Mazda 626 muffler DIY repair

In detail: Mazda 626 muffler repair by hand from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Many motorists are faced with the need to repair the exhaust system of the car and, in particular, the muffler. It is located at the bottom, so there is always a risk of damaging it while driving. Complete replacement is not always necessary. And therefore, it is better to know how to repair a muffler yourself, as this will save you a lot of money and time.

The catalyst for Mazda 626 cars. The catalyst for Mazda 626 cars replacement and repair Let's first figure out what is the essence of the catalyst. The catalyst is a piece of the exhaust system that has many honeycomb tubes built into it, through which gases pass. Honeycombs are needed in order to increase the contact area of ​​the exhaust gases with a surface on which a thin layer of platinum-iridium alloy is applied. Unburned residues (CO, HC, NO), touching the surface of the catalytic layer, are oxidized to the end by oxygen, which is also present in the exhaust gases. As a result of the reaction, heat is released, which heats up the catalyst, thereby activating the oxidation reaction. In addition to heat, an additional volume of gas is formed in the catalyst, firstly, because the hydrocarbons have burned out (just like in the engine cylinder), and secondly, because the temperature of the gases has increased. This is the back pressure that a working catalyst gives. However, its magnitude is not so great. The labyrinths of the resonator and the muffler make a significant contribution. In order to reduce the resistance to the flow of gases from the side of the catalyst, the area of ​​all openings of the honeycomb is approximately one and a half times larger than that of the supply or discharge pipes.

Video (click to play).

do-it-yourself muffler repair without welding

The compensator (corrugation) of the exhaust system is present in most cars, as a rule, it is located on the intake pipe. The exhaust gas temperature can reach several thousand degrees, and therefore the exhaust system compensator burns out. Happy viewing! This video shows one of the ways to repair the muffler jacket. Elimination of damage to the outer shell of the muffler caused by corrosion. The work is quite simple and does not require any special skills. Materials required: galvanized sheet steel, muffler sealant (muffler cement), heat-resistant paint, m6 bolts and nuts. Tools: scissors for metal, hammer, chisel, cord brush, pliers or pliers, tape measure, hacksaw for metal, drill, drill 6mm.

Replacing the front shock absorber in the Mazda 323F

This is a video about the design features of mufflers and their malfunctions.

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Group: MAZDAvod
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Auto: mazda 626 GE
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Auto: Mazda 626 GE
Name: Yuri

I will not overload, in general, today I myself have completely restored the exhaust system (I did not buy a muffler, I still have it normal). I threw out the catalyst and resonator (although these are conventional names, in fact, there were far from such xD units on the mask) In the middle, everything was stupidly empty, just welded pipes. And at the joints of the mounts from the eight, but they are 44 mm in diameter, and on the mask, 50-54 mm (this suggests that it is harder for her to release exhaust on the eight mounts), in general, it was decided to completely replace everything nafig!
I spent 500 UAH on material, bought pipes, joints, and a resonator for 220 UAH, it says turbotwin (all the rest of the pipes and joints are standing). I haven’t paid the welder for the work yet, they didn’t have time to do it today, tomorrow I’ll go to pick it up and see how it will work now.

I read a lot about stronger, I wanted to put it on, but it only changes the sound, but there is not much sense! If everything is vikinut and only the stronger is left - then it is not very good, then you need to put the stronger + the resonator, so that it was normal, but did not want to throw out the grandmother) In general, for an amateur. Regarding the choice of the resonator, they advised not to be more expensive than that, there is a little trick that the grandfathers still used, you fill in the workings a little, and it serves for many, many years! If you are interested, I can find out the exact number, the person himself has been doing this since the 90s, then he says - once he did it and forgot. But, in general, I'll check it out, we'll see how it will be!

Mazda 626 GE is popular in Russia no less than the domestic "shahi"
This model first appeared on the market back in 1982. Mazda 626 was made in several guises, but the generation produced from 1992 to 1997 became the most massive in the domestic secondary car market. Typically, these cars are designated by the letters GE, "sewn" in the fourth and fifth places in the VIN-number.

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Most often, the Mazda GE has a hatchback body, but two more cars were made on the basis of the Mazda 626. This is the MX-6 two-door coupe, as well as the Xedos 6 (in Japan, the Eunos 500). The latter is a luxury version of the Mazda 626 with its original body and very luxurious interior trim. So if you want to have a comfortable car with a maximum of "bells and whistles", you should turn your gaze to the Xedos 6, and not look for expensive configurations of the 626th model. Moreover, outwardly, the Mazda Xedos 6 seems to many to be much prettier than the "simple" 626th. True, one important fact should be noted here - in the event of an accident, it is unrealistic to find non-original or used body parts for Xedos 6, since this car is rare in Russia. And the cost of new elements is considerable.

Russian salt and weather conditions have still not been able to make the metal of the Mazda 626 become covered with a bashful rusty coating - even cars in the first years of production have no problems with corrosion (only in the case of poor-quality repairs). Alas, this is not the case with the exhaust system. The rear part of the 626 muffler rarely lives in Russia for more than three years (often the "bank" is damaged due to the low ground clearance of the car). It is too ruinous to buy the original one, so the owners are forced to install non-original ones (very good mufflers for the Mazda 626 are made by Walker) or look for a replacement from other cars. Here we can note the following point. The engines and chassis of the Mazda 626 GE were used by Kia to create the Clarus. This is very often used by the owners of Mazda cars with its expensive spare parts, preferring to install parts from the Korean model on the car. The benefits are often significant. For example, the front suspension arm for some Mazda 626 fits perfectly from the Clarus. And the price differs very significantly - for a Japanese product they ask for $ 175-220, and for a Korean one - only $ 50-70. The quality of the levers (as well as other elements) is almost identical.

No more unpleasant features were found in the Mazda 626 engines. Naturally, you need to remember that every 60-100 thousand km you need to change the timing belt with rollers (about $ 150 with work). Moreover, performing this operation, it is better to ask the master to immediately install a new camshaft oil seal (it costs a penny). You also need to remember that in cars with a V6 engine, the engine cushion wears out a little more often due to the greater weight of the power unit. But there is nothing wrong with that - for $ 50 you can find a nice non-original part. It is also not criminal that the oil pressure sensor often breaks down on some cars. Usually, to solve this problem, it is enough to buy a reliable original spare part ($ 12).

When operating a Mazda 626 (especially with a V6 engine, although this applies to 4-cylinder engines to the same extent), you need to monitor the temperature of the coolant.They say that it is enough to overheat the engine just once (in the summer in the "traffic jam" this can easily be overlooked, and besides, the contacts of the fan sensor are periodically oxidized on the Mazda 626), as the "head" begins to lead. Repairs with the purchase of original parts will be ruinous for the family budget, although the purchase of used parts will not please either. That is why it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the pipes and be sure to change the coolant every two years. If you follow all the simple rules of operation, the engine will serve for a very long time. So cars with 4- and 6-cylinder engines can be safely recommended for purchase.

But what should not be taken is the Mazda 626 with a diesel unit. It is only one with a volume of 2.0 liters and a capacity of 75 hp. Moreover, experts recommend abandoning a diesel engine not because of its low power, but because of the complexity of the design, capriciousness and extremely expensive repairs. The fact is that this engine is equipped not with a traditional turbocharging, but with the so-called Comprex wave pressure exchanger. In short, the principle of its operation is that the exhaust gases by means of a rotating rotor compact the charge of air entering the cylinders. That is, it is not the turbine that pumps air into the engine, but these very exhaust gases. The idea is very interesting, but in fact it turned out that with a mileage of 150-200 thousand km, the exchanger can break down, clog up, etc. Only Mazda branded centers can repair it. Moreover, the restored units do not work for too long. And the price of the new exchanger is impressive - over $ 1500. So in the end, even Mazda itself decided in the late 90s to abandon the Comprex system.

The gearbox on the Mazda 626 is usually a 5-speed manual. It is very reliable - in most cases it is enough just to change the oil after 60-70 thousand km. The service life of the clutch is rather difficult to predict - when driving through Moscow "traffic jams", and especially if there is a V6 engine under the hood, it may fail after 50-70 thousand km, but more or less thrifty owners have a clutch life of about 80- 100 thousand km (a new one costs $ 250-300 together with work).

Sometimes you can find cars with "automatic". This transmission, alas, is not the most modern in design (jerks are felt during switching), but there are no questions about its reliability either. Only on cars with high mileage may it be necessary to replace the clutches ($ 400-800). By the way, when operating cars with automatic transmissions, you need to ensure that the engine mounts function as expected (this applies mainly to V6 engines). The fact is that with poor supports, not only the power unit, but also the gearbox begins to "walk", which leads to wear of the axle shaft oil seals. And this usually ends with oil leaks from the transmission (although this happens very rarely). By the way, the Japanese market sold Mazda 626 with an all-wheel drive system, as well as center and rear differentials! However, there are very few such machines in the European part of Russia.

The Mazda 626 suspension is completely independent. But you don't need to be afraid of this. Despite the complexity of the design, the chassis rarely breaks down and does not require too much money for repairs. For example, if the front ball joint is worn out (this happens when the mileage is over 100 thousand km), you will have to buy a new lever. The price of the brand is $ 175-220. But you shouldn't be afraid. There are several ways to save money. First, you can find non-original parts on sale ($ 60-120). Secondly, as mentioned at the very beginning, the levers from the Kia Clarus are perfect for the Mazda 626 with a 2-liter engine (and there are most of these cars on the market). Their price is $ 50-70. Well, if the parts from the Korean car do not fit, some services offer to repress the ball (you can buy it for about $ 18). It can be noted here that the suspension of the Mazda 626 with a V6 engine is seriously different from the quieter cars with 4-cylinder units. As a result, many spare parts for powerful cars are more expensive, while there are very few non-original parts.

Plus Mazda 626 can be written down and the fact that the silent blocks in the front suspension are changed separately from the lever: this operation costing $ 60-120 has to be done about every two years. But behind the silent blocks are only assembled with levers - three levers, each of which has two silent blocks. It is almost never necessary to change everything at once, and new levers are not very expensive - $ 30-60 apiece (replacement work will cost $ 8-12). In addition, the rear levers are capable of serving faithfully on the order of 100-150 thousand km. As a result, it turns out that the most frequently replaced parts in the chassis are stabilizer struts, which serve 30-40 thousand km. A new front stabilizer bar costs about $ 13-25, and the rear one costs $ 15-35. At the same time, some repairmen advise putting racks on the Mazda 626 GE from the previous generation of the car with the GD index. They are both cheaper and last longer.

The first Mazda 626 hit the market in 1983 (GC designation). They were produced in hatchback, sedan and even coupe bodies. The car was equipped with various engines, including a 2.0 liter diesel. It should be noted that the Mazda 626 is not known by this name in all markets. In some countries, the car was sold as Mazda Cosmo, Capella, MS-6, MS-8, Anfini and even Ford Telstar!

In 1987, the new Mazda 626 with a GD body was released. Such cars were produced as a sedan, hatchback, coupe and station wagon. Under the hood of the Mazda 626 GD, you can find both carburetor and injection engines with a volume of 1.6 to 2.2 liters. Moreover, the most powerful unit was a 2.0-liter unit, producing 148 hp. It should be noted that Mazda 626 GD are still quite common in our secondary market, and these cars are distinguished by good reliability and ease of maintenance.

The next generation Mazda 626 was shown in 1992 (GE). This car was produced in sedan and hatchback bodies. But they did not make a station wagon based on 626 GE - in the period from 1988 to 1994, there was a station wagon based on 626 GD on the market (such cars are called GV). Various engines were installed under the hood of the Mazda 626 GE, and not only 4-cylinder with a volume of 1.8 and 2.0 liters, but also 6-cylinder ones. The V6 engine was supplied to the European market only with a volume of 2.5 liters (163 or 165 hp), but in Japan cars with V6 volumes of 1.8 and 2.0 liters were sold. By the way, in the Land of the Rising Sun it was also possible to purchase an all-wheel drive Mazda 626. Moreover, in small quantities, cars were produced not only with an all-wheel drive system, but also with all four steerable wheels! Diesel was offered only one, with a volume of 2.0 liters and 75 hp. (it appeared in 1993). Moreover, a rather original design - instead of a standard turbocharging, a Comprex wave pressure exchanger was used there, which no car company had dared to use before Mazda. And the Japanese themselves later abandoned such a system - the diesel engine turned out to be complicated and expensive to operate.

In 1997, the next generation Mazda 626 was shown with the GF index (sedan, hatchback and station wagon). The car had under the hood engines of 1.8 liters (90 or 101 hp), 2.0 liters (116 or 136 hp), as well as a 2.5-liter V6 with a capacity of 200 hp. In addition, there was also a diesel version with a 2-liter engine (101 hp).

The Mazda 626 GF was the last of the 626 series and was replaced in 2002 by the all-new Mazda6, or Atenza, which is still in production today. Mazda6 / Atenza is equipped with gasoline engines of 1.8 liters (120 hp), 2.0 liters (141 or 145 hp) and 2.3 liters. The last motor, depending on the sales market and modification, produces 152, 162, 166, 175 or 178 hp. In addition, there is a 3.0 L V6 engine (222 hp). There is only one diesel engine - 2.0 liters (121 or 136 hp).

Today, the Mazda 626 in the back of GE is found in our aftermarket quite often. This car is characterized by reliability, traditional for the "Japanese", although, if necessary, Mazda repairs will cost a pretty penny. In this regard, many craftsmen advise buying cars equipped with a 2-liter 4-cylinder engine, and not a V6, which is more expensive to maintain. Firstly, there are more of them on the market, and secondly, some suspension parts for such cars are suitable from Kia Clarus, and spare parts for "Koreans" are much cheaper.

Since 1995, we have been repairing and replacing a muffler, resonator, catalysts, corrugations, intake pipes, intake and exhaust manifolds, installing an additional controller (oxygen sensor emulator, lambda probe snag) on ​​the Mazda 626. All types of work are guaranteed.

Catalyst

Typical Catalyst Malfunction Symptoms:

  • decrease in engine power (deterioration of acceleration dynamics, decrease in maximum speed), coupled with increased fuel consumption
  • Difficulty starting the internal combustion engine (it began to start longer)
  • pungent poisonous odor from the exhaust system
  • extraneous noises are heard from the catalyst (ringing, rattling)
  • shows diagnostics with corresponding errors indicating ineffective operation

If there is any suspicion of improper work - come and carry out a diagnosis. As necessary, we will replace the catalyst with a Mazda 626 flame arrester of any model generation.

2nd lambda probe controller (blende)

The 2nd lambda probe after the catalyst, on cars from 1998, means that your car complies with the Euro3 environmental program and above and makes it impossible to drive without a catalyst or replacing it with a flame arrester. It requires reprogramming to Euro2 or the installation of a controller of our own production (and therefore with intelligible technical support in which case) and a sensor correcting the information. In this case, the ECU will be sure that there is a catalyst that performs all its functions properly.

Deception of a lambda probe + a flame arrester, which works as quietly as a standard one, is by far the best solution to this problem for your car.

Flame arrester

There is a misconception that after replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester, the car will run louder, no matter what flame arrester is installed. Flame arresters of the latest generation work as quietly as catalysts, and sometimes even quieter if two or three reflective, cooling and noise-absorbing chambers are made inside, and 2-3 types of packing are used to extinguish noise, temperature and pressure. The highest quality stuffing is made of stainless wire and Kevlar: it is not afraid of high temperatures and due to its strength it is not blown out. It absorbs noise three times better than basalt (the most common). Products with such a packing cool exhaust gases better than their counterparts, and serve 10 times longer.

All of the above operations are performed for all generations of the model and versions intended for any country:

V: 1.9, 2.0, 2.5

IV:1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5

III: 1.8, 2.0, 2.2

and subsequent (unless an exception is specified).

1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 - year of birth

The duplicates with which the same rare models (and even with similar damages) visit us - sometimes they are simply supernatural! Then two Dodge-calibers will arrive as a couple during the winter. Then two mustangs will come to strip the body. Well, here's how two completely unfamiliar equally rotten 626 Mazda could get on the map of the capital with a finger in the same car service and even in one month?

We haven’t had such a thing for a hundred years. We are not familiar with the 626s club yet. The action “two rotten muzzles for the price of one” was not announced on the first channel!
Well, we will cut the Japanese once again!

The car definitely rots from the head, like the fish, how else can one explain the fact that two dinosaurs of the Japanese automobile industry survived two sterns in pretty good condition?

Look at how strong butts are:

And what crumpled, well-worn "faces": First - this is such a "predator" in the green thickets:

The assortment of the catalog contains accurate data for the selection of spare parts for various car groups, including Muffler Mazda 626 The site can be purchased from stock and on order details:

  • for scheduled technical inspection
  • for body refurbishment
  • unscheduled suspension and engine repairs

With over 7 years of experience in the industry, we offer the same excellent service online as you would if you were on a personal visit to a showroom or car service center. Unlike other spare parts stores, we make service as convenient as possible. You can feel free to call us during normal business hours if you have any questions about spare parts, their selection and applicability.

Federal online store

Presence in 6 megacities;

Assortment of parts more 16 million;

Availability and prices from 516 suppliers;

Over 30000 visitors per day;

Online expert consultations;

Cash and non-cash payments;

Work with all regions of the Russian Federation;

Shipment from 2 before 24 hours;

The thermostat regulates the temperature of the coolant in the engine. With its help, the engine warm-up time is reduced and the most optimal thermal regime is maintained.

An injector is a system for injecting the fuel mixture into the engine, which is under pressure up to 5 atm. enters the engine using an electric pump. Fuel is supplied to the injectors, its amount is regulated by the processor depending on the signals of the sensors on the engine.

You can buy spare parts for your car in our online store

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Like any car with an injection engine, the Mazda-626 has a thermostat to regulate the flow of coolant. The higher the engine temperature, the more the thermostat is open and the more coolant flows into the engine. However, like any part, it can fail.

The thermostat can jam in the closed or open position. If it remains permanently closed, the coolant mixture does not flow into the engine, and it overheats even in frosty conditions. A non-closing valve, on the other hand, significantly increases the warm-up time of the engine to operating condition. A faulty thermostat can usually not be repaired and is replaced with a new one, like other spare parts for the Mazda 626 that must be replaced.

It is very easy to check the health of the thermostat: it is removed from the car and placed in a vessel with almost boiling water. If the thermostat valve opens, then it is working. If it remains open or partially opens, it must be replaced.

In any injection car, including the Mazda-626, it is required to clean the injector nozzles from the formed crust, which is very stable and it is simply unrealistic to remove it on your own. The best solution is to use special fuel additives. The additive is simply poured into the gas tank and cleans the entire vehicle system without requiring any additional action.

If you use the additive every 5,000 km, then cleaning the injector will not be necessary. Additives are always available and inexpensive, so it is best to apply them right away in a new engine. However, for an already contaminated engine, additives are not only useless, but also dangerous: they do not eliminate the problem, but exacerbate it by the fact that contaminants enter pipelines, stagnant zones, injector filters and settle there.

High-quality flushing of the contaminated fuel system must be carried out at the service station, using special equipment and competent craftsmen. As a compromise option, you can flush at home, for which you will need:

  • good flushing fluid;
  • a set of new candles;
  • 2 liters of regular fuel;
  • syringe.

Flushing should be done together, using a mixture of fuel and flushing fluid from a syringe. This is a rather time-consuming and messy procedure that requires patience and certain skills. If you do not feel confident in your abilities, it is still better to turn to specialists.

Exhaust systems operate under conditions of high enough load, being exposed to harmful influences from the outside and from the inside. That is why, after years, the exhaust system often requires repair, replacement of individual parts or the whole. It must be remembered that a small malfunction that is not eliminated can lead to quite serious problems.

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

You can always entrust the issues of repair and replacement of exhaust systems to "Muffler-service". We have in stock components for a wide variety of brands (and models) of machines, a staff of experienced craftsmen and modern equipment. We ourselves are ready to manufacture a new and high-quality exhaust system for your car, so that you enjoy an easy ride and a quiet ride or a beautiful sound if you choose a direct-flow exhaust system.

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Trusting the reputation of "Muffler Service", our new client brought his Mazda 626.

Mazda 626 was first introduced in 1979, the car first conquered the American market, then moved to us.

The Mazda owner initially filed a complaint about the muffler's roar. Made the Mazda diagnostics.The owner bought the car a long time ago - in 1997, since that time he has been actively but carefully exploiting it. In general, Mazda's condition, given its "age", turned out to be excellent. The same cannot be said about the exhaust system ... It was rotten and needed to be replaced. The exhaust system on the Mazda 626 is a whole complex of important components, including the manifold, catalyst, connecting pipes and, of course, the muffler itself. Together with the client, we decided to make a new stainless steel exhaust system for his Mazda, so that in the future it would not waste money and precious time on its repairs.

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

The guys spent almost a whole day on work on the Mazda 626, but the result was worth it - with a new, high-quality and reliable exhaust system, Mazda will not require repair of the exhaust system for many years, the owner was happy with the long-awaited silence and acoustic comfort while driving.

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

For solving problems on the graduation system, please contact us, we guarantee the result.

n1ke Posted on Feb 14, 2012 8:53 am Post # 16382

After the collective farm tuning, the gaskets between the exhaust manifold and the intake pipe using a thin paranite and sealant (I cut out the 2nd gaskets from thin paranite and put the standard metal gasket on top and bottom on the sealant - for one thing I found out that one hairpin was replaced with a bolt - I fixed it) success was - but not for a long time (: because it was pulling into the car as it was pulling (and at first it seemed to pull less). But after tuning the gasket, the car is running and turning the engine up to 1500 rpm and holding the pedal - the check does not light up - but if you go in one gear and keep 3000 (: the check lights up. I think this is also due to air leaking into the zadrodelnoe space. I also drew attention to the fact that after the end of the frost - it's now -10 on the street - the consumption significantly decreased - this time I had enough 20 liters almost 100 km ^ _ ^ The question is actually about the exhaust - there are 3 options for how to do it, but which one to accept (which option is the most correct) I do not have enough knowledge. we answered for earlier thanks.

n1ke Posted on Feb 14, 2012 8:55 am Post # 16383

option 2. Sori for the 2nd message .. hands do not obey Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

n1ke Posted on Feb 14, 2012 10:57 am Post # 16387

With the gasket - I agree - $ 7 is not money (I have already arrived) - I just think this will not solve the problem. there, most likely, the plane between the parts to be joined has gone somewhere. about the showdown - There are 10 such Mazdas in Krasnoyarsk - maybe a little more, and those are in a sad state. - disassembly is shorter than an option (everything is justified by the geographical location of the region - we have more purebred right-handed YAPOSHKI on the roads.and such as m 626 or xedos 9 is something from the field of science fiction (I have no nameplates on my car - everyone asks why car - since it was even the cops stopped because they argued with each other 626 or not (((:) (well, if only from something to pick up (that's why such troubles). And at the expense of stainless steel exhaust without a flame suppressor there will be comments? (( (:

Yuri Posted on Feb 14, 2012 3:41 pm Post # 16401

It seems to me that it is necessary to globally deal with the fuel air system in the first place. The exhaust is of course an important part, but it will not give such a huge excessive consumption of fuel.
Read errors and to the studio for discussion

n1ke Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:39 am Post # 16430

(: not not not - you need to start with the engine - disassemble - from defect - replace all rubber and other sealing elements - solve all technical issues concerning the CPG and cylinder head - then assemble - and after that start digging into the air-fuel system. It's just now there is an opportunity to deal with the exhaust - that's why I want to do it. It's just that the whole question is in technical terms - is a special pipe used for the exhaust system? critical heating is not safe) and whether the remains of the exhaust system will burn out - the muffler itself and the remnants of old pipes.In short, a small bunch of questions

Yuri Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:03 am Post # 16431

Most likely, you need either the correct resonator acting as a flame arrester, or a catalyst.Omitting the role of a roaring car, the Japanese for some reason put an intermediate resonator or catalyst (by year of manufacture). I adhere to this position: once they have put it, then it is necessary by definition and there is no need to prove that either. What happens if this device is not installed? This question is not for me. During repairs, I try to fully equip the car and for some reason all power systems return to normal, i.e. I personally have not done research on castration

Dmitriy Wed Feb 15, 2012 11:00 am Post # 16433

[youtube] https://youtube.com/watch?v=uToX3X8SljA [/ youtube]
Purge. Discharge.
This is probably drawn here. Cool technical breakthrough with open intake and exhaust valves Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself


Vacuum and backpressure are different weight. Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

The exhaust valve opens, the piston moves upward, pushing out the exhaust gases. They exit through a restricted opening, so the exhaust stroke pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure. Resistance at the outlet is created by: a limited opening in the valves, the presence of elements of the exhaust tract.
This creates a back pressure to the movement of the piston and part of the energy stored in the flywheel is spent on overcoming this back pressure.
And if the balance of the exhaust system, calculated by the engineers, is disturbed, then there may be deviations in engine performance.
The catalyst was installed not for resistance, but for the environment Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

There are other tricks for resistance

n1ke Posted on Feb 17, 2012 5:53 am Post # 16527

(: and so - p1. At the beginning of the exhaust tract there is an exhaust manifold - what is an equidistant exhaust manifold and what it is for - this is understandable - why increase its cross-section is the same - but I do not consider it to be made of stainless steel for a Mazda 626 with a 2-liter engine Absolutely Liquid! n2. After the exhaust manifold there is a catalyst - I am not going to knock it out yet (this will depend on its state - but - if it is not completely bad for him - I will try to rinse the Catalyst Cleaner (: - for the sake of experiment, of course, and experience - I saw such a thing in the store - produced by Liqui moly Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

) in 3 - then I have a pipe with 2 seams to a bank that looks like a flame, an extinguisher which is all rusted and collapsed and cuts into the salon again, a pipe with a bunch of welded seams goes to it and then everything is connected to the muffler. So what would at least somehow fix this collective farm and the question arose of how to do it more correctly - just stick an aluminized pipe with a similar diameter - or put a resonator in the cut of the inserted pipe, which, according to the scheme, seems to be there (: well, as an option - in case it will be really bad for me - to weld the entire outlet from stainless steel, starting from the exhaust manifold.By the way, I still do not understand what the flanges on the tuned exhaust are made of - the same from stainless steel?

n1ke Posted on Feb 17, 2012 9:22 am Post # 16532

I thought that I had marked something - this is not a catalyst ^ _ ^ in short - I have to take a picture from under the bottom and it will be clear.
They heard about xedos - but not a large number of people. not great at all. ((: We have Japanese left-handers - the value is rare. Basically, everyone uses right-handed people. (I mean the class of cars from 89 to 2002 approximately)
p.s. thanks for the links - read - informative (:

Yuri Posted on Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:48 am Post # 16537

Quiet happiness Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

n1ke Posted on Feb 17, 2012 at 9:56 am Post # 16539

(: Che, I was completely confused - and for some reason I thought that the catalyst was right in the exhaust manifold ((((: wedged.

The new scheme - come on those in order - who is who. ?
1. Exhaust manifold
2. Catalyst
3. Resonator
4. Unknown x # * nya (really - what is this? OO)
5. Silencer
So ?

P.s. After repairing the muffler, go straight to the dyno? or will we restrict ourselves to the sensor readings during the 402 m race? (((:

Dmitriy Posted on Feb 17, 2012 10:57 am Post # 16541

2 is a flexible corrugation, 3 is a roller, 4 is a resonator Image - Mazda 626 muffler repair do it yourself

Dmitriy Posted on Feb 17, 2012 at 11:04 am Post # 16543

[spoiler] You ask Yuri, and do not take information from the existential. [/ spoiler]

n1ke Posted on Feb 17, 2012 11:07 am Post # 16544

In short - if I find a piece of aluminized steel with a diameter of 50 mm - By the way - what wall thickness should I take? Is 1.5 enough? I will do the exhaust - I'll take it apart - I'll take a picture and see - where was the catalyst and where everything else was. since 20-500A on the diagram beats according to existential FSA8-20-600 USA MAKE - 950816
GE **** -440702 GE12J2 -803719 and in the original costs 50,131.47 rubles. which is equal to $ 1671 X_x

Dmitriy Posted on Feb 17, 2012 11:18 am Post # 16546

what is the problem with spare parts? Why reinvent the wheel? I have a non-original for 4 years and it works great for $ 100, I took a corrugation + a resonator + a glushak (the Katalik was alive)

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  • Published: 12 Aug 2015
  • Many motorists are faced with the need to repair the exhaust system of the car and, in particular, the muffler. It is located at the bottom, so there is always a risk of damaging it while driving. Complete replacement is not always necessary. And therefore, it is better to know how to repair a muffler yourself, as this will save you a lot of money and time.
  • Mazda (Automobile Company) Mazda Capella (Automobile Model) Auto Show (Event) how to repair a mufflerhow to weld a mufflermazda 626
Video (click to play).

what is it? for whom was it filmed? crap. and it wouldn’t hurt to adjust the mode on the PA, it “crumples”.

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