In detail: do-it-yourself motherboard repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Due to the abundance of questions from enthusiasts who prefer to do everything with their own hands, regardless of profitability, we decided to help understand the actions called - motherboard repair.
The article written here does not cover all the secrets associated with repairing motherboards and the tips given will not solve the problem of a step-by-step guide for a beginner, experience is needed here.
But, nevertheless, they will show the way and give information for thought and some basic points, which in skillful hands will be a good help in business motherboard repair.
1. Before turning on the motherboard, you need to make it preliminary inspection... This is especially true in the area of CPU power supply, since if the CPU VRM fails, there is a risk of processor burnout.
If one of the transistors or microcircuit is damaged, then such a board cannot be turned on. If you suspect a malfunction of these elements, it is necessary to measure the resistance between the control legs of the transistors and the ground. These resistances for the upper transistors (their left legs) should be the same, just like all lower transistors (right legs), the resistances should be the same (hereinafter, the top will be called the side of the board closest to the external COM, USB, etc. etc .; bottom - IDE connectors side; right - CPU side). In case of VRM CPU malfunctions, the above resistances have obvious deviations and usually have very small values. It should be noted that failures of the processor power circuits on Intel motherboards are quite rare.
If the VRMs are working properly, you can install the CPU processor, POST-card and turn on the board. Testing must be done with a known working processor.
Video (click to play). |
2. Can be produced turning on the power supply... The power supply is only switched on when the CPU is installed. If the motherboard includes a power supply, then the following values are checked:
- voltages on quartz legs;
- resistance between the 3.3V power supply (orange wire and ground) when the power supply is disconnected from the motherboard and the CPU and RAM are removed.
It is necessary to check whether any elements are hot, especially pay attention to Super I / O (combines the interfaces of various low-frequency devices and includes the following functions: floppy controller, LPT, COM-port, MIDI or IRDA ports) and south bridge.
Maybe, motherboard turn on when the 12V power supply pin of the CPU is pulled out. Check whether the board will turn on forcibly by shorting PS_ON (green and black wires of the power supply unit), if it turns on again, check if the above elements are not getting hot.
3. If the motherboard is turned on does not output any codes to the POST card or is in RESET , you need to check the availability:
- CPU supply voltage (lower output of the coils);
- voltage at the bottom terminal of any of the resistor assemblies under the RAM connectors;
- voltage on the RESET button (one wire sits on the ground, the voltage on the second terminal is of interest);
- voltages on quartz legs;
- voltage on the 15th top right pin of any PCI slot;
Check if any elements are not hot, especially Super I / O, south bridge, LAN, BIOS.
And also on the off board:
- resistance between 3.3V STDBY (regulator substrate U9B3) and ground;
- resistance between the left leg of Q6E2 and the ground;
- resistance between the 3.3V power supply (orange wire and ground) with the power supply pulled out from the mother, the CPU and RAM removed.
4. Next, make board inspectionespecially in the area of the conductors connecting the northbridge to the CPU and the northbridge to the southbridge. Are the contacts in the PCI, DDR slots closed? Reinstall the CPU, check for starting with a strongly pressed CPU, pressed corners of the south bridge, strongly pressed BIOS, with any slight bends of the board.
5. Next, you need to check if does the motherboard see memory (in both channels). She must squeak without memory, and move on with memory. A memory failure is indicated by code D3, D4 (check both banks). In case of memory faults, you need to measure the voltage at the lower terminal of any of the 56-ohm resistor assemblies under the RAM connectors.
With the board off:
- measure the resistance between the top right contact of AGP (A1) and 12V power supply (yellow wire) - should be 0 ohm; if 12V does not reach pin A1, then with a video card inserted, the code is usually D3; it is also necessary to check the integrity of the AGP connector;
- measure the resistance between pins 91 and 92 (usually signed) of the DDR socket and ground;
- visually check the integrity of the conductors from the north bridge to the faulty memory bank, as well as the integrity of the resistor assemblies and the DDR connectors themselves.
6. If the motherboard does not see AGP video cards, you need to check the availability:
- voltage on contact A1 AGP (top right);
- voltage on the bottom contacts of the AGP connector;
- check the integrity of the AGP connector, the presence of all legs;
- check the integrity of the conductors from AGP to sowing. bridge.
Perhaps the video card will be seen if you slightly bend its upper or lower corner or reposition the card several times.
7. In all other casesif the motherboard executes any codes, but does not reach the operating system load, you must try to flash the BIOS. BIOS also needs to be flashed on working boards, which ensures guaranteed confidence in the future absence of glitches from the BIOS. Particularly clear signs of the need for BIOS firmware are codes 03 (which means that the old BIOS is stitched up, which does not understand the inserted CPU) and E9 (BIOS checksum error). The E9 code occurs especially often due to a missing or bad contact in the BIOS CONFIG jumper, while the FDD is accessed.
BIOS flashing is very simple. A file with the BIOS image of this board is written to a blank formatted floppy disk, the floppy disk is inserted into the FDD, the BIOS CONFIG jumper is removed, the board is turned on, the board performs all BIOS flashing actions itself and then turns off. This action is short-lived and is accompanied by sounds. The keyboard, video card is not used. Use a guaranteed working BIOS for the firmware.
- Power supplies for IBM PC-XT / AT system modules (djvu in rar3.30 = 900 kb):
The revised book by A.V. Golovkov and V.B. Lyubitsky describes in detail and with numerous examples the device and principles of operation of a standard push-pull half-bridge power supply of the AT standard. (Taken here.)
- PCI Local Bus Specification Revision 2.1 (pdf in zip = 2.4 mb)
- PCI Local Bus Specification Revision 2.2 (pdf in zip = 3.5 mb)
- PCI Local Bus Specification Revision 3.0 (pdf in zip = 2.8 mb)
- Accelerated Graphics Port Interface Specification Revision 2.0 (pdf in rar 3.0 = 2.9 mb)
- AGP V3.0 Interface Specification Revision: 1.0 (pdf in rar 3.0 = 580 kb)
- AGP Pro Specification Revision: 1.1a (pdf in rar 3.0 = 1.2 mb)
Everything is quite old here, there are already many fixes and additions on the wiki.
wiki.rom.by/index.php/Category: Tutorial_by_re .
In crooked hands and the rug is buggy.
Lena, you miss us. Uryayaya.
I'm glad to see you too.
I suggest an unconditional redirect from here to the wiki.
I collected all the dead and half-dead boards of the Pentium 2-3-4 class
and decided to consider their malfunctions, and it is possible to develop some general approach to their search.
It seems that those present here will help with considerations.
It appears here. first of all, we disconnect from the patient who has turned on (usually he is still dressed in a case and entangled with wires)
Be careful not to remove the cooler with a screwdriver.
All loops, pieces of iron, we take out the boards, etc.
leaving only video, processor and memory.
turn on ..
1) It works - look at the hardware, change cables to peripheral devices, deal with resource conflicts and BIOS settings
2) Didn't help. - We change the power supply unit, processor, video card for obviously working ones (optional, if available at hand) - this helps to find out and locate the troubles. Important note -
When changing a processor, it is often necessary to control its frequency, division ratio, and generation, set by jumpers,
Modern boards usually have a Jumper-Free design, that is
with autodetection of these parameters. Or they have settings in BIOS, and reset to automatic processor detection occurs by pressing any key when turning on the computer - such as Alt-F2 or “D” or “R” or “Del” ..
When installing another AGP video card, check that it is compatible with the motherboard, otherwise the mother can be completely burned. details and differences of AGP 1.0 2.0 and 3.0 standards read at IXBT.com
The memory should also be checked. But don't confuse modern Pentium-4 DDRs with PC-100 or PC-133 DIMMs for Pentium 2-3 class machines.
Reset BIOS settings using 3-pos. jumpers near the round battery .. Usually it is signed, but often it is the only one on the entire board. it is called Clear CMOS
has 1-2Normal 2-3 Clear positions.
We put 2-3 and turn it on for a short time.
Then we go back and try again.
We take out, gently bending the holder with a fingernail,
shiny little lithium battery. we measure her tension -
it should be at least 2.5-2.8 volts. If less -
it is better to change it, it costs 10-15 rubles. It happens when the mother stands for a long time, then the voltage on the battery drops, but the mother can start up with the battery installed, although the time and BIOS settings will fly off
to the factory.
3) It didn't help - We unscrew and take out the mother - often there is a problem in the screwing points - either the case bent the motherboard, and a microcrack opened up inside it. (and in motherboards the getinax is multilayer, and the number of layers with tracks can be from 4 to 12. Therefore, you need to solder and unsolder something from it with care.) We put the board on an insulating substrate on the edge of the case, and try again by weight -
The power supply is connected to the motherboard (in Class P-4 typewriters there can be two or even more loops to supply power to the motherboard - they must all be connected!)
The rest of the power supply cables are disconnected from all devices, even the flop.
Did not help.
So - from this moment we have the motherboard in our hands.
the most important point is inspection.
First of all, we look at the capacitors-barrels. They usually
swell and interfere with work. If the conduits are swollen, then often they are immediately visible, and moreover, they have to be changed in bulk - 10 pieces at a time. This comes from overclocking, increasing the supply voltage to the processor, chipset, etc., in BIOS, often from overheating, but the main reason is low-quality cheap Chinese conductors. =)
They exchange specialists. Do not take away from them their bread, but from themselves the last hope (I remind you that the motherboards are multilayered.)
then we look inside all the bus processor connectors - AGP, PCI, memory connector, etc. - often they get foreign objects, insects, broken legs, shavings, paper, etc. ...
Such connectors also need to be changed by a specialist. In principle, they change, I have performed such organ transplants more than once.
don't try this at home.
Next, we look through a magnifying glass carefully at the tracks on the back of the board and on the surface. Often the problem is buried in them. You can see the burned-out track, and with proper qualifications and ability to work with a soldering iron and small objects, you can even eliminate this defect yourself by soldering thin wires in the burned-out place
But the problem is usually deeper - for example, if the PCI bus power track burns out - then perhaps the reason is in one of the cards, for example, in the sound card. it is better to replace a suspicious card and inspect it carefully.
The same damage includes marks from a screwdriver and other tools with which you tried to remove the fan from the processor.
The screwdriver cuts the tracks near the processor, usually in the most inaccessible place, and you will not be able to do without removing the processor socket from the board. Run to the workshop =)
! Yes, I forgot - an important part of the information about board malfunctions can be learned from the signals it sends to the speaker
or by an error code that can be read from the built-in 2-segment LED indicator on some mothers.
There was one server that generally said it all to the speaker in English =)
These codes and sounds are called POST. i.e. Power-On Self-Test or Power-On Self-Test.
I would be glad if someone posts a link or a sign ..
for example - one long BIIIP - this is a memory malfunction, Two short one long - either Video, or the keyboard is not connected. Now these codes are not at hand - maybe I will find them later, I will add them.
Now to the masters -
the only thing left is to calm the client down, once again examine everything carefully, and check the voltages on the conductors with an oscilloscope - sometimes the dried-up is indistinguishable from the worker.
There should be no “noise”. Then check the power keys.
(I will ask a more knowledgeable person to write about the procedure for this test, the only thing is that they should not call by zero.)
Also check if the voltage supplied to the board is normal. - on the connector. It happens that the “Power Good” signal from the power supply sinks with a large current consumption when the motherboard is connected, below 4 volts and the board does not turn on in principle.
What else have we forgotten?
Yes, it is possible that the BIOS flew - it was beaten by a virus - well, here it is, reprogram the mikruhu - you need a programmer, find the firmware on the Internet, it is possible to unsolder the microcircuit with the BIOS, etc.
What other malfunctions were there?
Everything that the boards could. - I have now fixed questions about the switching circuit of quartz and clock generator microcircuits,
- some of the quartz that I measured with an oscilloscope had a generation on two legs - it was mainly working quartz for working mothers .. And some mothers that do not start - have generation on only 1 quartz leg. Here I sit and break my head - maybe there is such a switching circuit? Microcircuit for example Realtec 660-109 (from memory) ..
I haven't found it in the internet yet .. 🙁
I will be glad for the info.
Manufacturers believe that the main reason is the failure of the microcircuit under the discharge of static electricity, especially when connecting USB devices. The mass media write about this every day. You can restore the motherboard if the same south bridge burned out, even without re-soldering the microcircuit.
All this is due to the fact that most often the elements in the power stabilizer circuit fail, which supply voltage to the microcircuit, and the microcircuit itself in the motherboard remains intact. In the event of a breakdown, you need to pay attention to the integrated stabilizer microcircuit from the F1117 power supply, it is she who supplies power to the large microcircuit. When the computer turns on, the large microcircuit begins to overheat violently. It is necessary to replace the power regulator microcircuit with a new one, and the problem on the south bridge of the motherboard will be solved. You can restore the stabilizer yourself if you use a well-known soldering iron.
Replacing the transistor
The repair process can be carried out on the north bridge, but we would not advise doing it first, but for now figure it out on your own. If the computer does not start, and the microcircuits overheat (most often the masters, when they touch the motherboard and feel that it has become too hot, recognize it as inoperative), then the whole point is in the field-effect transistor, which is located near the north bridge and supplies its voltage exactly into this microcircuit. Almost all motherboards from Gigabyte can find this transistor under the brand name APM2054, sometimes it is more powerful and called the APM3054.
When I asked myself the question of repairing the "mother", I realized that there was nothing complicated here, and decided to collect my own statistics. I took 15 motherboards running on 845-865 chipsets. There were several motherboards from Asus and Gigabyte, and thanks to the complete replacement of various elements from the power supply of the microcircuit, it was possible to completely restore about 8 pieces, that is, more than half. But they all had the same reason - the malfunctioning of the south bridge. If your motherboard is overheating very much and the computer does not want to turn on, you should not throw it away. If you do not see serious damage to the microcircuit, for example: burned-out holes, cracks on the top cover, and so on, you can repair it yourself.
Battery Replacement
Motherboard battery problems are also very common, so they should be mentioned. If you start the computer and see the inscription: CMOS Battery Has Failed - the battery of your motherboard is out of order, for example, it is discharged. And the first thing to do is replace the battery.
If you are planning a repair through a service, then the cost can greatly upset you. Most often, the master takes extra money for working with his tools, the same soldering iron, as well as for replacing some small parts from the motherboard. You can save a lot of money because replacing the CMOS battery is incredibly easy. It is necessary to maintain power in the CMOS chip, which contains all the important settings in the bios. But usually, charging is enough for several years.
All new motherboards have been fitted with a CR-2032 battery for many years, especially Pentium. Simply put, this is a standard battery on most motherboards. You need to easily bend the metal tab that is holding the battery, and it will fly out of the motherboard due to the spring force. Then you can insert a new battery in the same place (purchase a battery in advance, they are in any computer store). When you have made the replacement, you need to go to the bios setup and return to normal all the settings that got lost during the procedure. Be careful when replacing the battery, for example, if the fasteners on the sides are plastic, do not press too hard when pulling out the battery, otherwise you will have new problems with the motherboard.
Replacing the cooler
If you encounter problems with the processor cooler, you will have to work hard, because this procedure is quite complicated. It happens that the motherboard manufacturer did not even think about replacing the cooler, and crammed a huge number of capacitors around the processor socket, which make it impossible to replace the cooler. But it’s even worse if your cooler has a very tight and pressed mechanism, which will need to be installed on a not very reliable Athlon with a screwdriver. You will have to try very hard so as not to damage anything.
You can seriously damage the motherboard if you accidentally loosen the mounts, or worse, knock them out completely. If the cooler is not securely attached, it will eventually loosen and fly out, and your processor will end.To replace a connector, you need a faulty motherboard, a screwdriver, and of course patience. Insert a screwdriver between the socket and the motherboard, then gently push down on it. The opening of the connector should occur, and then carry out the same procedure on all sides. But remember that you can accidentally hit something inside or even break an element of the motherboard, which will lead to a complete malfunction in its operation.
Opening the connector reveals a variety of different pin legs holding the connector. Next, put the new connector on your motherboard, put it on from the bottom - from the side in which all the pins are turned. At the end, you need to firmly press the connector so that it does not fly out, this is where the procedure ends, and your motherboard starts working properly again.
We wish your motherboard would never break! And by the way, after the repair you will have to reinstall Windows 8 or Windows 7.
It is possible to fix the "motherboard" with your own hands, but at the same time it is important to realize that almost all working digital devices, and even more so boards, are assembled and soldered by robots. Man cannot perform soldering work with such precision.
This is why the first experience of repairing a motherboard is likely to be unsuccessful. Therefore, before taking on the necessary payment, it is worth practicing on those that have already failed and will definitely not be useful.
1. Searching for an inoperative section of the chain and identifying the damaged element
2. Soldering the damaged element
3. Soldering a workable element
1.Tester (to find the problem)
2.donor board (or a separate, obviously working element)
3.soldering station and antistatic wrist strap
4. dielectric varnish for processing the soldering point.
Before you start looking for a faulty element of an electrical circuit, it is important to understand that:
- the circuit board is protected with a layer of dielectric varnish (or a similar composition), so the tester may not work, since the current simply does not pass;
- if you see an element that is clearly out of order (an exploded capacitor or a burnt out resistance element), this does not mean that it is he who is the cause of the failure of the entire board, perhaps it is just the consequences of a malfunction of another element.
Before working with the measuring device, carefully inspect the motherboard for elements that have obvious damage, which may include a burnt element, a broken element, a broken contact, a swollen element, acid drips, etc. Also, the problem area may be the element that heats up a lot when the board is turned on.
In addition, almost all modern motherboards have a self-diagnosis procedure, the result of which is issued through a sound signal. The table of signals and their meanings can be found on the website of the motherboard manufacturer.
If it was not possible to visually identify the faulty element, you will have to check the operability of each individual element. To reduce the test path, electrical circuits have control points in which control values are written (often they are printed on the board itself), this will allow you to identify a problem area in the least amount of operations.
It is necessary to check the parameters of the element in a sealed state - so the readings of the device will be accurate. Instead of a defective part, you must solder a working one. But working with an ordinary soldering iron will not work - there is a great risk of damaging not only the soldered element, but also the board itself.
Therefore, you will have to use a soldering station for soldering. It provides a predetermined temperature and allows you to melt the solder in a dedicated section of the circuit - this is required when replacing microcircuits that have a large number of contacts.
Defective elements must be replaced with equivalent ones.In this case, not only dimensions are taken as an indicator of equivalence, but also technological codes of manufacturers, with an exact match of all designations.
Video Motherboard Repair Do it yourself. Channel Honest Service
All equipment during operation is capable of failing. True, not all computer owners can understand the cause of a particular electronic failure. If the matter is in the motherboard, it is quite possible to repair it with your own hands. Moreover, even beginners can do it.As practice shows, only a small percentage of computing devices that arrive at service centers actually require a complex recovery process. As for the rest of the troubles, they are resolved quickly enough. At the same time, complex repair equipment and specialized computer knowledge are not used. The article will be useful for those who want to try to repair the motherboard with their own hands, saving money and time.
What is necessary?
To do a motherboard repair yourself, you need a certain amount of patience and a little basic knowledge. The main thing is not to be afraid. First, remember that your computer is connected to an electrical outlet, so you should follow all known safety precautions. You will need an ordinary and Phillips screwdriver as repair tools. You also need to use a multimeter. In the process of work, you should be extremely careful, be extremely careful.
As you can see, the rules are pretty simple. However, it is worth noting one more point, which must be paid attention to. Computing system components can be damaged as a result of static electricity. Thus, the body needs to "discharge". To do this, just touch the unpainted part of the battery or touch another grounded object. When performing repair work with a computer, it is advisable to periodically repeat the "unloading scenario".
Typical motherboard breakdowns Often failures are observed in system connectors:
If the user regularly connects a mobile device for data transfer or uses a different peripheral device, the port that is frequently used may quickly deteriorate. Power outages are also negatively impacted. This usually results in the first blown fuses and passive electronic components. For example, capacitors. When one of the coolers fails, when the device is turned on, as a rule, temperature protection is triggered. Thus, it is not possible to turn on the computer. Occasionally failures in the BIOS firmware are also possible. In this case, the computer is capable of responding to the power-on command, but this is its "live" state is limited.
What to do if one of the connectors on the board does not work?
First you need to make sure that the connected device is working properly. It is quite possible that, due to mechanical stress, the integrity of the soldering itself is violated. You should carefully walk with a soldering iron in the places where the socket parts are attached. It will take a lot of effort to replace the port. This is often associated with an increased risk of disabling the strapping elements that adjoin the part to be dismantled. If you are afraid to get down to business on your own or there is not even general knowledge on this issue, it is better to contact a specialist. There are situations when a certain connector is inactive in the BIOS program settings. In this case, you will need to go to the base system and check if this is so.
How to get rid of deadly messages?
When the computer begins to systematically "fall" into the unknown, and the screen displays only blue color with incomprehensible white text, you need to pay attention to the critical components of the system. It is likely that the central processor regularly overheats due to an insufficiently functioning cooling system. Sometimes the RAM does not match the configuration of the computer or is physically damaged. Also, the hard drive may have reached its working limit or requires software intervention.
All this can lead to negative consequences that will entail complex repairs to the motherboard. Every user should know that overheating is the main enemy of computing devices. Thus, the cooling system must always be in good working order, and the fans must have sufficient power to provide the optimal temperature regime necessary for the stable functioning of the system's hardware components.
BIOS hints
Don't panic if your computer makes strange noises during startup. This is a signal to the user from the BIOS about a certain malfunction. Taking into account the differences in modifications, as well as the typical dissociation of computing devices, each manufacturer uses an individual signal scheme. Thus, it is impossible to say unambiguously what a short "peak" or a long "pi-and-i" means. Decryption of audio messages is contained on the official website of the manufacturer of a particular device. The user must act according to the received data. Do not forget about changing the battery on the board. True, some cases require pre-flashing the BIOS chip, and this may require special equipment called a programmer.
What to do when the computer is completely unresponsive to turning on?
It is worth considering this example and figuring out how to repair the motherboard yourself if a similar situation occurs. It should be noted that with this behavior, which is described below, a multimeter is needed to diagnose the device. First, the computer turns on and the user checks that the LED on the motherboard is on. When it is active, it means there is a standby voltage on the main board.
If this indicator is not present, you will need to connect a power supply that is definitely working. If the result is zero, turn off all attachments. Thus, the cooler for cooling the central processor is dismantled, and also he himself, memory strips are removed from special slots, the hard disk, discrete video card, network adapters are turned off. It is necessary to examine the motherboard very carefully. It may be oxidized or physically damaged.
If swollen capacitors or other elements that are out of order are identified, they will need to be replaced. It is carried out in accordance with the marking of defective parts. As you can see, it is not difficult to repair motherboards yourself. This is a fairly easy and time-consuming process. However, there are also some difficulties.
A modern way to diagnose a malfunction
When the power supply is active, consistently and very carefully, you should touch the network, audio and chipset microcircuits with your finger. When it is felt that one of the parts is very overheated, it is necessary to seek the help of specialists in a service workshop. Some motherboards can run without a CPU installed. Thus, it is possible to measure the voltage on the power supply rail of the board to make sure that the converter is working properly. You will need to set the multimeter to the "20 volts" position.
Then the negative probe is inserted into the power supply terminal of the PSU, and the positive one alternately touches the lower leg of each choke. Next, it's worth looking at the displayed value. If it is within 0.8, everything is normal. Otherwise, you need to find the broken transistor from the power harness or replace the faulty voltage regulator. Of course, all this is done after a short contact with the positive probe on the start contact of the Power Bat.
The article covered the main points of how to repair motherboards. Given the wide variety of causes of problems that lead to all kinds of system "glitches", these methods of diagnosing and restoring the performance of the motherboard may be ineffective. However, the information provided will not be superfluous. Perhaps it will be useful in various situations associated with a computer breakdown.
This entry was posted in Repair on September 18, 2015 by katrinas11. Thank me, share the link with your friends on social networks:
The motherboard is the basis of most electronic devices, on which all the main components are installed, allowing all other nodes and modules to interact.
Desktop computers typically have a large number of expansion card slots, while laptops have more than 3/4 of the electronics on the motherboard.
Our service center Compray Express has been specializing in complex hardware repairs for all models of motherboards from Asus, Asrock, Gigabyte, MSI and other manufacturers for many years.
To carry out high-quality repair and maintenance of motherboards, we have all the necessary modern professional equipment and tools. Thanks to this, the repair will be carried out at the highest level with a guarantee of 6 months.
Complicated component repair of motherboards of personal computers is carried out only in the workshop of the service center. Experts will perform the following work for you:
- replacement of BGA components
- soldering / soldering chips
- repair and replacement of the north bridge
- repair or replacement of the south bridge
- replacement of all kinds of connectors VGA, HDMI, USB, etc.
- repair of power supply system, control, temperature control
- replacement and improvement of the cooling system
- replacement of integrated controllers
- replacement of faulty capacitors, converters
- replacement of the integrated processor
How to determine that the motherboard is faulty on the computer? Signs that indicate your home computer's motherboard may need repair:
- the computer does not turn on, does not start, does not boot
- the computer is not working and a certain beep is heard
- the computer often freezes or restarts spontaneously
- periodically there are critical errors and "blue screen of death"
- the network card does not work, the Internet is constantly disconnected
- graphics ports not working, expansion slots
- keyboard, mouse, or USB devices are not working as expected
- BIOS settings are not saved (time, date, order of boot devices)
- no hard drives or drive detected at boot
- unable to install drivers for integrated expansion cards such as sound or graphics
The symptoms listed above are often indicative of a malfunctioning motherboard in a PC. However, since the cause may be different (for example, a faulty power supply or the failure of another component), it is important to accurately diagnose the problem.
We have the knowledge, experience and the latest equipment that allow our technicians to quickly and accurately determine the malfunction of a desktop computer, the reasons for the failure of a particular unit, and promptly make repairs.
To replace the motherboard with a similar or more efficient one, it is not necessary to take a heavy PC system unit to the workshop of a service center.At home or at the customer's office, you can quickly replace a faulty motherboard with a new one. Also, the replacement of the motherboard occurs as part of the modernization of the computer. But in these cases, if the socket is different, then the processor and other components may need to be replaced.
After watching the relevant videos on repairing motherboards, many users often decide to make a simple repair or replace the motherboard on their own. Of course, if you have experience and knowledge of such procedures, it is quite possible to make such repairs on your own at home.
But users who decide to fix a computer on their own often ask us the following questions:
- how to start the computer after replacing the motherboard
- after replacing the motherboard, the computer slows down
- after replacing the motherboard, the computer does not turn on
- after replacing the motherboard, the computer does not start
- the computer does not turn on the light on the motherboard is off
- the indicator on the motherboard is on but the computer does not turn on
- after changing the battery on the motherboard, the computer does not boot
- pulled out the battery from the motherboard the computer does not start
- the computer does not boot past the motherboard screen
The reasons can be very different: incorrect connection of wires, RAM is not inserted until it clicks, the main power supply of the board is not connected, incorrect BIOS setup, etc.
If a motherboard requires complex hardware repair and diagnostics, it is advisable to use the services of specialists who can professionally help. Compray Express always provides a guarantee for repairs from 6 months, and for motherboards up to 3 years.
How much does it cost to repair or replace a computer motherboard? Since the exact cost depends on the specific model, the nature and degree of damage, here we can only indicate the average prices. The exact cost of the repair is determined based on the diagnostic results.
Video (click to play). |
Diagnostics during work is free!