Rear window heating DIY repair vaz 2109

The rear window heating element is switched on with relay 113.3747. At the same time, the control lamp 5, which is located next to the switch, comes on. It illuminates the switch key with orange light. Only when the ignition is on can the rear window heating be turned on, because voltage is supplied to the switch through an additional relay, which is triggered when the ignition is turned on.

A fuse directly connected to the power supply supplies power to the heating element through the relay contacts. If when the heated rear window of the VAZ 2109 is turned on and the glass is not heated, then the fuse, wires and connections, switch, relay should be checked.

If the heating element fails, it is advisable to replace the glass, however, it is much more convenient to purchase a kit for restoring damaged threads.

Heated rear window vaz 2109 defrosts the rear window. Consists of parallel conductors deposited on glass. Electric current is passed through them, the conductors heat up and defrost the rear window, also removing moisture from it. Power is supplied from a relay located in the engine compartment fuse box. If after fifteen minutes the glass still has not cleared, then you need to turn on the heater for the second cycle.

To do this, wrap the voltmeter probe with aluminum foil and press the foil with your finger and move it along the conductive threads. This way you can find where the threads are broken.

Initially, the volmeter will show a voltage of 6V. If it displays 12 V, then there is a break in the thread at this point on the side between the connection point of the volmeter and the side of the heater. If the voltage is below 0 V, then the conductive strip has an open circuit on the side between the connection point of the volt meter and the side of the heater.

Ohmmeter it is recommended to measure the resistance of the conductive strip between the side terminal of the heater and the center of the strip. The split section of the strip will have twice the resistance of the rest of the strips.

You can repair the conductive strip using a conductive compound: glue mixed with metal shavings, a special material. You will also need electrical tape, solvent, brush. Use a solvent to clean the area of ​​the glass where the conductive strip of the heater breaks. Insulating tape will be required as a stencil. Apply conductive compound, remove the adhesive tape. After a day, you can remove the excess.

If one of the threads responsible for heating the rear window stops working, it doesn't matter. There is an easy way to fix this situation.

You will need sulfuric acid and copper sulfate (copper sulfate). The former can be purchased at the car market, the latter at a store that sells fertilizers for flowers.

First of all, you will need to make a kind of "brush". In the center of it there will be a piece of copper tube or wire, which must be wrapped around the edge with a strip of fabric. Outside, the fabric is fixed with a bandage of several turns of thread.

To prepare a solution to restore the heating thread, stir two teaspoons of copper sulfate in 100 ml of water. Add about half a teaspoon of battery electrolyte (diluted sulfuric acid) to this solution.

Now connect both terminals of the glass to the "mass", and to the copper brush - "+" of the battery. Soak a brush in the prepared solution and gently wipe the place where the heating thread is broken.

The principle of this method is simple.When the current is connected, electrolytic dissociation occurs and copper ions are deposited at the point where the thread is broken. A few minutes are enough for the damaged area to be completely "tightened" with metal.

Be careful when handling sulfuric acid. Even when diluted to 40% (the usual concentration for winter electrolyte), it can burn skin and damage clothing.

Determine the cause of the heating failure. Inspect carefully all the heater wires located on the rear window - perhaps the reason is a break in one or more of them. Broken threads are usually visible to the naked eye.

- Find the places of the cliffs.
- Take the conductive adhesive from the rear window defroster repair kit and the stencil.
- Apply stenciled glue to the break in the heater filament.
- Check that the heater is working properly.

Rear window heating is a very useful thing - it protects the rear window from fogging and icing. However, very often it either does not work at all, or only part of the tracks works. I think that many owners of the VAZ 2109, when reversing, look at the road through the rear window. At least that's how I myself - it's very convenient. If this glass is fogged up or covered with snow, then nothing will be visible. And driving on mirrors, especially when used to driving looking through the rear window, is very inconvenient, and even scary. And driving safety is important. It’s not very pleasant to go in reverse on the mirrors and guess whether you hit someone or not.

Rear window heating VAZ 2109 does not work

The principle of operation of heating the rear window of a VAZ 2109 car is as follows: a conductive mesh is applied to the rear window from the inside of the passenger compartment. An electric current flowing through this mesh causes it to heat up, as a result, the rear window of the car is heated as well. The heating is turned on by pressing a button on the VAZ 2109 instrument panel.
If the heating of the VAZ 2109 does not work at all, then it is necessary to look for the reason why the voltage is not supplied to the rear window mesh. It is simple to check the presence of voltage for heating the rear window of the VAZ 2109: fold back the two wires brought up for heating and measure the voltage between them using a multimeter.

We measure the voltage of heating the rear window VAZ 2109

We measure the voltage of heating the rear window VAZ 2109

Naturally, before that, do not forget to press the button for turning on the heating on the instrument panel.

Turning on the heating of the rear window VAZ 2109

Turning on the heating of the rear window VAZ 2109

If there is no voltage, then it is necessary to check the heating switch-on relay in the mounting block, the heating switch-on button, the condition of the tracks in the mounting block, the integrity of the fuse, as well as the integrity of the wires to the rear window. If the voltage for heating comes, but the glass still freezes, then only part of the tracks is working, or maybe none at all. To find out which tracks are working and which are not, you need to turn on the heating when the rear window is slightly fogged up. Evaporation will disappear around the tracks that work. We memorize these tracks, or mark them somewhere so as not to forget. The rest of the paths around which the vapors did not dry out are faulty. There is only one fault in the more expensive rear window heating - they are torn. The break of the track can be spontaneous over time, and the track can also be scratched if something sharp or hard
rub on the rear window from the passenger compartment. A broken track can be detected by close inspection of each track of the heated rear window separately.

Breakage of heating threads VAZ 2109

Heating repair will consist in the restoration of damaged tracks. That is, it is necessary to eliminate the open circuit and ensure the flow of electric current along all tracks on the rear window.

A special conductive adhesive is on sale, which is perfect for such purposes. It is used as follows: glue adhesive tape on both sides of the gap in the track so that the gap between them is not thinner than the track.

Broken thread.Interior view of the salon VAZ 2109

Then we apply a thin layer of conductive glue at the break, connecting the track without waiting for the glue to dry, remove the adhesive tape from the rear window.
Remember that if a lane still doesn't work after applying conductive glue, then there is another gap somewhere along that lane.

In such a simple and understandable way, you can restore the heating of the rear glass. Now, whether in snow or rain, the rear window will be clear and clear, providing the driver with excellent visibility.

Heated rear window VAZ 2109 restored

If you live somewhere in the wilderness and no one in your area has heard of conductive glue, then there are quite a few options for restoring heated rear glass: from homemade adhesives with copper sawdust and graphite, and ending with fans for blowing the rear window. You can search the Internet and find what is right for you.

After the onset of winter, the presence of heating in the rear window of the car allows it to get rid of ice, thereby improving visibility for the driver.

As you know, special paths provide heating. They can deteriorate over time, which is usually the most common cause of the failure in question. However, this problem does not belong to the category of serious ones, and you will not need to contact a car service. It is not difficult to repair the heating yourself, if you know what exactly needs to be done.

It is worth noting that most often the rear window heating in a VAZ-2115 car does not work for the following reasons:

• blown fuse;
• there is no contact on its terminal;
• the toggle switch that turns on the heating has broken;
• the relay has become unusable;
• contacts on the terminals of the heater circuit are oxidized;
• the threads are broken.

Fuses often blow out. This usually happens unnoticed by the car owner.

As a result, this or that device stops working. For this reason, it is them that you should pay attention to in the first place, if you do not want to turn on:

• cigarette lighter;
• stove;
• burnout installed on the rear window, etc.

Replacing them with serviceable ones will completely solve the problem. In other cases, it will also be necessary to clean the terminals from dirt, and at least visually make sure that the power wires have not come off the buttons. If the relay is faulty, then it will need to be replaced - it is not very expensive and is installed quite easily.

To find out exactly what the reasons for the failure are, you only need a standard voltmeter, which every self-respecting motorist should have. The problem will be identified very soon by simple manipulations with this measuring device.

You should start checking the threads of the heating element with the following actions:

• the metal tips of the probes are wrapped with tin foil (this will avoid damage to the tracks);
• turn on the ignition;
• check if the heating button is pressed;
• one probe is applied to the positive side of the heating element mounted on the rear window;
• the second is set approximately in the center of the thread.

If the device shows 6 volts, then this means that there is no damage in this area. If the tester gives out 12 volts, the gap is somewhere in the distance between the probes.

With 10 volts available, it is safe to say that the gap is located between the minus and the center of the track. In this situation, it is more accurate to determine where the damage is located by connecting one probe to the negative output. At the same time, the second must be carefully guided along the thread from the plus to the opposite end. Finding the exact break point is evidenced by an increase in voltage from zero to 5 volts.

If there was no voltmeter at hand, then the gap will also be easy to find visually. To do this, you will need to wait until the windows in the car fog up, and only then turn on the heating. Where the track has remained functional, moisture will begin to noticeably evaporate. Condensate will remain in de-energized areas. These sections of the heating element will need to be examined in detail.This will require a magnifying glass.

If the heating is completely out of order, it can be replaced with a removable model, which is attached to the glass on special suction cups. It is connected to the electrical network of a car, like many other devices, through a cigarette lighter.

There are also modifications on sale in which an additional fan is installed. But this option is not very practical, since it requires too much electricity.

Patching the cliff as a whole is not a difficult task, and they solve it in several ways. Most often, electrically conductive paste is used. Before repairing, it will be necessary to fix the breakage with adhesive tape (in two pieces - one for each fragment of the track). The ends of the thread are cleaned and washed with alcohol. They are then coated with a paste and left to dry for at least 24 hours.

It is also possible to restore the performance of the rear window heating element with the help of:

• glue (type BF);
• metal filings;
• magnet.

Sawdust is quite easy to make using a file yourself. In turn, any magnet will do. It should be placed on the outside of the window and the metal dust on the inside where the heating element is located. Then the joint remains to be treated with glue and varnish. It is also allowed to use any oil paint.

Heating with a soldering iron is efficiently repaired. Here you need a solder containing a small amount of tin (for example, POS-18), instead of a flux, in this case, zinc chloride is taken. But this method is suitable only if the cliff is small. You will have to fill a large area with wire or copper or silver.

In addition, it should be noted that now in stores there are also special adhesives for repairing heating threads. But for some reason, they are currently not in demand.

To understand how to fix a damaged rear window heating in more detail, the video below will help:

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Power to the heating element is supplied through the contacts of relay 2 from the P4 fuse, which is directly connected to the power source.
If, when the heating is turned on, the rear window does not heat up, it is necessary to check the P4 fuse, wires and their connections, as well as the switch and relay 2.

USEFUL ADVICE
If the rear window heating element fails, the manufacturer recommends replacing the glass, but now there are special kits on sale for restoring damaged heating element threads, including all the necessary components, tools and instructions for use.

Rice. 9.24. Diagram of the rear window heating system on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 car:
1 - mounting block; 2 - relay for turning on the rear window heating; 3 - ignition lock; 4 - rear window heating switch;
5 - control lamp for turning on the rear window heating; 6 - rear window heating element

In cold weather or just in rainy weather, when you turn on the heated rear window, you may find that it simply does not work - either completely, the fogging does not go away, or one or more threads do not heat. Thus, the view from the rear window is reduced - which can negatively affect driving safety! It needs to be restored. BUT how, what to do? It turns out everything is quite simple, we read ...

THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE

Actually, the reason is well-known to everyone for a long time, on our VAZ, these threads are constantly "burning", and rolled with 1 - 2 - 3 threads that did not heat, terribly inconvenient! But now it turns out for a long time there are tools and repair kits that allow you to restore the whole thing, and quite effectively.

It's just that wires fit to the rear window, with a voltage of 12 volts. On the surface on the sides there are special tracks, into which these wires are embedded.The tracks run vertically upward, so to speak, the "main bus", there are only two of them on the right and left, at the extreme points.

And now from them there are thin (2 - 3 mm) horizontal stripes that heat the glass itself, clearing it from fogging, or from snow in winter. It is they who are the main working element of the entire structure.

Usually there are several dozen of them, about 20 - 40 in the working area, it all depends on the class of the car and the size of its rear window.

Of course, any electrical device is controlled by a fuse that is designed for a certain voltage and amperage.

Actually, there are only two main reasons, and both of them lie in the power system:

• Fuse. YES it can really burn out. This happens due to various reasons, maybe not a big closure banally and that's it. Thus, the heating will not work completely for you. Need to find fuse and check it... This is the first and required step.

• If it is intact, then we need to check the voltage on the wires that fit the main "tires" (side wide stripes). They usually have regular metal contacts. We just take a multimeter and measure it, if there is a voltage and it is about 12 volts, then the power is suitable here, everything is in order.
• The thin lines themselves. To be honest, they cannot all burn out at once. As a rule, from one to three, well, a maximum of four "threads" burn out. Therefore, if you have part of the window moving away (from fogging or ice), and part of it is not. It is necessary to look at the non-working threads.

• Examine this thin strip and you will see the clipping point. This will be a burnt-out part, there may be a little black color near it (although the thread is initially brown). Also, the thread will, as it were, open, this place needs to be connected in order to restore working capacity.

On my own I want to add, the fuse rarely burns, basically it is a break in the glass "threads" and they need to be restored.

I remember the distant days when it was practically impossible! Now what technology has come to - you can buy a rear window repair kit, specifically to restore these narrow strips. I suspect that there is some kind of metallized composition, or paint - but it is called conductive glue.

Such glue can withstand temperatures from - 60 to + 100 degrees Celsius. This is what we need to buy. The only thing I want to tell you - do not take the cheapest composition, now in my opinion it is about 150 - 200 rubles, take a little more expensive about 300 - 400 rubles, such compositions work much longer.

Now the actual instructions for recovery:

• To begin with, you need a little, I repeat a little - to clean the edges of the strip at the break points. It is necessary to remove carbon deposits and other deposits that form on the glass. For this, sandpaper "zero" is ideal, just a couple of movements and you're done.
• Wipe with alcohol, remove all plaque.
• Now we take the scotch tape, and glue the strips on the sides, in its thickness. The tape should not cover the strip, but it should not move away from it for a large distance precisely along the width of the thread, so that there are no gaps.
• Then we take our composition, "conductive glue". He either has a syringe or a special brush. We begin to paint over the place that we have prepared. How many layers to apply will be written in the instructions. So it is worth noting that you need to go to the working areas of the strip 1 centimeter to the right and left.

• Now we need the composition to dry. Take off the tape and wait. Usually about 24 hours is sufficient. BUT NOT BEFORE! After that, we turn on and check the performance, everything should work.

That's all, such a simple instruction. Now we are watching the video version.