Heated rear window do-it-yourself repair vaz 2109

With relay type 113.3747, the rear window heating element is switched on. At the same time, the control lamp 5, which is located next to the switch, lights up. It illuminates the switch button with orange light. Only when the ignition is on can the heated rear window be turned on, because the voltage is supplied to the switch through an additional relay that is activated when the ignition is turned on.

Through the contacts of the relay from the fuse, directly connected to the power source, power is supplied to the heating element. If when the rear window heating of the VAZ 2109 is turned on and the glass is not heated, then check the fuse, wires and connections, switch, relay.

If the heating element fails, it is advisable to replace the glass, however, it is much more convenient to purchase a kit to restore damaged threads.

Heated rear window vaz 2109 defrosts the rear window. Consists of parallel conductors sputtered onto glass. An electric current is passed through them, the conductors heat up and defrost the rear window, also cleaning it from moisture. A relay located in the engine compartment fuse box supplies current. If after fifteen minutes the glass is still not clear, then you need to turn on the heater for the second cycle.

To do this, wrap the voltmeter probe with aluminum foil and press the foil with your finger and move it along the conductive threads. So you can find the place where the threads break.

Initially, the voltmeter will show a voltage of 6V. If it displays 12 V, then in this place there is a break in the thread from the side between the connection point of the voltmeter and the side of the heater. If the voltage is below 0 V, then the conductive strip has a break on the side between the connection point of the voltmeter and the side of the heater.

Ohmmeter it is recommended to measure the resistance of the conductive strip between the side terminal of the heater and the center of the strip. The broken strip section will have twice the resistance of the rest of the strips.

You can repair a conductive strip using a conductive mass: glue mixed with metal shavings, a special material. You will also need electrical tape, solvent, brush. The solvent should be used to clean the glass area at the point where the conductive strip of the heater is broken. Electrical tape will be required as a stencil. Apply conductive compound, remove adhesive tape. After a day, you can remove the excess.

If one of the threads responsible for heating the rear window has stopped working, it doesn’t matter. There is an easy way to fix this situation.

You will need sulfuric acid and copper sulfate (copper sulfate). The first can be purchased at the car market, the last - in a store that sells fertilizers for flowers.

First of all, you will need to make a kind of "brush". In the center of it there will be a piece of copper tube or wire, which must be wrapped around the edge with a strip of cloth. Outside, the fabric is fixed with a bandage of several turns of thread.

To prepare a solution to restore the heating filament, mix two teaspoons of copper sulfate in 100 ml of water. Add about half a teaspoon of battery electrolyte (dilute sulfuric acid) to the resulting solution.

Now connect both glass terminals to the "ground", and to the copper brush - "+" of the battery. Wet the brush in the prepared solution and gently wipe the place where the heating thread is broken.

The principle of operation of this method is simple.When the current is connected, electrolytic dissociation occurs and copper ions precipitate at the place where the thread breaks. A few minutes are enough for the damaged area to be completely "dragged" with metal.

Be careful when handling sulfuric acid. Even when diluted to 40% (the usual concentration for a winter electrolyte), it can burn the skin and damage clothes.

Determine the cause of the heating failure. Inspect carefully all the heater wires located on the rear window - perhaps the reason is a break in one or more of them. Thread breakage is usually visible to the naked eye.

- Locate breaks.
– Take the conductive adhesive from the electric rear window defroster repair kit and a stencil.
– Apply stencil glue to the broken heater wire.
– Check the operation of the heater.

Rear window heating is a very necessary thing - it protects the rear window from fogging and icing. However, very often it either does not work at all, or only part of the tracks work. I think that many owners of the VAZ 2109, when reversing, look at the road through the rear window. At least that's how I do it myself - it's very convenient. If this glass is foggy or in the snow, then nothing will be visible. And driving on mirrors, especially when you are used to driving looking out the rear window, is very inconvenient, and scary. And driving safety is important. It's not very pleasant to ride in reverse on the mirrors and wonder if you will hit someone or not.

Heated rear window VAZ 2109 does not work

The principle of operation of the heating of the rear window of a VAZ 2109 car is as follows: a conductive mesh is applied to the rear window from the inside of the passenger compartment. An electric current flowing through this mesh causes it to heat up, as a result, the rear window of the car also heats up. The heating is turned on by pressing a button on the instrument panel of the VAZ 2109.
If the heating of the VAZ 2109 does not work at all, then it is necessary to look for the reason why the voltage is not supplied to the rear window mesh. Checking the presence of voltage for heating the rear window of the VAZ 2109 is simple: you recline the two wires connected to the heating and measure the voltage between them using a multimeter.

We measure the voltage of the heated rear window VAZ 2109

We measure the voltage of the heated rear window VAZ 2109

Naturally, before this, do not forget to press the heating button on the instrument panel.

Turning on the heating of the rear window VAZ 2109

Turning on the heating of the rear window VAZ 2109

If there is no voltage, then it is necessary to check the heating on relay in the mounting block, the heating on button, the condition of the tracks in the mounting block, the integrity of the fuse, and the integrity of the wires to the rear window. If the voltage for heating comes, but the glass still freezes over, then only a part of the tracks work, or maybe none of them work at all. To find out which tracks work and which don't, you need to turn on the heating when the rear window is a little foggy. Around the tracks that work, the evaporation will disappear. We remember these tracks, or mark somewhere so as not to forget. The rest of the tracks, around which the evaporation did not dry out, are faulty. There is only one malfunction for more expensive rear window heating - they are torn. The rupture of the track can be spontaneous over time, and the track can also be scratched if something sharp or hard
rub on the rear window from the passenger compartment. A break in the track can be detected by a close inspection of each rear window heating track separately.

Breakage of heating threads vaz 2109

Heating repair will consist in restoring the damaged areas of the tracks. That is, it is necessary to eliminate the break in the electrical circuit and ensure the flow of electric current through all the tracks on the rear window.

A special conductive adhesive is sold, which is perfect for such purposes. It is used as follows: on both sides of the break in the track, glue the adhesive tape so that the gap between them is no thinner than the track.

Thread break.View from inside the salon VAZ 2109

Then we apply a thin layer of conductive glue at the point of rupture, connecting the track without waiting for the glue to dry, remove the adhesive tape from the rear window.
Remember that if the track still doesn't work after applying the conductive adhesive, there is another break somewhere along the track.

In such a simple and understandable way, you can restore the rear glass heating. Now, in snow and rain, the rear window will be clean and transparent, providing the driver with excellent visibility.

Heated rear window VAZ 2109 restored

If you live somewhere in the middle of nowhere and no one in your area has heard of conductive glue, then there are quite a few options for restoring heated rear windows: from home-made adhesives with copper filings and graphite to fans for blowing the rear window. You can search the Internet and find what is right for you.

After the onset of winter, the presence of heating in the rear window of the car allows you to get rid of ice, thereby improving visibility for the driver.

As you know, heating is provided by special paths. They can break down over time, which is usually the most common cause of the breakdown in question. However, this problem does not belong to the category of serious ones, and you will not need to contact a car service. Repairing the heating is not difficult and on your own, if you know what exactly needs to be done.

It is worth noting that most often the rear window heating does not work in a VAZ-2115 car for the following reasons:

• the fuse has blown;
• there is no contact on its terminal;
• the toggle switch that turns on the heating is broken;
• the relay has become unusable;
• oxidized contacts on the terminals of the heater circuit;
• thread breakage has occurred.

Fuses blow quite often. This usually happens unnoticed by the car owner.

As a result, one or another device stops working. For this reason, it is to them that you should pay attention first of all if you do not want to turn on:

• cigarette lighter;
• stove;
• burner installed on the rear window, etc.

Replacing them with serviceable ones will solve the problem completely. In other cases, it will also be necessary to clean the terminals from dirt, and at least visually make sure that the power wires have not come off the buttons. If the relay is faulty, then it will need to be replaced - it is not very expensive and is installed quite easily.

To find out exactly what the reasons for the failure are, you only need a standard voltmeter, which any self-respecting motorist should have. By simple manipulations with this measuring device, the problem will be detected very soon.

Start checking the heating element filaments with the following steps:

• metal tips of the probes are wrapped with tin foil (this will avoid damage to the tracks);
• turn on the ignition;
• check if the heating button is pressed;
• one probe is applied to the plus of the heating element mounted on the rear window;
• the second is set approximately in the center of the thread.

If the device shows 6 volts, then this means that there is no damage in this area. If the tester outputs 12 volts, the gap is somewhere in the segment between the probes.

In the presence of 10 volts, it is safe to say that the gap is located between the minus and the center of the track. In this situation, it is more accurate to determine where the damage is located by connecting one probe to the negative output. At the same time, the second must be carefully guided along the thread from the plus to the opposite end. An increase in voltage from zero to 5 volts indicates the exact location of the break.

If there was no voltmeter at hand, then the gap will also not be difficult to find visually. To do this, you will need to wait until the windows in the car fog up, and only then turn on the heating. Where the track has remained operational, moisture will begin to noticeably evaporate. In de-energized areas, condensate will remain. These segments of the heating element will need to be examined in detail.This will require a magnifying glass.

If the heating is completely out of order, it can be replaced with a removable model, which is attached to the glass on special suction cups. It is connected to the car's electrical network, like many other devices, through the cigarette lighter.

There are also modifications on sale in which an additional fan is installed. But this option is not very practical, because it requires too much electricity.

Patching the cliff as a whole is not a difficult task, and it is solved in several ways. The most commonly used electrically conductive paste. Before repair, it will be necessary to fix the place of the break with adhesive tape (two pieces - one for each fragment of the track). The ends of the thread are cleaned and washed with alcohol. Then paste is applied to them and left to dry for at least 24 hours.

You can also restore the operability of the rear window heating element using:

• glue (type BF);
• metal filings;
• magnet.

Sawdust is quite easy to make and using a file yourself. In turn, any magnet will do. It must be placed on the outside of the window, and metal dust on the inside, where the heating element is located. Then the joint remains to be treated with glue and varnish. You can also use any oil paint.

Heating with a soldering iron is quite effective. Here you will need a solder containing a small amount of tin (for example, POS-18), instead of a flux, zinc chloride is taken in this case. But this method is only suitable if the break is small. You will have to fill a large area with wire or copper or silver.

In addition, it should be noted that now in stores there are also special adhesive compositions for repairing heating filaments. But for some reason they are currently not in demand.

The video below will help you figure out how to fix a damaged rear window heating in more detail:

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Power is supplied to the heating element through relay contacts 2 from fuse P4, which is directly connected to the power source.
If the rear window is not heated when the heating is switched on, check the P4 fuse, the wires and their connections, as well as the switch and relay 2.

USEFUL ADVICE
If the rear window heating element fails, the manufacturer recommends replacing the glass, but now there are special kits for repairing damaged heating element filaments, which include all the necessary components, tools and instructions for use.

Rice. 9.24. Scheme of the rear window heating system on a car VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099:
1 - mounting block; 2 – the relay of inclusion of heating of back glass; 3 - ignition lock; 4 – the switch of heating of back glass;
5 – a control lamp of inclusion of heating of back glass; 6 – an element of heating of back glass

In cold weather or just in rainy weather, when you turn on the heated rear window, you can find that it simply does not work - either completely, fogging does not go away, or one or more threads do not heat up. This reduces the view from the rear window – which can have a negative impact on driving safety! Need to be restored. BUT how, what to do? It turns out that everything is quite simple, we read ...

THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE

Actually, the reason has long been known to everyone, on our VAZs, these threads were constantly “burning”, and they rode with 1 - 2 - 3 threads that did not warm up, terribly inconvenient! But now it turns out that for a long time there are tools and repair kits that allow you to restore the whole thing, and quite effectively.

Everything is just wires with a voltage of 12 volts to the rear window. On the surface on the sides there are special tracks into which these wires are embedded.The tracks go vertically up, so to speak - the "main bus", there are two of them on the right and left, at the extreme points.

And now they come from them, thin (2 - 3 mm), horizontal strips that heat up the glass itself, clearing it from fogging or snow in winter. They are the main working element of the whole structure.

Usually there are several dozen of them, about 20 - 40 in the working area, it all depends on the class of the car and the size of its rear window.

Of course, any electrical device is controlled by a fuse, which is designed for a certain voltage and amperage.

Actually, there are only two main reasons, and both of them lie in the power system:

• Fuse. YES, it can actually burn out. This happens due to various reasons, maybe it’s not a big short circuit and that’s it. Thus, the heating will not work for you completely. Need to find fuse and check it. This is the first and mandatory step.

• If it is intact, then we need to check the voltage on the wires that fit the main "tires" (side wide strips). As a rule, they have ordinary metal contacts. We just take a multimeter and measure it, if there is voltage and it is about 12 volts, then the power is coming here, everything is in order.
• The thin lines themselves. To be honest, all of them cannot burn out at once. As a rule, it burns out from one to three, well, a maximum of four “threads”. Therefore, if you have part of the window moving away (from fogging or ice), but not part. It is necessary to look at non-working threads.

• Examine this thin strip and you will see the place of the break. This will be the burnt part, there may be a little black around it (although the thread is initially brown). Also, the thread will, as it were, open, and this place must be connected in order to restore working capacity.

From myself I want to add that the fuse rarely burns, basically it is a break in the "threads" of glass, it is they who need to be restored.

I remember a long time ago when it was almost impossible! Now what technology has come to - you can buy a rear window repair kit, just to restore these narrow strips. I suspect that there is some kind of metallized composition, or paint - but it is called conductive glue.

Such glue withstands temperatures from - 60 to + 100 degrees Celsius. That is what we need to buy. The only thing I want to tell you - do not take the cheapest composition, now in my opinion it is about 150 - 200 rubles, take a little more expensive about 300 - 400 rubles, such compositions work much longer.

Now the actual instructions for recovery:

• To begin with, you need a little, I repeat a little - to clean the edges of the strip in the places of the cliff. It is necessary to remove soot and other deposits that form on the glass. For this, sandpaper "null" is ideal, just a couple of movements and you're done.
• We wipe with alcohol, remove all plaque.
• Now we take the adhesive tape, and paste the strips on the sides, in its thickness. The adhesive tape should not cover the strip, but it should not move away from it for a long distance exactly along the width of the thread, so that there are no gaps.
• Next, we take our composition, “conductive glue”. He either has a syringe or a special brush. We begin to paint over the place that we have prepared. How many layers to apply will be written in the instructions. So it is worth noting that you need to go to the working sections of the strip 1 centimeter to the right and left.

• Now we need to dry the composition. Take off the tape and wait. Usually about 24 hours is enough. BUT NOT EARLIER! After that we turn on and check the performance, everything should work.

That's all, this is not a complicated instruction. Now we are watching the video version.