In detail: Ural motorcycle do-it-yourself engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Soviet heavy motorcycles Ural are a simple and unpretentious technique. You can even say reliable if you carefully monitor the motor. The boxer engine of this bike has a very primitive design, but it has a very small resource. Therefore, in order to move freely in the city and even at long distances, the engine should be regularly serviced. Below, we will tell you how to carry out troubleshooting, disassemble and replace the main elements of the engine, for the Ural models M-62, M-63, M-66, M-67, etc.
The most popular reason to repair a Ural motorcycle is considered to be insufficient motorcycle dynamics, smoke from the muffler, traction failures at high revs, and a decrease in maximum speed. The reasons that even inexperienced riders can note are the increased fuel and oil consumption. If such problems arise, it is not worth disassembling the engine right away, first you should check the ignition, then the carburetor settings, measure the compression and check the valve adjustment, and after eliminating all other problems, you should climb into the engine and repair the engine of the Ural motorcycle.
You may be interested in how to make tuning a Ural motorcycle. A detailed description of the possible directions for tuning the bike!
More experienced owners may suspect a problem from the sound of the engine. Specific noise gives rise to a number of problems that are determined with high precision.
There are also a number of reasons to repair the motor that are not related to its breakdown. For example, a motor can be sorted out during a long idle period, during restoration, after a long run, and so on.
The process of disassembling the motor is quite complicated, but it is more important that the existing clearances "go away". Thus, if the motor is disassembled and then assembled without repair, there is a high probability that there will be third-party noises associated with an increase in clearances. Therefore, experienced locksmiths advise, first of all, to assess the condition of the motor without disassembling the main elements, or to carry out a partial analysis, then carry out a troubleshooting and, based on its results, decide whether to make repairs or not.
It is possible to determine the malfunction "by ear" if:
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- The engine sounds loudly during operation, in all speed ranges, and the ringing turns partially into loud noise when the engine is warmed up and at high speeds.
Cause: piston pin wear and excessive clearance between pin and bushing.
Solution: first of all, you can set a later ignition, in some cases this either completely eliminates the noise, or it becomes insignificant, which allows you to use the motorcycle for some more time. If this does not help, then the old fingers are replaced with new ones, as well as the connecting rod bushings with their subsequent development.
The motor is ringing, tapping is slightly audible, the sound is dull, amplifying under load and at high revs.
Cause: the appearance of a gap between the pin and the piston boss.
Solution: replacement of the finger + piston set with new ones of the same group.
The motor knocks metal on metal at idle, and at high speeds there is a strong ringing and vibration.
Cause: clearance between piston and cylinder.
Solution: selection of a new piston of the next overhaul size and cylinder bore for a new piston group.
A dull knock in the crankcase area, clearly audible at idle and when the gas is dumped.
Cause: such a sound may indicate an increase in the gap between the lower connecting rod head and the crank pin of the crankshaft.
The behavior of the motorcycle reveals the following problems:
- Heavy oil consumption, loss of power and excessive exhaust fumes.
Cause: wear of piston rings.
Solution: complete replacement of piston rings, and in the presence of damage to the plane of the cylinder - its boring, with subsequent repair.
The owners of the Ural motorcycle most often face such problems. As you can see, most of the problems are diagnosed by craftsmen "by ear", and despite all the primitiveness, the result is very accurate. Assuming the problem of the motor, you should stock up on a set of necessary pullers, keys and repair parts and only then proceed to disassembly.
Repair of the Ural motorcycle should be carried out in stages. The first step is to prepare your garage and the motor itself. All dirt and oil should be washed from the engine so that they do not get inside. The laid film will help to save the garage floor, because it is easier to throw out a piece of cellophane than to remove the remaining grease from the garage floor.
Disassembly process:
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We unscrew the nuts holding the cylinder cover and remove it. Next, we unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder head, remove the rocker arms, rods into the box and pull the head off the studs.
Following this diagram, you will be able to get to the main parts of the motor in order to carry out a full diagnostics of the clearances and, if necessary, replace the parts with new ones. It is worth noting that if the part has a gap close to wear, then it is better to replace it, since most of the new parts lead to an increased load on the entire motor while running in. Such increased pressure on old components can lead to wear and tear, which means the appearance of noise.
We advise you to carry out a comprehensive renovation before the start of the season. This approach will allow you to get rid of all the problems with mismatching gaps and skate several seasons without worries. Otherwise, the motorcycle engine may break down during the high season and permanently deprive you of the ability to move on two wheels.
After the repair, the assembly should be carried out, based on the above described diagram, it is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that not only the repair itself, but also the accuracy of the assembly affects the reliability of the motor. Often, owners complain that the engine works even worse than before the repair, forgetting that the reason for this behavior of the engine was precisely poor-quality repairs.
After the engine is assembled, check the ignition adjustments, carburetor settings and valve clearances. If everything is in order, you can start the engine and make adjustments to the settings at idle and on the move. Remember to run in new parts. Correctly worn-in parts are less likely to fail over the course of the season. If everything was done correctly, then the repair of the Ural motorcycle will pleasantly surprise you, first of all, with improved acceleration, response to gas and maximum speed.
Do-it-yourself Ural motorcycle repair.How to put the camshaft and crankshaft gears on a URAL motorcycle
Often on the forums they ask the question why the Ural motorcycle does not ride after the engine bulkhead?
The motorcycle starts up, idles, but does not develop high revs and the traction is insufficient, the engine overheats. When the throttle is opened, a strong dip appears, which cannot be removed by adjusting the carburetor. If these symptoms appear in your motorcycle, then it is possible that the timing gears are incorrectly installed, and specifically, in the displacement of the marks by one tooth.
Let's try to deal with this problem. If the crankshaft or camshaft gears were removed or replaced, then there is always the possibility that when assembling the engine, they could make a mistake and install the gears not according to the marks, or the marks on the gears were packed incorrectly.
Today it is not uncommon to find timing gears on sale without alignment marks. If you got exactly these, do not worry, you can do everything right and apply the necessary marks yourself.
The first thing to do is remove the timing case cover.
Next, set the motorcycle crankshaft to TDC (top dead center). To do this, it is necessary to combine the TDC mark on the flywheel and the risk in the middle of the window in the viewing window.
In this case, the key on the crankshaft should take place to the right at 90 degrees from the top position. We mark with a felt-tip pen or pencil the tooth on the crankshaft gear opposite the key groove, we will consider it first. We start counting from it counterclockwise. On the seventh tooth, we do the risk with a file, if it is not there from the factory.
On the camshaft, the keyway in the TDC crankshaft position should be to the left at 90 degrees from the top position. In this case, the tooth of the camshaft gear, which is opposite the groove for the key, should be closest to the engine housing. We mark it with a pencil or felt-tip pen. From it, we begin to count to the left counterclockwise. We count thirteen teeth, and mark the groove immediately behind the thirteenth tooth with a file. This will be the mark on the camshaft gear.
If the marks on the motorcycle are not set correctly, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft gear using a pry bar or a puller to remove it.
Next, we install the crankshaft gear so that in the TDC position our marks on the gears coincide.
This can be done by gently tapping the gear with a hammer through the plank. Next, install the bolt with a lock washer. We carefully look so that the grooves on the stoppers coincide. We tighten the bolt, bend the stopper. We install the "gooseneck", or the engine timing cover, in place, not forgetting to combine the notch in the breather sprocket with the round key on the camshaft gear.
Before installing the timing cover, it doesn't hurt to check the condition of the oil seal pressed into the cover. Replace the oil seal if necessary.
Next, be sure to adjust the valve (set a gap of 0.05 - 0.07 mm with a probe).
Insufficient synchronization in engine operation means that one of the cylinders is showing more intensive work than the other. This can lead to the fact that the cylinder, which shows more powerful work, can very quickly wear out and fail. Do-it-yourself Ural engine repair. The timing of the carburetors is clearly visible when the motorcycle is idling. Synchronization of motorcycle carburettors occurs when the same operation of two cylinders is provided. Simply put, a motorcycle carburetor synchronizer is obtained by raising the throttle, both in the left and in the right carburetor, by switching ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the fork clearance is a fairly simple, but very important task in repair work. You can watch a video on fork repair in the Urals. In view of the fact that the wheel suspension on Dnepr motorcycles is made in the form of a telescopic fork, its correct adjustment will provide the necessary fork outreach for the normal movement of the motorcycle.Dismantling the front fork of the Dnepr motorcycle, like the Dnepr motorcycle, shows that a shock absorber is located inside the fork itself, and the distance between the upper part of the spring and the locknut is approximately 0.4 mm. The motorcycle fork is adjusted as follows: dismantle the front wheel, then unscrew the nut that secures the pipes to the motorcycle structure. We take out from this pipe ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the carburetors of the Ural and Dnepr motorcycle is not difficult, like the repair itself, but important. The brands, appearance, structure and details in motorcycles change from year to year. Including evolution affects carburetors, the constant improvement of which does not take long. I wonder where the carburetor is on the motorcycle?
The carburetor as a structural element is intended for mixing gasoline with air, as well as for the subsequent supply of an appropriate amount of it to the carburetors on the Dnepr motorcycle engine cylinder. The regulation process itself can be ... >>> Read more
During the life of the motorcycle, there is a possibility that the valves will need to be replaced. Lapping the valves in the Ural Motorcycle is an important matter. The question may arise, how to grind valves on a Dnepr motorcycle? The process of replacing the valve itself involves preliminary cleaning the cylinder head to such a state that it is possible to achieve the maximum tightness of its fit to the seat. These early tricks are essential for the correct operation of the engine.
To carry out this operation - cleaning the cylinder head, a certain algorithm of actions should be followed, step by step following it. First, the spring is put on the valve. The size of the spring is required to be able to cope with ... >>> Read more
The most important point in which the adjustment of the valves of the Dnepr motorcycle and others lies is the correct setting of the clearances. If you overdid it a little and the gap turned out to be large, then there will be a clinking at the heads, if, on the contrary, the gap turned out to be too small, then the rods may begin to bend. The adjustment of the valves on the Dnepr motorcycle should be done after each manipulation of the assembly of the cylinders and heads, which must be securely fastened and tightened. Many people ask themselves how to set the valve to ... >>> Read more
Checking the ignition system, first of all, occurs from the initial check of the breaker performance. It is important to pay attention to the operation of the incendiary advance machine, in which the presence of various complaints is undesirable. The resistance of the primary winding, which is measured by the tester, must be at least 6 ohms. Next, the secondary winding is checked, for which the tester is connected to high voltage connections. The voltage of such a winding must be exactly ... >>> Read more
Repair and adjustment of ignition on a motorcycle Dnipro
Before starting all the manipulations to adjust the candles, you should pay attention to their external condition. They must be clean, without the slightest deposit of carbon deposits. Next, we make adjustments by alternately bending or unbending the candle contacts. With these actions, we reach the desired 0.5 mm in diameter - this is exactly the gap we need.
As in the case with candles, pay attention to the state of the breaker contacts. If there is any dirt on them ... >>> Read more
As soon as you are faced with the problem of lack of charging, you should not rush to dispose of the generator. The implementation of fairly simple, but effective methods will allow you to reanimate the generator without additional financial costs. By adhering to simple rules, you can quite effectively repair the device on your own.
First of all, you will need to dismantle the generator parts and clean them of dirt... This is followed by a check of the condition of the ball-type bearings: a test for the engagement of the armature to the stator.The course of the brushes must be free in the places where the brushes are held. The next stage - the production of rings is checked ... >>> Read more
Often, watching the engine overrun by my friends, it is not uncommon for a problem situation to arise: when I have already coped with the removal of parts from the engine and all that remains is to remove the crankshaft, unfortunately, this cannot be done. In reality, it is really difficult to remove it, and especially when there is no clear idea of how to implement it. In order to avoid this kind of problem, I will try to explain how to cope with the crankshaft.
To remove the crankshaft, you will need the following:
>>> Read more
The quality of the clutch is important for a motorcycle. This will require correct adjustment of the drive train. When the drive cable is taut enough, then the slipping of the clutch will be traced, if, on the contrary, the clutch is leading.
In the event of a failure of the functioning of the starting device, as a rule, due to the breakdown of the starting spring or its exit from the place of the sleeve. In this situation, the clutch of a motorcycle Ural lever will not return automatically to its initial position, however, it can easily be resorted to a mechanical method of lifting up ... >>> Read more
Once you are faced with the problem of unsatisfactory gear shifting, then you should be on your guard. Probably, this can be attributed to the breakage of the gears of the box.... When the latter is not a problem, then you can turn to adjusting the gearbox with screws located on the box near the base of the lever.
Here you shouldn't panic and rush to turn the screws. However, checking the condition of the balls and holes for the nature of breakdowns is still worth organizing a gearbox for a Ural motorcycle, do not forget to look at the health of the shift sector. If the situation inspires confidence in the reliability, then ... >>> Read more
As the saying goes, "We are responsible for what we have tamed."
The situation is the same with a motorcycle. Like any other technical device, the vehicle will require service. As a rule, services of this nature will be required every 2 thousand kilometers.
Services of a service nature can be performed, as a rule, at a service station, but it is always possible to perform them yourself. However, for this ... >>> Read more
It is often not uncommon when, during the operation of a two-wheeled friend, problems of various types are noticed in his work, for example, knocking, then you should not be afraid. The best solution in this situation is to carefully read the options below to fix the problem. The knocking pattern can be described as metallic or dry. The appearance of knocking can be triggered by starting the engine of the Dnieper motorcycle and decreasing as it warms up. This knock also appears in a situation where fingers are caught at the top ... >>> Read more
It is not uncommon for your "iron Horse" does not function as expected by the manufacturing plant, or even worse - refuses to work at all. However, “does not work” - the concept is quite cumulative, or as they say, the motorcycle does not start “every family is unhappy in its own way ...”. In this regard, let's analyze problems of various kinds for faults ... >>> Read more
I looked into the section on proposals for the development of the site and surprised this topic there and decided to break everything up and post here a video of the disassembly of the Urals
So.
Please pay attention to the size of the engine.
Vidio's name is written on top of it in blue.
In this video, the cylinder head will be removed. Removing the cylinder itself. Pressing out the piston. Installing the piston and cylinder.
Attention ! (On this video, the piston will not be heated before installation It is an error before installing the piston back, you need to heat it up to 80-100 degrees in oil !!)
Ural 650 - 4a Piston Replacement 1
Further installation of the head, valves
Ural 650 - 4b Piston Replacement 2
Dismantling the clutch and removing the flywheel.
Ural 650 - 3a Clutch Service - Part 1 of 2
Ural 650 - 3b Clutch Service 2
Change of brake pads cleaning removal of the rear wheel
Ural 650 Service - 10b Brake Service (Part 2 of 2)
Installing the engine in a motorcycle, installing a muffler and small items.
Ural 650 - 6 Engine Installation
😀 This will probably stop to be continued.
Ural 750 Tappet Adjustment
Repair of valve heads lapping and lapping check (Kerosene is poured into the inlet and outlet and it must not flow)
Ural 650 - 5a Ural Valve Job 1
Ural 650 - 5b Ural Valve Job 2
Removing the wheel and tightening the wheel bearings
Ural 750 Bearing Adjustment
Oil change
Ural 750 Oil Change
everything =)) probably. 
B)
Ural 750 Bearing Adjustment
such inscriptions are not visible ?? 
Added by (16.12.2011, 22:39)
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Mine sees it this way 
The main advantage of domestic boxer engines is their relative simplicity. The rule here is that the fewer parts, the less the likelihood of breakage and, accordingly, further repair. But even with such a simplicity of the engine device, it is necessary to have basic knowledge of the design and sequence of operations for diagnosing and disassembling and repairing the engine of the Ural motorcycle.
As a rule, the need for repairs is associated with a deterioration in engine performance in various modes, with an increase in oil and gasoline consumption, with overheating, with the appearance of extraneous noise, or with a drop in maximum speed.
The most difficult operation is to diagnose engine malfunctions by differentiating noise and knocking. The most common problems can be identified by the nature of the noise being emitted. A sharp, clear metallic knock occurs when there is excessive clearance between the piston pin and the upper connecting rod head. This defect is eliminated when cleaning accumulated carbon deposits from the cylinder head and determining the actual gap between the defective pin and the connecting rod head hole (the maximum allowable gap is up to 0.03 mm). The defective bushing is replaced with a new one, with drilled holes in the holes in the connecting rod, after which the grooves are stamped, as on the old bushing, then the hole diameter is brought to the required value using a reamer. After that, according to the actual size of the hole made, a finger is selected.
The presence of a gap between the defective pin and the piston block bosses is approximately also manifested. The difference lies in the fact that with such a defect, the knock is well heard on the maximum warmed-up engine, and it will sound more dull. The allowable wear gap for this fault must not exceed 1 µm.
The presence of a gap between the piston and the cylinder walls is detected by an abrupt sharp metal knock on a poorly warmed-up engine with idle speed. If, in the process of warming up the engine, the knocking gradually fades away, becomes duller and finally disappears, then the gap is within the tolerance range - does not exceed 20 microns.
The process of wear of piston rings, as a rule, is accompanied by a decrease in compression in the engine cylinder, leads to wear of the cylinder walls and increases oil consumption. All this leads to a drop in engine power and the appearance of carbon deposits in the internal combustion chamber, its concentration on the surface of the piston head and accumulation in the grooves. The working life of the piston rings, even with the most extreme operating parameters, exceeds 8 thousand km. The wear of the piston rings is accompanied by an increase in the clearance in the lock. It is recommended to replace all rings with new ones every 15 thousand km in case of removing the cylinder.
A dull, mid-tone knock appears when there is a gap in the junction of the lower connecting rod head and the crankshaft crank pin. It is clearly audible, as a rule, when the engine is idling, in its middle part. The gap normally should not exceed 10 microns at the time of movement of the lower head of the connecting rod along the center line relative to the position of the pin.
A low dull sound occurs on a warm engine with a sharp increase in gas. The reason for this is the wear of the main bearings. The permissible shaft play in the main bearings is no more than 10 microns. The admissibility of further operation of the crankshaft is made taking into account the limiting value of the backlash of the connecting rods in relation to the crank and the nature of the sound of the beating of the trunnions.The increased runout of the trunnions leads to premature wear of the main bearings. This defect can be eliminated with the centers and indicators of the lathe.
Stages of disassembly of the Ural motorcycle engine:
1. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder cover and carefully remove it. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder head, put the rocker arms, rods, remove the head from the studs.
2. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder, gradually moving the cylinder along the studs.
3. Remove the retaining rings. Remove the piston pin with a puller.
4. Unscrew the fastening screws at the timing cover and remove the crankcase cover.
5. Remove the screws securing the camshaft flange. Remove the plug of the upper part of the crankcase and remove the oil pump drive gear.
6. Remove the camshaft using the blade assembly.
7. Bend the lock washer, unscrew the camshaft gear fastening screw (on the crankshaft journal). Remove the pinion using the mounting blades.
8. Unscrew the screws from the clutch pack.
9. Mark the clutch discs relative to the flywheel.
10. Remove the bolt securing the flywheel to the crankshaft.
11. Remove the flywheel from the tapered part of the crankshaft.
12. Unscrew the securing bolts of the rear main bearing housing, remove the housing.
13. Remove the retaining bolts and separate the engine tray. Remove strainer and oil pump.
14. Press the crankshaft out of the front bearing and remove it from the crankcase.
Each operation for disassembling the engine and reassembling it is accompanied by the displacement of the worn-in parts, which leads to its premature intensive wear. Therefore, the Ural motorcycle engine should be repaired only if it is really necessary and only after an accurate diagnosis.
Articles are collected on the topic of repair, assembly, disassembly and troubleshooting in the units and systems of the Ural motorcycle. In what sequence to disassemble and which tool to use.
How to disassemble correctly? Find the fault and restore the clutch to working condition with your own hands.
Description of disassembling the gearbox of the Ural motorcycle - inspection of the gearbox parts and possible breakdowns. Correct replacement of parts.
How to find out the condition of the engine by a working spark plug and find a malfunction. Having unscrewed and examined the candles, give the correct answer.
How to choose the right one for a particular motorcycle. What to look for first when buying a battery.
Pan gasket leaked, replacement methods. What is the best way to make repairs and not return to it for longer.
Carburetor repair begins with thorough washing of its components in kerosene or gasoline.
Repairing a motorcycle clutch cable, brake and gas requires a set of tools made of a soldering iron, rosin and tin.
How long to charge, by what signs to determine the charge. How the battery behaves while charging.
How to check for serviceability of a candle, ignition on the road, using a simple homemade product from a gas lighter with a piezoelectric element.
Spark plug - how to clean, restore a spark plug. Why do you need a spark plug in a motorcycle engine and what role does it play.
Repairing a Ural motorcycle is a laborious, but quite entertaining business. This short video will help you understand some of the intricacies of repairing the Urals and determine the stages of work.
In this video, you can initially see photos of the Ural motorcycle, which has not been disassembled and has not yet been repaired. This is followed by the disassembly stage. The photos on the video are presented in high quality and in several angles, so all the details of the motorcycle are clearly visible and, if necessary, they can be perfectly seen. As shown in this video, repairing a Ural motorcycle will take a little time, although this, of course, may depend on the complexity of the breakdown.
After several photos of a completely disassembled motorcycle, there are photos that show the process of drying shock absorbers on a special device. Also, with the help of special tools, old paint is removed from the motorcycle.
The engine is the most important and complex part in both a car and a motorcycle. This video focuses on photographs of the motorcycle engine. This part is shown here from many angles, as well as during the renovation process itself. The author also paid attention to the motorcycle pistons.
Painting a motorcycle is also a difficult and exciting process. The author of the video painted the frame of his Ural in black. The painting process itself is not on the video, but you can see a photo of the result of painting and drying the frame on special pendants, which, by the way, were made by yourself. And now the frame is painted and assembled, it's time to start repairing the rear axle. Several high-quality photographs will help you quickly understand the stages of this type of work.
The finish of all work is the main painting. The author of the video suggests painting a motorcycle in three stages, so the paint will lay down more evenly and have a more saturated color. The video shows a photo of the initial primer of the parts before painting, this must be done. After the photos are presented after each stage of painting - the first, second and third - finishing.
