes in the bumper through the holes in the plate with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill is closer to the outside edge of the insert hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head “sinks” into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, slightly larger in diameter than the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not cross through! But too small a hole does not need to be done either. And one more thing - you can countersink manually, just by hand, with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw, make a couple of turns - and the desired angle for the head is ready.
We check the quality of the soldering. We stagger in the place of the crack after drying. If everything is flimsy, then you will have to re-solder.However, this cannot be allowed, everything should be done for sure. After splicing the crack, the bumper surface should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.
If the dent is not scratched, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This completes the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hair dryer, and warm up the dent on the back. Warm up usually no more than thirty seconds. Then we wrap a damp cloth around our fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything neatly and without using great force. The main thing is not to transfer everything out. You can do several approaches at a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool down.
In the case when, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further filling and painting the surface.
Chips and scratches
You can deal with them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less flat surface. The pit, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body blocks, if available, but you can rub it with the palm of your hand.
A good result is obtained using liquid plastic that matches your type of bumper plastic. Be sure to consult with your dealer after writing down the type of material for your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to the face of the bumper. Stir the adhesive and the thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mass to masking tape. This is to level the surface of the bumper. Then the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.
Let's prepare a putty by adding a hardener to it. After that, we will immediately apply dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips in place. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.
Wait ten minutes before starting work. We take sandpaper number 80. With the help of movements directed to the left and right edges of the bumper, begins to rub the putty. Sooner or later, you will come to the desired result. Of course, the geometry of the body should be observed if the breakdown appeared in some not very convenient place. Several additional coats of putty can be added to create a more even surface.
Take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. We will check the result one last time. If everything suits you, then you can proceed to the primer. We take cans or turn on the compressor. It is necessary to apply the primer with movements directed, again, to the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw a horizontal line while spraying.
Let the soil dry completely. After that, you will need to take the eight hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the breakdown was, the entire bumper is washed out completely. It should turn dull after drying. And the first layer of soil is completely washed off, leaving only gray dots in the risks and pores on the putty.
We will apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash. Check the flatness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or scars. The surface should be perfectly flat at this stage.
The bumper is now completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as early as possible.
On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, it is necessary to follow all instructions exactly.Only in this case can a good result be achieved.
Procedure for repairs:
we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;
we prepare the epoxy resin for further use;
take a brush and paint over the crack area within 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;
impregnate the fiberglass mat with epoxy resin and place it on the prepared area. In the absence of such material, the mesh used for sealing drywall joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.
Please note that in this procedure, the fiberglass must be repeatedly applied layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. The front side of the product remains not glued. The putty used to hide traces of adhesions and other irregularities must be specially designed for plastic in any case. Next, paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and test the technique in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.
In any case, do not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repair. And will it be an independent repair or repair of a bumper in a car service - you decide.
For the repair of plastic car parts apply special materials and tools, without which it is not possible to carry out a high-quality bumper repair. You also need to know the type of plastic, which is practically impossible to visually determine, therefore most manufacturers leave marking to determine the type of plastic.Now about each of them.
Soldering iron. The most important tool in this matter. Used for joining plastic fragments, mesh reinforcement, for welding seams. The criteria for choosing a soldering iron are quite simple. It is desirable that the handle is wooden, since the plastic one begins to melt after the 3rd bumper. The power is not less than 100 W, otherwise the process of soldering the bumper will turn into a "long-playing song".
Hair dryer. It is also called a professional, construction, industrial, thermal gun. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the power, it must be at least 1600W. The temperature of the directed air flow is also important, depending on the hair dryer, it fluctuates between 80-700 degrees. Air temperature control has 2 options:
1. smooth temperature control - allows the most widespread use of this tool
2. adjustment in several positions
It is better to purchase a hair dryer complete with various attachments for directing the air flow. When purchasing such a kit, be sure to inquire about the overheating protection function. Otherwise, a hair dryer that does not have overheating protection may fail.
There are also hair dryers with electronic temperature control. Due to precise regulation of flow and temperature, they are used for various types of work: plastic repair, metal brazing, hot pressing, welding of various materials.
How to use, it's up to you to choose. It all depends on the area of application of this tool.
Personally, I use such a thermo dryer for welding plastic.
Plastic welding takes place by reinforcing the bumper with a plastic welding rod. Perhaps this is the simplest and most reliable method of bumper repair. Welding rods are versatile and suitable for all types of plastics.
Especially for you, dear visitor to my blog, I recorded a detailed video on how to repair a plastic bumper with a hair dryer using welding rods.
Materials for the repair of bumpers. Bumper repair equipment. Bumper welding.Hair dryer for repairing bumpers. Repair of plastic bumpers. All this in one video.
Fast and reliable. For such bumpers, I give a 2-year warranty, with adequate operation.
CHECKOUT for this thermo hairdryer you can on my website. I guarantee reliability and quality.
Write to me on the mail in the subject line of the letter indicate "THERMO HAIR DRYER".
FULL NAME. Delivery address and telephone number for communication in the federal format.
Delivery time from 3-7 days, depending on the distance.
You can also purchase welding rods separately.
The quantity of goods is limited. Place your order in advance.
Or you can use the feedback form
Thermo-air soldering station. This is a 2-in-1 complex (soldering iron and hot air gun). The advantage over a conventional soldering iron lies in the precise regulation of the heating temperature. Also included are various replaceable tips for different types of work.
Welding "rods". They are used for welding plastic seams using a thermo-gun using special nozzles. you can buy them in specialized stores, or make them yourself from an old bumper.
Fiberglass. Reinforcing material consisting of chopped fibers bonded to each other with a polymeric binder. By impregnation with polyester resin, a strong reinforcing joint is formed. Ideal for bonding and reinforcing plastic car parts.
Putty for plastic. It is applied to plastic parts of a car, has high strength and flexibility, which is important when repairing a bumper.
Primer for plastic (Velcro). Used for wet-on-wet painting. On top of it, any primers and 1-2k are applied. paints. Provides good adhesion to all types of plastics. Convenient to use, dries quickly, in appearance it resembles a liquid-diluted silver metallic. It is a special metal component that is added for easy control of the application process.
Clamp. Auxiliary tool for fixing the part. It is convenient to use when repairing a bumper for connecting and fixing plastic debris.
Melting temperature table for plastics.
It is quite difficult to imagine a vehicle that does not have such a necessary element as a bumper. The main purpose of the part is to protect the body from damage and deformation. When a difficult situation arises, he takes on all the shock and damaging factors. It is for this reason that the question of how to repair a plastic bumper with your own hands is one of the most relevant.
It is easy to guess that the bumper with a high degree of probability can be damaged if the car is used quite intensively and even with very careful operation. The bumper can be damaged not only due to lack of driving experience, but for reasons such as:
- actions of other sloppy and inexperienced drivers;
- the departure of small stones from the movement of other vehicles.
Regardless of the cause and nature of the damage, the appearance of the vehicle after a bumper breakage deteriorates significantly. The car owner automatically wants to solve a similar problem by doing a bumper repair with his own hands.
Ways to eliminate the problem and mechanical damage directly depend on what kind of plan the defect was applied to the car part. Among the most basic types of damage are:
- Scratches, which can be superficial and deep, that is, reaching the ground or to the base layer of the part. This damage must be repaired immediately, as later cracks may appear at the scratch site.
- Cracks - this is a more serious damage to a car part, which belongs to the category of dangerous. Without removing it, it is not recommended to operate the machine.
- Dents - are formed by a strong mechanical effect on the bumper.These injuries are very often accompanied by other adverse manifestations. Scratches and cracks almost always appear next to dents.
- Chips and breakouts... This is a special through damage that has a fairly large area. They appear most often at the edges of the bumper after a collision of the car with a certain obstacle.
Of course, you can contact any service center, but in this case, the cost of restoring the bumper, even with minor damage, becomes much higher than the cost price. Of all the options listed above, it is self-repair that will become the optimal and affordable method for restoring the bumper.
Directly depending on the degree of damage, repair work aimed at restoring the bumper can be divided into local and complex ones. Scratches and small chips of various types on the surface of the paintwork can be eliminated without preliminary dismantling of the part.
It is necessary to work with this element so that access to the outer and inner surfaces of the element is provided. The installation of the part in its original place is carried out after the implementation of the required repair and restoration work.
When carrying out a process such as self-repairing a plastic bumper, you will need to prepare special tools and materials. Among the most important of them are:
Competently thought-out protection will comprehensively protect the respiratory organs, eyes and hands from the effects. This is an automatic guarantee that the body will not be harmed by the spraying of harmful substances in the air and by high temperatures.
Along with the acquisition of the necessary materials and tools, in the preparation process, you need to carry out certain work with the bumper itself. Among the most important points are:
- Removing the bumper from the car body.
- Thorough cleaning of the part from dirt and dust. The surface must be dry and clean.
- Determination of the material from which the bumper is made.
- In areas where restoration work will be carried out on the bumper, it is imperative to remove the applied paint. It is necessary to thoroughly clean and degrease not only the damaged area itself, but also the adjacent space.
- The crack must be drilled with small through holes at the ends before repairing. This will avoid the subsequent spread of damage, its increase in size.
- Any crack has special joint edges. Therefore, before repairing the crack, it will need to be filled at the joints with a special composite.
After completing all the above processes and manipulations, you can start repairing the bumper with your own hands.
The scheme according to which the repair of plastic bumpers will be carried out depends directly on the degree and level of damage. The following recovery techniques may be applicable:
- Gluing - used for parts produced by cold forming. A special polyurethane-based adhesive is used here.
- Heat sealing - Suitable for bumpers that have been hot formed. The bumper fragments are connected using special welding equipment.
- Lamination - the method is suitable for restoring lost fragments similar. It uses a special reinforcing mesh and putty.
- Using flat electrodes... The technique is based on the use of a special construction hair dryer, which melts the electrodes and effectively repairs cracks.
- Soldering - the best option for repairing a bumper in normal home conditions. You will need to use a soldering iron, sandpaper and paint.
- Brazing with reinforcement - suitable for the elimination of large cracks.The process is based on the use of double-sided soldering and simultaneous reinforcement with special staples or metal mesh.
- Pasting - crack elimination is carried out with fiberglass and epoxy glue. The restoration material is applied to the glue and strictly on both sides of the bumper.
Below is a description of the most common and labor-intensive methods of restoring a car bumper, depending on the damage caused.
The previously prepared putty must be prepared according to all the rules of the instructions, add a special hardener there. After that, the resulting mass is applied to the area of the bumper where the damage is located. You need to wait about 10 minutes, take sandpaper No. 80 and grout the composition with special circular movements. The result becomes visible after several manipulations.
Priming work is carried out just as easily. It is required to take a prepared rag and rinse the bumper very well. Once the surface is dry, the entire bumper should be inspected for correct shapes. If there are no dents, you can start priming. This process is carried out according to the following rules:
- Apply the primer in a circular motion towards the left or right side of the element.
- The composition must be allowed to dry completely.
- After that, sandpaper No. 800 is taken and everything is thoroughly overwritten.
- Using a regular water bottle, you need to wash the bumper. In this case, it does not matter where the crack or other damage has formed, the bumper must be washed out completely. As soon as one layer is completely dry, the plastic automatically takes on a matte shade. The top soil is then completely washed off.
- Only then can the second layer of the primer be applied.
Once all the applied layers are dry, a thorough inspection of the part will need to be performed using a lamp. The layers should be perfectly even and make up one piece together.
If, after examining the part, it becomes clear that all coatings are applied as efficiently and evenly as possible, you can proceed to such a process as painting. The room must be prepared, all surfaces that need to be protected from the paint used are closed. The pigment is applied strictly in two or three layers. Drying should take 5 to 10 minutes between each layer.
After applying the required paint coating, the bumper is coated with two layers of varnish. Intermediate drying is also important here. At the end of the painting work, you need to check the quality of the applied compounds again; if smudges are found, light sanding and thoroughly polishing the surface are required.
In the process of restoring the integrity and appearance of the bumper, the upcoming work will depend on the type of damage found. This is an important point, since one option is used for scratches and chips, a completely different method is required to remove a dent.
If you need to carry out repairs with your own hands, or the insurance does not work, or there is no money and desire to contact the service center, you will need to carefully study the nature of the damage. If the driver realizes that the bumper is very badly damaged, you should not try to restore the part on your own, but it is better to purchase a new one. If relatively small chips or dents are found, the problem can be completely eliminated on your own, knowing how to act in this or that case. So, how can scratches, dents and cracks be repaired quickly and effectively.
Elimination of this problem can be carried out by using sandpaper. Material No. 50 is taken and grouting is carried out. In this case, it is necessary to carefully eliminate all irregularities, acting until the surface becomes completely correct in shape.In the course of this process, the damage may become slightly larger in size, but their depth will become much smaller. Do not be afraid of this, after thorough cleaning all the irregularities will be filled with putty.
If there is a desire and certain skills, then instead of putty, you can use a special liquid plastic, which fully corresponds to the type of material from which the plastic is made. After applying this composition, after it has completely dried, it will also be necessary to clean the surface and carefully sand it, sanding it to the most even surface.
To repair a minor dent that did not damage the paintwork, you simply need to heat the deformed part of the bumper. The concave part of the plastic must be heated with a previously prepared thermal or technical hair dryer until the material becomes soft enough. After that, the dent is manually straightened, at the same time giving the damaged section of the bumper the correct geometric shape.
If cracks appear on the surface of the bumper, it will be necessary to use a pre-prepared metal mesh and a soldering iron. The sequence of actions in this case will be as follows:
- The edges of the damage must be brought together and soldered to one side of the mesh. It is advisable to drown it as deeply as possible in the plastic, but you cannot overdo it, as a hole may form.
- The end of the mesh is covered with melted plastic.
- Similarly, you need to walk along the entire crack.
If the damage to the bumper is minor, special construction brackets can be used instead of the mesh. In the process of soldering them, it is recommended to use tweezers, which will prevent burns of the brushes. Bonding actions should be spaced 2 cm apart and along the entire length of the crack.
To prevent the mesh and metal staples from rusting after a while, the items must be covered with special liquid plastic. At the end of all the work that is carried out on the inner surface of the bumper, its front side immediately takes on its original appearance.
Video (click to play). |
The question of how to restore and repair a car bumper with your own hands is relevant for all modern motorists without exception. If you follow the instructions and tips provided in the article, you can repair damage to the bumper with minimal money and time.