In detail: niva chevrolet do-it-yourself repair starter does not work from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.
On Chevrolet Niva SUVs manufactured before 2006, the electrical circuit for switching on the starter was very simple. It included a rechargeable battery, a generator terminal B +, an ignition switch and a starter. The only drawback of this scheme was that if the driver, while the engine was running, accidentally turned the ignition key to the "starter" position, then it worked, and its drive gear tried to mesh with the rotating gear rim of the flywheel, which led to cutting off the tips of the teeth on both gears ... Therefore, since 2006, an additional relay (type 2123-3722-010-22) was installed at the bottom of the mounting block, which blocked (disconnected) the starter when the engine was running.
When, when trying to start the engine, the starter does not work, the driver, in order to determine the location of the malfunction, will need a piece of wire that can be used to connect the positive terminal of the battery to the plug in the connector of the red wire going to terminal 50 of the solenoid relay. You need to look for this connector on the right mudguard. You just need to remember that the cross-section of the wire should not be very small (less than two square millimeters).
If the starter starts working, it means that it is working properly. In this case, you will have to check the contact part of the ignition switch (terminals 30 and 50), and on cars with the year 2006 and later, also the electrical circuit of the additional relay, which is triggered by the command of the ECM controller (BOSH M7.9.7). In addition, on those Chevrolet Niva vehicles where the alarm is installed, it may be necessary to check the ignition lock interlock circuit.
Video (click to play).
But if the starter does not start working, then you have to look for a malfunction in it. When, when voltage is applied to terminal 50 of the traction relay, you hear a click, it means that its retracting and holding windings are working. If, after clicking, the starter armature does not begin to rotate, then you will have to sequentially check the condition of the battery terminals and the solenoid relay, as well as the collector brushes. Particular attention must be paid to the lower contact of the solenoid relay, since due to loosening of the nut, the contact burns out. To eliminate this malfunction, you will have to unscrew the nut, clean the contact and put everything back in place. But this must be done with the negative terminal of the battery removed.
In order to find a malfunction on the starter, it will have to be removed, but this must be done from the bottom of the car. If there are heat shields that protect the starter from overheating (there is an exhaust pipe next to it), in no case should they be removed, as this will damage the starter.
The condition of the roads and external conditions in our country are such that many people need a car with an all-terrain vehicle. An excellent option that combines a low price and good quality is the Chevrolet Niva. When operating this machine, special attention must be paid to the starter, the rules for its use and repair.
Starter; it is a mechanism that works and moves due to the interaction of magnets. The rated power of this device on the Chevrolet Niva is 1.55 kW. The current strength in it will be:
with the development of the boundary power 375A;
when braking up to 700A;
idling less than 80A.
The starter consists of 28 different parts, including mounts, housing and internal components. The rotation of the armature shaft due to the sintered liners leads to the movement of the drive shaft.This is also facilitated by a gearbox consisting of various gears. They, in turn, are driven by needle bearings. Thanks to the connected battery, the voltage is transmitted directly to the starter, and it starts to move.
Like any mechanism in a car, the starter works very often, which leads to its periodic breakdowns. In order to deal with this, it is necessary to clearly identify the cause, and then eliminate it. Only in this case it is possible to return this system to stable operation at minimal cost. For example, if the starter does not turn, then most likely the reason is the battery. You need to charge it or buy a new one. It may also happen that the battery is in order. Then the reason may be for the oxidation of the wires. In general, on the Chevrolet Niva, problems and difficulties can arise, the solution to which is completely different.
Some problems with the starter can be identified solely by analyzing it when starting the engine.
For example, if after several switching on the traction relay turns off. Such a problem may be caused by an unusable battery (low voltage) or oxidation by the wire. There are times when it is impossible to find out the reason without removing the starter and conducting research on a special stand. Based on the results of such work, a decision is made whether to replace the clutch, gears or something else.
In most cases, on a Chevrolet Niva, problems can be identified as follows. It is necessary to take a current source and an ammeter and connect to the mechanism. After that, turn on the voltage at the level of 12V, periodically changing the braking. Based on the results of the behavior of the device, it will be possible to conclude: disassemble it and inspect each part separately or replace it completely.
Perform full braking tests to effectively determine the cause of the problem and repair (replace) it. It is better to entrust all these works to professionals who can do exactly what is needed. If you have the necessary equipment, then you can carry out the repairs yourself.
When there are any problems with the starter, its removal is considered a mandatory procedure. Moreover, on the Chevrolet Niva, for some other repair work, the removal of this part is necessary, because it will interfere. Using the usual tools that every car enthusiast has, you can dismantle it yourself. The starter is removed in the following sequence:
We disconnect the terminals from the battery to de-energize the car and protect ourselves.
We take the elongated socket head and remove the starter gearbox. To do this, you need to unscrew several bolts with which it connects to the gearbox clutch housing.
We remove the spacer of the exhaust pipe. To do this, you need to remove the fastener at the bottom of the rear strut and move it further.
Dismantle the starter directly. When doing this, be careful not to touch or entangle the wires.
The block together with the supply wire must be separated from the traction relay terminal.
We move aside the rubber cover, remove the nuts, the bolt wire on the traction relay.
After all these steps, you can carry out the necessary repair work. Removing the starter is easy to do, but it only requires careful and careful action. To put the starter in place, you must do everything in the reverse order.
Most starter problems on a Chevrolet Niva vehicle arise from improper use. There are certain rules that you can follow to help prevent problems from occurring.
When you start the engine, the starter should run no more than 15 seconds the first time, and no more than 30 seconds when you turn it on again.
Otherwise, the operation of the starter for a long time may lead to overheating. It is necessary to make no more than 3 attempts to start the engine. If it still doesn't work, then there are other problems.For example, there may be problems with the ignition or with the engine power system.
After you start the engine, the starter must be disconnected immediately. This is explained by the fact that with prolonged operation of the drive gear with the flywheel, the overrunning starter clutch can simply jam.
It is imperative that the starter is used only for its intended purpose. Never try to move your car with it. Working in this mode will lead to its significant overload and breakdown in the future.
VIDEO
Every car owner will be familiar with such a situation when the morning started late and you start rushing to work, on business. But it happens that after a night of inactivity, the car simply refuses to start, or starts after numerous attempts.
VIDEO
And such problems are not the norm and require thorough diagnostics and checks. Since there may be plenty of causes of malfunctions, you should carefully read the main ones and check them in practice.
First of all, in order to troubleshoot problems, you need to know their source. The first assistants in such diagnostics will be a visual inspection of the motor for malfunctions, as well as all kinds of sensors that signal a breakdown.
So, let us consider the main reasons why the engine may not start on "cold" below.
This primarily applies to battery , it can be discharged or completely out of order. If you are in doubt about its reliability, you should take it to a specialized workshop, where it will be fully checked.
Bad contacts on the battery terminals ... This problem is easy to detect and fix with your own hands, it is best to clean them with sandpaper, and grease with a special conductive grease.
There are malfunctions in the starter, they can be due to malfunctions both inside the device and due to failure of wiring ... For verification, you also need to show it to specialists.
Defect in the work of candles , which could arise due to low-quality fuel, or their long-term operation.
Blown fuse that are responsible for a particular chain.
Failure of the relay This primarily applies to the ignition relay.
Burnout or broken wire that come from the battery, starter or injector.
Alarm or immobilizer problems. It is these circuits that become a common cause of ignition malfunctions.
Probably the most commonplace reason why the engine cannot start is the lack of the proper level of fuel in the tank. This reason may be due to the driver's negligence, which is unlikely, and due to a malfunction of the fuel level sensor, which could "sour" at a certain level, indicating a sufficient amount of gasoline in the tank.
There is a blockage in the fuel pump or in the fuel filter.
The filter mesh is not heavily soiled. It could be worse!
These injectors had a punctured gasket. They let the air through and did not let the engine start the first time.
The idle speed control is secured with three bolts.
Now, knowing about the possible causes of the malfunction, we will analyze how to specifically diagnose it and identify the malfunction.
If the car does not react in any way to the turn of the key, you need to sequentially check the devices in the following order.
If, when turning the key, the icons on the dashboard are dimly lit or do not light at all, you should replace the battery with a charged one that is known to be in good working order, or ask your neighbor to "light" the battery.
If she has not sat down to the end, then the last manipulation will give a result and the car will start.
You can say that the starter is not working properly only when you know that the battery is completely working.
If, when turning the key, it will make specific sounds when scrolling ( will click ), then the bendix or the retractor may be faulty.
To find out the exact reason, you can only disassemble the device.Often, such problems occur precisely in the winter season, when the temperature is far below zero, and this is due to high humidity.
An inoperative starter should be dismantled and repaired.
It is not difficult to diagnose candles, you just need to unscrew them from the planting wells and visually inspect them.
They should not be soggy, carbon deposits should be adequate. It is best to compare their condition with our comparative table, which clearly indicates what the candles say about a particular malfunction. Please note that it is better to replace all four candles at once, leaving only serviceable old ones for replacement.
This is a comparative table of spark plug carbon deposits.
Fuses are also diagnosed by visual inspection, since an inoperative fuse, or rather its working part, will most likely be completely melted. If you doubt this, you can call each of them individually. Having identified the broken circuit, it is necessary to find the cause of its occurrence, because the short circuit can occur again.
It can be easily found at the left foot on the driver's side.
The ignition relay is best checked by installing a known working device in its place , since visually only traces of corrosion on the terminals can be detected, which cannot mean its malfunction.
You can detect the presence or absence of contact on one of the circuits visually or check it with a tester.
Most often, problems with security devices arise due to the short circuit of one of the wires to the car body. You can solve it by examining the block and wrapping the melted wire with electrical tape ... If the cause is not found, and the malfunctions are somehow related to them, then it is best to contact specialized workshops for repairs.
This is approximately what the immobilizer unit looks like under the torpedo.
In order to find out if the fuel pump is working properly, there is no need to climb somewhere. You just need to listen a little while turning the key in the ignition lock. Because when the fuel pump is operating, a specific buzz is emitted, and if the fuel line is clogged, it will be strengthened several times, which will indicate insufficient cross-country ability in the chain.
First of all, you need to check the terminals of the fuel pump and the power supply to them. In the photo, the terminals were worn out, which caused the contact to close and the fuel pump melted.
If there are any malfunctions in the system of direct fuel supply to the engine, that is, through the injectors, a special "CHECK" lamp should light up on the instrument panel, indicating a malfunction. It will be easy to read this malfunction using a scanner and a mobile phone, or a laptop using a "Bluetooth" connection.
Disconnect the injector power connector
It is also very easy to see the oil level visually using a dipstick, but finding the cause of a breakthrough is sometimes difficult, since there may be plenty of places in the engine. This also applies to the cooling system, since the number of pipes on the engine is also quite large. It is possible to detect a malfunction due to a characteristic stain on the asphalt, or smudges on one or another element.
Having decided exactly with the presence of this or that problem that interferes with starting the engine, you can know for sure whether you can do this with your own hands, or you will have to use the services of auto repair shops.
In most cases, you can do it yourself, since the replacement work is not complicated. An important aspect will be the fact where the work will be done, on the street or in the garage, because in the case of the latter, no natural phenomena will force you to finish the work for reasons beyond your control.
Often, owners of a VAZ 2121 or 2131 SUV face problems associated with starting the engine. For example, when the ignition key is turned, the starter does not turn. Consider the possible problems of the Niva 4x4 starter and how to solve them.
The starter relay is located under the additional fuse box next to the ignition relay. On Niva 21214, the starter relay is attached to the injection relay bracket.
1 - starter; 2 - storage battery (joint stock bank); 3 - generator; 4 - starter activation relay; 5 - ignition switch
Starter connection diagram: When the starter is turned on, the voltage from the battery through the auxiliary relay (No. 4 type 113.3747-10) is supplied to the windings of the starter retractor relay (retractor II and holding I). After the contacts of this relay are closed, the retractor winding is disconnected.
When the ignition is turned on, it does not start from the key, you do it straight on. Tell me, what could be the reason? Thanks in advance.
If the car is from 2009, then check the relay No. 5 in the passenger compartment, also check the contact group of the ignition switch, the cleanliness of the contacts on the starter.
Alarm there is no blocking relay. Here's another thing to understand. Have you watched a plus come on the starter solenoid relay? Thin wire on the starter.
If the icon is under number 9, then it is a signaling device for the emergency state of the service brake system. Check the brake fluid level, the brake fluid level sensor, its connector and wires. Also check the contacts of the instrument panel connector, the contacts of the battery terminals. Check if the brake lights and the interior light are still on (7.5A fuse).
Something there is a lot of correspondence, but what kind of motor it has not been written about. There is also no information on what year the car was produced. Before restyling there were some fuse box circuits, after - others.
The dashboard time and daily mileage are reset when the power is turned off. So look in this direction - why the voltage disappears. Start by checking the fuses, perhaps there the contact disappears from time to time (not reliable contact).
Thank you, we will look for and eliminate the cause.
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When heated to 90 or more, the starter is silent in the Chevrolet Niva
Let's figure out what a relay is, where to find it, what is its role and what to do when it fails.
A relay is a device that is constantly powered by an electric current from a battery. It consists of a toothed gear that engages with the flywheel ring when the relay starts to operate. As a result, the engine crankshaft rotates and the vehicle starts. During operation, the relay connects the flywheel and the bendix gears. The starter motor will be wasted if the relay does not extend the gear.
When the engine is started, during the ignition is triggered, power is supplied to all windings that are in the starter. These windings are of two types: retracting and holding. The starter is connected to the pull-in winding, and the entire casing control circuit starts operating thanks to the holding winding. When current flows to the terminals, a
magnetic induction, which creates a magnetic field. Thus, the armature presses on the return spring, and the bendix rotates. When the engine starts running, the power is cut off and the armature returns to its original position as it is returned by the spring. The contacts are disconnected.
If the starter relay works well, then the power is at around 8 V, and the temperature does not exceed 25 ° C. In the event that the power supply is above this mark, then you need to look for faults in the starter and its relay.
On the left side of the steering column, under the dashboard, our device is located.
Since this is an integral mechanism, it will not be possible to repair it. It breaks down for several reasons:
- the contacts are burnt out, out of the winding or worn out;
- parts inside this mechanism collapsed.
To understand that your relay is no longer working, you need to pay attention to the following:
- if there is a buzz under the hood
lives, the motor has started, but the engine does not stop rotating;
- if the starter works, but the engine does not start;
- if the starter clicks and does not start.
With such signs, the part needs to be changed, but in order to make sure that the breakdown is in the relay, you should first check it.
First, the device must be removed from the dashboard and short-circuit the contacts located on the rear wall. If you attach a piece of metal or wire, the circuit will close and the current will be sent to the starter. If the starter works, then the breakdown lies in the relay. And if the starter is triggered, and the relay starts, then there is a breakdown in the starter.
As you can see, the starter relay is easy to find if it is necessary to eliminate the malfunction.
There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation of our corporate lawyer by simply asking your question in the form below.
VIDEO
In Niva 21213 and 21214 cars, a mixed-type excitation starter is installed, with an electromagnetic-type traction relay and two independent windings. Four poles are fixed in the housing, one of which is connected in parallel, and the rest - in series. The casing with the cover is pulled together with a pair of bolts. Inside there is an anchor with a collector (the latter is of end type). The anchor rotates on sintered metal bushings pressed into the covers.
Despite the apparent structural complexity, starter repair is available even for beginners. The main thing is to have the necessary tools at hand, diagnose the malfunction in a timely manner and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Below we will consider what starter malfunctions exist, and how to fix the problems.
During operation, the following problems are possible: 1. After transferring the key in the ignition lock, the Niva car will not start, the starter will not turn. Causes of the problem:
The power supply of the machine is discharged.
The outputs on the battery or the terminals of the connected wires are oxidized.
Terminals are loose.
Turn-to-turn short circuit or damage to the traction relay winding.
The turning on starter relay is out of order or there is a break in the supply wire of the device.
Lack of closure between the "thirtieth" and "fiftieth" contact.
In the cases described above, the defective element is replaced or repaired, the contacts are cleaned.
2. When the key is switched in the ignition lock, the relay works, but the starter does not turn (hot or cold). Causes:
The battery is discharged or out of order.
Loosened fasteners of the cable ends connecting the motor with the body part.
Oxidized "plus" and (or) "minus" on the power supply, poor broach.
The collector is burnt out, the brushes are worn out.
The "plus" terminal of the brush holder was on the ground.
An open circuit occurs in the armature and (or) stator windings.
Depending on the malfunction, the defective part is replaced or repaired, the contacts are cleaned or the short circuit is eliminated.
3. As soon as voltage is applied to the starter, the relay is activated multiple times with subsequent disconnection. The engine does not turn (the problem manifests itself on hot or cold).
Short circuit or open circuit of the relay coil.
Battery discharge.
Reducing the voltage on the relay contacts (occurs when the wires are oxidized).
4. After energizing, the starter armature rotates, but the engine flywheel does not. Causes:
5. A strange sound appears when scrolling the anchor:
The starter fasteners are loose or the device is attached at an angle.
The integrity of the flywheel gears or drive gear is damaged.
Bearing bushings worn out.
The starter fasteners are loose.
6. The gear hangs in fixing with the flywheel:
Lever, traction relay, or spline clutch seized.
The ignition switch is broken (at the junction of the contacts).
The traction relay springs are loose or out of order.
VIDEO Regardless of whether the engine is turning or not, each of the above cases requires repair or replacement of damaged components ... How to do this work, we will consider below.
Algorithm of actions: Use a thirteen wrench to loosen the fastening of the conductor connected to the traction relay. Discard the tip.
To check the VAZ-2121 relay, apply a voltage of 12 Volts to the relay output, and apply "-" to the case. Connect the resistance meter to the terminals. If the relay is intact, then the armature extends the overrunning clutch, and the contacts are closed. If a part is found to be defective, replace it.
To remove the traction relay, use a slotted screwdriver to remove the three screws.
Pull the spring rod out of the device casing, and install the new traction relay according to the reverse algorithm.
If the problem persists, continue with the repair:
Take a Phillips screwdriver and twist off a couple of screws, then remove the cover.
To check the integrity of the brushes, twist the fixing screw of the contact conductor, and then use a screwdriver to squeeze the spring. Next, it remains to remove the brush.
In the same way, take out the other three brushes and inspect them. If at least one of the brushes is up to 1.2 centimeters high, then it must be replaced (further use of the part is not recommended).
Connect a multimeter to the starter windings (one at a time) and check for a short circuit. The task is to make sure that there is no short circuit between the turns and to the case.
Using a screwdriver, lift the locking ring, remove the washer from the shaft and use a ten wrench to twist a pair of tie bolts.
Separate the starter elements and remove the insulating tubes.
Inspect the appearance of the windings and the collector. Remove traces of the collector's burning with a sandpaper. If this part is badly worn out or charred, then the repair is useless - the device is changing. Remove seizures with a fine-grained emery cloth, and then polish the product.
Use a multimeter to check the armature for short circuit. Change the node if you find a problem.
Get the rubber seal out of the drive cover and remove the washer to adjust the armature.
Remove the link pin cotter pin and select the latter. Next, you need to remove the armature together with the drive.
Pry up the screwdriver drive arm and remove it.
Check the car's gear - it should scroll easily left and right. Also inspect for nicks and chips. If the gear is worn out or the clutch is out of order, then it is useless to make repairs - change the assembly.
Support the shaft against a piece of wood and knock out the stop ring.
Use a screwdriver to pry on the ring and remove it.
Remove the stop ring and freewheel with gear.
Collect the starter by the reverse algorithm.
Blow out the cover and the Niva brush holder with air. Lubricate the eyeliner ring with a lubricant (Litol is suitable). Treat the splines of the shaft and bushing with engine oil. Correct repair of the starter is a guarantee of a clear start of the engine, both hot and cold. The main thing - timely diagnose malfunction and correct it correctly.
VIDEO
Dismantling the starter on a Chevrolet Niva car is performed to replace the failed elements. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:
After removing the starter, unscrew the nut and disconnect the wires of the positive brushes from the contact bolt.
We unscrew the two screws and remove the traction relay from the starter. A gasket will be installed between the relay and the gear housing. Replace it if damaged.
Raising the loop of the traction relay armature slightly upward so that it disengages from the lever, remove the anchor.
Now we unscrew the two nuts of the tie rods holding the starter housing with the gearbox.
We take out the bolts and remove the starter cover from the drive end assembly with the gearbox.
Prying off with a flat screwdriver, remove the gearbox with a drive from the cover.
Remove the rubber seal from the starter gear drive lever. If it is damaged, replace it with a new one.
Next, we remove three planetary gears from the carrier axles. Wash them in kerosene and inspect them for mechanical damage or excessive wear, replace them with new ones if necessary.
Remove and disassemble the starter drive.
Now we need to remove the circlip from the internal gear.
Then remove the washer and support from the shaft.
Remove the internal gear from the shaft.
Next, remove the central gear from the armature shaft. Rinse it and inspect for mechanical damage and temporary wear, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
We take out two tie rods.
Further along the perimeter, we pry the armature shaft support with a small flat screwdriver.
We remove the armature shaft support and the washer, which will be installed right there on the armature shaft.
We take out the armature complete with the brush holder from the starter housing.
Bend back the brush spring holders using a small flat screwdriver.
This completes the repair work on disassembling the starter on the Chevrolet Niva car. Carry out the necessary repairs, then reassemble the starter in reverse order.
It may happen that the Chevrolet Niva does not start, or it does, but with periodic interruptions. This may be due to a failure, for example, of the electrical or fuel system. The most common breakdown is when the starter fails. But in order to correctly and fully carry out the diagnosis, it is required to remove the starter, the Chevrolet Niva is no exception.
This device is a direct current electric motor, which comes into activity from a permanent magnet, which is combined with a planetary gearbox, plus a two-winding electromagnetic relay. Therefore, before dismantling, you should understand whether it is the reason that the engine does not want to start. This can be determined both visually and by replacing the battery.
It is necessary to do a number of actions:
We check all the existing electrical connections that connect the starter and the battery, since it happens that a poor contact of mass and plus leads to poor operation of the device, and a click of the retractor relay is heard, thereby there is not enough power to turn the crankshaft in the engine. This problem is eliminated by stripping the contacts of the starter, battery, various groups of contacts.
We check the battery itself, it is necessary to replace the load plug itself with a proven one that is working. If there is no result, then it is necessary to remove the unit and replace it.
To make a replacement you need:
We disconnect the terminals from the battery, if this is not done, then a short circuit may occur, which will lead to a complete replacement of the wiring
Using a ratchet wrench, remove the crankcase protection
We tighten the three bolts that secure the starter
We dismantle thermal protection
Together with the wires, carefully pull out the unit, pulling it out, carefully pull the wires towards you and disconnect from the device.
The power wires that are connected can be cleaned, perhaps the reason for the unstable start of the engine lies in poor contact.
After it has been removed, you can make diagnostics and subsequent repairs.
When the starter is removed, you can try to repair it yourself or take it to a specialized service. If you have experience and an idea of how everything works and you, for example, are sure that the cause of the breakdown, for example, lies in the failure of the retractor relay, then you can start repairing yourself.But in any case, to be sure that this is the problem in it, it should be checked on a special stand where there is a load, since at idle it can work as needed, but not under load.
Another reason for poor ignition can be a malfunction of the planetary gear, which has plastic parts. You can understand what state they are in by unscrewing the unit and disassembling it in half, to do this, simply unscrew a couple of nuts in its back.
As the masters say, the Chevrolet Niva starter, unsuitable for repair, since spare parts for it are not sold, but time does not stand still and you can do everything yourself. After the repairs are made, everything is assembled and installed in place in the reverse order.
VIDEO
International Niva Club
Message Elvis »01 Apr 2013, 23:26
Message Pervak »01 Apr 2013, 23:45
Message Stranger21 »02 Apr 2013, 16:45
Looked and really not a leftist there is a gearbox on sale 214 2123 2173 starter 3 with a penny weighs. cool )
Shl - when I was sorting through the motor, I also broke a couple of studs by 6 tightening) now I pull such thin things a little bit) it is better to lubricate with a thread lock than to drag
Message Elvis »02 Apr 2013, 23:39
Message fruit-apple »Apr 12, 2013, 08:15 am
Message nivovod69reg »Apr 12, 2013, 08:26 am
Message fruit-apple »Apr 12, 2013, 08:43 am
Message Stranger21 »12 Apr 2013, 15:26
Message Oleg64 »Apr 12, 2013 10:19 pm
Message Pervak "13 Apr 2013, 14:41
Message Al giardino »13 Apr 2013, 18:02
And where is the starter relay on the 214 cornfield? I always thought that it was near the left leg. It turned out that he was not there
Read 16 pages of flood, do not send. I did not find anything sensible by searching
Message Oleg64 »Apr 13, 2013 10:19 pm
Message Portada »Apr 14, 2013 03:21 am
Message »Apr 16, 2013 10:33 am
Good time everyone. So I will join this topic.
The following thing happened: Yesterday I changed the generator tension bar (the old one managed to break), changed it, which means I pulled the belt and started the machine to check. Joyful that everything works and gives currents at 14.2-14.3, I drowned it out and went to look at the coolant temperature sensor, which I liked while I was poking around with my gena, because of its green oxidized color. He unscrewed it, and he was completely broken, changed it to a new one, and tugged at the knock sensor until the heap, about which the BC sometimes shouts. Satisfied that he had finished everything, he decided to start the machine in order to see the results of his labors.
And then here they are, you fig, even a click does not start. I cut everything, then turn the key again - it started up. I am happy as an elephant, I look at the readings of the BC to see what a replacement temperature sensor will give me. I saw nothing new, drowned it out and decided to start it again, for the sake of experiment. It didn't start again. He threw off the terminal from the battery, smoked it, put it back on and won't start again and again click. Then it started up for the last time, and after drowning out the next launch attempts, they let me know that the cornfield no longer wanted to go and work.
Symptoms: when trying to start, then one click and silence, then several (as with a discharged battery) and again zero effect. At the same time, a battery with a spill of 13 (this is quite enough for starting), lighting naturally does not help, I did not try from the pusher, because there is nothing to disperse in the yard, and it is difficult to carry the cornfield along the ruts with your hands. It is embarrassing that the clicks go one, then a lot. And I wonder how absolutely unrelated actions could lead to such a result, or is this a coincidence?
something similar began to manifest itself since winter, but it was not so severe, but it just looked like a battery discharge and was treated by lighting and charging the battery, and the other day, interesting symptoms were noticed a couple of times, which for some reason did not pay attention: I start the car on a cold one there is a click, and then the engine starts, or at first there is a zero reaction and after that everything starts and runs perfectly.
Video (click to play).
Is it a starter or a retractor? And who thinks about the situation as a whole?