Opel astra g steering rack DIY repair

In detail: opel astra g steering rack do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A new rail at the usual price - in the region of 28-29 thousand. For 19 you can take a restored one. This is NOT a NEW rail, but a remanufactured one. The difference between a new and a restored one is clear, I think.
Post has been edited by Crusher: 09 November 2014 - 00:05

Thank you

No thanks

NikitoSamara 23 Apr 2009

Thank you

No thanks

friend Apr 24, 2009

Quote Questions:
1. Is there a problem with the rail? Could this be a problem somewhere in the steering column (for example, the spider shafts)?
Start simple, it is likely that these are:
- the crosspiece of the intermediate shaft of the steering mechanism;
- loosen the pinch bolt of the intermediate shaft with the input shaft of the steering mechanism
2. If there is a knock in the rail, can you try to eliminate it with the adjusting bolt? (if I understand correctly, then the bolt in the photo is just responsible for the gaps)? Or shouldn't you?
Exactly THIS the bolt should not be pulled, it is responsible for the axial movement of the input shaft of the steering mechanism and provides a preload of the tapered shaft bearing (as on the "classic" hub). As a rule, it is a problem-free connection and you should not climb there. If there is a keen desire to tighten the pairing in a pair of "rail - steering shaft" - I will write it in a personal, too long and dreary.
3. How long will it live at least approximately? no leaks.
The knock must be removed. I think there is no direct connection with the leak, but the increase in wear in the pair will progress

Tanoss 09 May 2007

SinoMZ 10 May 2007

Lordi 10 May 2007

Tanoss 11 May 2007

Tanoss, so minya on the guarantee. They remembered me in a way.

The warranty was removed. She is no longer in stock. I can't drive a stock car.

And when braking, is there some kind of vibration?
Do not adjust the rail under any circumstances!

Video (click to play).

No vibration! Nothing knocks at speed! Only when cornering on the spot! At the service, they load me onto a new rail. Is it regulated at all?

SinoMZ 11 May 2007

The warranty was removed. She is no longer in stock. I can't drive a stock car.
No vibration! Nothing knocks at speed! Only when cornering on the spot! At the service, they load me onto a new rail. Is it regulated at all?

Generally, it is regulated by an adjusting nut, mating on the teeth, but there are a lot of different but.
since the rail can knock not only on the teeth but also due to broken support bushings
Modified: SinoMZ, 11 May 2007 - 16:07

PP wear signs
1. When braking, the car drives to the right or left
2. When the car is running at low speed, there is a backlash when driving
3. When cornering, knocking accompanied by steering vibrations

If it cracks when turning in place - this is a thrust bearing!
Check if the rail is flowing (by level) or visually the liquid is collecting on the pallet.

P.S.
If anyone changed the rake, give a financial report plc.

SinoMZ 11 May 2007

PP wear signs
1. When braking, the car drives to the right or left

With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it

Tanoss 11 May 2007

I have seen rips - when turning the steering wheel in place (without moving), or at a very low speed and a large eversion of the steering wheel, especially in winter. it seems to be not observed now
but on services like Fortune, as well as on KHRP and Stolichka, they said that there were no problems with the helmsman

Climbed on an Internet. for self-education. everywhere they say that the rail is not adjustable and the minimum backlash is acceptable. Hard to believe. The mileage is too low.

With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it

I agree that in this case the rake has nothing to do with it.

With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it

Moreover! that with a broken rail under load, namely braking, a positive toe is formed, and when braking, depending on which caliso is to the right or to the left, it looks in that direction and leads. At the same time, the car pulls so weakly that you can not feel this on the standard suspension, except that the rail is full of 3.14 zdets.
Modified: solomon, May 11, 2007 - 16:38

Tanoss 11 May 2007

PP wear signs
1. When braking, the car drives to the right or left
2. When the car is running at low speed, there is a backlash when driving
3.Knocking when cornering, accompanied by steering vibrations

If it cracks when turning in place - this is a thrust bearing!
Check if the rail is flowing (by level) or visually the liquid is collecting on the pallet.

P.S.
If anyone changed the rake, give a financial report plc.

The new rail costs 7000gr. kick-ass.

I agree with such a run it is too early for the rail to be.

7000 is a power steering I hope.

Tanoss 11 May 2007

Guys! 30,000 mileage! I had 250,000 km on my previous Kadett E car! There were no knocks! I only changed the nylon bushing.

I agree with such a run it is too early for the rail to be.

7000 is a power steering I hope.

CCC! Complete set and set.

Generally, it is regulated by an adjusting nut, mating on the teeth, but there are a lot of different but.
since the rail can knock not only on the teeth but also due to broken support bushings

I don’t sin on the bushings. It knocks in the area of the worm.

SinoMZ 11 May 2007

I just changed the tie rods and tips all at once and nothing knocks

Don't tell me, the option is real. My car was tested at two service stations, guys whom I trust. They said that everything was OK on the hoist, but at low speed there were knocks on the potholes. There is nothing more except the rail.

Sasha_on_Astra, +1, I also have a cheap delivery and a guarantee to steer

I think it’s okay to re-read the guarantee agreement and deliver the “beer” to the guarantor.

Sasha_on_Astra, +1, I also have a cheap delivery and a guarantee to steer

I think it’s okay to re-read the guarantee agreement and deliver the “beer” to the guarantor.

Although if TO1 and 2 did not pass, then everything is clear

NaZaR-Lviv 30 March 2009

here I also have something knocking at low speed, the rail has been pulled up by a third of a turn.

here I also have something knocking at low speed, the rail has been pulled up by a third of a turn.
expected effect 0

It means that they were in vain.
If something knocks in the front suspension of the Astra-G when driving through irregularities at low speeds, then in 95% of cases the stabilizer struts are to blame.

Kudinnw 30 March 2009

It means that they were in vain.
If something knocks in the front suspension of the Astra-G when driving through irregularities at low speeds, then in 95% of cases the stabilizer struts are to blame.

I remember the stack of racks very well. Native knocked after a rainstorm at 95t.km, put a sax with all real holograms, knocked the left after 3t.km, (without holes) right after this winter and only on an unheated suspension (gas came out)
I bought GM, but I wait until the roads are leveled by bulldozers, if the car does not fall apart
Changed: KIRISHA, 30 March 2009 - 21:48

NaZaR-Lviv 31 March 2009

It means that they were in vain.
If something knocks in the front suspension of the Astra-G when driving through irregularities at low speeds, then in 95% of cases the stabilizer struts are to blame.

I have included stabilizer racks. I have replaced
Changed: NaZaR-Lviv, 31 March 2009 - 07:49

ViCo2 31 March 2009

So, at low speed, on potholes, there is a knock on the steering wheel!
If you firmly grip the steering wheel with your hands 🙂 there is no knocking !!

First master: - Tightening the steering (with a small bolt) - the result is 0.
Second master: - cardan shaft. I changed, the knock remained (it became a little less, IMHO the cardan is new)
Third master: - Replacement of the steering rack. - changed today 🙂 (do not ask the price) KNOCK REMAINED.

All that remains is the column itself - there is nothing more to change! So that's it.

So, at low speed, on potholes, there is a knock on the steering wheel!
If you firmly grip the steering wheel with your hands 🙂 there is no knocking !!
Press down to the bottom.

All that remains is the column itself - there is nothing more to change! So that's it.

Have you looked at the bulbs themselves with the steering tips? which are screwed into the rail
Because of the rubber band of the stabilizer (20gr), they changed the floor of the chassis, (there were only racks and levers with cylinders), but the rubber band itself was not changed, they demanded that the racks be changed, they sent them to the shake (well, for other people's money, you can experiment by poking parts + work).
Wait before you go to the master to climb under the car himself.

Vladimir Dubyk 01 April 2009

It means that they were in vain.
If something knocks in the front suspension of the Astra-G when driving through irregularities at low speeds, then in 95% of cases the stabilizer struts are to blame.

+ 1
There were the same symptoms as the author. An intelligent master - a friend of mine diagnosed the car and said that when my car ran 200,000 km, there was no need to turn the rail adjustment, but the problem was in the rubber bands of the stabilizer and the rods. Changing the rods is not a tricky thing, but without replacing the rubber bands - it’s good - 0. Replacing the rubber bands is a gem, you need to let go of the stretcher - otherwise you won’t crawl. At a cost - rods and elastic bands - 270 UAH. Replacement work - 150 UAH.
I was pleased with the result.

Tanoss 09 June 2009

Under the guarantee, they changed nemeryannom and rails and speakers. The time of the appearance of the defect (knocking underfoot) is usually the first 50 thousand.
"Raw", ill-conceived mechanism. This is according to the servicemen. The first victims are drivers accustomed to twisting the steering wheel in place. This absolutely must not be done! The electric power steering is activated according to the speed. More speed means less driving force. The biggest load is when parking and turning on the spot. The Germans advise not to overload the amplifier and do it all on the move. The owners of these cars will confirm that at a speed of over 100 the steering wheel becomes noticeably heavier, as if limiting in maneuver and is stable in the “zero” position, which allows it to even be almost released without yawing and leaving the car from the lane. This is useful on long, high-speed journeys on the Autobahn. And when riding in first gear, it's deceptively light.

Why immediately a replacement?
Can't be repaired under service conditions?
Okay, the Germans are not a lordly thing
And we have? Bummer. or it's easier to put a new one, of course it's easier, why fool your head, we will soon come to replace the front and rear of the car.
Thermostat, so with a housing, a wheel bearing with a hub, the air conditioner is just new, etc., for a German, prices are still normal, but for us these prices are in euros

zx1812 10 June 2009

Electric power steering

I will correct a little: The author has electrohydro on the aster.
I agree that it is bad form to oil the steering wheel on the spot, if there is no urgent need for it. Turn only with the wheels rotating.

Removal and installation in place of assembly of the steering mechanism

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and place it away from the terminal.

3. To access the steering gear, loosen the retaining bolt and slide the engine oil filler neck / dipstick tube aside.

4. On the power steering pump, clean the area around the supply hose fitting. Disconnect the hose union nut from the pump body, then plug the port on the pump body and the end of the hose to prevent dirt from entering the system.

5. In the footwell on the driver's side of the car, remove the soundproofing panel from under the front panel ("dashboard").

6. Fold back the mat to expose the rubber boot at the base of the intermediate steering column. Fold the cowl back and remove the lower pinch bolt from the U-joint. At the point where the intermediate shaft connects to the upper steering column shaft, disconnect the lower pinch bolt from the universal joint. Remove the intermediate shaft from under the front panel ("dashboard").

7. At the point where the steering rack shaft protrudes from the bulkhead, remove the retaining screws from the concave metal cover plate and lift the cover off by removing the gasket, oil seal and rubber grommet. Inspect the gasket for signs of wear or damage and replace if necessary.

8. Remove the decorative wheel caps and loosen the wheel bolts. Cock the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car, installing it on the axle supports and remove the front wheels (refer to Section Jacking, towing and wheel change).

9. Remove the rear section of the locker of the arch of the right wheel (see the Head Body works).

10.Disconnect the tips of the steering rods from the steering knuckles of the steering system (refer to Section Removing and reinstalling the tips of the steering rods).

11. Where available, disconnect the upper subframe mounting bolt to the wheel arch thrust bar.

14. Pull down the free ends of the previously disconnected hydraulic hoses, then remove the steering rack from the support points and remove it through the right wheel arch, while, in order to avoid them snagging on the rack, move the wiring harnesses aside.

Do not tighten the locknuts until the wheel alignment has been checked.

Installation of the steering gear in place can be carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following points:

b) Make sure that the steering rack mounting bolts are tightened to the required torque.

c) When installing new tie rod ends, make sure they are adjusted to the same length as the old tie rods measured before removal.

d) Observing the required tightening forces, connect the tips of the steering rods to the steering knuckles of the steering system (refer to Section Removal and installation of the tips of the steering rods).

f) Tighten the steering column intermediate shaft universal joint pinch bolts with the required force.

f) Fill and pump the hydraulic system using the fluid of the required grade (refer to Section Emptying, filling and bleeding the power steering system).

g) Connect the negative battery cable and start the engine, then check the steering system.

h) Check the toe-in of the wheels, if necessary, make the adjustment (Section Adjusting the angles of the wheels - general information). Finally, tighten the steering link locknuts.

i) Perform a final check that all hose fittings are securely fastened during operation, then recheck the fluid level in the reservoir.

Watch an interesting video on this topic

Although if there is a burning smell, then most likely oil flows through the oil seal in the egura pump. See if there are any pads on the rail boot yet. If there are no leaks, then most likely a pump.The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam. And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness Image - Opel astra g steering rack DIY repair

The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam. And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness

And if, after all, there is an oil seal, can it only be changed or the pump assembly changes immediately?

1. Remove the oil tank cap

2. Fill with special oil up to the upper mark on the dipstick in the oil tank
Indication: To avoid overfilling with oil, reattach the dipstick cap to the reservoir and remove it to check the oil level.

3. Install the cap on the oil tank

Read also: DIY gas tank filler repair

4. Remove air from the electro-hydraulic power unit by starting and stopping the engine three times
Indication: Before each next start, make a short pause.

5. Start the engine and, with the engine running, bleed the air by turning the steering control from left to right three times until it stops.

In the original, the rem for Astra looks like this:

1 F-00358 Oil seal 29.00 / 43.00 * 7.00 type 0M pcs. 1,000
2 F-00558 Oil seal 20.00 / 30.20 * 5.00 / 6.00 type 1PM pcs. 1,000
3 M-01301 Teflon ring O35.6 × 38.2 S2 type 1 pc. 4,000
4 L-10014 Steering rack bushing with power steering 24.00 / 26.00 / 35.00 * 2.50 / 13.70 type 5B pcs. 1,000
5 F-00231 Oil seal 24.00 / 41.00 * 8.50 type 7V 1 pc. 2,000
6 O-02620-MSG Rubber O-ring C1,5 d1 31 pcs. 4,000
7 O-02930-MSG Rubber O-ring C3 d1 31 pcs. 1,000
8 O-02004-MSG Rubber ring O-section C1.68 d1 5.41 pcs. 4,000

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the steering pump, release the harness from the intermediate clips on the subframe - try to remember the correct routing of the wires.
Loosen the retaining nuts and remove the steering pump assembly with reservoir and hydraulic lines from the subframe / steering housing.

The TRW pump has a round tank, the Delphi / Saginaw pump has an angular one.

Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the steering gear from the subframe - if necessary, first remove the anti-roll bar bar (see Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar).

Manufacturers recommend that all mounting bolts be replaced without fail.

The spare parts market is supplied with steering pumps as assembled with rods, and without the latter.

Remove the rubber seals from the shaft.

Install the tie rods with tips (see Removing and installing the tie rods and Removing and installing the tie rods) - do not forget to fit the rubber seals on the shaft.
Thoroughly wipe the mating surfaces of the steering box and subframe. Install the steering gear in its original place. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the required torque.
If removed, reinstall the anti-roll bar bar (see Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar).
Replace the steering pump assembly with hydraulic reservoir and connecting lines. Screw on the retaining nuts and tighten them to the required torque.
Restore the original wiring connections, - secure the harness in the intermediate clips on the subframe.
Place new rubber o-rings on the hydraulic pipes and connect the latter to the steering box. Tighten the union nuts of the unions with the required torque.
If equipped, refit the hydraulic line / hose support on the subframe. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the required torque.
Install the power unit rear support bracket on the subframe, tighten the fasteners to the required torque.
Install the front subframe to the vehicle (see Removing and Installing Front Subframe).
Having pumped the power steering system, remove air plugs from its path (see. Removing air from the power steering hydraulic path).
As soon as possible, take the car to a specialized auto service workshop to check and adjust the front toe-in.

The steering rack knocked, it does not flow, What to do. A knock occurs when the left wheel hits a bump. when the right one hits a bump, there is no knocking. tips, stub racks are 100% intact.

Rәmis (Andoni) exactly rake? can the midfielder knocks.

Andrey (Jerrilinn) Exactly exactly)))

Vladimir (Leinani) My shock absorber was knocking, the piston itself was backlash.

German (Misbah) or stabilizer knocks

Alexey (Manda) The stabilizer knocked on me like that, and the rail just recently leaked and then in a day all the oil was gone, changed to trw

German (Misbah) I had the same thing ((((

Mayya (Bertrom) What is the car's mileage?

Mayya (Bertrom) Rake is unlikely on this run! Look at the suspension! Maybe a stabilizer bush!

Dmitry (Demeter) stabilizer, ball, if the reiki knocks, it knocks in all directions

Anton (Agon) Guys, what could be the problem, when turning the steering wheel, in both directions, in motion and on the spot, there is at a certain moment some click or knock, and at a certain moment, who collided.

Antosha (Berenice) Anton, maybe a thrust bearing.

Alexander (Shoshanah) Opornik 100%

Anton (Agon) but for the very stupid, what is this defensive midfielder? it is expensive?

Dmitry (Demeter) Anton, are you talking about yourself or what? Self-critical however ..

Andrey (Jerrilinn) As a result, this is a rail, everything flowed out of it, the support sleeve in the rail broke, dismantled the rail there the shaft is crooked and rusty. pzdts full

Vyacheslav (Josephus) Tell the people what kind of slurry to pour into the power steering?

Hello everyone. The boot lid does not open. All doors open. What can. Be

Eler (Giulia) Normal working center castle

Alexander (Madeg) The solenoid is electric, pulls the door opening pull. If he clicks, then he is fucked.

Dim (Edzard) No clicks. Maybe just stuck.

Dim (Edzard) And if the cranks, then how much for the money

Alexander (Madeg) can be universal, but you need to have some skills. rubles 500

Alexander (Madeg) or find it on disassembly

Alexander (Madeg) I will not tell you the price tag

ferle (Jogesa) Look at the wiring in the corrugation on the trunk - it breaks there (disease)

Alexander (Madeg) By the way, yes it happens)))

ferle (Jogesa) It was like that in my back door. He took off the corrugation and there more than half of the wires were broken. Because the wires do not slide in the corrugation but are bent. You must then lubricate the inside with silicone

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Bravo, this brilliant phrase will come in handy

I agree, a very useful phrase

In my opinion, you are wrong. I'm sure. I propose to discuss it. Email me at PM, we'll talk.

Are you here »Subaru TRAVIQ» Other »Steering rack disassembly Subaru TRAVIQ / Opel Astra G / Opel Zafira A

This is how I got the rake from Astra G.

And this is the already disassembled STCH rail

First, we climb and disassemble what is easier.
1. The upper retaining ring is squeezed and pulled out.

Another important detail. The rack shaft itself is held on one side by a bushing with oil seals. This sleeve is held in the housing by a very tight retaining ring. no matter how I tried to dig it out, it did not work. On the advice of colleagues from the forum> I drilled a hole with a diameter of about 2 mm in the copus opposite the retaining ring. It is important to accurately measure the distance from the edge of the rail body to the notch under the stopper. Pressing a strong metal rod with a diameter of 2 mm on the ring, we take it out of the groove and then turning the ring 90 degrees relative to the groove, we calmly pull it out.

After the retaining ring, we take out the bushing with the rail shaft oil seal inside and a small oil seal outside.

The main positive difference from the TRW Opel Astra rail is the presence of this 19 nut cover. Before unscrewing, I strongly advise you to heat the lid very much. According to experts, the lid sits on the varnish. It is impossible to unscrew it impassively without heating. Or how it rips off the edges of soft aluminum.

Behind the cap you will see a nut on the shaft, behind the nut - this is a ball bearing.

One outer working surface of the rack shaft is corroded.
The shaft will have to go through the procedure of leveling, centering, grinding by 0.1-0.15 mm, spraying a layer of babbitt, chrome plating (copper-nickel-chromium, 20 microns thick)
Currently, I have found only two places that actually have such an opportunity.
The cost of this work is 3,500 rubles. But for this money I get a really very good shaft (I saw two samples of restored rails from AUDI and Volkswagen).

While there is not much money, I twice tried to restore the rail at two Omsk factories in this way through ties and connections. Unfortunately, only sanding and chrome plating was offered.

The rack shaft teeth are in excellent condition.

Pulling out the shafts, we get this top view. (bearing is visible from below)

The mechanism of the car, which serves to control the steering traction of the wheels, is called the steering rack. The steering rack of the Opel Astra h is no exception. This device transmits the driver's effort to the front wheels of the car, forcing them to move synchronously in the right direction and ensuring the correct movement of the car when cornering. The pictures below show the Opel Astra h steering rack and a diagram of the device.

The mechanism operates in several stages:
- I - rotary device rotates shaft # 27;
- II - the rotation is transferred to part # 21;
- III - part # 21 moves the toothed rack (# 16) inside the device body (# 17);
- IV - No. 16 moves the steering rods No. 5 and No. 7;
- V - steering rods move the levers (No. 3) of the wheels.
Let's say a few words about power steering in a separate line. The machines use these devices of two types:

Power steering wheel (hereinafter referred to as GU) basically works by transferring power from the engine to the gear rack through a hydraulic device.It is a pump that creates pressure in the HU system. Operates when the engine is running.

Valves on the shaft allow oil to pass through the oil lines. Where the oil goes depends on the steering side. This scheme ensures that the wheels turn in the desired direction without unnecessary effort.
Malfunctions of a steering wheel with PG can be in:
- pump
- distributor valves
- cylinder piston system
- cylinder seals
- drive belt
Read also: DIY blower repair
The electric motor makes the gear rotate. She moves the toothed shaft. The direction of rotation sensors send a corresponding signal to the control unit. The motor, in accordance with the received signal, moves the rail in the desired direction.
An electric booster (hereinafter referred to as EU) is a rather reliable device of a machine, but breakdowns occur in it too. For example, they can:
- programs crash
- fail the rotary encoder
Unlike a GU, an electric amplifier can work without turning on the engine. The structure of the mechanism is shown in Figure 4.

It is best to repair the steering wheel at a reputable maintenance station, do not contact private traders, so as not to spoil the part completely.

For example, to find out if play is a deviation from the norm, you need to know the standard embedded in the part. Usually this figure is equal to 9-10 degrees. To measure it, you need a special device - a backlash. If you do not have one, contact the service station.

As soon as the driver feels that he has to increase the load on the steering wheel when cornering, it's time to contact a car service.
The knock and hum in the mechanism should become an alarm bell.
One hundred percent sign of the need to visit a car service is a leaking working fluid.
Backlash during wheel movement occurs on both mechanical and hydraulic drives.

The gear and toothed base are the most stressed in the steering rack. Most breakdowns happen with this part of the unit. Among the most common breakdown options, there are:
- Tie rod end wear
- tooth wear
- mechanical destruction of teeth
Usually, the last two problems are eliminated by adjusting the nut that controls the stop.
If the teeth themselves are broken, you need to change either the rack or gear.
In case of wear of parts, the master simply replaces them.

Backlash is formed due to poor quality road surface, which we all have to put up with. Driving through obstacles in the form of "speed bumps", concrete joints and other irregularities has a detrimental effect on the function of the steering rack Opel Astra h. Driving style is also not the least factor.

After 10-15 years of operation, almost every car has difficulties with steering. Foreign manufacturers give an unambiguous recommendation to their customers: replace the device.

But it is not always possible to find the necessary "native" detail. Therefore, in order to eliminate the backlash on the steering wheel, a "tightening" of the mechanism is often used. But, doing it, you need to remember that the resource of the reducer is not infinite.

If there is a backlash (gap) in the engagement of the steering rack, you need to use the pressure springs.
The steering rack of a car is adjusted in order to eliminate all gaps in the mechanism, so that the car easily and clearly obeys the driver's effort.
Usually at the service station, the masters tighten the steering rack and lubricate it.
There are two ways to adjust:

To eliminate the gap, which turned out to be above the standard deviation rate, you need to adjust the auto gear mechanism - tighten the required screw in the steering rack end cover. To carry out this manipulation, an overpass is used. If not, you can jack the car up.
Having made a mark, the master will remove the locknut. Using a key for 18, the device is slightly squeezed. The main thing is to do it slowly, without sudden movements - first by 15–20 degrees, after which the operation of the steering is checked. If the result is unsatisfactory, the manipulation is repeated.
After the end of the "tightening" the car must be tested in motion. If everything is done correctly, then the knocking in the mechanism will disappear, and the steering wheel will give in smoothly.

To repair the steering rack in Opel Astra h is best done by professionals working in car services.
The masters of our service station will correctly diagnose the breakdown and promptly eliminate the malfunction. Based on the results of the diagnosis, a decision is made on what exactly needs to be done:
- restore the device at a special stand
- replace
Carrying out repair work, the foremen will perform the following actions:
- - completely disassemble the unit
  - check the shaft for corrosion, runout
  - assess the condition of the gear clutch, seals and oil seals
  - appreciate the condition of the hull
  After repair, the rail is installed on a special stand that simulates control. This procedure makes it possible to understand how well the work was carried out, what is the function of the part after restoration.
  If the master is satisfied and has not found any defects, then the device is put into the car.
  
  The specialists of our car service will definitely replace the fluid in the hydraulic booster, if necessary, they will pump the system. After the parts are replaced, the employees will also establish the wheel alignment angles.
  
  There are many nuances and pitfalls in the operation of a car. And only regular monitoring of the technical condition of the iron horse will help to extend its service life. Control of the functionality of the main parts will provide the driver and passengers with safety while driving. In the Opel Astra, the steering rack is responsible for the reliability of steering wheel control when cornering. And it is impossible to treat the issue of its functioning carelessly.
  At the slightest suspicion of a malfunction, immediately drive the car to the service station to the specialists who will help you solve the problem even before it leads to a tragedy on the road.
  
  Video (click to play).