DIY bathroom repair kit

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For work we need: soap container, glass, napkins, PVA glue, varnish for craquelure, paints, primer, fan brush, soft brush, file, sandpaper.

Cleaned from labels, degreased and sanded for better adhesion to the ground. I took some water into the container and closed it with a lid so that it would not bend.

I primed the soap dish and glass in two layers with white acrylic paint, my construction for outdoor work is waterproof, it turns out more economically than artistic acrylic, since I poured warm water into the soap dish - the paint dried instantly, literally under the brush.

After the primer has dried, rubbed with # 0 sandpaper for smoothness.

I cut out fragments from the napkin I liked, one 25 * 25 was enough for two items. The napkin came across very thin, so I glued it through the file (thanks to the one who came up with this). I put the fragment on the file with the colorful side down and with a fan brush, slowly pouring water and leveling the napkin.

Drain excess water from the file (the napkin is held firmly and does not slide off the file).

We apply a napkin to the object and press it well, remove the file, if folds have formed, they can be smoothed by wetting a brush or finger in water.

We dilute PVA glue with water 1: 2 (it should slide, if diluted strongly, then the folds are more difficult to remove) and cover the product, you can use a fan brush, or you can use your finger - it’s more comfortable for me: the napkin is felt better and you can immediately smooth out the folds.

After the glue has dried, we go through the sandpaper again, removing the roughness

I go through the places where I will make craquelure with gold acrylic paint.

After the paint has dried, I apply a one-component craquelure composition (I have DECOLA) and wait two hours (this is important), if the time cannot be kept, the girls complain that the craquelure is not working. It was enough for me for 1 hour and 50 minutes, but nothing - this is the result.

We cover the places with the craquelure varnish with acrylic paint, the cracks appear immediately, literally under the brush and, in my opinion, are very pretty.

After the paint has dried, I go through the edges with gold to complete the work. I cover several layers of varnish, usually I use aerosol, but here I have a tragedy - the aerosol is over, I had to use construction acrylic varnish, smear it with a brush (I didn't like it). I read the girls' reviews on the site that the napkin varnish clings, I did not understand what it was about, but then I felt it myself. True, on this set everything is fine, I just did 8 things at the same time, and they had problems.

To make a quality bathroom renovation, you don't have to have big finances. Indeed, if you wish, you can significantly save money.

For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and yourself come up with a style in which the renovation will be performed.

You can also save on the construction team and do everything yourself.

But in order for the process to be established and the result achieved, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan of action in advance.

So, you will need:

• Come up with a design;
• Stock up on the necessary materials and tools;
• Make an estimate;
• Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and the dimensions of the plumbing;

When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​the room. Owners of a small area should take into account that a small space is less functional.

Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.

You can refuse to install a bath and give preference to a shower cabin. Thus, there will be more space in the room.

For hygiene products, instead of bulky floor-standing cabinets, you can hang compact hanging cabinets.

After you have decided on the choice of design, you need to draw up an action plan. After all, in order for the process to go on continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.

Neglecting previous work can significantly affect the final result.

This is a very important stage in the renovation. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.

Indeed, in the process of cutting and masonry, some of the material can be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a margin.

To remove tiles from walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work with a punch or drill. There are two options for dismantling: gentle and emergency.

The first is done with a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.

The second option is much faster, but more “dusty” and “noisy”. To do this, you just need to demolish the coating with layers using a perforator.

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First of all, a screed device is installed. If the installation of an additional "warm floor" system is not provided, then the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3-4 cm if the floors are further insulated.

There are several types of "warm floor" system: water, film and electric. Any of the systems preserves the microclimate in the bathroom well, at the same time it has a low cost and is easy to install.

Today on the market there are materials for the bathroom for "every wallet". First of all, it all depends on the finances that you have. Most often, tiles are laid on the walls.

But you can choose a more budgetary option, for example, plastic panels or special moisture-resistant plaster. At this stage of the repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.

When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. So, for example, elastic vinyl film looks very nice with tiles and plastic.

• 

If you plan to make a ceiling with different transitions, then use a special moisture-resistant drywall. However, there is also a more budgetary option: plastic panels.

After all the finishing work has been completed, you can install the bath, furniture and plumbing. DIY repair is not easy, but very informative. Plus it can save you money and make the design exactly the way you want it!

Most often, cast-iron or metal baths are installed in houses and apartments. They are covered with enamel, the color of which can be chosen for any interior style. But enameled bathtubs are prone to chips and scratches due to the carelessness of the owners.Therefore, many are interested in the question, is there a kit for the restoration of the bath or how to fix the damage with your own hands? In this article, we will look at options for solving this problem.

There are 3 common ways to restore enamel:

• use a special kit for repairing an enamel bath;
• eliminate a scratch or chip with an automotive putty;
• use liquid acrylic to restore the coating.

Important! Liquid acrylic is best applied as the finishing touch after chipping in one of the first two ways.

It should be understood that the restoration of the bathtub will in any case differ from the original coating in color and quality.

To repair a bathroom with your own hands, you need to buy a remedy in a specialized store to restore the damaged layer of enamel.

Important! There are several options for such compositions of domestic and foreign manufacturers. The choice is yours, we only note that the cost of domestic funds is on average 2 times lower.

Common bathroom enamel repair kits:

• "Renaissance". Restores the coating of bathtubs and tiles. The set includes 4 packages: cleaning agent, hardener, and 2 jars of glue. The manufacturer offers 7 shades, so the kit can be used not only to restore the enamel of the bath, but also to update the color of the plumbing.
• "Epoxin". An epoxy paint that removes chips, scratches and cracks in enamelled coatings. You need to work with the kit quickly and accurately, as the paint sets instantly. The bath dries up completely one day after the repair.
• “Svetlana” and “Fantasy”. Sets for restoration of enamel of cast iron and steel baths, respectively. Includes surface preparation agent and enamel with hardener.

Important! The main disadvantage of these bath repair kits is the drying time, which is 7 days.

• "Reflex". The set is suitable for professional craftsmen due to the complexity of the work. The product is quite liquid and requires at least four coats to obtain a high-quality coating. Therefore, a complete restoration of the bath with this product takes 7 days.
• “Keramik-Email-Acryl Reparatur-Set”. The set consists of putty, putty knife, sandpaper, paint in an aerosol can. The bath is completely dry for 3 days.

Important! Carry out repairs and elimination of damage to the enamel coating strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

For bathtub restoration, you can use liquid acrylic, which creates a more durable coating than enamel. Its service life is increased to 8 years. Unfortunately, the cost of such a tool is several times higher.

The cost of ready-made sets for repairing bathtubs is not small, moreover, only masters with experience can use them on their own. Therefore, among non-professionals, their own folk methods have appeared to eliminate damage to the enamel.

To restore a bath with porcelain, you will need:

• sandpaper;
• a shard of an old porcelain bowl;
• resin;
• hardener;
• putty knife.

Having prepared the necessary materials, carry out the repair according to the following instructions:

1. Prepare the surface to be repaired with sandpaper to a matte finish.
2. Grind a piece of porcelain into dust using a cast iron mortar and pestle.
3. Then combine the hardener and resin in a 1:30 ratio respectively.
4. Apply the mixture to the chipped area and smooth with a spatula.

Important! The time for complete drying of the porcelain composition is 3 hours. With careful work, such a patch will last for a long time. The only drawback is that the material is very different from the enamel coating.

Another method can be used to restore an enamel bath. This requires:

1. Prepare the damaged area - clean, degrease and dry well.
2. Combine BF biological glue and whitewash to the consistency of toothpaste.
3. Apply the resulting composition to the place of the chip or crack.
4. Wait until it is completely dry.

Important! You can use a set of these materials for repairing chipped bath enamel with another layer-by-layer method. To do this, you need to alternately apply the glue base and dust on top with whitewash. After complete drying, a new layer is applied. This continues until the composition is equal to the surface of the bath enamel.

Automotive putty provides high-quality repair of the resulting chips and cracks on the surface of plumbing. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• To begin with, you need to carefully prepare the surface for restoration work, just as in the previous methods.
• Then apply fiberglass-based automotive putty to the chip.

Important! Choose the lightest shade, such as white or light gray.

• After the material has solidified, it is necessary to sand the surface with sandpaper.
• Then, using a brush, cover the surface with a layer of enamel.

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All of the above methods for restoring enamel after chips and scratches will not give an ideal result. You will protect the metal from corrosion, but outwardly the bath will be far from presentable. Therefore, if your finances permit, it is better to use liquid acrylic. This material will restore the attractive appearance of your bathtub.

This process requires certain skills. For a satisfactory result, you should first practice, "get your hands on" the old plumbing. The instructions for filling the bath with liquid acrylic are as follows:

1. Prepare the surface of the bath in advance: clean and degrease, remove chips, cracks in any of the following ways.
2. Pour boiling water over the plumbing, then dry with a clean terry towel. Make sure that there are no lint or thread left.
3. Remove the drain and overflow from the bath.
4. Place the plumbing on jacks, place a bucket under the drain hole to collect material. To do this, it is necessary to provide a slight slope towards the drain.
5. Pour the acrylic composition in a thin stream, starting from the edge of the plumbing.
6. After the first stage of pouring, using a rubber spatula, you can collect the material from the places where it is superfluous, and apply it to where the solution lies unevenly.
7. Repeat the process of filling the bath with liquid acrylic one more time. Then also smooth the surface with a rubber trowel.

The work on restoring the enamel is over, you just need to wait until the solution has completely solidified!