Pump gur Ford Mondeo 4 DIY repair

Although they say in the Ford Center that the power steering pump is not repaired - “everything that one person has done - the other will always be able to make out”.

And if with hands - then collect.

Disassembled through the "ass", ie. behind.

The pulley could not be unscrewed even once. In the first case, the shoulder blades are stuck.

We disassemble, fill everything with acetone and forget for twelve hours, or better for a day.

We wash it by hand without using metal brushes and any screwdriver-scrapers - the surfaces of the blades and the shaft with grooves are polished.

If you disassemble it, you will see. If the oil seal does not run, then it is better not to touch it.

The oil seal fits perfectly from the VAZ - 08.09, it is called the gear selector oil seal. Just choose a “branded” VAZ or imported one.

Once put a fake - drip after 10 days.

This stuffing box is designed for translational movement, and I put it on rotation. I drove about 7,000 km on a new one - while holding it.

The translational movement of the shaft was eliminated by placing a circle cut from a plastic canister about a millimeter thick

The procedure for replacing the power steering pump pulley Ford Mondeo 4, petrol engines 2.0 / 2.3.

The video shows in detail the procedure for removing the pulley from the old power steering pump and installing it on the new (remanufactured) power steering pump of the Reikanen brand.

The article number of the Reikanen pump shown in the video: P0719Y

This pump is supplied without a pulley and we are asked many questions how it is possible to remove a pulley from an old pump and rearrange it to a new one without damaging the pulley itself.

Video Replacing the power steering pump pulley Ford Mondeo 4 channel Reikanen

1. Remove the right wheel arch liner (see Removing and installing mudguards for wheels and wheel arch liners).
2. Remove the accessory drive belt (see Checking and replacing the accessory drive belt).
3. Disconnect the power steering pump return line from the reservoir, drain the working fluid from the power steering reservoir and the hose into a suitable container.
4. Disconnect the return line from the power steering pump and remove it.
5. Disconnect the line bracket from the vehicle body, marking the position of the bracket to facilitate further installation.
6. Disconnect the steering box pressure line from the bracket.

7. Remove the fastening screw ...

8… .and disconnect the support bracket for the lines from the steering box.
9. Open the bracket and remove it.

10. Remove the mounting bolt ...

11… .fold the lock and disconnect the pressure line from the steering gear.

12. Remove the two lower bolts securing the power steering pump (Fig. 8.3).

Rice. 8.4. Upper mounting of the power steering pump: 1 - block of the wiring harness of the pressure sensor in the hydraulic system of the power steering; 2 - bolts of the upper mounting of the pump

13. Disconnect the block 1 (Fig. 8.4) of the wiring harness from the pump, unscrew the two bolts 2 securing the pump and remove the pump assembly with the pressure line of the steering gear.
14. Clamp the pump in a vice with soft metal jaws, unscrew the nut securing the pressure line and remove the line.
NOTE.
The tightness of the connection of the pressure line with the pump is ensured by a Teflon gasket, which must be replaced every time the connection is disassembled.
Since a special tool is required to install the seal, we recommend that you do not disassemble the connection unless it is necessary.
15. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and bleed the air from the power steering system (see Bleeding the power steering system).

Greetings Dear experts.

Three days ago, an unpleasant story happened, they poured power steering fluid into my barrels, some kind of fluid, it is very likely that it was brake fluid. I would not have known about this further if not for one very unpleasant circumstance.

Literally in a day (I travel quite a lot, at least 100 km a day.) I noticed that the steering hydraulics are not coping with the task set to it, namely, at first it was difficult to turn the steering wheel a little, somewhere else in a day, i.e. Yesterday the hydraulics went completely crazy.

The problem looks like this:
1) At idle, the steering wheel cannot be turned, the pump does not detect its presence in any way.
2) When speeding up at idle, the pump starts to function little by little, i.e. the steering wheel starts to spin much easier, somewhere at speeds from 2500-3000 the pump works perfectly. Moreover, it works even better when the car does not stand still, but let's say while driving, it does not matter to switch to the first or the second, to turn off a little, the speed of 15-20 km / h is simply gorgeous to turn the steering wheel, if you reset it to neutral on the go (the car moves on at about the same speed), then the pump immediately ceases to function, it is worth pumping out (at idle when driving, about 3000 rpm) and lo and behold, the hydraulics plow.
3) There is one more nuance, I don’t know, it can be somehow connected (to be honest, I don’t quite well imagine the whole principle of this scheme in detail). The idle sensor (that little gadget with a wire) holds very weakly, I don’t understand how it generally held itself before, it’s very likely that something broke off, and now it doesn’t sit tight and sometimes pops out with bumps, it seems like yesterday it was possible to fix it a little, it’s holding on for now ...

Please tell me what to do. I would like to get by with a little blood. The new pump is a whole story and will cost a pretty penny.
And in general, it may not be the pump? Maybe with the sensor what? Or else where is the problem?
And another request, tell us or give a source (better tell me if it's not difficult) where you can read about the principles of operation of this mechanism (the hydraulic pump, its connection with the steering, and what is the role of the idle speed sensor in this process).

PS: Just a huge thank you in advance.
ZZY: Poyuzal search, I read a lot of everything on the forum, the result was close to zero on all points. Save-help.

ZZZY: Yes, I forgot to clarify. Naturally, I changed the liquid, and added a little additive to it, so that the pump was cleaned in case of something.

So, I decided to disassemble the power steering. It took me a whole day. I arrived at the garage at 9-30, left at 20-00. But this time includes 2 hours of waiting until the TORX 40 key is delivered to me. The pressure line is attached to the power steering with a bolt with such a head, I did not pay attention to it right away, as a result I lost time for this, it's good that not all shops are closed on Sundays.

1. We put anti-rollbacks under the rear wheels, jack the right front wheel, remove it, put supports under the body, remove the jack.

2. Remove the right front wheel arch liner. There are no pitfalls, everything is simple.

3. Remove the belt. To do this, take the head at 15 and the crank. Place the tension roller on the bolt, pull clockwise and remove the belt. It's simple, I easily coped with it and put it on too without any questions, without any clamps there, if necessary, you can put a piece of pipe on the knob to increase the lever.

4. I immediately wanted to replace the belt. Since a pebble got into the video and cut off one stream on it.

So gobbled up the stream on the belt

But after I removed the video to remove this pebble, it turned out that the bearing on it had already been broken, the backlash was simply unacceptable. But since I did not have a roller or a bearing, I had to leave this venture for later, I didn’t put a new belt on either.

Idler roller with bad polish bearing 6203 2RS

Idler with excellent Canadian bearing 6203 2RS

Separately, it is necessary to criticize Ford for choosing bad suppliers of components.The bearing on this roller was from a well-known Japanese company NSK, but made in Poland. Guys, the bearing should last at least twice as long, but not 85000 km. In short, anrespect for Polish bunglers! By the way, on the bypass roller (I also took it off for inspection) there is a bearing from the well-known Japanese company NTN, but made in Canada. This is what I understand, zero backlash, excellent, as it should be. Bearings in both rollers are the same 6203 2RS.

6. We pump out the slurry from the barrel using a sprayer, which is screwed onto the bottle and costs 20 rubles in the store.

Then we remove the hoses from the power steering reservoir and remove the reservoir itself. Everyone writes that the plastic fitting-corner of the return hose can be removed easily, but I was worn out with it, apparently everything in it was so stiff that I barely took it off.

7. Remove the feed hose from the power steering itself.

8. Loosen the three bolts of the power steering. We unscrew the bolt securing the pressure line and disconnect the line tube from the power steering. Attention! Need 40 TORX key!

9. Finally unscrew the power steering bolts to the engine and remove the power steering from under the hood.

10. We disassemble the power steering. Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the cover,

gently tap the lid with a hammer until it moves away from the body, remove the lid. We contemplate the insides of the pump.

We note right away that there is abnormal wear on the cover. We draw a finger along this place, if burrs are felt, then we remove them with a file.

Now we are looking for this ill-fated valve. Look at the picture.

It can be seen that it really stuck open, that is, the bypass hole is clearly located at the bypass hole of the drain line.

11. Remove the plug of this valve. To do this, it is better to temporarily screw the pump cover back so that dirt does not get inside, and so that the insides do not end up on the floor. The valve plug is unscrewed with a 22 key. We put the key and gently hit it with a hammer until the bolt moves. By the way, in my opinion, the designers placed this valve unsuccessfully - if its plug were sticking out, then the valve could be revived without removing the power steering. That is, literally a few minutes. And the plug that we see on top of the power steering, on which it is advised to knock, there is a spring supporting the pump stator. Therefore, knocking on it is useless. So, we removed the plug, we see the plunger inside, we try to push it with our finger - it does not go, because it is jammed.

Stuck valve plug

We take a suitable piece of iron and tap on the plunger, it will wedge quickly enough.

Plunger in normal (closed) state

We take out the plunger and examine it. There are several holes in his body through which the slurry flows. If you run your fingers over them, you will feel burrs at the edges of these holes. This is the reason for the jamming! While there was a liquid, the plunger slid inside the valve, as soon as air entered, there was no lubricant, the burr cut into the wall of the channel and the plunger jammed. Next to one of the holes we see wear - there is no burr, everything is smooth, because it has worn out itself in the process of work and such a mark remains, and this means that the shavings went into the slurry with wear and settled on the filter in the tank.

Plunger. Scuffing along the edge of the hole is the result of self-grinding of the burr

In this regard, I am perplexed, why the hell weren't the burrs removed after drilling the holes in the production of this part? This is not even a marriage, it is either a violation of the production technology, or the technology was developed incorrectly, the stupidly petty process engineer forgot to add this operation to the flow chart, and now all the power steering pumps come with this joint. In short, wherever a roughness is felt with a finger, we grind it carefully with a file, lubricate the plunger with Mercon, insert it into the valve body and check the stroke of the plunger. Must walk very easily. We collect the valve.

12. Then I decided, since I had disassembled the power steering, it was necessary to look at all its insides. Admire. The plug, which is visible from above the power steering when you open the hood, under it is just a spring that supports the pump stator. Because the stator is not exactly a stator, but floating.That is, the size of the injection chamber can vary.

The plug on top of the pump only gives access to the backing spring. It's useless to knock here.

This is necessary for the stator to smoothly change its eccentricity relative to the rotor during operation of the pump; accordingly, the volume of the pressure chamber changes, thus regulating the generated pressure. In short, it is an automatic pressure regulator.

Some parts of the pump.

Some parts are missing in this photo. For example, the insides of the valve: you have already seen the plunger, and of course there is also a spring. Two more obvious details are the pulley and bearing. Perhaps there is nothing else there.

13. Putting everything together in the reverse order. Important note. Keep clean. All the insides of the power steering are precision parts, that is, they are made with special precision, they love cleanliness and liquidity. Before assembly, generously lubricate all the parts with Mercon, well, or with green slurry, depending on what you pour. Put a couple of drops into the opening of the bypass valve.

14. Now let's move on to the tank. The pictures show how I implemented it. The suction hose came up without any problems, but the return line does not fit, or rather, it might have climbed, but I was afraid that it might start cracking later. Therefore, I bought a metal adapter-fitting with a diameter of 10 mm and a piece of high-pressure hose also for 10 mm, well, and clamps. This hose, too, of course, with difficulty put on, but then it is easy to replace it if that. By the way, I did without a corner, since this hose bends enough without kinking.

The junction of the return hose with a piece of hose going to the drain connection barrel.

Mounting the tank is generally nowhere easier. I bought a thick plastic tie and pulled it to the standard bracket. I inserted a piece of cardboard between the tank and the bracket. In principle, everything looks like it should be, only the tank is slightly crooked, because the supply hose is slightly short and pulls the tank towards itself from below.

I decided to remove the power steering pump and sort it out, as it made very sad sounds during operation.
To remove the power steering pump you need:
1. Remove the front right wheel
2. Hang up the engine
3. Unscrew the 6 nuts securing the engine bracket (18)
4. To unscrew the last nut, it is easier to remove a part of the intake manifold. (see fig. 1 red marker)

5. Remove the bracket, unscrew the clamp of the power steering pump inlet pipe, drain the fluid from the tank
6. Using a 14 wrench clockwise, loosen the tension roller of the ribbed belt, remove the belt
7. Unscrew the 2 brackets securing the high pressure pipeline (from the pump to the rail, see Fig. 1 green marker)
8. Unscrew 3 bolts on “10” through the holes in the power steering pump shaft.

unscrew the bolts through this hole

It is best to unscrew it with such a key.

9. Unscrew the last bolt at “10”

it was unscrewed with a flat spanner wrench

10. Pull out the power steering pump, unscrew the high pressure pipe union with a 18 key.

Next, we carry the pump to a warm place (it is desirable that there is a vice in this warm place). We grip the Pump in a vice and begin to disassemble it:
1. First you need to remove the retaining ring. To do this, through the hole with an awl or a thin nail, we fix one end of the stopper, at the other end we knock a thin screwdriver. We take out the stopper
2. Clamping the pump in a vice, take the back of the gas wrench and open it.

3. Take a screwdriver and remove another retaining ring

4. We take out the shaft together with the pulley
5. Prykovyrnuv screwdriver, take out the oil seal.

The oil seal was taken from the VAZ in the store for cans. It is called "gear selector shaft oil seal"

6. We take out all the giblets on a clean cloth

Then wipe everything off, insert a new oil seal and reassemble in the reverse order, without confusing anything.

The work seems to be not hard, but I matured mentally for a long time. In addition, I did not know which oil seal to buy. The car is already old, but on the Internet I did not find information from experienced owners about replacing the oil seal on a diesel engine, or maybe I was looking badly. On gasoline versions of Mondeo, a 16x30 oil seal is installed in the power steering pump (if you believe monduvodam).I bought this one - CORTECO / 12013061B. Yes, and the liquid in the hydraulic booster would also not hurt to replace it. Ižku chose the cheapest one that was offered and was suitable for the purpose.

The culprit of this record in all its glory

The pump took off quickly. I tried to drain the old slurry from the system to the maximum. I tried, of course, to drain it into a jar, but it turned out just to drain, shit wherever the current is possible.
He took the pump to the "operating table" and started.

A crack was found on the pulley, this is a disease for them.

I went before with a crack and will continue to ride. Hopefully it will not progress.
I climbed to the oil seal through the pump's ass so as not to touch the already tired pulley.

From this part, you need to pull out the retaining ring using a thin object, like an awl. There is a hole on the side, we run an awl there, press and the ring comes out. Then, by lightly tapping the hammer on the body, remove the cover

Everything I did when disassembling the pump seemed painfully familiar to me, but I chalked it up to the fact that all pumps are similar to each other. It turned out not to be. When he pulled out the inside of the pump and, turning the body over, saw the oil seal, all the secrets were revealed - the pump is one to one as on Safran 2.5.

Accordingly, the purchased 16x30 oil seal does not fit. If Corteco is again preferred, oil seal number 01020304B is required. Here I must say thank you to my wife, because I went to the car shop on the bus and brought what I needed.

Rinsed the tank and poured fresh slurry

I turned the steering wheel a couple of times from lock to lock on the muffled car (the wheels were hung out), then on the wound one. Now while I go and watch.

I'll tell you right away: the photos are not mine, they were not up to at the time of the repair, and the phone sat down at the right time.

Let's move on to the report.
To begin with, the background: somehow I discovered a slight fogging of the pump. Very small, the level in the tank did not go away at all.

But with the onset of cold weather, the power steering pump began to howl. You start up after parking and it started. As soon as the car warmed up, the nasty howl disappeared. This is due to the heating of materials and other physical crap. You can't live like that! And it was decided to deal with this problem. A simple replacement of the old tank with a washed power steering tank did not help (well, plus, when replacing the system, I aired a little. It's cold, you know, on the street). After the air got into the power steering system, it refused completely. Well, as they say, pan or disappear. Or a new pump or a bulkhead of an existing one.

To begin with, study the price ranges: a new pump of 22-25 thousand, a new refurbished by the plant 10-13 thousand, and of repairs from 13 thousand and above, and the maximum warranty period is 2 months.

Then, having studied the issue, I realized that it wouldn’t be worse and began to prepare for the repair on my own.
To do this, I dropped into Auto-49 and bought a set of gaskets 220 pcs. for 251 rubles,

O-ring gasket set

slurry GUR 1 781 003 (CHF color green!) I took from good people three cans per liter for 900 rubles in total.

At the same time, I grabbed a carburetor cleaner (cheap) so that all the snot was washed off, well, little things ... the clamps and the head are 22 long.

I asked the superiors for a warm box and began the process. I DIDN'T REMOVE THE PUMP FROM THE MACHINE.
To begin with, I hung it up in front of the car on tripods. Pull the tensioner out of the engine compartment (15 spanner spanner) and take off the drive belt (1 minute). Then he removed the right headlight, pumped out the power steering fluid, disconnected the reservoir. Then, with a 12 key, I disconnected the metal tube from the pump, through which the pump sucks in the slurry.

When this part is in your hands, you will see a gasket through which air is sucked into the pump. Hence the howl, and foam in the tank and all the trouble. We select the one you need from the set and stretch it instead of the old, no longer elastic pad. We install the tube in place. Fits tightly. We attract.
Let's move on.
We put a rag under the power steering pump so that nothing falls into the bowels of the car. Using a 22 spanner wrench, unscrew the plug, under which the bypass valve (plunger). We carefully take it out, it is with a spring. Try not to lose anything.

The content of the article:
1. Replacing power steering fluid in Ford Mondeo
2.Installing a power steering reservoir from the Volga in a Ford Mondeo
1. Fluid change

Belarusian club of Ford fans

Mikhail56 Apr 25, 2013 2:57 pm

Good day everyone!

In general, the problem is this, the pump hummed in the spring, but did not drive the bubbles into the tank, upon examination it turned out that the pump was a little wet, after changing the slurry, it began to drive bubbles into the tank and pour out more. There was a suspicion of either a fitting or a stiff hose from the tank that it passes at the junction with the pump. After dismantling the pump, they pumped air into it under low pressure and it turned out that in one place the gasket was poisoning, they began to disassemble, the bolts were rather loosely tightened. Now we are thinking of putting on a red sealant, but there are doubts as to what caused the gasket to push through. There is a version that the matter may be in the valve under the fitting, but it is not yet clear how it works and how to check it, whether it is jammed.

Actually, the questions are as follows, how to check the valve that is on the floor with a fitting for operability, and which side it is inserted back, tk. when I removed the spring and the valve dropped from it.

And such a question to those who disassembled the pump, I have small steps on the pump lid, as if the lid was not completely sanded, respectively, the lid does not fit snugly, is this just a feature of my pump or does everyone have such a step? In the photo, you can see the stripes a little, in these places this step.

Gochakov Mon May 06, 2013 11:33 pm

Mikhail56 Wed May 08, 2013 10:51 am

konstantin_xabenski Wed May 08, 2013 5:15 pm

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This is how many pumps I have disassembled; I have never seen bearings in any of them. There is a sliding sleeve in the pump!, And the pump hums due to wear of the vanes.

You are mistaken, in the back of the bushing, in the front bearing 6203. I don’t remember the size of the oil seal.

Disassembled the Toyota pump - no bearings, disassembled the Hyundai pump - no bearings; disassembled the reno pump - no bearings; disassemble the MAN pump - no bearings; disassemble the Scania pump - no bearings.

I didn't understand all the brands you listed, but Ford has a bearing.

04.07.2017 820

The question of how to replace the power steering reservoir (power steering) arises, as a rule, in the event of mechanical damage to the reservoir body, and sometimes replacement is made purely for aesthetic reasons. In this article, you will learn how to replace the power steering reservoir on a Ford Mondeo IV at home.

• New power steering reservoir Ford Mondeo IV (code: 1789056);
• Clean power steering fluid + empty container and syringe with a hose;
• A set of keys and screwdrivers + pliers;
• Jack (or better - two);
• Well, the presence of an assistant is also desirable.

1. We hang out the front end, a jack is well suited for this, it is important that the front wheels hang in the air, this is necessary for further pumping of the power steering system.
2. We remove the right headlight, for this it is enough to unscrew only 2 bolts and turn off the power block by pressing the latch.

1. Next, you need to pump out the old fluid from the tank. There are several options, you can detach the tank and pull it aside to try to drain the liquid into the prepared container. You can also go the other way, using a syringe with a hose, we pump out the liquid from the tank, after which we proceed to dismantle it.

1. After that, we remove the tank from the mount and take it to the side. Disconnect the hoses and lower them into a container prepared in advance.

1. We connect the supply hose to a new tank, then pour a new power steering fluid into it, and the hole in the tank for the “return” must be plugged. We ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel to extreme positions and watch how the new fluid displaces the old one. We repeat the procedure until clean hydraulic booster fluid flows from the “return” hose. More details about replacing power steering fluid in this article.

1. Be careful and make sure that there is always liquid in the tank during pumping, otherwise you risk airing the system. As soon as you notice that clean liquid has flowed from the "return", connect the hose to the tank and start assembling.
2. Fix the power steering reservoir in its original place and add fluid to the level.
3. After completing all the work, start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right, let the new fluid completely fill the system and displace the slightest air bubbles. Lower the car from the jacks and check how the steering wheel rotates when the engine is running. In this case, there should be no delays or difficulties, the steering wheel should rotate smoothly and without much effort.

This completes the process of replacing the power steering reservoir. We collect the tool, fix the headlight in place and enjoy the work done. If you liked the article, you can thank the author by sharing this article with your friends on social media. networks using the buttons located under the article. Thank you for your attention, I hope you were interested !? Leave your comments on this topic using a special form. Until next time at Ford Master. Bye everyone!

The procedure for replacing the power steering pump pulley Ford Mondeo 4, petrol engines 2.0 / 2.3.

The video shows in detail the procedure for removing the pulley from the old power steering pump and installing it on the new (remanufactured) power steering pump of the Reikanen brand.

The article number of the Reikanen pump shown in the video: P0719Y

This pump is supplied without a pulley and we are asked many questions how it is possible to remove a pulley from an old pump and rearrange it to a new one without damaging the pulley itself.

Today I tried to press out the pulley of the power steering pump, it did not work out, the pulley itself bends outward, if there was a gas burner at hand, it might have ripped off, but a good idea came after I bent the pulley, bought a used assembly

Can the belt whistle due to a worn out Gura pulley?

We changed the pump pulley in the yard with improvised means thanks to your video manuals, thank you very much!

site of home craftsmen, professional advice and useful information for everyone who loves tinkering and knows how to work with their own hands

(Ford Scorpio 2.0i N9D engine 1990)

Replacing the bearing of the power steering pump I had to do it after the knock appeared in the area of ​​the generator when the engine was started.

At rpm above 2000, the knocking disappeared, a faint hum appeared. After removing the belt and turning the power steering pump pulley, a noticeable bearing play was found. Since the price of a new pump is currently within $ 100, and the pump from disassembly just failed after six months of operation, it was decided to replace the bearing. Several sites for repairing the power steering pump were found on the network, but as always the pump turned out to be not the same as in the articles.
Dismantling the power steering pump:

1. With a 20 cm 3 syringe, pump out all the oil from the power steering tank.
2. Remove the drive belt by loosening the tensioner with a spanner wrench.
3. Unscrew the two bolts securing the power steering pump pulley and screw in two M8x50 bolts instead. These bolts are used to secure the pulley with a pry bar to unscrew the remaining two bolts. Remove the pulley from the triangular flange.
4. Loosen the clamp, remove the hose. Unscrew the union with the tube. An open-end wrench for 16, I had to use an adjustable one.
5. Unscrew the three M8 screws securing the pump.
6. Thoroughly clean the pump of oil and dirt.
7. Clamp the pump by the casing in a vice with the triangular pulley flange facing up. The flange is hot-fit. Some articles describe the removal method with a chisel and hammer. But with this method, you can ditch the pump without starting disassembly. Therefore, the flange was removed with a three-arm puller.
8. After removing the flange, turn the pump upside down and unscrew the six screws securing the pump cover.

This is the repair of do-it-yourself power steering pump bearing replacement can be considered complete. Nothing complicated - desire, a minimum of plumbing skills and increased attention.

If you are the owner of a highly aesthetic, functional and completely universal Ford Mondeo 4, power steering repair will rarely be needed, because the model is designed according to the principles of the highest reliability.Usually, when an urgent repair of the power steering pump on a Ford Mondeo 4 is needed, the steering wheel turns begin to cause difficulties, which, of course, is associated with the impossibility of normal control and with safety on the road. The price of a highly professional and filigree for Ford Mondeo 4 power steering repair will be quite significant if a complete change of the unit is required. However, if you turn to the most experienced craftsmen, when repairing a power steering pump on a Ford Mondeo 4, all available means can be used so that the costs are minimal.

If you own a Ford Mondeo 4, the repair of the power steering should not be postponed, because the consequences can be the most catastrophic. High-quality repair of the power steering pump on a Ford Mondeo 4 in "Autopilot" will cost a strictly minimal amount. Moreover, there are corresponding certificates for all work here. For a highly professional and most accurate for Ford Mondeo 4 power steering repair, a minimum time is required, but the procedure will return the car to perfect condition. After the execution of the order, you will receive an impressive warranty. When repairing a power steering pump on a Ford Mondeo 4, state-of-the-art equipment and technologies will be used.

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Power steering fluid in Ford Mondeo is an oil that transfers resistance from the power steering pump to the hydraulic cylinder, and also lubricates all friction pairs. The oil is circulated through the hoses connecting the power steering units, including the Ford Mondeo power steering plastic expansion tank, which has MIN and MAX marks to determine the level.

The power steering system itself is a Ford Mondeo hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering refuses, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, it will become heavy.

The power steering fluid level in Ford Mondeo can be determined by the marks on the power steering plastic expansion tank. During operation, the Ford Mondeo power steering fluid can flow in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.

Driving without fluid in a Ford Mondeo power steering puts the power steering pump at risk of damage, which costs a lot of money as it runs dry. As a result, he will receive serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in Ford Mondeo starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Ford Mondeo is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution would be to call a tow truck.

Intensive use of Ford Mondeo makes the power steering oil color darker over time, often with a burning smell. This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is fixed for a long time in the extreme position, until it boils, the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave the car when parking for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.

Fast prevention and inspection of the power steering Ford Mondeo includes: monitoring the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the drive belt tension on the Ford Mondeo power steering pump, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, smudges, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of the power steering elements.

There are two ways to change the fluid in the Ford Mondeo power steering:

• partial replacement of power steering fluid for Ford Mondeo.
• complete replacement of power steering fluid for Ford Mondeo.

For a partial replacement of the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, so much that at the end of the work it ceases to be dark.

Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Ford Mondeo:

1. We unscrew the cover of the expansion tank of the Ford Mondeo power steering.
2. With a syringe with a tube, we completely pump out the liquid from the power steering tank.
3. Fill the tank with new liquid, up to the MAX level.
4. We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
5. We turn off the engine and repeat point # 1 again until we get the desired result - light oil.

The next method for changing the power steering oil in Ford Mondeo will allow you to achieve almost 100% replacement.

Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Ford Mondeo:

Drive onto an overpass, or jack up the car so as to hang out the front automobile wheels of Ford Mondeo, in order to be able to easily rotate them with the engine not running.

Typical steering rack malfunctions Ford Mondeo-4, S-MAX, ES-MAX, Galaxy-2:

Steering racks are manufactured by Ford. Rack numbers:

Steering rack Mondeo-4 CA2 ('07 -) 1459747, 1462955, 1504781, 1514144, 1572577, 1749757, 1749762, 1749778, 1758591, 1789455, 1789460, 1789462, 1789466, 36000348

Steering rack S-MAX (CA1) ('06 -) 1488744, 1488745, 1488746, 1572552, 1749765, 1789438, 6G913A500CM

Steering rack Galaxy-2 (CA1) (06-) 1488744, 1488745, 1488746, 1572552, 1749765, 1789438, 6G913A500CM

Steering racks Mondeo-4 differ from steering racks S-MAX and Galaxy-2 only in the length of the "feather" (attachment to the input shaft) and the middle position. If you know how, the pen is rearranged (you can't knock!).

There are also differences in the amount of stroke of the shaft-rack, which can be limited by spacers (rings) before installing the rods. They can be installed / removed by unscrewing the rods.

Steering racks Galaxy-2, Mondeo-4 and S-MAX represent a very progressive development of the company Ford. It embodies the latest technology. For example, the original technique for welding steel pipes to a steel casing. The crankcase of the rack is all steel - this guarantees the absence of such malfunctions that have followed Ford racks all the previous time, such as wear of the distributor housing and wear of the cylinder crankcase. In addition, steel crankcases are cheaper than aluminum ones.

The bypass air tube between the anthers is now also tightly welded to the crankcase and cannot just come off like it did before. The quality of the metal is good, the teeth are hard, the processing is clean.

So why do these racks fail so often on post-warranty machines? As if by magic, immediately after the end of the warranty period, the “carriage turns into a pumpkin”.

You can talk about the secrets of the Ford company for hours. The talent lies not only in creating a car, but also in making it disappear overnight. This is the policy of the company and you can't do anything about it. If Ford makes a reliable car, they will stop buying them. Therefore, every self-respecting modern automaker introduces a delayed-action mine into the design of a car, which should work exactly by the hour. We are dealing with such “mines”.

The first weak point is the wear bushing

Everything looks good - the bushing rubs along the shaft-rail through a Teflon insert, which has a fairly large area and is initially installed tightly. The aluminum sleeve itself is of a self-centering design. It is easily inserted into the steel crankcase of the rack, locked with a spring ring, and during operation it tightly grabs it, it does not move, does not knock.

However, the INSERT MATERIAL is LOOSE AND NOT AS WEAR RESISTANT as we would like.

For example, Toyota teflon tabs do not wear out even after 200 thousand km. Allows high temperatures, chemically aggressive liquids (synthetic oils), shock loads.

The first thing that Hydrolab does when repairing steering racks Mondeo-4, Galaxy-2 and S-MAX - tidies up the outer sleeve of the shaft-rack. Read how to do it here.

The second (and most important) weak point is the self-pop-up plug of the biscuit

Forums are full of discussions about a kind of "cork", and in a scientific way - a plug of the steering rack cracker Mondeo, S-Max, Galaxy.

How much negativity she took upon herself. Why? Let's figure it out now.

We disassemble the Ford steering rack. And we find out that the plug of the biscuit is plastic! Please note - it is screwed in at the factory with deformation according to a special sealant, ensuring complete tightness.

Next, a retaining ring with antennae falling into the grooves is glued to it with glue - this is how the plug is protected from twisting and unscrewing.

All is well as long as the rail is in normal operation. Those. the power steering pump is working properly, the car is not towed with the engine turned off, there are no hits on the rail (no curbs and holes are found) and, finally, they do not try to replace the steering rods on the car!

The construction of the cracker and its plug (cork) is extremely weak and works to the limit. At any opportunity, the plug pops out, which leads to depressurization of the rail with all the ensuing problems. About the danger of moisture getting into the rail, read the article History about the steering rack boot or how to kill the rail quickly.

However, more often than not, the fact of the crackle plug popping out remains unnoticed by the owner. Therefore, these reiki have collected so many different faults in the heading of the article.

The most common case leading to repair of the steering rack S-MAX, Galaxy-2 and Mondeo-4 is an attempt to replace the steering rods without removing the rack from the car. On such cars as Ford S-MAX, Mondeo, Galaxy it does not work. During the unscrewing of the rod, a significant torque comes to the shaft-rail. The biscuit and its cork simply squeezes out. Read here how to properly unscrew / fasten the rods.

Ford calculated the design in such a way that the crackle plug can be squeezed out even with a sharp collision of the wheel with an obstacle or the application of excessive force to the steering wheel on a muffled car.

The biscuit itself is also made of plastic and wears out quickly.

The wear is visible both from the sides of the cracker, where it rubs against the crankcase, and from the side of the rack-shaft, which it presses.

Attempts to “tighten” the cracker (as they say, tighten the nut) again leads to the fact that the cracker cap breaks off and the rail is depressurized.

Crack and its steering rack plug Galaxy, S-Max and Mondeo are repaired by Hydrolab in the first place. The design is being improved, backlash, knocking and extrusion of the plug are excluded. More details here.

Should you change the steering rack plug yourself?

On the Internet, in clubs, homemade metal cork corks are sold. Most often these are turned parts - a threaded plug and a lock nut.

It's easy to buy - it's not easy to place correctly. First, you need a special sealant (regular silicone does not guarantee tightness).

Secondly, it is not realistic to adjust the cracker correctly on the machine. It will either be overtightened or dangling.

Thirdly, the wear of the biscuit itself will remain and the rack will continue to knock.

And finally, the last - the most important thing! In most cases, the cork cork is squeezed out even earlier. Moisture accumulates in the rail. Installing a new biscuit plug without drying the entire rail leads to the same sad result as driving with the plug unscrewed - the rail will rot.

So is it worth then to spend time, money on an independent replacement of the steering rack plug, or is it better to drive up to the specialists?

At repair of a steering rack Mondeo-4, S-MAX, Galaxy-2 at Gidrolab, all oil seals, bearings, rings, etc., worn parts are replaced with new ones.

Regarding the repair of steering racks, Gidrolab LLC works both with individuals on orders, and with organizations under a service agreement and non-cash payment.

Repair of a steering rack S-MAX, Galaxy and Mondeo in the Gidrolab company is well developed and takes about 4 hours, including removal-installation.

All work is given guarantee 13 months no mileage limitation.

At the same time, the quality and resource of the repaired rail is not inferior and even surpasses the new original one.