Nissan example p12 fuel pump DIY repair

In order to replace the fuel filter on the Nissan Primera in the P12 body, you will need to remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank, so first of all we take out the back seat and get to the fuel pump flap.

Now about removing the fuel pump and replacing the fuel filter in Example P12 in more detail:

1. Opening the fuel pump hatch cover, wipe the dirt from above with a rag, and then release the pressure in the fuel system, otherwise, when you throw off the fuel hose, you will be doused with gasoline.
2. When pulling out the fuel station assembly, be careful not to damage the float.
3. The fuel filter itself is in a plastic case and in order to get it and change it, you need to disassemble the structure with the fuel pump.

The analysis of the fuel station and the independent replacement of the fuel filter on the Nissan Example P12 is shown in detail in the video, so if you are the owner of such a car and it's time to change the filter, watch the video and find out how to cope with such a task with your own hands, paying only about 400 rubles per part without giving extra money at the service station for its replacement.

Instructions for cleaning the fuel pump mesh and a little about replacing the fuel filter

First of all, I would like to note that all work is carried out with no fuel in the tank.

1. First, remove the rear seat, for this you need to strongly pull up its edges.

2. Now, to get to the fuel pump hatch, you need to remove the left back of the rear seat

It is fastened with two screws, which you can see in the photo.

3. After removal, we see the place where the fuel pump is located

4. We twist the hatch cover and disconnect the terminals

5. Now you need to start the car to let excess pressure and gasoline from the fuel system.

6. Disconnect the hoses, having previously prepared a container for fuel residues that may flow from the left hose.

7. Then we unscrew the plastic large nut (I recommend first knocking down with a screwdriver and hammer)

8. Carefully take out all the insides together with the float.

And this is the mesh itself, which needs to be cleaned

And wipe the contact group of the fuel level sensor

9. Now we take out the pump itself. To do this, bend the latch that is in the back of it.

10. Now everything needs to be dried

11. Now you need to clean the mesh. To do this, you need a toothbrush, some acetone and gasoline.

It is advised to clean with acetone, then the mesh is also washed from paraffins clogging the mesh

Then put everything in reverse order.

More about the fuel filter, if you change it along with cleaning the mesh, then it's just nonsense) We find it under the hood.

unscrew the hoses, take a new filter, fasten the hoses.

12. We start to start the car. First, we just turn the key, but do not start it so that the pump shakes the gasoline a little.
13. We are trying to start for about five minutes, simultaneously shaking the gas pedal.

Mileage 57,000, not the fact that real, changes, improvement of dynamics are for sure, now I will measure the consumption of gasoline, in connection with which the filter was replaced.

Everything is in order.
Remove the back seat, turn the three counters counterclockwise, and remove the protection.

Under the protection we see the upper housing of the fuel pump, the counter, and the gasoline supply pipe to the engine.
We remove the chip, use pliers to remove the tube

After that, unscrew the 6 bolts with a Phillips screwdriver, and remove the plate

We bring the fuel pump home, where the wife doesn’t swear from the strong smell of gasoline, and I don’t have a garage to do it.

Next, the most interesting thing is to remove the top cover of the pump, which took me the most time, the fact is that the tube on the cover enters the filter pass and is hard to pull out. Slowly we twist the upper part of the pump and at the same time pull towards ourselves, only very carefully there are wires that can break off when the top cover is suddenly separated.

Then we detach the chip, remove the upper part and remove it to the side. Then we detach the bottom cover with the mesh, while gently hitting the pump from above and lo and behold, it is removed. There remains a tube and some sort of faucet-shaped thing, it can be easily removed by removing the locking part.

And this is the old fuel filter and the new fuel filter.

Conclusion.
Part number according to catalog 16400 2-Y505, according to EXITE it shows a fuel filter for Nissan X-Trail, the number looked according to the catalog, according to the engine number, the cost is 790 rubles.
In general all the best, do not break!

I decided to look at my fuel pump, for general development and for clarity when buying a new one. It looks like this:

He was attached to the tank with this
It turned out that the filter can be cleaned

There was such a rusty gruel on the net.
The filter looks like this:

I washed it with solvent and blew it with air and it became like this

The only interesting thing is that in this black jar, besides the pump itself, I tried to disassemble it, but I was afraid. She is some kind of carbolite, suddenly it cracks and did not

if anyone has the same pump and you disassembled it, tell me what's inside. Thanks and good luck.

1.6 mechanics, mileage 100K, 3.5 years
at idle twitches, vibration, especially noticeable in XX in second gear - it is impossible to go without a mat)))

climbed to see the state of the filter
when I cut off the hoses and liquid poured out of the filter from the pump side, to put it mildly, ofigel, there is rubber porridge.
decided to flush the filter in the opposite direction
flushing scheme in the figure =)

liquid for flushing the injector, left to work overnight

As a result, the car acquired its virginity, no vibration, excellent idle traction - no hesitation on the second XX 750. the gas pedal is responsive, the revs briskly jump and drop instantly to 750.
PLAGUE.

Yes. slightly increased the stiffness of the pressure relief valve, I don’t know how much it rose, I didn’t measure it

By the way, I put the pump recommended here from the VAZ, I thought since I got it, I’ll replace it, so I can’t have my hands from there, but with it the system draws air after any, even a short parking, it takes longer to start the engine with it. as a result, he returned his own, everything is OK with him

REPORT on filter cleaning for P12 2004 Jap.

To the attention of all all all))))
... I have a Nissan Primera 12 1.6L 2004 Europe (not in that salt)
VIN: SJNBAAP12U0155758
Guys I bought a BOSCH fuel pump today 0 580 313 101
(replaces 17040-AV710)

This pump is made by the Czechs, its cost is 5100 rubles.
.. Eugene is cheaper than Exist.
And then he was on his way - he even delivered it to me!)))
My own pump is also BOSCH and is also of Czech production.
Today I put it in the Buck! Satisfied.
I RECOMMEND TO ALL People who are faced with the problem of the fuel filter!
Do not fence what I suggested! 5t.r. such an imagination is not worth it!
+ on a new fuel pump, the car is going in a new way!
Odometer mileage 102,000 km - it is useful to change the pump every 100,000.

This pump "architecture" differs from my own,
but its fit and dimensions are the same. The characteristics are the same.

PS: Behind are those times when you fly at 12-13t.r. and you think to add something like that: insert a filter under the hood, or eat it ..

VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION AT MY LOOK.
black barrel (filter) - catalog 23300-0D020
Moroz
for Those who have a left-hand drive nut and RDT on top, DORESTYL. fuel module cat. number 17040-AV710, black kalybakha is a Toyota “non-removable filter”, its gas pump has a capacity more than vases

I'm sorry that it's clumsy, but I write with one finger

Miniatures

I post the promised pictures. On the left is a restyle filter, on the right is a dorestyle:

The fitting, connector and pinout of the connector are the same for restyle and dorestyle. But the fuel level sensor is different and the float on the restyle is 1 cm lower than on the dorestyle.

Consumable codes:
- fuel pump with a coarse mesh 17042-8H30A
- fuel filter 16400-2Y505
- check valve 22670-2Y500

The Restaylovsky filter consists of three parts: the upper one with a connector and a fitting, the middle and the lower one, on which the fuel level sensor is fixed. The filter is easy to disassemble: press on the two latches on the sides of the filter and pull the upper part up.

The fuel filter is non-separable, it comes in one housing with a gas pump and a check valve.

You can try to change it once and for all from the right-handed collapsible, but you have to look at how compatible they are.

No, it won't. The upper landing part is different in Japanese. With a wide flange onto which a washer with bolt holes is applied.

Although it looks like this picture.

Oh no. These are both from the Japanese Restayl and Dorestayl. There are just less compatible. Your mount is completely different. Only if you change the tank or collective farm adapter washer.

So your only option is:

The bottom line is that there is a pressure relief valve in the old filter, it cannot be ruled out! Therefore, a tee must be installed.

Nissan Primera P12. Removal and installation of the fuel rail of the QR 20 DE engine

You will need a 12 key.

1. Decrease the pressure in the power supply system (see "Decreasing the pressure in the power supply system of the engine", p. 149).

2. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

3. Disconnect the injector harness connector.

4. Remove the fuel hose from the holder.

5. Remove the fuel hose tip protective cap.

7.. and disconnect the fuel hose tip from the fuel line.

8. Remove the two bolts securing the fuel rail to the intake manifold.

This is how the bolts securing the fuel rail to the intake manifold are located (the upper part of the intake manifold has been removed for clarity).

9. . and remove the ramp by removing the injectors from the manifold holes.

Replace the O-rings of the injectors with new ones each time you remove or disassemble the fuel rail.

10. Install the fuel rail in the reverse order of removal, lubricating the injector O-rings with engine oil.

11. Having connected the fuel hose to the rail, start the engine and check the tightness of the hose-rail connection and the injector seals.

In this article we will tell and show you how you can replace the fuel filter in a Nissan car with your own hands. Detailed description and photo instructions. Use it!

When refueling a car, fuel with rust and other abrasive impurities can enter its fuel tank. In this case, the fuel must always pass through the injectors in a clean state to prevent contamination. For this, filtering devices were invented.

The main task of the fuel filter is to clean the fuel from microparticles (large elements are delayed by the filter installed in the fuel tank), which can ultimately lead to interruptions in the operation of the engine. Also, the device must provide a quick passage of fuel through the filter element.

Fuel filters are collapsible and one-piece. The filter design is very simple. It consists of:

The body of a modern filter is made of metal or durable plastic, since high pressure is created in the fuel system of injection and diesel vehicles.

Replacing the fuel filter in cars Nissan carried out every 15 thousand kilometers.

To select the correct fuel filter, it is recommended to refer to the instructions for the vehicle. Consider replacing the fuel filter (with a removable filter element) in a Nissan Primera. It is performed in several stages:

1. Removing the main elements (hoses) by pressing the clips.
2. Disconnecting the electrical connector located on the filter cover.
3. Removing the filter housing mount, which is held in place by two bolts.
4. Removing the filter housing.
5. Removing the filter cover. To do this, you need to unscrew one bolt.
6. Removing the filter element.
7. Installing a new filter element.
8. Replacement of two rubber bands (must be supplied).

and assembly in reverse order:

1. Installing the filter cover.
2. Installation of the filter housing and its fasteners.
3. Connecting the electrical connector.
4. Fixation of hoses.

Be sure to make sure that there is no pressure in the car's power supply system before you touch the filter itself. On Nissan Primera, this can be done as described in the 2nd point. Another option is to remove the fuse that keeps the fuel pump running. You can find out which fuse is responsible for this by reading the instructions on the fuse compartment cover or in the instructions for your car.

Replacing the filter on the Nissan Maxima is easy. Here is a photo instruction on how to do it.

First, remove the fuel pump fuse to relieve system pressure. Secondly, let's figure out where the fuel filter is. In the photo, the location is indicated by an arrow.

Take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the upper clamp.

After removing the clamp, you need to disconnect the hose. The hose is taut enough so you need a flat screwdriver. Place a screwdriver under the end of the hose and use it as a lever to pull the hose up.

When the hose is removed, turn the filter over. There will be a similar clamp on the back of the filter. We do the same and disconnect the fuel filter.

We take out a new one from the box, remove the protective caps and put it in its place. Also, first connect one hose, tighten the clamp. Then the second hose and also tighten the clamp.

That's all. In this way, you can easily replace the fuel filter on the Nissan Maxima.

On older Nissan models, the fuel filter is replaced by unscrewing the hose fittings that are connected to the filter inlet and outlet. In this case, the filter changes completely.

Manufacturers of current Nissan models have decided to install a fuel filter directly into the fuel pump, so it is replaced with the pump, which usually changes after one hundred thousand kilometers.

It is advisable to wear protective gloves when replacing the filter.

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The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. The control unit makes the fuel pump run for a short time after the ignition is turned off, in order to facilitate starting the engine.

As soon as the control unit receives the corresponding signal from the crankshaft position sensor, the engine rotates and the pump starts to work. If this signal is not received, the engine stops and the pump stops running, which conserves battery power and ensures reliability. The control unit drives the pump via a separate relay. On vehicles with a catalytic converter, a lambda probe is installed in the exhaust tract. It is sensitive to the presence of oxygen in the exhaust gas and changes the air-fuel mixture accordingly.

On the Nissan Almera, a fine fuel filter is combined with a fuel pump and changes only as an assembly (which is not cheap). Therefore, in order to clean it, you must:

1. Remove the rear seat cushion.

2. Relieve fuel pressure in the fuel line.

• We open the fuse box (on the left under the torpedo from the driver's side), on the cover there is a receipt, we look for a fuse with the inscription “FUEL PUMP” (2 column, 4 on top, 15A) - “fuel pump fuse”, take it out and start the car, after 3-4 seconds the engine will stall, we still do this a couple of times before the engine stops starting (grabbing), then we wait for about a minute and repeat the same thing a couple more times with an interval of a minute, the pressure in the system is released, but it is not possible to bleed everything.

• In order not to look for a fuse, you can simply remove the connectors from the gas tank flange under the seat and, without removing the hoses, start the engine several times.

3. Remove the filler cap and release the pressure inside the fuel tank.

4. Remove the cover of the inspection hole by unscrewing the necessary screws (three, black, plastic).

5. In order to get the fuel pump, you need to unscrew the large plastic nut (if you can't do it with your hands, a screwdriver will help). You will see a white glass, in which there is a gas pump itself (a small steel cylinder 10x3 cm), and around (in some models inside the glass, a yellow mesh) a dirty mesh.

6. Next, you need to remove the hoses: we press the plastic latches and carefully remove the return hose (which comes from the engine) it has an arrow directed to the gas pump, a little fuel (200-300gr.) Will flow from it under low pressure, nothing from the second hose there will be no leak (the main thing is not to damage the hoses).

8. We take out the fuel pump assembly, having previously disconnected the float (fuel level meter in the tank).

9. Disconnect the fuel hose, it is very oak, so you must act carefully.

10. Disconnect the fuel level sensor (float), then “some kind of sensor”, then three latches of the casing itself.

11. Fuel pump without casing, filter at the bottom.

13. Assembly is carried out upside-down.

To carry out all the manipulations you will need:

• enough rags;
• small glass or bottle (up to 300ml);
• cleaning agent (cleaning agent for injector flushing, gasoline, acetone, etc. of your choice);
• small basin;
• fire extinguisher.

Symptoms of a failed gasoline pump:

• Auto is not gaining momentum well
• At speeds above certain, the car begins to twitch (he himself faced this)
• In extremely neglected cases, the car does not respond to the gas pedal, and practically can only go at idle and in a straight line, up the slightest hill - no (I ran into this myself)
• Good engine start
• The car can stall while driving if you press the gas pedal.

Replacement equipment:

• screwdriver
• New fuel pump
• New strainer or carbocliner to clean old

The work was carried out jointly with the minus

The theory of replacing the fuel pump (gasoline pump)

First, you need to release the pressure in the system. You can, of course, and so, but at some point it wakes up a big wake up with a spray of gasoline, which not only hives all around, but also you at that moment when you do not deliberately try to shut up the whole thing with your hands. I’ll say right away that at first I didn’t let anything down, and then I didn’t let it down in a different way, but this very vigil was always shocking. Therefore, I will tell you how to properly release the pressure in the system:

We look at the figure on the right, go to our car and take out the specified fuse (to clarify - the fuel pump fuse is the sixth from the bottom in the second row). After removing the fuse, start the car and wait until the car stalls. after the car has stalled, start again and again wait, and once more. All pressure in the system is no further, disconnect the accumulator, just in case, and go to the back seat.

We went to the rear siduhi, remove it and put it on the roof, for example. Next, I follow the pictures on the right, we see the upper hatch under the siduha, unscrew 3 bolts on it, lift, turn off two chips, one of them is a gas pump, the other is a gasoline level sensor. after the chips have been turned off, we remove the entire upper hatch.

Further, while the gas tank hatch is still screwed on, we loosen the clamps, we try to rip off the hoses, as it is not difficult, but it is necessary to rip off. we tear off but do not remove, but push them to the very edge. By the way, you can remove the hose that is closer to the middle, it is to relieve excess pressure. we remove it, and that is still in place.Next, we unscrew all the screws from the gas tank hatch, unscrew it, raise it a little, so that if gasoline poured out of the hose, shove it quickly under this cover. That's it, the lid is unscrewed, the hoses are removed. move on to the next item.

Now you can start removing the fuel pump (fuel pump). I must say right away that do not pull the cover, the fuel level sensor is attached to it, and besides, the benzo pump is located in a special container, also fixed in the gas tank. What you need to do is lift the lid with the sensor, there the float will interfere with you to pull it out completely and the gas pump too, we run our hand into the tank and lift up the container with the fuel pump. raised, take out, then it will be more convenient for you to pull out the fuel level sensor, take out, remove the container from the fuel pump, disconnect the wires and hose from it.

After everything is removed, you can look into the gas tank with a flashlight, look in, look out for water or dirt there. The water in the gas tank can be easily seen, it does not mix with gasoline and wakes up to float at the bottom with bubbles, but evaluate the dirt yourself, if the fuel filter mesh is dirty and barely lets gasoline through and there is a suspension of dirt at the bottom of the gas tank, then you need to clean the gas tank (pour out the whole get gasoline and all the dirt). If there are water bubbles in your tank, then it can be driven out by the folk recipe suggested by Alex 266. And so if you find water in your tank, then go to the gas station and fill in a full tank of gasoline, then you need to add a liter of alcohol to this gasoline (it does not matter medical or technical), and drive. The thing is that gasoline does not mix with water, but alcohol mixes with water, and alcohol mixes with gasoline, so all the water from your tank will be processed!

Next, whoever changes only the fuel pump, we change it, put the lock nut back and assemble everything in the reverse order. The fuel pump in the gas tank is installed in a special place on the latch (in the gas tank it is visible in the photo) and the second half of the latch on the container for the gas pump. We grope and set. And for those who decided to change the mesh filter with which the pump was sold to you, be sure to read the next paragraph about the fuel pump mesh filter.

For those that change the fuel pump strainer, reading this paragraph is mandatory.

I bought a contract gas pump and it immediately had a strainer. and without any second thoughts, I installed a new gas pump with this very filter, although it was a little too long for the container for installing the gas pump, and during installation I had to bend the very edge of the mesh filter up. And that was a very big mistake. The filter that I put was one to one as shown in the photo.

since the mesh filter was bent upward with its nose, then when the fuel level in the tank reached about a little less than a quarter, the following happened, the pump sucks gasoline, but the nose is already in the tank, and the air passes through the filter more easily, and so, then the gas pump grabs a portion of the air, which digests more slowly, while the air is sucked in, gasoline again enters the inside of the strainer, and the gas pump again grabs a portion of gasoline, and everything starts over. And I could understand this only after attaching a special device for checking the fuel pressure (about it a little later). With this kind of work, not only does the car go in jerks, but also thereby the fuel pump itself deteriorates, this is how my new purchased fuel pump broke down.

Now about the strainers: put a new one if it is exactly the same as the old one, I mean all the distances from the pump tube to the edge of the filter. if it is the same, then everything is in the room, and if it is different, then we already think, if it sticks out longer, then for sure it will not enter and you will get the same situation as mine. After 3 weeks of torment and reflection, I went to the market and bought a mesh filter from some Korean, which is similar in slope and is not great in length.

I broke the old one right away, although the whole point turned out to be that it clogged up very hard, the gasoline did not even want to flow out of it. however, if the new filter does not suit you, we wash the old one. I washed the old one with the help of various chemicals, such as a parbocliner and a compressor. look at the photo.

Message biker "24 Jan 2011, 19:53

Fuel pump Nissan repair and replacement. (Gasoline pump)
Hello everyone, this is the second time I come across this problem and now my hands have reached the point of writing.
Actually, everyone knows about the periodic failure of the fuel pump in our already tired four-wheeled friends. You should NOT run headlong to look for a used pump (more than 3 thousand rubles) and even more so to order a new one (more than 20 thousand rubles). Fortunately, no matter how we scold them, they come to our aid - bow-legged basins! Do not be afraid and do not even think and do not listen to anyone, who would not say anything negative about this. Time-tested. The Taz pump produces from 4.5 atmospheres, 2 / 3x is enough for us, the volume of fuel is also, oddly enough, more than enough, the excess immediately returns to the tank. For a 3-liter 6-cylinder engine, it is enough with a margin, which has been verified personally by me and many others. 72 km along the serpentine with a sneaker to the floor and flew before the cut-off in just over an hour. Tested in all modes, including the critical area.
so I'll make a reservation right away - the price of installing a new pump on our own is only 1000 rubles

First, let's go to a car shop or car market, buy the following:
1. The fuel pump from any injection VAZ, factory - I disdained to take, and BOSCH is a fake (.) DO NOT TAKE in the markets and in shops BOSH pumps are 100% fake, I got one like this, you cannot tell the original, they sell it as openly saying that a fake is 700-900 rubles, and they give it out as an original asking for 1800-2000, how quickly will it die? - hell knows. I personally chose VEBER of European production Poland-Czech Republic, and there quality control is present. And the price of 800 rubles is very appropriate. Primary treatment filter included
2. A chip on the pump + two wiring with female connectors, because I immediately removed the relatives, they are thin in cross section in my opinion. - 100 rubles
3. Gas-resistant high pressure hose - 60 rubles
4. Clamps - 30 rubles

You need to arm yourself with the following items:
1. Soldering iron with all accessories
2. Heat shrink
3. Industrial hair dryer or lighter (only carefully.)
4. Universal screwdriver
5. Key for 8 or pliers.
6. Knife.

factory-fitted pump:

We take a screwdriver and unscrew the pump cage (rim) from the side ears, remove the plastic latches with pliers, unscrew the hose from the pump and unscrew the "+" and "-" pump power, as well as everything that prevents us from removing the pump from its housing.

Then we remove the stub of the hoses from the former pump to the hat

Next, we take a chip for a new pump and, as I already wrote above, carefully pull out the wires, while inserting an awl or a small flat screwdriver in front to press down the tongue in the mother, and in place of this we insert the mothers purchased in advance with wires of a thicker section, the chip is ready , cut off the heat shrinkage (if any), put chips on the wires, hold the soldering iron in your hands and forward. We connect and solder the chip to the terminals of the former pump, and after checking it again and attaching the chip to the new pump, you have not confused "+" and "-".

After soldering, we stretch out the heat shrinkage, which we put on the chips in advance and fry it with a hairdryer or a lighter (at a distance) until it squeezes our place of soldering.

Then we try on the approximate location of our new pump, so that it is located close to the bottom and do not forget about 1 cm, which will be taken over by the primary treatment filter, which is attached to the pump (included in the kit),
Having tried on, we will take a gas-resistant hose, we will try it on from the new location of the pump to the hat of the pumping unit, taking into account that also on the plugs (put on the tubes), we take the clamp, put it on and fasten it to the hat

Next, we put the other end of the hoses on the pump and, also, fix the chip in the pump

We take a knife in our hands and ..., no, we don’t go to the store for some booze, and we cut the remaining hose that is not needed in reserve, but only in one side we can press it, make a cutout of 10 centimeters, then cut off two pieces 5 cm long each, it will be we have linings so that the pump works silently and does not hum with its body on metal. We put substrates on both sides of the pump, one lining will be between the bracket of the pumping unit and the pump, and the other on the opposite side of the pump.

We put on the primary treatment filter on the pump and fix it with a corkscrew ring, applying the ring to the pump, ajar pliers on top and with a light hammer knock drive the retaining ring onto the pins.

And here is a pleasant and neat end result, now the fuel pump complex will be easier to install in the tank and remove, because a significant part that tightly passed through the mounting hole has been removed.

p.s. I will post pictures of installing and removing the pump from the tank a little later.
p.s.s. I RECOMMEND taking advantage of the moment that you opened the same tank - suck all the fuel from the tank with an old pump, clean it of debris, wash and dry it, and then your pump will last a long time and do not forget to change the fuel filter more often, it costs a penny around 150 rubles SAKURA Japanese not the original and you will be happy!

by biker
any selfish publication of site materials is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN.
when using materials from the site - a link to our site and the author is STRICTLY MANDATORY.

my mobile: +7 962 888 3 808 (Beeline Sochi) Serega

Filter fuel cleaning is an important part of any car. Therefore, replacing this filter is considered an integral part of any routine maintenance for all vehicles. Most cars of the brand Nissan this filter element is not serviceable. The manufacturer recommends changing fuel filter element (mesh) located in the tank, together with the fuel pump after 150 thousand kilometers. However, "craftsmen" still manage to change filter fuel. It is recommended to change or clean this filter the fuel system every 150 - 170 thousand kilometers.

Note that a car with a clogged fuel filter is almost impossible to start. Experts believe that most car malfunctions, including cars of the brand Nissan, can be avoided by timely replacement of consumable items: filters, engine and transmission oils, as well as rubber goods.

In our article we will analyze how replace the fuel filter (mesh) on your own.

To be on your own change this filter element we need to prepare the following tools and materials:

- a set of wrenches and screwdrivers;

- a container with a volume of up to 400 ml (required to collect fuel that remains in the hoses of the car's power system Nissan);

- fire extinguisher (change the filter element is easy, the main thing is to observe safety precautions and have fire extinguishing means with you);

- cleaning agent (acetone or liquid for cleaning the injector);

- rags (to change fuel filter element, you will need a lot of rags).

Self-replacement of the fuel filter element.

In most models Nissan The fuel filter element is located in the gas tank. A special feature is that the filter is installed in the fuel pump. Therefore, to change this filter element, we will have to disassemble the gas pump.

How We will describe this in the following paragraphs:

- remove the back seat cushion of the car Nissan;

- we release the fuel pressure in the power supply system. We find the fuse box under the torpedo. On the cover of the block there is a diagram indicating the fuse, which is responsible for the operation of the fuel pump. We take out the fuse we need and try to start the car;

- waiting for your car Nissan will stall;

- we start the car several more times (we do it with an interval of 60 seconds);

- remove the filler cap of the gas tank to relieve excess pressure inside the tank itself;

- using a wrench, unscrew the bolts (three black plastic bolts) on the inspection hole cover of the car's gas tank Nissan;

- lifting the lid, you will see a white container in which the fuel pump is located and filter;

- we remove fuel return hose (gently press on the corresponding plastic latch);

- we take the prepared container and lower the hose into it (300-400 ml of fuel should flow out of the system);

- we remove in the same way fuel supply hose (fuel should not be there);

-Now we disconnect the fuel level float and the wiring harness;

- we get our fuel pump and, accordingly, filter;

- carefully disconnect the internal fuel hose;

-remove the casing of the fuel pump;

- now we can see filter fuel (mesh).

Then you can go in several ways:

- clear fuel pump from accumulated dirt;

– change filter mesh;

– change a gas pump for a new one (as the manufacturer recommends to do).

The assembly of the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. How you understand, there is no point in describing this process. Most importantly, do not forget to replace the fuel pump fuse. Sometimes motorists forget to do this, and then for a long time they try to find the reason that their car Nissan does not start.

Tips for replacing the filter element

All work with the fuel system of a car of this brand (however, how and with a machine of another manufacturer) must be carried out on a cold engine. The car must cool down within three hours after the last ride.

Before starting work, it is imperative to relieve pressure in the fuel system of your vehicle. Nissan.

Observe fire safety regulations. Do not smoke when changing filter... Remove residual gasoline and thoroughly ventilate the area after finishing work.