In detail: DIY materials for shoe repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Rice. 1. Shoe details:
A piece of marble is needed about 150X200 mm in size, so that you can cut pieces of leather on it for patches on the top of the shoes, since the knife will cut into the wooden board (the plane of the knife moves at an acute angle to the board).
Of the tools you need, first of all, a set of knives, tools for sharpening and dressing knives, a hammer, an awl.
An ordinary boot knife is a steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm wide, 2 mm thick. Its blade is an oblique cut at the end of a plate about 45 mm long (Fig. 2). The non-working part of the knife is covered with leather or wrapped with insulating tape.
Rice. 2. An ordinary boot knife.
A boot knife is a versatile tool. It is used to cut worn-out parts and their parts from shoes, for example, a worn-out part of a heel or sole, to cut out parts necessary for repairing shoes from a new material: vamp, heels, etc.
In addition to the usual boot knife, two more special ones are needed: one for lowering the edges of leather parts (Fig. 3), the other - for cutting leather on the upper of shoes and lining (Fig. 4). Dimensions of the first: length 150-200, width 10-12, thickness 2 mm, dimensions of the second, respectively - 150-180 mm, 8-12 mm, 2 mm.
Rice. 3. A boot knife for cutting the edges of leather parts.
It is made of steel strip 150-200 mm long, 10-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.
Video (click to play).
It is made of steel strip 150 - 180 mm long, 8-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.
After sharpening on a block or sharpening stone, the knives must be sharpened in order to remove burrs from the blades. The straightening is usually carried out on a steel rod with a polished surface 200-250 mm long and 8-14 mm thick. The rod must be tempered and magnetized. Ceramic insulating tubes of arbitrary dimensions can also be used. The editing is performed as shown in fig. 5.
Rice. 5. Editing a boot knife:
A steel rod or an insulating tube is held in my left hand, and a knife - in my right hand, I run the knife blade over the dressing tool from one side or the other until you are sure that the knife has no burrs.
The boot hammer (Fig. 6) has a firing pin with a convex working surface, carefully polished.
Rice. 6. Boot hammer:
To repair shoes, be sure to stock up on materials. These can be uppers, soles, heels and other details from old shoes. After all, not all parts of the shoe wear out so that they cannot be used for repairs. In addition, if you carefully disassemble old shoes, you can find unworn pieces of leather or leatherette for patches.
Adhesive patches can be your first taste of shoemaking. Or maybe you really will become a good shoemaker! It won't hurt in life. Remember: the great chemist D.I.Mendeleev was a first-class master in the manufacture of suitcases. Leo Tolstoy sewed his own boots.
So how do you make adhesive patches?
Most often, boots or shoes manage to leak in places of folds from cracks caused by careless handling of shoes. Then you can put patches on the top, taken from pieces of chrome or artificial leather, as well as textile materials. With careful selection, you can find patches that are the same in color, pattern, thickness, texture with the surface of the repaired shoes to which you are going to glue them. Then the patch will be invisible.
The coincidence of the patch in shape and size with the place where it is going to be installed is achieved as follows. At the top, around the repaired area, draw a line of the patch border with chalk with an allowance of 6-7 mm along the entire perimeter. The patch should have smooth outlines, without sharp corners and depressions.Most often it is cut in the form of a circle or oval (Fig. 7).
The piece of leather selected for the patch is applied with the non-front side to the place to be repaired, smoothed by hand. On the trail of the chalk line, a patch is cut out with scissors, the edges of which are lowered (cut off) with a knife, that is, the non-face side along the entire perimeter. The width of the descent should be equal to the allowance of about 5-7 mm on the patch
Now the section of the top of the shoe where the patch is placed is cleaned with fine sandpaper (sandpaper), dust is removed from it. Instead of a pelt, you can use a file with a fine notch. Pruning is best done on a shoemaking board.
Then glue is applied to the upper of the shoe and the inside of the patch with a brush. Let it dry. Before putting the holes in place, the patch is heated near a heating battery or over an electric heater, but in no case over a burning gas stove - it can easily flare up. After that, it is quickly applied to the top and firmly pressed by hand from the outside and inside, until it adheres firmly to the place. You can use synthetic adhesives made on the basis of synthetic rubbers or synthetic resins, as well as a variety of shoe adhesives, "Moment" and "Phoenix".
When using nitrocellulose glue, which dries quickly, drying and heating are not necessary. The patch with glue is quickly applied and pressed. If the patch is placed at the seam, part of the stitching needs to be ripped up, the threads removed and everything is done as in the previous case. The patch is glued in the same way at the edge of the tightening edge of the top, but it still needs to be reinforced with a thread seam (Fig. 8).
Rice. 8. Leading a manual seam on old punctures.
If the patch is placed at the seam or at the edge of the lingering edge of the top, then it is better to lead the seam along the old machine punctures. But where they are not there, they lead their own hand seam. Threads are used nylon or cotton. It is advisable to rub them with wax, except for the ends. If the threads are nylon, the ends are scorched with a burning match.
The hand stitch is sewn as shown in Figure 9. The first stitch is created by sewing a simple hand-held two-thread stitch. The hand seam should be longer than the outside of the stitching. Its beginning and end come in 2-3 stitches on the outer stitch. The seam is led to completion, where possible - along machine punctures, and the ends of the thread are tied in a knot.
Heels wear out especially quickly. It all depends on how the person walks.
The easiest way to repair a heel.
- The surface of the worn heel is leveled with a boot knife. Sand the cut off place with sandpaper, remove dust from it.
- Choose the material for the heels. It can be a foam rubber plate. Other wear-resistant rubber can also be used. The selected material in size and shape must match the size and shape of the heels.
- Smear the heel and heel with synthetic glue "88" or BF, but best of all with "Moment", dry at room temperature until the solvent evaporates, then warm up the adhesive film before applying to the heel by holding the heel and heel for 1-2 minutes over an electric heating device, for example electric tiles.
- The heel should be pressed against the heel and the connection should be left under load for 30-40 minutes.
- When the heel adheres to the heel, work the side surface with a knife, removing the projections, and sand the heel with sandpaper.
this is not a complete article on shoe repair technology, to be continued.
Information
In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.
I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.
VIDEO
VIDEO
The glue will not hold the sole moment, it can only glue leather and rubber. "Moment" glue does not adhere to synthetic materials.
Soon there will be a master class on heels and preventive measures, I will show and teach you how to do it!
Thank you for your answer, but you can suddenly add a photo of a bottle of glue wherever it comes across. And as for the selection of bread from the masters, so I think so, why pay someone money for something that you can do yourself. Moreover, there are such cases where you cannot contact workshop (for example, in the village), and thanks to your master class, you can repair yourself
The glue is called "Dismakol". It is sold in a shoe store for shoemakers. There are shops that sell shoe repair materials. Such shops should be in all cities. The bottle may not be there. For example, I buy on tap.
Thank you very much! We, women on heels, really need MK. Will wait. And this one, with your permission, I am dragging to my bins.
Or can you tell me how you can remove a cut on a leather jacket, otherwise we don't even have a sensible atelier?
Where is the cut? Take a picture and show, please.
Sorry to wedge myself into this conversation. My sister came to visit, and they cut her cloak on the bus, apparently they wanted to steal the money. So we racked our brains with her how to glue it so that it was not noticeable and came up with it, she wore it for a long time. First, we connected the incision and sealed it on top with ordinary transparent tape to fix this cut. Then, on the reverse side of the skin, at the place of the cut, they glued a pharmacy scotch tape on a rag basis, our Soviet one (it sticks tightly). Again, turn the skin on the face, remove the transparent tape, and grease the place between the two skin incisions with glue over the skin and press the sections together. When dry, you can walk a little with shoe polish in color, the cut is not visible. After that, I help to reanimate all leather clothes for myself, for children, and friends. Of course, experts do not do this, but as an option I really like this method. Once again, I'm sorry for getting in, but I think it might come in handy if I could explain it clearly.
Thanks, I will take note of your method :)
Well Shumaher, you just give out all the secrets of shoemaking) You literally take bread from the masters!
If everyone learns how to make shoes at home, then why are shoe repairmen needed?
I am not greedy! Whoever was lazy before will not do anything himself after my lessons!
You can take away the bread from a real master!
Cool, just super, thank you very much for the detailed MK, just the boots broke in the same way, you can't put it on, but it's a pity to throw it away
Hooray! My favorite, comfortable boots - to live !, probably
such an MK is affordable! Thanks!
just tell me what kind of glue you can use?
Many thanks for such an understandable (even to blondes, far from shoemaking) MK! Can you tell me how to paint the tattered plastic heels of the boots and shoes, it’s a pity to throw away expensive boots .. but I don’t want to wear the tattered ones either ..
You were just in time, Monday or Tuesday, I was going to release an MK on heel painting, so wait a bit!
Thank you very much, because this is a "sore subject" - how many excellent boots are sent to the trash just because of the peeled heels, and for some reason in the workshops they do not always undertake to paint .. I will look forward to it!
Thank you so much for such an understandable MK! You are a true master of your craft.
Thanks! Everything is very clear step by step, concise and intelligible! Without unnecessary unnecessary phrases, everything is just to the point. And the shot is very clear and you can see what and how.
Thank you. Excellent! And don't worry about the "bread" - I wanted to repair it myself, but now, having looked carefully, I realized that I could just ruin my boot, it’s better to the master, but we don’t have it. We'll have to ask someone to take them to the nearest settlement with a master, a knife and glue. Thanks for saving my boot!
Hello! There was such a problem: a perforated leather ballerina was torn at the sole. Can it somehow be repaired, or is it over? Mk on the Internet on patches for perforated shoes I can not find
Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.
I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.
It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.
I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.
- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.
- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.
- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.
- Scissors or a utility knife.
- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.
First, let's shred everything into pieces.
Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.
We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.
Cut out leatherette to size.
And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.
I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.
We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.
We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)
We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.
We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:
But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.
Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.
And we sew where there were factory seams.
This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.
Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.
Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.
Despite the fact that there are many shoe repair shops, sometimes people prefer to do the repair themselves. This is due to the fact that the services of craftsmen are far from cheap, and even not always of high quality. Would you say it's easier to throw out your old shoes or boots? This is not true. Materials are inexpensive, and craftsmen who know how to repair shoes with their own hands can significantly extend their life.
Some people who are familiar with the basics of shoemaking make their own adhesive mix. For example, perfectly sticks acetone with nylon. Hand-made production of rubber glue is a complicated matter that requires significant temperatures, therefore it is easier to purchase a ready-made one.
Sometimes regular “Super Glue” is used to repair shoes at home. It is important that the shoes are absolutely clean and dry. The boot is glued, after preheating the composition with a construction hair dryer. And professional craftsmen do not like molecular glue, since it sets tightly, and it can be quite problematic to fix an accidental flaw.
Important! In workshops, professional solutions are used, such as “Nairit” or “Desmakol”. There are numerous formulation options with various additives. Professionals often use Rapid. However, it is unlikely to be suitable for home repairs, since it is sold exclusively in bulk.
In order to replace the heels on boots or shoes, use a special metal foot or some kind of fixation device.
Use heels with a pin-nail.
To make them sit stronger, the pin is lubricated with superglue.
If the diameter of the nail does not match the heel sleeve, the pin is slightly sharpened or expanded by hitting with a hammer.
After the heel is installed, it is grinded with a special stone or drill, exactly to the thickness of the heel.
This is a rather complicated procedure, and if you are not sure that you will follow it carefully, contact the wizard.
Installing a heel on a wide heel is much easier:
It can be attached to the “Super-glue” after heating it with a hair dryer.
If the heel is leather or wooden, use the "Nairit" composition, and it is applied to both surfaces. Then, after waiting a little, connect and fix both parts.
How carefully the shoe is glued depends on its appearance and how long it will last after repair. For all its seeming simplicity, it is difficult to properly glue the shoes in order to repair the sole. The workshop has special tools for this. However, in some cases, you can use the means at hand.
Parts are preheated and only then glued. Already repaired shoes are kept in a warm room for 24 hours. Only in this case the sole will hold firmly enough.
You can also repair shoes with your own hands using “liquid leather”. This is useful if the upper is worn out or if you stumbled unsuccessfully.
If the skin is seriously torn, but first the product is glued from the inside with gauze or bandage. This is necessary so that the seam made with “liquid leather” does not come apart. The further procedure is as follows:
Shoes are washed, dried, cleaned of lint and scraps of leather.
The place of repair is degreased (any detergent will do).
The composition is selected according to the shade.
Important! Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired color, several multi-colored compositions are mixed. In this case, you can use a special table.
Apply “liquid skin” to the surface to be repaired using a paintbrush. If you press the surface with a piece of leather, you get a realistic relief.
In case of inaccurate application or color mismatch, the composition can be removed within half an hour. Then they wait until the surface is dry, and the composition is reapplied.
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As you can see, shoe repair is not an easy business, but real. Good luck to you!
In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.
I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.
VIDEO
VIDEO
The glue will not hold the sole moment, it can only glue leather and rubber. "Moment" glue does not adhere synthetic materials.
Soon there will be a master class on heels and prophylaxis, I will show and teach you how to do it!
Thank you for your answer, but you can suddenly add a photo of a bottle of glue wherever it comes across. And as for the selection of bread from the masters, so I think so, why pay someone money for something that you can do yourself. Moreover, there are such cases where you cannot contact workshop (for example, in the village), and thanks to your master class, you can repair yourself
The glue is called "Dismakol". It is sold in a shoe store for shoemakers. There are shops that sell shoe repair materials. Such shops should be in all cities. The bottle may not be there. For example, I buy on tap.
Thank you very much! We, women on heels, really need MK. Will wait. And this one, with your permission, I am dragging to my bins.
Or can you tell me how you can remove a cut on a leather jacket, otherwise we don't even have a sensible atelier?
Where is the cut? Take a picture and show, please.
Sorry to wedge myself into this conversation. My sister came to visit, and they cut her cloak on the bus, apparently they wanted to steal the money. So we racked our brains with her how to glue it so that it was not noticeable and came up with it, she wore it for a long time. First, we connected the incision and sealed it on top with ordinary transparent tape to fix this cut. Then, on the reverse side of the skin, at the place of the cut, they glued a pharmacy scotch tape on a rag basis, our Soviet one (it sticks tightly). Again, turn the skin on the face, remove the transparent tape, and grease the place between the two skin incisions with glue over the skin and press the sections together. When dry, you can walk a little with shoe polish in color, the cut is not visible. After that, I help to reanimate all leather clothes for myself, for children, and friends. Of course, experts do not do this, but as an option I really like this method. Once again, I'm sorry for getting in, but I think it might come in handy if I could explain it clearly.
Thanks, I will take note of your method :)
Well Shumaher, you just give out all the secrets of shoemaking) You literally take bread from the masters!
If everyone learns how to make shoes at home, then why are shoe repairmen needed?
I am not greedy! Whoever was lazy before will not do anything himself after my lessons!
You can take away the bread from a real master!
Cool, just super, thank you very much for the detailed MK, just the boots broke in the same way, you can't put it on, but it's a pity to throw it away
Hooray! My favorite, comfortable boots - to live !, probably
such an MK is affordable! Thanks!
just tell me what kind of glue you can use?
Many thanks for such an understandable (even to blondes, far from shoemaking) MK! Can you tell me how to paint the tattered plastic heels of the boots and shoes, it’s a pity to throw away expensive boots .. but I don’t want to wear the tattered ones either ..
You were just in time, Monday or Tuesday, I was going to release an MK on heel painting, so wait a bit!
Thank you very much, because this is a "sore subject" - how many excellent boots are sent to the trash just because of the peeled heels, and for some reason in the workshops they do not always undertake to paint .. I will look forward to it!
Thank you so much for such an understandable MK! You are a true master of your craft.
Thanks! Everything is very clear step by step, concise and intelligible! Without unnecessary unnecessary phrases, everything is just to the point. And the shot is very clear and you can see what and how.
Thank you. Excellent! And don't worry about the "bread" - I wanted to repair it myself, but now, having looked carefully, I realized that I could just ruin my boot, it’s better to the master, but we don’t have it. We'll have to ask someone to take them to the nearest settlement with a master, a knife and glue. Thanks for saving my boot!
Hello! There was such a problem: a perforated leather ballerina was torn at the sole.Can it somehow be repaired, or is it over? Mk on the Internet on patches for perforated shoes I can not find
Now I'll tell you how to glue the sole over the old one - the so-called. “Prevention”. At the same time, I do not pretend to be “exclusive” or “highest quality” of work. But why go somewhere when you can do everything at home with your own hands and with the same result as a shoemaker from a nearby stall will do. So, the summer or winter season is over - we are washing shoes and we are repairing them so that everything is ready for the next season.
The soles of the women's boots were frayed.
The result is finished products.
In the manufacture of shoe repairs, a special tool is used.
Knives are used for cutting and processing materials, parts and repaired shoes. There are knives for cutting the bottom and top of the shoe.
The cutting knife (fig. 14a) is intended for cutting out the details of the top and lining. It is a steel sheet with a length of 150-180 mm, a width of 8-12 mm. The cutting blade is the end of the knife, cut at an angle of 12-15 °.
The blade of the knife should be quenched with tempering 2/3 of the length, polished half the length and sharpened in the working part.
A knife placed between two pins with a distance of 75 mm between them and bent to a deflection value of 16–20 mm should not show residual deflection, as well as kinks or cracks.
The non-working part of the knife - the handle - is covered with leather or inserted into a metal handle.
The cutting knife is used when cutting and lowering patches, workpiece parts, lowering the face layer of the upper of the shoe at the place of placing the patch and other operations.
Shoe knives are a versatile tool and are used for cutting worn-out parts and parts from shoes, cutting out parts from new material and fitting them into place, finishing repaired shoes and many other operations.
A knife with a wedge-shaped point (Fig. 146) is a steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm wide, 1.5-2 mm thick. The wedge-shaped point is formed by an oblique cut at its end and has a length of 45-80mm.
Rice. 14. Knives for shoe repair: a - cutter; b - a boot knife with a wedge-shaped point; c - a boot knife with a curved edge; g - lapis; d - a knife for lowering the welt; e - trimmed; w - stitched
The length of the knife with a curved edge (Fig. 14c) is 210mm, the length of the curved cutting part is 65-80 mm, the thickness of the knife is 1.2-2mm.
The non-working part of the boot knife is covered with leather for ease of use.
Special knives are used to perform a narrow range of operations.
Lapis knife (Fig. 14d) is used to select concave places when processing wooden heels. For the same purpose, use a semicircular chisel.
Knives for lowering the welt are designed for lowering the edge of the front side of the welt, edge, fender attached to the shoe.
Figure 14e shows a knife used in manual finishing operations. It is a figured steel sheet and has a width of 8-10 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm. The blade is already sharpened by the blade, this creates a protective projection for the shoes.
A trimming knife (Fig. 14f) is used for mechanical finishing of shoes. To protect the upper of the shoe from cuts, it has a safety plate secured with a screw. By moving the blade, you can adjust the depth of cut.
A stitched knife (Fig. 14g) is used to cut the stitches in the boot tops flush (level) with the surface of the bootlegs.
A straight awl (Fig. 15a) is a straight metal rod of round or diamond-shaped cross-section with a corresponding sharpening of the point. Length of straight awls 45, 75 and 100 mm. They are used for punching holes, for driving in wooden studs.
Curved awls are distinguished by the curved shape of the working part, they are designed to pierce holes when fastening parts with thread. Curved awl length - 40, 50, 60 and 75mm.
By shape, they distinguish the initial awl (Fig. 156) - a small awl for piercing the details of the upper of the shoe when performing manual seams; insole (Fig. 15c) - for embroidering welts, sewing the edge to the insole, the curvature of the working part of the insole awl is uniform throughout its entire length; plantar (Fig. 15d) - for sewing the soles to the welt. It is distinguished by a large curvature at the tip and a small curvature in the rest. The edge of the awl can be sharpened in different ways.
Awl with a hook (shuttle) is used when sewing with a manual shuttle seam of the top parts (Fig. 15e) and the bottom parts (Fig. 15f).
Rice. 15. Awl for shoe repair: a - straight; b - initial; c - insole; g - plantar; d - straight hooked shuttle awl; e - crooked hook shuttle awl
Awls are made of steel, quenched with tempering, polished in the working part and sharpened. When piercing the plantar skin, the awls should not break or receive permanent deformation.
The non-working part of the awl is fixed in the handle. An awl is driven into a simple handle tightly; when using the handle with the chuck, the awl is inserted into the tube screwed on from the outside and tightened with a nut.
Hand needles are used when sewing shoe parts by hand. The size of the needle is determined by its number. Needles are produced in twelve numbers: the higher the number, the larger the needle. For shoe repair, use needles No. 8, 1 mm in diameter, 40 mm long; No. 9 - 1 mm in diameter, 50 mm long; No. 10 - 1.2 mm in diameter, 50 mm long.
Rasps are used of two types: curves and straight lines. Curved rasp is intended for interior finishing of shoes - sawing off the ends of nails and studs. The length of the double-sided curved rasp is 350mm, the one-sided rasp is 140mm.
The straight rasp is used for the outer finishing of the outsole, sole and heel.Its length is 200 - 250mm, width is 18, 22 and 26mm.
For a 20mm length of a boot rasp there are 9-10 teeth, for a 20mm width there are 7-8 teeth. The rasp teeth are pyramidal and overlap in the length direction.
Rasps are made of tool steel, the working part is hardened. The hardness and sharpness of the teeth are checked by trial filing of a control plate made of tool steel. In this test, the teeth of the rasp should engage with the blade and not slide over it.
There are two types of files for shoe repairs: flat and triangular. Flat ones are used for cutting metal pins and nails on the surface of the heels; triangular - for sharpening awls and other tools. Files are made of steel, cut with a finer notch and hardened to a higher hardness than rasps.
Lingering pliers are used for manual tightening of individual sections of the lingering edge of the upper of the shoe, broken in the process of removing the soles or their worn outsole.
The latching pliers are released with a hammer, which is integral with the halves of the pliers, and without a hammer. The working part of the pliers (sponge) and the hammer are heat treated to increase their hardness. The connection of the halves of the pincers with the axis must be tight, without distortions; the pliers must be easy to move and open under their own weight. The working surfaces of the sponges should fit tightly along their entire length. The outer surface of the jaws of the pliers is polished, the rest of the surfaces are oxidized.
Side nippers, needle-nose pliers and pliers - designed to remove metal fasteners from shoe parts or bite fasteners flush with the surface of parts, as well as to tear off worn parts. Pliers are used to remove metal fasteners from hard-to-reach parts of the shoe.
Side pliers and needle-nose pliers, pliers and pliers consist of two halves hinged together by means of an axis. The cutting edges of the needle-nose pliers and pliers, the jaws of the pliers, when compressed, should converge tightly along the entire length, without a gap. The joint in the hinge must be tight, without distortions, and have an easy move. The tools should open under their own weight. The material for their manufacture is steel. The working parts of the tools must be hardened.
Rice. 16. Nail remover
Nail removers (fig. 16) are designed to remove metal fasteners when removing soles or their worn outsole. The nailer consists of a steel curved rod 1 with a slot for gripping the nail head, a wooden handle 2 and a metal cap 3, which protects the handle from splitting.
The shoe hammer is used for driving in nails and pins, ironing and hammering shoes, has a firing pin with a convex working surface and an elongated, partially curved tail section. Hammer weight 350g.
A tiled hammer is used to knock out leather parts of the bottom - soles, heels - in order to seal them. Each end of the working part of the hammer has a striker. The weight of the hammer is 800 g. Rectangular steel slabs 180x130x30 mm are used in the set with this hammer when knocking out leather.
A hammer with an extended striker (Fig.17a) is used for nailing in heels, riveting whisks, heel bushings, etc. The shank of the hammer is bifurcated and highly magnetized, which allows you to pull the nail by the head and easily insert it into the desired place.
A hammer with a glued rubber plate (fig. 176) is used to hammer the top of the shoe.
Hammers are made of steel. The striker and the end of the shank are hardened. The striker must not chip, wrinkle, or break when struck on unhardened tool steel. The hammer is tightly pushed onto the handle with no backlash using a wedge.
Rice. 17. Hammers: a - with an elongated striker; b - with a rubber pad
The trimmer (Fig. 18a) is designed for polishing the edge of a leather or plastic leather outsole.It has a complex profile, in which a shelf, external and internal barbs, two grooves are distinguished.
When polishing the edge with a hot trimmer, not only the edge is smoothed, but veins are squeezed out on it; the outsole is crimped from the side of the running surface, and the welt from the top side.
For manual finishing, trimmers are produced with different shelf widths - from 3 to 10 mm, corresponding to different thicknesses of the processed soles. Each edge has two profiles with different shelf widths. Standard set - 7 double profiles with shelf widths 3-4, 4-5, 5-6, 6-7, 7-8, 8-9, 9-10mm.
Rice. 18. Urezniki: a - normal: b - calcaneal
For polishing the edge, processed by milling, there have been developed trimmers, the profile of which repeats the profile of the cutter, and the width of the shelf is 0.5 mm less than the shelf of the cutter. These cutters have the same numbers as their corresponding cutters.
Video (click to play).
Heel trimmer (Fig. 18b) with one beard is intended for polishing the heel of the plantar edge.
