Hydroaccumulator membrane 50 l dzhileks DIY repair

In detail: the membrane of the hydroaccumulator 50 l dzhileks do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The diagram of a water supply system for a private house includes many important elements. And you can't call it simple. One of its most important elements is a hydraulic accumulator.

This device is responsible for maintaining a constant pressure in the system, and also protects the water supply from water hammer. However, nothing lasts forever, therefore, sometimes it is necessary to repair the accumulator. At the same time, most of the faults can be eliminated by hand.

In fact, the structure of the hydraulic accumulator is not particularly complex. It consists of:

main tank;
membrane or rubber container for storing water;
pressure switch, pressure gauge and other fittings.

However, despite their simplicity, these devices can break. The main malfunctions of the accumulator for private water supply systems:

too frequent switching on and off of the pump. This can be due to various reasons. The most common are a decrease in air pressure in the tank, damage to the membrane and damage to the tank body. In addition, the pressure switch may be incorrectly set;
air pressure below normal - most likely, the nipple is damaged, which does not hold pressure;
water flows out of the air valve - this indicates membrane damage;
the required water pressure is not accumulated - there is not enough air in the tank.

Of course, the best option is to call a specialist or send the hydraulic tank to a service center for repair. However, if you wish, you can make repairs with your own hands.

Quite often, you have to change the membrane in the accumulator. However, before disassembling the tank, you should make sure that the reason is in the membrane. After all, the matter may be in the wrong setting of the pressure switch, or in a small volume of air in the hydraulic tank.

Video (click to play).

One of the most common problems is membrane breakage.

The main signs by which you can determine the damage to the membrane:

too frequent switching on of the pump;
water flows from the nipple and air valve.

In this case, the membrane is repaired in the following sequence:

first of all, you need to purchase a new pear and prepare a set of keys;
after that, the accumulator is disconnected from the water supply system;
water is drained from it and air is lowered;
now you need to unscrew the flange and take out the old pear;
further, it is advisable to carefully inspect the inside of the tank - if there is dirt or rust, then you need to clean it;
after that, the new membrane is expanded and installed in the seat;
then, it is pressed against the flange.

Now, it is required to pump its operating pressure into the accumulator, usually 1.5-2 atmospheres. And then do a test run. At the same time, water must be supplied to a new pear under low pressure - this will exclude the possibility of its damage. You can read more about the nuances of repair in the article "How to replace a membrane in a hydraulic accumulator".

This problem can be caused by a number of reasons:

damage to the nipple - air escapes through it;
incorrect setting of the pressure switch;
damage to the tank body.

Sequence of actions for repair:

first, it is worth checking the integrity of the body itself - if it is rotten, then the accumulator may need to be replaced;
if everything is in order with the case, it is worth checking the operation of the pressure switch. It is possible that his settings are out of order;
for this, it is worth trying different operating modes for the hydraulic tank - if the relay is active, then you need to look for the reason elsewhere;
now you need to check the nipple - it can bleed air, if so, then the repair will be reduced to replacing it.

The pressure gauge may show incorrect values

Another reason is a malfunction of the pressure gauge. Those. it may show incorrect numbers. This point is also worth considering.

This phenomenon indicates a lack of air pressure in the tank for water supply systems. Therefore, the very first thing to do is to check the readings of the pressure gauge.

Here you need to take into account the fact that this device may show incorrect values. Therefore, you can simply bleed the air completely from the system through the air injection valve and pump it up again. If the pressure gauge is out of order, you need to replace it.

Another possible reason is that the pressure control relay is out of order. In this case, you need to adjust it. It is possible that the problem will be rectified.

A breakdown of the pressure switch is also one of the possible malfunctions.

You also need to inspect the accumulator itself - if the integrity of the case is violated, the air will be vented. Depending on the size of the damage, you will need to either seal it or buy a new one.

Another common reason is the air nipple is out of order. If so, then you just need to change it. To do this, disconnect the hydraulic accumulator from the water supply system and bleed air from it. After that, you need to unscrew the old nipple and insert a new one in place.

Then air is pumped into the tank to 1.5 atmospheres, and then water is drawn into the membrane.

Sometimes such a breakdown happens. However, it is easy to treat - usually it is enough just to tighten the nuts on the flange. If this does not help, then you will have to drain the water from the tank and release the air pressure, and then remove the flange.

Then you can try to make an additional rubber pad and conduct a test run of the system. The fact is that the accumulator is under constant pressure and from this, microcracks may appear in the rubber.

Water can flow through the flange

If the additional gasket did not help, you will have to buy a new flange. At the same time, you need to inspect the seat - there should be no mechanical damage, burrs and rust on it. If there are any defects, they must be eliminated. they can cause leakage.

In general, these devices do not break down so often; after all, their design is quite simple. However, in order to avoid or diagnose a malfunction in time, it is necessary to periodically service the accumulator. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this, and such a procedure does not take much time.

Service is carried out according to the following schedule:

a simple visual inspection of the device is done every 1-2 months. The accumulator is checked for leaks, in addition, on some models, excess pressure must be relieved;
the next inspection is done every six months. The tank is also checked visually, but in addition it is necessary to check the condition of the air pressure and, if necessary, pump it up. Also, it is worth checking the serviceability of the pressure switch - and, if necessary, adjust the settings.

If the hydraulic accumulator has worked for more than three years, it is advisable to carry out comprehensive prophylaxis. For this, the device is disconnected from the water supply system and the pear is replaced. Flange and nipple replacement may also be required.

Perform prophylaxis every 3 years

You can do it yourself without any problems. However, when replacing parts, it is advisable to buy original products. This is especially true for the membrane.

The normal functionality of a home water supply system depends on the health of the accumulator. If there is a malfunction in the water supply network, it is necessary to immediately establish the cause of the malfunction and repair the equipment.Otherwise, more serious damage and irreversible failure of all equipment may occur. The most common cause of a breakdown is the accumulator membrane. We will learn how to check, replace and diagnose the system.

Most of the malfunctions of the accumulator can be corrected independently. All reasons can be divided into several groups.

Table 1. Malfunctions in accumulators

If air escapes, the membrane is mechanically damaged.

lack of compressed air in the tank.

Air pumping to the required pressure

Recommendations for the maintenance of accumulators:

Monthly inspection, checking the compliance of operating parameters with the norm (for each model and system individually).
Check for corrosion spots on the body and connections.
Check for smudges and moisture of surfaces at the joints.
If there are malfunctions or malfunctions, eliminate them immediately.
Checking the integrity of the membrane (inspection every six months).
When not in use, store the hydraulic tank in a dry place, avoid contact with heating devices (to avoid drying out and destruction of the membrane material).

Hydroaccumulator device diagram

How to check the initial pressure in the container:

Disconnect the tank from the system.
Drain the water.
Connect the pressure gauge to the nipple.
If the readings are lower than the default ones, it is necessary to pump up the pressure to the working one (with an automobile compressor, for example).

Accumulators distinguish between vertical and horizontal design. Accordingly, the membranes also differ in different shapes and designs: conical, cylindrical, spherical, ribbed.

When replacing a unit, you should purchase a product with similar characteristics - size, volume, throat diameter, maximum temperature of the working medium, material, working pressure, etc.

The membrane is a piece of equipment that most often fails, because undergoes constant compression and stretching. The replacement cost depends on the type of tank, capacity, type of membrane, manufacturer.

If the water supply system is operated continuously, it is advisable to purchase a more expensive membrane that can withstand a greater number of operating cycles.

The cost of models from foreign manufacturers reaches half the cost of the accumulator itself. At the same time, the nominal service life of products is several times higher than those of cheaper ones.

If you have minimal skills in working with plumbing equipment, replacing the membrane on the hydraulic tank is not difficult. Adhering to the correct procedure, replacing the assembly takes a minimum amount of time:

Disconnecting the tank from the water supply.
Remove excess air pressure with a nipple.
Empty the container.
Remove the pressure gauge, making room for the diaphragm to exit.
Remove non-working part.
Install a new diaphragm, fix the pressure gauge.
Pump up pressure 0.2 less than the lower pressure of the pump relay.
Install back.

After that, it is necessary to check the operability of the water supply system. To do this, it is necessary to fill the system with water and check the operation of the tank.

The membrane can be repaired by vulcanization. This method can extend its life by several weeks before purchasing and installing a serviceable product. But any repairs are a temporary measure and in any case you will have to buy a new one.

Accumulator element diagram

In addition to standard factory-made hydraulic tanks, you can make such a device yourself. A hydraulic accumulator without a membrane is a normal water tank because it is the membrane that helps maintain the pressure in the system. It is much easier to buy an inexpensive ready-made accumulator.

In order to build a hydraulic accumulator yourself, you need the following materials:

tank (capacity) with a volume of at least 30 liters;
shut-off valves;
ball valve;
half-inch faucet;
fasteners (washers and nuts);
sealant (sealant);
rubber gaskets;
nipple;
fittings (tee, worm).

Make holes in the container (on the lid and bottom, on the side).
Install a half-inch tap in the upper hole (on the cover), seal the connection with gaskets and sealant, and secure with washers.
Fit a tee to the tap.
Fix a shut-off valve ¾ in the lower hole, onto which to slide a tee.
Install a ball valve on the side hole.

A malfunctioning accumulator can affect the operation of the entire water supply system. By applying the tips and techniques described in the article, it is easy to troubleshoot your home plumbing system. Timely prevention can prevent serious breakdowns and premature failure of hydraulic tanks and the entire system as a whole.

I am not a very happy owner of the Dzhileks pumping station. Something happens to her every year. Now the main problem is a burst membrane in a 50-liter HA. She bursts a second time. The first time I was too lazy to mess around - I bought a second GA assembly. Now that the second membrane has burst, I don't want to buy the third one. There is a desire to replace the membrane with a better one. Made in Italy, obviously. Nobody has the experience to do this kind of work? I would like to know if all membranes are interchangeable?Works for half an hour.

Thank you. Technical difficulties do not bother me. The issue of membrane compatibility is of concern.

Many thanks. My worst suspicions were justified. It says, in particular, about the absence of a common standard. Got to shoot and pick up

Thank you. Its shape is interesting, elongated. He's not a checkpoint, by any chance? Or does it have an elongated part inside?
Most of them are:

I don't know, I just got caught in the net

SergeD wrote:
I am not a very happy owner of the Dzhileks pumping station. Something happens to her every year.

I think this is not a warranty case, although they have a good warranty repair. Once I bought two Jileks pumps, both broke down right there. Both were repaired without unnecessary questions and the humiliation traditional for warranty workshops.
I will temporarily put 25 liters at the beginning of the season, and I will analyze these and look at them. Maybe it's not a bad membrane, but welding in the tank or something else. Well, they will weld them with a vulcanizer as a last resort. They will serve for a while.
In general, the pumps are powerful, pressurize water even without a diaphragm

SergeD wrote:
In general, the pumps are powerful, pressurize water even without a diaphragm

without GA, they will start-stop and quickly cover

If in the SAME tank two membranes burst one after the other, I would suggest probing the welded seams from the inside of the tank, for any
sharp protrusions. And in two

... most likely just low-quality rubber. Do not flatter yourself about MADE IN ITALY - it will be the same China, only more expensive.
And Gilex. so far I have not seen a single decent device from them. Look, four pieces of their relyuh on GA changed in the garage lying around.
While I figured out what the problem was, Kondraty didn't have enough of anger.

Image - Hydroaccumulator membrane 50 l dzhileks do-it-yourself repair

Membrane gaskets were given one or two seasons. Then the rubber dubs and ceases to react to pressure changes. It is treated once by replacing the elastic band with an elastic bandage, or a piece of a children's bicycle camera.
Go to any Leroy and consult the sellers. Surely all of these pears are interchangeable like bicycle cameras.

Each residential building needs water supply, therefore, on the territory of country houses or cottages, special pumping stations are built, consisting of two parts: a pump and a hydraulic accumulator. The most important part of the tank is the membrane, the purpose of which is to perform all the basic functions of the tank.

A membrane for a hydroaccumulator can be visually compared to a medical heating pad, which holds about 24-50 liters of water.There are large tanks with a capacity of over 100 liters. They are pear-shaped or bottle-shaped. Regardless of the external data, the membrane is designed to perform certain functions. It always consists of elastic materials. The container is inserted into the metal body of the tank, which divides it in half. One part is for water and the other is for air.

The membrane is designed so that when the pump is turned on, it pumps water into the tank. The container is filled strictly to a certain level in order to achieve the maximum allowed pressure. The pressure level can be seen on the pump relay, which typically ranges from 1.7 to 3 atmospheres. When the pressure reaches the maximum point, the pump automatically stops its work. The water will remain under the current pressure, which allows it to flow out of the tap with normal pressure. This is because the compressed air inside the tank no longer affects the water.

The principle of operation of the membrane for the accumulator allows you to significantly save electricity and increase the operating life of the equipment. The use of a tank for water supply systems helps to minimize sudden pressure surges inside the structure, which is an undoubted advantage.

It is possible to classify the membrane for the accumulator by purpose. It can be designed for water supply or heating systems. In the case of using a product for a water supply system, it is worth highlighting the following characteristics:

it is made from rubber;
the temperature of the medium varies in the range from 0 to + 70 ° С;
its maximum working pressure is 7 atmospheres;
it is not afraid of bacteria.

If the accumulator is operated under normal air pressure inside its body, then the rubber bulb will work reliably and for a long time for many years. It is not so often that a rubber bulb fails, and more often and most quickly “trouble” and malfunctions associated with leaks in the airspace of the accumulator come to the din.

Air through the accumulator nipple, see photo

pumped directly into the volume of its metal body. What and where in this design can be leaky and let the pumped air pass?

rotten, rusted, mechanically punctured the metal of the case itself. Only replacement, welding or repair metal repair.
broken nipple. Maybe the nipple itself breaks and starts to pass both there and back - then it is necessary to change the nipple, but this is a rarity and such a malfunction will sooner be understood in it right away - pumped up, began to disconnect the pump, and the air rushes back from the nipple.
hole for the nipple. The nipple is simply inserted into a small hole in the metal of the accumulator body and screwed tightly through rubber gaskets with a nut. Naturally, over time, there are many reasons for such a connection to begin to leak air.
hole for the "pear". A hefty hole, usually opposite the small one for the nipple. A rubber "bulb" of the accumulator is pushed inside this hole (a man's hand will fit). The pear has a “bent outward” rubber cuff “at the inlet”, which, laying on top of the hole and being attracted to the body by 6 (usually) bolts through a special metal flange, closes the air outlet through this hefty hole.
Again, this place, over time, is quite capable of starting to leak air.

What do we do to restore the tightness of the accumulator.
After making sure that the body is intact and the nipple itself is serviceable.
We turn off the power supply to the pump.
We close the entrance to the water supply system - I have a tap on the pipe of a self-priming pump. We open any (which is convenient) cold water tap in the house - we drain the water until it stops pouring from the open tap.
Stopped pouring. We close the tap.
We go to the accumulator.We are preparing a bowl for collecting water, which will fit under the union nut, we are preparing rags and a bucket.
Union nut screwed to the flange - see photo

Loosen the union nut slightly. From under it, at first, slowly, then the water will be cheerfully trampled down - it is the remnants of the water that has not been drained out of the accumulator pouring out.
Unscrew the nut so that you have time to pour from the vessel into the bucket without spilling too much on the floor. Please note that in this case, the water will pour out long enough and a lot, about three buckets. Finally, it will end and the water from under the flare nut will stop pouring. Then we unscrew the union nut completely (put rags everywhere to collect water - it will still be) and remove it from the flange thread.
Now we unscrew all 6 screws of the flange, see the photo (two accumulators take part in the photo session at the same time - an old one and a new one, but in fact they are the same)

We open the tap at the inlet (the one that I closed on the supply suction pipe).
We supply power to the pump.
The pump will pump the accumulator completely with water and turn off automatically.
Use a tire pressure gauge to check and write down the air pressure you now have in a fully filled accumulator. This will be noticeably more than 1.4 bars, for example 2.7 bars. Write down this number and check once a month if it is less than this number on the full accumulator - pump some air with a pump so that it becomes as it was again.
Once a year, completely drain the water from the accumulator and set 1.4 bar when empty. Now your plumbing system's accumulator is fully functional and does exactly what it should.
It's easy to make sure. How many liters were there in the first experiment from the beautiful half poured out until the moment the pump was started? 7 poured out earlier. Now repeat the same experiment. You will pour out not 7 but 15 liters. This means that your pump now turns on twice less often. And the water pressure drops are no longer as great as before.
You won't be thrown from cold to hot and back so sharply under the shower.

I didn’t say anything about replacing the old torn pear with a new one, but it doesn’t differ from the installation of the old one that we just took out and returned from Avili :-).
About what a simple device you can check an old pear, find out if there are small holes in it and where exactly they are (so that, for example, vulcanize or glue) about this next time.
Good luck tireless homeowners!

An important aspect that ensures the comfort and coziness of suburban home ownership is the stable and uninterrupted functioning of the autonomous water supply system.

Therefore, many owners of houses and cottages, first of all, pay special attention to the correct installation of the water supply system and all its structural elements, since the supply of water from a well or a well directly depends on their work.

As a rule, an autonomous water supply system consists of the following components:

water intake pump;
hydroaccumulator or hydraulic tank;
main pipeline.

Undoubtedly, the trouble-free operation of all the above structural elements is important for the normal functioning of the water supply.

But today we want to focus your attention on the hydraulic tank, which plays a key role in the autonomous water supply system, as well as on the uninterrupted operation of which it largely depends on whether you have water in the tap or not.

Therefore, in this article we will talk about what a hydraulic accumulator is, what tasks it performs, and also give recommendations on how to eliminate various kinds of malfunctions and breakdowns of this important element of an autonomous water supply system.

A water storage device of this type, as a rule, consists of the following structural components:

platform for the device;
metal body, which can be made of both high-strength steel and stainless steel;
accumulator membrane or pear-shaped rubber reservoir;
flange with valve for water supply;
nipple for pumping air into the device.

Many ordinary people who are going to mount a water supply system, having familiarized themselves with the device of a hydraulic tank, do not fully understand why this unit is needed in an autonomous water supply system.

For greater awareness, it is worth noting the fact that the accumulator is designed to perform a number of the following tasks:

accumulates a reserve stock of water in case of emergencies in water supply;
stabilizes excess pressure that appears in the water supply system;
protects the pipeline from water hammer that occurs when the pump is turned on for water intake;
maintains a stable water pressure in the pipes when the pump is off;
contributes to the long-term operation of the pump, since the pump unit turns on much less often;
promotes uniform water supply at moments of maximum consumption.

Read the article on how to make a hydraulic accumulator yourself here.

Analyzing the functions performed by the hydraulic tank, one can involuntarily come to the conclusion that the functioning of the entire water supply system in general depends on the stable operation of this device.

Therefore, an important fact is that in the event of various kinds of malfunctions and failures, they will urgently need to be corrected.

Among the possible malfunctions of the accumulator, a number of the following points can be distinguished:

Diaphragm damaged. Factors indicating this type of damage are the following:
- the pump turns on quite often;
- water leaks from under the air valve;
- liquid drips through the nipple;
- water from the tap flows in jerks.

Elimination of the hydraulic tank malfunction in this case is quite logical - it is necessary to replace the membrane.

To troubleshoot this kind of problem, it is worth using an ordinary pump to pump up the required pressure level in the hydraulic tank, and in the event of a nipple malfunction, replace this element.

Water is oozing from under the flange. The elimination of this malfunction is that you need to tighten the fasteners or simply replace the flange.

Low water pressure. In this case, as a rule, it is not about the accumulator, but about the pump. Most likely, the pump was selected incorrectly in terms of power.

We hope that using our tips and tricks, you can easily eliminate all faults in your autonomous water supply network.

Watch the video in which the user demonstrates a number of preventive measures to prevent premature repair of the accumulator:

We will consistently show the process of replacing a defective accumulator membrane. When our accumulator failed, the space between the membrane and the body was filled with water. The purpose of the bottom flange is to hold the rubber membrane in the accumulator body. When we unscrewed the flange, water flowed out of the body.

First, we carefully unscrew the bolts from the flange, remove the flange and wait for the water to drain.

By slightly freeing the edges of the membrane, remove the remaining water.

In this model of a hydroaccumulator with a volume of 150 liters, a membrane fastener is also provided in the upper part.

This is a male threaded nipple. Carefully unscrew the nut from it and take out the faulty membrane together with the threaded fitting through the hole in the lower part of the case.

After removing the membrane, nothing remains in the body, so at this stage it is recommended to thoroughly clean the inner surface of the body.

The membrane is shaped like a pear. Please note that the new membrane must fully match the original. Don't buy cheap options with a different specification, it will cost more in the long run. Take the old diaphragm to the store as a sample or rewrite its specification from the plate on the accumulator body.

Helpful hint: it is advisable to wash the new membrane in a non-aggressive cleaning solution before use. We insert a threaded fitting into the membrane to attach it from above and slowly screw it into the hole in the membrane.

We insert a new membrane into the accumulator body through the lower hole in the body.

We push the membrane up to its protrusions in the lower part.

Now our task is to straighten the membrane inside the body and get the threaded fitting into the hole in its upper part. For a larger model, you can use special devices or tie a rope to the fitting in advance and pull it through the hole.

We tighten the nut onto the threaded union.

A recess for a hexagon is provided inside the fitting. Use an adjustable wrench to slightly tighten the nut. If it is not planned to install a regulating automatics, a pressure gauge or an air release valve on the accumulator, then the upper hole in the flange can be plugged with a metal cap of a suitable diameter. Fum tape or flax can be used as a seal.

We wind 5-6 turns of the fum tape and install the cap.

First, we twist it by hand, then tighten it with an adjustable wrench.

Install the lower pressure flange onto the body. This flange fixes the diaphragm to the body by pressing the edges of the diaphragm. The bolts on the flange should be installed and tightened according to the same rules by which the wheels of the car are twisted. Depending on the number of bolts, a criss-cross or an asterisk pattern can be used. We must try to install and tighten the bolts from opposite sides - this way we will achieve uniform pressing of the flange and membrane. When all the bolts are installed, tighten them one by one with a socket wrench.

We connect the accumulator with a gasket and a union nut to the water supply system. There is enough hand effort here.

Before starting the accumulator, it is necessary to create additional air pressure. To do this, unscrew the plastic cover from the nipple and connect the pump.

Using the pressure gauge, we monitor the increase in pressure in the tank. Typically, the accumulator plate indicates the air pre-pressure value. In our case, it is 1.5 bars.

If no value is specified, set the pressure to 1.5 - 2 bar. After that, you can open the tap and supply water to the accumulator.

Modern pumping stations, which are located in almost every residential cottage, and are also used in summer cottages and in any other buildings that need water supply, consist of two parts. The first is a pump that pumps water.

The second is a hydraulic accumulator, which accumulates it and is responsible for maintaining the required pressure in the system. It is possible to install a hydroaccumulator separately from the pump - in case it is necessary to use a large-volume container.

Rubber diaphragms for accumulators of various shapes ("pear" and "balloon").

The most important part of the tank is the membrane for the accumulator - in fact, it is it that performs all the basic functions of the tank.

The membrane for the accumulator looks like an ordinary medical heating pad or jar - in small models (up to 100 liters). In a larger tank (from 100 liters and more), its shape is more like a pear or a bottle.

The essence, however, does not change - in any case, this is a container made of elastic materials. It is inserted into the metal body of the tank, dividing it into two parts... One - inside the membrane - contains water. The second - between the wall of the membrane and the body - the air pumped inside.

This design is intended for the following: a switched on pump pumps water into the tank (or rather, into the membrane). It is filled to a certain level - until the pressure inside reaches the maximum pressure (for domestic water supply systems, this parameter ranges from 1.8 to 3 atmospheres), which is set on the pump pressure switch.

The location of the membrane inside the accumulator tank.

At this moment, the pump itself will turn off. The water will remain under pressure, and will be able to flow from the taps with normal pressure - since now it will be affected by the compressed air inside the tank.

This will save both electricity and increase the service life of the equipment - since the pump will be in operation for a shorter time. In addition, the use of a tank for water supply systems is also useful in that the sudden pressure surges created when the pump is turned on are minimized.

Conventionally, the membrane for the accumulator is classified by purpose:

Let's take a closer look at the nuances of products in each category.

Diaphragms for accumulators of various sizes (from 24 to 300 liters).

The membrane for a hydraulic accumulator used for water supply systems has the following characteristics:

production material: rubber;
ambient temperature: from 0 to +70 degrees;
maximum working pressure: 7 atmospheres.

This type of product is bacteria-neutral.

The tank membrane, which will be used for heating systems, has the following differences:

material of manufacture: EPDM rubber (a special compound, which is a rubber produced using a special technology);
ambient temperature: up to +99 degrees;
maximum working pressure: 8 atmospheres.

Like any other rubber product, a membrane for a tank (it does not matter for which systems - heating or water supply) has a number of disadvantages. In particular, she negatively perceives:

Sectional hydraulic accumulator - the location of the membrane inside the tank.

frequent and / or sudden changes in temperature;
temperature rise above the established limit;
excess pressure over the established limit (however, for water supply or heating systems this is of little relevance, since AL-KO household pumping stations usually have a lower operating pressure);
frequent and / or sharp squeezing.

However, the operating conditions in water supply and heating systems are usually such that it is simply impossible to avoid negative effects. For example: in the evenings, water consumption rises sharply - coming home from work, a person wants to take a shower, cook food, eat, wash the dishes. This will quickly drain the contents of the tank. The same thing happens in the morning when a person is in a hurry to go to work.

So, despite the fact that the service life of the membrane of the water supply tank is usually indicated up to 5 years, in fact, its replacement is required much more often. For prophylaxis purposes, it is recommended periodically (at least once a year) check the integrity of the product (how exactly - we will consider below).

Hydraulic accumulator membranes of various sizes.

Separately, mention should be made of the volume of capacity - after all, this is, in fact, its key parameter. Modern tanks are available in volume sizes starting from 8 liters.

The most common option for household appliances is 24, 50, 60 and 80 liters (the maximum model can hold up to 2 thousand liters of water, however, for an ordinary residential cottage or summer cottage, this, of course, is not relevant).

Also, membranes of larger capacity are popular - for 100-200 liters, which is important for cottages in which more than 4-5 people live.
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If the water from the tap starts to flow intermittently (either with a normal pressure, or in a thin stream with periodic intensification), and the pressure gauge needle "jumps", showing a sharp change in pressure, this is a clear sign that the membrane needs to be checked.

Now you need to figure out how to check the integrity of the membrane. The stages are as follows:

Torn membrane appearance.

The pump switches off.
The water supply to the tank is shut off.
The water is drained from the tank.

If, during the drainage of the liquid, air escapes from the hole, it means that the integrity of the product is violated, and it must be changed without fail (or vulcanized - if there is such an opportunity).

Alternatively, you can check the integrity in another way: by bleeding air from the tank.If, at the end of the procedure, water flows from the nipple, it means that the diagnosis has been made correctly; the membrane is damaged.
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If you have done the above procedure and are sure that the integrity of the product is violated, it means that you need to replace the worn out "pear". To do this, we perform the following actions:

The accumulator is disconnected from the pipeline.
The air pressure is released (if it has not been done before). The nipple, which is intended for this, is located on the top of the tank body (regardless of whether it is vertical or horizontal).
Hose and cover - unscrew.

At the same time, be prepared for the fact that there is still water inside the container, and there will be a lot of it. For this reason, the procedure must be carried out holding a basin next to it, or in a place where it will not be scary to flood the floor with water (on the street or in a garage, for example).

The process of removing the old membrane from the tank.

After the water from the accumulator has completely drained, you can continue the procedure:

The cover with a pressure gauge is dismantled.
Through a specially designed hole (located at the bottom of the body, regardless of the design of the tank), the membrane is pulled out.

At this stage, at the same time, it is required to inspect the case itself. Attention should be paid to rust, cracks, dirt - it goes without saying that all this should not be. After checking, the tank is rinsed from the inside and put aside - to dry.

The new (or old, but repaired) membrane is washed and installed in the accumulator.
The diaphragm flange is assembled in place.

After the structure has been assembled back - it is required to pump air into the tank - so that the device can function normally. This is done using a conventional pump, through a spool, which is usually located in the lower part of the body.
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Video (click to play).