Manual transmission bmw do-it-yourself repair

The transmission unit contains a gearshift mechanism in its unit. The BMW manual transmission is the main component of the entire vehicle assembly. It is with the help of the gearbox that the torque changes during movement. The manual transmission must be in good working order; for this, diagnostics should be carried out in a timely manner and, if possible, cleaned from dirt and dust that has got there.

Today the BMW car is produced in several modifications with an automatic transmission, manual transmission, variator. The automatic transmission has become very famous for its comfortable driving in the city, but the classics tend to lean more towards mechanics. When repairing, the work in a car service for these 2 types of boxes is very different, hence the difference in pricing policy.

When driving a BMW car, you can easily understand that there are difficulties with a manual transmission:

1. To switch from 1 gear to another, the lever works with difficulty. Effort must be made to switch from speed II to speed III.

And also the lever can jam.

Reason: seldom when the box is guilty with such identified problems. Often it's a grip. Check for the presence of lubricant. It may not be there - the grease dries up. At high temperatures, it has a short lifespan and simply evaporates. Because of this, other signs of breakdown may also come to light:

1. The main disc moves with difficulty on the gearbox input screw (grinding).
2. Lateral beating appears, 1 side skew is felt.
3. The appearance of air in the hydraulic line is manifested by tight pressing on the clutch pedal, as well as tight downshifting to 1 or engaging 1st gear.
4. Bearing problems also cause hard clutch pedal depression. The first gear is practically not included.
5. Deformation of the main disk. The clutch pedal is not depressed or not felt when the pedal is released.

If problems are identified, you should immediately go to the professional technicians of specialized BMW service. A safer option would be to call a tow truck.

1. Diagnostics of a malfunction of a manual transmission on a BMW:

• With difficulty, the gear knob enters the desired speed puzzle.
• When installing the rubber boot on the gear knob, it is not installed correctly (high-low). From this comes difficult switching, which interferes with driving on the road.
• The installed soundproofing can be installed incorrectly (this often happens after a trip to a private workshop "crooked handles"). With such a problem, the sounds of BMW are very audible, namely: the operation of the chassis, gearbox, brake unit. Listening, you may notice strange noises and knocks (this is normal operation).
• The main cause of a manual transmission malfunction may be not only dry oil, but also after that moisture that has got into the transmission system.

Ways to eliminate the causes of the breakdown of a manual gearbox on a BMW.

In the case of a timely appeal to the specialists of the car service, when the system has not yet clogged up, and the lubricant is dry, then after removing the remnants of the old oil, the system in the gearbox is lubricated with a completely new heat-resistant agent that can withstand any temperature drops. At the same time, the bearing and the screw with the central (travel) disc are very carefully lubricated.

To identify the cause yourself, with the engine running in idle mode, press the leftmost pedal. Without releasing it, try to engage 1st gear. This should be done slowly and very carefully.When you reach the point where the lever starts to move tight, turn off the engine. Thereafter:

1. The first gear is included with ease. There is no tension in the hand when engaging the gear. So the problem is in the clutch.

When the engine is off, there is no indicator of the revolutions of the power unit, there is no torque. Motor and transmission are not combined into a single system.

With such indicators, the lubricant and the driven disc completely change.

1. If, after the BMW engine is turned off, the lever does not want to move easily to the I speed position, the problem is in the gearbox.

It is necessary to carry out a full check of the manual transmission at a BMW service station. In addition to changing the oil, some deformed parts will need to be replaced. Their name is specified by the masters conducting the survey.

With all your desire to conduct an independent examination of the manual transmission, disassembling it into small parts, this is not worth doing. Each piece is installed in a specific position, and the offset is 1 mm. can destroy the entire vehicle system. With an independent superficial examination and diagnosis of the car, identified problems, you should immediately contact a professional BMW repair technician.

Everything about BMW 5 Series repair with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with photos, error codes and decoding in Russian, electrical diagrams.

Many connoisseurs of the famous BMW 5-ki with E39 body sooner or later face the problem of replacing shock absorbers and coil springs with new ones. This is primarily due to driving safety. But you should not rush to the service station right away, since the article will tell you how to do this with your own hands, without resorting to.

The braking system of a car is one of the main components of driving safety. The brakes should be revised regularly. Before we learn how to check the BMW E39 brake system ourselves, let's figure out what it consists of.

Owners of BMW E34 cars do not always enjoy a great ride in their car. The units and assemblies of these machines are not eternal, so they have to be periodically repaired. Some, noticing a minor breakdown, immediately run to various service stations, where they spend large sums of money, others try to do it on their own in their own garage. So .

Any part in the car can break down over time. Wheel bearings are no exception. Almost any owner of this car is capable of diagnosing and replacing hub bearings on a BMW in the back of E39 with his own hands.

According to the BMW E39 service manual, an oil change must be carried out either once a year or after a run of 15 thousand kilometers for gasoline engines and every 10 thousand for a diesel engine. Such recommendations are valid abroad. There is a small postscript in the manual: if the car is operated in difficult conditions, then the engine must be replaced.

Today, one of the most popular BMW models is the E39 of the fifth series. Despite the fact that it was discontinued in 2004, these cars can still be seen in large numbers on Russian roads.

The fourth generation of the fifth BMW model (E39) was equipped with three types of head units (GU) for the audio system. In the basic configuration, the GU had a radio tape recorder and a radio receiver. For the business configuration, a CD player and a radio broadcast receiver were installed. A multimedia system with navigation was installed in the BMW E39 with expensive options.

Quite often you can hear complaints from the owners of the BMW E39 model (as well as E53) that the engine starts to overheat if the air conditioner is turned on, especially in hot weather, standing in a traffic jam. This occurs for several reasons.

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency.The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during ice conditions. The ABS includes the following components: hydroelectronic.

Some vehicle owners have probably faced a situation where the car does not start, and the dashboard lights up and the starter turns the engine. There can be many reasons. The most harmless can be a malfunction of the fuel pump. He is responsible for supplying fuel from the tank to the engine. Almost everyone can check the operation of the gas pump. In this article .

Disassembled manual transmission to replace the input shaft bearing. I changed it, it remains to assemble the gearbox, but I don’t understand how to assemble it. Now all the shafts are in the crankcase and the dome is removed. can anyone come across knows?

You are so funny how you disassemble and assemble! And if it's no joke, then you can't rearrange the shafts from the crankcase, so boldly and carefully put the bell on the crankcase.

it is impossible to put on the bell because the locking lever cannot be inserted in any way, it goes away if it is inserted in advance, everything seems to be normal if its entire structure is inserted into the bell, but only in this form the bell does not close at all (((

I assembled the box just like that, we had some kind of hemorrhagic dressing, but now I don’t remember what was the matter.

everything is easy to insert it is necessary to remove the cap from the bell and remove the retainer here is the link to the assembly - topic = 101593.0 and which one the original or replacement bearing put on the primary

Yes, yes, he also wonders about the bearing, so which one did he put? my box beeps terribly)))

Yes, yes, he also wonders about the bearing, so which one did he put? my box beeps terribly)))

KoyoTRA0607, but slightly longer, by 0.75., Support or grind or grind.

There is someone who has a thread of a photo of the insides of the checkpoint of the Getrag 260.

so lay it out and I'll rip it out 4 flies out on the cold

Shocked. Have you got this discard box ready? It wouldn't hurt to wash it first.

The last photo is not dirt but a stone deposit on the rubbing surface of the synchronizers. Not peeled off. Because of it, the gears of the 2nd and 3rd gears died

Something does not look like a rubbing surface, and let it be known to you, the rubbing surface of the synchronizer is a cone, and the one in the photo just touches something else and the plaque here is not particularly scary. But if the cones of the gears are eaten or the rims of the inclusion are gnawed, yes, it must be replaced.

Something does not look like a rubbing surface, and let it be known to you, the rubbing surface of the synchronizer is a cone, and the one in the photo just touches something else and the plaque here is not particularly scary. But if the cones of the gears are eaten or the rims of the inclusion are gnawed, yes, it must be replaced.

let it be known - this plaque is only on the inner tapered diameter adjacent to the gear. if you switch the clutch very lightly on the assembled mechanism, then everything switches relatively normally, and if you switch sharply and strongly, then due to plaque, the sync sticks to the gear DEADLY and does not allow it to turn, which is why by pi. all teeth go.

If they stick together, then no matter how hard they press, they still won't trust.

why isn't it a work surface? sync is fixed on the middle (under the clutch) gear and rubs constantly against the cone of the transmission gear.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of replacing an automatic transmission with a manual transmission, you need to decide on a list of necessary spare parts. And also, with where to get these parts. There are two options: buy everything new or find a donor car, from which the gearbox with everything attached will be removed. The first option is simpler, more convenient, more reliable, but much more expensive. The second option is cheaper, if you are lucky it is quite cheap, but you will have to spend a lot of time looking for a donor. In addition, it is recommended to take everything you need from one machine, so that later there will be no problems with the compatibility of spare parts.

• Transmission.
• Flywheel with bolts.
• Drawstring with back support.
• Clutch kit.
• Box mounting bolts.
• Reducer.
• Cardan.
• Clutch cylinder for manual transmission.
• Clutch cylinder to pedal.
• Manual transmission platform with cover and handle.
• Two-pin connector for reverse sensor wire.
• Reverse sensor wire.
• Protective shield.
• Traverses (back, front).
• Brake pedals, clutch pedals.
• The bolt to which the brake and clutch pedals are attached.
• Front gearbox bearing.
• Rear crankshaft oil seal.
• Crankshaft rear oil seal cover gasket.
• Nuts for connecting the cardan-reducer, for the bolts between the box and the cardan.
• Cardan centering sleeve.
• Gasket between the gearbox and the universal joint joint.
• Manual transmission supports and nuts to them.
• Fuel hose 8mm - 3225-00053, about 1 m.
• Front brake hose - 34 32 1 159 891.
• Tube - 35 31 1 158 873.
• For the gear shift rod - an oil seal.
• Spring for the release lever.
• For the release lever - a spring, a support pin.
• For the exhaust system - nuts, gaskets.
• Brake fluid.
• Gearbox oil (approx. 2 l).
• The oil in the gearbox is also about 2 liters.
• Sealant.
• Thread lock (blue).

2. It is necessary to remove the crankcase protection.

3. Remove the steering shield for the swingarm.

3.Dismantle the exhaust pipe.

4. Remove the heat shield located under the gimbal.

5. Unscrew the suspension support fasteners.

6. Disconnect the universal joint from the gearbox flange.

7. Remove the universal joint, having previously unscrewed the bolts of the elastic coupling.

8. Unscrew the front transaxle cross member.

9. Disconnect the selector cable and transmission oil cooling pipes.

10. Unscrew and lower down the rear cross member of the transmission.

11. Remove the plug in the flywheel housing (sump side). Remove the torque converter mounting bolts by turning the flywheel with a screwdriver.

12. Unscrew the gearbox mounting bolts (the bolts are unscrewed in the direction from top to bottom). It is clear that without the retaining bolts, the gearbox falls - this must be taken into account. It is advisable to replace the box with an assistant.

13. One more thing - when removing the automatic transmission, it is better to push the torque converter slightly, at least with the same screwdriver, but so that it does not fly off the shaft.

14. Remove the platform, the automatic transmission handle.

15. Unscrew and remove the selector together with the cable.

16. From the side of the wheel, unscrew the drive shafts and lower the drive down, pushing it out of the gearbox.

17. Disconnect the gearbox (first the rear attachment to the beam, then the front).

18. Replace the rear beam support.

19. Install and screw on the new gearbox.

20. Remove the flywheel by unscrewing all bolts.

21. Unscrew and remove the stuffing box cover, together with the stuffing box.

22. Clean the cover, replace the oil seal.

24. Attach a new rear cover gasket by lubricating the bottom with sealant.

25. Remove and screw on the mandrel.

26. Press the input shaft front bearing into the crankshaft.

27. Install the flywheel, already a manual transmission. For more secure fastening, grease the flywheel bolts with a lock. The tightening torque of the bolts is specified in the TIS for the car.

28. Install the clutch disc.

29. Screw on the clutch basket, remove the mandrel. Again, process the basket bolts with a thread lock.

30. Replace the release bearing lever support pin on the manual transmission. To do this, press out the old finger, press in a new one, install a new spring on it.

31. Install the release bearing and the lever.

32. Replace the gear selector shaft oil seal.

33. Install and secure the manual transmission.

34. Install the rear cross member, install the elastic coupling.

35. Fasten the rear stage support.

37. Attach the rear and front crossheads.

38. Pull the old centering sleeve out of the universal joint.

39. Lubricate the new bushing with transmission fluid and insert into the cardan.

40. Lubricate the universal joint joint with new grease, install the seal (new), then insert it into the rear axle flange and elastic coupling.

42. Screw on the suspension support.

43. In the car interior, remove the shield above the pedals, unscrew the brake pedal mounting bolt, then remove the locking plate, remove the rod fixing the pedal.

44 .Pull plugs out of openings for brake fluid hose to cylinder and high pressure hose.

45. Install a new brake pedal.

46. ​​Screw on the new pedals with a new mounting bolt.

47. Push the fuel hose into the upper hole so that it goes to the brake fluid reservoir, passing under the VUT.

50. Under the car - find the bottom hole under the VUT. Install a metal tube into it - brake fluid will flow through it.

51. Screw the pipe to the clutch cylinder, then screw the cylinder itself into place and put on the supply hose, putting a clamp on it.

52. Bend and secure the tube from the clutch master cylinder.

53. Screw the hose from the front brakes into the clutch slave cylinder.

54. Connect the tube and hose, secure.

55. Connect the GCC supply hose to the brake fluid reservoir.

56. Add brake fluid, bleed the system (read how to do this here).

57. In the passenger compartment - knock out the plug from the hole for the reverse wire, insert the wire into the hole, connect it to the manual transmission sensor.

58. Find the reverse gear wires in the automatic transmission wiring, solder a two-pin connector to them, connect the wire from the box.

59. Starter - open the box with the relay under the hood, replace the orange relay with jumper 61 31 1 379 817 (top row, left relay).

61. Make a cut under the clutch pedal in the shield above the pedals.

62. Reinstall the pendulum guard and crankcase protection and other details.

63. Reinstall the exhaust pipe.

BMW cars are equipped with working mechanisms, power plants, which are designed for a long working period. Car versions with automatic transmission, manual transmission have become widespread. BMW automatic transmissions have a valve body with a working life of up to 10 years. As a rule, a major overhaul of the box is required by this time period.

A number of versions of BMW cars are equipped with a transfer case. This unit includes mechanisms that affect driving efficiency. Transfer cases vary in the number of gears available. Friction clutches are installed on the gears present. The stator is designed for several years of operation. The handle on the checkpoint on the BMW provides ease of control. It can be trimmed with leather. This element is easy to dismantle and install. The transfer case for BMW ensures maximum cross-country ability on the roads.

During diagnostics, special attention should be paid to the condition of the transfer case. Its average resource reaches 75,000 km. In this case, one should not neglect visits to the TO. The valve body needs cleaning at 200,000 km. By this time, there is a problem with the solenoids.

Premature wear of the transfer case results from aggressive use of the machine.

BMW transfer case repair is necessary if:

• jerks appeared when moving;
• the dynamics of the course has worsened;
• there are characteristic bubbling knocks from the side of the transmission.

All this can be on any version of a BMW car (x1, x3, x5, etc.).