Quote Questions: 2. If there is a knock in the rail, can you try to eliminate it with the adjusting bolt? (if I understand correctly, then the bolt in the photo is just responsible for the gaps)? Or shouldn't you? THIS the bolt should not be pulled, it is responsible for the axial movement of the input shaft of the steering mechanism and provides a preload of the tapered shaft bearing (as on the "classic" hub). As a rule, it is a problem-free connection and you should not climb there. If there is a keen desire to tighten the pairing in a pair of "rail - steering shaft" - I will write it in a personal, too long and dreary. 3. How long will it live at least approximately? no leaks.
Tanoss , so minya on the guarantee. They remembered me in a way.
The warranty was removed. She is no longer in stock. I can't drive a stock car.
And when braking, is there some kind of vibration?Do not adjust the rail under any circumstances!
Video (click to play).
No vibration! Nothing knocks at speed! Only when cornering on the spot! At the service, they load me onto a new rail. Is it regulated at all?
The warranty was removed. She is no longer in stock. I can't drive a stock car.
Generally, it is regulated by an adjusting nut, mating on the teeth, but there are a lot of different but. Modified: SinoMZ, 11 May 2007 - 16:07
PP wear signs
If it cracks when turning in place - this is a thrust bearing!
P.S.
PP wear signs
With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it
I have seen rips - when turning the steering wheel in place (without moving), or at a very low speed and a large eversion of the steering wheel, especially in winter. it seems to be not observed now
Climbed on an Internet. for self-education. everywhere they say that the rail is not adjustable and the minimum backlash is acceptable. Hard to believe. The mileage is too low.
With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it
I agree that in this case the rake has nothing to do with it.
With this statement is not acclaimed, the steering rack has nothing to do with it
Moreover! that with a broken rail under load, namely braking, a positive toe is formed, and when braking, depending on which caliso is to the right or to the left, it looks in that direction and leads. At the same time, the car pulls so weakly that you can not feel this on the standard suspension, except that the rail is full of 3.14 zdets. Modified: solomon, May 11, 2007 - 16:38
PP wear signs
If it cracks when turning in place - this is a thrust bearing!
P.S.
The new rail costs 7000gr. kick-ass.
I agree with such a run it is too early for the rail to be.
7000 is a power steering I hope.
Guys! 30,000 mileage! I had 250,000 km on my previous Kadett E car! There were no knocks! I only changed the nylon bushing.
I agree with such a run it is too early for the rail to be.
7000 is a power steering I hope.
CCC! Complete set and set.
Generally, it is regulated by an adjusting nut, mating on the teeth, but there are a lot of different but.
I don’t sin on the bushings. It knocks in the area of the worm.
I just changed the tie rods and tips all at once and nothing knocks
Don't tell me, the option is real. My car was tested at two service stations, guys whom I trust. They said that everything was OK on the hoist, but at low speed there were knocks on the potholes. There is nothing more except the rail.
Sasha_on_Astra , +1, I also have a cheap delivery and a guarantee to steer
I think it’s okay to re-read the guarantee agreement and deliver the “beer” to the guarantor.
Sasha_on_Astra , +1, I also have a cheap delivery and a guarantee to steer
I think it’s okay to re-read the guarantee agreement and deliver the “beer” to the guarantor.
Although if TO1 and 2 did not pass, then everything is clear
Don't tell me, the option is real. My car was tested at two service stations, guys whom I trust. They said that everything was OK on the hoist, but at low speed there were knocks on the potholes. There is nothing more except the rail.
here I also have something knocking at low speed, the rail has been pulled up by a third of a turn.
here I also have something knocking at low speed, the rail has been pulled up by a third of a turn.
It means that they were in vain.
It means that they were in vain.
I remember the stack of racks very well. Native knocked after a rainstorm at 95t.km, put a sax with all real holograms, knocked the left after 3t.km, (without holes) right after this winter and only on an unheated suspension (gas came out)Changed: KIRISHA, 30 March 2009 - 21:48
It means that they were in vain.
I have included stabilizer racks. I have replaced Changed: NaZaR-Lviv, 31 March 2009 - 07:49
So, at low speed, on potholes, there is a knock on the steering wheel!
First master: - Tightening the steering (with a small bolt) - the result is 0.
All that remains is the column itself - there is nothing more to change! So that's it.
So, at low speed, on potholes, there is a knock on the steering wheel!
First master: - Tightening the steering (with a small bolt) - the result is 0.
All that remains is the column itself - there is nothing more to change! So that's it.
Have you looked at the bulbs themselves with the steering tips? which are screwed into the rail
It means that they were in vain.
+ 1
Under the guarantee, they changed nemeryannom and rails and speakers. The time of the appearance of the defect (knocking underfoot) is usually the first 50 thousand.
Why immediately a replacement?
Electric power steering
I will correct a little: The author has electrohydro on the aster.
Removal and installation in place of assembly of the steering mechanism
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and place it away from the terminal.
3. To access the steering gear, loosen the retaining bolt and slide the engine oil filler neck / dipstick tube aside.
4. On the power steering pump, clean the area around the supply hose fitting. Disconnect the hose union nut from the pump body, then plug the port on the pump body and the end of the hose to prevent dirt from entering the system.
VIDEO 5. In the footwell on the driver's side of the car, remove the soundproofing panel from under the front panel ("dashboard").
6. Fold back the mat to expose the rubber boot at the base of the intermediate steering column. Fold the cowl back and remove the lower pinch bolt from the U-joint. At the point where the intermediate shaft connects to the upper steering column shaft, disconnect the lower pinch bolt from the universal joint. Remove the intermediate shaft from under the front panel ("dashboard").
7. At the point where the steering rack shaft protrudes from the bulkhead, remove the retaining screws from the concave metal cover plate and lift the cover off by removing the gasket, oil seal and rubber grommet. Inspect the gasket for signs of wear or damage and replace if necessary.
8. Remove the decorative wheel caps and loosen the wheel bolts. Cock the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car, installing it on the axle supports and remove the front wheels (refer to Section Jacking, towing and wheel change).
9. Remove the rear section of the locker of the arch of the right wheel (see the Head Body works).
10.Disconnect the tips of the steering rods from the steering knuckles of the steering system (refer to Section Removing and reinstalling the tips of the steering rods).
11. Where available, disconnect the upper subframe mounting bolt to the wheel arch thrust bar.
14. Pull down the free ends of the previously disconnected hydraulic hoses, then remove the steering rack from the support points and remove it through the right wheel arch, while, in order to avoid them snagging on the rack, move the wiring harnesses aside.
Do not tighten the locknuts until the wheel alignment has been checked.
Installation of the steering gear in place can be carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following points:
b) Make sure that the steering rack mounting bolts are tightened to the required torque.
c) When installing new tie rod ends, make sure they are adjusted to the same length as the old tie rods measured before removal.
d) Observing the required tightening forces, connect the tips of the steering rods to the steering knuckles of the steering system (refer to Section Removal and installation of the tips of the steering rods).
f) Tighten the steering column intermediate shaft universal joint pinch bolts with the required force.
f) Fill and pump the hydraulic system using the fluid of the required grade (refer to Section Emptying, filling and bleeding the power steering system).
g) Connect the negative battery cable and start the engine, then check the steering system.
h) Check the toe-in of the wheels, if necessary, make the adjustment (Section Adjusting the angles of the wheels - general information). Finally, tighten the steering link locknuts.
i) Perform a final check that all hose fittings are securely fastened during operation, then recheck the fluid level in the reservoir.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
VIDEO
Although if there is a burning smell, then most likely oil flows through the oil seal in the egura pump. See if there are any pads on the rail boot yet. If there are no leaks, then most likely a pump.
The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam. And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness
Although if there is a burning smell, then most likely oil flows through the oil seal in the egura pump. See if there are any pads on the rail boot yet. If there are no leaks, then most likely a pump.
The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam. And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness
And if, after all, there is an oil seal, can it only be changed or the pump assembly changes immediately?
1. Remove the oil tank cap
2. Fill with special oil up to the upper mark on the dipstick in the oil tank Indication: To avoid overfilling with oil, reattach the dipstick cap to the reservoir and remove it to check the oil level.
3. Install the cap on the oil tank
4. Remove air from the electro-hydraulic power unit by starting and stopping the engine three times Indication: Before each next start, make a short pause.
5. Start the engine and, with the engine running, bleed the air by turning the steering control from left to right three times until it stops.
In the original, the rem for Astra looks like this:
1 F-00358 Oil seal 29.00 / 43.00 * 7.00 type 0M pcs. 1,000
Disconnect the electrical wiring from the steering pump, release the harness from the intermediate clips on the subframe - try to remember the correct routing of the wires.
Loosen the retaining nuts and remove the steering pump assembly with reservoir and hydraulic lines from the subframe / steering housing.
The TRW pump has a round tank, the Delphi / Saginaw pump has an angular one.
Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the steering gear from the subframe - if necessary, first remove the anti-roll bar bar (see Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar).
Manufacturers recommend that all mounting bolts be replaced without fail.
The spare parts market is supplied with steering pumps as assembled with rods, and without the latter.
Remove the rubber seals from the shaft.
Install the tie rods with tips (see Removing and installing the tie rods and Removing and installing the tie rods) - do not forget to fit the rubber seals on the shaft.
Thoroughly wipe the mating surfaces of the steering box and subframe. Install the steering gear in its original place. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the required torque.
If removed, reinstall the anti-roll bar bar (see Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar).
Replace the steering pump assembly with hydraulic reservoir and connecting lines. Screw on the retaining nuts and tighten them to the required torque.
Restore the original wiring connections, - secure the harness in the intermediate clips on the subframe.
Place new rubber o-rings on the hydraulic pipes and connect the latter to the steering box. Tighten the union nuts of the unions with the required torque.
If equipped, refit the hydraulic line / hose support on the subframe. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the required torque.
Install the power unit rear support bracket on the subframe, tighten the fasteners to the required torque.
Install the front subframe to the vehicle (see Removing and Installing Front Subframe).
Having pumped the power steering system, remove air plugs from its path (see. Removing air from the power steering hydraulic path).
As soon as possible, take the car to a specialized auto service workshop to check and adjust the front toe-in.
The steering rack knocked, it does not flow, What to do. A knock occurs when the left wheel hits a bump. when the right one hits a bump, there is no knocking. tips, stub racks are 100% intact.
Rәmis (Andoni) exactly rake? can the midfielder knocks.
Andrey (Jerrilinn) Exactly exactly)))
Vladimir (Leinani) My shock absorber was knocking, the piston itself was backlash.
German (Misbah) or stabilizer knocks
Alexey (Manda) The stabilizer knocked on me like that, and the rail just recently leaked and then in a day all the oil was gone, changed to trw
German (Misbah) I had the same thing ((((
Mayya (Bertrom) What is the car's mileage?
Mayya (Bertrom) Rake is unlikely on this run! Look at the suspension! Maybe a stabilizer bush!
Dmitry (Demeter) stabilizer, ball, if the reiki knocks, it knocks in all directions
Anton (Agon) Guys, what could be the problem, when turning the steering wheel, in both directions, in motion and on the spot, there is at a certain moment some click or knock, and at a certain moment, who collided.
Antosha (Berenice) Anton, maybe a thrust bearing.
Alexander (Shoshanah) Opornik 100%
Anton (Agon) but for the very stupid, what is this defensive midfielder? it is expensive?
Dmitry (Demeter) Anton, are you talking about yourself or what? Self-critical however ..
Andrey (Jerrilinn) As a result, this is a rail, everything flowed out of it, the support sleeve in the rail broke, dismantled the rail there the shaft is crooked and rusty. pzdts full
Vyacheslav (Josephus) Tell the people what kind of slurry to pour into the power steering?
VIDEO
Hello everyone. The boot lid does not open. All doors open. What can. Be
Eler (Giulia) Normal working center castle
Alexander (Madeg) The solenoid is electric, pulls the door opening pull. If he clicks, then he is fucked.
Dim (Edzard) No clicks. Maybe just stuck.
Dim (Edzard) And if the cranks, then how much for the money
Alexander (Madeg) can be universal, but you need to have some skills. rubles 500
Alexander (Madeg) or find it on disassembly
Alexander (Madeg) I will not tell you the price tag
ferle (Jogesa) Look at the wiring in the corrugation on the trunk - it breaks there (disease)
Alexander (Madeg) By the way, yes it happens)))
ferle (Jogesa) It was like that in my back door. He took off the corrugation and there more than half of the wires were broken. Because the wires do not slide in the corrugation but are bent. You must then lubricate the inside with silicone
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Bravo, this brilliant phrase will come in handy
I agree, a very useful phrase
In my opinion, you are wrong. I'm sure. I propose to discuss it. Email me at PM, we'll talk.
Are you here »Subaru TRAVIQ» Other »Steering rack disassembly Subaru TRAVIQ / Opel Astra G / Opel Zafira A
This is how I got the rake from Astra G.
And this is the already disassembled STCH rail
First, we climb and disassemble what is easier.
Another important detail. The rack shaft itself is held on one side by a bushing with oil seals. This sleeve is held in the housing by a very tight retaining ring. no matter how I tried to dig it out, it did not work. On the advice of colleagues from the forum> I drilled a hole with a diameter of about 2 mm in the copus opposite the retaining ring. It is important to accurately measure the distance from the edge of the rail body to the notch under the stopper. Pressing a strong metal rod with a diameter of 2 mm on the ring, we take it out of the groove and then turning the ring 90 degrees relative to the groove, we calmly pull it out.
After the retaining ring, we take out the bushing with the rail shaft oil seal inside and a small oil seal outside.
The main positive difference from the TRW Opel Astra rail is the presence of this 19 nut cover. Before unscrewing, I strongly advise you to heat the lid very much. According to experts, the lid sits on the varnish. It is impossible to unscrew it impassively without heating. Or how it rips off the edges of soft aluminum.
Behind the cap you will see a nut on the shaft, behind the nut - this is a ball bearing.
One outer working surface of the rack shaft is corroded.
While there is not much money, I twice tried to restore the rail at two Omsk factories in this way through ties and connections. Unfortunately, only sanding and chrome plating was offered.
The rack shaft teeth are in excellent condition.
Pulling out the shafts, we get this top view. (bearing is visible from below)
The mechanism of the car, which serves to control the steering traction of the wheels, is called the steering rack. The steering rack of the Opel Astra h is no exception. This device transmits the driver's effort to the front wheels of the car, forcing them to move synchronously in the right direction and ensuring the correct movement of the car when cornering. The pictures below show the Opel Astra h steering rack and a diagram of the device.
The mechanism operates in several stages:
I - rotary device rotates shaft # 27;
II - the rotation is transferred to part # 21;
III - part # 21 moves the toothed rack (# 16) inside the device body (# 17);
IV - No. 16 moves the steering rods No. 5 and No. 7;
V - steering rods move the levers (No. 3) of the wheels.
Let's say a few words about power steering in a separate line. The machines use these devices of two types:
Power steering wheel (hereinafter referred to as GU) basically works by transferring power from the engine to the gear rack through a hydraulic device.It is a pump that creates pressure in the HU system. Operates when the engine is running.
Valves on the shaft allow oil to pass through the oil lines. Where the oil goes depends on the steering side. This scheme ensures that the wheels turn in the desired direction without unnecessary effort.
pump
distributor valves
cylinder piston system
cylinder seals
drive belt
The electric motor makes the gear rotate. She moves the toothed shaft. The direction of rotation sensors send a corresponding signal to the control unit. The motor, in accordance with the received signal, moves the rail in the desired direction.
programs crash
fail the rotary encoder
Unlike a GU, an electric amplifier can work without turning on the engine. The structure of the mechanism is shown in Figure 4.
It is best to repair the steering wheel at a reputable maintenance station, do not contact private traders, so as not to spoil the part completely.
For example, to find out if play is a deviation from the norm, you need to know the standard embedded in the part. Usually this figure is equal to 9-10 degrees. To measure it, you need a special device - a backlash. If you do not have one, contact the service station.
As soon as the driver feels that he has to increase the load on the steering wheel when cornering, it's time to contact a car service.
The gear and toothed base are the most stressed in the steering rack. Most breakdowns happen with this part of the unit. Among the most common breakdown options, there are:
Tie rod end wear
tooth wear
mechanical destruction of teeth
Usually, the last two problems are eliminated by adjusting the nut that controls the stop.
Backlash is formed due to poor quality road surface, which we all have to put up with. Driving through obstacles in the form of "speed bumps", concrete joints and other irregularities has a detrimental effect on the function of the steering rack Opel Astra h. Driving style is also not the least factor.
After 10-15 years of operation, almost every car has difficulties with steering. Foreign manufacturers give an unambiguous recommendation to their customers: replace the device.
But it is not always possible to find the necessary "native" detail. Therefore, in order to eliminate the backlash on the steering wheel, a "tightening" of the mechanism is often used. But, doing it, you need to remember that the resource of the reducer is not infinite.
If there is a backlash (gap) in the engagement of the steering rack, you need to use the pressure springs.
To eliminate the gap, which turned out to be above the standard deviation rate, you need to adjust the auto gear mechanism - tighten the required screw in the steering rack end cover. To carry out this manipulation, an overpass is used. If not, you can jack the car up.
To repair the steering rack in Opel Astra h is best done by professionals working in car services.
restore the device at a special stand
replace
Carrying out repair work, the foremen will perform the following actions:
completely disassemble the unit
check the shaft for corrosion, runout
assess the condition of the gear clutch, seals and oil seals
appreciate the condition of the hull
After repair, the rail is installed on a special stand that simulates control. This procedure makes it possible to understand how well the work was carried out, what is the function of the part after restoration.
The specialists of our car service will definitely replace the fluid in the hydraulic booster, if necessary, they will pump the system. After the parts are replaced, the employees will also establish the wheel alignment angles.
There are many nuances and pitfalls in the operation of a car. And only regular monitoring of the technical condition of the iron horse will help to extend its service life. Control of the functionality of the main parts will provide the driver and passengers with safety while driving. In the Opel Astra, the steering rack is responsible for the reliability of steering wheel control when cornering. And it is impossible to treat the issue of its functioning carelessly.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
