Mercedes 190 D. W 201.Rear arches repair.
VIDEO
This manual contains an illustrated edition for the repair of Merkedes-Benz 190 / 190E (W201) 1982 - 1993, with engines: Gasoline: 1.8 l (109 hp), 2.0 l (66/105/102/122/118 / hp) ), 2.3 l (136/132/185/177/170 / hp), 2.5 l (204/194 hp), 2.6 l (166/160 hp). Diesel: 2.0 L (72/75 HP), 2.5 L (90/94/122/126 HP).
Video (click to play).
1 Block the front wheels and loosen the rear wheel bolts. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and place it on the axle supports. Remove the rear wheel.
2 Loosen the mounting screws / latches and remove the protective cover from the base of the lower arm.
3 Install the puller on the spring and compress the spring so that ... Continue reading →
1 The wiring diagrams shown are for C-class models only.
2 At the time of this writing, no other model information was available in print.
3 When working on a different class of models, remember that you can troubleshoot and check the supply and ground parts of the circuits with a simple multimeter. See troubleshooting methods.
1 The external temperature sensor is attached to the left side of the grille below the front bumper, the sensor display is integrated into the dashboard.
2 To remove the sensor, detach the panel from the bumper and disconnect the sensor wiring connector (see illustrations). On early models, the sensor cannot be disabled and the wiring harness remains in the vehicle. If ... Continue reading →
Advanced models are equipped with Parktronic to make parking easier. The system includes ultrasonic sensors for the front and rear bumpers, which detect the presence of objects in front of or behind the vehicle. Based on the signal from the sensors, the control unit calculates the distance to the object, about which the driver is given light and sound signals. The system works at speeds up to 15 km / h.
There are a total of six sensors in the front bumper and ... Read more →
1 Turn the key in the ignition switch to position 0, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery and move it away from the pole pin.
Driver's airbag
2 Loosen and remove the two screws securing the air bag on the back of the steering wheel, rotating the wheel as necessary to gain access to the screws (see illustration).… Read more →
Hi all! I have a question, a Mercedes 190 e 2.3 l car, after rain or damp weather the engine starts to run, found the reason, finish in the tramler cover, tell me what to do. thanks in advance.
Dry the distributor and put on a rubber glove with cut fingers.
Posts: 1
Mercedes-Benz 190 volume 2.0
Hi all ! I have 190 e 2.0 89g the same problem, only the distributor cover is ok, there is no condensation, it turned out that the coil is damp, I put a bag on it and everything was fine. now another firebrand has appeared, as it became cooler to start from the fifth. the seventh time, at idle it works as it should, but when you get under way or switch it podtraits. And on the track when you step, too, everything is right. candles, distributor cover, wires, changed, there is no suction anywhere. tell me what could be? can the nozzle pour? who knows if the gas pump began to crush a little, will there be such symptoms? even where two thin tubes leave the block, one of them just lies under the intake manifold. I do not understand where she should be dressed. dv 102 petrol, electro mechanic for earlier grateful!
Hello everyone. Today we are under repair Mercedes 190 2.0 gasoline. The owner said that the stove was not heating well and that something was dripping under our feet. In general, the situation is clear, you need to replace or repair the stove radiator. And under the feet in the area of the gas pedal, antifreeze drips from the leaky radiator.
Vendor code : A 002 835 54 01.
If there is no money for the original, I advise you to take a company heater Behr-Hella ... Here is its part number: 8FH 351 311-591. It is suitable for cars with / without air conditioning.
Tools:
set of hexagons
crosshead screwdriver
head for eight
head for ten
pliers
1. Pick up the signal on the steering wheel and remove it.
2. Behind it, unscrew the steering wheel mounting bolt under the hexagon and remove the steering wheel.
3. Next, unscrew the three screws securing the “guitar”.
4. Now unscrew the two screws securing the speaker grids and remove the grids. We shoot from both sides.
5. Eight bolts under the nets, unscrew them.
6. We take out the plafond of lighting in the glove compartment, and disconnect the power from it.
7. Unscrew the two screws securing the triangle, after pulling out the blinds.
8. Unscrew the two screws at the bottom of the beard.
9. Unscrew the bolt on the triangle with a hexagon.
10. Remove the airflow adjustment knobs. We substitute a rag and pull through it with pliers towards ourselves.
11. Unscrew three nuts under the handles. I don't have such a head, so I unscrewed it with pliers.
12. Disconnect the two contacts of the airflow handle illumination.
13. We take out the dashboard on ourselves.
14. We take two hooks from the wire, carefully hook and pull towards ourselves.
15. We put our hand in and disconnect all the connectors from the dashboard, I advise you to write down where that stood.
16. Unscrew the two screws securing the trim under the steering wheel.
17. Unscrew the torpedo mounting bolt ten to the left.
18. Remove the light switch knob in the same way as the airflow controls.
19. Unscrew the nut under the handle.
20. Unscrew the trim on the passenger side, secured with three screws.
21. Unscrew the torpedo fastening screw on the right by ten.
22. Nothing holds the torpedo anymore, we pull it towards ourselves.
1. Unscrew the two screws securing the radiator, eight screws.
2. Disconnect the stove motor adjustment cable.
3. Unscrew the three screws securing the radiator casing to the body, ten screws.
4. We take out the casing with the radiator and begin disassembly.
5. Open the metal latches around the perimeter of the casing body.
6. Unscrew the two screws securing the casing, it consists of two parts.
7. Disconnect the hinges and halve the radiator casing.
eight.There is a radiator in one of the halves, it is fixed with a frame that is screwed on with six screws.
9. Unscrew the six screws and take out the radiator.
10. Then I think it's clear, we take a new radiator and reassemble it.
If you have financial problems, you can try to get your radiator repaired. In our case, the plastic on the left of the radiator cracked, and there was a leak.
To check the radiator for leaks, you need to install the radiator on a car without a shroud and start the engine. In a few minutes you will understand where it flows.
In our case, I flared the leaking side and removed the plastic. I covered the crack with a sealant, you can also solder it. Then I assembled the radiator and installed the radiator without a casing in the cabin. I checked for leaks and then put everything back together.
If you decide to solder, I would like to recommend a hot air soldering station that I assembled myself. Soldered according to this scheme. With a drill, I chamfered the crack, sawed it. Then I cut out the strip I needed from a suitable plastic. I will use it as an electrode. Using a thermal air balloon, I heat our plastic electrode until it melts so that it fills the crack. I have a soldering iron in my other hand, as the crack fills, I smooth and solder the edges. If someone finds it difficult to understand in words, look for a video of how to repair bumpers on cars.
I bought a car Mercedes E190 '85 of release for 15t.r.
The fuel pump relay is broken, threw on a straight line, rides, pulls!
I drove it to the district before winter, snow fell, summer tires, and so it stood, in the fall it did not seem to warm up and the antifreeze did not flow, but for some reason after winter it knocked out a hole in the pump, the antifreeze leaked out, began to warm up!
four wheels have small holes, rusty sills. there is a welder and a welder, how to close them up as timely as possible!
The speedometer, tachometer do not work .. under the hood there are a lot of wires going nowhere (part of the signaling, part of the xs)
The hatch turns the engine, it has a stroke of 5-10 cm, then it stops. (what is the structure of the hatch, can it just lubricate, or everything is more cunning there)
The handbrake does not work, only the driver works!
It starts up well, you have to turn off the jam under the hood by disconnecting the wire, which is from the fuel pump and the clamp, respectively.
The salon is dirtied and because of the leaking hatch, right now I glued it on time! (took off all the headlining, sagged. can someone tell me where to muddle the interior)
The trunk lock is needed, and the driver's lock does not work, the key cannot be turned!
The hose sticks out of the engine and goes nowhere. IF ANYONE CAN GUIDE I CAN KINA PHOTO.
I LIKE IT VERY MUCH, BUT I DO NOT WANT TO RIDE WITHOUT "PANTS" ON IT.
PLEASE REFUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE, IT WILL HELP ME VERY MUCH.
AND RESPOND TO MY DIFFICULTIES, WHILE ANYTHING IS UNDERSTANDING INSIDE, I LOOK, TRYING TO UNDERSTAND, BUT NOT WITHOUT THE HELP OF KNOWING PEOPLE.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE TO ALL WHO RESPONDED, FOR REAL HELP AND IN CASH EQUIVALENTS, I CAN THANK YOU.
Ngolubev
I bought a car Mercedes E190 '85 of release
the list of which I briefly outline on 40 pages.
Thank you. and then on another forum in the Junk in the Junk. Yes, as in junk, such a beautiful car))))))
the pump is only a replacement, this hole is made on purpose (all cars have it) so that if the pump starts to flow through it (you cannot plug it), you cannot overheat the engine
The only thing missing is a dead potentiometer, so that the traffic lights are stalled and there will be "full stuffing"
Ngolubev Welcome to the forum!
I bought a car Mercedes E190 '85 of release for 15t.r.
As the saying goes: - "What did you want for this money?"
whether it is possible to plug this hole, at least for a while, whether it will help from overheating or it will kill the car. How much does the pump cost, replacement, where can you buy.
Only change the pump! In which city are we going to buy? it costs from 2000 and above, depending on the manufacturer.
four wheels have small holes, rusty sills. there is a welder and a welder, how to close them up as timely as possible!
If the thresholds are not rusted into the trash, then you can put patches, everything here only depends on the welder and on his ability to work with a “semi-automatic”.
The speedometer, tachometer do not work ... under the hood there are a bunch of wires going nowhere (part of the signaling, part of the xs)
Watch the cable. Watch the power supply to it and the TD signal from the switch.
The hatch turns the engine, it has a stroke of 5-10 cm, then it stops. (what is the structure of the hatch, can it just lubricate, or everything is more cunning there)
Disassemble, watch the mechanism, lubricate, change broken parts.
It starts up well, you have to turn off the jam under the hood by disconnecting the wire, which is from the fuel pump and the clamp, respectively.
The trunk lock is needed, and the driver's lock does not work, the key cannot be turned!
Buy a lock for disassembly, remove the larva from the driver's lock and carry it to the master.
The handbrake does not work, only the driver works!
Watch cables, parking brake mechanism. On the W201, it is separate, it lives inside the brake disc.
The hose sticks out of the engine and goes nowhere. IF ANYONE CAN GUIDE I CAN KINA PHOTO.
PLEASE REFUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE, IT WILL HELP ME VERY MUCH.
And read the rules again! Large letters, on the Internet, are equated with shouting and disrespecting the interlocutors.
As for the rest - "we smoke the forum", all the questions in the forum are answered. Use the search, if something is not clear, continue existing topics of a similar subject!
IMHO yab started from the hatch. It is not easy to do and often expensive. Therefore, I think it is better now to give it the “closed” position and leave it until better times, and until it is moldy to start washing the interior. Immediately the field of this, or rather, at the same time, by urgency, to make a pump. If, after removing the belt, there is no backlash in it, then you can change the oil seal for 300 rubles, but for this you need to remove the impeller, and this is very laborious. If there is any play, immediately look for another pump while the engine is alive. I recently saw the back can in a flea market for 1000re. The handbrake is done in the middle of the street and new pads can be found by 400 rubles, such as fedoro, etc. Locks are taken down without haste at home on a newspaper and restored to zero. You just need to start with the key and, accordingly, with the ЗЗ.
Yes, now I saw that instead of banks I made a turuba for 2t!
I bought a car Mercedes E190 '85 of release for 15t.r.
The fuel pump relay is broken, threw on a straight line, rides, pulls!
I drove it to the district before winter, snow fell, summer tires, and so it stood, in the fall it did not seem to warm up and the antifreeze did not flow, but for some reason after winter it knocked out a hole in the pump, the antifreeze leaked out, began to warm up!
four wheels have small holes, rusty sills. there is a welder and a welder, how to close them up as timely as possible!
The speedometer, tachometer do not work .. under the hood there are a lot of wires going nowhere (part of the signaling, part of the xs)
The hatch turns the engine, it has a stroke of 5-10 cm, then it stops. (what is the structure of the hatch, can it just lubricate, or everything is more cunning there)
The handbrake does not work, only the driver works!
It starts up well, you have to turn off the jam under the hood by disconnecting the wire, which is from the fuel pump and the clamp, respectively.
The salon is dirtied and because of the leaking hatch, right now I glued it on time! (took off all the headlining, sagged. can someone tell me where to muddle the interior)
The trunk lock is needed, and the driver's lock does not work, the key cannot be turned!
The hose sticks out of the engine and goes nowhere. IF ANYONE CAN GUIDE I CAN KINA PHOTO.
I LIKE IT VERY MUCH, BUT I DO NOT WANT TO RIDE WITHOUT "PANTS" ON IT.
PLEASE REFUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE, IT WILL HELP ME VERY MUCH.
AND RESPOND TO MY DIFFICULTIES, WHILE ANYTHING IS UNDERSTANDING INSIDE, I LOOK, TRYING TO UNDERSTAND, BUT NOT WITHOUT THE HELP OF KNOWING PEOPLE.
We wish you a lot of patience! Too much work for a beginner! May Oldmerin be with you!
It seems to me that it could ride more or less bearably it is necessary to invest 50-70 sput. Here is a similar 190 revived mp; # entry801077
Post has been edited by Leonidych: April 29, 2010 - 14:34
well, if you weld a pipe for 2t instead of a new glushak for 1.5, then 70 is not enough
The fuel pump relay is broken, threw on a straight line, rides, pulls!
It starts up well, you have to turn off the jam under the hood by disconnecting the wire, which is from the fuel pump and the clamp, respectively.
What city do you live in? I have a relyukha from 2.3 for a working gas pump, I will give for a jar of forfeits 0.33
with petrol engines: M102.910 1.8 l (1798 cc) 109 hp / 80 kW, M102.924 - carburetor / M102.652 - injection 2.0 l (1996 cm³) 105-122 hp / 77-89 kW, M102.985 2.3 l (2298 cm³) 136 hp / 100 kW, M103.942 2.6 l (2597 cm³) 166 hp / 122 kW and diesel OM601.911 2.0-liter atmospheric power - 75 hp. / 55 kW displacement - 1997 cm³, OM602.911 / OM602.961 2.5 l D / TD (2497 cm³) 94-122 hp / 69-89 kW. Preparation for technical inspection, technical characteristics, design features, color schemes of electrical equipment, control dimensions of the body. Mercedes-Benz 190 with bodies W201 sedan model release from 1982 to 1993 read online, download
Video Mercedes-Benz W201 190 front coil spring removal
VIDEO VIDEO
The Mercedes Benz 190 was released in Europe at the end of 1982 and entered the UK the following September. All vehicles feature traditional, practical Mercedes design and construction combined with first-class workmanship. Models were produced only of the Sedan type, however, with the installation of 1.8-liter, 2.0-liter, 2.3-liter and 2.6-liter gasoline engines or 2.0-liter, 2.5-liter naturally aspirated and turbocharged diesel engines.
All engines are well proven engines found in many Mercedes vehicles. The engines are four-cylinder (2.0 and 2.3 liter petrol engines), five-cylinder (2.5 liter diesel engines) or six-cylinder engines (2.6 liter petrol engines) with an overhead camshaft located along the car, with a gearbox fixed at the rear. Cars are equipped with mechanical and automatic transmissions. All models have fully independent suspension both front and rear.
Cars are equipped with a wide range of standard and optional equipment, including central locking, power window lifters, electric sunroof, anti-lock braking system (ABS) and airbags, to suit a wide range of tastes. Some models are equipped with air conditioning and traction control. If you carry out regular maintenance according to the manufacturer's recommendations, the car should prove to be reliable and very fuel efficient. The engine compartment is so well designed that most of the service points requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.
Your Mercedes 190 Owner's Manual
Mercedes 190 / 190E: Device, service, repair
Year of issue: 1997
MERCEDES 190 / 190E
MERCEDES 190 D
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We present for review the Manual for the repair, operation and maintenance of Mercedes Benz 190, 190E (W 201) cars, which were produced from 1982 to 1993, and were equipped with gasoline engines with a volume of 1.8, 2.0, 2.3, 2, 5, 2.6 l. Mercedes Benz 190, 190E (W 201) , for the repair of units and assemblies of the car Mercedes Benz 190, 190E (W 201). Details in the repair manual Mercedes Benz 190, 190E (W 201) describes the procedures for the repair of the engine, power system, exhaust system, clutch, gearbox, suspension, steering, brakes, wheels and tires, body, electrical equipment (full color schemes of electrical equipment Mercedes Benz 190, 190E (W 201) are given). Mercedes Benz 190 , car service workers
The topic is closed. If you still need help, sign up for our car service for the diagnosis and repair of Mercedes by phones: (495) 381-21-87, (925) 506-44-86.
most likely a problem with the injector, what exactly is difficult to say, you need to look at the car. I recommend you a good specialist for KE-injection: 095 107 53 41 Dmitry.
Sincerely,
Dear Michael. I can’t say, but I had a similar case, the Delor ended up replacing the fuel pump and stock.
High fuel consumption, replaced the fuel pump no use
There was something similar with my 102nd. The cold engine started immediately. When the engine warmed up, the idle speed began to “float”. On the move, at engine speeds up to 2500 rpm., The engine is often "troilus", does not develop normal power. As the engine revs increased, the tachometer showed a little over 3500 rpm. On inspection of the spark plugs, three were in good condition, one covered with black carbon.The cause of the malfunction turned out to be trivial: the high-voltage wire for this candle - again! Increased gaps between the electrodes of the candles - two! The electronic injection system immediately reacted to these matters. It also does not hurt to look at the contacts under the ignition distributor cover (usually burnt). As a result, I replaced the old wires with new ones from BERU, new BERU plugs with a gap of 0.8 (!). And flew.
Merce 190E. A cold engine starts immediately. When the engine warms up, idle turns start to “float”. The candles are dry, the fuel consumption is normal, they strain the floating speed, tell me what it might be, the computer diagnostics shows everything is fine, but swimming reaches 1500 rpm and sometimes stalls. Thanks!
either the wiring of the spark plugs, or the plugs are poor (I advise Champion S9YCC), or the injectors are covered, thereby the injector is stupid. but in general the car is young, there are a lot of MB problems, because. fumes from the exhaust mb and due to a burnt-out gasket on the cylinders
your mixture is very re-enriched. and the mixture is dispensed by the dispenser. you need to see the master if you yourself go there for the first time :(
I have 190. 83 years old. everything was ok, stood for 2 days and hello. the smoke comes from the pipe of a candle with velvet soot, the temperature goes off scale. what to do. or overclock and pi. this about the pillar
The text of the article was published in the journal “Za Rulem” No. 8, 2000.
"INJECTION? NOT A ROBEY
Once they brought me a Mercedes-190E with a stalled engine on a tie. According to the owner, “everything was fine and suddenly, during acceleration, the engine cut off…”. The fact that the elimination of the defect does not require a “brainstorming”, I realized without opening the hood: on this ten-year-old “gelding” the mechanical “KE-Jetronic” is as simple as a Siberian felt boot. Suddenly there is nothing to break there, and therefore, in a maximum of half an hour, the client will leave in a working car.
To remove the metering plunger, you will need to unscrew the center nut.
First, as usual, we will find out the reason: either there is nothing to burn, or there is nothing to set fire to. So ... there is a spark - it hits like a cannon. Now let's check the fuel. I remove the block from the plugs of the fuel pump relay and short-circuit its sockets “30” and “87” with a jumper, supplying 12 volts directly to the pump. I slightly unscrew the supply line union, and the fuel sprinkles with a hiss into a rag brought to the hydraulic connector. Already by feeling, without a pressure gauge (after all, experience - fifteen years!), I determine that the pump develops six atmospheres - that means, let's go further along the chain.
Disconnect the injector line of the first cylinder and, having removed the air intake, lightly press the air flow meter flap (see Fig.). Aha! Its course is difficult, and gasoline does not enter the highway. I unscrew the three screws securing the metering distributor and remove it from the body of the flow meter. So it is - the plunger is seized. The accumulation of resins and the smallest dust that passed through the filters, deposited in the gap of the mating parts, simply blocked the assembly.
With an effort I take out the plunger and rinse it, and at the same time the dispenser hole with a jet of WD-40 liquid - so that the washed off dirt flows out. Then I put the plunger in place, fix the dispenser on the flow meter body, check the ease of movement of the choke lever and the fuel supply to the injector line. Having collected everything as it was, I wish the client a happy journey.An hour of traveling on a rope for a fifteen-minute repair obviously discouraged him, but nevertheless he leaves happy ...
Dispenser-distributor of the KE-Jetronic system with an air flow meter: 1 - electro-hydraulic fuel pressure regulator; 2 - dispenser body; 3 - pipes for supplying fuel to the injectors; 4 - valves; 5 - flow meter pressure flap; 6 - damper lever; 7 - plunger.
There are in the mechanical injection of "Mercedes", "Audi", "Ford" and "Volkswagen" and other, just as easily eliminated problems associated with long-term operation. For example, passing instrumental control on an 8-10-year-old car with the “KE-Jetronic” system, they suddenly discover a monstrous (up to 10%!) Concentration of CO in the exhaust gases. But this is only at medium revs, at idle everything is fine - 0.5%. Not understanding the cause of the malfunction, most of the "masters" act according to the usual algorithm - they turn the screw for adjusting the quality of the mixture, which limits the stroke of the flow meter lever. At the same time, the CO content practically does not fall and black smoke still pours out of the pipe during gas blowing.
And the fault is the electro-hydraulic fuel pressure regulator, screwed to the side of the metering distributor. Over time, its energy-absorbing plate loses its elasticity and the factory calibration is violated. If a large company service detects a malfunction, it will most likely offer to write or order a new regulator for $ 200-300. And to cure your own is as easy as shelling pears, if, of course, you know how.
We turn off the fuel pump and, letting the engine run for a few seconds, release the pressure in the supply line. Remove the regulator from the dispenser and unscrew the plug on its attachment wall - under it is an adjusting screw with an internal hexagon (see photo). As a rule, it is required to tighten it no more than 1/6 of a turn, however, the adjustment may have to be repeated 2-3 times, checking the CO content while the motor is running. With the restored purity of the exhaust, the fuel consumption will return to normal - the owner, already accustomed to the gluttony of the car, will suddenly find that after a trip to the country house, she does not ask, as usual, to refuel - the pointer arrow is still looming and looming somewhere in the middle of the scale ...
Here's another mechanical injection trick. On "Audi" and BMW, in contrast to "Mercedes", flow meters are used not with a falling, but an upward flow. For this reason, the operation of the engine without the air intake cover is impossible - due to the lack of vacuum, the flap will remain stationary, which means that the metering unit will not open the way for the fuel. Moreover, the slightest leakage of the intake tract dramatically depletes the mixture, up to a complete stop of the engine. I remember the cases when the repair took half a minute - this was enough to tightly put on the pipe and tighten the clamp.
And further. Many people forget that the metering-distributor works only at a certain pressure difference at the inlet and outlet, therefore, such an imperceptible defect from the outside, such as the stratification of the old fuel drain hose into the tank (“return line”), leads to engine shutdown. The inner rubber layer blocks the hose lumen, the pressure at the dispenser outlet rises, and the plunger blocks the fuel passage to the injectors. It happens that the would-be mechanic beats for hours: the pump is working, the pressure is normal, the flow meter lever is running like clockwork, and the nozzles are dry ... You ask him, they say, you tried to blow into the return line - maybe it is clogged? He does not understand: what does it have to do with it.
Yes, and modern electronic injection systems sometimes manage to be established in a couple of minutes without any spare parts - even after experienced professionals have suffered with them to no avail. Somehow an acquaintance from a competing company called me: help, they say, start the car, otherwise the client is ashamed. As it turned out, the BMW-520 engine with the Motronic system spent a whole month undergoing overhaul, where the car calmly arrived on its own, and now, for the third day, they are trying to initiate consultations of locksmiths.
Video (click to play).
I scrutinize everything that was disassembled before removing the unit.The engine is clean, the electrics are installed flawlessly, the sensors are in good order, the pump is working, there is a spark ... And then it dawned on me - after all, the pressure regulator on the fuel rail had been lying somewhere on a shelf completely dry all month - it could easily have sour in the closed position! How to stir it up? "Come on, give me an installation for flushing nozzles!" I connect the device to the ramp, turn on the pressure as much as 9 atmospheres - almost three times more than the standard pump gives, and I command: "Start!" The motor instantly comes to life and works as if nothing had happened. That's it! The machine must be studied, and not only the nuts must be turned in it!
