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The proportional ratio of these components of the mixture is indicated by the manufacturer in the manual. It is not necessary to prepare the fuel mixture in large volumes, since its properties are lost during long-term storage. The imported tool must be accompanied by instructions written in Russian. Before starting operation, the tool is brought into working condition: rubbing parts are lubricated, the cutting attachment is changed, a fuel mixture is poured into the tank. A week later I decided to work with this Hummer again. This is probably due to the fact that STIHL FS55 pretty lightweight. The order of work is as follows: Stop the engine and wait until it cools down. Although now I would take it with a straight bar, such as Stil FS55. Calm, in my opinion, is better for balancing the motor - after mowing, the hands do not buzz so much. The electric trimer is even more powerful. I mowed with a Boshev trimmer for 10-12 years. A long tubular rod is attached to the gearbox of a two-stroke internal combustion engine. For two years I mow 6 acres (5 times per season). The bar is straight, the gearbox is forged.
Shuriki "Hammer" work flawlessly, the only disease is very delicate chargers, the wire is thin, the hard workers tear it every month once a month. The fishing line did not even bother to try, put the disc right away - everything is cut off easily, even when the disc dulls against the stones. The braid starts up normally both on cold and hot - with 1-3 jerks with the starter. I fell into the sand and into the water and into the mud and from a height, everything seems to be in order. Benzokosa is one of the main tools of the summer resident used to quickly put the land in order. So, in order: Place the tool on its side so that the air filter is at the top. Steel knives with double-sided sharpening for the benzokos for clearing the area from weeds, small bushes, hard grass.
Don’t screw it up once you don’t know how the engine works and how to unscrew it’s better to keep silent, it’s good that I thought and looked at the arrow otherwise I would turn the calender
Bolobol, unscrewed counterclockwise, wedge the piston and unscrew it counterclockwise! ! Honored dislike
WYH look it is from which side to look! I'm not a super pro. Diz dak diz) I do not argue. Thank you for rating.
This is a scribe. This one . go down, insert it into that crap and you get such a pizdyulina))) Class, 5+
Roma, if Kostya hadn't posted this video with the “crap”, it’s not a fact that I would have run into Eugene’s interesting commentary on the silencer grid! So the author in any way respect and respect! And the community is the community to develop the collective mind! :))))
Roman Vasiliev thanks for the criticism, I will take it into account. but not everyone is born with accurate knowledge of every detail.
There is a mesh in the muffler, unscrew it, take it out, clean it and the speed will return to normal.
Zheka, thanks for the hint! I was worn out with this model, went through the carb, everything is uneven / unstable, the next step is to climb into the muffler! Live forever. Unsubscribe later, what and how! :))))
Cool told - "In general, it somehow unscrews, and then somehow it twists"
How does the boom joint work now after three years?
I honestly was surprised when you doubted the reliability of the connection, tk. I know that this is a definite plus, because it is very convenient for transportation, and in terms of reliability, it is not worse than a solid bar, for several years I have been convinced of my braid.
Alexander Vladimirovich Koshu every weekend in the season, no problem.
How to jam a crankshaft? Like whoever can, it doesn’t work. People come in to see how this is done in detail, and then another mess.
Alexander Stepanov I unscrewed the spark plug and pushed half a meter of rope into the cylinder, when the crankshaft was scrolling, the piston rests on the rope without damage, the crankshaft is jammed. Share with your friends, help someone. Good luck!
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The guys are posting a photo of the piston with the Perfer 520k brushcutter, the diameter of the piston is 44mm The question is the following, I can't find it anywhere. Maybe someone will tell you something. The candle is in the middle.
We have a warehouse of 90m2 of the necessary spare parts and tools.
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Many people ask the question "What is the difference between a brushcutter and a trimmer?"
To answer this question, you need to point out two main differences.
Firstly, the trimmer can only use the line, while the brushcutter functions with the knives as well as the cutting disc. Although you can use a line as well.
And secondly, any brushcutter ("Calm", "Echo" brushcutter, "Hammer" brushcutter, "Husqvarna" brushcutter, and any other) is much more powerful than a trimmer.
Actually, that's the difference. If the trimmer is intended for home use and neatly trimming soft lawns, then the brushcutter can already be used for professional needs in order to trim hard bushes.
In general, in fact, for "Lenremont" all this does not matter.
After all, we can carry out both trimmer repair, and repair of brushcutters. This is the "Calm" brushcutter, the "Echo" brushcutter or any other - our masters will still brilliantly cope with the repair of any equipment.
Equipment breakdown diagnostics
RUB 590 (in case of repair it is FREE)
Urgent diagnostics of equipment (1-2 days)
Repair of the rod and cutting part
Replacing the throttle handle assembly with a cable (s / y)
Replacing the cutting element on the guard
Gearbox repair (replacement of gears, bearings)
Replacing the shaft support sleeve
Replacing the belt mounting bracket (harness)
Replacing the steering wheel mounting bracket
Replacing the front handle (steering wheel) (s / y)
Replacing the trigger / throttle blocker (s / y)
Replacing the Impulse Port Seal
Carburetor repair (installation of a repair kit, replacement of a needle)
Replacing the intake manifold
Silencer cleaning (with cleaning, grinding of seats and replacement of heat-resistant gaskets)
Replacing the fuel tank breather
Replacing the breather, oil filter tube
Replacing the carburetor filter
Starter and ignition system repair
Replacing the spark plug (s / y)
Replacing the spark plug cap (s / y)
Replacing the high voltage wire
Ignition Adjustment (Magneto Gap Adjustment)
Replacing an external starter drum (s / y)
Replacing the starter cover / spring
Replacing an external starter assembly
External starter repair
Replacing the external starter cord
Replacing the internal-type starter drum (s / y)
Replacing the internal type starter spring
Replacing the starter assembly, internal type
Replacing the internal starter cord
Replacing the external clutch cup assembly (flush-mounted)
Replacing the internal clutch cup (flush-mounted)
Replacing the shock absorber (damper) of the clutch cup
Replacing the external clutch drum (s / y)
Replacing the clutch drum of the internal type (s / y)
Replacing the internal clutch
Replacing the external clutch
Replacing the clutch bearing
Replacing the clutch spring
Replacing the air filter
Replacing the air filter support
Replacing the choke lever
Flushing the air filter
Replacing the crankcase (with engine disassembly)
Replacing the crankshaft (full analysis)
Replacing oil seals (when replacing the crankshaft)
Replacing oil seals (without replacing the crankshaft)
Replacement of the cylinder-piston group (piston, piston rings, cylinder, bearings)
Complex flushing of engine parts
Bulkhead (applies only to professional equipment)
Restoration of the thread in the body (depending on the complexity)
Maintenance of benzotrimmer petrol cutters (type 1) - cost 3540 rubles
Checking, cleaning, adjusting the carburetor
Cleaning the air filter
Replacing the fuel filter
Checking, cleaning, adjusting the oil system
Checking and adjusting the ignition
Checking the condition of the clutch
Checking the functionality of the rod and flexible shaft
Maintenance of the benzotrimmer petrol cutters (type 2) - the cost is 4680 rubles
Checking, cleaning, adjusting the carburetor, replacing the repair. kit
Replacing the air filter
Replacing the fuel filter
Checking, cleaning, adjusting the oil system
Checking and adjusting the ignition, replacing the spark plug
Checking the condition of the clutch
Checking the functionality of the rod and flexible shaft
What are you getting: All maintenance work on your equipment is carried out by experienced and qualified employees of our service center using high-tech equipment that meets international standards.
In the process of maintenance, our specialists will check the technical condition of all working units and assemblies of your equipment and, in case of malfunction, will make their timely replacement or repair, carry out work on changing oil and filters, diagnose all systems and the engine. If necessary, our masters will check the control of your equipment, the power supply system, ignition and much more.
We guarantee quality repair and a high level of service!
The minimum cost of repair is 990 rubles.
The cost of works not indicated in the price list is negotiated separately.
The cost of work increases depending on the complexity and design features of the equipment, on its contamination, "sticking" of individual elements, due to improper operation, improper care and untimely preventive maintenance.
Elimination of the consequences of non-professional repairs + 50% of the base cost.
For urgent repairs with you, the extra charge for repairs is 2000 rubles. Repair is possible only in a specialized workshop on Kievskaya street.
Prices do not include the cost of parts. The cost of replaced assemblies and parts is charged in addition to the cost of work.
Due to the impossibility of accurately determining the scope of work by phone when accepting an order, the dispatcher gives the customer an approximate cost. The exact amount is called by the master when working directly with the technique.
The warranty period for the work of the master is 1.5 years.
The warranty period for parts is from 4 months.
Full conclusion of diagnostic work for writing off equipment - RUB 470
Electronic modules of washing machines are the most complex parts of this household appliance. They are based on a printed circuit board, on which control elements for each unit of the washing machine and its parts are located in a special order. The microprocessor, the most expensive part of the control module, synchronizes the operation of the elements. Electronic modules of modern washing machines can break down, and this is where the main problems begin. Within the framework of this article, we will discuss these problems and outline ways to resolve them.
The most basic problem is to understand whether the control module is actually broken and needs repair, or whether one of the units of the washing machine has actually broken down, and it is he who creates the appearance of damage to the electronics. Resolving this issue is of top priority, because if you start to immediately repair or change the module without sufficient reason, you will throw money down the drain, and the problem will not be solved.
Therefore, first, let's figure out how to diagnose the problem with the electronic module? Let's start with a simple one - let's study the typical signs of a breakdown of an electronic module. In about half of the cases, electronic modules of modern washing machines, by their "behavior", give out the cause of the malfunction. We just have to recognize and identify this.
Important! The specified behavior of the washing machine only hints to us about a malfunction and future repair of the electronic module. To be sure finally, it is imperative to conduct a series of tests.
Each of the eight above-mentioned signs of breakdowns can indicate both a malfunction of the control module and a malfunction of one of the sensors or the unit of the washing machine. To make sure that it is indeed an electronic module, you must first run the washing machine autotest, and then manually test the machine's units. Only then can you make final conclusions about the malfunction. So how to make a washing machine autotest?
On different models of washing machines, the autotest is done in different ways. Therefore, we recommend that you carefully read the instruction manual for your model of automatic washing machine. Let's give an example of self-testing using the Ardo washing machine as an example.
We translate the arrow of the programmer into a strictly vertical position, so that the arrow is directed downward.
We set the temperature to zero.
We check that the drum is empty and there is no water in the tank.
We press all the buttons on the control panel at the same time, after which the autotest mode of the machine should start.
At the end of the test, the display should show an error code corresponding to either a malfunction of the washing machine unit or a malfunction of the electronic module.
Note! The test cannot be carried out in washing machines with an asynchronous motor, or on ultra-modern machines with a built-in self-diagnosis system (there is a special button on the "self-diagnosis" panel).
Autotest does not give an adequate result in all cases. To make sure that the electronic module is faulty, you need to ring it with a multimeter. The same must be done with all suspicious units by ringing them one by one. The work, of course, is very painstaking, but this is the only way to be 100% sure that the electronic module is faulty.
There are many reasons for the failure of an electronic module. And not all reasons are due to improper operation of the washing machine. But first things first.
Factory defect: one of the parts of the board or the track is damaged.
Ingress of moisture, work in very high humidity conditions.
Voltage drops.
Disconnecting the washing machine from the mains several times during the washing program.
Factory defect, unfortunately, is typical for both cheap and expensive washing machines.
Most often, such a defect occurs in the most difficult part of the washing machine - in the control unit. Fortunately, in most cases, the problem is detected in a short time, when the machine is still under warranty, but sometimes the problem manifests itself only after a few years. In this case, repairs have to be carried out at their own expense and often with their own hands.
Any automatic washing machine is designed to work in very harsh environmental conditions, especially high humidity. However, in some cases, it is moisture that causes the failure of the electronic module ... Basically, moisture causes short circuits, damaging electrical and electronics. After that, the machine will definitely need serious repairs.
If you connect the washing machine to a "defenseless" power supply, a voltage drop may well burn any unit of the washing machine or all units together, including the electronic module. This can be avoided by including a difavtomat in the electrical communications supplying the washing machine.
And finally, the user factor. Never forcibly disconnect the washing machine while it is operating from the mains. Several such shutdowns may well damage the electronic module. If you urgently need to turn off the washing machine, it is better to press the stop, and then turn it off - this will be less harmful than a sudden shutdown.
Now we turn to the main question, is it worth doing the repair of the electronic module on your own, or is it better to entrust this responsible matter to specialists? It is rather difficult to answer this question. Everything will depend on your knowledge, skills and abilities of working with microcircuits and printed circuit boards, as well as on the nature of the breakdown.
The most basic problem of an amateur is the determination of a breakdown in an electronic module. Each detail needs to be ringed, to determine the burnt out element or the punctured track, and only then replace the element or solder the track. The likelihood that you will get it right with mediocre skills is close to zero.
Of course, it is possible to replace the electronic units of modern washing machines, but this will not work, especially if high-quality diagnostics have not been carried out. The new electronics board will most likely burn out again.
There is another option - to remove the entire control unit and give it to the master for testing. Experts do not recommend doing this. If you are to invite a master, then you need to give him the opportunity to ring and check the control unit locally, right on the washing machine. So he is able to define the problem more precisely.
Important! Electronic modules of modern washing machines can only be repaired by qualified craftsmen, do not entrust repairs to just anyone, take an interest in the recommendations of a specialist before entrusting him with the work.
Whatever one may say, it is more profitable to contact a specialist. Do-it-yourself repair of such a complex element of the washing machine can lead to even greater costs. In the worst case, if an incorrect equipment test is carried out, you can burn not only the control unit, but also the heating element, engine, drain pump, or all at the same time - you will have to buy a new car. This raises the question - why take the risk, isn't it better to entrust the repair of your home assistant to a good master?
Video (click to play).
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