Pumps for heating DIY repair

In detail: pumps for heating do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A circulation pump is often used to heat a house. Despite the many models, the principles of their operation are the same. Any malfunction of it leads to the shutdown of the entire system. This is not good, because it is uncomfortable in a cold house.

It is urgent to seek the help of a professional in the service center, or, having the tools and the appropriate skills, to carry out the repair yourself. You also need to be able to disassemble it.

Before repairing damage, check the power supply. The voltage should be equal to that indicated in the passport.

Consider the most common hardware faults:

  • heating pump noise;
  • lack of rotation of equipment and characteristic sounds;
  • noise when turning on;
  • the equipment does not turn on;
  • the pump turns on, and then turns it off for several minutes;
  • great vibration;
  • low head;
  • heat.

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Circulation pump device for heating

  1. The pump can make noise for the following reasons: long idle and oxidation of the shaft or blocking of the wheel with a foreign object.
  2. The equipment may not rotate or make an audible noise due to power and voltage problems.
  3. If the pump makes a noise when switched on, it is caused by the accumulation of air in the piping.
  4. A problem with turning on the equipment is caused by a power problem.
  5. Switching off the pump a few minutes after switching on is caused by improper wiring and oxidation of the contacts.
  6. Severe vibration can be caused by bearing shock absorption.
  7. The reasons for the low head are the rotation of the wheel and blades in the wrong direction and the viscosity of the water due to a clogged filter.
  8. Heating of the heating pump can be caused by improper installation, clogging of the system, foreign matter, lack of lubrication of bearings, low voltage in the network.
Video (click to play).

If the pump hums, caused by the motor shaft stuck due to standstill, the pump must be disassembled after turning off the power to the equipment. Then remove the remaining coolant from the pump and pipeline, remove the screws to fix the housing and the motor. Disassemble the motor and rotor, and turn the rotor by hand, resting on the notch. Also, an idle impeller can stick to the shaft. If the wheel is stuck due to a foreign object, simply remove it and the system will resume operation.
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If the engine does not start, no characteristic sounds are heard, then, first of all, it is necessary to check the fuse, if any. In case of voltage surges, to which such a fuse reacts, it melts and the circuit opens. Replacing the fuse will return the equipment to service. If the fuse is intact, it is necessary to "ring" the supply wire and wiring, check the circuit breaker or fuse in the junction box. Maybe he or a section of the cable needs to be replaced.

If there are no wiring problems, the motor winding may have burned out. To check its condition, use a multimeter to measure resistance. The resistance of the working winding should be 10-15 ohms, starting -35-40 ohms. When "infinity" is displayed on the device display, we can say that the winding has burned out. Zero readings indicate a short circuit between the turns of the winding. An attempt to turn on the pump in this case will cause the fuse to blow.Also, the cause of the malfunction may be a breakdown of the non-polar capacitor of the starting winding. The capacitance of the capacitor of a serviceable pump is 10 - 40 μF.

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Correct and incorrect installation of the circulation pump

If the readings differ from the norm, it is necessary to replace the capacitor. The electrical part can only be repaired by yourself if you have experience. Otherwise, it is better to seek professional help.
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In case of unusual noise of the equipment when switched on, it is necessary to bleed the air manually, after which the pump will stop making noise. It is recommended to install an automatic air vent to avoid this problem.
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If the pump vibrates strongly, it is necessary to check the condition of the bearing. It is likely to be worn out and needs to be replaced. The bearings are installed on the shaft and into the bore with an interference fit, that is, they are pressed in.

In workshops and factories, bearings are replaced with a special puller tool.

At home, bearings can be knocked out by gently hitting with a wooden mallet or by making a simple DIY puller. It is made from 2 plates with holes into which 2 studs with nuts are threaded. One plate rests against the end of the shaft, the other against the bearing (it is put on the shaft, for this a hole of the required diameter is made in it). After that, it is necessary to tighten the nuts in turn and very slowly. Excessive cavitation can also cause vibration. To solve this problem, it is necessary to increase the pressure at the pump inlet by increasing the level of the coolant in the system.
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If the pressure is insufficient or the pump is quickly turned off after turning on, you need to look for a problem in the wrong connection of the electrical part or in the unreliable connection of the contacts.

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Testing the electrical components of the circulation pump

If the contacts are reversed, the impeller may rotate in the opposite direction (in pumps with a 3-phase motor), which leads to a decrease in head. You need to carefully study the connection diagram in the instructions, find the error and connect the pump correctly.
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To eliminate the heating of the equipment, it is necessary to understand what is causing this. At the initial stage, it heats up due to improper installation, which will require the help of a specialist. Clogged system leads to the accumulation of various deposits, which causes a narrowing of the diameter of the fluid passage. The pump is running at increased load, which leads to overheating of the motor. It is necessary to carry out unscheduled maintenance of the heating system. In order to prevent the ingress of a foreign body, it is necessary to disassemble and clean the circulation pump in time.

If the bearings are insufficiently lubricated, it is best to dismantle the pump and take it to a workshop. With a reduced voltage, the engine overheats and its quick failure. If overheating occurs, then it is necessary to measure the voltage in the network, and make sure what the overheating is associated with.

When buying equipment for heating, it is better to clarify whether it is possible to repair the pump with your own hands, whether it will be possible to purchase spare parts. It is sometimes cheaper to install new equipment than to repair old ones.
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Do-it-yourself heating circulation pump repair is a rather difficult task. To do it correctly, you need to understand the design and features of such equipment.

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Pump circulation devices, often called pumps, are popular among owners of summer cottages, private housing construction, apartments with autonomous heating, and country cottages. The choice of such devices is quite large these days. Circulation pumps differ from each other in technical characteristics. However, their overall design remains unchanged.

The device of the circulation pump is as follows: the device has a housing made of carbon steel, stainless steel or strong aluminum-based alloys. The pump is made elongated horizontally. An electric motor with a rotor is installed in the housing. The motor power is quite high. It varies depending on the equipment model. The rotor is equipped with an impeller made of ultra-strong polymer compounds or steel. It is equipped with special blades. They bend in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheel.

An electric motor with a rotor is installed in the pump housing

In some cases, the pumping equipment assemblies are not enclosed in one casing, but in several separate blocks. Such pumps for two- and one-pipe heating systems are called console. There are two types of pumps - wet and dry. The first of these devices are made in the form of a monoblock. They have an affordable cost, they work almost silently. Dry pumps are in most cases made of cantilever type. The electric motor is installed in a separate unit. The rotor of the engine is rotated through a special coupling. Dry pumps are structurally more complex due to the presence of a drive mechanism.

The principle of operation of the described devices:

  • After starting, the electric motor starts to rotate the impeller on the rotor.
  • The liquid enters the central part of the pump device.
  • The blades on the impeller throw the used heat carrier (oil, water) to the outside of the housing.
  • Centrifugal force begins to act on the liquid. Due to this, the coolant enters the outlet pipe.

After all these operations, a drop in pressure is observed in the chamber, due to which the pump receives another portion of the pumped liquid. This ensures the continuity of the pump.

Repairing circulation pumps requires dismantling and (usually) disassembling them. Removing the pump is easy. You will need to de-energize the device, close the bypass heating pipe - bypass, if one has been installed, and then carefully unscrew all the shut-off valves that fix the pump. Then you can safely dismantle the pump.

Disassembling the device will have to tinker a little longer. But this operation is quite feasible. Stock up in advance with a hexagon, a Phillips screwdriver, a liquid wrench - a special aerosol composition that is applied to fasteners that have become stuck during operation and allows you to unscrew the latter without difficulty. If the pump has not been disassembled for a very long time, the use of the specified aerosol is mandatory. How to disassemble a circulation pump?