Do-it-yourself dub pumps

In detail: do-it-yourself dub pumps from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The circulation pump is often used in individual heating systems in private houses. This equipment makes it possible to efficiently circulate the coolant along the circuit, which ensures a stable temperature throughout the room. The quality of heating depends on the operation of the device.

Circulating pumps serve for a long time and are rarely damaged. However, if malfunctions occur, you can repair the device yourself. An important fact is that pumps of different models have the same operating principle, are subject to the same breakdowns, therefore, the methods for their elimination are the same.

In large rooms, the pipes are long and the water circulates in the system slowly, having time to cool down before returning in a closed loop back to the boiler for reheating. To solve this problem, they resort to the help of circulation pumps, which forcibly force the coolant to move faster along the contour.
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To repair the equipment yourself, you should know its device:

  1. Steel body, elongated horizontally. It contains all the elements of the system. The body can also be made of aluminum alloy or stainless steel.
  2. Electric motor and rotor housed in a housing.
  3. Impeller with blades fixed to the rotor. The blades are curved in the opposite direction from the movement of the wheel. This part is made from durable polymers.

When the pump is turned on, water in the circuit is drawn into the inlet by the rotation of the wheel. In the chamber, centrifugal force acts on the water, pressing it against the walls of the chamber and pushing it out. After that, the pressure drops and water is pumped back into the pump.

Video (click to play).

The device of modern circulation pumps

With such a continuous cycle of operation, the temperature in the heating system is constantly kept at the same level. This saves fuel or energy costs.
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What breakdowns can occur and how to repair the circulation pump with your own hands? Let's figure it out.
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  1. Foreign object in the impeller chamber.
  2. Prolonged downtime of the apparatus led to oxidation of the rotor shaft.
  3. The power supply to the device terminals is interrupted.

In the first case, you can eliminate the malfunctions by carefully removing the device and unscrewing the housing in the impeller area. If there is a foreign object, remove it and turn the shaft by hand. To avoid re-entry of foreign matter, a filter should be installed on the nozzle.

The humming of the pump can also be observed during prolonged downtime and shaft oxidation. It is necessary to thoroughly clean all oxidized areas and lubricate the movable parts of the working unit.

The circulating pump hums even if the power supply fails. First check the voltage with a tester. If the cable is damaged or broken, it should be replaced. If the cable is in order, look at the voltage at the terminals. The infinity icon on the tester indicates a short circuit. A lower voltage means an open winding. In both cases, it is necessary to replace the terminals.
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The pump does not work when there is no mains voltage. The tester checks the voltage, as well as the correct connection of the device to the power supply.

Circulation pump shaft

If there is a fuse in the pump, there is a risk that it will burn out from power surges. If this happens, replace the fuse. It is advisable to install a reliable stabilizer.
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  1. Limescale deposits between the moving parts of the appliance.
  2. Incorrect connection of the pump in the area of ​​the terminals.

The pump can turn on, but also stop immediately if there is scale. Remove limescale and lubricate the joints between stator and rotor.

In the second case, check the tightness of the fuse on the device. It is removed and all clamps are cleaned. All wires must be correctly connected in the terminal box.
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If the pump is noisy, it could indicate the presence of air in the system. It is necessary to bleed the air from the pipes, mount a unit in the upper part of the circuit so that the air is released automatically.

The pump can also make noise due to wear on the impeller bearing... It is required to disassemble the body of the device, and, if necessary, replace the bearing.
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If the activation of the pump is accompanied by vibration and noise, then the reason is insufficient head in a closed circuit. You can solve it by adding water to the pipes or increasing the pressure at the pump inlet.
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With a low pressure or when the pump almost does not pump the coolant, check the direction of rotation of the impeller in the body of the apparatus. If the impeller turns incorrectly, then you made a mistake when connecting the pump to the terminals in phases, if you use a three-phase network.

A decrease in head may result from the high viscosity of the coolant. At the same time, the impeller experiences increased resistance and does not work well, not at full strength. It is necessary to check the mesh filter and clean it. It is also advisable to check the cross-section of the pipes of the holes. After that, you will need to adjust the correct parameters of the pump.
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The pump will not turn on if there is a power problem. It is necessary to check the phases and fuses. If they are in order, then the drive winding has burned out. In this case, you will have to seek help from specialists.

The internal surfaces of the pump must be free of rust

When diagnosing equipment, you can use the indicator - a tester of the rotation of the circulation pump shaft. It allows you to make sure that the pump is working without being connected to the mains.
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The temperature of the pump must be the same as the temperature of the pipes of the heating system. If the circulation pump heats up and its temperature is higher than that of the pipes, then there are errors in installation or a problem with operation. Let's consider why the device is heating up.

  1. If installed incorrectly, the pump starts to overheat immediately after switching on. Installation errors are the easiest to spot.
  2. Clogged loop. Rust and various deposits accumulate in the system. This leads to a narrowing of the diameter of the passage for the coolant. The load on the machine increases and the engine overheats. Preventive maintenance of the system will be required.
  3. Rust, debris, limescale in clogged communications can get into the pump and jam the electric motor, causing it to warm up. Disassemble and clean the device, otherwise the motor coils will quickly fail.
  4. The pump is also heating up due to a lack of bearing lubrication. Under these conditions, they wear out much faster, thereby reducing the service life of the entire apparatus. The motor is seized. The pump should be taken to a workshop.
  5. When the mains voltage is below 220 V, the pump overheats and can quickly fail. Determine the voltage in the network as soon as the engine starts to warm up in order to immediately exclude or confirm this problem.

If the circulation pump heats up, you do not need to disassemble it immediately. First, measure the voltage in the network. At normal voltage, the system is washed with caustic soda, leaving it in the pipes for an hour, and then drained. If the pump is still warming up, you will need the help of specialists.
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In order for your pump to serve for a long time and reliably, you should follow the operating rules and carry out regular preventive maintenance. The apparatus should be inspected periodically:

  1. If a leak is detected at the joints, replace the gaskets and seals.
  2. Check the grounding.
  3. Extraneous sounds should not be present when the engine is running.
  4. There should be no strong vibration.
  5. The line pressure is measured.
  6. The pump must be dry and clean.

Every two to three years, the device is cleaned, all of its components. Regarding models that can be disassembled. Pumps with one-piece or pressed-in casing cannot be repaired, and if a breakdown occurs, it is replaced with a new one. How to disassemble a circulation pump yourself?

Testing and repair of the electrical unit of the circulation pump

To do this, you need a hex wrench, a flat screwdriver (slotted) 4 and 8 mm, a Phillips screwdriver.

First, all the water is drained from the system, the pump is dismantled and then they are disassembled.

  1. Using a wrench or a screwdriver, unscrew 4-6 bolts on the body at the point where the pumping part is connected to the shell.
  2. The shell is removed, while the impeller remains on the rotor shaft with the engine.
  3. Drainage holes are found around the perimeter. There should be four of them. With a slotted screwdriver, little by little pry the jacket of the electric motor compartment under the impeller. The shaft with the rotor and the impeller must come out of the grooves and the stator cup.

The disassembly of the unit is now complete. Next, the rotor, impeller, shell are cleaned from scale and plaque without damaging the parts. Do not use coarse abrasives. It is recommended to clean the parts with a hard polymer bristle brush. You can use cleaning agents that contain a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Sometimes they use fine emery - "zero".

Popular manufacturers of circulation pumps are Webasto, Wilo, Ggrundfos, Dab. Models of these brands are reliable, and damage can occur only if the operating conditions are not followed. If you still have to resort to repairing the circulation pump, then finding and purchasing the corresponding parts on the Internet will not be difficult. A repair kit for the circulating pump u 4814, which is very popular in the modern market, like other models, can be ordered in many online stores.
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Owners of autonomous heating know that a circulation pump is needed for normal circulation of the coolant.

Private houses are mainly located far from service centers or workshops, so it is worthwhile to master the repair of a circulation pump with your own hands.

The pump, like other equipment, needs maintenance. To prevent breakdowns, you must follow these recommendations:

  1. In summer, when the device is not working, it must be turned on at least once a month for 15 minutes. But at the same time, the device should not run dry: if the pipes are currently empty, they simply pump water from one container to another, connecting the unit to them with hoses. This procedure will prevent oxidation of the shaft surface and prolong bearing life.
  2. During the heating season, attention should be paid to the operation of the device from time to time. Has the unit started to make noise, vibrate, or other signs of malfunction? Is the circulation pump not getting too hot? After all, the early stage of the malfunction is much easier to eliminate than the neglected one.
  3. If there is a coarse filter in the heating system in front of the pump, then it is periodically checked for rust or other contaminants.
  4. Do not forget about the lubricant and check its sufficient availability in the provided places.

General arrangement of the circulation pump

Compliance with all operating rules of the device does not guarantee the uninterrupted operation of the unit. Breakdowns may occur that do not depend on human actions: a filter clogged, voltage drops, etc.

If the engine does not turn on, but the pump does not generate hum or other strange sounds, it is worth checking the fuse. It reacts sharply to power surges and melts when the engine is threatened, thereby opening the electrical circuit. In this case, the fuse will have to be replaced, after which the device will return to normal operation.

If the failure was not in the fuse, check the power cable, the circuit breaker in the junction box, and the electrical wiring. The wire section or switch may need to be replaced.

After checking the wiring, it is worth moving on to the winding of the electric motor. Its serviceability is checked by measuring the resistance. The multimeter should read 10-15 ohms. Some units are equipped with a starting winding with a resistance of 35-40 ohms.

If the multimeter displays "infinity", then the winding is out of order. And when the readings are closer to zero, an inter-turn closure happened. In this case, turning on the device is accompanied by the fuses in the panel blown.

Circulation pump testing

Modern devices have a low noise level, so often the owner of such a unit cannot understand - is it working or not? To diagnose the device, use the indicator tester of the rotation of the circulation pump shaft, which will show without a power supply whether the device is working properly. To do this, you need to bring your indicator to the motor shaft and the scale will show whether the shaft rotates or does not work at all.

When the circulation pump hums, but the shaft with the impeller does not rotate, it is worth immediately turning off the unit, because the motor winding may burn out. There are several reasons for this malfunction:

  1. The shaft does not work due to downtime during the summer. For the same reason, the impeller sticks to the casing. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the device and manually turn the shaft. Manufacturers took this moment into account, so a notch for a screwdriver is made on the shaft.
  2. The impeller does not rotate due to a foreign object in the chamber. After removing it, the system will resume.

If the device makes unusual noise during operation, it may be trapped air in the system. For removal, it is recommended to install an automatic air vent on the heating circuit. But if it is not there, then the air is vented manually.
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The device temperature must match the temperature of the heating medium pipes. If it rises higher, it means that errors were made during installation, or improper operation takes place. The circulation unit can heat up for the following reasons:

New generation circulation pump device

  • initially incorrect installation. It is not difficult to determine the problem: the pump heats up at the initial stage, immediately after installation.
  • blockage in the system. With prolonged operation, deposits and rust accumulate in the pipes, which leads to a decrease in the water passage. The device is overloaded to ensure normal circulation of the heating medium. At the same time, the engine overheats, but unscheduled maintenance can cope with the breakdown.
  • foreign body. With slagged communications, pieces of rust or plaque break off from pipes and radiators, which, when they get into the device, jam the electric motor. If the device is not disassembled and cleaned in time, the coils of the electric motor may well fail and the device will simply stop turning on.
  • lack of lubricant for bearings. With an insufficient amount of lubricant, the bearings are poorly lubricated and wear out quickly, which leads to a reduction in the service life of the unit as a whole. If the engine is seized as a result, the pump is dismantled and returned to the service center.
  • low voltage in the network. At a voltage below 220 V, the electric motor overheats and quickly fails. In the first minutes of overheating, it is worth checking the voltage in the network with a voltmeter, because the problem may not be in the pump.

One of the problems that happens with heating units is the operation of the pump without pumping water. There are four reasons for this condition:

  • air ingress or water leakage, which is eliminated by repairing holes and cracks in pipes;
  • incorrect regulation of the heating system.The malfunction is solved by checking the correct position of the taps (primarily to the pump);
  • no water. It is worth repairing such a malfunction by supplying water to the device.
  • Blocked or stuck valve. To eliminate it, the valve should be repaired or replaced.

To repair the circulation pump, it must be dismantled and disassembled. Dismantle the device according to the following scheme:

Dismantling the circulation pump

  1. The unit is disconnected from the power supply. In order to disconnect the cable from the terminal box, it is necessary to remove the case from the power supply unit of the device.
  2. Shut off the liquid supply with the side valves and drain the remainder in the system.
  3. The device is unscrewed with a hex screwdriver, but suddenly the bolts have become stuck, they are moistened with a special WD liquid and after 20-30 minutes they try to unscrew again.

After dismantling, the unit cover is removed. Under it is a rotor with a wheel and blades. Basically, the rotor is secured with clamps or bolts. After removing it, access to the inside of the device opens. By carefully examining the pump, malfunctions are detected and eliminated.
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