DIY motorcycle ant repair

In detail: DIY motorcycle ant repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

It's no secret that the engineers of the Tula plant have created equipment with which an ordinary owner has to feel like a mechanic. So to this day, having found another problem, the owner of the Ant has to pick up the tool, remembering the would-be engineers. One of the main problems is the motor scooter Ant, which is repaired in most cases of breakdowns.

However, not only the engine can make the motorcycle enthusiast visually see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is dynastarter malfunctions... It, the engineers of the Tula plant, installed it in Ant, instead of the usual alternator.

Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the dashboard while the moped is running, then you are running out of charging. This is because the generator is not producing alternating current. To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay-regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly with the dynastarter. It can have three main causes of problems:

difficulty in the operation of the rotor (dirt or dust accumulation in the collector);
hanging or wear of the brushes;
violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.

Since in most cases the work of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped's manual. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate rubbing parts and in no case throw parts away.

Video (click to play).

Unlike the dynastarter, it is difficult to repair the motor scooter Ant with your own hands according to the operation book. Therefore, it is worth referring to the advice of experienced motorcycle owners. Most often, the engine has to be disassembled in case of malfunctions of the clutch mechanisms, the operation of the gearbox, as well as wear of the crankshaft, bearings or oil seals. The most important rule is not to be afraid to disassemble the engine yourself. Using these instructions, disassembly and assembly of the motor scooter Ant will not be difficult.

So, the procedure for disassembling the engine:

First, prepare your workplace. If you want to achieve correct and trouble-free operation, keep all parts clean and tidy. Remember and complete the disassembly procedure.

How to assemble the engine of the Ant motor scooter can be seen in more detail in the visual video at the end of the article. The essence of the assembly is in the reverse order, but it is important to tighten the parts with a certain effort and synchronize the parts with the marks. Under no circumstances should you assemble an engine without detailed instructions written by the manufacturer.

With frequent breakdowns, the owners think about what kind of engine can be put on the Ant motor scooter. Instead of a native motor, you can use chinese analog motors... Since the Ant has many copies in Asian countries, replacing the engine can be a great option to save money in the event of irreversible damage. True, you will have to make the fasteners yourself and, in some cases, remake the bridge for the left chain location. This is not very difficult, given that the Tula plant provided for the possibility of rearranging the bridge.

Just a couple of months ago, an old client asked to capitalize the engine of his "Ant" for the season. He is not greedy for money - he promised to buy everything that is needed for repairs.We agreed, the client pulled the engine off the frame and brought it back for repair. After disassembly, an unpleasant picture emerged: the piston, crankshaft, motor chain and almost all bearings were worn out.

The customer insisted on buying a new crankshaft. They are now in abundance in any store - I don’t want to take them, but they still have the same quality ... For a long time I resisted and eventually the client found a used engine from which I pulled the crankshaft. Of course, it was slightly podushatan, but the bearing of the lower connecting rod head was intact and safe, and we didn't need more.

Large flat screwdriver
Heads for 14, 17, 22
Pliers
Clutch basket puller
Sealant
Wish

Before installing the crankshaft, it is advisable to check it for runout. And it doesn't matter whether a new crankshaft or a used one, you need to check it otherwise, given the current "quality" of spare parts, you can repair the engine and then suffer long and tediously with it. We put the crankshaft on the prisms and check the runout, the norm: no more than 0.03 mm. If you don't have an indicator, take the crankshaft to a good turner

In most cases, the right main bearing of the crankshaft, due to an assembly error, fails almost in the first season after repair. The engine that we are now repairing with you is no exception. The bearing has practically crumbled and in any case needs to be replaced with a new one.

The error lies in the fact that when installing the flange on which the dinostarter stator is attached, the oil channel through which the grease flows to the main bearing and the oil seal is smeared.

In order for the main bearing to leave at least several seasons - cut the gasket under the flange a little along the contour of the oil channel and when you put the flange in place - do not smear anything with sealant there.

And one more thing: in order to avoid self-loosening of the bolts securing the stator flange of the dinostarter to the crankcase, and they turn off very often - apply a little thread lock to the thread. If possible, use a medium-strength lock - "blue".

I bought the main bearing like this. It's kind of like ours. There are Chinese counterparts in stores - they are more expensive, but I don't know how they are in terms of quality ... I try to take, albeit not such a super-duper quality, but at least proven over the years.

The quality of the workmanship is such that there is essentially nothing to complain about. The price is quite lifting - 350 rubles.

Press the inner race of the main bearing onto the right trunnion of the crankshaft. Outside - we fasten the dinostarter stator flange and press it into the crankcase until it rests against the flange.

We install an oil seal, a circlip and a main bearing in the left half of the crankcase. I put a new main bearing. It is closed, but it doesn't matter: we open it, wash out the factory grease and install it in the crankcase.

Lubricate all bearings and oil seals with clean engine oil. And very carefully so as not to accidentally wrap the lip of the oil seal - insert the crankshaft into the left half of the crankcase, assemble the gearbox and knock out the crankcase guides by 5-6mm.

Degrease the crankcase connector, put in a new gasket and install the other half of the crankcase.

We tighten the bolts and immediately, so that nothing gets into the crankcase, we put the piston. I am installing a new piston, cylinder head and petal valve body. Piston like everything else - don't understand whose production - most likely Rostov, but clearly not Chinese. I didn’t want to get involved with this counterfeit, but the owner didn’t want to wait for the cylinder to be bored and put the foot in the cylinder head and insisted on buying it. You see the prices for spare parts - to contact or not to contact this remake is up to you.

We install the second main bearing in the crankcase and fix it with a retaining ring.

Several "Ants" with a torn off flange of the dinostarter stator have already passed through my hands.To avoid this trouble, I screw the stator onto good bolts with a grover: for an internal hexagon + I apply a "blue" thread lock on the thread. If your motor is converted to magneto, then just don't put the stator so it will be more reliable.

Recently I came across a miracle of Soviet technology called "ant motor scooter" for repairs. The engine of this "ant" showed no signs of life. Therefore, I did not even bother with its diagnostics, and immediately proceeded to overhaul, which I began with its complete disassembly. Moreover, its owner asked to do everything at the highest level, and the highest level of repair implies a complete analysis of the engine, followed by troubleshooting of all components and mechanisms (in my understanding, of course).

Here is such a wow, we will have a copy on the menu today, it is "otkolhozny" in moderation, which of course pleases.

We remove the engine and put it on some kind of table, not forgetting to first drain the oil from it.

We remove the cooling casings and the dynastarter, how it is done is described in detail in the article: Repair of the dynastarter of the Ant motor scooter

Unbend the lock washer, unscrew the nut, and remove the final drive sprocket.

We turn the engine over, unscrew the bolts on the clutch cover, tap the cover with a mallet on all sides, and remove it from the engine.

We take out the shaft of the kickstarter mechanism from the crankcase.

The motor chain is too stretched and must be replaced.

We unscrew the shaped nuts on the clutch pressure plate.

We remove several clutch discs, put a puller on the inner drum, unbend the lock washer, hold the drum with the puller and unscrew the nut (right thread). Such a puller is easy to make yourself - for this you just need to take an old clutch disc and "weld" a small tire to it, in general, you will understand everything from the photo.

We unbend the lock washer on the crankshaft trunnion and unscrew the nut (right thread), on this engine the nut was not clamped and was easily unscrewed with your fingers.

Remove the basket with the chain and sprocket, then remove the adjusting washer and the sleeve of the outer drum of the clutch basket.

We take out the first clutch rod from the secondary shaft, then turn the engine over and shake out the ball and the second clutch rod.

We unscrew the four nuts and remove the cylinder head.

Pay attention to what severe seizures on the cylinder mirror, this was due to driving on pure gasoline. The cylinder must be bored, there is no way without it.

Remove the cylinder, use round-nose pliers to remove the piston pin retaining ring and push the piston pin out.

The bushing of the upper connecting rod head was subjected to "collective farm tuning", but for us this is not a problem, we will put a new one. You will find all the details on replacing the bushing in the article: Replacing the connecting rod bushing of the motorcycle "Izh-planet", "Jupiter", "Ant"

We unscrew the crankcase tightening bolts (marked with arrows). If you are having difficulty unscrewing the bolts, try unscrewing them with an impact screwdriver, in such cases it helps a lot.

We turn the engine over, take the mallet and evenly tap the engine from everyone until the halves of the crankcase completely disperse.

We take out the box, hold the engine on weight and knock out the crankshaft with a mallet.

Read also: DIY attic repair

And now admire what kind of dirt in this engine, which gobbled up all the edges of the oil seals and bearings, where it was started with such leaky oil seals. On the inner surface of the crank chamber, a scuff is even visible (marked with an arrow), probably the bird got into the engine during takeoff.

Another important point: People unfamiliar with the technique, repairing their "ants" for nothing, constantly make the same mistake: they cover the oil channel with a gasket or sealant with sealant through which the grease gets to the right main bearing of the crankshaft and the oil seal, which ultimately leads to to the destruction of these parts.

An example where the channel was blocked with a gasket:

An example where the channel was sealed with a sealant:

Broken main bearing rollers.

All these malfunctions are the result of unqualified repairs, so when reassembling the engine, pay special attention to this point, reassembling the engine is described in detail in the article: Repair of the engine of the "Ant" scooter

Wow, what a rarity, where did they dig it up. Are they still producing spare parts for such Soviet stools?
And what is the maximum speed of this rarity? A voluminous Chinese man can easily overtake this ant.

Eugene, not so long ago we had these "motor boats" in the "collective farm" were "like uncut pigs." Now there are about ten left. There are spare parts, of course, but the quality does not always correspond to my ideas. Maximum speed, I think 70 km / h will go, if only from some mountain. The Chinese man accordingly bypasses him as "standing".

Excellent information. It has been very helpful. Thank you.

Martin, always glad to see you on our site.

what what! What is he for racing! Why should he pull speed!

So this is at full throttle, and so, its cruising speed is 40-45 km / h.

Thank you very much for the material.

Hello! Can you tell me what bearings go to this engine? If you change everything. And thanks for the article, very useful information!

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Hello everyone!
I recently acquired an iron assistant.
I consulted with the editor and decided to create a topic for discussion of scooters.

I want to put an 11-tooth sprocket on the engine.
Now I have 17 teeth, it pulls well, but it is hard for it on soft ground.

if you put a little zviozochka on 11 teeth, you can plow it like this, I did a mini tractor

Without an ant as without hands. A very useful technique. This little workaholic maintains the floor of the farm.

Choosing the right decision comes with experience; experience comes with every wrong choice.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/967/blog/82877/kak-zhit-dolgo-i-schastlivo-vot-vam-otvet-20.

if you put a little zviozochka on 11 teeth, you can plow it like this, I did a mini tractor

So that's good. To plow it to MTZ, but I need traction, not speed.

Without an ant as without hands. A very useful technique. This little workaholic maintains the floor of the farm.

Yes, a useful thing. Very helpful. And economical too.

I made myself a jammer on the steering wheel. It's very convenient, you don't have to bend down every time to drown out.

I want to put an 11-tooth sprocket on the engine.
Now I have 17 teeth, it pulls well, but it is hard for it on soft ground.

11 teeth is too small, you get a slow speed and a large load on the chain,
optimum 14 teeth.

And I do not plan to participate in the races. The slug is fine with me. The back one is 25g, for many it is 27g, it can work out fine.

It's amazing how the stars manage to lose weight quickly. In fact, not everything is so complicated, but in an interview with Polina Gagarina he told how she managed to go without diets and argued, here is a link to that interview - - very simple, easy and safe for the organization. According to her method, I have already dropped 7 Kg in a week!

This is not a topic for advertising.

It is generally better to drive it on asphalt and not overload. You can, of course, put the chain at 19 so that you don't have to carry a spare kilometer with you, put a magneto from the launcher, and, well, remake everything else, as everyone suffers. But all the same, for village conditions, equipment is of little use, everything is dead. with the Ural engine - this is the technique.

But still, for rural conditions, equipment is of little use, everything is dead.

You're not right. This is an irreplaceable thing for the village. With it, you can go where a car with a trailer or a tractor will not fit, load and take it out. The carrying capacity is less, so you can make two, three trips and take everything out. But there is no need to strain and carry heavy bags.

with the Ural engine - this is the technique.

Only have time to top up gasoline.

You can take it out on anything. The ant has its advantages, for example, that it is light, you can take it out of the mud on your hands. And you are wrong about the Urals. 8l. a hundred, the ant will eat no less. The dimensions are comparable, the cross-country ability is better, more reliable - the Zhiguli bridge, cardan, etc. The only thing it doesn’t tolerate is the spoked rear wheels, but it’s not a problem to replace.And what about efficiency - KamAZ is much more economical than an ant, if you count it in ton-kilometers.

and a big load on the chain,
optimum 14 teeth.

The back is 25 g., For many, 27 g.

I put it on 11 g. Rides like a tank.
Very satisfied.

And the chain can be replaced once a year.

change jupiter 2 to ant

I saw it somewhere on the net (maybe on a yu-tube) for a long time, when I was looking for homemade equipment, Ant with rear iron wheels with grousers like on a walk-behind tractor and a wider front (apparently, to make it easier in arable land) behind the plow and pulled-plowed confidently.
The local who sold me Ant said that he also plowed his little vegetable garden. only with a horse plow (in his words), and dragged a horse mower and a rake with a motor scooter on the mows. And it is on the small pinion gear. For traction.
So Ant is a rather preferred assistant in the village.

Deliver me, God, from my "friends", and I myself will somehow manage with the enemies

Mockery of technology.

[quote = Gamow Ivan] It is generally better to drive it on asphalt and not overload. You can, of course, put the chain at 19 so that you don't have to carry a spare kilometer with you, put a magneto from the launcher, and, well, remake everything else, as everyone suffers. But all the same, for village conditions, equipment is of little use, everything is dead. with a Ural engine - this is a tech
the ant goes well through the mud, and if the chains are on the wheels, then in general a tank, with chains and winter standards.

the ant goes well through the mud, and if the chains are on the wheels, then in general a tank, with chains and winter standards.

Thank you Oksana for your support. I completely agree.

Himself in the mud has not yet had time to ride (bought recently), but friends are happy.

the ant goes well through the mud, and if the chains are on the wheels, then in general a tank, with chains and winter standards.

Thank you Oksana for your support. I completely agree.

Himself in the mud has not yet had time to ride (bought recently), but friends are happy.

My father also had a goose on the farm and he rolled it for about 40 years. Not one really, but a couple of pieces. And he worked back in the 70s in the everyday life of the plant with an installed circulator instead of a body. Sawed firewood for the population. There was such a service. Magneto didn’t accept on away. It was a good technique for those times. They drove everything from the garden on it. And they carried manure around the garden, and hay, and into the forest for firewood.

Motor scooter Ant: review, advantages, disadvantages

Today, cargo scooters are not as popular and excitement here as they were during the Soviet Union. There are explanations for this: the shortage of a car at that time, a rather high price and other difficulties, gave rise to the thoughts of an ordinary rural or suburban resident about buying something alternative, unpretentious, inexpensive, and at the same time of high quality. A motorcycle with a sidecar was not very suitable for transporting goods, and this need in the countryside was of a basic nature.

The motor scooter Ant, costing 775 rubles, with its low weight and ease of maintenance, was an ideal option, and until now in Asian countries such scooters are indispensable and are in great demand.

This is how one of the first models of "Ant" looked like

Pay attention to the spare wheel mount

It cannot be called economical, a 200 cc single-cylinder two-stroke engine consumes about 8 liters of gasoline, after a slight wear of the piston group, the consumption usually reached 10 liters, but at that time it was not relevant, gasoline was very cheap and no one thought about the consumption fuel and, accordingly, economy. If you are going to buy a motor scooter Ant now (of course, with hands, new ones have not been released for a long time), be prepared for the consumption of eightieth gasoline in the region of ten liters.

The front suspension of the scooter is lever-operated, practically "indestructible".In terms of service life, in comparison with telescopic forks, it was not even close, there is practically nothing to break.

Today you can find an ant motor scooter with installed rear shock absorbers from a scooter, instead of the standard front ones, produced specifically for it.

Here the front suspension is slightly altered and borrowed from a Chinese cargo scooter

The ant motor scooter has a dry weight of 240 kg, which is much lighter than the same MT or Ural motorcycle. This is the merit of the designers, and of course the lightweight single-cylinder engine.

This advantage made it possible even for one person to throw him on his side and begin repairs. In terms of repairs, there were also a lot of advantages to replace the camera or tire, the wheel did not need boring, it was enough to unscrew the bolts around the wheel, and the rims diverged into two halves.