The only difference from the video: for pressing out, you need a pipe with a diameter larger than your silent block.
The process will proceed exactly as in the video above. The main thing is to correctly orient the "Lancer 9" silent block into the landing hole of the lever.
Poor planting of the silencer dramatically reduces its working life.
First, reinstall the arm by securing it with the rear and front bolts. Then we insert and fix the finger, as well as the stabilizer. We tighten, but do not tighten the nuts.
We end up putting on the wheels, tightening the nuts and setting the car down. Replacement of silent blocks for "Lancer 9" has come to an end.
The main reason is that the Lancer 9's suspension assumes the working position when the machine is on the ground (or even better loaded). When the car is in the air, the suspension parts are at a different angle to each other. In this case, at the moment when the car assumes a "working" position and drives, the suspension units (in our case, silent blocks) will begin to experience an additional load. It turns out that the silent is twisted inside the metal clip. This will lead to the emergence of unaccounted for internal stresses, which will significantly reduce its resource.
It's always better to see it once, so watch this video so that you probably won't have any questions about replacing the front silent blocks in Mitsubishi Lancer 9:
