Pump kharkov DIY repair

The photograph shows the BCN pump with the corresponding electrical diagram in Fig. 1 of this pump. The electrical circuit of the BCN pump contains the following elements of the electric motor, these are:

1. rotor;
2. two stator windings;
3. capacitor;
4. pump body

and, accordingly, a three-wire cable, one of which is a grounding conductor.

The purpose of this type of pump is to irrigate a land plot in the country or in a private house.

rice. one

Consider the electrical diagram of Fig. 1 of the water pump:

The phase wire is connected through a thermal relay to a common terminal of the two stator windings. The neutral wire, as shown in the diagram, has a branching and then is connected to the working and starting stator windings.

The ground wire is connected to the metal housing of the water pump.

What are the possible malfunctions of the water pump? The reasons for the malfunction due to which the water pump may not work are as follows:

• Break in the wiring of the cable in a certain area;
• relay failure;
• capacitor malfunction;
• burnout of the stator windings of the electric motor;
• break in the cable wiring in connection with the plug;
• lack of contact with one of the stator windings

How to determine these causes of a malfunction? It is impossible to visually find the reason here. As with all household appliances, diagnostics are carried out with a device - a multimeter, where there are such functions to determine:

• capacitor capacitance;
• the presence of resistance in the stator windings;
• continuity of the cable from the plug to the connection of the cable wires to the electric motor.

If the stator windings of the pump electric motor burn out, the stator with the windings can be replaced with a new one, or it can be eliminated on its own, that is, rewind the stator. With this rewinding, both the cross-section of the copper wire and the number of turns are taken into account.

Replacing a burnt-out capacitor is carried out taking into account its corresponding capacity and the nominal voltage value for which the capacitor is designed.

Elimination of possible other reasons, you will not be difficult at all.

Consider the following type of water pump "Aquarius" BTsPE 0.5-32 and, accordingly, the electrical circuit for this type of pump Fig.2.

This example shows a submersible type of water pump designed for water supply from wells. The circuit in Fig. 2 generally differs from the first circuit in that there are two capacitors connected in series. The mains cable is connected via a detachable connection to the circuit of the water pump. The condensing box is made in an airtight manner. The stator, as usual, consists of two windings (working and starting). The water pump housing is connected to a protective earth.

Modern pump models are equipped with a float switch.

The figure shows clearly that at a low water level, the float switch opens the contacts of the supply line, with a sufficient water level, the pump will be in the on mode.

The pump is immersed in a container with water on a steel cable, the convenience of this type of pump is that you can fill all kinds of containers with water both for filling under drinking water, for irrigating a land plot and other needs.

The vibrating pump consists of parts such as:

• eyelet for a cable;
• power cable;
• suction hole;
• pipe branch;
• valve;
• piston;
• stock;
• emphasis;
• diaphragm;
• clutch;
• pump housing;
• shock absorber;
• anchor;
• frame;
• potting compound;
• coil;
• core.

Vibrating pumps Fig. 3 are also called electromagnetic.When current flows through the coil winding, an electromagnetic field is generated.

Under the influence of the electromagnetic field, the core is drawn in, connected to the rubber diaphragm. With the reciprocating movement of the rubber diaphragm, a constant flow of water is created in the device.

The device of this type of pump is simple in its design. With any overload, the core winding may fail. The repair of such pumps looks as if simplified and does not require a lot of knowledge in electrical engineering.

The vibrating pump consists of electrical fig. 4 and mechanical parts. An alternating magnetic field arises in the gap of the electromagnet, which drives the lever. The lever is connected to the bellows S, the bellows pulsates - it pumps liquid through the valves k.

Vibrating electromagnetic submersible electric pump

The principle of operation of a centrifugal pump

The centrifugal force of water in such pumps is created by rotating the impeller blades. The pump performance will accordingly depend on the rotor speed of the electric motor. That is, pressure energy is created here, a stream of water is pushed into the pipeline under pressure.

The electrical diagram of the centrifugal pump fig. 5 consists of:

• capacitor;
• network cable cord;
• starting and working stator windings
• thermal current relay.

Submersible centrifugal pump, NPTs caliber

Malfunctions include the same malfunctions in the description of the electrical circuit elements in Fig. 5.

Determination of the cause of an electric motor malfunction is carried out by a diagnostic method for individual sections of electrical connections, a method for such a diagnosis is given on this website.

Vortex pump device

The principle of operation is for example a vortex water pump built on the same principle as centrifugal pumps. In these types of pumps, the centrifugal force of the water is generated by the rotation of a metal flat disc with small blades. The design of the vortex pump is shown in Fig. 6.

The vortex electric pump consists of the following parts:

• top or bottom pump bearing;
• bearing spacer sleeve;
• blade outlet bushing;
• impeller wheel;
• diaphragm bushing;
• diaphragm;
• clutch;
• bearing;
• heel;
• thrust bearing.

Well, here we have got a quick idea of ​​electric water pumps.

This topic will have an addition in both electrical and mechanical parts.

Aquarius - vibration pumps produced by the Promelectro plant (Kharkov), popular in the CIS due to their affordable cost and high performance. High-quality equipment is sold under this brand - according to statistics, the proportion of factory defects does not exceed 0.12%. However, even this is not a guarantee of the absence of breakdowns during operation, and we will tell you about how to eliminate them in this article.

The publication discusses the design features of the Aquarius pumps, their typical malfunctions, and provides instructions on how to repair equipment with your own hands.

Plant "Promelectro" produces and supplies to the market 2 series of pumps Aquarius - BTsPEU and BTsPE. The differences between them are in the diameter of the case, for BTsPEU it is 95 mm, and for BTsPE it is 105 mm. This must be taken into account when choosing equipment, since the minimum clearance between the pump casing and the borehole walls should not be less than 5 mm.

According to the manufacturer, the actual service life of the pumps is 6000 hours, which is approximately equal to 6 years of operation. Moreover, during use, the units do not require any maintenance.

• Aquarius BTsPE 0.32-25U;
• Aquarius BTsPE 1.2-40U;
• Aquarius BTsPEU 0.5-63U.

The BTsPE 0.32-25U model is the most affordable pump among the entire product range, its cost is only 8 thousand rubles. This unit is designed for wells and wells with a low flow rate, its flow rate is 1.2 m 3 / h, the head is 25 m.

BTsPE 1.2-40U is sold at a price of 13 thousand rubles. This model is focused on pumping large volumes of water, it can be used for irrigation or water supply to several consuming points at the same time. The flow rate is 4.3 m 3 / h, the head is 40 m.

The BTsPEU 0.5-63U model in a narrow housing is designed for installation in wells with diameters of 100-110 mm. This is one of the most powerful in terms of head (63 m, flow rate - 1.8 m 3 / h) versions of the Aquarius pump, which is optimal for arranging an automatically pressurized water supply system. Price - 14.5 thousand.

According to technical requirements, the installation of a submersible pump should not be carried out at a point lower than 10 m from the water surface. Also, a distance of 40 cm between the bottom of the well or well and the body must be observed. If the water source is contaminated, then in order to protect the equipment from mechanical impurities, this distance must be increased. The pump must be completely submerged in water; dry running of the engine is unacceptable, as this leads to its rapid overheating. The temperature of the pumped-over liquid should not exceed 35 degrees.

Manufacturer's die on the pump

All equipment of the BTsPE and BTsPEU series are equipped with an outlet pipe with a diameter of 1 ″. To connect it, you need to use a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, it is important not to narrow the diameter of the outlet pipe. Use a pipe or hose rated for a working pressure not less than that of the pump.

The pump is installed according to the following algorithm:

1. A check valve is installed in the discharge branch pipes.
2. A pipe or hose is connected to the pump through a 32-1 standard coupling (included in the kit).
3. A safety cable is attached to the mounting lug.
4. With the help of a cable, the pump is carefully lowered into a well or well.

After installation and fastening, the first start-up is performed and the pressure water supply is connected to the source of water consumption. If, after starting, the pump pumps turbid water, it is necessary to let it run until clean liquid begins to flow. Turning off the pump while pumping a turbid wagon is fraught with problems with mechanical particles that have settled inside the hydraulic part, which can interfere with the normal operation of the valve.

During operation, the pump must not be allowed to operate at a performance level below the permissible limit of 0.36 m3 / h, as this leads to an increase in the temperature of the water inside the hydraulic part of the housing and, as a result, to overheating of the drive.

When connecting a hydraulic accumulator to the equipment, the volume of the expansion tank must be selected in accordance with the rated capacity of the unit. So, for pumps of the BTsPE 0.5 series, you need to choose a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 25-35 liters, and for models 61U and 100U - at least 50 liters.

If the pump will not be used for a long time after operation, it must be rinsed with clean water and dried before storage. When reused, the unit must be left in water for 30-60 m, after which it can be started.
to the menu ↑

to the menu ↑

Aquarius pumps are centrifugal devices that pump water by rotating an impeller attached to the shaft. The typical design of the units consists of a housing, inside which there is a rotation shaft with a drum and drive rings attached to it. The motor part consists of a stator, a rotor and a pair of ball bearings in an oil bath. The control panel of the unit is located on the power cord, which allows it to be controlled remotely.

Aquarius pump device

During operation, once a year, it is necessary to carry out routine maintenance of the pump, the purpose of which is to identify problems requiring repair. Maintenance consists of the following steps:

1. Check the case for rust and damage, and check for any loose screws.
2. Turn the rotation shaft by hand, it should have free play, without any jamming.
3. Disassemble the device housing and check the wear of the ball bearings and the absence of seizure of their travel.
4. Check the oil level in the bearing unit, fill the bath with lubricant if necessary.
5. Inspect the oil seal, it should not bleed oil, if this happens, the seal must be replaced.
6. When checking the internal components of the case, make sure there are no signs of overheating.
7. Pay attention to the impeller blades, during operation they can wear out or deform, which will lead to a decrease in the rated power of the pump. Wheels, if necessary, must be replaced.

Often, the failure of the pump to work is associated with clogging of its internal components, in which case it is necessary to disassemble and clean the device. This is done as follows:

1. The protective metal mesh is removed from the suction port. In old models, it is fixed with two screws, in new ones - by means of a clamp that can be pry off with a regular screwdriver.
2. We disassemble the device by unscrewing the screws that fix the case. We dismantle the engine, which is mounted on 4 bolts with 10 mm heads.
3. We remove plastic couplings and oil seals that act as seals. The motor part remains intact.
4. We wash the removed spare parts and clean them from plaque and dirt. With a 12 key, we turn the shaft, while simultaneously supplying it with a powerful stream of water from the hose. All accumulated mechanical particles must be removed.

After flushing and assembling the device, its work should be adjusted, but if this did not help, then more serious repairs are needed. You can do this with your own hands, however, if the pump is still under warranty service, it makes sense to deliver the equipment to a service center, where specialists will carry out repairs (self-disassembly of the pump will void your warranty). Service workshops of the company are located in cities such as Kirov, Yekaterinburg, Moscow and many other regional centers of Russia.

Among the frequent malfunctions of Aquarius pumps, we highlight:

• the unit is turned on does not pump water, but emits a hum - the reason: the bearing assembly is damaged or the rod is torn off (bearings can be bought and replaced with your own hands, while there are no rods on sale and repair in this case is only possible with a donor pump);
• the pump does not turn on when there is power - reason: warmed armature winding or damaged power supply wire;
• a strong level of vibration during operation - the reason: damage or wear of the compound (vibration-absorbing pad).

Difficulties in disassembling the pump can arise at the stage of removing the retaining ring, which in industrial conditions is dismantled using a special press. To remove the ring, you need to squeeze the pump housing, which will loosen its clamp, and try to pull the ring with pliers.

For watering a vegetable garden in the country, and residents of rural areas for all domestic needs, household electric pumps are often used. They are surface and submersible. Surface pumps include Agidel, BTsN, etc. For submersible pumps - the well-known "Kid" and the like, as well as submersible pumps. Sometimes they (pumps) have a bad tendency to fail, i.e. break down. Let's try to repair them ourselves, with our own hands.

Surface pumps.

The pump is silent, does not work.

The first thing to do is to check if voltage is supplied to the electric pump. Check that the electrical outlet is working. If the socket is working, unscrew the cover on the pump, where the power cord goes. Using a test lamp or an electric tester, check the presence of voltage on two contacts where the wires of the electrical cord fit. If there is no voltage, then we repair the power plug and the power cord. If there is voltage, then we check the capacitor and the thermal relay. We check the thermal relay using an electric tester (multimeter), setting it to the minimum resistance. De-energize the electric pump, connect the tester probes to the two contacts of the thermal relay. If the relay is working properly, the buzzer of the electronic tester will emit a sound signal. If there is no signal, the relay is faulty. Unscrew the relay cover, inspect it and clean the contacts. If you could not eliminate the malfunction, then replace the current relay.

Replacement of oil seals on the pump.

If water gets under the oil seal, it must be replaced. The electric pumps have a control hole, the appearance of water from which tells us that the oil seal is damaged. Let us consider the replacement of the oil seal using the example of the “HELZ” electric pump. We disassemble the pump itself. Unscrew and remove the cover. Then we remove the impeller. We unscrew the cover of the electric motor, which contains the oil seals (2 pcs.). The cover must be removed carefully without damaging the motor winding. Carefully knock out the oil seals from the cover. The main thing is not to damage the cover, the oil seals will no longer be useful to us. Both need to be replaced. Using a tube of the appropriate diameter, we install the first oil seal in the cover. This must be done with extreme caution, without damaging it. Lubricate it with graphite grease. We insert a plastic gasket. Then we install the second oil seal, lubricate it.

- We assemble the electric pump in the reverse order.

The electric pump began to “pinch” you (breakdown). Damage to the insulation.

Check that the electrical outlet, plug and cord are working properly. Unscrew the cover on the electric pump where the capacitor and thermal relay are located. Check them out. Inspect the insulation of the wires, the connection If you did not find anything, then the insulation breakdown occurred inside the electric motor. A workshop for the repair of household electrical appliances will help you.

Submersible electric pumps.

These pumps will be more difficult to deal with. They work in water, so they are not subject to home repairs. The only thing that you can do yourself is to check the serviceability of the plug and power cord. The electrical cord must be checked by unscrewing the cover on the electric pump, where the cord enters. You can check its serviceability using an electric tester or a warning lamp.

Repair of the Kharkov pump BTsN. Replacing the capacitor.

Water supply station. Pump repair.

No. 24 pump BTs 1,1-18 Boatswain HELZ replacement of the gland seal packing (part 4) repair

Repair of the Agidel pump. Replacement of bearings, oil seal and condenser.

Dismantling and repair of the pump BTs 1,6 - 20 "Aquarius". Oil seal check, reflector replacement.

No. 52 replacement of the gland of the BTsM pump (part 5) BTsN Aquarius repair

# Issue 81. Review and preparation for operation of the irrigation pump BC 1.1 20

No. 23 pump BTs 1,1-18 Boatswain HELZ replacement of the gland seal packing (part 3) repair

Replacement of the gland of the BTsN pump

BC-1,1-18 overhaul

No. 4 pump BTs 1,1-18 (part 2) repair selection operation electric motor

How to remove the impeller from the station pump?

No. 6 water pump BTsNM 3,5 / 17 (part 2) repair selection operation household

No. 2 pump BC 1.1-18 Vorskla Araks repair selection operation water centrifugal

How to make a fool in the service center. They take on work they don't do. For example, pump # BCM. Boatswain pump.

Pump BTs 1,1-18 BoTsman HELZ replacement of the mechanical seal (oil seal, cuff, seal). The video is split into two parts (parts 3 and 4)

The owner of this pump complained that it sometimes does not turn on, and when it turns on, it makes a lot of noise. In the process of repair, I replaced bearings, a capacitor, an oil seal, now the device works like new. #Household pump repair #Pump repairAgidel #PumpAgidel #Pump bearing replacement #Condenser replacement #Pump unstocks # Pump noise My second channel: WheelsPRO Anyone who wants to support the channel from the financial side. Individual gratitude will be expressed to each. Requisites of WebMoney-Z926017009588 R912865314165 Kiwi And those who can only brag and do not know how to speak humanly can watch a video shot specially for pontars. h.

Suddenly the household pump BTs 1.6 - 20 “Vodoley” stopped pumping water. In this video, a small overview of how you can disassemble and repair the pump yourself.

Pump "Aquarius" DIY repair

Pump "Aquarius" DIY repair

The construction of a full-fledged country house is impossible without the creation of a water supply system.Only in rare cases are homeowners able to connect to mains, and the vast majority are building autonomous water supply systems. The construction of an individual water supply system with a water source in the form of a well or a well will make it possible to be independent from utility providers.

Pump "Aquarius" DIY repair

In some cases, the design and construction of an autonomous water supply can be more expensive than connecting to a common water supply, but in the course of further operation you will receive water for various household needs almost free of charge.

A typical household water production and distribution system includes wells or wells with a submersible pumping device. Pumps manufactured by Vodoley are very popular among consumers. These are quite reliable devices, but sometimes the owner has to repair the "Aquarius" pump with his own hands.

On sale there is a wide range of pumping devices manufactured by the company "Aquarius".

The greatest demand among the owners of individual water supply systems is used by the submersible pumping borehole device "Vodoley" BTsPE 0.5-32U. It can be purchased at a price of 6590 rubles. Such a pump can supply water in a volume of up to 3.6 cubic meters per hour and is capable of lifting water to a height of 47 meters.

The most budgetary variant of the lineup is the "Vodoley-3" pumping device. It is designed for installation in wells, capable of pumping 0.4 cubic meters of water per hour and has a power of 265 watts. Such a pump will cost 1.6 thousand rubles.

A typical representative of the Vodoley pumping device range consists of two main structural parts:

• electric motorconsisting of a rotor with a starter and ball bearings operating in oil to reduce friction;
• actually pumping equipment - impellers with blades.

The pumping device pumps water using centrifugal force. The electric motor rotates the working shaft on which the blades are mounted. All components are housed in the body. When the power is supplied to the electric motor, the impeller starts to rotate. Water falling on the blades, under the action of centrifugal force, is thrown out to the periphery of the working vessel and, under pressure, enters the outlet of the pumping device.

The device of pumps Aquarius

The operation of the pumping equipment is controlled by automatic devices manufactured by Thermik from Germany, which ensures the reliability of its operation. To control the operation of the pumping equipment "Vodoley" in a number of models there is a remote control, which is connected with a flexible wire to the control unit.

In some models, it is also possible to regulate the pressure of the supplied water, which is carried out by turning a special valve located at the outlet section of the branch pipe.

Pumping devices "Vodoley" demonstrate uninterrupted operation for a long time, however, any complex technical equipment needs regular routine maintenance (the recommended frequency is 1 every 2 years), during which defects that need to be eliminated may be revealed.

Disassembly and cleaning of pumps

Algorithm for routine maintenance

1. We remove the pumping device from the well.
2. We carry out an external inspection of the equipment. Make sure there is no rust on the case.
3. Rotate the working shaft of the device with your hands. It should rotate without jamming.
4. If necessary, disassemble the pumping equipment and inspect the ball bearing assembly. They must support the free rotation of the working parts.
5. Check the oil level in the ball bearing assembly. Refill its level if necessary.
6. Check the oil seal, it must not let oil through, otherwise the device will run dry and may break.
7. Both during visual inspection and when checking internal parts, pay special attention to traces of possible overheating of equipment components.
8. Inspect the impellers of the pumping equipment. Over time, the blades can wear out and the pump loses its power. The impellers can be replaced if necessary.

Note! A significant part of the models of pumping equipment does not have a built-in filter designed to protect the device from sand and small stones, which are found in poorly treated well or well water.

Unscheduled repairs of the Vodoley pumping equipment are performed when the device is stopped.

When choosing a pumping device, be sure to correlate the quality and cleanliness in your well or well and the technical description of the equipment. The most that the pumping device "Aquarius" can do is to prevent large stones from entering with the help of a metal mesh located outside the device. There are no filters inside the equipment. Thus, the "sore point" of the "Aquarius" pumping devices is the clogging of their working units. In the event that the blockage has not disabled important parts, the pumping device can be repaired by yourself.

Cleaning of pumps "Aquarius". Algorithm

1. We remove the pump from the well or from the well.
2. We remove the protective metal mesh from the equipment. It can be attached in different ways. On equipment from the early production period, the mesh is fixed with two screws. On newer models, the mesh is fixed with a clamp, which is pushed off with a slotted screwdriver. On models with a large cross-section, the cable channel is additionally dismantled, which is a metal gutter.
3. We dismantle the electric motor of the pumping device. It is usually attached with four 10mm head bolts.
4. We dismantle the plastic couplings, which are designed to transmit the torque of the motor shaft to the impellers.
5. We lay out the disassembled device on a clean horizontal surface.
6. With the end part of the key (12 mm), carefully turn the working shaft, holding the upper part of the equipment with your hand.
7. After a slight rotation of the shaft, we direct a stream of water from the hose to the working part in order to rinse it and remove the sand particles. Turning the shaft, we continue to rinse the working units with water.
8. If flushing the shaft helped, the shaft began to rotate successfully, we assemble the device.

In the event of complex problems in pumping devices, it is best to contact service personnel. However, with minor damage, repair work can be carried out independently.

1. We remove the device from the well or well and disconnect it from the power supply.
2. With great effort we squeeze the body of the pumping device in the upper and lower parts, focusing on the lower edge of the equipment.
3. Using narrow nose pliers, dismantle the retaining ring. It is located in the groove. Compression of the pump housing causes the retaining ring clamp to loosen.
4. We dismantle all the impellers of the device one by one.
5. We remove the thrust cover on which the bearing assembly is located.
6. If necessary, we change the damaged parts of the equipment.
7. We mount all parts of the device in reverse order, checking the free rotation of the impellers.

We note right away that complete disassembly and assembly of the Vodoley pumping equipment in a domestic environment requires considerable effort. In specialized service centers, the dismantling of the component parts is carried out using a press.

Pumping devices "Vodoley" are reliable and efficient equipment capable of high-quality work for a long time without outside interference. Compliance with the required operating conditions, regular routine maintenance of pumping equipment will allow you to operate it for a long period. By carrying out regular cleaning of the "Aquarius" pump, you can avoid the appearance of more serious problems with the equipment.

The use of pumps in summer cottages and in private sectors is extremely popular; it is impossible to irrigate without a pump. The most popular models are water pumps, "Malysh", "Trickle". They are extremely cheap, consume quite little energy, at the same time they give out excellent pressure and can pump a large volume of water over long distances. Unfortunately, these pumps have a significant disadvantage, they are very unreliable, breakdowns are quite varied, traction breakage, valve destruction, but the most common malfunctions are associated with the power plant of the pump.

People living in private sectors or summer residents are most often quite talented in technical terms, and if your household pump has failed, you should not panic and call a repair team, repairs can be done with your own hands.

It does not matter what kind of breakdown occurs in this type of pump, in any case, the pump will need to be disassembled. First you need to unscrew the 4 bolts that tighten the halves of the pump body, the body consists of two halves. But with bolts in such pumps, huge difficulties arise, in 90% of cases during the operation of the pump, the bolts actually became one piece with the body, and whatever lubricants you use, they will hardly help you.

First of all, the pump must be fixed, this can be done either in special teks, or you can dig a hole in the ground, wrap the pump with a foil so that the earth does not clog into the housing, and try to unscrew the nuts. Perhaps you will succeed, or you may have to resort to using a grinder, in any case, the bolts will not withstand the grinder.

It is best to have two pumps on hand, one will be the donor, the other you will be repairing. Usually, a donor pump is one that has not been used for a long time, but just lay there and rusted, because didn't work for unclear reasons. After spinning the pumps, you will need to replace the power plant in the pump, first clean the winding of the power magnet from dirt.

If there is no "donor" pump at hand, then the power coil can be repaired on your own. To get the coil, you need to knock on the body with a hammer, the waterproof compound is quite fragile, it will collapse and the coil will fall out of the body. Now you can start rewinding the coil and it is better to do this based on a voltage greater than 220V. But when rewinding the coil, it is worth making turns for alternating current and do not forget to take into account the ampere power of the pump.

The Soviet-made BTsN 3/17 pump was inherited
Went through, there were problems with the capacitor box - eliminated.
The water surface is only 2.7 meters, the depth of the well is 4 meters, the intake pipe is 32 mm with a check valve at the end at a depth of 0.5 meters from the bottom. I pour water into the intake pipe and, as you can see from the photo, 4 liters into a bottle without a bottom, I turn it on, it works, it pumps water from the bottle, I close the tap under the bottle, it doesn't pump it from the well. What is the problem I cannot understand. Tell me who knows, I will be very grateful.
PHOTO here [

Vadim 65 wrote:
Tell me who knows, I will be very grateful.
R.S. I can't insert a photo.

Try to insert a photo through ”> it does not work out badly.
And BCN Kharkovsky of various modifications, until recently, was the main irrigation and water supply "force". I still have it in the bath. I don’t remember when we stopped filling the pump. a working pipe, usually plastic, is attached to the suction pipe. the outlet pipe, usually rubber, must be raised above the pump. We take all this in our hands and sharply raise and lower the pump, when the water fills the pump, turn it on. should swing. My father bought and installed the first BTsN pump in 196 some year. So he did not connect the starting winding correctly, and he turned in the opposite direction, the pump was pumping, but it was bad, I noticed it, my father corrected it, began to pump remarkably. Already at the end of the eighties it was replaced by Kharkovsky, and the first was "Kabansky". So if it turns correctly, holds the oil seal, and the above requirements are met, it should swing. and also, for sure the pump B.U.take a look at the impeller, the lower part of the impeller may be clogged or peeled off, there, for some reason, the aluminum rivets oxidize and crumble. riveted with aluminum wire more than once.

Yes, this is the BTSN of the first releases, the starting capacitors are in a separate aluminum block, later they were made without a cooling fan. in its place are capacitors in a housing with a handle.

UV yes in the photo it's him, and thanks to LeonidS it turned out to insert a link to my photo, it can be seen more clearly there.
The release of 1976 on the capacitor box says BCN 3/17, the price is 50 rubles.
I did not understand the advice> We take it all in our hands and sharply raise and lower the pump,

, because the pump is rigidly fixed to the well, or the outlet pipe? But it is plastic, quite tough and by the way with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 50 meters - is this normal?
And where the oil seal is, probably under the impeller, but I could not remove it. It looks like it’s normal, it didn’t work to take it off, it seems to be fastened in the center with a screw, but it’s aluminum and the slot on it is hammered, maybe you can drill it out or what are the options?

Vadim 65 wrote:
there you can see more clearly.

In order for us to see your photo, we need to highlight the link below the inscription: Preview for forums - click-to-enlarge: copy and paste into the text of the message, somewhere like this.
[

]( )
This is my irrigation pump, part of the working pipe is made with a high pressure hose, so that you can pump water into the pump. and the outlet is made upward, so that there would be a supply of water above the pump, if the valve keeps the pump constantly with water. I do not advise you to copy my performance, but the outlet pipe must somehow be raised above the pump. The oil seal is located between the impeller and the engine. The impeller is fastened with an aluminum nut, unscrewed by a head or end barbed by 19, if the splines are clogged, be sure, buy a spare nut in the utility room, they sell from us, and you must have "Barabashevo" from you and from us, probably at the same distance

... But first, you can check the oil seal, attach a hose to the pump outlet and fill it with water, lift it up. If water seeps through the gland, change “definitely”.
The length of the pressure pipe is as much as 50 meters, this is nothing, for a centrifugal pump engine it is worse if the diameter of the suction hose is underestimated, just performance. the longer the less.
[

I see about a dozen connections at the suction. Vadim 65, are you sure that no air is being sucked in through this ten?

In order for us to see your photo, we need to highlight the link below the inscription: Preview for forums - click-to-enlarge: copy and paste into the text of the message, somewhere like this.

I tried to do so, but it does not work, writes an "incorrect file" for some reason.

I see about a dozen connections at the suction. Vadim 65, are you sure that no air is being sucked in through this ten?

I certainly don't see so much, but I'll try to get to the oil seal and change it. How I will do - I will write. In the meantime, thank you all for your help.

Vadim 65 wrote:
I certainly don't see so much, but I'll try to get to the oil seal and change it.

I can't tell you where the vacuum disappears, you can only find it yourself, but show a dozen visible connections, please:

A high pressure acts on the gland of a centrifugal pump; you will find out about a faulty or serviceable cuff after the pump raises the pressure in the pressure pipe.

Try to raise the water from the minimum depth with the pump. Measure the exhaust pressure. According to the declared and received figure, it will be possible to judge the real capabilities of the pump. If necessary, it will be possible to look for the cause not in the suction pipe with a bunch of connections, but in the impeller and its interfaces.

Please tell me how the cuff on this pump should look like?

Vadim 65, in such cases as yours, in my opinion, the following should be done:
1) disconnect the pump from all pipes;
2) assemble the system as simplified as possible - a piece of steel pipe at the inlet and a bent piece of pipe at the outlet (1 meter is enough), screw the outlet pipe with a slope so that the fountain does not pour on the pump, and, of course, a check valve at the end of the inlet pipe ;
3) fill this system with water through the open end of the outlet pipe;
4) lower the check valve of the inlet pipe into a container with water (even a 10L bucket will go).

Well, and accordingly make sure - if there is a pressure, it means that somewhere there is a leak in your main system. Well, if not, then the oil seal is kirdyk.

LeonidS wrote:
But first, you can check the oil seal, attach a hose to the pump outlet and fill it with water, lift it up. If water seeps through the gland, change “definitely”.

I agree with Leonids, this is when it's really, so to speak, a frank kirdyk to the oil seal.

But if the gland is not so kirdyknulsya, then a malfunction of the gland is possible, but with a more complicated technique (also with a pump disconnected from your system):
1) put a plug on the inlet (naturally threaded, for example, a small piece of pipe welded on one side);
2) connect a hose connected to the central water supply to the outlet from the pump.
And in the “hour of good pressure” to see if water will come out in the oil seal.

Actually, personally, I am inclined that with such a "respectful age" (apparently, even more than 25 years) of the pump, the version about the need to replace the stuffing box is usually in the very first place.

Well, of course, you have too many connections at the input. I would give preference to replacing threaded connections with welded ones as much as possible.

The fact that water is “pumped” from the filler bottle does not mean that it is sucked in by the pump. it can go by gravity into the pump. therefore it may seem that the pump seems to be pumping.