DIY shoes repair

In detail: DIY shoes repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.

I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.

Thank you, it was very informative and understandable, I think that even I can cope with such a task, only I hear the name of such glue for the first time, and the rubber moment for shoes is not suitable for this purpose? And if it fits, then you need to glue it with a hair dryer or according to the instructions. A master class on heels made of polyurethane, as well as prophylaxis on the soles, would not hurt.

The glue will not hold the sole moment, it can only glue leather and rubber. "Moment" glue does not adhere synthetic materials.

Soon there will be a master class on heels and preventive measures, I will show and teach you how to do it!

Thank you for your answer, but you can suddenly add a photo of a bottle of glue wherever it comes across. And as for the selection of bread from the masters, so I think so, why pay someone money for something that you can do yourself. Moreover, there are such cases where you cannot contact workshop (for example, in the village), and thanks to your master class, you can repair yourself

The glue is called "Dismakol". It is sold in a shoe store for shoemakers. There are shops that sell shoe repair materials. Such shops should be in all cities. The bottle may not be there. For example, I buy on tap.

Thank you very much! We, women on heels, really need MK. Will wait. And this one, with your permission, I am dragging to my bins.

Or can you tell me how you can remove a cut on a leather jacket, otherwise we don't even have a sensible atelier?

Where is the cut? Take a picture and show, please.

Sorry to wedge myself into this conversation. My sister came to visit, and they cut her cloak on the bus, apparently they wanted to steal the money. So we racked our brains with her how to glue it so that it was not noticeable and came up with it, she wore it for a long time. First, we connected the incision and sealed it on top with ordinary transparent tape to fix this cut. Then, on the reverse side of the skin, at the place of the cut, they glued a pharmacy scotch tape on a rag basis, our Soviet one (it sticks tightly). Again, turn the skin on the face, remove the transparent tape, and grease the place between the two skin incisions with glue over the skin and press the sections together. When dry, you can walk a little with shoe polish in color, the cut is not visible. After that, I help to reanimate all leather clothes for myself, for children, and friends. Of course, experts do not do this, but as an option I really like this method. Once again, I'm sorry for getting in, but I think it might come in handy if I could explain it clearly.

Video (click to play).

Thanks, I will take note of your method :)

Well Shumaher, you just give out all the secrets of shoemaking) You literally take bread from the masters!

If everyone learns how to make shoes at home, then why are shoe repairmen needed?

I am not greedy! Whoever was lazy before will not do anything himself after my lessons!

You can take away the bread from a real master!

Cool, just super, thank you very much for the detailed MK, just the boots broke in the same way, you can't put it on, but it's a pity to throw it away

Hooray! My favorite, comfortable boots - to live !, probably

Now I want to try it myself, I won't carry it for repairs. Thanks to the master!

such an MK is affordable! Thanks!

just tell me what kind of glue you can use?

Many thanks for such an understandable (even to blondes, far from shoemaking) MK! Can you tell me how to paint the tattered plastic heels of the boots and shoes, it’s a pity to throw away expensive boots .. but I don’t want to wear the tattered ones either ..

You were just in time, Monday or Tuesday, I was going to release an MK on heel painting, so wait a bit!

Thank you very much, because this is a "sore subject" - how many excellent boots are sent to the trash just because of the peeled heels, and for some reason in the workshops they do not always undertake to paint .. I will look forward to it!

Thank you so much for such an understandable MK! You are a true master of your craft.

Thanks! Everything is very clear step by step, concise and intelligible! Without unnecessary unnecessary phrases, everything is just to the point. And the shot is very clear and you can see what and how.

Thank you. Excellent! And don't worry about the "bread" - I wanted to repair it myself, but now, having looked carefully, I realized that I could just ruin my boot, it’s better to the master, but we don’t have it. We'll have to ask someone to take them to the nearest settlement with a master, a knife and glue. Thanks for saving my boot!

Hello! There was such a problem: a perforated leather ballerina was torn at the sole. Can it somehow be repaired, or is it over? Mk on the Internet on patches for perforated shoes I can not find

Despite the fact that there are many shoe repair shops, sometimes people prefer to do the repair themselves. This is due to the fact that the services of craftsmen are far from cheap, and even not always of high quality. Would you say it's easier to throw out your old shoes or boots? This is not true. Materials are inexpensive, and craftsmen who know how to repair shoes with their own hands can significantly extend their life.

Some people who are familiar with the basics of shoemaking make their own adhesive mix. For example, it perfectly glues acetone with nylon. Hand-made production of rubber glue is a complicated matter that requires significant temperatures, therefore it is easier to purchase a ready-made one.

Sometimes regular “Super Glue” is used to repair shoes at home. It is important that the shoes are absolutely clean and dry. The boot is glued, after preheating the composition with a construction hair dryer. And professional craftsmen do not like molecular glue, since it sets tightly, and it can be quite problematic to fix an accidental flaw.

Important! In workshops, professional solutions are used, such as “Nairit” or “Desmakol”. There are numerous formulation options with various additives. Professionals often use Rapid. However, it is unlikely to be suitable for home repairs, since it is sold exclusively in bulk.

In order to replace the heels on boots or shoes, use a special metal foot or some kind of fixation device.

Use heels with a pin-nail.
To make them sit stronger, the pin is lubricated with superglue.
If the diameter of the nail does not match the heel sleeve, the pin is slightly sharpened or expanded by hitting with a hammer.
After the heel is installed, it is grinded with a special stone or drill, exactly to the thickness of the heel.

This is a rather complicated procedure, and if you are not sure that you will follow it carefully, contact the wizard.

Installing a heel on a wide heel is much easier:

It can be attached to the “Super-glue” after heating it with a hair dryer.
If the heel is leather or wooden, use the "Nairit" composition, and it is applied to both surfaces. Then, after waiting a little, connect and fix both parts.

How carefully the shoe is glued depends on its appearance and how long it will last after repair. For all its seeming simplicity, it is difficult to properly glue the shoes in order to repair the sole. The workshop has special tools for this. However, in some cases, you can use the means at hand.

The parts are preheated and only then glued together. Already repaired shoes are kept in a warm room for 24 hours. Only in this case the sole will hold firmly enough.

You can also repair shoes with your own hands using “liquid leather”. This is useful if the upper is worn out or if you stumbled unsuccessfully.

If the skin is seriously torn, but first the product is glued from the inside with gauze or bandage. This is necessary so that the seam made with “liquid leather” does not come apart. The further procedure is as follows:

Shoes are washed, dried, cleaned of lint and scraps of leather.
The place of repair is degreased (any detergent will do).
The composition is selected according to the shade.

Important! Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired color, several multi-colored compositions are mixed. In this case, you can use a special table.

Apply “liquid skin” to the surface to be repaired using a paintbrush. If you press the surface with a piece of leather, you get a realistic relief.
In case of inaccurate application or color mismatch, the composition can be removed within half an hour. Then they wait until the surface is dry, and the composition is reapplied.

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Apply a suitable adhesive to the outsole and the degreased inner side of the outsole. Without gluing, withstand it for 15 minutes. Then apply a second coat and wait another 15-20 minutes.Then you need to activate the glue, heating it with a hair dryer or stove to 70-80 degrees.

While still hot, the outsole should be firmly pressed against the sole, preferably with a hard object.

That's it, DIY shoe repair is complete and the shoes are saved! But you can wear it only a day after the repair - then the glue will finally adhere and dry.

Old sneakers or sneakers! Someone takes shoes to the landfill immediately, while someone knows these wonderful secrets and enjoys the process of restoring worn pairs ...

How to fix your shoes if an ugly scuff or hole appears on the fabric backing? What if the sole turns yellow or has black streaks of unknown origin? How to properly wash your sneakers in the washing machine? Let's clarify!

Restoration is such a complicated word! But it denotes simple processes: to hem the shoes where necessary, to touch up, to make them perfectly clean. I do not see anything wrong with taking measures to save your favorite sneakers!

Frayed socks on sneakers or sneakers and even noticeable holes will help to mask a patch.
Be sure to wash and dry your shoes before repairing!
Before attaching the thermal patch, sew pieces of raincoat fabric on the worn places. This must be done from the outside so that after repair the shoes do not sting and there is no discomfort when walking.
Preheat the iron to maximum, but turn off the steam function.
Cut the thermal patch in half. Remove the protective film and attach the fabric to the shoe.
Iron the thermal patch until the wrinkles disappear. If any pieces of fabric are unnecessary, cut them off with nail scissors.

White outsole is extremely easy to get dirty! Citric acid will help to restore whiteness: rub the powder over the entire surface of the sole, leave for a while, then rinse thoroughly. Baking soda cleans and whitens the sole well.

One of my favorite methods - an old toothbrush and whitening toothpaste - will cope with even tough dirt! A regular pencil mark eraser can also help wipe stains off your shoes. So do not rush to send sneakers with yellowed soles to the landfill.

Can I machine wash my sneakers? Of course you can, but you need to follow a number of rules! Even very old shoes can be transformed by machine washing.

If your sneakers have reflectors, you cannot wash them in a typewriter - bright details will definitely come off. Before washing, be sure to remove the laces and insoles from the sneakers, so the shoes are washed much better.

Place shoes in a washing bag before loading them into the machine. Choose a delicate mode, the washing temperature should not exceed 30 degrees. I recommend turning off the spin mode: this can harm the washing machine, even if the sneakers calmly endure the procedure.

Never dry your sneakers in the washing machine! This will deform them. Before leaving your sneakers to dry naturally, fill them with white paper. Never with newspapers - newspaper paint can stain shoes. You can use food parchment for this purpose.

If your shoes smell bad, baking soda can help! Place an open plastic bag of baking soda inside your sneaker overnight. Soda will absorb any odors and moisture like magic!

Sometimes it is enough to simply replace the laces on the shoes to completely change the look. Colored laces bring even a worn pair to life!

Why not lace up your sneakers in a new way? Here are some cute ways to make your shoes look more original. Save it and use it with pleasure!

Hope these tips help you bring more than one pair of old shoes to life! Tell us what tricks you use for home shoe restoration, we will be very grateful.

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Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.

I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.

It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.

I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.

- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.

- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.

- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.

- Scissors or a utility knife.

- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.

First, let's shred everything into pieces.

Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.

We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.

Cut out leatherette to size.

And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.

I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.

We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.

We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)

We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.

We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:

But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.

Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.

And we sew where there were factory seams.

This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.

Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.

Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.

For those who do a lot themselves with their own hands, the most complete information on shoe repair is provided.

How to put a heel on your own, attach a heel or return the sole that “requested porridge” in place, what materials are needed for shoe repair. The technology of repairing leather footwear by hand and glue methods is consistently described; also answers to questions about repairing rubber and felted shoes. Moreover, the execution of operations is illustrated in numerous detailed diagrams and figures.

After doing repairs with your own hands, the shoes need to be put in order and taken care of constantly. How to do this is described in a separate chapter.

One simple truth must be remembered: repairing shoes at home lengthens the wear period, which means it saves money in your budget.

Rice. 1. Shoe details:
1 - tongue, 2 - vamp, 3 - sole, 4 - shoulder, 5 - heel, 6 - heel, 7 - back outer strap.

A piece of marble is needed about 150X200 mm in size, so that you can cut pieces of leather on it for patches on the top of the shoes, since the knife will cut into the wooden board (the plane of the knife moves at an acute angle to the board).

Of the tools you need, first of all, a set of knives, tools for sharpening and dressing knives, a hammer, an awl.

An ordinary boot knife is a steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm wide, 2 mm thick. Its blade is an oblique cut at the end of a plate about 45 mm long (Fig. 2).The non-working part of the knife is covered with leather or wrapped with insulating tape.

Rice. 2. An ordinary boot knife.
It is made of steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm chirp, 2 mm thick.

A boot knife is a versatile tool. It is used to cut worn-out parts and their parts from shoes, for example, a worn-out part of a heel or sole, to cut out parts necessary for repairing shoes from a new material: vamp, heels, etc.

In addition to the usual boot knife, two more special ones are needed: one for lowering the edges of leather parts (Fig. 3), the other - for cutting leather on the upper of shoes and lining (Fig. 4). Dimensions of the first: length 150-200, width 10-12, thickness 2 mm, dimensions of the second, respectively - 150-180 mm, 8-12 mm, 2 mm.

Rice. 3. A boot knife for cutting the edges of leather parts.

It is made of steel strip 150-200 mm long, 10-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.

It is made of steel strip 150 - 180 mm long, 8-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.

After sharpening on a block or sharpening stone, the knives must be sharpened in order to remove burrs from the blades. The straightening is usually carried out on a steel rod with a polished surface 200-250 mm long and 8-14 mm thick. The rod must be tempered and magnetized. Ceramic insulating tubes of arbitrary dimensions can also be used. Editing is performed as shown in Fig. 5.

Rice. 5. Editing a boot knife:

A steel rod or an insulating tube is held in my left hand, and a knife - in my right hand, I run the knife blade over the dressing tool from one side or the other until you are sure that the knife has no burrs.

The boot hammer (Fig. 6) has a firing pin with a convex working surface, carefully polished.

Rice. 6. Boot hammer:
1 - striker with a convex, carefully polished surface, 2 - handle, 3 - wedge, 4 - cheeks, 5 - screws for fixing cheeks.

To repair shoes, be sure to stock up on materials. These can be uppers, soles, heels and other details from old shoes. After all, not all parts of the shoe wear out so that they cannot be used for repairs. In addition, if you carefully disassemble old shoes, you can find unworn pieces of leather or leatherette for patches.

Adhesive patches can be your first taste of shoemaking. Or maybe you really will become a good shoemaker! It won't hurt in life. Remember: the great chemist D.I.Mendeleev was a first-class master in the manufacture of suitcases. Leo Tolstoy sewed his own boots.

So how do you make adhesive patches?

Most often, boots or shoes manage to leak in places of folds from cracks caused by careless handling of shoes. Then you can put patches on the top, taken from pieces of chrome or artificial leather, as well as textile materials. With careful selection, you can find patches that are the same in color, pattern, thickness, texture with the surface of the repaired shoes to which you are going to glue them. Then the patch will be invisible.

The coincidence of the patch in shape and size with the place where it is going to be installed is achieved as follows. At the top, around the repaired area, draw a line of the patch border with chalk with an allowance of 6-7 mm along the entire perimeter. The patch should have smooth outlines, without sharp corners and depressions. Most often it is cut in the form of a circle or oval (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Determination of the shape of the patch at the seam and at the edge of the lingering crowbar:
1 - chalk line, 2, 3 - patch and finished parts

The piece of leather selected for the patch is applied with the non-front side to the place to be repaired, smoothed by hand. On the trail of the chalk line, a patch is cut out with scissors, the edges of which are lowered (cut off) with a knife, that is, the non-face side along the entire perimeter. The width of the descent should be equal to the allowance of about 5-7 mm on the patch

Now the section of the top of the shoe where the patch is placed is cleaned with fine sandpaper (sandpaper), dust is removed from it. Instead of a pelt, you can use a file with a fine notch.Pruning is best done on a shoemaking board.

Then glue is applied to the upper of the shoe and the inside of the patch with a brush. Let it dry. Before putting the holes in place, the patch is heated near a heating battery or over an electric heater, but in no case over a burning gas stove - it can easily flare up. After that, it is quickly applied to the top and firmly pressed by hand from the outside and inside, until it adheres firmly to the place. You can use synthetic adhesives made on the basis of synthetic rubbers or synthetic resins, as well as a variety of shoe adhesives, "Moment" and "Phoenix".

When using nitrocellulose glue, which dries quickly, drying and heating are not necessary. The patch with glue is quickly applied and pressed. If the patch is placed at the seam, part of the stitching needs to be ripped up, the threads removed and everything is done as in the previous case. The patch is glued in the same way at the edge of the tightening edge of the top, but it still needs to be reinforced with a thread seam (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Leading a manual seam on old punctures.

If the patch is placed at the seam or at the edge of the lingering edge of the top, then it is better to lead the seam along the old machine punctures. But where they are not, they lead their own hand seam. Threads are used nylon or cotton. It is advisable to rub them with wax, except for the ends. If the threads are nylon, the ends are scorched with a burning match.

The hand stitch is sewn as shown in Figure 9. The first stitch is created by sewing a simple hand-held two-thread stitch. The hand seam should be longer than the outside of the stitching. Its beginning and end come in 2-3 stitches on the outer stitch. The seam is led to completion, where possible - along machine punctures, and the ends of the thread are tied in a knot.

Heels wear out especially quickly. It all depends on how the person walks.

The easiest way to repair a heel.

- The surface of the worn heel is leveled with a boot knife. Sand the cut off place with sandpaper, remove dust from it.

- Choose the material for the heels. It can be a foam rubber plate. Other wear-resistant rubber can also be used. The selected material in size and shape must match the size and shape of the heels.

- Smear the heel and heel with synthetic glue "88" or BF, but best of all with "Moment", dry at room temperature until the solvent evaporates, then warm up the adhesive film before applying to the heel by holding the heel and heel for 1-2 minutes over an electric heating device, for example electric tiles.

- The heel should be pressed against the heel and the connection should be left under load for 30-40 minutes.

- When the heel adheres to the heel, work the side surface with a knife, removing the projections, and sand the heel with sandpaper.

this is not a complete article on shoe repair technology, to be continued.

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Do you like it? Quite different than the shoes from the creative shoe selection post, right?

How exactly - a very detailed master class on converting ordinary boats into the likeness of shoes from the latest Ferragamo collection under the cut:

You will need:

A pair of shoes - for the convenience of work, choose with a more or less sharp toe.
Suitable size chicken foot fabric.
Acrylic glue for fabric or matte varnish for decoupage (for decoupage it is fabrics - in OBi or special departments of handicraft stores, it is found)
A sponge for applying glue, scissors, a lot of patience. Well, it started :-):

Cut out two irregular pentagons to cover your heels.

If the fabric is patterned like a paw or a check - do not forget to make sure that the direction of the pattern on both heels coincides - you do not want to resemble the heroine of the movie "Cabiria Nights" with her plaid jacket and Vivienne Westwood is also unlikely to aim for the place of the queen of checkered asymmetry.

Using a sponge, apply the adhesive over the fabric to the entire surface of the heel, smearing it well only once.

After placing each "detail" on the heel with a triangle up, press - and do not forget to smooth out all the wrinkles.

To make the fabric lie flat, leave the heels in this form to dry. As the glue dries, cut off everything sticking out, leaving a 5 mm margin.

Themselves, while the heels are drying, we are engaged in the toes of the shoes - we also coat them with one, but good, layer of glue. Cut out two large rectangles from the fabric, cut them out, focusing on your shoes - the size will vary depending on your shoe size and depending on the shape of the nose. It is better to cut with a margin - you will always have time to cut off the excess.

Watch the pattern all the time so that it goes in the same direction on both the right and left shoes.

Pressing a piece of fabric in the center against the nose of the shoe, carefully smooth out all fabric gathers by pulling on the fabric. Leave to dry like this.

As soon as the fabric more or less “grabs”, grab it in the area of the toe and cut a small “triangle” there at the point itself - so that later you can bend and glue the fabric in this place. At the same time, try not to disturb the drawing too noticeably.

Now how to glue this sock: add more glue to this place, bend the fabric on both sides at the time of the envelope, so that it overlaps each other, press well and coat with glue again.

Place the remaining fabric loosely over the shoes (so that the pattern matches the socks), then make a small cut in the center. Build it up gradually, all the while making sure you still have enough fabric to cover both sides of the shoe. But so that the hole is large enough so that the fabric can lie well on the sides with it.

Doing each side in turn, coat the sides with glue, press and straighten the fabric, leave it to dry in this form, then just start on the other side.

When everything is dry - the excess fabric can be trimmed - but leave cm 2 for the hem "just in case" for now - including the back seam.

How to make a back seam: first, we glue one side of the protruding fabric to the heel, then, when it dries, the second, overlap, to the first. Alternatively, you can try to bend and glue on each side, which is precisely cut along the real seam, on each side - but this method is more suitable for fabric without a pattern. If you need to combine the drawing, the overlap method is more convenient at times.

Trim off excess fabric around the entire shoe, leaving 4-5 mm in reserve or trimming along the edge of the sole. The author of the master class did this and that - depending on the area of shoes with which she was working at the moment.

Gently smear the edges of the shoe along the edge of the inside, fold the remnants of the fabric there and press down. Leave to dry 🙂 (now you understand why I was talking about patience))?

We still have a noticeable seam between the heel and heel. It must be hidden. To do this, four strips of the same fabric are cut out, no more than 1 cm wide, folded overlapping like an oblique tape, glued (so that later the threads do not stick out anywhere). You can also use just a thinner slanting tape - contrasting, for example. Having smeared well the place under the tape with glue, press the tape there, and its edges - with an overlap - fix the same glue under the heel on the outside of the heel.

As an add. In the options, the author used her own vintage clips - just clip them on in the center of the top edge).

As an old cynic - I must warn you that I personally wash my hands now).

Video (click to play).

I will do this only when there is absolutely no fishy for the dress with the necessary shoes in stores and only with unnecessary shoes. Not only can you not get into them in the rain - I think that dancing, for example, these shoes will not survive either - even if you use rubber, special, shoe glue - they will still lose their plasticity from kinks and in such places the fabric together with glue will snap off.

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