Photo unfortunately did not. I'll take a picture as I collect it.
The procedure is actually not that difficult, but requires patience.
Remove the expansion tank (pull up), disconnect the tube. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness from the mounting to the body. Remove the expansion tank.
Now you need to remove the alternator / air conditioner belt. To do this, loosen the nut on the tension roller, then turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to loosen the belt (the bolt is located between the generator and the compressor. You need a key for 8). Having completely unscrewed the tensioner nut, you can remove it and change the bearing there if necessary.
Next, we throw off the belt (here you can check the condition of the compressor bearing by turning the pulley by hand).
Disconnect, if not already disconnected, the negative battery terminal.
We disconnect the excitation winding terminal, unscrew the power plus from the generator, the black wire - the ground (a small short key is desirable here - the bolt is inconveniently located).
We remove the wiring harness from the mount, remove it so as not to interfere.
The generator is mounted on three bolts, two in front and one behind at the bottom. The first two are unscrewed without problems, to unscrew the bottom one - you need to unscrew the plastic protection from below and work from under the car.
All now, having found the position in which it will pass, we pull it out towards the washer reservoir.
We unscrew the four studs on the sides, unscrew all the screws on the back of the generator and the nut on the plus. Gently tighten the back cover with a light hammer - it will first jump off the stator winding, then, with a little more effort, the rear bearing is removed from the housing and remains on the rotor. (do not lose the plastic washer on the positive terminal.)
Now you can pick off the stator from the front cover and carefully remove it from engagement with the brushes. To remove the diode bridge, we solder it with a powerful soldering iron from the stator. It's only held on by wires.
Now the most difficult thing is to unscrew the pulley. Here you need a good vise and a 24 head and a pipe for extra effort.
We tighten the pulley through two pieces of wood into a vise (trimmings from old ski poles came up to me). We pull the vise with the pipe. I do not know how to describe the effort, but it is very large. Probably better by trial and error - if you don’t reach it, it will simply turn. The pulley is very strong and did not wrinkle at all. We are trying to unscrew the nut (also with a pipe). It didn’t work out - we tighten it up and try again. It is advisable to periodically spray VDshkoy on the pulley nut, knock with a hammer and dance with a tambourine.
We put the generator with the ears of the front cover on two bricks and knock the rotor down through the piece of wood (we catch it so as not to break it).
Now you can change the front bearing (it is behind the cover and can be easily removed from the housing if you do not warp).
I haven’t been able to knock the rear bearing off the shaft yet :(. Here you probably have to get a puller.
I don’t know how to assemble yet, but I think in reverse order))).
Yes, and do not repeat my mistakes - be careful with the diode bridge - when I hammered the studs into place into it, I broke one diode :(.
In order to tighten the alternator belt on a Nissan Note, you need to: raise the car on a jack, remove the wheel, unscrew and remove the fender liner (it is held on by 3 screws from the bottom and 3 clips).Now we find the tension roller and loosen the fastening nut. There is a bolt behind the tensioner roller (turnkey 13), and you need to tighten it to tension the belt.
There are 2 ways to get to the tensioner pulley bolt. It is necessary to remove the grille, which is held on by clips on top, 2 latches along the edges of the headlights, and a lot of latches along the bottom of the grille (they snap off by pressing down on the middle and pulling the grille towards you). Next, you still need to remove 2 pistons from the plastic frame at the headlight, now you can get to the bolt.
The second way is easier, but not more convenient. From the side of the removed fender liner, we put our hand behind the roller, grope and put the key on the bolt, and slowly turn it.
We check the adjustment by pressing a finger on the belt from below, the deflection of the old belt is 4.8-5.3 mm, the new one is 4.2-4.5 mm. If you can’t determine by eye, you can use the steelyard. After tensioning the belt, tighten the tensioner roller nut and assemble everything in the reverse order.
VIDEO
How to replace the alternator pulley on a Nissan is shown in the video and described in this manual:
Completely remove the generator from the car
We clean it from dirt
Now we need two keys. The first key is SP-Line M10 - it will be inserted into the internal spline (spline on the shaft). We insert a special key for generators into the outer slot. The key you need can be picked up at the auto shop. You can see what keys are needed in the video on replacing the alternator pulley on a Nissan with your own hands.
Turn the inner slot clockwise, the outer slot counterclockwise. The effort you need to make is very large, so the repair is not quick.
When repairing, it is strictly forbidden to use gas wrenches and a vice. They still will not help to remove the pulley, but they can damage it.
First of all, let's describe the problem itself: the charging lamp on the running engine caught fire! Before swallowing validol and convulsively estimating the cost of a new “gene” in our minds, we will get out of the car and coldly open the hood, making sure that the drive belt is in place and has not broken or weakened, all the wires are in place, we will open the trunk and, looking into its bowels, we will take out a mount, balloon key or whatever you have there and, looking under the hood again, lightly tap on the generator case with your metal object. We look at the instrument panel and, lo and behold, the charging went out! If so, then 90% can be argued that the generator brushes are to blame, which have hung due to complete wear. Now that the diagnosis is obvious, you can go to the garage and start repairing.
Let's remove the “armor” from the bottom of the car for more convenient access to the generator from below. In addition, I personally also removed the radiator, since in the Example this is a simple matter and does not take too much time, we drain the antifreeze through the lower radiator pipe, we don’t need to drain it from the engine block - just plug the pipes. Now there is much more space under the hood for removing the generator.
Now we turn off the wires and remove the alternator tensioner.
We put the removed unit on your desktop with the pulley down and remove the rear plastic cover with the logo of the famous "Magnetti - Marelli".
Under the cover we see the brush assembly itself, the end of the rotor is closed with a plastic cover on a vertical slide. Remove it carefully with a screwdriver.
Visually making sure that the suspicions about the brushes were not unfounded, we turn away everything superfluous.
Remove the brush assembly from the generator. Gently prying the covers of the guides (also installed in the slide) remove them.
and we are convinced once again that the brushes are dead. Then we have two options: Option one - we buy a new brush assembly and assemble everything in the reverse order. But if there is no replacement at hand and there is nowhere to buy it in our village (just my case) and go, as they say, “NADA”. we choose the second option and, remembering the precepts of Dr. Frankenstein, we reanimate the deceased.
To do this, we go to the nearest general store and buy a brush assembly for the VAZ generator. And we decisively cut off new brushes along with copper “pigtails” - current conductors, you don’t need to be greedy when cutting, it’s better to remove the excess later.
We take out the remnants of “native” brushes from the old assembly and repeat the circumcision ritual already with them, as a result, we will have new brushes with “pigtails” in our hands and the same remnants of conductors from the old ones with terminals at the ends. With the help of a soldering iron and our own eloquence, we bring them together, not forgetting to adjust the desired length of the “pigtails” and the brushes themselves in place (if necessary, we adjust with an emery cloth or bar to the size of the guides, carefully - the graphite is soft).
We clean the inside of the generator from graphite dust. We carefully press the new brushes in with a sharp (not metal - so as not to crumble) object, and set the assembly in place. Further assembly is carried out in the sequence already known to us. We return the “gene” to its place and enjoy life.
Today I changed the belt, unfortunately I did not take a photo, sorry, but I can explain in pictures! Smile The way they showed in the service, I didn't figure out how to crawl up, so I decided to just remove the bumper. Smile Filmed by [. ]
Withdrawal. 1. Drain the coolant. Do not open the cap on a hot engine. 2. Remove the air duct (inlet). 3. Remove the tank as follows. – Disconnect hoses from a tank. – disengage latch (A) in the direction indicated by the black [. ]
Good day … I wanted to share one trouble that happened to my Tiida … Having traveled the winter without breakdowns and complaints, the following happened: As I understand it, Tiida has a main radiator and an air conditioner radiator located close to each other. [. ]
And since it is already clear from the name, yes, I didn’t just buzz, but the right hub in front howled with an infernal howl. Naturally, it all started harmlessly with a slight buzz for 50-60 km, and after with [. ]
There is nothing complicated at all - even easier than changing the timing belt on an 8kl vase. The key is 13 + the head is 13. The bolt that holds the tension roller itself is loosened (maybe this is not necessary), after which it is loosened [. ]
Good evening. I replaced the upper and lower engine mounts. Took the original. The replacement took a total of 10 minutes. In general, nothing complicated. It felt much more pleasant, the “trembling” of the gas pedal and steering wheel on [. ]
STARGEN+ offers you diagnostics and repair of the generator Nissan Tiida in an hour! You can remove / install the unit in our car service.
Our masters make free diagnostics of all parts on special equipment, so even hidden defects that are not visible during manual and visual diagnostics are revealed. Next, the unit is disassembled and the cause of the malfunction is determined. We inform you about the parts that need to be replaced during the repair of the generator Nissan Tiida as well as the cost of repairs. After, if it is expedient to repair the generator, we carry out further work.
Diagnostics of the repaired unit is carried out on a stand that simulates the operation of a car in full load mode.
We repair alternators for cars, trucks and special equipment.
We always have spare parts and components for the repair of generators Nissan Tiida . If repairs are not feasible, we will offer you a new or refurbished generator. Perhaps a ready-made generator with a guarantee of 6 months. for Nissan Tiida available.
You can contact our specialists right now by phone:
or drive up to the address: Balashikha, Sovetskaya 42
the nearest metro from us: Shchelkovskaya, Pervomayskaya, Perovo, Novogireevo, Novokosino. nearest service areas: North-East Administrative Okrug, Entuziastov Highway, Gorkovskoye Highway, Schelkovskoye Highway, Nosovikhinskoye Highway, Zheleznodorozhny, Reutov, Schelkovo, Nikolsko-Arkhangelsky, Saltykovka, Kuchino, Staraya Kupavna, Losino-Petrovsky, Elektrougli, Noginsk. We also deliver starters and generators with our own transport in Moscow and Moscow Region.
Raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 1 543 Registration: 6.2.2011 From: Taganrog
Raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 4 605 Registration: 18.5.2011 From: near Krasnodar
Raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 1 543 Registration: 6.2.2011 From: Taganrog
Raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 4 605 Registration: 18.5.2011 From: near Krasnodar
Nose raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 698 Registration: 11/18/2011
Post has been edited gavrilov3 – 19.7.2017, 20:16
Raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 1 543 Registration: 6.2.2011 From: Taganrog
Nose raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 698 Registration: 11/18/2011
Post has been edited gavrilov3 – 19.7.2017, 20:16
barbados raccoon
Group: Users Posts: 309 Registration: 10.8.2009 From: Chelyabinsk
Replaced brushes today. 1. It is not necessary to jack up the engine (CR14DE), unscrew the lower bolt and pull it out to the stop, then swing the generator to remove it from the mount. 2. I put brushes from VAZ, I also put them in the stove motor (although when I bought it in the store they said that it was from a Muscovite). They were the thinnest and longest of all. Sharpened one side a little. 3. Before soldering the brushes, clean off the tin with a knife, and heat the outer sides of the legs with a soldering iron. 4. After soldering new brushes, do not rush to assemble the block, you must first fix it on the shaft.
In general, nothing complicated, the savings are really decent.
white-nosed coati
Group: Users Posts: 9 Registration: 10.5.2011
Changed brushes the other day. Mileage 180,000 km. 1. I confirm the words of ekrushin: You do not need to jack the engine (CR14DE)! Unscrew the bolt to the stop (no need to remove the bolt), then swing the generator to remove it from the mount - there is a special groove for this bolt at the place where the generator is attached to the engine. 2. The actual brushes are installed in a housing with some kind of board. Most likely this is a voltage regulator, you can’t know for sure - the board is soldered in a plastic case. On the case the following marking: 2603389 04096 F36673C1210N. See photos below. These numbers do not give any match on the internet. Only one coincidence: by code 04096 I found a Chinese part in Exist that is called the Generator Regulator. I'm not sure if this is exactly what you need, but if anyone needs it, you can try to order it. The price is about 400 rubles - in comparison with the original spare part Nissan 23215-AX610 Voltage regulator for 8000 rubles. 3. I bought brushes from VAZ-2101. Issue price 25 rubles. and sharpen a bit.
In general, I want to summarize: With a run of about 200 thousand, a simple replacement of the brushes will help to avoid an expensive replacement of the generator, but this will not last long - the collector of my generator was quite worn out (about 2 mm), and it is not known how long it will last.
To the topic “Nissan generator repair” read also:
Reasons for removing and disassembling the generator :
Strong noise effect when the generator is running. The bearings have worn out and are noisy.
The need to replace the overrunning clutch of the generator.
To carry out the work you will need:
Ratchet and set of heads.
A set of spanners (in some places they are more convenient)
Jack and balloon
Desirable: WD 40
And so, by yourself or according to instructions ( How to remove alternator from Nissan Teana ) you got a generator from the engine compartment.
Now we will disassemble it.
We turn out the through (side) bolts. They hold 2 halves. (Photo 1)
We unscrew and remove the nuts from the back cover (photo 2)
All back cover removed. There you can score (if you wish) a new bearing. Since it costs a penny, I did it. The old one was cut with a grinder. Now I think I need to buy some kind of puller, as it often comes in handy.
Scored with a suitable head size.
At this stage, you have already disassembled the entire generator. But if you've done all this in order to get to the freewheel of the generator, read on. Actually, we did all this, but in order to fix the rotor when removing the clutch.
Evaluation of a car owner named Artyom: Price-quality ...
Category: Car device
Título original: Zamijeniti alternator pojas Nissan Tiida
Description: Dimensions are as follows, length - 3222, width - 1100, height - 1460 mm. The wheelbase is 2743 mm. Ground clearance 173 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid powertrain. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. There are 4 valves per cylinder. Diameter of one the cylinder is 70 mm, the piston stroke is 75 mm. The crankshaft of the engine accelerates to 1000 rpm.The maximum torque is maintained up to 3000 rpm.
Below you can see the technical properties of replacing the Nissan Tiida alternator belt. Express your opinion about the car in the comments.
Release date: 13. 09. 2014
Laughter in the topic: In the zoo, all animals behave decently, except for monkeys. It is felt that these are already without five minutes people.
The Nissan Tiida gasoline generator is a repairable unit. In case of any breakdown, it is more expedient to repair it at a service station with a guarantee than to purchase a contract or a new expensive unit.
The main breakdowns of Nissan Tiida electrical equipment are:
winding breakdown;
failure of the relay-regulator;
failure of the diode bridge;
wear of collector brushes;
breakdown and runout of the rotor;
natural wear of bearings.
Some of the symptoms that the car owner associates with a faulty alternator are evidence of other problems. For example, with poor contact or problems with the contact group of the ignition switch. A flashing battery icon does not always indicate that the generator itself is faulty - it may be a failed relay.
Restoration of electrical equipment at a specialized service station involves the following procedures:
initial inspection and visual diagnostics of the generator;
dismantling;
diagnostics on the loading stand;
disassembly of the generator and replacement of failed parts;
assembly;
re-diagnosis;
car installation.
Turning to the DDCAR car service for the repair of a Nissan Tiida generator, you can be sure that you will receive high-quality services, original spare parts and prompt repairs. The equipment of our service station allows us to identify any malfunctions of the generator and eliminate them. The prices for our services can be called the most affordable in Moscow. To make an appointment for repairs, call 8 (495) 120-75-03 or use the feedback form. We provide all our clients with a 6 month warranty.
STARGEN+ offers you diagnostics and repair of the generator Nissan Tiida in an hour! You can remove / install the unit in our car service.
Our masters make free diagnostics of all parts on special equipment, so even hidden defects that are not visible during manual and visual diagnostics are revealed. Next, the unit is disassembled and the cause of the malfunction is determined. We inform you about the parts that need to be replaced during the repair of the generator Nissan Tiida as well as the cost of repairs. After, if it is expedient to repair the generator, we carry out further work.
Diagnostics of the repaired unit is carried out on a stand that simulates the operation of a car in full load mode.
We repair alternators for cars, trucks and special equipment.
We always have spare parts and components for the repair of generators Nissan Tiida . If repairs are not feasible, we will offer you a new or refurbished generator. Perhaps a ready-made generator with a guarantee of 6 months. for Nissan Tiida available.
You can contact our specialists right now by phone:
or drive up to the address: Balashikha, Sovetskaya 42
the nearest metro from us: Shchelkovskaya, Pervomayskaya, Perovo, Novogireevo, Novokosino. nearest service areas: North-East Administrative Okrug, Entuziastov Highway, Gorkovskoye Highway, Schelkovskoye Highway, Nosovikhinskoye Highway, Zheleznodorozhny, Reutov, Schelkovo, Nikolsko-Arkhangelsky, Saltykovka, Kuchino, Staraya Kupavna, Losino-Petrovsky, Elektrougli, Noginsk. We also deliver starters and generators with our own transport in Moscow and Moscow Region.
0:210, tired of the terrible squeak in the morning while the car is warming up.
Headings, batteries, how pull up belt generator on Nissan tiida.
Flash 39 Experienced 05′.5AT 4WD Japan With us since: Messages: 544 Posted on: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:40 pm Post subject: Re: Substitution alternator belt Anton-24kk wrote: Got it now, Pitwork came, written by Made in Indonesia.
The answer to the request at the request in the subject of replacing the alternator belt Nissan Tiida run across, we are waiting for you.
I took off the bumper - I think it’s not worth explaining how to shoot, it was described somewhere in the forum ;.
Nissan Tiida received a package of adaptations for the Russian market.
I have after installation belt stretched a little, squeals a little, it is necessary pull up , but there is no lift, when you think about taking off the bumper again, it somehow becomes reluctant to go!
VIDEO
At low temperatures and dampness, extraneous sounds appear. Generator stator / rotor and Izh planet 5. Izh how to check the anchor. How to change the timing belt on a volvo s60 with your own. Izh planet 5 with magneto how to check the anchor installation of the generator on Izh planet3. Rollers belt new, not unique. How to check the anchor moto speed test viper r1 java 638. Wiring the generator izh planet 5. How to replace the belt with your own hands? Timing belt change for Daewoo Nexia 16 valve. How to independently replace the alternator belt on the Peugeot 308 and other models? Suspicious
VIDEO
We pull up generator belt .
Belt weakened, put a new one through the bottom and twisted it back.
I decided to replace the roller tensioner bearings, there were 2 of them, not 1, as they say on other forums.
When trying to unscrew the pressure roller nut, all its faces were captivated (I don’t know why they twist it like that.).
Two fasteners have to be unscrewed: the nut for fastening the tensioner roller (not automatic and the tension bolt, to which, in fact, a tricky reversible ratchet sprocket is needed.
Then they came for the Catholics and I didn't say anything because I was a Protestant.
Scr Newbie 06′.5CVT Japan With us since: Messages: 20 From: Rostov Added: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:26 am Post subject: Here is such a belt I have /img _ Blue blood, variator, 06 issue _Griha_ Beginner 05′ Nissan Note Follow us since: Posts: 15 Added.
Mobilis 49 MAIN GAZIROVKA.4MT Luxury With us from: Messages: 2600 Location: Rostov-Papa Added: Sat May 08, 2010 9:10 pm Post subject: Re: Replacement alternator belt Anton-24kk wrote: Today I changed belt Added to the FAQ.
The difference in speed between 100 and 180 km / h is felt only by the cars flickering in the right lane, and (Oh horror!) by the maliciously contented faces of traffic cops, periodically waving striped sticks.
To replace the tensioner belt, the following parts were purchased:
2 bearings Koyo 63012RSCM = 600 rubles.
Tired of a terrible squeak in the morning while the car is warming up. I decided to replace the roller tensioner bearings, there were 2 of them, not 1, as they say on other forums. Carried out the correct belt tension (found in the manual). Now when you start the car - silence!
You need two of these bearings.
a bushing is pressed into the bearing hole, pressed out with a head
then pressed out the bearing
these are the bearings there, the grease has leaked out, there are noticeable jamming by ear after scrolling
found this in the service manual Adjust the tension of the accessory drive belt. To do this, press your finger on the belt branch between the pulleys of the crankshaft and the air conditioning compressor. When pressed with a force of 98N (10 kg), the deflection H of the old belt should be 4.8-5.3 mm, the new belt 4.2-4.5 mm.
And measure the distance (as indicated in the text). The belt was tensioned with a plate connected to the steelyard through a bent electrode (for convenience)
Not all novice drivers know how to change the oil in the internal combustion engine themselves. Therefore, this article is for dummies. After the purchase
Show Control Panel
Recently I tried to change the belt, I could not unscrew the tensioner washer, I began to turn the bolt, it was tight, then it burst. I had to order for existentialism. I waited 4 days, went to the service, they also couldn’t twist the washer, I had to remove the generator and disconnect the wide kondeya tube (later they inserted it back and filled it with freon). Total rose to 5 thousand. Therefore, my advice to you is to tear the puck off the roller SOOOOO carefully and with a 13 hex wrench, we tear it AWAY. towards the cabin, it is desirable that there was a large lever.
It's not clear in the video what key you used to get to the locknut.
extra hemorrhoids. The generator does not need to be turned! loosen the roller and pull everything out.
Can you tell me how hard to tighten the tensioner?
is the tension screw 10 or also 13, like the roller nut?
if possible, also show the process of belt tensioning itself
Unfortunately, I won't show you. sold the machine. I didn't want to, but I had to. real estate is more important
Hey How does the bolt tension the roller when tightening if, when tightening, the axis of the roller (the nut for the adjusting bolt) moves towards the bolt head (to the bumper) and vice versa weakens the belt? I will be very grateful for a quick reply
By the way, the video really can not be changed! We remove the roller, carefully remove the anthers of the bearings, rinse, lay Litol 24 and ride happily ever after.
For those who do this operation for the first time, the sequence is incomprehensible. And so I will explain: 1. loosen the nut of the roller itself from the end.2. And only then! weaken the tensioner bolt (under the generator) otherwise people break the edges of the tensioner bolt.
Video (click to play).
Today I broke the bolt, now I don’t know where to find it ((( But in general, why does the tensioner bolt need to be screwed counterclockwise, logically it needs to be clockwise