In the meantime, let's take a look at our "giblets".
As you can see from the photo, the circuit consists of two L497D1 switches from SGS-THOMSON and two powerful BU931 transistors.
When soldering, it turned out that the contacts on the module are made of aluminum and soldering their business is not for the faint of heart, so it was purchased
special flux for aluminum.
The result should be something like this.
It is advisable to conduct general tests of the device for its performance before final assembly. THE MAIN RULE WHEN CONDUCTING THE TEST: - TREAT WITH YOUR FEET IN THE SIDE OF THE EXPLOSION, THE AUTOMATIC UNDER YOURSELF TO DO NOT MELT :-)). If the device has shown its efficiency, then having coated the inner surface with auto-sealant, we produce the final assembly by tucking the wires inside the cavity so that they are not clamped by the plate to the edges of the cavity. Well, if the device does not work, then you will have to look for the malfunction more carefully. Perhaps this is a failure of electronic components, an open circuit or short circuit in the coils.
In conclusion, for the "folk crazy" I want to say that the L497D1 switch costs about 3, the BU931 transistor - about 6.
You can try to replace the transistor with the domestic KT848A, it is much cheaper, but its SIZES are impressive.
Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
In conclusion, it will be useful for experienced electricians to know that the L497D1 switch costs about $ 3, the BU931 transistor - about $ 6.
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Often, if the ignition module breaks down, the car owner immediately runs to the store and buys a new one. But, for the VAZ-2112 there is an alternative way - repair. Of course, without proper knowledge in auto electrics, it will be difficult to understand all the circuits and communications. This article will tell you as far as possible how to repair the ignition module with your own hands.
If there are problems with the operation of the ignition module, there are reasons for this. It is worth warning that during this malfunction the "Check Engine" warning lamp will not light up: engine shutdown, loss of spark, interruptions in the operation of the power unit, and more.
For diagnostics and repairs, basic knowledge is required not only in conventional electrics, but also in the principles of car electrics. Also, a successful process will require skills in using a digital multimeter.
VIDEO
The video material will tell you about the repair of the ignition module, as well as how to remove it from the car.
As it turned out, it is not so difficult to repair the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands, it is enough to have basic knowledge in electronics and be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands, the rest is a matter of technology.
In any car, including the VAZ 2112, the ignition module performs one of the main functions in the ignition system (SZ) as a whole. Thanks to this unit, the optimal start of the motor is carried out, as well as its normal operation in the future. You can learn more about device malfunctions, as well as its replacement, from this material.
Before we talk about testing and replacing the MZ in our VAZ 2111, let's figure out the basic information. First, we suggest finding out what the 2111 ignition module is and where it is located.
As mentioned above, the MZ is one of the main devices in the ignition system. Of course, if you think about it, then all the components of the system are very important, since the quality of the power unit as a whole depends on them. But if this unit starts to work intermittently, then at least two cylinders, or even all four, will stop working in the engine. This is due to the fact that the module itself consists of two coils, with one of them supplying current to the first and fourth cylinders, and the second to the second and third. Accordingly, if one coil fails, it will lead to the fact that two cylinders will be inoperative, which will affect the operation of the motor as a whole.
The purpose of this device is that it converts the voltage supplied from the chopper into a high voltage signal. This impulse is accordingly applied to the cylinder plugs in a specific order. It is used to ignite the combustible mixture in the cylinders of the engine, which contributes to its normal starting and operation.
As for the location, it is not difficult to find the VAZ 2112 16 valve ignition module, it is located in the engine compartment. Open the hood and look at the spark plugs - they connect high voltage wires that go directly from the module itself. The MZ itself is a small black square box, so you cannot confuse it with anything else.
Only diagnostics will allow you to accurately determine the malfunction of the module, but there are indirect signs that can inform the car owner about a problem in the operation of the device.
In the event of a malfunction of the MH, an error is displayed on the dashboard.
So, in what cases is it necessary to replace or repair the VAZ ignition module:
Starting the powertrain has become more difficult. The driver now needs to turn the starter more to start the engine.
Engine idling has become erratic. The motor can be triple, while the speed can increase and decrease.
The power of the power unit has generally decreased. When you press the accelerator pedal, the car needs more time to accelerate. This symptom is especially evident when moving uphill. Also, when you press the gas pedal, dips can be observed - the driver presses on the gas, but there is no effect from this.
Fuel consumption has increased. Of course, it will be problematic to determine such a malfunction without a fuel consumption meter. But if you are used to refueling a certain amount of fuel for a certain mileage, then you can also recognize this sign (the author of the video is the Auto_Repair channel).
All these symptoms, as mentioned above, are indirect, since they can also appear with other malfunctions. For example, if the fuel filter is clogged or its service life has come to an end. Also, such signs appear as a result of wear on spark plugs or high-voltage wires. Therefore, if you are faced with such a problem, then first of all you should diagnose the condition of the spark plugs, make sure that there is no carbon deposits on them, and also check the armored wires. It happens that one of the wires is simply poorly connected to the candle, or it is broken or worn out.
There are several options for checking the device with your own hands at home, let's consider the simplest one.
To make an independent diagnosis, you need to know what the wires connected to the module are responsible for:
red-blue - provides 12-volt power to the device;
the brown wire is a mass, it is usually connected to the car body;
white-blue - connects to the spark plugs of the first and fourth cylinders;
the red-gray wire connects to the spark plugs of the second and third cylinders.
First, you need to check with your own hands that all pulses are supplied to the 2112 ignition device:
First of all, you need to turn off the ignition and disconnect the connector.
Further, the key in the lock must be set to position I.
Now you need a dial-up voltmeter, it must be connected to the negative terminal of the battery.
With the second probe, that is, a plus, you need to find the 12-volt contact on the connector.
When connected to a control contact, the arrow on the tester will show almost 0.
If the starter unit starts to work, the parameters may increase, but at the same time they will be no more than 0.7 volts. Note that the voltage level must be the same on both control pins.
There is another check option - you can diagnose the module's performance using a dial-up ohmmeter. In this case, it is a pointer tester that is meant, and not a digital one. First, you need to connect the device probes to pins 1 and 4 of the module, and then to pins 2 and 3. In the end, the diagnostics should show the same result.
Please note that depending on the manufacturer, these parameters may differ:
for devices manufactured by ATE-2 with the number 3705010-02, this parameter should be about 5-6 kΩ;
for SOATE modules with the number 3705010-12, the diagnostics should show 12 kOhm.
If the obtained indicators differ from those described above, then the module must be replaced. Please note that the inductance of the coils installed inside the MV is quite high, respectively, by connecting an ohmmeter, a spark can slip through. Therefore, when diagnosing, we strongly do not recommend touching the leads of the probes at the same time (the author of the video is an HF Autoelectrician).
If checking the VAZ 2112 ignition module showed that the device needs to be replaced, then you can change the MZ with your own hands.
The replacement process looks like this:
The cost of the device directly depends on the manufacturer. For example, the price for a new MZ from the manufacturer SOATE is about 1,700 rubles. From the manufacturer BOSH the module will cost around 2 thousand rubles, and from General Motors - about 5 thousand rubles.
Important recommendations and features of diagnostics of MH in VAZ 2112 cars are shown in the video below (the author is the AutoElectrics Diary channel).
During the operation of the VAZ-21102 car, after 15,000 km of run, an unusual malfunction appeared: from time to time, high voltage disappeared on 2 and 3 cylinders. All suspicions immediately fell on the ignition module (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1. External view of the ignition module 2112-3705010-02
When examining the module with the engine running, it was noticed that if you press on the aluminum plate on the back of the module, the engine starts to work normally. It would seem that everything is clear, and it is necessary to purchase a new ignition module, but the price “bites” painfully. It was decided to open the faulty module and study the material part of the “miracle” of our car industry. Bend the aluminum plate using a flat screwdriver (fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Opening the ignition module
Rice. 3. External view of the opened ignition module
What do we see there? A small printed circuit board with elements (Fig. 3). It is covered with a thick layer of transparent silicone, which must be carefully removed to access the elements. The connecting wires between the board and the module's contact pads are made of aluminum. “So this is where my death lurked. “- these wires are rather flimsy and it seems that one of them could not stand the shaking of the Russian autobahns and was cut off.
But this is no longer important, because when opening, we tear off all the wires from all contacts and change them to new ones (better than the MGTF brand).
Let's take a closer look at the active elements of the module.
Rice. 4. Appearance of the printed circuit board of the ignition module
As seen from Fig. 4, the circuit consists of two switches of the L497D1 type and two power transistors of the BU931 type.
Let's start restoring connections. When soldering, it turned out that the contacts on the module are made of aluminum and cannot be soldered with ordinary flux, so you have to purchase a special flux for aluminum.
Rice. 5. Purpose of contacts of the ignition module
When restoring a module, it is advisable to observe the following technology:
1. First, we solder the wires to the board.Moreover, it is necessary to remove the remnants of old wires from the board.
Soldering the wires to the collectors of the transistors caused particular difficulty. They are covered with metal, which is difficult to solder. The bur-machine helped to remove the plaque of this metal down to the copper base, but that's not all. When touched with a soldering iron, its heat was instantly dissipated on the aluminum heat sink plate. In order to properly solder, I had to put the entire plate on the electric stove and heat it up to about 180 degrees. To do without the stove, you can use a 80.100 W soldering iron.
2. We solder the wires of the board to the corresponding contacts inside the module, trying to make them as short as possible.
3. We cover the soldering points with some kind of varnish (if there is no technical varnish, nail varnish is also suitable, it is only important that the spouse does not notice this).
Rice. 6. Appearance of the repaired module
The result should be a structure as in fig. 6.
Before final assembly, it is advisable to carry out general tests of the device for its operability. If the device works, then having coated the inner surface with automotive sealant, we perform the final assembly, tucking the wires inside the cavity so that they are not clamped by the plate at the edges. Well, if the device does not work, then you will have to look for the malfunction more carefully. Perhaps this is a failure of electronic components (especially output transistors), an open circuit or short circuit in the coils. In conclusion, I would like to say about the price of spare parts for the “folk crazy people”. The L497D1 switch costs about $ 3, and the BU931 transistor costs about $ 6.
You can try to replace the transistors with cheap domestic ones such as KT848A, but their dimensions are impressive and, if replaced, you will have to puzzle over their installation inside the module case.
sergey / 04/27/2012 - 15:57
sergey / 04/27/2012 - 15:55
master / 03/29/2012 - 13:27
You can leave your comment, opinion or question on the above material:
Before talking directly about the restoration of ignition modules installed on the VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2114, etc., it makes sense to recall the principle of operation of the ignition system used on these car models.
Traditionally, in the ignition systems of these vehicles, modules are installed, consisting of a two-channel electronic switch designed to control two ignition coils. As for the controller itself, it controls the ignition based on information about the current operating mode of the engine received from the corresponding group of sensors. Due to the fact that the engine cylinders are combined in pairs (1-4 and 2-3), the formation of a spark is created in two cylinders at the same time: in the cylinder at the compression stage - a working spark, and in a cylinder with an exhaust stroke - an idle spark. Below is a typical diagram of the VAZ 2110 ignition module, where the + 12V supply voltage is applied to the D contact, and the control signals from the controller are supplied to the A and B contacts.
Special mention should be made of typical failures of the ignition module, which can manifest itself in a drop in engine speed when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply, general power loss, twitching of the car during acceleration, etc. As a preliminary diagnosis of the ignition module, a number of simple checks can be performed:
unscrew and inspect the candles - if the ignition module (MZ) provides a low sparking power, then there will be black carbon deposits on the candles;
disconnect the high-voltage wires from the МЗ and using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between the 1st and 2nd, 3rd, 4th terminals of the module. The readings should be in the range of 5.5 - 6.5 Kom. Too low resistance may indicate a short circuit in the secondary winding.
With this and other malfunctions, the ignition module must be replaced, however, practice shows that, in many cases, this far from the cheapest unit can be successfully repaired.To repair the ignition module, you must perform the following technological operations.
First of all, the aluminum plate located on the back of the module must be removed from the module. This can be done using a regular screwdriver, after holding the module in a vice. As a rule, the plate comes off without much effort. Along with it, rather weak wires connecting the transformer to the internal connector also come off (by the way, the low reliability of soldering these wires is the reason for most of the module's failures). Please note that some of the internal connections on the board are also made with very thin wires and you should be careful not to break them.
The internal volume of the module is filled with a jelly-like sealant, which can be easily removed with a brush with sufficiently stiff bristles. On the board itself, the main elements are clearly visible, namely two transistors, two switching microcircuits, as well as several resistors and capacitors.
As already mentioned above, most often breaks in the connecting wires between the module board and its case lead to a malfunction of the MH, respectively, and the repair will consist in restoring all electrical connections (with replacing the wires with more reliable ones).
It should be borne in mind that the internal contacts of the MZ are made of aluminum, therefore, to solder them, you should take care of the presence of a special flux in advance. A certain difficulty is soldering wires to the terminals of the transistors (the plate dissipates the heat of the soldering iron).
Be that as it may, but with some diligence and patience, soldering is quite possible and it is performed as follows:
First of all, the new wires are soldered to the board. It is better to completely remove old wiring. To facilitate soldering (excluding heat dissipation), the plate can be heated on an electric stove;
At the second stage, we solder the wires to the contacts of the module itself, trying to keep the connecting wires as short as possible;
We cover the soldering points with technical varnish;
After the varnish has dried, we check the repaired module for operability;
If the work of the MH does not cause any complaints, carefully fill the connecting wires inside its body and fasten the two halves of the device with ordinary sealant.
The ignition module repaired in this way is able to work for a very long time.
Repair of the ignition module
If you have an incredible amount of dead ignition modules in the corner of your workshop and you have a free evening, you can try to restore several copies at least in order not to spend money on a “replacement fund”. For this, the "corpses" must be sorted. That is, put the modules in one pile, presumably with interturn short circuits, they will be “donors” of control boards, in another - respectively, presumably with faulty boards, you can take coils from them. If there are few modules, then the electronics board can be restored.
This is followed by a stage of preliminary thorough preparation. We will need:
1. Flat screwdriver - break the module.
Opening the "patient" does not cause any special problems - you just need to pry the aluminum plate with a sharp screwdriver and remove it, tearing off, of course, all the conductors connecting the switch board with the outside world. Next, the most enjoyable part of the job is cleaning the board from transparent silicone and sealant. After this procedure, you will see the entire rich inner world of the switch in all its glory - that is, two completely identical control channels, consisting of the L497D1 switch (SO16, SGS Thomson) and the BU931R output transistor (crystal, SGS Thomson). The signal from the ECU goes to the switch through a transistor, from which only one transition is used, that is, as a diode.
We still have coils left.If you have the appropriate measuring equipment at hand, it will be quite good to check the coils for open-circuit (quite simple) and for turn-to-turn circuit. Defective coils can be safely thrown away - they can no longer be useful anywhere on the farm, due to their complete indivisibility. Broken conductors must be removed completely, and the places where they were welded must be prepared for soldering. If there is a flux for aluminum, you can try to solder with it, if not, treat the pads with a drill to copper. The entire switch board has an excellent heat sink, so before soldering, the plate must be heated to a temperature of 150-180 degrees, otherwise it will be almost impossible to reliably solder the conductors. The soldering points must be covered with some kind of varnish to avoid corrosion. Having finished soldering the conductors, we get (hopefully) a working MH. It's a good idea to test it on the bench before final assembly.
If the MV still does not work, then the switch board needs to be repaired (if, of course, you have known good coils). It is necessary to check the signal flow from input to output. L497D1, if a replacement is required, costs about $ 3, BU931 - about $ 6. but it is impractical to try to change a powerful transistor in the “on-crystal” version, and there is practically no point in changing it on the case one - it will be difficult to provide good cooling and this MH will still burn out a little later. For those versed in electronics, a diagram of the MH switch is shown. True, I warn you right away - it is not known from which of the many options.
If, as a result of the research, a working switch board remains without a suitable pair of coils, do not despair, on its basis you can make an excellent ignition coil tester. You just need to make a small variable frequency generator and arrange the product in a beautiful box. Now you can check the coils from GAZ and VAZ (as you know, all “new” models VAZ 21114, 21124, 11183, 11193 are equipped with coils or individual coils on a candle.)
Let me remind you once again that everything that is described above concerns the "old" model of the Ministry of Health, produced before 2003. from 09.2003 they were replaced by another circuitry module (see the photo on the left. You can enlarge it by double-clicking the mouse.). In this modification, only one L497 microcircuit is used, working on both channels at once. To control the channel selection, the HCC4001B microcircuit is used, which is 4 elements 2 AND NOT. This module has inherited all the childhood diseases of its predecessor - low reliability and a wide range of parameters.
The MV coil (there are two of them in the module) is a conventional step-up transformer. Below in the photo you can see its design.
is it possible to repair the module 2112 and if yes then how and then it is expensive to buy
vryat whether it can be repaired, Toko replacement. Look in the selling section. I can change someone who will add something
I do not recommend repairing. For you need to be an electrician to understand this "crap". I had problems with the ignition module. I changed immediately! Didn't even try to conjure over him.
It is possible and necessary to repair, Google will tell you how.
It is possible and necessary to repair, Google will tell you how.
Well, you know, God forbid that it is not right to "pick". Okay, if it was a “standalone” part. Brrr. Although it's his business. My only option is replacement. Although if a person has experience with this kind of technique, let it be. Automobile God to help him!
is it possible to repair the module 2112 and if yes then how and then it is expensive to buy
Guys, thanks for the participation of the topic, is that what I dug on the Internet lerus.php? Id = 65
Good luck with the repair! Unsubscribe how you will do everything! It’s very interesting whether it worked or not!
Kokda cat has nothing to do, he chases fleas. You can read ent / ign_repair /
it's not a fact, modern spare parts are far inferior in quality to the old ones, but about the cat, you're wrong
Everything is correct, it can and should be repaired, 90% that it did not burn out, but simply broke off inside the wiring, which are made of tin and can hardly hold. as a rule, because of this, they fail.
nice to talk to the pros and when they are cultural
it's not a fact modern spare parts are far inferior in quality to old ones
Video (click to play).
+100. I am also often convinced of this, right now there is just a lot of marriage
