Nissan Almera N16 do-it-yourself front suspension repair

In detail: nissan almera n16 do-it-yourself front suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repairing the shock absorber of the telescopic strut usually does not lead to the desired result, therefore, if necessary, we recommend replacing the shock absorber.
You will need: an 8 key, a 17 spanner, a spring compression tool.

1. Remove the shock absorber strut from the vehicle (see "Removing and installing the front suspension shock absorber strut").

2. Remove the spacer from the rack support.

3. Install the spring compressor and compress the spring.

4. While holding the shock absorber rod with an “8” open-end wrench, unscrew the rod nut with a “17” ring wrench.

5. Remove the top support of a rack.

6. . upper spring plate with compression buffer.

8. Inspect the top support of the rack. Cracking and delamination of the rubber array from the metal base are not allowed. Replace the defective support.

9. Check up the basic bearing of a rack. Its rings should rotate relative to each other easily and without sticking.

10. Inspect the compression buffer and protective cover. If the compression buffer or protective boot is damaged, replace the assembly with a new one.

11. Remove the rubber gasket from the upper spring plate.

12. Replace a heavily compressed or torn gasket with a new one.

13. Inspect the spring. Replace the spring with deformed or broken coils.

NOTE: Replace springs only in pairs (left and right at the same time).

14. If the lower gasket is frayed on a working spring, remove it from the spring and replace it with a new one.

15. Inspect the rack parts. If cracks, deformations and destructions are found on the strut body, lower spring cup, mounting brackets to the steering knuckle, replace the strut. It is forbidden to carry out welding work on the stand - this may affect traffic safety.

Video (click to play).

16. Install the shock absorber vertically and release and raise the shock absorber rod several times until it stops. Make sure that the stem moves without dips, jams and knocks. Otherwise, replace the shock absorber. In addition, replace the damper if there is evidence of fluid leaking (slight sweating of the top of the body is acceptable) and if the threads on the top of the stem are damaged.

WARNING: Replace shock absorbers only in pairs (left and right at the same time).

17. Assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order of disassembly. Tighten the shock absorber rod nut to a torque of 59-73 Nm 16.0-7.5 kgcm).

This is how the parts of the shock absorber strut look, laid out in the order of their installation.

When assembling the shock absorber rack, install the rack support so that the mark on the support.

. coincided with the mark on the upper plate of the spring, and both marks, when installing the rack on the car, should be directed towards the outside of the car.

18. Install the shock absorber strut on the vehicle (“Removing and installing the front suspension shock absorber strut”).

NOTE: After repairing the shock absorber, check and if necessary the wheel alignment. Use the services of workshops with special equipment.

To change the Nissan Almera N16 front suspension arm with your own hands, garage conditions are enough, preferably with an inspection hole, as well as a standard set of tools, because the work of replacing the front arm is relatively easy, and all you need is to be able to turn the nuts.

Before starting the process, it is advisable to treat all fastening nuts with a rust remover.To remove the ball joint, it is advisable to use a special puller.

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This part is needed by the car to dampen those vibrations that occur when driving on rough roads. Another task of the suspension is traffic safety, strength and durability in operation.

Diagram of the chassis Nissan Almera

In Nissan Almera, the chassis (as in other cars) is represented by two types of suspensions. This:

front (independent);
back (semi-independent).

The hinges included in each of them should turn easily and effortlessly. And in order to understand in which cases it is necessary to replace each of them, you need to know what constitutes running nissan almera n16.

This part of the chassis is independent. It consists of wishbones and telescopic hydraulic struts with shock absorbers. Stabilizers are provided for stability. Her work is based on the following principles:

The lower arms are attached to a cross member attached to the suspension.
For the rotation of the upper support, a bearing specially stuck into it is responsible.
The softness of the ride is the prerogative of the double-acting shock absorbers installed in this model.
The steering knuckles themselves are connected to the lower knuckles by means of ball joints.
The stabilizer for stability is a cross-sectional bar. It is attached to the cross member from the front suspension and puts a load on the arms and mounts.
The wheel hubs themselves are rotated by double-row bearings (they are installed in the steering knuckles).

The aspects described in more detail are highlighted in the photo and description of the nissan almera 2005 chassis. Below is a picture:

photo and description of chassis nissan almera 2005

According to what this diagram shows for running gear nissan almera, work is being done with this part of the car. If necessary, removal and subsequent installation proceed in stages:

Raise and secure the front of the machine.
The wheel is removed
Unfasten the nuts of the rack supports.
Disconnect the brake hose clamp.
The lower mounting bolts are turned out and removed.
Now, with the help of a mount, they begin to separate the rack from the fist and carefully remove it through the wheel arch.
Installing the new part is done in reverse order. Here it is important to make sure that the shock absorber mark on the upper support “looks” towards the wheel (when the latter is lowered to the ground, you can tighten the thread).

Sometimes, in order to understand what is the cause of the breakdown, they assemble and disassemble the rack itself. At the same time, the part is placed in a vise and the spring is weakened. Then it remains to remove and disassemble the parts under the spring, change the shock absorbers in pairs. It remains to assemble everything in the reverse order (it is also tightened on the wheel).

front suspension nissan almera

If the matter is in the stabilizer, then the beginning will also be almost the same - the car rises and the wheels are removed. Next, it remains to take these steps:

Unscrew the bolts that secure the stabilizer pads to the cross member and unscrew the nuts attaching to the levers. After that, the stabilizer is removed through the arch.
The cushions are being replaced with new rubber ones.
When reassembling, we pay attention so that the marks “look” at the back of the vehicle.

The cross bar is broken too. It is possible to remove and install it like this:

The beginning is similar to the previous processes. Here it is also important to block the hub itself from rotation (remove the cotter pin from the lock nut and unscrew the nut).
Loosen the pivot nut from the tie rod towards the steering knuckle.
Disconnect the rod from the steering knuckle (a puller will help).
Unscrew the pivot nut from the lower control arm and disconnect it from the knuckle. After that, unscrew the steering knuckle and the rack - and it will already be possible to remove the tail from the front wheel shaft hinge.
Repeat on the other side of the car and remove the stabilizer. After unscrewing the remaining bolts, both suspension arms are also removed.

Nissan Almera classic crossbar.

When installing, all wheels must be checked and adjusted. Before doing this, you must do the following:

check the pressure in the tires (they must be the same size);
check the hinges and bearings at the front wheel hub;
bleed the car's suspension.

If during the check it turns out that the hub bearing needs to be replaced, then simple recommendations are followed here. Here they are :

The car is also lifted and the wheel is removed.
It turns away from the brake caliper (the brake hose does not move).
With ABS, the sensor is removed.
The hub is blocked.
The fastening nut is removed from the hinge in relation to the steering knuckle.
The brake disc is removed.
To remove the hubs, it will be necessary to compress it a little with a mandrel and remove it with a puller.
Next, the cuffs of the bearing itself are turned out with a screwdriver and its retaining ring is removed.
Before installing a new bearing, a layer of lubricant is applied to it, both the hub and the seat itself are thoroughly cleaned. Then everything is assembled in the reverse order using a mandrel.

In Nissan Almera, chassis repair may include operations with the rear suspension. The latter is a semi-independent detail with the following matchers:

cross beam;
telescopic racks;
springs are cylindrical.

Shock absorbers are also included. Movement is strictly vertical. How it looks schematically is shown below (1 - bolts for attaching the rack to the body;
2 - shock absorber rod nut)

To remove and install this type of suspension, the rear of the vehicle is raised and secured. Entry into the working area is through the luggage compartment (the protective cap is removed under the mat and two nuts are unscrewed). At the same time, a bolt is unscrewed from the bottom of the machine, which secures the rack to the rear suspension beam. It remains to remove the rack through the wheel arch (and installation occurs in the reverse order).

Rear Suspension Arm Nissan Almera

Removing the beam is much more difficult. But probably :

The car is lifted and fixed.
The rear wheels are removed.
Fluid is being pumped out of the brake fluid reservoir.
Disconnect brake hoses and wheel sensors (if equipped with ABS).
The parking brake cable is disconnected - after that it is released from the beam clamps.
The beam is supported and the lever fastening bolt is turned out.
Similarly, they "do" with telescopic racks on the rear beam.
After that, the bolts of the trailing arms at the body are turned out and the beam is carefully removed.
Installation is in the reverse order, but it is better to replace all the nuts.
The brake system is pumping.

Removal and installation of the rear suspension beam Nissan Almera.

The rear wheel hub needs to be replaced. This operation is done in assembly:

The car is raised and secured. After that, the wheel itself is removed.
Now it's time to pay attention to the equipment of the machine - remove the brake drum or brake disc along with the guides.
At the hub, the protective cap is removed and the nut is removed. Only after that the hub itself is removed.
It is installed in the reverse order, but before that the cap is filled with grease.

Arrangement of the hub of the rear wheel a / m

Axial clearance is also relevant. Do not exceed 0.05 mm at the hub.

Plans do not stand still, now forces have been thrown to repair the front suspension.The following was supposed to be replaced:— rack assembly Shinkai
- silent blocks (front and rear) of the front levers VTR
— ball CTR
- Mando steering tipsOrder is the key to high-quality and efficient workBefore removing the racks, we made notes, although it was possible not to do this, because. it is impossible to confuse.Rack mount marksThe old racks were in a very poor condition, they leaked, the anthers were broken, the springs sat down, in general, we replaced them with new ones, and completely assembled, we took ShinkaiOld racks on the left, new Shinkai on the rightI’ll immediately write a summary of the racks, of course we put them last ...After the very first exit from the speed bump, I received such a not weak blow from the right, we think, what is it? everything is assembled, everything is correct, everything is new. We called the seller of the racks, explained the situation, he replaced the right rack for us completely under warranty, it didn’t help ...
We went to the suspension diagnostics, it turned out that the springs were stiff, called the seller again, he brought us other springs, we changed them, put Japanese OBK, it got better, but the front of the machine is still a little bullied. In general, the problem seems to have been solved, we will roll these springs and racks. Over time, they will sag, it’s even good, at least I stopped sticking into the curbs))Next we got to the steering tips.
We bought a puller for tips and ball joints in advance, because. hammering ruthlessly with a sledgehammer at them is the last century, when they do this at STOshki - this is somehow completely unprofessional.It looks something like this:Removing the steering tip with a pullerThe lock nuts could not be unscrewed even with a meter lever, so the idea came to warm up the tips:By the way, before removing both tips, we took measurements with a caliper so as not to greatly disturb the existing wheel alignment.By the way, it is interesting that on both tips the thread turned out to be right-handed, although even the manual says that it is right-handed and left-handed.The tip is attracted by a nut under the cotter pin and the cotter pin is actually inserted. By the way, not all tips come with nuts and cotter pins when ordering, we had to buy separately.
Handpiece view after installation:Mounted steering knuckleIn general, everything with tips.Next are the levers.
The features of the levers on the Almeria are that the ball joints are pressed into the lever, the rear silent block is pressed into the bracket.
In fact, usually the rear is changed with a bracket, because. they sometimes burst during repressing, but we are supporters of economical repairs, so the levers and brackets remain the same.

For example, I will show how the rear silent block with a bracket looked before and afterrear silent blocks of front leversAt that time, we did not have a press for repressing silent blocks, so we went to the service station. Gave almost 2k for both levers.
Now there is a press, if you want, write, we will do it cheaper.Everything, then put the levers in place.DON'T FORGETthat the tightening torques must be taken into account when tightening the suspension bolts, a torque wrench is an indispensable tool. We look at all the numbers on the Internet or in a book.Front arm bracket tightening processThe bolt on the front silent block needs to be tightened only after the car was lowered onto the wheels, i.e. in fact after a complete assembly.By the way, when installing all the bolts, including those on the struts on the steering knuckle, they were lubricated with a special anti-corrosion aviation grease.After passing the diagnostics at the service station, there were no complaints about the work performed, which indicates the quality of the work done.After the repair, of course, I did the collapse of the convergence and ... for some reason now it pulls to the right, I did it 3 times, the first 2 in the database was not specifically my car. I'll try to shuffle the wheels in places.For a long time I was going to do away with small annoying tapping in the front suspension. As a result of the inspection, it turned outWe will show how to do it yourself to replace the front suspension arms in a Nissan Almera N16 car. The video is in good quality, where the process of replacing the front levers is shown in detail and step by step, at the beginning there is a slight digression from the topic for 2 minutes. You can easily repeat everything with your own hands in the garage or even near the house.Very often, when replacing levers, you encounter a situation where the bolts turn sour, so you can’t do without the well-known WD-40 tool, the fasteners should be soaked in this tool for at least a couple of minutes.The levers of these companies can be bought, tested by time and numerous reviews: Lucas TRW, MooG
These levers are not worth buying, many negative reviews, bad personal experience: Febi/Bilschtein, HerzogSuspension arm front right TRW - part number JTC 7573
Suspension arm front left TRW - part number JTC 7574The price of each lever at the time of installation is an average of 3500 rubles.Video replacement of the front levers in the Nissan Almera N16:

All work must be carried out using a lift. The very replacement of silent blocks in the Nissan Almera Classic takes about 2 hours with the help of a partner.

It is not necessary to tighten the rear silent blocks in a suspended state. If you do this, then there is a great chance of their early failure, and repair will be expensive.

Use the car lift to raise the car to the desired height.

Locate the mounting bolts on the front wheels. Take them off.

Remove the wheels and set them aside so as not to interfere.

Locate the three bracket fixing bolts and unscrew them.

With the help of an angle grinder, you need to make a small notch at the edge, remove the remnants of the worn part and remove the metal clip. Carefully file the file so that there is no damage to the lever stem.

Take knife. Next, make a cut in the silent block. Take a chisel, you can also a screwdriver. Then remove, and if it doesn’t work, then knock out this part.

It is necessary to inspect the worn silent block.

You need to install the silent block in the opposite order to the analysis. To successfully mount it, you need to use a puller from another car, a hammer or a presser.

Repeat the steps with another silent block, having previously removed the wheels and brake disc, and the hub should be moved to the side.

Put the rest of the parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

After installing silent blocks, you need to check their work: are there any squeaks, is everything in order.

This procedure can be successfully carried out in the garage, and with the money saved you can buy better materials.

1. Fix the car. It is necessary to use counter-recoils and install them under the rear wheels. Take a jack, raise the front of the car and remove the wheel.

We carry out the breakdown and tightening of the wheel nuts only on the lowered car.

When we change the lever on the right to the Nissan Almera N 16, turn the wheel to the right, but do not pull the key out of the lock. So there will be easy access to the ball, because the trunnion will not be able to move when the nut is unscrewed. We do the opposite with respect to the left.

Remove the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
To disconnect the cone assembly, it is necessary to make several precise blows with a hammer in the area of \u200b\u200bthe steering knuckle.
Unscrew the nut of the bolt of the front fastening of the lever to the beam. Next, pull out the bolt.
Using a tool, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the rear silent block and dismantle the lever itself.

The lever is installed in the reverse order of disassembly. Tighten the nut on the ball joint and install the wheel, lowering the car to the ground, tighten the wheel.

Mandatory moment: after repair, it is necessary to go through the adjustment of the camber of the wheels.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, as well as the front levers, is not so difficult. You just need to have certain tools with you and understand the structure of those auto components that you are going to repair.

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson type, with triangular wishbones and anti-roll bar.

The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving through bumps and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

From below, the rack is attached with two bolts and nuts to the steering knuckle, and from above - with a nut through a rubber-metal support to the body.

A lower spring support cup is welded to the middle part of the strut body, and a bracket for attaching the strut to the steering knuckle is welded to the bottom of the strut. A compression stroke buffer is installed on the shock absorber rod, made integral with the protective cover. From above, the spring rests against the upper support cup mounted on the shock absorber rod. A thrust ball bearing is installed between the upper spring cup and the upper strut support, allowing the strut body to rotate with the spring, and the shock absorber rod to remain stationary.

Braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms connected through ball bearings to the steering knuckles and through silent blocks to the subframe.

The subframe is rigidly attached to the body with four bolts, two rear bolts also fasten the anti-roll bar brackets to the subframe. At the end of the bolt of the front attachment of the suspension arm to the subframe, the subframe bracket is fixed with a nut, the other end of which is attached to the body.

The body of the ball joint is pressed into the hole of the suspension arm, the support is closed with a rubber boot. The ball joint pin is fastened with a terminal connection with a coupling bolt in the eye of the steering knuckle.

A closed-type double-row ball bearing is pressed into the hole of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.

The inner rings are pulled together through the hub with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge housing of the wheel drive. In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication. One of the two hub bearing shields is the front wheel speed sensor drive disk. Nuts of bearings of naves of both wheels identical, with the right carving.

A stabilizer bar is installed on the car, which is designed to increase lateral stability and reduce body roll angles by twisting the middle part of the bar when moving its ends.

The anti-roll bar is made of spring steel. The bar in its middle part is attached to the subframe with brackets through rubber cushions. Both ends of the stabilizer bar are connected to the suspension arms through screws with rubber and rubber-metal bushings.

The angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the front wheel and the angle of the wheel camber are set constructively and cannot be adjusted in operation. These angles can only be checked on a special stand (at a service station) and compared with control values. In the event that the values of the angles of the front wheels do not correspond to the control values, it is necessary to check the condition of the front suspension elements.

Toe-in is controlled by changing the length of the steering rods.

Cause of malfunction

Elimination Method

Noise and knocking in the suspension when the car is moving

1. Defective suspension struts

1. Replace or repair racks

2. The bolts of the brackets of the stretch marks or the bolts of the stabilizer bar to the body are loose.

Wear of rubber pads stretch marks or rods

2. Tighten bolts, replace worn pads

3.Weakened mounting of the upper support of the suspension strut to the body

3. Tighten the top support nuts

4. Sediment, tears, peeling of rubber from the rack support housing

5. Wear of rubber-metal hinges of suspension arms, stretch marks or stabilizer bar struts

6. Wear of the ball joint of the suspension arm

6. Replace ball joint

7. Settlement or breakage of the suspension spring

8. Destruction of the compression stroke buffer

9. Large wheel imbalance

3. Shrinkage or damage to the O-ring of the strut body (shock absorber reservoir)

1. Suspension spring settlement

Increased clearance in the ball joint

Wear of the rubbing surfaces of the parts of the ball joint as a result of contamination caused by leakage or damage to the boot

Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead

1. Different tire pressure

1. Set normal pressure

2. Violation of wheel alignment

2. Adjust wheel alignment

3. Destruction of one of the upper suspension strut mounts

4. Unequal elasticity of suspension springs

4. Replace the spring that has lost its elasticity

5. Significant difference in tire wear

5. Replace worn tires

6. Increased imbalance of the front wheels

Increased tire tread wear

1. Too sharp acceleration with wheel slip

1. Avoid hard accelerations

2. Frequent use of wheel lock brakes

2. When braking, do not bring the wheels to block

3. Violated wheel alignment

3. Adjust wheel alignment

4. Do not exceed the allowable loads specified in the instruction manual

Uneven tire tread wear

1. Increased cornering speed

1. Slow down when cornering

2. Large wear of ball joints of suspension arms and rubber-metal joints

Front suspension:
1 - subframe;
2 – suspension arm with silent blocks and ball joint;
3 – a rotary fist with a nave and the bearing;
4 - shock absorber;
5 – a bar of the stabilizer of cross stability

The front suspension on the new Nissan Almera is independent, MacPherson type with triangular wishbones and anti-roll bar (on parts of cars).

The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving through bumps and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

From below, the rack is attached with two bolts and nuts to the steering knuckle, and from above with a nut - through a rubber-metal support to the body.

Front suspension elements:
1 - lever;
2 - subframe;
3 – a bolt of fastening of the lever to a stretcher;
4 – a bar of the stabilizer of cross stability;
5 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the subframe;
6 - shock absorber;
7 – rotary fist;
8 - fastening elements of the stabilizer bar to the lever;
9 - coupling bolt of the terminal connection of the steering knuckle and ball joint pin;
10 - ball joint

To effectively dampen body vibrations and improve vehicle handling and stability, a two-tube gas-filled shock absorber is installed in the strut body, which has higher characteristics than a conventional hydraulic shock absorber. A lower spring support cup is welded to the middle part of the strut body, and a bracket for attaching the strut to the steering knuckle is welded to the bottom of the strut. A compression stroke buffer is installed on the shock absorber rod, made integral with the protective cover. From above, the spring rests against the upper support cup mounted on the shock absorber rod. A thrust ball bearing is installed between the upper spring cup and the upper strut support, allowing the strut body to rotate with the spring, and the shock absorber rod to remain stationary.

Stretcher:
1 - points of the front attachment of the subframe to the body;
2 - points of attachment of the suspension arm to the subframe;
3 - points of rear attachment of the subframe and anti-roll bar;
4 – an arm of fastening of a pillow of a suspension bracket of system of release of the fulfilled gases;
5 – an arm of fastening of a back support of the power unit

Front suspension arm:
1 - lever;
2 – support cover;
3 - ball bearing;
4 - silent block

Braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms connected through ball bearings to the steering knuckles and through silent blocks to the subframe.

The subframe is rigidly attached to the body with four bolts, two rear bolts also fasten the anti-roll bar brackets to the subframe. On the front bolt of the suspension arm to the subframe, a bracket is fixed with a nut, the second end of which is attached to the body.

Strut strut details:
1 - telescopic stand;
2 - spring;
3 - compression stroke buffer with a protective cover;
4 – a nut of fastening of a rack to a body;
5 - support washer;
6 – a nut of fastening of the top support;
7 – the top support of a rack;
8 - bearing of the upper support;
9 - the upper cup of the spring

Elements of the anti-roll bar:
1 - nut;
2 - lower rubber bushing;
3 - intermediate rubber-metal bushing;
4 - plastic washer;
5 - upper rubber bushing;
6 - screw;
7 - stabilizer bar;
8 - bracket;
9 – a pillow of a bar of the stabilizer

Front wheel hub:
1 – a rotary fist;
2 - hub bearing;
3 - adjusting ring of the speed sensor;
4 - wheel hub

The device of a double-row hub bearing (for clarity, the elements of one row are removed from the outer ring of the bearing):
1 - the outer ring of the bearing;
2 - the inner ring of the bearing;
3 - separator with balls;
4 - stuffing box;
5 - protective washer

The body of the ball joint is pressed into the hole of the suspension arm, the support is closed with a rubber boot.

The ball joint pin of the support is fastened with a terminal connection with a coupling bolt in the eye of the steering knuckle.

A closed-type double-row angular contact ball bearing is pressed into the hole of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.

The inner rings are tightened (through the hub) with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge housing of the wheel drive.

In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication.

Wheel bearings for vehicles with and without ABS are not interchangeable. Nuts of bearings of naves of both wheels identical, with the right carving.

A stabilizer bar is installed on some cars.

The angle of longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the front wheel (2°42’±30’) and the angle of the wheel camber (–0°10’±30’) are set by design and cannot be adjusted in operation. These angles can only be checked on a special stand (at a service station) and compared with control values. In the event that the values of the angles of the front wheels do not correspond to the control values, it is necessary to check the condition of the front suspension elements.

Toe-in (–0°10’±10’) is adjusted by changing the length of the steering rods (see "Replacing the tie rod end").

Good afternoon.
Here is a small question for the forum. Bought in 2006 a new Almera. Well, it has been running since then. But the little things are surprising. The fact that all sorts of pads were changed 2 times on the door and on the glass, the catalyst for 20 thousand km, the water flows into the cabin, then everything is fine. But what kills the most is the fact that the front windows, which are on electricity, rattle. In 2 branded service stations they tried to do something, to no avail. The verdict is a design feature.Well, on a Ford T, it’s probably a really design feature, but not on a Japanese (English) car in the 21st century. The question is, who has encountered this and how can it be cured without contacting a warranty service station?

In response to:
Good afternoon.
Here is a small question for the forum. Bought in 2006 a new Almera. Well, it has been running since then. But the little things are surprising. The fact that all sorts of pads were changed 2 times on the door and on the glass, the catalyst for 20 thousand km, the water flows into the cabin, then everything is fine. But what kills the most is the fact that the front windows, which are on electricity, rattle. In 2 branded service stations they tried to do something, to no avail. The verdict is a design feature. Well, on a Ford T, it’s probably a really design feature, but not on a Japanese (English) car in the 21st century. The question is, who has encountered this and how can it be cured without contacting a warranty service station?

In response to:
Today it has become customary that many Japanese brands oriented to European customers are produced not in the Land of the Rising Sun, but closer to the markets. The second generation Nissan Almera (body series N16), which was produced in the UK, in the city of Sunderland, is also distinguished by a similar “pedigree”, where, by the way, its older “sister” Primera was also assembled.

Almera is represented by three modifications: 3- and 5-door hatchbacks and 4-door sedan. After 2 years from the start of production, the model was restyled (see photo), after which its appearance became more consistent with the new corporate identity, the founder of which is considered the current generation of Primera (P12). The interior of the Almera has also been updated, adorned with a modified dashboard. More often in Ukraine there are post-styling versions.

The bodies resist the onslaught of time well, and light rust can appear only on cars of the first years of production - on the back of the bottom in the areas of the joints of the welds. Although it is very easy to prevent this trouble - you only need additional anti-corrosion treatment of the body.

Often, Almera owners complain about poor low beam headlights. The reason is poor-quality optics, more precisely, the plastic from which the base of the dipped beam bulb is made. At high temperatures, it melts, shifts, and, accordingly, the headlight adjustment is disturbed. It is not surprising that at one time there was a revocable campaign to replace the front optics.
Externally - excellent

The salon leaves a good impression - it looks quite modern, the controls are conveniently located, the ergonomics of the driver's seat does not cause any particular complaints. But, after talking with many Almera owners, we found out that not everything is as rosy as it seems. There are complaints about the quality of the finish - over time, inexpensive plastic begins to annoy with a creak, and ajar windows rattle unpleasantly. Noise isolation is poor, especially in the area of the rear wheel arches. The left A-pillar in all versions blocks the view, and in hatchbacks, visibility is also limited by fairly wide rear pillars.

Despite the current trend in the global automotive industry to increase the wheelbase with each new generation of models, in Almera it has remained unchanged (2535 mm, like its predecessor). This negatively affected the spaciousness of the cabin, as our Almera used more “inflated” interior details. To a greater extent, this applies to the gallery, which turned out to be smaller than many competitors. So, if tall people sit in front, then the knees of the rear passengers will rest against the backs of the front seats. Three of them are cramped in the back, and the heads of those sitting at the edges are in unpleasant proximity to the longitudinal bars of the roof. Getting out of the rear seats is a failure even in the more practical 5-door hatchbacks and sedan. The reason is the opening of the rear door narrowed from below, because of which you touch the lining of the central pillar with your foot.

At the same time, many Almeras operating in Ukraine are well equipped and able to attract potential buyers with electric mirrors and windows, power steering, airbags, central locking, immobilizer, air conditioning and ABS.
Oh that Euro!

Officially, gasoline versions of Almera were imported to Ukraine, and even among individually driven cars, diesel modifications are rare. Accordingly, there is a generalized operating experience of only “gasoline”.

The timing of both engines (1.5 l and 1.8 l) is equipped with a metal chain. Although, as it turned out, it does not differ in particular durability and will not “stretch” until the overhaul (about 300 thousand km) - according to the minders who advised us, it has to be changed at a run of 100-150 thousand km together with a hydraulic tensioner, and often - also with crankshaft and camshaft gears (set of original spare parts - $538, labor - $135). If this is not done, the stretched chain may turn, which will result in a “fatal” meeting of valves with pistons. The valve mechanism is not equipped with hydraulic compensators, although the adjustment of the thermal clearances of the valves is usually carried out when repairing the cylinder head.

Please note that gasoline engines designed for Euro 4 emission standards are sensitive to fuel quality. Due to poor gasoline, the service life of the catalyst is noticeably reduced, and since, in order to reduce exhaust toxicity, part of the exhaust gases is redirected back to the cylinders, particles of the worn catalyst honeycombs are sucked in with them due to deterioration of its throughput. The result is a cylinder-piston group. Cases of premature overhauls for this reason are not isolated, so experts advise: firstly, refuel only at proven gas stations, and secondly, periodically diagnose the catalyst. What is bad, it is also impossible to get rid of it without chip tuning, since two lambda probes are used in the engines: before and after the catalyst. Not suitable for our gasoline and the fuel system, which lacks a replaceable fine filter - it is made as a single unit with a fuel pump (original part - about $ 400).

At one time, engines were equipped with low-quality crankshaft position sensors (spare part - $48) and camshaft position sensors (spare part - $48). Due to their failure, the engine may not start.

The throttle valve needs periodic cleaning - if it is dirty, the engine is idling. After this procedure, it is necessary to make an adjustment to the idle speed of the engine, which can only be done using diagnostic equipment at a Nissan branded service station. Be careful when replacing spark plugs - depending on the type of engine, they can be with a short or long threaded part.
Worth listening

All Almeras are front-wheel drive cars that were equipped with a 5-speed "mechanics" or a 4-speed "automatic". Specialists have no complaints about the latter - no characteristic malfunctions have been identified during its operation. The maintenance of these units, as, indeed, of the "mechanics", consists in a regular oil change every 60 thousand km. The hydraulic clutch is also quite reliable.

But with a manual gearbox during operation, problems may arise - there have been cases of failure of the bearings. Therefore, when buying a used car, be sure to take a test drive and listen to how the manual transmission works. If with increased noise, then the unit is on the way.
Perfectly!

It is this assessment that can be put on the "running" Almera - even on our roads it is able to withstand a mileage of 100 thousand km. On average, the “consumables” of the McPherson front suspension have the same service life: silent blocks of levers, ball bearings and stabilizer bushings. True, when replacing, you will have to fork out - “ball” and “gum” change along with the levers (orig.spare part - $215, labor - $40). But the wheel bearings on both axles are changed separately. The silent blocks of the rear semi-dependent torsion beam last even longer than the front.

However, according to the owners, the Almera suspension is quite stiff. There are versions without a front stabilizer, which affects stability and controllability - when driving through bumps, an unpleasant diagonal buildup of the body and yaw occurs, which is why the driver has to taxi.

But there are no complaints about the durability of the steering, equipped with a hydraulic booster: even the tie rod ends can run about 100 thousand km.

The braking system on many modifications is equipped with front ventilated disc mechanisms and rear drum brakes (rear disc brakes are less common). A design feature is that there is no dirt-proof boot in front of the disc mechanisms, but, oddly enough, experts say that this does not affect the durability of the pads and caliper.
Not everything is gold....

Attractive appearance, good equipment and a more favorable market price compared to competitors - this is what Nissan Almera (N16) attracts potential buyers. However, when buying this model, you should be prepared for some tricks. It is not known, however, whose fault it is - Japanese developers or European manufacturers. But in many cases, the Almera gives the owner more trouble than a purebred Japanese.

Video (click to play).

Well, what can I say? Bachili eyes sho kupuvala.
It is treated by disassembling the filling of the doors and looking at what, how and where. –>

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