Nissan almera n16 do-it-yourself front suspension repair

In detail: nissan almera n16 do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repairing the shock absorber of the telescopic strut usually does not lead to the desired result, therefore, if necessary, we recommend replacing the shock absorber.
You will need: a "8" spanner, a "17" spanner wrench, a spring compression device.

1. Remove the shock-absorber strut from the car (see "Removal and installation of the shock-absorber strut of the front suspension").

2. Remove the spacer from the rack post.

3. Install the spring compressor and compress the spring.

4. Holding the shock absorber rod with an open-end wrench "8", unscrew the rod nut with a spanner wrench "17".

5. Remove the upper rack support.

6.. upper spring plate with compression buffer.

8. Inspect the upper rack support. Cracking and peeling of the rubber mass from the metal base is not allowed. Replace the defective support.

9. Check the support bearing of the strut. Its rings should rotate easily and without jamming relative to each other.

10. Visually inspect the compression buffer and protective boot. If the compression buffer or protective boot is damaged, replace the assembly with a new one.

11. Remove the rubber gasket from the upper spring seat.

12. Replace the heavily crimped or torn gasket with a new one.

13. Inspect the spring. Replace the spring with deformed or broken coils.

NOTE: Replace springs only in pairs (right and left at the same time).

14. If the bottom gasket is frayed on the good spring, remove it from the spring and replace it with a new one.

15. Inspect the rack parts. If cracks, deformation and destruction are found on the strut body, the lower spring cup, fountain mounts to the steering knuckle, replace the strut. It is prohibited to carry out welding work on the stand - this may affect traffic safety.

Video (click to play).

16. Install the shock absorber vertically and release it several times until it stops and raise the shock absorber rod. Make sure the stem moves without sinking, binding, or knocking. Otherwise, replace the shock absorber. In addition, replace the shock absorber if you find traces of fluid leaking (slight fogging of the upper part of the body is allowed) and if the threads in the upper part of the stem are damaged.

WARNING: Replace shock absorbers only in pairs (right and left at the same time).

17. Assemble the shock absorber strut in the reverse order to disassembly. Tighten the shock absorber rod nut to 59-73 Nm 16.0-7.5 kgcm).

This is how the details of the shock absorber strut look like, laid out in the order of their installation.

When assembling the shock absorber strut, install the strut support so that the mark is on the support.

... coincided with the mark on the upper spring plate, and both marks when installing the rack on the car should be directed towards the outside of the car.

18. Install the shock absorber strut on the car ("Removing and installing the shock absorber strut of the front suspension").

NOTE: After repairing the shock absorber, check the wheel alignment if necessary. Take advantage of the services of workshops with special equipment.

To change the front suspension arm of a Nissan Almera N16 with your own hands, enough garage conditions, preferably with a viewing hole, as well as a standard set of tools, because the work of replacing the front arm is relatively easy, and all you need is to be able to turn the nuts.

Before starting the process, it is advisable to treat all fastening nuts with a rust remover.To remove the ball joint, it is advisable to use a special puller.

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This part is needed by the car to damp those vibrations that occur when driving on uneven roads. Another task of the suspension is driving safety, strength and durability in operation.

Nissan Almera chassis diagram

In Nissan Almera, the chassis (as in other cars) is represented by two types of suspensions. This:

front (independent);
back (semi-independent).

The hinges included in each of them should rotate easily and without effort. And in order to understand in what cases it is necessary to replace each of them, you need to know what constitutes running nissan almera n16.

This part of the chassis is independent. It consists of wishbones and telescopic hydraulic struts with shock absorbers. For stability, stabilizers are intended here. Her work is based on the following principles:

The lower arms are attached to a cross member that is attached to the suspension.
A bearing specially thrust into it is responsible for the turns of the upper support.
The softness of the ride is the prerogative of the double-acting shock absorbers installed in this model.
The steering knuckles themselves are connected to the lower knuckles by means of ball joints.
Stabilizer for stability - cross-section bar. It is attached to the cross member from the front suspension and applies stress to the arms and anchorage struts.
The wheel hubs themselves are rotated by double-row bearings (they are installed in the steering knuckles).

In more detail, the described aspects are highlighted in the photo and description of the chassis nissan almera 2005. Below is a picture:

photo and description of chassis nissan almera 2005

According to what this diagram shows for running gear nissan almera, work is carried out with this part of the car. If necessary, removal and subsequent installation proceed in stages:

The front of the machine is lifted and secured.
The wheel is removed
The nuts of the rack supports are loosened.
The brake hose clamp is disconnected.
The lower mounting bolts are unscrewed and removed.
Now, using a pry bar, they begin to separate the rack from the fist and carefully remove it through the wheel arch.
The installation of a new part is carried out in the reverse order. Here it is important to make sure that the shock absorber mark on the upper support "looks" towards the wheel (when the latter is lowered to the ground, you can tighten the thread).

Sometimes, in order to understand what is the cause of the breakdown, the rack itself is assembled and disassembled. At the same time, the part is installed in a vice and the spring is weakened. Then it remains to remove and disassemble the parts under the spring, change the shock absorbers in pairs. It remains to assemble everything in the reverse order (tightens also on the wheel).

Front suspension strut nissan almera

If it's about the stabilizer, then the beginning will also be almost the same - the car rises and the wheels are removed. Next, it remains to take the following steps:

Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer mounts to the cross member and unscrew the nuts securing the control arms. After that, the stabilizer is removed through the arch.
The pillows are being replaced with new rubber ones.
When reassembling, we make sure that the marks "look" at the rear of the vehicle.

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The crossbar also breaks. It is possible to remove and install it like this:

The beginning is similar to the previous processes. It is also important here to block the hub itself from rotating (remove the cotter pin from the lock nut and unscrew the nut).
Unscrew the joint retaining nut from the tie rod towards the steering knuckle.
Disconnect the rod from the steering knuckle (a puller will help).
Unscrew the joint retaining nut from the lower suspension arm and disconnect it from the knuckle. After that, unscrew the steering knuckle and the strut - and it will already be possible to remove the tail from the hinge of the front wheel shaft.
Repeat on the other side of the machine and remove the stabilizer. After unscrewing the remaining bolts, both suspension arms are also removed.

Nissan almera classic cross member.

During installation, all wheels must be checked and adjusted. Before doing this, you must do the following:

check the pressure in the tires (they must be of the same size);
check the joints and bearings at the front wheel hub;
bleed the car's suspension.

If during the check it turns out that the hub bearing requires replacement, then here they are guided by simple recommendations. Here they are :

Also, the car is lifted and the wheel is removed.
It turns away from the brake caliper (the brake hose does not move).
In the presence of ABS, the sensor is removed.
The hub is blocked.
The fastening nut is removed from the hinge in relation to the steering knuckle.
The brake disc itself is removed.
To remove the hubs, it will be necessary to press it a little with a mandrel and remove it with a puller.
Next, the cuffs of the bearing itself are turned out with a screwdriver and its retaining ring is removed.
Before installing a new bearing, a layer of grease is applied to it, both the hub and the seat itself are thoroughly cleaned. Then everything is assembled in the reverse order using a mandrel.

In Nissan Almera, suspension repairs may include rear suspension operations. The latter is a semi-independent part with the following mappings:

cross beam;
telescopic racks;
springs are cylindrical.

Shock absorbers are also involved. The movement is strictly vertical. How it looks schematically is shown below (1 - bolts for attaching the pillar to the body;
2 - nut of the shock absorber rod)

To remove and install this type of suspension, the rear of the vehicle is lifted and secured. Access to the working area goes through the luggage compartment (under the rug, remove the protective cap and unscrew two nuts). At the same time, a bolt is unscrewed from the bottom of the machine, which attaches the strut to the rear suspension beam. It remains to remove the rack through the wheel arch (and installation is in the reverse order).

Rear suspension arm Nissan Almera

Removing the beam is much more difficult. But probably :

The car is lifted and secured.
Rear wheels are removed.
Fluid is pumped out of the brake system reservoir.
The brake hoses and wheel sensors are disconnected (if there is ABS).
The parking brake cable is disconnected - then it is released from the beam clips.
The beam is propped up and the lever fastening bolt is turned out.
The same applies to the telescopic struts on the rear beam.
After that, the trailing arm bolts at the body are unscrewed and the beam is carefully removed.
Installation is upside-down, but it is better to replace all nuts.
The brake system is pumped.

Removing and installing rear suspension beam Nissan Almera.

The rear wheel hub needs to be replaced. This operation is done assembled:

The car is lifted and secured. After that, the wheel itself is removed.
Now it's time to pay attention to the complete set of the machine - to remove the brake drum or brake disc together with the guides.
The protective cap is removed from the hub and the nut is removed. Only then is the hub itself removed.
To be installed in the reverse order, but before that the cap is filled with grease.

The layout of the rear wheel hub

Axial clearance is also relevant. Do not exceed 0.05 mm at the hub.

Plans do not stand still, now forces have been thrown into the repair of the front suspension.The following was supposed to replace:- stand assembly Shinkai
- silent blocks (front and rear) of the front levers VTR
- ball CTR
- Mando steering tipsOrder is the key to high-quality and efficient workBefore removing the racks, we made notes, although it was possible not to do this, because it is impossible to confuse.Rack Mount MarksThe old struts were in a completely deplorable state, they leaked, the anthers were broken, the springs got hooked, in general, we replaced them with new ones, and completely assembled, we took ShinkaiOld racks on the left, new Shinkai on the rightI’ll write a summary of the racks right away, we put them last, of course ...After the very first exit from the speed bump, I received such a heavy blow to the right, we think, what is it? everything is collected, everything is correct, everything is new. We called the rack seller, explained the situation, he replaced us the right rack completely under warranty, it did not help ...
We went to diagnose the suspension, it turned out that the springs are stiff, they called the seller again, he brought us other springs, we changed them, put Japanese OBKs, it got better, but the front of the car is still a little battered. In general, the problem seems to be solved, we will roll these springs and struts. Over time, they will sag, even good, at least I stopped sticking into the curbs))Then we got down to the steering tips.
We bought in advance a puller for tips and ball, tk. to hammer mercilessly with a sledgehammer on them - this is the last century, when they do this at STOs - it's somehow not at all professional.It looks like this:Removing the steering tip with a pullerIt was not possible to unscrew the lock nuts even with a meter lever, so the idea came to warm up the tips:By the way, before removing both tips, we took measurements with a caliper, so as not to greatly disturb the existing wheel alignment.By the way, it is interesting that on both ends the thread turned out to be right-handed, although even in the manual it is written that right and left.The tip is attracted by the nut under the cotter pin and the cotter pin is actually inserted. By the way, not all handpieces include nuts and cotter pins when ordering, so we had to buy separately.
Handpiece view after installation:Installed steering tipIn general, everything is with the tips.Next are the levers.
The peculiarities of the levers on the almera are that the ball ones are pressed into the lever, the rear silent block is pressed into the bracket.
In fact, usually the rear is changed with the bracket, because they sometimes burst when repressed, but we are supporters of economical repairs, so the levers and brackets remain the same.

As an example, I will show how the rear silent block with a bracket looked like before and afterrear bushings of the front leversAt that time, we did not have a press for repressing silent blocks, so we went to the service station. Gave almost 2k for both levers.
Now there is a press, if you wish, write, we will make it cheaper.That's it, then we put the levers in place.DON'T FORGETthat the tightening torques must be taken into account when tightening the suspension bolts, a torque wrench is a must. We look at all the numbers in the internet or in a book.Front arm bracket tightening processThe bolt on the front bushing must be tightened only after the car was lowered onto the wheels, i.e. essentially after complete assembly.By the way, when installing all the bolts, including those on the struts on the steering knuckle, they were lubricated with special anti-corrosion aviation grease.After passing the diagnostics at the service station, there were no complaints about the work performed, which indicates the quality of the work done.After the repair, of course, I made a toe-out and ... for some reason now pulls to the right, did it 3 times, the first 2 in the database were not specifically my car. I'll try to shuffle the wheels in places.I have long wanted to do away with minor annoying tapping in the front suspension. As a result of the inspection, it turned outLet's show you how to do it yourself to replace the front suspension arms in a Nissan Almera N16 car. A video in good quality, where the process of replacing the front levers is shown in detail and step by step, at the beginning, however, there is a slight deviation from the topic for 2 minutes. You can easily repeat everything with your own hands in the garage or even near the house.Very often, when replacing levers, you are faced with a situation where the bolts sour, therefore, you cannot do without the well-known WD-40 tool, the fasteners should be soaked in this tool for at least a couple of minutes.Levers of these companies can be bought, time-tested and numerous reviews: Lucas TRW, MooG
These levers are not worth buying, a lot of negative reviews, bad personal experience: Febi / Bilschtein, HerzogFront Right Suspension Arm TRW - Parts Catalog Number JTC 7573
Front Left Suspension Arm TRW - Parts Catalog Number JTC 7574The price of each lever at the time of installation is on average 3,500 rubles.Video of replacing the front levers in the Nissan Almera N16:

All work must be carried out using a hoist. The very replacement of silent blocks in the Nissan Almera Classic takes about 2 hours with the help of a partner.

It is not necessary to tighten the rear bushings when suspended. If you do this, then there is a great chance that they will break off soon, and fixing will be expensive.

Using a car lift, raise the vehicle to the desired height.

Find the mounting bolts on the front wheels. Take them off.

Remove the wheels and set them aside so they don't get in the way.

Find the three bracket fixing bolts and unscrew them.

Using the angle grinder, you need to make a small cut at the edge, remove the remnants of the worn out part and remove the metal clip. File carefully so that there is no damage to the lever stem.

Take a knife. Next, make a cut in the silent block. Take a chisel, you can also use a screwdriver. Then remove, and if it does not work, then knock out this part.

It is necessary to inspect the worn out silent block.

Install the silent block in the opposite order. To successfully mount it, you need to use a puller from another car, a hammer or a press machine.

Repeat the steps with the other silent block, having removed the wheels and brake disc in advance, and the hub should be pushed aside.

Put the rest of the parts in the reverse order of parsing.

After installing the silent blocks, you need to check their work: are there any creaks, is everything in order.

This procedure can be successfully carried out in the garage, and the money saved can be used to buy better materials.

1. Secure the vehicle. You need to use anti-rollbacks and place them under the rear wheels. Take a jack, lift the car in front and remove the wheel.

We carry out the breakdown and tightening of the wheel nuts only when the car is lowered.

When we change the lever on the right to Nissan Almera N 16, turn the wheel to the right side, but do not pull the key out of the lock. This will provide easy access to the ball, because the trunnion will not be able to move when unscrewing the nut. We do everything the other way around in relation to the left one.

Unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
To disengage the taper unit, several precise hammer blows must be made in the area of the steering knuckle.
Unscrew the nut of the bolt for the front fastening of the arm to the beam. Then pull out the bolt.
Using the tool, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the rear silentblock and dismantle the lever itself.

The lever is installed in reverse order. Tighten the nut on the ball joint and install the wheel, lowering the car to the ground, tighten the wheel.

An obligatory moment: after the repair it is necessary to go through the wheel alignment and camber adjustment.

Replacing the rear beam bushings, as well as the front levers, is not so difficult. You just need to have certain tools with you and understand the structure of those auto units that you are going to repair.

Independent front suspension, MacPherson type, with triangular wishbones and anti-roll bar.

The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock-absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving over irregularities and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

From the bottom, the rack is attached with two bolts and nuts to the steering knuckle, and from the top - with a nut through a rubber-metal support to the body.

The lower support spring cup is welded to the middle part of the strut housing, and a bracket for attaching the strut to the steering knuckle is welded to the lower part of the strut. A compression stroke buffer is installed on the shock absorber rod, made integral with a protective cover. From above, the spring rests against the upper support cup mounted on the shock absorber rod. A thrust ball bearing is installed between the upper spring cup and the upper strut support, which allows the strut housing to rotate with the spring, and the shock absorber rod to remain stationary.

The braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms, connected through ball bearings with steering knuckles and through silent blocks with a subframe.

The subframe is rigidly attached to the body with four bolts, while the two rear bolts also attach the anti-roll bar brackets to the subframe. At the end of the bolt of the front attachment of the suspension arm to the subframe, a subframe bracket is fastened with a nut, the other end of which is attached to the body.

The body of the ball joint is pressed into the hole of the suspension arm, the support is covered with a rubber boot. The ball pin is clamped with a pinch bolt in the steering knuckle lug.

A double-row closed-type ball bearing is pressed into the bore of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.

The inner rings are tightened through the hub with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge of the wheel drive housing. In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication. One of the two hub bearing shields is the master disk for the front wheel speed sensor. The nuts of the bearings of the hubs of both wheels are the same, with a right-hand thread.

Lateral stability stabilizer is installed on the car, which is designed to increase lateral stability and reduce body roll angles by twisting the middle part of the bar when moving its ends.

The anti-roll bar is made of spring steel. The bar in its middle part is attached to the subframe with brackets through rubber cushions. Both ends of the stabilizer bar are connected to the suspension arms through screws with rubber and rubber-metal bushings.

The caster angle of the steering axis of the front wheel and the camber angle of the wheel are given structurally and cannot be adjusted in operation. These angles can only be checked on a special stand (at a service station) and compared with the reference values. In the event that the values of the angles of the front wheels do not correspond to the control values, it is necessary to check the condition of the elements of the front suspension.

Toe-in is adjusted by changing the length of the steering rods.

Cause of malfunction

Elimination method

Noise and knocking in the suspension when the vehicle is moving

1. Defective suspension struts

1. Replace or repair stands

2. The bolts securing the brackets of the braces or the bolts securing the anti-roll bar to the body are loose.

Worn rubber cushions or barbells

2. Tighten the bolts, replace the worn out pads

3.The fastening of the upper support of the suspension strut to the body is loose

3. Tighten the nuts securing the upper support

4. Settling, ruptures, peeling of rubber from the strut support body

5. Wear of rubber-metal hinges of suspension arms, stretch marks or stabilizer bar struts

6. Wear of the ball joint of the suspension arm

6. Replace the ball joint

7. Settling or breakage of the suspension spring

8. Destruction of the compression stroke buffer

9. Large imbalance of wheels

3. Shrinkage or damage to the strut body O-ring (shock absorber reservoir)

1. Suspension spring settlement

Increased ball joint clearance

Wear of the rubbing surfaces of the ball joint parts as a result of contamination caused by leakage or damage to the cover

Driving the car away from straight-line movement

1. Different tire pressures

1. Set normal pressure

2. Violation of wheel alignment angles

2. Adjust the wheel alignment angles

3. Destruction of one of the upper suspension struts

4. Unequal elasticity of suspension springs

4. Replace the loose spring

5. Significant difference in tire wear

5. Replace worn tires

6. Increased imbalance of the front wheels

Increased tire tread wear

1. Too sharp acceleration with wheel slip

1. Avoid overclocking

2. Frequent use of brakes with locking wheels

2. When braking, do not bring the wheels to lock.

3. Wheel alignment angles are violated

3. Adjust the wheel alignment angles

4. Do not exceed the permissible loads stated in the instruction manual.

Uneven tire tread wear

1. Increased speed when cornering

1. Reduce speed when cornering.

2. Large wear of ball joints of suspension arms and rubber-metal joints

Front suspension:
1 - stretcher;
2 - suspension arm with silent blocks and a ball joint;
3 - steering fist with hub and bearing;
4 - shock absorber rack;
5 - the bar of the anti-roll bar

The front suspension on the new Nissan Almera is independent, of the McPherson type with triangular wishbones and an anti-roll bar (on some cars).

The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock-absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving over irregularities and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

From below, the rack is attached with two bolts and nuts to the steering knuckle, and from above with a nut through a rubber-metal support to the body.

Front suspension elements:
1 - lever;
2 - stretcher;
3 - bolt of fastening of the lever to the subframe;
4 - bar of the anti-roll bar;
5 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the subframe;
6 - shock absorber rack;
7 - steering fist;
8 - fastening elements of the stabilizer bar to the lever;
9 - clamping bolt of the terminal connection of the steering knuckle and the pin of the ball joint;
10 - ball joint

To effectively damp body vibrations and improve the handling and stability of the vehicle, a double-tube gas-filled shock absorber is installed in the strut housing, which has higher characteristics than a conventional hydraulic shock absorber. The lower support spring cup is welded to the middle part of the strut body, and a bracket for attaching the strut to the steering knuckle is welded to the lower part of the strut. A compression stroke buffer is installed on the shock absorber rod, made integral with a protective cover. From above, the spring rests against the upper support cup mounted on the shock absorber rod. A thrust ball bearing is installed between the upper spring cup and the upper strut support, which allows the strut housing to rotate with the spring, and the shock absorber rod to remain stationary.

Stretcher:
1 - points of the front attachment of the subframe to the body;
2 - points of attachment of the suspension arm to the subframe;
3 - points of rear attachment of the subframe and anti-roll bar;
4 - bracket for fastening a cushion of a suspension of an exhaust system;
5 - bracket for fastening the rear support of the power unit

Front suspension arm:
1 - lever;
2 - support cover;
3 - ball bearing;
4 - silent block

The braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms, connected through ball bearings with steering knuckles and through silent blocks with a subframe.