VIDEO 
The "Manual" contains data on the repair of OPEL "Rekord E" cars with engine models: "20S", "21D" and "23D"; with body types: sedan, station wagon and van 
This manual is a manual for the maintenance and repair of Opel cars with a four-cylinder engine of the "20S" model and with a four-cylinder diesel engine of the "21D" and "23D" models with sedan, station wagon and van bodies, manual transmission or automatic transmission, with a manual power steering.
The manual is intended for workers in service centers and stations and repair shops, as well as for technically trained motorists. Therefore, in some cases, the device of units, mechanisms and systems is presented without excessive detail, and the procedure for maintenance and repair becomes easily understandable when reading the text or studying the figures. The manual provides detailed technical characteristics of all units, mechanisms and systems of the vehicle and provides recommendations for performing maintenance and repair work.
Video (click to play).  
 
 Appendix I contains recommendations for operating the car, Appendix II describes the principle of operation and checks of adjustments of the Pierburg "Ecotronic" 2E-E carburetor installed on the engines of the Opel Rekord "18S" car, Appendix III gives a table of correspondence of fuels and lubricants of domestic production with foreign counterparts. The manual reflects the design of vehicles in the basic version. Therefore, depending on the modifications and the year of manufacture of the car, the design of individual components and assemblies, as well as the design and location of some elements of electrical equipment, may differ from those described in the manual.
  
Good day to all !!
I bought such a miracle as Opel Record 2e 86g. 1.8 carb engine. At first I ran, now there is a problem with the engine, I fill in oil like gasoline, now the antifreeze has started to go away, the capital will most likely not help, the way out is apparently only a replacement. 
Thanks in advance, everyone. Modified: Diberz, 07 Aug 2011 - 01:45 
  
Diberz , for a start it will not hurt to fill out a profile.
  
Capital 1.8? 
I can help with spare parts and disassembly, no question.What specific spare parts do you need? knock in a personal. I can get almost everything and new on hodovke, bodywork and motor.
  
  
  
As for the smoke, yes, and the benzoy stinks on the go kick-ass. 
Say the engine will be from Omega, we will look))
  
  
I think the engine is just the beginning, then the brakes, hodovka, bodywork, electrics, etc., that is, it takes money and time to restore the car, a lot of money and time. And this - we don’t call, I threw the bodies in a personal. And rename the topic, I understand, of course, that in the Opel ReCord data sheet, but in real life it is ReKord.
Time and money is a problem with both 
I am very far from the questions of painting, but I want to solve it before winter))
(thanks for the interest in the topic, I will definitely call, I saw the message at the moment there is no phone next to it, but the one that is empty.
  
body relatively rust almost ideally 
Gee-gee, I no longer believe in stories, I have grown up already, drive them into the hole, poke them with a screwdriver, throw off the front wings and be surprised. Moreover, your E2 is inferior to my E1 in terms of corrosion resistance.
  
OK!! there will be pictures tomorrow. 
I was in the pit, the muffler was boiled, there are of course little things, but it’s “little things” and so it seems that everything is normal)) 
  
  
Litter with pictures is a bummer, ((the car was dirty in nature with children went on Sunday, it is not cultural to somehow spread this, and at work, as luck would have it, there is a lot of steam ((
Measured, between the pins 105mm
  
  
Finally, in the evening I put the pictures on my phone, well, at least such 
I measured it as it should be, it turns out exactly 1190mm (is it a gut or not?)
09082011086.jpg  220.44K  10 times downloaded 09082011087.jpg  249.47K  6 times downloaded 09082011088.jpg  227.77K  8 times downloaded 09082011089.jpg  217.67K  6 times downloaded 09082011090.jpg  142.21K  6 times downloaded 09082011091.jpg  307.84K  8 times downloaded 09082011092.jpg  205.27K  13 times downloaded 09082011093.jpg  206.58K  15 times downloaded 09082011094.jpg  186.64K  11 times downloaded 09082011095.jpg  261.97K  7 times downloaded Modified: Diberz, 09 Aug 2011 - 21:38   
  
  
Hello everyone for a second looked from the worker.
I mnu in the passport says 1.8 and the owner said she was hit in the ass, I put the trunk lid from 2.0. but in general it is necessary to find out. 
- So far, I'm not going to drive in the winter, I want to make repairs, shaman the general condition of the car, and there is no winter rubber, so, I put it in the garage and pulled everything out of the hood sweat over the weekend in Kent, it was not difficult to disassemble, in principle, everything the bolts are quite affordable, the main thing is to have spanners and a set of heads with an extension, and in just a couple of places I had to use a cardan when unscrewing the box, but everything is simple. lick your lips from head to toe with tasol)) But then I stood still when it came to disassembling the engine, but here's the catch, to remove the cylinder head you need sprockets, and not just like bolts on the Basins, or at least hexagons, so right now I'll find a tool and I will continue exiting over the car))
- I did not find the asterisks, and the set of hexagons that I bought was not useful, because in the set all sizes are multiples of 2m, and on the head of the block by 9mm, but I could not stand it and I grinded off the hexagon from 10mm to 9mm on the nashdak and away we go, disassembled the engine on cogs and dowels. Again, it was not difficult and in 4 hours I completely disassembled it, it took a little help when unscrewing the crankshaft mounts - to hold the block, because there, as usual, it was screwed on conscientiously, it was hard to unscrew and hold the block, but to fix it so as not to fidget it at I have nowhere. When I opened the engine, it was not pleasant, the piston was still digging, it was scraped with a screwdriver - it falls off in pieces, there is rust in the coolant outlets, or something else, but of a red hue. Now you have to scrub it, so that at least it would be more pleasant to work. And it remains to be decided whether it is necessary to bore it at all, or to do with replacing the rings, liners, all gaskets, oil seals, valve stem seals and adjusting the head. And I will solve this when I measure everything with a micrometer.
- Another day in garage life. Sensible has not done anything yet, except to measure the cylinders with a micrometer. I went to the minders with the result and found out that ovality in the range of 0.00 - 0.03 mm is okay and you can do with replacing the rings. And at the expense of the crankshaft, he carried it on his hump to the borer of the crankshafts, having measured it, he said that he was in perfect order and the deviation was only 0.02 mm. I told him that I had 0.75 inserts in a circle and it was clear that they were being adjusted. He told me that it was a collective farm and said what inserts were needed, specifically: Indigenous - 0.25, connecting rod - 0.50. All infa and measurements cost nothing.
- And so. I finished assembling the cylinder block. And I have already put it in place, but so far without a head, I have not done anything with it. I did not attach anything to the box, because the oil seal needs to be changed on the box, so it just hangs there 🙂 Added
Hello everyone, I got a record after an unsuccessful repair, the compression fell from the previous owner and he decided. then he rubbed the valve and threw rings from some kind of Volga. As a result, the compression decreased on the contrary. 
Here's another question about the gasket: there is a water jacket in the block and in the head around the pistons, holes are punched on the gasket from classic vases in these places, but they are not on the opelevskaya, there is only a rectangular window closer to the gearbox. So it should be, maybe the gasket is left ?? 
 
Thanks for the offer, but I like to tinker 
Well, the decrease in compression could be due to the increase in the combustion chamber from the recess in the piston. Rex pistons are flat, only with milling for valves.
Tell me how to determine the size of the repair pistons? While I don’t want to remove the pistons, what would then at one time, accurately measure the diameter of the cylinder will be enough for the selection of pistons and rings ??
Uncle Vova 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record 1982 
everything needs to be repaired! what can be repaired and what can be changed and what is better?
1. Starter: pendix is bursting. change or how to repair?
Honored Opelevod 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record C20NE 
1. About the starter - you need to look. Why is it bursting? Maybe the crown has lost his teeth?
Group: Observer 
Opel Record 1982 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record 1982 
Took off 
Group: Club member  
crown wick. dyzl. 🙂 
Honored Opelevod 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record C20NE 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record 1982 
Honored Opelevod 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record C20NE 
Group: Observer 
Opel Record 1982 
Opelevod 
Group: Guests 
I always told everyone:
And now let me express my opinion on the questions:
I would answer in the order of the author's questions:
1. In most cases, the source of the sound is bendinks, but taking into account the always snotty gasket of the oil pump (which is below, and the casing for the crankshaft pulley), as well as such an unsuccessful crankcase for crankcase ventilation (for models with a carburetor), it is possible that the starter may become “oiled”, and as a consequence of its pollution, both internal and external. Perhaps an elementary jamming of the “retractor” or of the bendix itself on the anchor splines.
2. When you buy an item, do not take in your ears the assurances of sellers that the "Asconovsky" are suitable. Especially the rear drums! Then you are tortured to undergo MOT at the brake stand =)
3.Here from the "Vectra" in the ass fit - I just saw it! Actually, I noticed the difference between the 84-year-old record and the 86-year record. The latter has some sort of “lever” end on the rack. True, I compared the Record 84 sedan, and the Record 86 versatile.
4. It's so disgusting at idle. =) Alas, change. although, if you do not ride on the water, you might not enjoy the "trills". 
5. Why. In my opinion, the problem of the Record radiator is that when you fill it with a lot of Tosol from the heart, it starts spitting through a tube =) No, I would not be doing nonsense in your place. Better buy a new plug on the radiator =)
6. If you change "pants" - maximum attention to geometry! Otherwise, when moving through the "sleeping gays", listen to the solo "Polish mufflers". 
7. And here it is categorically. do not need anything!
That's all I wanted to say.
No. 
Still, the Record is the best car in the niche "up to 1000-1200 $" 
Post has been edited Imp  – 30.1.2006, 20:10
After a long break of a year, I again started restoring the family rarity Opel Rekord.
For a year standing on the street, he again became covered with rust and the main occupation now is working with a grinder + a grinding wheel and P 80 sandpaper. I also bought Tsinkar, a rust converter, in the car market. For weeks every day I devote 3 hours to a record.
This is my leather interior with a Cadillac Catera after a year outdoors: leather interior
This was the new wing of the Crockelherm, as it looks after being stripped of rust:
We also clean the skirt that we bought during disassembly: salon with a record from a boat
We remove the moldings in the record using a fiberglass putty and then finishing:
An old radiator, which just crumbled with old age, I am looking for a replacement:
A straight-through muffler, which at first was supposed to set a record, but now I will put on a mitsubishi eclipse:
He completely removed the taillights and restored them, covered the cracks with liquid nails, glued the glass, and also the feet took an hour-long water procedure in a bath with fairies and shampoos and with front turns. We washed ourselves with a bang, for more than 20 years - there is a lot of dirt. I was also surprised by the design of the stacks, according to the idea they should fog up, but somehow I did not notice. After passing the technical inspection, I will tint them black.
Further, the fight against the rotten tank, painting the car, restoration of the front optics, re-fitting the ceiling, chemical cleaning of leather seats.
  
Good day to all !!
I bought such a miracle as Opel Record 2e 86g. 1.8 carb engine. At first I ran, now there is a problem with the engine, I fill in oil like gasoline, now the antifreeze has started to go away, the capital will most likely not help, the way out is apparently only a replacement. 
Thanks in advance, everyone. Modified: Diberz, 07 Aug 2011 - 01:45 
  
Diberz , for a start it will not hurt to fill out a profile.
  
Capital 1.8? 
I can help with spare parts and disassembly, no question. What specific spare parts do you need? knock in a personal. I can get almost everything and new on hodovke, bodywork and motor.
  
  
  
As for the smoke, yes, and the benzoy stinks on the go kick-ass. 
Say the engine will be from Omega, we will look))
  
  
I think the engine is just the beginning, then the brakes, hodovka, bodywork, electrics, etc., that is, it takes money and time to restore the car, a lot of money and time. And this - we don’t call, I threw the bodies in a personal. And rename the topic, I understand, of course, that in the Opel ReCord data sheet, but in real life it is ReKord.
Time and money is a problem with both 
I am very far from the questions of painting, but I want to solve it before winter))
(thanks for the interest in the topic, I will definitely call, I saw the message at the moment there is no phone next to it, but the one that is empty.
  
body relatively rust almost ideally 
Gee-gee, I no longer believe in stories, I have grown up already, drive them into the hole, poke them with a screwdriver, throw off the front wings and be surprised. Moreover, your E2 is inferior to my E1 in terms of corrosion resistance.
  
OK!! there will be pictures tomorrow. 
I was in the pit, the muffler was cooked, there are of course little things, but it’s just “little things” and so it seems that everything is normal)) 
  
  
Litter with pictures is a bummer, ((the car was dirty in nature with children went on Sunday, it is not cultural to somehow spread this, and at work, as luck would have it, there is a lot of steam ((
Measured, between the pins 105mm
  
  
Finally, in the evening I put the pictures on my phone, well, at least such 
I measured it as it should be, it turns out exactly 1190mm (is it a gut or not?)
09082011086.jpg  220.44K  10 times downloaded 09082011087.jpg  249.47K  6 times downloaded 09082011088.jpg  227.77K  8 times downloaded 09082011089.jpg  217.67K  6 times downloaded 09082011090.jpg  142.21K  6 times downloaded 09082011091.jpg  307.84K  8 times downloaded 09082011092.jpg  205.27K  13 times downloaded 09082011093.jpg  206.58K  15 times downloaded 09082011094.jpg  186.64K  11 times downloaded 09082011095.jpg  261.97K  7 times downloaded Modified: Diberz, 09 Aug 2011 - 21:38   
  
  
Hello everyone for a second looked from the worker.
I mnu in the passport says 1.8 and the owner said she was hit in the ass, I put the trunk lid from 2.0. but in general it is necessary to find out. 
This manual is a manual for the maintenance and repair of Opel Rekord E cars with a 4-cylinder carburetor engine of the “20s” model and with a 4-cylinder diesel engine of the “21D” and “23D” models with sedan, station wagon and van body types, with manual transmission and automatic transmission.
Video (click to play).  
 
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