The algorithm for determining the cause of the malfunction is similar for most cars, the only differences are in the names of fuses, relays and connectors.
By the way, did you know that the Heated Glass Regulator (ROC) is used to extend the life of the heating elements, and you can also install a Fresnel lens on the rear window?
How the relays and fuses are located is not important, the connection is the same (except for the K8 relay)
In the third, there are those and those without generator excitation resistors (and legs behind Ш4 / 9) that are needed if there is an old tidy (otherwise the generator will not give a charge until it turns on).
In the fourth
The VAZ-2123 uses the same block (392.3722), only its lower mount is longer.
Maybe they are still somewhat different, but this is all that has been figured out so far.
Block diagram 2110 (with resistors and without relay K8)
Diagram and pinout of block 3160
Block contacts for example 2110
Relay:
And addition:
Apparently this is one of the first 2110. I did not find an electrical circuit with this separate fuse, also with Ш4 / 9 connected, although in some of the block pinouts it is (there is a brown-white wire, which is for the generator lamp).
TOTAL:
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It helped a lot, thanks! At least a little figured out the wiring)
excellent entry. The feet stopped working, I found out that the problem was in the mounting block, I looked through everything and could not understand what was the matter. there was such a block 2110-3722010-08. I found this 2110-3722010-12 put it with him the cigarette lighter and speedometer with a tachometer did not work! in the end I was able to revive my own.
and the injection blocks and carbide are different?
thanks, the post you want. just on an old G-class 85 g.I was going to put the relay unit 2110, otherwise there is not a single relay, except for the turn and the wiper, only the fuses and the entire load on the buttons, the ignition switch and light switches.
1 - mounting block;
K6 - additional relay;
The glass heating element is switched on by means of an auxiliary relay K7, type 904.3747-10, installed in the mounting block. When the heating is turned on, the
The heated rear window can only be turned on when the ignition is on, since voltage is supplied to switch 3 through an additional relay K6, which is triggered when the ignition is turned on.
Power to the glass heating element is supplied through the contacts of the K7 relay from the F7 fuse, which is directly connected to the power supplies.
If the rear window is not heated when the heating is turned on, it is necessary to check the fuse F8, wires and their connections, as well as the switch and relay K7.
The glass heating element is connected through the K7 relay type 904.3747-10 installed in the mounting block. When the heating is switched on, the orange indicator lamp comes on. Voltage is supplied to the switch only when the ignition of the VAZ 2110 is turned on through an additional relay K6 in the mounting block.
If the heating element fails, the rear window of the VAZ 2112 is replaced.
Rear window heating system diagram
1 - - mounting block
2 - - ignition switch
3 - - rear window heating switch
4 - - control lamp for turning on heating
5 - - rear window heating element
K6 - - additional relay
K7 - relay for turning on the rear window heating
A - - to power supplies
In cold weather or just in rainy weather, when you turn on the heated rear window, you may find that it simply does not work - either completely, the fogging does not go away, or one or more threads do not heat. This reduces the view from the rear window - which can negatively affect driving safety! It needs to be restored. BUT how, what to do? It turns out everything is quite simple, we read ...
THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE
Actually, the reason is well-known to everyone for a long time, on our VAZ, these threads are constantly "burning", and rolled with 1 - 2 - 3 threads that did not heat, terribly inconvenient! But now it turns out that there are tools and repair kits for a long time that allow you to restore the whole thing, and quite effectively.
It's just that wires fit to the rear window, with a voltage of 12 volts. On the surface on the sides there are special tracks, into which these wires are embedded. The tracks run vertically upward, so to speak, the "main bus", there are only two of them on the right and left, at the extreme points.
And now from them go, thin (2 - 3 mm), horizontal stripes that heat the glass itself, clearing it from fogging, or from snow in winter. It is they who are the main working element of the entire structure.
Usually there are several dozen of them, about 20 - 40 in the working area, it all depends on the class of the car and the size of its rear window.
Of course, any electrical device is controlled by a fuse that is designed for a certain voltage and amperage.
Actually, there are only two main reasons, and both of them lie in the power system:
Fuse. YES it can really burn out. This happens due to various reasons, maybe not a big closure banally and that's it. Thus, the heating will not work completely for you. Need to find fuse and check it ... This is the first and required step.
If it is intact, then we need to check the voltage on the wires that fit the main "tires" (side wide stripes). They usually have regular metal contacts.We just take a multimeter and measure it, if there is a voltage and it is about 12 volts, then the power is suitable here, everything is in order.
The thin lines themselves. To be honest, they cannot all burn out at once. As a rule, from one to three, well, a maximum of four "threads" burn out. Therefore, if you have part of the window moving away (from fogging or ice), and part of it is not. It is necessary to look at the non-working threads.
Examine this thin strip and you will see the clipping point. This will be a burnt-out part, there may be a little black color near it (although the thread is initially brown). Also, the thread will, as it were, open, this place needs to be connected in order to restore working capacity.
On my own I want to add, the fuse rarely burns, basically it is a break in the glass "threads" and they need to be restored.
I remember the distant days when it was practically impossible! Now what technology has come to - you can buy a rear window repair kit, specifically to restore these narrow strips. I suspect that there is some kind of metallized composition, or paint - but it is called conductive glue.
Such glue can withstand temperatures from - 60 to + 100 degrees Celsius. This is what we need to buy. The only thing I want to tell you - do not take the cheapest composition, now in my opinion it is about 150 - 200 rubles, take a little more expensive about 300 - 400 rubles, such compositions work much longer.
Now the actual instructions for recovery:
To begin with, you need a little, I repeat a little - to clean the edges of the strip at the break points. It is necessary to remove carbon deposits and other deposits that form on the glass. For this, sandpaper "zero" is ideal, just a couple of movements and you're done.
Wipe with alcohol, remove all plaque.
Now we take the scotch tape, and glue the strips on the sides, in its thickness. The scotch tape should not cover the strip, but it should not move away from it for a large distance precisely along the width of the thread, so that there are no gaps.
Then we take our composition, "conductive glue". He either has a syringe or a special brush. We begin to paint over the place that we have prepared. How many layers to apply will be written in the instructions. So it is worth noting that you need to go to the working areas of the strip 1 centimeter to the right and left.
Now we need the composition to dry. Take off the tape and wait. Usually about 24 hours is sufficient. BUT NOT BEFORE! After that, we turn on and check the performance, everything should work.
That's all, such a simple instruction. Now we are watching the video version.
VIDEO I, as it turned out, too. The block was melted by the previous owner. I go without heating the glass.
1200 rubles and 5 minutes of work and you will be happy.
Replace the fuse with a bulb of at least 21W. If it is short, then it will burn in full heat.
Lana, I’ll go to the garage for the weekend and look for it. ATP for advice))
Dear members of the forum! The following problem arose - VAZ 2110, the rear window heating fuse melted, changed the mounting block to a new one, after which the rear window heating stopped working altogether. I think what to do, tell me !?
for a start, probably you need to call him, maybe he is not a worker
Dear members of the forum! The following problem arose - VAZ 2110, the rear window heating fuse melted, changed the mounting block to a new one, after which the rear window heating stopped working altogether. I think what to do, tell me !?
I would do this - remove the trim on the rear window to get to the heater connectors. If the fuse has blown before, then there is a leak. So you need to check the condition of the connectors on the glass. Can be short to ground. In this case, clean, bend, insulate.
The leak can be determined by removing the positive wire from the heating filament terminal and ringing it with a tester between the ground with the button turned off. If the ground is called - a short circuit. Then turn it on - if the voltage is 12V - everything is ok.
Dear members of the forum! The following problem arose - VAZ 2110, the rear window heating fuse melted, changed the mounting block to a new one, after which the rear window heating stopped working altogether. I think what to do, tell me !?
look in the pads at the mounting block. maybe the wire fell off when replacing. and all of the above +1
The problem is that the heater on the limit switches does not work, the voltage is 0.06 v. on the diagram I realized that the power comes from contact 87 of the K7 relay. Power supply 12.6 comes out from the relay. The problem is that I do not know where the wire runs from the limit switches to terminal 87 on the K7 relay.
The wire for heating the glass comes from contact 2 of the Ш5 block (gray / red) with a cross section of 2.5 mm square. When the mounting block is open in the niche on the left, there are pads on the front and back, a single wire (gray / red) comes out of the bundle on the back to the shoe, which goes through an individual connector (male-female) into a thick GRAY wire. Further, this wire can be found under the luggage compartment trim on the left (in the block). + 12 volts comes to the left contact of the heated glass. the right conclusion is to ground. By checking with the heating turned on, go through the indicated circuit and find where the voltage is lost. I recommend starting with the mounting block.
The problem is that the heater on the limit switches does not work, the voltage is 0.06 v. on the diagram I realized that the power comes from contact 87 of the K7 relay. Power supply 12.6 comes out from the relay. The problem is that I do not know where the wire runs from the limit switches to terminal 87 on the K7 relay.
Mon 20 Aug 2012
It began to get colder on the street and in the morning more and more often the first thing to do is to press the rear window heating button. But the HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure, it remains to repair on your own. Generally Recommended Repair Methods
heating threads of the rear window, according to those who have tried, leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of proprietary mixtures.
And in the vastness of the network I met an interesting repair technology, the reviews of those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:
Description of technology.
Of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.
Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long. At the end of the bar, wind a strip of fabric halfway up its width - you should get something like a brush. Above, you need to put a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.
Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with akka electrolyte - it is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate are poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved. Not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting solution, you need to add 0.2-0.3% percent of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
Well, the process itself. Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it, nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.
We moisten the positive electrode in the solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, with large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an unheated soldering iron and a jumper made of a thin wire should be soldered.
There is no need to limit the current as after a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flow
A couple more ways ... ... - turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, while the whole thread with the break does not sweat.
- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, switch on the ignition and switch on the rear window defroster.
- to locate the break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.
- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second probe to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
Directly repair threads:
In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.
- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.
- of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and
- from the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or a wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.
- at the end of the thread, wind a strip of fabric on half of its width - you should get something like a brush.
Above need to put on a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.
- preparation of the electrolyte - not to be confused with the electrolyte of the accumulator - is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulphate is poured into half a glass of water, and mixed until dissolved, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention.
In the obtained p-p it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the percentage of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "ground" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it - nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We moisten the positive electrode in solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.
A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, for large gaps, the copper-bonded areas should be irradiated with an undisturbed soldering iron and soldered from a thin wire.
There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!
3rd method (paint with shavings):
4th method (magnet and glue):
5th method (special adhesives):
6th method (soldering):
7th method (sawdust and glue):
To implement this idea, I used the second method - electrolytic coating.
it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I called this place with a tester ... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:
it is done very simply ... he took 3 copper conductors from a copper wire of 2.5 mm cross-section, soldered them together, put a heat-shrink tube on them, cleaned the copper, wound a rag about 3 cm wide, fastened it all with ties ....
on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that you can connect this device instead of heating. Then copper sulphate began to play, fortunately, there were old stocks and I took a little acid from the battery with a syringe .... (You can buy copper sulphate in a store where fertilizers are sold)
Then everything was according to the instructions .... put the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from the glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus the "+" appeared on the electrode ...
Video (click to play).
There is a "-" sign on the heating strips. I just walked around the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... For reliability, I also soldered this place, since after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
