Nissan almera n16 do-it-yourself front caliper repair Details: nissan almera n16 do-it-yourself front caliper repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.Repair of brake calipers Nissan Almera N16 Unscheduled rear brake caliper repair and pad replacement Front caliper repair. DIY caliper repair NISSAN Almera N16 Front Caliper Guide Replacement repair of a jammed caliper Why the calipers wedge and the brakes get warm, and why it is impossible to lubricate Rear support. How to disassemble? Stopping support. Device and service. Repair kit. Calipers clatter, How to eliminate the clatter of calipers is the simplest solution! The welding calipers have acidified. Caliper guide rails on bumps The inner pad wears out faster than the outer pad. The inside of the brake disc is more worn out. Bad brakes Read also: The content of the article: For starters: What is a modern passenger car caliper: The calipers of modern cars have a floating bracket and two pads in their design. The pads are located so that on one side the pad constantly rests against one side of the bracket, while the second pad is able to move along the guides under the action of the caliper piston. When braking, the piston presses on the movable block in front of it. Thus, first the pad begins to move, and when it is pressed against the plane of the disc, the floating caliper bracket begins to move. towards the piston along the guides fingers, as a result of which the second, outer pad is pressed against the brake disc. Let's clarify what is included in the rail kit: The guide itself Bolt screwing into it A boot protecting the guide installation site (the boot prevents the grease from washing out and getting dirt into the guide working space) Video (click to play). The wear of the boot often leads to the complete volatilization of the lubricant, and sometimes clogging of the working, blind cavity of the guide installation. Even if structurally, dirt does not get into the working space of the finger, then the accumulated grease threatens to wear out the metal of the guide. Wear and tear sometimes leads to the fact that the guide begins some mobility in its seat. With such wear and tear, motorists often hear a sharp, frequent knock when driving over irregularities. Below we will consider ways to get rid of the knock of the caliper guides. Not all problems start with a torn boot, but most do. A torn boot not only contributes to the volatilization of the grease, but also to the ingress of water and dirt into the workspace. And so, if only water gets in, the guide rusts, bites and wears out. If, however, a lot of water gets in, inevitably with it, dirt will also penetrate in the caliper glass, this dirt accumulates and clogs it, as a result, the guide does not go as it should, and bites or sticks to the glass, then we get a sour guide. The results of a sour rail directly affect the braking system, the second block is no longer pressed against the brake disc, as a result, only one block slows down, on one side of the brake disc, while both the block and the side of the brake disc wear out not even 2 times, but that way all 5 times faster than with a fully working caliper ... In order to avoid such problems, it is worth at least a couple of times in the life of the car to carry out preventive maintenance of the caliper guides, while at least sometimes assessing the condition of the guide boot. In addition to problems with a finger, with a boot or thread of the guide, you can also find partial or complete disappearance of the O-rings. If the design provided for their presence, then their absence with a very high probability will cause knocking on the pendants. Front brake caliper.This article will focus on the front bulkhead of the Nissan brake system, more specifically the front brake calipers. Humidity and high temperatures during friction of the brake pads lead over time to the fact that the caliper, along with the pins, stops working normally. The time is coming when it is necessary to do prevention. Owners of cars face this every 50-70 thousand and this article with a photo report will help you do it yourself. All Nissans have brake discs at the front. As a rule, the front brakes work according to the “floating caliper” system, that is, the caliper is attached to the cylinder with two bolts, the hydraulic cylinder and the caliper form a floating caliper, and the caliper in turn is connected to two rails. These guides are lubricated to reduce friction and prevent corrosion. The need for a bulkhead arises either when the brake fluid leaks through the piston oil seals (you will see leaks) or when there is a knock, grinding of the guide calipers. However, it is better to sort out the caliper in advance so that all this does not lead to more serious consequences (sooner or later you will have to throw these expensive components in a landfill, since no bulkhead will help them). So, a small graphical description of the system: Now we give the numbers of the front caliper repair kits for different Nissan: 1) Nissan Maxima (body A33, from 2001 to 2007) - 41120-AG025 (replacement 4112009G25, 4112009G26, 411200P625), maxima A32 - 41120-38U25 (replacement 411201E026) 2) Almera (body N15, from 07.1995 to 04.2000) - 41120-4M425 (replacement 4112040F27) or 41120-2N325 3) Primera p11 - 41120-71J25, primera p12 - 41127-4U125 4) Tiida c11 - 41120-AL525 (replacement for 411202Y025, 411206M025, 4112071E25, 4112071E26) 5) X-trail t30 - 41120-4N026 (replacement 411200W725, 411204N025), x-trail t31 - D1120-JE00A 6) Micra k12, Note e11 - 41124-AX625 7) Navara d40 - 41120-0V725 or 41120-VK125 8) Almera Classic b10 - 41120-95F0A 9) Qashqai j10 - D1120-JE00A 10) Teana J31 - 41120-AL525 (replacement 411202Y025, 411206M025, 4112071E25, 4112071E26), Teana J32 - 41120-2Y028 11) Pathfinder 94 ', VG 3.0E, TERRANO R21 - 41120-AG025 (replacement 4112009G25, 4112009G26, 411200P625) You can purchase these parts on the AutoStore website by entering the spare part you are interested in in the search bar! If you are not sure about the correct choice of the part, contact the firms and auto warehouses that sell spare parts for your car. This photo shows the original repair kit. There is a fairly large number of non-original repair kits on the market, such as "Seinsa", "Japan Cars" and others. But I have already been convinced that it is worth choosing original spare parts, including repair kits. Which one to choose is up to you and your material resources. This kit (for 1 caliper) includes 4 rubber boots (finger boots), 2 piston gaskets (piston boots), 2 piston oil seals, red silicone-based grease, orange grease and finger caps, a bleed fitting cap. This set may differ slightly on different machines. Raise the front of the vehicle and attach it securely to the pillars. We remove the wheel. We clean the caliper mounting bolts and the union bolt that secures the brake hose. Unscrew the bolt with a key on "12" or "14", depending on the car. It's simple - you just need to unscrew the caliper from the steering knuckle. It is secured with two screws. When the caliper is unscrewed, you can proceed to further work. Before us is the caliper assembly. Using a screwdriver, we take out the brake pads and locking plates. If you have forgotten what it is called, please refer to the first picture of this article. We continue to disassemble the caliper - we unscrew the floating bracket from the piston body. In order to squeeze out the piston in the future, it is worth unscrewing the bleed nipple. No excessive force is required, the fitting breaks off easily. If you're lucky, he'll get out easily, but if not ... Then there are several options: - “tap” the cylinder through a soft metal drift; - water the fitting for a day with WD; - heat the cylinder and try to unscrew it. The stages can be alternated with each other in any sequence, but it is still better to warm up at the very end, when nothing helps. Next, the anthers and caliper guide caps are replaced. We take out the guides from the floating bracket, remove the anthers and the cap. As you can see in the photo, the guides differ from each other.One (left) without a groove, the second (right) with a groove for a rubber cap. The cap is intended, firstly, so that the floating bracket does not dangle on the guides, and secondly, to limit the movement of this very bracket. It is worth remembering (or better to write down) from which side this or that guide was inserted. In order to avoid working out in the channels where the guides go, they must be thoroughly cleaned. A rag with a solvent will help us here. We spray the new anthers with silicone grease and put them in place. Now you need to put the cap on one of the guides. The operation is simple, but it requires accuracy. We grease the guides abundantly with the orange grease included in the kit and insert them into the floating bracket so that the anthers of the guides sit in their place. For the correct distribution of the lubricant along the channels, we move the guides back and forth and release excess air from under the anthers. I advise you to pay attention to the correct installation of the anthers on the bracket (see photo). Next, we begin the bulkhead of the brake cylinder itself. Through the hole into which the bolt is screwed in, we push the piston out of the cylinder. The main thing is that the piston comes out smoothly, without distortions. Remove the old boot and oil seal. We clean the cylinder from the dirt, the places where the oil seal and the boot fit, and then we look at its condition. It must be free of scuff marks and damage caused by corrosion. We also clean the place of contact between the boot and the piston. We install a new oil seal in place, having previously lubricated it with the grease that comes with the kit. It is also advisable to lubricate the place where the anther meets the cylinder body. Then we install a new boot in place. If you have thoroughly cleaned the groove in which it is attached, it will not be difficult to insert the boot correctly. It would be nice to grease the boot with grease before installing. The next step is to put the piston in place. The problem is that when you try to pull the boot over the piston, it pops out of its seat in the cylinder. Here is a photo of a properly installed piston. After installing the piston, it must be moved so that excess air comes out from under the boot. The bulkhead process is over. We push the piston inside the cylinder and proceed with the assembly. We fasten the floating bracket to the cylinder with bolts with the required torque, insert the locking plates of the pads and the pads themselves in place. We clean the thread of the pumped-through fitting, tighten it, after having lubricated the thread with grease. On top of the fitting we put on a cap from the repair kit. We install the caliper on the steering knuckle, bolt it with the right torque, bolt the brake hose and bleed the brake system. We install the caliper on the steering knuckle, bolt it with the right torque, bolt the brake hose and bleed the brake system. You can find spare parts for your car on the AUTO warehouse website, only we have the most complete list of all online stores. With the help of our website, you can find, select and purchase goods at the best price and within a short time frame. The floor of the forum turned over, 70 percent of Sunny are sick with the clatter of calipers. They drove this one themselves, although the mileage was small. For half a year I was looking for a way out, until I was advised this: There is a special sealant for metal, the sealant itself is silicone. Here they lubricate the caliper guides themselves and wait 30 minutes. The sealant disappears as soon as the knock is taken. It turns out, as it were, rubber veneers the metal. Already drove 5 thousand, there is not a sound 🙂 I have a sealant like this: I bought it at a hardware store. High temperature. The price is from 150 to 250 rubles. in general, there is a neighboring branch and there with vingroad.ru mine is still the best way - 2 rubber rings (or maybe 3 and 4) on the guide. they will never interfere and the function is the same as the sealant. but the sealant is an interesting topic. and if it is not poured into the entire cavity between the guide and the walls? by a third for example With bad roads enough for half a year (if 2 rubber bands). If this sealant sets and becomes harder than fluoroplastic, then yes - the topic! IMHO Better Anaterm-117VM to smear the guides, enough for a year. Finally solved the problem of knocking calipers, now there is actually silence! Issue price: 80r + 2 hours of time. On the forum I found pictures of how rubber rings are mounted on the guides, I decided to do the same, only I could still get to the turner, and how much he asked was not the last question, in view of the shaky financial situation. In general, I decided to do everything myself with improvised means, how and what happened - look. I can say one thing - I am completely satisfied with the result! I went to “Autograd” on a dovator and took 8 rings with an outer diameter of 8 mm. I also needed a drill and a hacksaw for metal. We insert the guide into the drill (it is better to fix the drill itself) and cut out the grooves with a hacksaw, into which we then put the rings. During installation, the rails are naturally lubricated and set in place. Then we go and enjoy the silence and ourselves that our hands are not from * experience)) PS: The first guide is on the pictures, so it's a little not neat, the rest turned out to be "prettier")) Check the condition of the brake pads at every service (see Checking the degree of wear of brake pads, discs and drums ").Brake pads require replacement when the linings are worn out (the minimum permissible thickness of the friction linings is “2 mm), the linings are loosely connected to the base, oily working surfaces, in the presence of deep grooves or chips. NOTE: Wear indicators are installed on the inner front brake pads. When the permissible lining thickness is reached during braking, the wear indicator comes into contact with the brake disc, causing a squeak, signaling that the brake pads are at their limit. WARNINGS: Replace the front brake pads only with a set of 4. (two on each side).Before replacing brake pads, check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If the level is close to the * MAX ”mark, it is necessary to pump out some of the liquid (for example, with a medical syringe or a rubber bulb), because after replacing worn-out pads with new ones, the liquid level will rise. You will need: key "14". wheel nut wrench, sliding pliers.1. Raise the front of the vehicle and place it on secure stands.2. Remove the left front wheel. 3. Remove the bolt securing the lower caliper fill pin. 4. Lift the caliper up. 5. . and remove the inner and outer brake pads. This is how the front brake pads look like: 1- outer brake pad; 2 - brake pad wear indicator; 3 - inner brake shoe. 6. Remove the retaining springs from the shoe guide. NOTE: Shown on rail removed for clarity. Replace heavily deformed or corroded springs. 7. Sink the slave cylinder piston with pliers. USEFUL TIPS: Every time you replace the brake pads, be sure to check the condition of the protective rubber covers of the guide pin, as well as the movement of the caliper relative to the guide of the brake pads. If movement is difficult, lubricate the caliper guide pins with grease. For this. ... remove the guide pin. „. Lubricate it with grease and then lubricate the finger guard with grease. Lubricate the second guide pin and its cover in the same way. Install the guide pins in the reverse order of removal. Replace guide pin protectors if hardened, deformed or torn. 8. Install the retaining springs, brake pads in the rails and other parts in the reverse order of removal. To prevent self-loosening of the caliper guide pin fastening bolt, lubricate its thread before installing with an anaerobic thread lock.9.Replace the brake pads of the brake mechanism of the right front wheel in the same way.10. Check and, if necessary, restore the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder. USEFUL TIPS: After replacing worn out brake pads with new ones, do not rush to immediately leave on busy highways. It is possible that at the very first intensive braking you will be unpleasantly amazed at the low efficiency of the brakes, although the pads were supplied with proprietary ones. Brake discs also wear out, and new pads only touch their edges, practically not braking. Choose a quiet street or drive without cars and brake gently several times so that the pads rub in and begin to adhere to the entire surface. At the same time, evaluate the effectiveness of the brakes. Try not to brake abruptly for at least the first 100 km. With strong heating of unworked pads, the top layer of their linings burns and the brakes will not be as effective as possible for a long time. Tired of the knock of calipers and decided to get rid of it! At first I wanted to substitute empty pieces of iron from the same pads under the pads (I did this before), but I still do not have old pads, I drove to a couple of service stations and also did not find ECU pads for our car. In short, he spat on everything and decided already humanly to make a caliper, since at the factory the manufacturers could not do this (or did not want to.) I turned my fingers around with fluoroplastic bushings. FSE now silence as it should be on a normal car! (I already did this procedure on my last car, though after 200,000 mileage) Well, as I did it, I shot a small video for you: Like I do not like Vyacheslav2 10 Nov 2016 Tired of the knock of calipers and decided to get rid of it! At first I wanted to substitute empty pieces of iron from the same pads under the pads (I did this before), but I still do not have old pads, I drove to a couple of service stations and also did not find ECU pads for our car. In short, he spat on everything and decided already humanly to make a caliper, since at the factory the manufacturers could not do this (or did not want to.) I turned my fingers around with fluoroplastic bushings. FSE now silence as it should be on a normal car! (I already did this procedure on my last car, though after 200,000 mileage) Well, as I did it, I shot a small video for you: I made it easier: I took off the front wheels in turn, raised the calipers, pressed the brake several times to release the stock and then slowly spread them to lower the calipers into place again. After that, the backlash caused by the wear of the pads was removed and there was silence. the backlash caused by the wear of the pads was removed and there was silence. The backlash is not due to the wear of the pads, but due to the large gap between the pin and the hole in which it enters. The finger initially dangles in the support, then it begins to break harder and harder! a design feature of these calipers, is treated by replacing the brake disc (wear 2 mm for replacement) and pads, and more lubrication and EVERYTHING. no springs and no need to grind. a design feature of these calipers, is treated by replacing the brake disc (wear 2 mm for replacement) and pads, and more lubrication and EVERYTHING. no springs and no need to grind. This is not a design feature, but a flaw and flaw of the manufacturer's plant! My pads weren't even halfway off the first, but the knocking has already gone. It shouldn't be like that on a normal car, that's why I am struggling with it. Like I do not like klen723 11 Nov 2016 Tired of the knock of calipers and decided to get rid of it! At first I wanted to substitute empty pieces of iron from the same pads under the pads (I did this before), but I still do not have old pads, I drove to a couple of service stations and also did not find ECU pads for our car. In short, he spat on everything and decided already humanly to make a caliper, since at the factory the manufacturers could not do this (or did not want to.) I turned my fingers around with fluoroplastic bushings.FSE now silence as it should be on a normal car! (I already did this procedure on my last car, though after 200,000 mileage) Well, as I did it, I shot a small video for you: I made it easier: I took off the front wheels in turn, raised the calipers, pressed the brake several times to release the stock and then slowly spread them to lower the calipers into place again. After that, the backlash caused by the wear of the pads was removed and there was silence. soon everything will come back already did so it helps for a while. This is not a design feature, but a flaw and flaw of the manufacturer's plant (I don’t like it either), I will not argue, because it’s not a designer, but when a 2mm brake disc is worn out, it must be replaced, and the knocking disappears. This is not a design feature, but a flaw and flaw of the manufacturer's plant (I don’t like it either), I will not argue, because it’s not a designer, but when a 2mm brake disc is worn out, it must be replaced, and the knocking disappears. It looks like everything is intended for this. After all, the knock disappears not because a new disc or new pads have been installed, but because the fingers are pushed all the way in at this time and there are no backlashes. On old cars, backlashes appeared only after 200,000 mileage, when they really broke the holes for the fingers, in our case, they were “broken” from the beginning, in order to seem to change parts more often and “cut” the loot from the population. You see! and you believed in it, what you need! (necessary) to replace not only the pads, but also the brake discs. But not so long ago. we changed the pads a couple of times, and then grinded through the brake. disc and a couple of sets of pads could be demolished! Now we are convinced that only a replacement! and after all, nothing has changed in the design since then. conclusion to make each his own, I have such a common sense and a lot of experience in owning a car, they tell me what I have just outlined. Like I do not like vovan 12 Nov 2016 You can put the base of the old pads, under the new pads. The knock will disappear. You can put the base of the old pads, under the new pads. The knock will disappear. I agree! I have done this myself more than once and I advise everyone, this is an imitation of new pads, when the fingers are pushed in to the end and there is no knocking. this procedure needs to be carried out about 1/3 of the wear of the pads, it helps. You can put the base of the old pads, under the new pads. The knock will disappear. You can put the base of the old pads, under the new pads. The knock will disappear. I agree! I have done this myself more than once and I advise everyone, this is an imitation of new pads, when the fingers are pushed in to the end and there is no knocking. this procedure needs to be carried out about 1/3 of the wear of the pads, it helps. When performing these manipulations, there is one and very big minus with the lining. The brake pedal becomes wadded, and the braking efficiency is significantly reduced. Checked personally, such a revision did not suit me, I had to abandon it. You can put the base of the old pads, under the new pads. The knock will disappear. When performing these manipulations, there is one and very big minus with the lining. The brake pedal becomes wadded, and the braking efficiency is significantly reduced. Checked personally, such a revision did not suit me, I had to abandon it. Well, I wrote above, everyone has their own opinion and experience, I do not insist on anything! I do what I think is right and therefore I advise others (especially since I already went through this) .. So I Lyokha described my feelings from the support done. By the way, by the cottoniness of the brake. pedals must not forget to tighten the parking brake cable in order to reduce the gap between the rear pads and the drum and the brakes will begin to grab immediately and the pedal will not sink! The parking brake cable is pulled up in the cabin, although it is necessary to remove the plastic overlay above the lever. Well, from this place in more detail. Do we not automatically pull up the parking brake cable? The car is three years old, I didn't bother with the cable at all.Every day I put on the handbrake, there is no habit of leaving at speed, as there is an autostart. There is a ratchet type in the drums that automatically adjusts the tension. Tired of the knock of calipers and decided to get rid of it! At first I wanted to substitute empty pieces of iron from the same pads under the pads (I did this before), but I still do not have old pads, I drove to a couple of service stations and also did not find ECU pads for our car. In short, he spat on everything and decided already humanly to make a caliper, since at the factory the manufacturers could not do this (or did not want to.) I turned my fingers around with fluoroplastic bushings. FSE now silence as it should be on a normal car! (I already did this procedure on my last car, though after 200,000 mileage) Well, as I did it, I shot a small video for you: By the way, my calipers do not knock. At least I can't hear them. All knocks that have ever come out were for other reasons - the steering tip, ball. When replacing them, the silence is complete. How is knocking manifested? Please login HERE or Register HERE to view links! Judging by Logan, there is no rattle there. By the way, by the cottoniness of the brake. pedals must not forget to tighten the parking brake cable in order to reduce the gap between the rear pads and the drum and the brakes will begin to grab immediately and the pedal will not sink! The parking brake cable is pulled up in the cabin, although it is necessary to remove the plastic overlay above the lever. Well, from this place in more detail. Do we not automatically pull up the parking brake cable? The car is three years old, I didn't bother with the cable at all. Every day I put on the handbrake, there is no habit of leaving at speed, as there is an autostart. There is a ratchet type in the drums that automatically adjusts the tension. Now I just returned from the garage, washed the car and since such a conversation started, I decided to pull up the handbrake at the same time! it took 15 minutes. I hung out one rear wheel with a jack, removed the plastic cover of the parking brake, it is attached to one screw from the side of the rear passengers. I pulled a nut with a key of 10, which tightens the parking brake cable until the moment when the shoe began to lightly cling to the brake drum. Ride, the difference is decent. The brakes began to cling right away without sinking the pedal, it turned out fine! The handbrake now takes directly from the first click, about 3-4 clicks until a full stretch. Do we not automatically pull up the parking brake cable? No, we need to regulate. The handbrake now takes directly from the first click, about 3-4 clicks until a full stretch. With such a tight installation, won't the pads wear out faster or stick more often in winter? 7-8 is recommended. In principle, there are a lot of records on disassembling calipers, but each rust is unique in its own way. Last week, I began to notice that the rear left wheel is warming up, and the car rolls badly in neutral. The caliper was to blame. At first I thought it was in the guides, but when I started to figure it out, it turned out that they were in perfect order, but the piston does not spin at all as it should. I had to remove him from the car and drag him to the vice. A fork for knocking out ball balls came under the arm, and her handle turned out to be exactly a turnkey by 19. that's how it turned out to turn out the piston Immediately I remembered that it was on this piston that the boot was damaged when replacing the pads. I thought it would. Not carried over. That's the result ... The piston cleaned out, but there were a few shells left, not deep. To a heap I decided to change the rubber bands, repair kit Sensa D4740 He took off the parking brake lever, there is also trouble but the mechanism itself worked without jamming. Everything is ok inside the piston, so I didn't disassemble it. It turned out to be a small elastic band with a skirt on the parking brake mechanism with a tin washer inside - the old one was carefully picked out, and the new one was crushed with a head of 13 As a result, two small rings remained from the kit, most likely they are installed inside the parking brake or piston mechanism, I did not climb into them, because there are no traces of rust and everything works without jamming. I suffered a little more with the installation of the lever on which the parking brake cable clings - it is more convenient to install it already on the car after pumping the system with the parking brake released. It is convenient to install immediately with the parking brake cable hooked up and the spring installed in the position so that the spring is compressed and the long tendril of the lever touches the stopper on the caliper. Now I will keep an eye on the anthers, otherwise it is possible to bump into the replacement of the caliper. Installation of returnable (adjustable) springs of pads for Nissan Almera N16 Replacing the rear brake pads Rear Disc Brake Caliper Components 4 - - protective cover of the guide pin 11 - - protective cover of the guide pin 14 - - adjusting shims 16 - - an adjusting gasket Jack up the rear of the vehicle and place it on the props. Remove the rear wheels. Give the choke bolt and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Plug the end of the hose to prevent dirt from entering the hydraulic system and to minimize brake fluid loss. Remove the bolt of the lower guide pin, rotate the caliper up and remove it from the upper guide pin. Remove the piston boot retaining ring. Press a piece of wood against the caliper body pad anchors and gently squeeze the piston out of the caliper cylinder by applying low pressure air to the hydraulic hose port on the caliper body. Excessive air pressure can cause the piston to be pushed out at high speed, resulting in personal injury and damage to the piston. Remove the boot from the piston and remove the piston cup from the cylinder. Use a blunt instrument, preferably made of plastic or wood, to remove the cuff. Remove the shoe components from the anchor bracket. Flush the caliper cylinder and piston with clean brake fluid. Check the cylinder bore for cavities, corrosion, signs of wear and damage. Replace the caliper housing if necessary. Minor imperfections can be removed with fine sandpaper. Check the piston for cavities, corrosion, signs of wear and damage. Replace if necessary. Do not attempt to polish the piston with fine emery paper, as this will damage the finish. Check the condition of the shoe components, guide pins and anchor shackle. Replace defective parts. Discard all rubber components removed from the caliper assembly. Lubricate the new piston seal and boot with rubber grease and install the seal in the cylinder groove. Make sure that the cuff is correctly seated in the groove - it should not be twisted. Put the boot on the piston and lubricate the latter with clean brake fluid. Fully sink the piston into the caliper cylinder and secure the boot in the groove on the edge of the cylinder, secure it with the retaining ring. Install the shoe components in the anchor bracket. Hook the balance bar to the wheel stud and measure the resistance force. Record the measurement result. Check the wheel bearing preload adjustment if necessary. Using a dial gauge attached to the front suspension component with the plunger pressed against the end surface of the brake disc, measure the runout of the disc. If the measurement result is out of range, grind the disc or replace it. Using a vernier caliper, measure the brake disc thickness at several points along the generatrix. If necessary, sharpen the disc or replace it. Lubricate the new guide pin protectors with rubber lubricant and slide them over the pins. Slide the caliper body onto the upper guide pin and swing it down onto the brake pads. Install and tighten to the required torque the lower guide pin bolt. Connect the brake hose to the caliper and tighten the union bolt to the required torque. Bleed the hydraulic brake system. Depress the brake pedal for five seconds. Release the pedal and turn the front wheel hub ten turns. Using a steelyard, measure the torque of the hub's resistance to turning. Subtract the first measurement from the second to determine the brake engagement force. The maximum allowable value is 5.7 kgf, if it is exceeded, find the jammed components and make the necessary repairs I decided to share my experience, it will probably be useful, I googled for a very long time and did not find anything on the topic of the most painful issue, namely, the installation of the worm retaining ring. It will be about repairing the rear caliper on the N16, restyling. I'm not a professional mechanic, I'm just an amateur who learns along the way Fits repair kit D4848C It can be taken wherever ugondo, existential, euroauto. Whether it is right for you or not - you can't say, but I installed it on the support 44011-BM40A, it came after 2003, if I'm not mistaken, it's the left one, like this: I will do a full report later, but I will pay more attention to the main problem that arises - this is the removal and installation of the retaining ring that holds the parking brake worm. So, it is easy to remove the ring using the cheapest puller that can be bought in the Okay hypermarkets, it looks something like this: You can buy it for 150 rubles and it really crawls through and very easily allows you to remove the ring, although it is disposable and almost collapsed after use It is advisable, in advance, to shake it up so that it fits easier) So, now let's talk about the installation. I suffered with it for 2 days, I inserted the ring into the constriction and tried to push it into the groove, but it didn’t work until I understood one simple thing while looking at the worm: despite the fact that it was pressed, it needs to be compressed even more to install the ring, there is a spring inside! 1. Install the ring as if in a constriction, but at the same time it will not jump into the groove: 2. Compress the spring inside the worm. So, for compression, a homemade design is suitable, which can be made from a large bolt, two angle brackets, 3 nuts and a 16-19 head. Everything was purchased for a penny at Leroy Merlin: Just tighten the nut that pushes the head and squeeze the worm. 3. We make some kind of hook from the wire and push the ring into the groove, it will jump further och easily. 4. We collect everything, there are no further subtleties Hope it will be helpful to someone all the greetings. guys help. changed the front pads, took out the guides to clean and lubricate them, but did not remember which one where it was, they are different, one with notches and the other with a plastic rotating bushing, they are the same in size, but I don’t remember which one is inserted. I think you will not insert them otherwise than they should be. the fact is that on both wheels I put them differently to tolik77: Is their performance checked? accelerated to 100 o sharply slowed down, like no changes. to tolik77: It's not about harsh braking, but how the pads will move away from the brake disc. Check wheel heating. to vitalliy: judging by the profile, this is a 1999 Nissan Almera. I removed the knock of the caliper in my n15. I drilled with a drill at 8.2 and inserted fingers from the nine. Came right up. Informative! (Added to quick search) to Sokol: In this case, the method described above is just for you. to Messir: There is n15, I have n16. No difference? to Sokol: I am sorry, I lost sight of it. There is a difference and this method will not work for you. I must note that on N16 there is already play in the guides, and the absence of knocks is due to a special lubricant, which loses its properties over time, dries up and disappears. I advise you to disassemble and clean everything from old grease. Screw a cloth onto a thin long screwdriver and go through the holes in the guides. Video (click to play). Then, lubricate the guides with a special high-temperature grease: Rate the article: Grade 3.2 who voted: 82 SIMILAR ARTICLESMORE FROM THE AUTHOR Quickly Do-it-yourself dodge grand caravan repair Hydraulic distributor p 80 DIY repair DIY bumper repair drive2 Do-it-yourself LED lamp repair for 220 volts DIY bumper repair fiberglass Recommendations Do-it-yourself kickstarter repair Popular DIY radio repair DIY chipboard countertop chip repair DIY mouse cable repair DIY street garland repair Load more New items Aquaphor dwm 101 morion DIY repair DIY ceiling repair after tiles Quickly DIY repair fur coats DIY pentax lens repair
