Mazda 6 automatic transmission DIY repair

In detail: Mazda 6 automatic transmission do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The classic hydromechanical automatic machine is still in service and successfully competes with modern variators and robots. The convenience of an automatic transmission has long been appreciated by buyers. The evolution of automatic transmission is in a gradual increase in the number of steps and the introduction of electronic control.

This is confirmed by the creators of the 3rd generation Mazda 6, installing this type of transmission on the car. Automatic transmission Mazda 6 - the unit is quite reliable, but requires constant attention and periodic maintenance.

Fifteen years ago, the Mazda 6 automatic transmission had 4-5 gears and, despite the increased fuel consumption compared to the manual transmission, it was simple and reliable. Problems could arise only when the mileage was over 150,000 km, and even then if the owner forgot about replacing the transmission fluid. After all, oil or liquid for automatic transmissions (), not only serves to lubricate and cool parts, but also ensures the transmission of torque and the operation of the entire unit. Therefore, no matter how high-quality the liquid is, it has its own resource and needs to be replaced.

However, according to the Mazda 6 Operation Manual, the oil in the automatic transmission does not require replacement and is designed for the entire service life. For how long? Guarantee period? 200,000 kilometers?

In reality, on the Mazda 6, the automatic transmission fails much earlier without changing the fluid. Over time, the liquid loses its properties and does not fulfill its functions, so replacement is required. Experts explain this by the difficult Russian operating conditions, close to extreme, for which the Mazda machine gun is not designed. This means that it is necessary to adjust the maintenance schedule.

Video (click to play).

Automatic transmission Mazda 6 is a unit consisting of a torque converter, a planetary gear and a control system. The torque converter works like a clutch in the Mazda 6 mechanic, ensuring smooth operation of the automatic transmission.

The main signs of a machine malfunction are jerks and jerks when switching.

Jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear are typical for the 4-speed gearbox on vehicles up to 2007. The reason was the worn out rear cover of the unit. Urgent fluids and covers needed. Repair of a Mazda 6 automatic transmission is not a cheap operation, so it is important not to miss the moment. Otherwise, the friction clutches and even the box body may fail.

A five-speed automatic appeared on the Mazda 6 GH, on which jolts appeared when switching from III to IV. A possible cause was also a malfunction of the electronic control unit.

The design flaw of the Mazda 6 was also an automatic transmission radiator combined with a radiator for the cooling system. During the breakdown of the main radiator, coolant entered the automatic transmission fluid. The resulting emulsion is destructive for this node. Vibrations appear at a speed of about 60 km / h. Overhaul of the machine and oil change are inevitable.

The average price for an automatic transmission repair with a cover change, with consumables and an oil change is 30 thousand rubles.
The cost of repairing five-speed Mazda 6 gearboxes with crankcase restoration without removing the automatic transmission and changing the oil will be 38 thousand rubles. If the gears are gone and the unit must be installed and dismantled, the price reaches 45 thousand rubles.

If you operate a car with an emulsion in a transmission fluid for a long time, the pistons and friction discs are worn out, and the solenoids may need to be replaced. The cost of overhaul will be 50 thousand rubles.

The option of replacing the box with a contract one for the same 50 thousand is not the most reliable, because what will be inside, no one knows.

As doctors say: "Preventing a disease is easier than curing it!" With the maintenance of the automatic transmission Mazda 6, the question is controversial.

The position of the manufacturer is that the box cannot be prevented or repaired. There is no replacement of the transmission fluid in the regulations.

On the other hand, the liquid works in the most difficult conditions and has its own resource. Loss of ATF properties occurs after about 50-70 thousand km, so replacement is necessary.

It is also important to periodically monitor the level and condition of the oil in the automatic transmission Mazda 6. This can be done using a dipstick screwed to the body.

It is enough to apply a drop of liquid from the dipstick onto a white sheet. After that, make an analysis. The oil should be clear and pink in color. If the liquid is dark and contains particles, this is a sign of incorrect operation of the box. The oil needs to be changed. An oil change will be much cheaper than a probable repair.

Check the main radiator for coolant leaks at every service. Timely replacement of the radiator will prevent automatic transmission repairs.

Of course, this is a personal matter for each owner of a Mazda 6 automatic machine - to follow the manufacturer's recommendations or every 50-60 thousand. km to change the ATF and enjoy smooth transmission shifts.

Many problems with the Mazda 6 automatic transmission can be prevented by checking the oil level, its color, the presence of particles, the integrity of the unit cushions and the radiator. These simple measures and a discreet driving style will extend the life of the automatic transmission, save your nerves and money.

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The automobile concern Mazda, unlike its competitors, does not particularly like to experiment with transmissions. After unsuccessful attempts to curb rotary engines in the 80s and 90s, Mazda decided to make calm and successful cars. Typically, transmissions used on Mazda vehicles are time-tested, reliable designs. In the middle of the 2000s, Mazda nevertheless decided to modernize transmissions due to new requests and competition. But this time it was ingenious reworking and modernization of existing schemes that did not spoil anything and left their transmissions reliable, easy to repair and unpretentious in everyday driving and operation. A car service anywhere in the world can easily cope with the repair of Mazda boxes.

The second generation of the sixth model, the Mazda 6 GH, received the TF80SC automatic transmission. The family of these automatic machines is designed for engines from two to five liters, with a torque of up to 450 Nm. The latest modifications of this automatic transmission are an engineering masterpiece. Mazda engineers managed to fit the machine into the engine compartment with their own hands and ensured very fast and smooth switching. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission allows you to go fast, economically and at the same time it is very reliable and not subject to overheating, like modern counterparts and easily competes with preselective gearboxes.

The weak point of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is traditional for six-speed transmissions. The Mazda 6 GH torque converter still uses a friction lining that wears down and clogs the box with its decay products. Locking in this automatic transmission is made traditionally and is not used constantly, as in modern cars. The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission, like its counterparts, is subject to combustion of clutch packages. Usually starting in second gear or reverse. After the combustion of at least one, all other clutches of the Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission will be saturated with burnt oil and will soon fail.

Valve body mechatronic TF80SC

The valve body needs cleaning every 150,000-200,000 kilometers; this requires a visit to a car service. It will be problematic to dismantle the box with your own hands and flush it. In our winter, rubberized pistons become tanned after a few years and need to be replaced.The Mazda 6 GH automatic transmission is very sensitive to oil, it is better to pour only the original.

Mazda Demio was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E. This "workhorse" is still being produced. Major malfunctions are usually associated with dirty oil. The clutches of the overdrive package and reverse gear are the first to suffer on Mazda Demio. This is a classic Mazda Demio problem associated with the design features of the automatic transmission. This is due to the wear of the seat on the drum of the Mazda Demio automatic transmission and subsequent oil losses. The Mazda Demio computer overloads this node unnecessarily. Consumable tape for Mazda Demio is considered a consumable. The piston of the overdrive package often changes, especially if the box has overheated. The teflon rings of the rear cover and pump can be considered consumables and can be changed along with the oil and filter change. The electrics and the automatic transmission valve body are very reliable and rarely require repair.

Automatic transmission control unit 4f27e

Mazda Premasi was equipped with an automatic transmission of the 4EAT-G series. This is the first Mazda automatic transmission, on which electronic control began to be implemented. A significant share of requests for the repair of this automatic transmission ends with the replacement of the torque converter oil seals and various gaskets. The auto repair shop usually considers such work to be easy. From the clutches on Premasi, the packages of the third and fourth gears usually burn out. From the electronics, the line pressure and torque converter lock-up solenoids are the first to fail. For older cars, it is better to change the entire set of solenoids. When driving for a long time with a low oil level or with a dirty gearbox, bushings and oil seals quickly wear out. This usually manifests itself as increased vibration when driving a car. In the event of their appearance or strengthening, you should not wait for the denouement, but immediately go to the car service.

Mazda MPV was equipped with a G4A-EL gearbox. These automatic transmissions usually run for a long time at the MVP, but they arrive already in poor condition. Usually, the entire set of clutches is immediately changed on the MPV. Various gaskets that give oil leaks are aging, they should also be changed at the earliest opportunity. The gasket and pump seals are the weak point of the MPV. The electrical is very reliable and rarely fails, with the exception of solenoids, of course.

The Mazda Tribute was equipped with a CD4E box. This very simple and reliable four-speed transmission has become very popular. For three-liter engines, this transmission is rather weak, but on less powerful engines it drives for a very long time, it is simply repaired and drives the same amount. The best design solutions from it were implemented in 4F27E. The first thing that develops its resource in this automatic transmission is the solenoid block. It all starts with the abnormal and incomprehensible operation of the automatic transmission, which receives increased or decreased pressure. In second place is usually the speed sensor, over time it begins to "lie" and "confuse" the electronic control unit.

Mazda 3 models were equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission 4F27E, a relative of the CD4E. This is a unique box, it can be repaired without removing it from the car. Repair work can be carried out by any car service where there is a lift. Its problems are similar to the rest of the range of automatic transmissions produced for the automaker Mazda.4F27E automatic transmission for Mazda 3 modelsMazda Familia was equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-El. The same is installed on the Ford Focus.The clutches are reinforced here compared to Ford. The overdrive and reverse packages are close in resource to all other clutches and are no longer a weak point. But no one is immune from this if there are oil leaks. Aggressive driving results in increased lateral loads on the caliper, resulting in a skewed drum. Its shrinkage ring can jam and the drum will begin to slip, carving out a gap through which oil will ooze.After aging of the overheated rubber of the pistons, chips and dirt can enter them, which will also lead to burnout of the clutch packs.DO NOT SPEND MONEY ON REPAINING!
Now you yourself can remove any scratch from the body of your car in just 5 seconds.On Mazda cars, the metal of the back cover is softer than on Ford, so sometimes problems arise with it. The cover must be restored.Teflon O-rings are consumable, they are easily abraded during vehicle operation. This is a constructive feature and nothing can be done about it. However, the engineers have provided for the possibility of replacing the rings without removing the automatic transmission, for which a special thanks to them. The frayed rings will begin to leak oils and the box can be seriously damaged from this.Mazda Surname with four-speed automatic transmission FN4A-ElIt is also worth checking the pump seals and gaskets for leaks. If it comes to replacing them on the pump, it is better to change the bushings too.The electrical part of this automatic transmission is very reliable, but the valve body gaskets also require periodic replacement.Some transmissions from Mazda are so popular, widespread in the world and simple that they learn how to repair automatic transmissions from them. Any car service specializing in automatic transmission repair has seen Mazda boxes more than once. If you wish, you can try to learn how to repair automatic transmissions with your own hands. But it is better to leave this business to experienced professionals and stop by a car service.

Features services Mazda 6

On the Mazda 6 of the second generation, a five-band box has been introduced, which is also not without surprises, although it is more faithful than the previous one. In this box, failures most often occur when switching from 3rd to 4th gear, but the problem may not be in the mechanics, but in the electronic control unit. It is treated only by replacing the block. Hence, we can conclude that the most common troubles in the Mazda 6 automatic transmission are tire wear, breakdown of the planetary gear, failures in the control unit, breakdown of the torque converter, wear of the clutches, misses of the gear selector knob, breakage of the brake band. If you do not find complaints about refusals in the selector backlight. Not all of these problems can be prevented, but you need to be zealous, since the repair procedure is an expensive pleasure. Checking the degree of oil, its color on the dipstick, the presence of fine particles, the integrity of the pillows and the radiator are simple measures to protect against box breakage. But the main thing is a restrained driving style. This will lengthen the resource of the automatic transmission, save nerves and money.

Exchange of experience in the operation, maintenance and repair of a car ...

jura Fri, 16 Oct 2009, 20:46

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iJey Fri, 16 Oct 2009, 21:23

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jura Fri, 16 Oct 2009, 21:53

jura Clubman

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Wicked Fri, 16 Oct 2009, 22:04

An uncommunicative creature in a confined space with a countdown of people

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Fri, 16 Oct 2009, 22:08

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Vladimir199 Sat, 17 Oct 2009, 02:04

Do you want to wash your car? Ask me correctly how)))

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jura Sat, 17 Oct 2009, 22:50

The address:
Lublinskaya d1, "Auto Garant"
Tel. Masters via PM.

I drove 150 km after repairs - I'm not overjoyed. The gears switch smoothly, without jerks and kicks.
After 1000 km. report for me.

jura Clubman

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Sezar Sun, 18 Oct 2009, 20:03

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White nigga Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 02:39

yes, well, you are handsome))) money left and right))

And what fool advised you not to take on disassembly? Don't listen to idiots, honestly.

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Sezar Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 02:50

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Do you want to wash your car? Ask me correctly how)))

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jura Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 08:32

There is a saying "The miser pays twice"

I don’t want and I don’t have time. re-do the box.
The original price of the price of repair with spare parts was 60t.rub.
The guys had to order part of the box body, so the price increased to 90t.rub.
I saw the replacement work, the spare parts that were scrapped made an impression.

Everyone has their own opinion on the price. No objections.
I also feel sorry for the unplanned money spent, but my own life is more expensive.
Thanks to all!

jura Clubman

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Petrov_kamensk Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 09:17

normally so somewhere 93 pipes to give due to the fact that there was a factory defect, 160,000 mileage is far from prohibitive.

what does life have to do with it ?, comfort yes, I agree, but there are no life-threatening situations in a non-working box.

it's good when there is an opportunity to pay such an amount.
it is clear that all the advice is from lack of money, otherwise everything would have been done by the officials and included replacement with new blocks.

jura Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 12:50

what does life have to do with it ?, comfort yes, I agree, but there are no life-threatening situations in a non-working box.

A friend's box stopped working when overtaking on a federal highway - flew into a ditch into the oncoming lane in order to avoid a head-on collision!
My error flew at 130 km / h and the abrupt switch from 5 to 2nd speed was a complete surprise!
Well, there were no cars behind, I thought the engine would explode - the roar was decent!

jura Clubman

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Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 22:37

jura wrote: Address:
Lublinskaya d1, "Auto Garant"
Tel. Masters via PM.

I drove 150 km after repairs - I'm not overjoyed. The gears switch smoothly, without jerks and kicks.
After 1000 km. report for me.

Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 340 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Sun, 26 Jul 2009

Mon, 19 Oct 2009, 22:40

what does life have to do with it ?, comfort yes, I agree, but there is no danger to life in a non-working box.

I agree to all 100 [/ quote]

what is this principle in the machine, in case of a malfunction, to cut into the second one, why is it safer for mine not to go into the nitrate than to see the engine flying out through the hood

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ZiDen Tue, 20 Oct 2009, 10:32

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Chelyabinsk city
Car: mazda axela 2.0 Sport

I decided to write maAAA A little report on how I fix the automatic transmission malfunction on Mazda Axella 2.0 (well, the same three-ruble note)
primarily! What was the reason for this renovation? with the purchase of a car, I have already left for 3 years. I ran 52,000 km (full mileage), the first 2 years there were no problems, only the pleasure of driving a car, but around the beginning of this 2010 I began to notice that vibrations appeared at a speed of 60 to 100 km and knocks on bumps, as well as when braking when brake smoothly stopped releasing pressing the brake pedal also showed some vibrations. And all this was getting stronger every month!
The diagnostics of the walker and the engine showed nothing, everything seems to be normal! I was recommended to change the oil in the automatic transmission, which I did in connection with which, after a very small mileage of 4 t.km, the box can be said to stand up)))) in addition to vibration, there were jerks of jerks of kicking in the ass when starting off, and then at the end there were dips already at acceleration and failures when starting off! Well, I think that's it! it's time to tackle this problem!

I drove the car into the garage and began to carefully feel everything from the pit, pulling everything that twitches, twisting everything that was spinning and sticking out the connectors, tracing the wiring and the integrity of all parts and assemblies
But almost immediately I came across an awesome backlash of the internal grenade from the left drive, it seems to me that it was the cause of these vibrations and knocks! Because the suspension was, ideally, I replaced everything there this summer looking for the cause of the knocks, but she didn’t dare!

Unfortunately, I didn't film it by car, but at home, with the automatic transmission removed, it looks like this

By the way, by the way, by the way, it even dangled more strongly, probably because of a larger lever.

Well. I decided! If you change the Differential, then you need to shoot anyway! and troubleshoot all content! the removal began as usual, as many do, from the valve body! In order to facilitate the box well, and assess the degree of kill by oil and friction dust. Let me remind you that I changed the oil only 4 thousand ago, on the dipstick it is a little cloudy without the smell of burning!
Unscrewing the drain plug and letting it drain into the bottle, I was shocked! it is black in color with a lot of obscure particles like friction dust. Well, I think this is what I also got on the clutches, and this despite the fact that, in principle, I always drove generously on a typewriter!

I open the lid and see this there:

it can be seen that the magnet was cleaned by the dealer when it was replaced, there were no shavings, but the oil, however, was with incomprehensible inclusions)

And the consistency of the oil itself was not very similar to the recommended M5.

We look at the box, the valve body (the brains of the box))))

We turn off all the solenoids after taking a photo or writing down which wires go and unscrew all the existing bolts with a 10 key and carefully lower it!

Carefully. the main thing is not to drop the main valves and not confuse them and the springs in places! put it all on a clean surface

Looking further? what do we have here?

Nothing interesting! Except for the brake band, but more on that later!

We close the lid back, put the valve body in some kind of box and take it home!

On this day, I decided not to do anything else with the car, but to deal with the valve body!

We bring it home, put it on a prepared table covered with a rag and start disassembling it! For those who do it all for the first time, it is best to take a picture of each step, so as not to confuse what was where and how it stood!

We begin to unscrew the bolts, again with a 10 key

Before disassembling, be sure to take a photo of where which bolts come with what designations, they are A 30 mm B 40 mm 60 the longest without designation!

and with the help of cleaning products, I used the following:

we begin to pick out all the dirt from there! I had her there just the sea! disassembled boxes with much higher mileage and then the unit was cleaner.

we check them with an ohmmeter for the correct resistance

The same diagnostics can be done without climbing inside, well, if we are already inside, God himself ordered) if everything is OK with the resistances, then with a small voltage of 5-6 V we check how they click, everything is normal!

Then we clean all the plates with a carburetor cleaner, I cleaned everything thoroughly by pulling out all the valves and solenoids!

Some of them wedged a little after cleaning, everything became OK, the inner surface and the surface of the solenoids were ideally (apparently I did it in time) If you start it because of the dirt that got into the block, the valves begin to scratch inside the cage, wedge and jam! usually it is immediately felt by the lack of smoothness during switching and acceleration. if you measure up with this and drive like that, in the end you will find yourself replacing this block and it costs about 30 tr there are, of course, options for lapping with paste, but this helps for a very short time, unless the car is thrown off at the bazaar)

After cleaning and a full check and 3 more times rechecking, we begin to collect all this in the reverse order of parsing!

IMPORTANT! all twisting operations should only be carried out with a torque wrench!

tightening torque of the plates to each other and joining with the box 7.9 - 10.7 N.m

If we neglect this, then as a result of the constriction, the plates can lead and the valve will inevitably start to wedge, and from not too heavy, the bolts will begin to unscrew and let the pressure pass, and this, in turn, causes the rapid death of the machine! For greater reliability, I still use blue loctite)))

after collecting all this beauty

we put it in some kind of box so that dust and dirt do not fly there.

Well, for today, perhaps everything! tomorrow I will continue the report on the removal and troubleshooting of the machine itself!
Hands are tired of writing)))))

Post has been editedkroenen: 17 December 2010 - 09:11

Mazda 6. REMOVAL AND REFITTING TRANSMISSION

The main malfunctions, for the elimination of which it is necessary to remove the manual transmission from the car:

- increased (compared to the usual) noise;

- Difficult gear shifting;

- spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears;

- oil leakage through seals and gaskets.

In addition, the gearbox is removed to replace the clutch, flywheel and rear oil seal of the engine crankshaft.

An automatic transmission is removed for almost the same reasons as a manual transmission, except for the need to replace the clutch and flywheel, which in this case are absent. The difference lies in the design of the transmission control drive and the need to loosen the torque converter mounting nuts, as well as in the presence of hydraulic hoses in the automatic transmission that connect the box to the cooling radiator.

This book shows the removal of an automatic transmission as the most difficult and time consuming process.

The work on removing and installing the gearbox is very time consuming, therefore, be sure to first make sure that its malfunctions are not caused by other reasons (insufficient oil level, defects in the clutch release drive, loosening of the gearbox fastening, etc.).

The gearbox is quite heavy and has a shape that is not comfortable to hold, so we recommend removing it with an assistant.

You will need: socket wrenches "10", "14", hex key "8", mounting blade, pliers.

1. Place the vehicle on a lift or inspection ditch.

2. Remove the engine splash shield (see "Removing and installing the splash shield and engine crankcase protection", page 76).

9.... and remove the supply hose of the working fluid cooling system from the gearbox fitting.

30. Carefully turning the flywheel by the splines, unscrew the six fastening nuts

automatic transmission torque converter to the flywheel.

31. Place reliable supports under the engine and transmission.

32. Remove the three upper mounting bolts

34.. one front bolt.
35.. and three lower mounting bolts.

36. Slide the transmission back and carefully remove it from the vehicle.

When removing the manual transmission, do not rest the end of the input shaft against the diaphragm spring petals, so as not to deform them.
37. Install the transmission, as well as all removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order to removal.

Before installing the manual transmission, we recommend lubricating the input shaft splines with a thin layer of high-melting grease.

Check with a special mandrel how the clutch disc is centered (see "Removing and installing the clutch", page 140) ._

38. Fill the working fluid into the transmission (see "Replacing the working fluid in an automatic transmission", page 157).

In accordance with the instructions, the oil in the automatic transmission of a Mazda 6 car does not need to be changed at all. However, reality shows something completely different. The automatic transmission falls short of the stipulated service life, and breaks down much earlier. Experts believe this is due to the oil.

The liquid does not cope with the responsibilities assigned to it, as a result of which the entire box breaks down. It is because of this that many insist on a mandatory fluid change in an automatic transmission. They motivate the fact that this unit was designed for operation in conditions significantly different from ours, which many consider to be extreme. As a consequence, such an adaptation is necessary.

Reality has shown that the Mazda 6 box is much more difficult to cope with its own work in our realities. Therefore, there is a need to change the oil every 50-60 thousand km. In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the automatic transmission fluid from time to time. If it changes color or smell, then it must be replaced.

Since the manufacturer did not provide for a fluid replacement, then of course there are certain problems with this operation. As you know, there is a complete and partial replacement and which one to give preference is a purely individual matter.

In the event of a partial change, only a certain part of the used automatic transmission fluid changes. Instead, fresh is poured. Speaking about this, it can be argued that only some refreshing of the old liquid takes place. During a partial replacement, about four liters of fluid are consumed. And with a full about 16.

During a fluid change, not only the oil changes, but also the filter. A partial change, although cheaper, needs to be performed much more often than a full one. There is a lot of controversy about the effectiveness of these manipulations, and there are even those who insist that partial replacement is generally an empty exercise. Others claim that a complete oil change can damage the automatic transmission. And it is better to limit yourself to a partial one.

The video shows repair work with an automatic transmission.

By replacing the oil in the Mazda 6 automatic transmission yourself, you will significantly extend the life of your car while saving a lot of money on the services of auto repair shops. If the oil in our conditions changes every 50-60 thousand kilometers, then you need to check its level and condition at least twice as often.

To check the level, you need to do the following:

Warm up the box thoroughly, having driven ten kilometers by car.
The motor does not need to be turned off and it must function during the measurement.
Park the vehicle on a level surface.
Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a rag.
In turn, click through all the modes, starting from PARKING and back, lingering in each mode for 1-2 seconds.
Reinsert the dipstick.
Examine the dipstick. Note that it has two levels, MIN and MAX for cold and MIN and MAX for hot.Since we measured on hot, then the level of the liquid should be between the MIN and MAX marks on hot.

For a Mazda 6 automatic transmission, overflow or underfilling is quite fundamental, while overflow is much worse than underfilling. Bubbles on the dipstick are considered a negative sign.

You can check the condition of the oil in the automatic transmission in a simple way. To do this, just drip a little liquid from the dipstick onto a white sheet. Examine the drop carefully. If it is transparent and slightly reddish, then everything is fine. Otherwise, if the liquid is dark in color and there are particles in it, this is a sign of a box malfunction.

fresh oil;
a set of keys;
funnel;
rags;
capacity;
knife;
sealant;
new filter;
new gasket.

Original grease for automatic transmission

We put our car on a pit or overpass.
We are waiting for thirty minutes for it to cool down.
We dismantle the pallet, which is attached to the Mazda 6 with twenty bolts.
Now you need to act carefully. The pallet is held on to the sealant and to remove it you need to pick it up with a knife.
When you remove the sump, drain the waste fluid.
Next, inspect the magnet. If there are shavings on it, then it needs to be cleaned.
There is a filter between the parts of the box and the pallet; it must be removed and replaced with a similar new one. Never leave the old one.
Replace the gasket and reinstall the pallet.
Tighten all bolts.
Next, in the place where the probe is inserted, insert the funnel.
Fill in oil. There is no need to rush and check the level more often with a dipstick. In case of overflow, it will have to be sucked off, and this will require additional equipment.
After you fill in 3.5-4 liters. drive the car for a couple of kilometers.
Drive onto a level surface and measure the oil level again.
If necessary, add fluid to the MAX mark.

At this point, the work on changing the oil in the automatic transmission can be considered complete. Do not forget that the next replacement will be necessary in 50-60 thousand kilometers.

Video (click to play).

This video shows how to properly change the lubricant of the engine and automatic transmission on a Mazda 6 car.