DIY repair knee pads

In detail: do-it-yourself knee pads for repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

For work on the ground, special knee pads are often used, which protect against damage, as well as dust and dirt. These devices are of three types: garden, construction, children. Often, homemade shields are used for giving, which should be made of special protective materials. Do-it-yourself knee pads are an excellent solution for protection from moisture, solid earth, stones. They are indispensable when planting seeds or cultivating the soil.

The leg guards must fit snugly on the knees and must not fall off during operation. To do this, they are fixed with a plastic fastener or elastic band. In addition, you should choose a size that matches the size of the knee joint.

Novice gardeners often have a question: how to make knee pads at home? First you need to decide on the long-term protective devices. There are both disposable and reusable shields. At one time, instead of special products, you can use foam, placing it under your knees, it will provide short-term armor.

One of the most common materials for making guards is travel rugs, which need to be glued or stitched in several layers. For a more complex manufacturing method, a waterproof fabric, insulation for pipes, foil insulation and Velcro are used. Often, knee pads are made of high-strength polyethylene foam. Such products relieve stress on the joints, promote warming in any weather and eliminate the possibility of pain in the knee area.

Video (click to play).

It is also possible to make knee protectors for children who like to spend time in the garden with adults. They are made from ordinary hosiery with an elastic band that will adjust the size. To do this, you need to cut off part of the socks to the heel and sew both parts together.

Long-lasting knee protectors are easy to make, given important material considerations. In order to sew knee pads with a simple and minimal cost method, you will need:

Plastic bottles. Due to the lightness of plastic, such shields will not take up much space, they are convenient to carry with you.
Strong adhesive.
A piece of loose fabric. Used to soften the wearing of plastic appliances.
An awl or large pin for making the necessary holes.
Wide elastic bands. They will fix the knee pads to the joints, so it is important to choose large elastic bands that can be easily adjusted to any leg width.
Patterns.

The first step is to cut a rectangular piece out of the plastic bottle. The length and width are selected individually, as a rule, the size is taken as a basis of 15 by 15 centimeters, counting from the knee cap. Due to the use of such a pattern, the shield will not interfere with the normal functioning of muscles and joints, and will dig into the skin.
The next step is to secure a piece of soft cloth to the inside of the plastic with a long-lasting glue. This is important so that the blade is firmly held inside the protective shield and does not fly out, thereby interfering with work. You can also sew the fabric to the plastic, making small holes in it for the threads to pass through.
Using an awl or large-sized pin, you need to make holes in the sides of the plastic. There should be two such holes for each knee pad.
The final stage in the manufacture of shields is to create holders that will secure the knee pads on the legs.To do this, you need to insert wide elastic bands into the holes made so that you can easily choose the size for the size of the foot. Any elastic bands or special plastic fasteners will do, which must be securely attached to the product.

Such protective knee shields will remain indispensable for a long time in the garden and for the vegetable garden, protecting the joints and skin from various injuries. In addition, you shouldn't worry about damage to your clothes and stubborn stains with them.

From this video you will learn how to make garden knee pads yourself.

When carrying out construction work, plumbing, electricians, tilers, etc. spend some time kneeling tiling / laying cables / pipes. Anyone who has tried to kneel on concrete chips and concrete floors knows what it is and inevitably uses knee pads. At the masters I saw only these, mainly from chain building stores: Image - Knee pads for DIY repair

The first option is attached with Velcro, which makes these knee pads just a test, because:

-They squeeze the leg and prevent it from moving on the leg when getting up and down on the knees

-Start rubbing after 15 minutes of wearing

-The Velcro comes off and the knee pads only go to the trash heap.

The second option is the same as the first, only it is kept on one rubber tie.

It's time to pick up a new robe and then I found out one curious thing. Mid-range robes and above have a knee pocket that opens either from the bottom or from the top. I have seen this pocket many times, including on my dress rehau robe, which they donated, but it never even crossed my mind that this pocket was used for knee pads!

I realized this when I read the description for the new robe, which I chose on the site. This scheme works as follows. We have:

Such inserts, the cost is 100-200 rubles, are sold in all clothing stores.

Robe with knee pockets where these inserts are inserted.

Thus, we get knee protection that does not interfere or cause discomfort.

It is cheaper than any other type of knee pads and has a long service life.

However, there is a small nuance when choosing clothes with such knee pads:

Pockets come with a flap on the top and bottom, take those that have a flap on the bottom, since when chipping under the wiring (like mine for example), stones will fly into them, and it is impossible to pour it out until you take off your pants.

That's all for me, take care of your knees!

No matter how rich the experience of a specialist, and no matter how confident he is, sometimes he needs to consult with someone. Communication on the vastness of the Internet network has become familiar to us for a long time. A variety of netizens - be they a professional or a knowledgeable hobbyist - can post life hacks (simple helpful tips on different topics) on the net that can be applied to your home.

What are the advantages of using forum resources?

A constant stream of interesting information about new building ideas.
Simple and helpful building tips.
The ability to communicate with interesting people, experienced masters of their craft.
Recommendations on the choice of tools or materials.
Also a nice plus is the lack of advertising, because users are the same consumers as you are.

All the latest construction news are posted on our forum, because our specialists always keep their finger on the pulse of construction events. Here you will find useful information for the operation of premises, inventory, and so on. Many people consider it useful to do more for the house with their own hands, because it is good for health, profitable economically, and provides some moral comfort. And a logical question arises: "How to do it yourself?" Answers can be obtained by looking through our website. It is after visiting this forum that you will fully experience all the advantages. On this Internet resource you will find information for arranging a summer residence with your own hands. But many of those recommendations can be taken into account when arranging an apartment.For the implementation of household projects of various sizes, inventory is needed. For general consultation of site visitors, an overview of the tools is created, where the information is presented in a simple and accessible way.

Knee pads protect your joints from cold ground and are much more comfortable to work with on hard ground or surfaces. At the same time, the knee pad will also protect your clothes from dust or dirt.

The knee pads themselves can be divided into 3 types:

Knee pads for the garden.
Knee pads for repair (construction).
Children's knee pads.

In the construction industry, knee pads are needed for tiling (especially you have very large volumes).

They protect the knee from hypothermia and reduce stress on it.

Of course, you can not fool your head with sewing your own knee pads and just buy ready-made ones, but ... many purchased knee pads have a drawback - a plastic insert in the center (in the figure under numbers 1, 2).

Such inserts are extremely unstable supports, and in addition, they raise the knee (due to the thickness of the insert) and this makes it impossible to stay on the floor for a long time (legs get tired from constant balancing).

There is an option without plastic inserts (in the figure under number 3), made of rubber (or rubber). Yes, this option is more convenient, but ... it does not warm and lets the cold from the tiles.

So, it turns out that there are no comfortable and protective purchased knee pads (with rare exceptions). How to be? - Purchased knee pads can be upgraded to make them more comfortable.

Modernization of knee pads with plastic insert

The easiest way to upgrade the knee pads of the first type (numbered 1) as it is fixed with Velcro.

First of all, remove the plastic inserts.
Then we take a clerical knife and cut through the lining (from the inside) and insert 2 strips of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of about 2.5-3 cm.
Why not 1 single strip? One strip will quickly break, and two, which will be fixed with reinforced tape, will last many times longer.

We also remove the plastic inserts.
We cut the lining.
We take a piece of thick polystyrene foam.
We grind it in accordance with the size of the knee pad itself and make a small "cone"
It is important to make a small indentation under the knee.

If you want an option for the garden, then you can simply make your own knee pads (rather than buying and upgrading them).Good knee pads help you work with your garden beds and flower beds (when you are tilling the soil or planting seeds).With their help, it is much more convenient (and better for health) to work on cold, damp ground, with or without pebbles. Such knee pads can also be used for winter fishing (but with a stronger emphasis on thermal protection).Of course, if you need "pseudo-knee pads" for one or two times - then you can just take pieces of foam and put them under your knees.Most often, knee pads are made using travel mats (gluing or stitching from several layers, fasteners are fixed between the layers).If you need knee pads with a "convenience" function, that is, it was easy to stand on the ground even with stones - the knee pads from tourist rugs are just right.But if you want the knee pads to support the "heat" function more, that is, if you prepare them for work in the spring, when the ground is still damp and cold, then the second option:

Waterproof fabric;

Insulation (for pipes);

Filtered insulation (optional);

Wide elastic band for bindings to the legs;

Velcro.

Sequencing:

We pre-straighten the insulation (if it was rolled up)
We measure the size of your knee and the future knee pad (for example, my width is 200 mm and 350 mm is the length).
We cut out 2 blanks from the insulation multiplied by 3 of these sizes (600 mm and 1050 mm).
We fold the insulation in 3 layers (better thermal insulation and softer to stand)
If this seems not enough for you, you can make another 1 layer of insulation between the insulation and the leg.
Now we sew a cover where we will insert this insulation (the insulation should not dangle inside).
For attachment to the leg, you can use a wide tape (7-10 cm) with Velcro.
For convenience, the insulation can be sewn onto the fabric itself.

For children's knee pads, the main function is protection. After all, the child often falls, and not only on the ground, but also on the asphalt.

How to protect the child in this case? Many simply dress the child to the maximum - jeans, leggings, and so on, but in the summer this is not very good, and there is no convenience.

You can make protective knee pads out of ... ordinary socks (not for children), you can't even always say that these were really socks (if you pick up socks with a large pattern, the impression is that these are special purchased knee pads).

To do this, you need to purchase 2 pairs of socks (always with an elastic band).

Then we cut it off as shown in the drawing (1 pair to the heel, for the second, cut off only 2-3 centimeters with an elastic band).

After that, we sew these two parts (it is advisable to overlap the edges).

At the exit, we get knee pads with two elastic bands (an ode at the top, the second sewn at the bottom).

If this does not suit you, you can additionally make "pockets" with felt, cotton wool or any other softening material at the knee level.

In general, from what and how to make knee pads, first of all, starting from the functions that they should perform: it can be protection from solid soil or asphalt (as in the case of children's knee pads) and construction knee pads, and heat protection for work on cold land (and for winter fishing).

The level of safety and the choice of materials also depends on you, we only provide you with ideas.

Knee pads are a very useful and popular item. This accessory is used by athletes, builders and dancers. Knee pads can also be very useful for gardeners. And although they are all very similar to each other, they still have some differences.

For example, knee pads for athletes are designed to protect the knee joint from bruises and scratches, dancers need reliable fixation, and summer residents need softness and warmth. Therefore, it will be very difficult to buy a suitable model, especially since you can make them yourself much faster and cheaper. Such an accessory will meet all the requirements and will definitely fit the owner.

Knee pads for summer cottages and gardens are designed to facilitate work on the beds - weeding, sowing seeds, loosening. Since such work requires standing all the time, bending over or squatting. Such positions are very inconvenient, and for elderly people they are often contraindicated. Garden knee pads must meet the following requirements:

be soft so that the stones on the ground do not cause inconvenience;
waterproof, as you often have to work on wet soil;
fit the size of the knee joint;
warm to prevent hypothermia of the knee joints during spring sowing, as this entails inflammation and swelling of the knee.

Garden knee pads can be made from a variety of materials. There are many options for disposable and reusable knee pads. Making disposable appliances with your own hands takes only 5-10 minutes.

You can use the styrofoam pieces by simply tying them to your knees. But this option is not the most convenient, since this accessory will be needed every day, and the foam is a very brittle material.

Therefore, it is much better to sew reusable good knee pads with your own hands. It's quite simple, the main thing is to follow the recommendations exactly.

Quite good do-it-yourself knee pads can be sewn from travel rugs. They are cold and water resistant. To do this, you need to cut out a pattern from oval-shaped cardboard. Then, according to the pattern, 5-6 blanks are cut from the tourist rug. The workpieces are glued together with superglue or stitched. In the middle between the layers, insert fasteners from belts.

Knee pads for tilers become an urgent need when working in winter and on large volumes of work (tiles on the floor in supermarkets, garages, etc.). This device should protect against hypothermia and reduce stress on joints when working on your knees.

Not all types of construction knee pads I know are comfortable and meet these requirements. The three most common types have one major drawback. This is a plastic insert in the center.

If the knee pad number 3 has a plastic casing with sufficient support area, then knee pads 1 and 2 are very unstable when supported on them. The considerable thickness created by the insert causes additional knee elevation. All this makes it impossible to stay on the floor in them for a long time. There is a constant tension required to maintain balance.

One of the varieties of knee pads.

The second type of this type of device is made of rubber or, as indicated in the description, of rubber. When working on a cold floor, it can provoke illness knee joint for many years.

It turns out that there are no comfortable and reliable knee pads. But there is always a way out of the impasse.

One of the options is to do the reconstruction of the first type of knee pad:

Remove the plastic tips.
Cut the lining from the inside.
Insert a piece of extracted styrofoam or, better yet, a piece of styrodur (German styrofoam).

This is warmth for the knee. In such a device, you can work on your knees at the minimum permissible temperatures for laying tiles + 5C. This is the permissible temperature for the tile, but not for the knee.

The lining reduces pressure on the joint. The knee does not wobble, but rests tightly on the recess in the expanded polystyrene. The insulation, although tough, no longer has such pressure on the joint, as when resting on concrete.

– The main advantage of the expanded polystyrene insert is negligible weight... The knee pad does not slip and is almost imperceptible on the leg. You can quickly get used to it and not notice.

You can use thick (4-5 centimeters) expanded polystyrene. The insulation must be cut to the size of the factory knee pad and made a little on the cone. For more comfort, make a small indentation under the knee, which will become deeper over time. The two photos below show this well.Inserts of 5 cm polystyrene foam.Tapered knee pad inserts.

But if you use a 3 cm thick insulation, there is no need to cut anything into a cone, except for a small depression in the center, under the knee. After an hour of work, a recess is formed in the insulation, which will fix the joint. Over time, the insert crumples and breaks (usually a month of intensive work). Replacement is not difficult and costly.

Replacing the squeezed polystyrene foam insert.The problem of a top strap that constantly crushes is easy to solve. It needs to be hooked not on the top Velcro, but on the bottom, diagonally.The rubber straps are stretchable and free of movement.These knee pads can be seen in action in a short video - Seam filling on an open balcony. Late autumn - the temperature is still above zero, but in the morning the tiles become cold. It becomes a necessity to put on warming pads on the knee.

on the arrow in the upper corner)

P.S. (Added entry)

Sal DiBlasi (the tiler whose rubber knee pads were always on the floor) recently bought new knee pads that are worth taking a closer look at.

What are the advantages of the new knee pads:The knee was clearly fixed. And they have a sound medical rationale for that. (translated from Google, but the meaning is clear):Fixation scheme for the joint in the new knee pads.The straps do not press on due to the individual selection of sizes and fastening features:Cross-to-cross fixation of the knee pad straps.Thick lining made of dense polyethylene foam + plastic base, protect the joint from hypothermia and premature wear:Medical rationale for the reliability of knee pads.The question remains - How quickly can you get used to and not notice the bulky structure on your legs while working?Detailed videos about the new knee pads are below:

), but don't know yet what!

A small request, if anyone has constructive suggestions or already has real (practical) developments, then put them up for general discussion ... because there is no limit to human imagination.

Well, actually, the culprit himself ...

The production time for 1 copy is about five minutes ...

The following tool was used for manufacturing ...

but I think that in case of BP or emergency, one knife will be enough ...

A pattern with dimensions in cm is given for clarity, but everything is done by eye and by sensations ...

Several images ... how it sits (looks).

P.S. For commercial use, the link and% are required.

Plastic bottles; glue "Moment"; soft cloth; awl; big pin or big tailor; wide elastic bands.

First, prepare the main element of the original garden - bottles. A container with a volume of 1.5 or 2 liters is suitable. They should have lids. The number of bottles depends only on your preference and the length of the vertical surface. They should be rinsed first if you intend to use bottles other than water, but beer or sugary drinks. Their remains can provoke the appearance of mold in the soil.

Cut a rectangular hole in the side of each bottle. Don't make it too small, or it will be uncomfortable for you to plant a plant in it.

Equip yourself with an awl and use it to punch through holes on the bottle for the rope. To do this, lay the container on its side so that the cut out rectangular hole is on top. Two rope holes should be located next to this hole, one on each side. Two more holes must be made strictly under the upper holes. For convenience, the awl can be preheated.

Make a drain at the bottom of the bottle to drain excess water. Plants usually do not need stagnant water.

Thread the ropes through the holes you made and tie knots under each on both sides. They will not let the bottles slide. On one rope, if desired, you can string several bottles at once.

Hang ready-made structures from the fence or wall of the house. It is better to do this in a checkerboard pattern.Now you can fill bottles with soil and plant seedlings of vegetables in them.

For such a bottle garden, parsley, green onions, lettuce, coriander, dill are ideal. Even radishes can be grown in bottles if desired.

Believe me, a galaxy of bottles with plants on the wall of a house or a fence is not only practical, but also very original. The bottle garden will spice up the décor of your site.

today I share very comfortable knee pads (in my opinion)

Previously, I had many options, but they all crawled under the trousers or bulged up in a lump.

and these came and did not let me down

knees are warm and comfortable

knitted from yarn 25% -dog wool
75% merino
300 m = 100 g
it took 100 gr

ribbed part, I called it an accordion, knits 3 rows with front loops, 3 rows with purl

Knit from above with an elastic band 1x1 = 10 cm in a circle

my husband is fishing, I knit (photo in field conditions

)

then we move on to knitting an accordion in my version it is 12 loops

put a marker 12 faces, a marker, turn 12 lives, turn 12 faces, continue knitting in a circle

with a 1x1 elastic band on both sides of the marker, make an offset by one loop in each strip

(BUT THE TOTAL NUMBER of loops does not change)

marker 14 out, marker, turn, 14 faces, turn, 14 out, continue knitting in a circle

marker 16 faces, the marker is rotated, 16 out, rotate, 16 faces continue in a circle 1x1

so I got 34 loops (wide part of the accordion)

then we knit another 4 cm without displacement, as much as possible, this is at your discretion

Now we knit an accordion, but for a narrowing

marker 34 persons, marker, turn 34 from, turn, 34 persons, 1x1 elastic in a circle

marker 32 from, marker, turn, 32 faces, turn 32 from, elastic band 1x1 in a circle

marker 30 faces, marker, turn, 30 out, turn, 30 faces, 1x1 elastic band in a circle

and so on until there are 12 loops (accordions)

now just go to 1x1 elastic and knit another 3cm and start

make a reduction in the loops (due to them, the knee pad does NOT slide)

knit 7 loops with an elastic band and knit 3 loops together (we try not to break the loops of the elastic (you can see in the photo)

at the top of the knee pad the elastic is longer, and at the bottom it is shorter

Now we knit with an elastic band 1x1 another 4cm, all the knee pad is ready!

and knees will thank you

MANY THANKS I didn’t think that knee pads would produce such a flurry of kind words.

Knee pads produced by fishing companies are usually thin, and it is inconvenient to catch from knees for a long time. In addition, when fishing in wet snow, as well as in the presence of water on the ice, it is impossible to stand in thin knee pads, as the overalls get wet. That is why, more and more often, anglers use thicker izolon knee pads.

To make such knee pads on your own, you will need a sheet of isolon (you can use a regular karemat), an elastic band 4 cm wide, Velcro or fastex fasteners, and shoe glue. The thickness of the izolon sheet can be any, in my case it is 2 cm. The total thickness of the knee pad will be 6 cm, that is, each knee pad is three-layer. Thus, you need a sheet of isolon with a size of 0.6x0.7 m. If the thickness of the layer is different from the above, other sizes of the sheet of isolon will be required.

Using a marker, mark the sheet into 6 equal parts with dimensions of 0.35 m by 0.2 m. Using a sharp knife, cut the isolon along the markings.

After that, using glue, we attach the elastic to the first layer of isolon at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 15 cm from the top from the edges of the knee pad.

Then we glue two more layers of isolon on top.

To give the knee pads a rounded shape, according to the shape of the legs, before drying, they need to be tied with tape to a three-liter jar.

After drying, the knee pads will have the desired curvature. The next day, we sew Velcro to the ends of the elastic and carefully cut off the uneven edges with a sharp knife.

For any, even locksmith work, it is necessary to use PPE. Many things look harmless at first glance, and some discomfort when using PPE leads to the fact that many people slaughter them. If someone is interested in what is the threat of this or that type of activity without protection -
you can easily google hearing loss from loudly working tools, lung silicosis from the lack of respirators during skinning / cutting / welding, etc., etc.
1. Eyes.
Drill, grinder, engraver, welding, painting - all these types of work require eye protection.
The eyes will be protected from mechanical factors:
- open glasses (polycarbonate). The lightest and most comfortable, cheapest, sweat little; however, they do not protect the face and eyes from ricocheted particles.

- closed glasses (polycarbonate). In comparison with the first option, they sweat more, are less comfortable, more expensive, but 100% protect the eyes.

- full face shields (polycarbonate). Excellent protection for eyes and face, perspiration a lot (a respirator solves the problem), reduces access to places with limited space.

Only full-face respirators (masks) will protect your eyes from solvents and other chemicals. One of the most expensive types of PPE, many people forget it.
The eyes will be protected from the welding arc by:
- glasses with blackout (gas welder). Cheap, inconvenient, all the fuck in a tan.
- passive masks, welding shields. Cheap, for work you need the skill of starting welding "in the dark" and practicing head movement)), the greater the likelihood of caught "bunnies", in the version of the shield - the inability to hold something with the other hand.
- masks with an active light filter (chameleon). The most expensive option, the most fragile, however, provides maximum convenience in work and maximum protection for eyes and face.

Now there is a sufficient assortment of Chinese cheap chameleons with a price of 1500 rubles. For garages unencumbered with large sums - the best option. 3-5-fold difference in price with well-known brands (3M, OTOS, Optrel, Tecmen - in descending order of price) will give you a larger temperature range, greater mechanical stability (3M 100, for example, you can kick)) slightly higher efficiency of the filter, ease of wearing, the possibility of repair, a better view (for example, the degree of darkening in the open state of the top masks is a couple of times lower than the Chinese) ... But all this, let's say, is not critical. if you have money - we take a suitable mask, no - any Chinese mask will do a good job with ordinary work. I would not recommend only the products of our "Rosomz" - everything they have is hefty clumsy.
Use a welder's hat during work so as not to burn your hair!

2. Ears.
With long-term work with a loud instrument (for example, an earbud), there is every chance to plant your hearing. There are two options to defend yourself:
- earplugs. compact, do not interfere with other objects (visor, respirator), high reduction in sound pressure.

- headphones. difficult to combine with other PPE, comfortable enough to wear.

3. Respiratory organs.
Abrasive work and welding. A huge amount of suspension in the absence of protective equipment settles in our lungs, despite some discomfort when wearing, I would strongly recommend always using respirators:
- disposable masks. They sit quite poorly on the face, masks without a valve generally work disgustingly, and often unreliable fastening straps. With regular work, this type is economically unprofitable.

- half masks / full face masks. They fit perfectly on the face, the ability to vary filters, protection is ten times higher in comparison with disposable products. The most common in our country are RPG and 3M. There is no great experience in using domestic products, but we can say that they are cheaper, less comfortable, but they do their job. 3M with excellent ergonomics and a wide range of options is the best option. Half masks of the 6000 series (rubber) / 7000 (silicone) cover most of the problems. A silicone mask is a little more comfortable.
To protect against dust, there are 2 filter options - 3M 6035 (sales in the Russian Federation) and 3M 2091 (sales in the states, China, Europe). These filters are very good. serve for a long time (2091 can and should be purged).
For protection against solvents, 6051 and 6057/6059 can be used (more expensive, more universal).These filters are charcoal, so you shouldn't sit in a mask unnecessarily, be sure to tightly close the mask after use, and also change the pre-filters in time. As soon as a slight odor appears in the mask, the filters need to be changed. I did not identify any regularities in terms of use.
One pair went to the trash after several paints, and sometimes used it for six months. To save money, you can buy 3M products on ebay, and not in our stalls.

4. Hands.
Often washing your hands from grease, dust, paint and other paintwork with various means such as solvents, there are great chances to constantly walk with peeling hands, and, along the way, poison yourself through the skin with all sorts of acetone.
In addition to cotton gloves, I almost always use disposable gloves - there is no need to wipe anything after work - my hands are clean.
- latex gloves - the most sensitive, hold solvents well, stretch well, are weak mechanically and do not tolerate degreasing well.
- vinyl gloves - mechanically much stronger (enough for several times), practically do not stretch, do not completely fit fingers (it is not so convenient to work with small parts), resistant to degreasing and solvents.
- nitrile gloves - mechanically as well / slightly better than vinyl (enough for several times), resistant to degreasing, less solvent holding.

- plastic gloves are inconvenient, because do not fit the hand, the most economical option during painting work.
- drenched cotton gloves - mechanically strong, however, low sensitivity and the penetration of liquids through non-poured areas spoil the whole picture, in them unless in hot oil look for the drain plug or change the wheels into slush))
- split leather gloves - maximum protection against mechanical damage (so that the grinder does not bite, for example), as well as from heat and sparks. When overheated, split gloves shrink in the heating zone and no longer take their original shape! If there are no welding arms, it is better to carry out welding work without gloves at all - ordinary cotton gloves trap sparks in themselves and create a bunch of small burns on the hands.

For jewelry work with welding, for example, there are leggings with a palm part made of thin leather. Cover open areas of the body as much as possible when welding!
Be sure to choose gloves that fit your hand!

Video (click to play).

5. Body.
For abrasive and welding works, the use of synthetics is unacceptable - everything will be like a sieve. Jeans, tarpaulins, split leather perfectly protect against small particles and splashes. In the warm season, it will be hot in such clothes, so it is a good idea to purchase specialized items, such as split arm sleeves and an apron.
Often it is necessary to perform work on the floor - knee pads will protect both knees and clothing from premature failure. High leather boots with a shock-resistant insert in the toe will complement the fire-resistant suit.
For painting work, it is advisable to use special overalls - the absence of fibers and dust, which is abundant in work clothes, may save time and money on polishing or reworking the work.

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