Pump etsv DIY repair

In detail: pump etsv do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Without submersible pumps, not a single well will function properly. This very robust-looking device really is, and is distinguished by its reliability and duration of operation without emergencies.

Connected submersible pump ready to be lowered into the well

Failure of submersible pumps is an extremely rare occurrence (of course - with proper operation). But if it happens, then timely repair of deep-well pumps is necessary in order to avoid additional, sometimes more serious, problems in the water supply system from the well. Fortunately, you can make such repairs yourself.

Due to the fact that the pumping device constantly interacts with water, it is constantly influenced by various negative factors. Fortunately, such negative factors rarely lead to lightning-fast breakdowns, usually the pump's performance is disrupted gradually, gradually and noticeably for the exploiters.

And this means that if small defects are found, it is not necessary to radically replace the deep-well pump, since you can do the repair yourself. By the way, replacing a submersible pump with minor breakdowns is practically never carried out at all. Submersible pumps are even easier to repair, including by hand, than submersible pumps.

In the overwhelming majority of cases of breakdowns of deep-well pumps, it is the magnet of the pumping device that fails. Such a breakdown is most often observed in submersible pumps of the "Sprut" and "Aquarius" brands. Unfortunately, in this case, do-it-yourself repairs will not work, since the equipment for repairing the pump magnet is available only at specialized enterprises. In such a situation, the pump must immediately be taken for repair to specialists..

Video (click to play).

Another thing is extraneous noise when the pumping device is running. Here we are already talking about a breakdown of a mechanical nature. In the overwhelming majority of cases, mechanical damage can be eliminated by hand.

The first step in case of extraneous noise is to disassemble the pumping device for parts. In cases where noises are heard from pumps of the "Sprut" or "Aquarius" brand, it is necessary first of all to check the electrical system of the pump, which includes both the engine itself and the automation system.

Subsurface pump with connected hose

Pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" have breakdowns most often in these systems, which, however, can be repaired quite simply with your own hands. Among other problems that often arise with pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" are breakdowns of the time relay and the protection system against short circuits or dry running.

The reasons for such breakdowns can be gradual blockages of the internal pumping system with foreign objects from the well soil. In addition, the operation of the pump in dry mode can also become a serious problem, since at such a "stroke" the oil quickly runs out, which leads to uneven and uneven operation of the internal mechanisms of the pump.

In such a situation, over time, the parts undergo deformation, up to the impossibility of repairing in principle. That is why any pumping device, especially popular in the CIS brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", must undergo constant diagnostics for internal problems, preferably by specialists.

The rarest reasons for the failure of a pumping system are the following:

overheating of the working fluid when its temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius;
improper attachment of the submarine cable.

These problems are typical not only for pumps of the brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", but in general for everyone, since the reasons that led to such problems are in no way connected with the quality of the pump, but directly depend on the professionalism of the pump installer.
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If you find that the device is not working properly, you should not immediately try to fix it, even if the reason is obvious. Initially, you need to check the device for the presence of either minor problems that are not so obvious at the first inspection, or for the presence of a major problem, when it is initially not clear at all why the device does not work.

Submersible pump with accumulated deposits on the casing

On the submersible pumps of the brands "Sprut" and "Aquarius", as, indeed, on any others, the first thing we do is to check whether there was a banal overload, due to which the automatic device and the entire pumping system as a whole could turn off.

disassemble the junction box;
make a visual inspection of the inside - a burnt-out part will be immediately noticeable (a burning smell can also be felt).

If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, then you need to remove the impeller from the pump motor and check whether the motor itself rotates directly in a free state or not.

It is important to know that most modern pumping devices are manufactured in single phase. A so-called "smoothing capacitor" is connected to them, thanks to which the engine starts up more smoothly and smoothly. There is a special winding around it.

In such pumps, the engine most often burns out. Actually for this reason, it is necessary to remove the impeller. And after removing the impeller, you must try to scroll the shaft manually. Thanks to the pre-vacated space, due to the removal of the impeller, this is not difficult to do.

But if the shaft is not spinning, then you need to think about mechanical failure. To be more precise, you should think about engine jamming.

This can happen for the reason that small or, in other cases, large particles of soil constantly get into the engine.

This only happens if the engine does not have an additional protective filter. Actually, these particles can be the cause of such problems. It is noteworthy that if they are not promptly removed from the motor of the pumping device, then this will gradually lead to the fact that the entire stator winding will completely burn out. She, obviously, cannot be repaired, only replaced. However, if the shaft has no problems with rotation, then the lower part of the motor can be assembled.
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Before starting to disassemble the upper part of the electric motor, be sure to place it in an upright position. This is really necessary, as installing the electric motor in the wrong position can lead to oil leakage, which is the working fluid in pumping systems..

After installing the electric motor in the required vertical position, it is imperative to remove the cover through which the power wires of the installed electric motor pass. Actually, when you remove the cover, you can immediately diagnose the starting capacitor for problems. To do this, it will be necessary to use an ohmmeter in order to check the resistance of both the starting and its own working winding.

Therefore, further you need to take the ohmmeter terminals and connect them directly to the winding itself. Next, you need to rotate the handle, which will then create the required voltage of 200 - 300 volts. When the resistance readings on the device do not reach infinity, and this has a certain value, it can be assumed that the condition of the winding is satisfactory or even ideal.

But in cases where the device detects resistance reaching infinity, we can safely say that there is a problem in the form of an interruption in the operating phase of the motor.

Blockage of the inside of the submersible pump

When the device detects too little resistance, we can say that there is a so-called turn-to-turn circuit. Unfortunately, if one of the above possible problems occurs, then an attempt to fix everything with your own hands will not be crowned with success, and the unit will need to be taken to specialists who have the equipment necessary for repairing.

However, in most cases, the problems described above require not so much a partial or complete repair as a complete replacement of all defective parts. Especially when it comes to winding.

If the device says that all the checked elements of the pumping system are in perfect working order, it is necessary to carefully examine the starting capacitor. Under such circumstances, most often the cause of a malfunction of the entire system is precisely its breakdown. In addition, it can be in a state of the so-called breakage.

Unfortunately, at first glance, this problem may not be striking, but when diagnosed with a special device, an ohmmeter, the malfunction will surely come out. And already in these cases, it will be possible to repair the starting capacitor on its own. However, most often, the repair of a starting capacitor can only be called a complete replacement, since its breakdown, and most often it is overheating and combustion of the capacitor, is a fatal breakdown.

Repair of a submersible pump is an integral part of the correct operation of the unit, which allows you to increase its service life. For any private plot, the presence of such equipment facilitates the delivery of water to the living quarters, watering the garden and vegetable garden.
Despite the rather high reliability of manufacture, sometimes repair of borehole submersible pumps is required. How to make it yourself with your own hands, this article invites you to get acquainted.

Advice: It is most reliable to hand over the repair of such equipment to professionals, but if an insignificant part fails, you can replace it yourself.

Diagram of a vibrating submersible pump

There are several reasons that contribute to the failure of such units. Pumps that work directly with liquids are constantly exposed to quite different negative factors, which are the causes of device malfunctions.
In this case, you must first find out whether it is possible to repair the product, and only after that decide: buy a new unit or repair an existing one, then the price of the pump will significantly decrease.

The magnet of the device is out of order. This defect cannot be repaired. It is necessary to take the pump to a specialized workshop, where specialists will repair it.

The presence of extraneous sounds during the operation of the device indicates a mechanical failure. In this case, most likely, it is possible to eliminate the breakdown on your own.

Such malfunctions can be caused by:

very dirty water that clogs the pump;

operation of the device in dry mode - there is no oil, the need for which is mandatory;

overheating of the device, which occurs when the liquid is heated to a temperature above 40 ° C;

improper fixation of the cable under water.

The electrical part of the unit often requires repair, it may fail:

time relay;

an overload circuit breaker;

the operation of the phase supplying the pump has been interrupted;

motor windings.

There are numerous other breakdowns of the pump, leading to its malfunctioning and even failure.
It can be:

Accumulator malfunctions.

Lack of filter for cleaning.

The pressure switch has broken.

Lack of grounding can result in power surges or short circuits to the motor housing, resulting in pump failure.

After detecting a malfunction, it is necessary to repair the submersible borehole pump.
For this:

It is checked whether there is an overload in the network, as a result of which the safety switch has tripped. For this:

the junction box is opened;

the impeller is removed from the engine;

its free rotation is checked.

The photo shows the order of assembling the pumps:Tip: In order to start the motor smoother, it is better to connect a smoothing capacitor to it.

The starter of the motor could have burned out, which requires the removal of the impeller.

The shaft is rotated manually. This allows you to make a free space from the impeller.

If the shaft cannot be rotated, a mechanical failure of the element is possible, which has led to the seizure of the engine. This could be caused by the ingress of various small and large soil particles.

Failure to remove dirt in a timely manner can lead to combustion of the stator winding.

Normal rotation of the shaft allows the bottom of the motor to be assembled.

There are a number of measures that can facilitate the work associated with the repair of a submersible pump:

Before disassembling the upper part of the electric motor, it must be placed vertically. This is necessary, otherwise the oil, which in most modern systems serves as a working fluid, can simply leak out, and this is unacceptable.

After that, the cover is removed, which includes the wires for supplying voltage to the electric motor. The starting capacitor is also visible here.

To check the resistance of the starting and working windings, you must use an ohmmeter.

In this case, the ohmmeter terminals must be connected to the winding.

By rotating the handle, a voltage of several hundred volts is generated. When the device reads a resistance of a certain value, but not infinite, it shows that all the windings are in good condition. When the device reads infinity on the working winding, there is a break in the working phase of the motor.

If the resistance is very small, it indicates a short circuit between the turns of the motor.

Tip: If you have one of the above breakdowns, it is almost impossible to fix everything yourself. In this case, the unit must be returned to specialists for repair.

If, according to the readings of the devices, all the elements are in good condition, you will have to check the starting capacitor. It is possible that it has broken or is in a cliff.
Such a malfunction can be accurately detected by the device, although outwardly everything looks fine. In this case, you can replace the capacitor yourself.
In very rare cases, it can be repaired. But, most likely, it simply burned out, and such a malfunction for this electronic element is fatal.

EVTs - a unit powered by an electric motor (E), centrifugal (C), for water supply (V). Repair of submersible pumps EVTs is carried out in the event of its failure.
In this case, the order of work includes:

Disassembly of the device.

Diagnostics, which is carried out on special equipment.

Complex renovation works.

Start-up and adjustment of the correct operation of the unit.

Testing. A special stand is intended for this.

Malfunctions of the EVTs submersible pump may arise due to:

High temperature of the pumped liquid.

The presence of mechanical impurities in it.

Silting up of the well.

The occurrence of water hammer.

Failure to comply with the rules for using the device.

Since there are models of pumping equipment from different manufacturers on sale that differ in strength and design features, the repair and operation of such devices should be carried out taking into account the model. Since as a downhole unit you could have chosen not "Water cannon" or "Whirlwind", but a model of another brand, we decided to list the weaknesses of the most common pumping products, as well as the features of their repair:

Most Grundfos models have special thermal insulation for the engine and built-in valves. Therefore, sometimes it is necessary to change the thermal insulation seals of the motor. This work can only be done by a professional.
Jileks brand pumps often encounter fluid leakage from the electric motor. For repair it is necessary to replace the fluid with a similar product.This can be done only in a special service center.
The most popular is the domestic pump "Malysh". Although the price of service repair is quite acceptable, it is not difficult to repair this device with your own hands. A common problem is that the unit makes a lot of noise after turning on, but does not pump water. This usually happens due to a rupture of the central axis on which the membrane and anchor are installed. Usually, disassembling the unit will quickly identify the problem. The axle needs to be replaced. You can find out more about the repair of the Malysh pump from the proposed video:

The downhole pump "Vodoley" quite often overheats during operation. This is especially true for units installed in shallow wells. However, since the repair of such equipment can be about half of its cost, then if an inexpensive pump breaks down, it is easier to buy a new device.

Pumps "Vodojet" and "Whirlwind" are a fairly reliable technique that, if used correctly, can serve for a long time without breakdowns. If not properly operated, the units can become clogged with silt and sand. For repairs, you will need to change the pumping part.

Pumping equipment "Rucheyok" is also famous for its ability to overheat. And this despite the design in compliance with European standards. According to the manufacturer's instructions, the device can work without stopping for 7 hours, but in practice this will cause overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to give the pump a break after 2-3 hours of operation.

As for Vodomet pumps or units of other brands, often the reasons for breakdowns can be:

silting of the impeller;
break in the supply cable;
failure of the rotor or stator.

To diagnose the problem with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

To begin with, the unit must be removed from the well and performed for a test run. If the shaft rotates, the problem is with the impeller. It must be cleaned of silt and the unit can be assembled and operated further.
If the "Water cannon" pump does not even turn on during the test run, then first you need to check the power cable with a tester. To do this, check the voltage at the terminals of the engine compartment. If it is, then the cable is intact. Otherwise, you will have to replace it with a new cable.
If, when diagnosing a borehole pump, it turns out that everything is in order with the cable, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the electric motor. In this case, the product will have to be disassembled all the way to the engine compartment, remove the stator or rotor and rewind the winding.

To repair any pumping equipment with your own hands, you need to learn how to disassemble it. We will consider how to do this using the example of the "Water cannon" pump. Disassembly is performed in the following sequence:

Unscrew the perforated cylinder at the inlet pipe. This is a coarse filter that protects the product from sand and silting.
Next, all the washers, discs and "glasses" are dismantled from the shaft on the engine of the pump unit with their own hands. To make it easier for you to put the removed products back in the desired order, lay them side by side in the order in which you remove them.

It is important to know: the impeller consists of 16 removable parts, not counting the same anti-friction washers. Therefore, it is very important to follow the sequence of removal and reinstallation of all elements.

After that, it is necessary to dismantle the engine retaining ring from the "Vodojet" borehole pump. This part covers the engine compartment cover. To do this, you need to use a mallet. With the blow of this tool, we move the engine down, after that we pull the cord and return it back. After such manipulations, the O-ring will move. After that, the retaining ring is shifted with a screwdriver towards the body. As a result, the stopper will skew and it will be easy to remove it.
Next, we disconnect the wiring, open the engine compartment cover.After that, using a mallet and a screwdriver, you can remove the motor from the case.

As a result of such disassembly, the impeller and all its constituent elements can be easily washed and cleaned. The engine can be taken for diagnosis and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning and repairing, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most pumping products from different brands often face the same problems. We will list the most common ones and indicate what needs to be done to troubleshoot the problem:

Video instruction for the repair of the Vortex borehole pump:

For different types of engines and different brands of wire = PETVP, PVDP winding wires for electrical equipment with special working conditions (submersible pumps).

PETVP - a wire with a copper rectangular wire enameled with polyester varnish. The coating of the wire with HDPE allows the wire to be immersed in oil or water. It consists of polyphenylene oxide or polystyrene modified polyphenylene oxide and contains an insulated conductor over which a two-layer liquid-resistant coating is applied.

The PVDP wire is designed for stators windings of submersible water-filled electric motors that operate for a long time in the water of artesian wells at voltages up to 660V AC.

PSDKT-L are copper and aluminum winding wires with fiberglass and glass-polyester insulation glued and impregnated with heat-resistant varnish (TU 16.K71-129-91, TU 16.K71-257-96) Scope of PSDKT-L: Designed for the manufacture of electrical windings machines, apparatus and devices. Specifications: Minimum ambient temperature during wire operation up to -60 ° С

It already depends on you, the process of repairing them is more laborious.

Take first, make one and see if it is profitable or not, it may be profitable for one, others do not want to get involved and I have a lot of troubles. If no one makes them near you, then you can take a chance. And I practically have not met the literature on them, if there is someone who can share it.

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Site Admin

The world is rotting, people are being sold. Therefore, just in case, doubt everyone.

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Site Admin

The world is rotting, people are being sold. Therefore, just in case, doubt everyone.

I have been repairing submersible pumps for many years, at home.
Most of the repairs have to be made on the ETsV-6 pumps of 6.3 m3 and 10 m3.
The work is very profitable and not difficult. The cost of repairs is half the cost of a new one.
I work with my son or wife. You need to reel together.
Livonian pumps are reeled up at once with a double wire, (then the end of one of the two wires is connected to the beginning of the other - a phase winding is obtained)
How it's done?
We measure the wire per phase.
Cut into 2 parts.
We put it in 2 wires.
We find the middle of the double wire and from this middle we first wind a small coil 2-11, then a large 1-12.
We turn the pump over.
We wind the second half of the phase. First a small coil, then a large one.
The phase is ready. Other phases are done as well.

For the convenience of winding, we wrap the end of the double wire with tape.
You can wind it by passing the wire from one side to the other through the groove hole. Or it is possible through two grooves at once - passed it through the groove, wrapped it around the coil, which the partner holds on the axis, then passed it into the other groove. He tightened the wire, then again and again. The wire is made shorter each time and the winding speed increases.
It takes me 1.5 hours for the phase. Competitors claim to do it in 0.5 hours.

The Liven pump moves very easily, because the grooves (holes) are half-empty. But still, there are some rules to follow.
First, it is necessary to insert the wire over the wires already wound in the groove (in the upper part of the groove) and leave the groove in the upper part. This will serve as a guarantee that the wires in the groove will not cross (although if they do, it’s not scary) And the winding will look prettier.

When you wind the phase, put the pump stator on rubber in some kind of basin, and pour water into the stator. Strip the ends off the sheath and check with a megometer. Insulation resistance to the case and water should be infinite for the PPT-V-100 wire. By the way, this is the best wire. Enameled wire with polyethylene insulation is much worse. Worse, if only because if it is damaged somewhere, it is very difficult to find the place of breakdown. The enamel retains some resistance during testing, but breaks down rather quickly during use.

It is much easier to find a breakdown of the PPT-V-100 wire - you put suspicious loops in a basin, fill it with water and apply a voltage of 2.5 thousand volts to the wire. Where the wire is pierced, you will see a slight sparking underwater.
In order to eliminate the breakdown of the wire - use ordinary tape - somewhere 10-8 mm. width. Wrap it once, twice and that's enough. The length of the winding is 4 cm. The main thing is to make sure that the adhesive tape is of high quality - sticky.

The circuit is welded using 12-30 volts. One end of the wire with twisted wires. The other end is on an ember from a thick round battery. With this charcoal we melt the twisted ends of the joint.

If the pump has run for more than a year, then you are unlikely to simply separate it from the electric motor.
Therefore - boldly break and pull out the plastic filter grill to get to the coupling. (This grid is not needed if there is no debris in the water in the well). Then make a small anvil out of a rectangular hammer by welding it with a sharp edge to the wide base. Putting an anvil underneath the sleeve, tap it in a circle with a hammer, i.e. flare it. Then unscrew the 4 bolts securing the pumping part. Try to separate the pump with coupling from the motor shaft. Doesn't it go? Then we put it on the anvil with a sleeve. From above, we rest against the clutch with a chisel and beat it with a barbaric hammer. At the same time, the assistant holds the pumping part. As a rule, the coupling is half a millimeter long, but slides off the motor shaft.
In order to remove the coupling from the pumping part, a flaring tool and a stripper are used.

The engine can be easily disassembled - 4 studs are unscrewed at the top and 4 at the bottom. The bearing plates are pulled out. Then 5 mm inward. the retaining rings are pressed in to pull out the retaining rings. Then the fastening rings themselves are pulled out. To make the process go easily, pulling out the rings, tap the stator with a hammer.
Remains a stator with a winding. Cut off the ends and the star. We check for resistance in phases. If the phase is intact, then we unwind it. It will be useful to us.
If the phase wires do not unwind, because they are stuck together, then we cut them in the lower part, straighten the slightly cut ends and pull them out through the upper part with our hand or pliers.
Having pulled out the wire, we take out the sleeves. We inspect and clean the grooves if necessary. New sleeves can be cut from thin oilcloth, but old ones can also be used.

Liven engines have a rather small gap between the rotor and the stator, so it sometimes gets clogged with silt or a layer of scale is deposited on the rotor, so the pump can jam during operation. Therefore, sometimes you have to knock the rotor out of the stator with a sledgehammer using VD-40 and devices.

This article will consider the options for malfunctions that may occur in the ETsV electric pump, as well as consider ways to eliminate them.

And so the ETsV pump is used to lift water from a well, to provide water supply to a house, an enterprise, and is also used in irrigation systems.

The ETsV electric pump is a unit consisting of an electric motor, a pumping part, a valve, a conductive wiring, a protective casing, a protective grid and other auxiliary units.

And so let's take a closer look at what malfunctions can occur in the ECV pump and how to fix them.

1) Malfunction: ECV pump does not work

The reasons why the ECV pump may not work:

Fuses in the control station may have blown;
The relay of the alarm voltage or current may have been triggered;
There is no power supply to the pump;
The starter is damaged;
The conductive wire is damaged or the unit itself is damaged;
Damage in the control circuit or an open circuit;
The dry start protection system may have worked, as a result of which the unit is turned off

Ways of troubleshooting by which the ETsV pump may not work:

Fuses should be replaced. If the fuses blow out repeatedly, then you need to check the power supply network, check the current or voltage wire;
The relay should be switched on again;
You should contact your electricity supply company;
Replace the starter or if it is possible to repair it;
Replace the drive or unit, repair;
Check the power supply circuit;
You should check the water level, if the water level is within the permissible norm, then you should check the dry-start protection system, it may require repair.

2) Malfunction: There is no water supply, the ECV pump is working

The reasons why this malfunction may occur:

The valve is closed;
The check valve may have stuck in the closed position;
The mesh is clogged in the suction part of the unit;
Unit damaged

Ways of troubleshooting by which the ETsV pump may not work:

The valve should be opened;
Replace or flush the valve;
Remove the pump and carry out work to clean the mesh;
Repair the unit or replace

3) Malfunction: Nasos ETsV works with reduced performance

The reasons why this malfunction may occur:

The water level has dropped more than expected;
The valves in the discharge pipeline are closed or partially clogged;
The discharge line is clogged with dirt;
The unit check valve is partially clogged with dirt;
The unit and the column are partially clogged with dirt;
The unit is damaged;
The pipeline is depressurized

Ways of troubleshooting by which the ETsV pump may not work:

Increase the immersion depth of the pump, perform throttling in the pressure line, it is also possible to replace the pump with another one, which has a lower flow;
Flush and repair valves, if required, replace;
Perform work on cleaning the pressure pipeline or replace;
Remove the pump outside, flush the valve or replace it;
Remove the pump outside, dismantle the unit, flush it, and also flush the column;
Replace the pump or repair;
Check the pipeline and repair

The ETsV pump should be selected in such a way that the flow rate of the well for water is greater than the nominal flow rate of the unit (not less than 25%).

To ensure proper cooling of the el. of the ETsV pump motor, the lower part of the unit should be located in such a way that it would be at least 1 meter higher than the well filter zone.

Should not exceed the maximum immersion value of the nominal head, the height of the water rise.

Our drilling company offers the following services:

In recent years, the number of wells in personal and summer cottages has increased tenfold. And the point is not only that the price of drilling work has significantly decreased and drawings of homemade drilling rigs have become available thanks to the Internet. Many are attracted by the fact that there will always be water in the house, regardless of malfunctions in the water supply networks, but it is worth remembering that from time to time you will have to repair borehole pumps, because the equipment resource is not infinite.

In the photo: regardless of the size of the equipment, the repair process is the same for all models

As you know, any breakdown is much easier to prevent than to eliminate. That is why the ideal option would be preventive examination and maintenance at least once a year, but it is better to do this twice - in spring and autumn.

This type of work is quite simple:

The pump must be removed from the well, even this work can be quite difficult, especially if the well is deep and the equipment is heavy. In this case, it is better to call an assistant.
After removing the unit, inspect the suspension cable and electrical cable. Next, you should check the body for damage, dirt and corrosion centers.
It is better to start the pump for a short while and listen - any extraneous sound will indicate a malfunction.

Periodic inspection and cleaning greatly reduces the chance of malfunctions. In addition, if sand and silt are present on the pump, this is direct evidence that it is necessary to shake the well, otherwise siltation will lead to pump breakdown, which is unlikely to be eliminated.

In order to better understand how to repair a borehole pump with your own hands, it is worth understanding the causes of certain malfunctions and understanding the most typical problems. Of course, anything can break during use, but there is a certain set of so-called "diseases" that appear most often.

Important! No matter how the seller convinces you that some pump is not worse than a model, the cost of which is 2 times higher, most often the more expensive models are much more reliable and durable.

Don't be scared by the complex schemes of the units, in practice everything is much simpler.

We note right away that most often the unit fails due to the owners' own negligence. Many of them, purchasing a pump, do not even read the instructions, which spell out the rules of use and basic safety measures.

Moreover, the vast majority of users run equipment down the well and do not get it out until it breaks, which could have been avoided by taking it out for inspection at least once a year.

But even with a responsible attitude, malfunctions can occur, consider the most common of them:

The equipment works "dry", this happens if the pump is suspended too high or in the process of water supply the level in the well drops very much. The mechanism must work with water - it serves as a coolant and lubricant, without it, overheating and jamming, and sometimes melting of plastic parts, occurs.
Using a pump that is too powerful, in this case the intake is too intense, and sand is sucked from the bottom, which can severely damage the main pumping part - the pump impeller.

Sand can destroy even a cast iron impeller

Power surges and surges can damage the capacitor and other electrical parts. Voltage stabilizers should be used.
And, finally, common wear and tear of units can be the cause of breakdowns.

The most common causes of malfunctions are:

Accumulator and check valve malfunctions - these units are not included in the system, but if they do not work correctly, the pump is not protected from pressure drops and, most likely, will receive a water hammer.
Erosion and damage to impellers, shafts and other moving parts.
Winding and capacitor faults.
Clogging of the system with sand and silt.

Here's what you can see by disassembling the pump, you must admit that it will not be able to work for a long time

If you do not have any abilities and have never seen even the simplest devices disassembled, it is worth contacting specialists. It is worth doing the same in the absence of at least a minimum set of plumbing tools. But, if you have at least basic knowledge and a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, you can try to do some work yourself.

The simplest diagram of the pump device

Here is the simplest guide for diagnosing and repairing a submersible pump:

Before starting any work, it is worth turning on the pump to the network and listening, if there are any sounds - clicks, buzzing, and so on, work can be continued, but if there is complete silence, then, most likely, a magnet burned out, which cannot be repaired gives in. This equipment is recyclable.
Next, the lower part of the case is removed. In this type of pump, the motor is single-phase, it has two windings - starting and working. A capacitor is mounted in the starting circuit, the capacity of which can be up to 40 μF. But first of all, the shaft and blades or impellers are checked - everything should rotate freely and not be damaged.
A jammed shaft indicates a burned out stator winding. It is completely replaceable, although in some models this will not be possible and the pump will have to be thrown away. If everything rotates and is not damaged, the lower part is assembled back.

The stator is the outer, fixed part of the pump winding

Before disassembling the upper part, place the housing vertically and secure it, otherwise oil will leak out of the engine. Under the cover, you will see some wires and a capacitor.

Capacitor and wires are located under the pump top cover

First, using a tester or ohmmeter, the resistance of the starting and working windings is measured (usually the operating value is 15-20 ohms, the starting one is 30-40) - if the device shows infinity on any of them, then there is an open circuit in it. Low resistance values are evidence that the winding wires are short-circuiting each other.
And, finally, if all the data is normal, the capacitor is checked. If the reason is in it, then it should be replaced with a similar one.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, carrying out all of the above measures allows you to independently repair the equipment, avoiding significant expenses. As you can see, the work is quite simple, you do not need an electrical engineering education to carry it out - it is important to carry out all the work accurately and scrupulously.

In addition, you will be able to find out if the pump is repairable, and you will not spend money on diagnostics in the workshop, because even if the pump is not suitable for restoration, you will be charged money.

Advice! Remember that the pump casing is permanently submerged in water, so check that the gaskets are in the correct position and condition when assembling.

Do not be afraid to disassemble the pump, take into account our recommendations, and you can easily cope with this task. The video in this article will clearly show some of the steps in the process.

Video (click to play).