VIDEO
The "Guide" provides data on the repair of OPEL "Rekord E" cars with engines of models: "20S", "21D" and "23D"; with body types: sedan, station wagon and van
This manual is a manual for the maintenance and repair of Opel vehicles with a four-cylinder engine model "20S" and a four-cylinder diesel model "21D" and "23D" with sedan, station wagon and van body types, manual or automatic transmission, with a mechanical power steering.
The manual is intended for employees of service centers and stations and repair shops, as well as for technically trained motorists. Therefore, in some cases, the arrangement of units, mechanisms and systems is described without excessive detail, and the procedure for maintenance and repair easily becomes clear when reading the text or studying the drawings. The manual provides detailed technical characteristics of all units, mechanisms and systems of the vehicle and gives recommendations on the performance of maintenance and repair work.
Video (click to play).
Appendix I contains recommendations for the operation of the car, Appendix II describes the principle of operation and checks of the adjustments of the Pierburg "Ecotronic" 2E-E carburetor, which was installed on the engines of the Opel Rekord "18S" car, Appendix III gives a table of compliance with fuels and lubricants of domestic production with foreign analogues. The manual reflects the design of cars in the basic version. Therefore, depending on the modifications and year of manufacture of the car, the design of individual components and assemblies, as well as the design and location of some elements of electrical equipment, may differ from those described in the manual.
Good day to all!!
I bought such a miracle as Opel Record 2e 86g. engine 1.8 carb. At first I ran, now there is a problem with the engine, I fill it with oil like gasoline, now the antifreeze has started to leave, the capital probably will not help, the only way out is probably a replacement.
Thank you all in advance. Modified: Diberz, 07 August 2011 – 01:45
Diberz , for starters, it does not hurt to fill out a profile.
Capitalize 1.8?
I can help with spare parts and disassembly, no question.What specific parts do you need? knock on the face. I can get almost everything new and hodovke, bodywork and motor.
As for the smoke, yes it smokes, and the pipets stinks on the go.
Say the engine will be from Omega, we will look))
I think the engine is just the beginning, then the brakes, hodovka, body, electrics, etc., that is, to restore the car, you need money and time, a lot of money and time. And this is why we don’t call, I threw the bodies in a personal. And rename the topic, I understand, of course, that in the data sheet Opel ReCord, but in real life it is ReKord.
As for time and money, a problem with both
I’m far from painting issues, but I want to solve it before winter))
(thanks for your interest in the topic, I’ll definitely call, I saw the message at the moment there is no phone nearby and the one that is discharged. I registered on opelrecord.ru now I’m reading)
body with respect to rust almost ideally
Gee-gee, I don’t believe in the story anymore, I’ve grown up already, drive it into the pit, poke it with a screwdriver, throw off the front wings and be surprised. Moreover, your E2 is inferior to my E1 in terms of corrosion resistance.
OK!! there will be pictures tomorrow.
I was in the pit, the muffler was boiled, of course there are little things, but it’s “little things” and everything seems to be normal))
Sori with pictures is a bummer, ((dirty car went to nature with children on Sunday, it’s not cultural to spread something like that, and at work, as luck would have it, you can’t breathe ((
Measured, between the studs 105mm
Finally, in the evening, I clicked on the phone on the phone, well, at least such
I measured it as it should, it turns out exactly 1190mm (is it gut or not gut?)
09082011086.jpg 220.44K 10 times downloaded 09082011087.jpg 249.47K 6 times downloaded 09082011088.jpg 227.77K 8 times downloaded 09082011089.jpg 217.67K 6 times downloaded 09082011090.jpg 142.21K 6 times downloaded 09082011091.jpg 307.84K 8 times downloaded 09082011092.jpg 205.27K 13 downloads 09082011093.jpg 206.58K 15 downloads 09082011094.jpg 186.64K 11 downloads 09082011095.jpg 261.97K 7 times downloaded Modified: Diberz, 09 August 2011 - 21:38
hello everyone for a second looked from the worker.
My passport says 1.8, and the owner said it was hit in the ass, I put the trunk lid from 2.0. and in general it is necessary to find out.
- So far, I’m not going to drive in winter, I want to make repairs, shamanize the general condition of the car, and there are no winter tires, so, I put it in the garage and over the weekend in Kent they pulled everything out of the sweat of the hood, it was not difficult to disassemble, in principle everything the bolts are quite accessible, the main thing is to have ring wrenches and a set of heads with an extension, and in just a couple of places I had to use a cardan when the box was unscrewed, and everything is simple. True, due to the fact that there is a Gazelle radiator, when removing it and removing all the pipes I was covered from head to toe with tasol)) But then I stood still when it came to disassembling the engine, but here's the catch, to remove the cylinder head you need sprockets, and not like on Basins, just bolts, or at least hexagons, now I'll find a tool and I will continue to exercise over the car))
- I didn’t find the asterisk and the set of hexagons that I bought was not useful, because in the set all sizes are multiples of 2m, and on the head of the block by 9mm, but I couldn’t stand it and I grinded the hexagon from 10mm to 9mm on the naszdak and away we go, dismantled the engine by cogs and shpuntikami. Again, it was not difficult and in 4 hours I completely disassembled it, it took a little help when I unscrewed the crankshaft fasteners - to hold the block, because it was screwed there as usual, it was hard to unscrew and hold the block, but to fix it so that it would not fidget at me nowhere. When I opened the engine, there was little pleasant, the piston was all digging, scratched with a screwdriver - it falls off in pieces, there is rust in the coolant outlets, or something else, but of a reddish hue. Now we have to scrub it, so that at least it would be more pleasant to work. And it remains to be decided whether it is necessary to bore it at all, or to get by with the replacement of rings, liners, all gaskets, oil seals, valve stem seals, and adjusting the head. And I will solve it when I measure everything with a micrometer.
— Another day in the garage life. I have not done anything sensible yet, except to measure the cylinders with a micrometer. I went to the minders with the result and found out that the ovality in the range of 0.00 - 0.03 mm is nothing to worry about and you can get by with replacing the rings. And at the expense of the crankshaft, he took it on his hump to the crankshaft borer, measuring it, he said that he was in perfect order and the deviation was only 0.02 mm. I told him that I had liners 0.75 in a circle and it was clear that they were adjusted. He told me that this is a collective farm and said what kind of liners are needed, namely: Indigenous - 0.25, connecting rod - 0.50. All info and measurements were free.
- And so. I finished assembling the cylinder block. And I already put it in place, but so far without a head, I haven’t done anything with it yet. I didn’t attach anything to the box, because the oil seal needs to be changed on the box, so it just hangs there 🙂
Hello everyone, I got a record after an unsuccessful repair, the previous owner lost compression and he decided. so he lapped the valves and threw rings from some kind of Volga. As a result, the compression, on the contrary, decreased.
Here's another question about the gasket: there is a water jacket in the block and in the head around the pistons, holes are punched on the gasket from the classic vases in these places, but there are none on the Opel one, there is only a rectangular window closer to the gearbox. So it should be, maybe the gasket is left??
Thanks for the offer but I like to tinker
well, the decrease in compression could be due to an increase in the combustion chamber from a recess in the piston. Rex pistons are flat, only with milling for valves.
Can you tell me how to determine the size of the repair pistons? While I don’t want to remove the pistons, what would then at one time, accurately measure the diameter of the cylinder will be enough to select the pistons and rings ??
Uncle Vova
Group: Observer
Opel Record 1982 onwards
everything needs to be repaired! what can be repaired, and what can be changed and what is better?
1. Starter: pendix is cracking. change or repair?
Honored Opelovod
Group: Observer
Opel Record C20NE
1. About the starter - you need to look. Why is it crackling? Maybe he lost his crown of teeth?
Group: Observer
Opel Record 1982 onwards
Group: Observer
Opel Record 1982 onwards
Went to take off
Group: Club member
crown wiki. dyzl. 🙂
Honored Opelovod
Group: Observer
Opel Record C20NE
Group: Observer
Opel Record 1982 onwards
Honored Opelovod
Group: Observer
Opel Record C20NE
Group: Observer
Opel Record 1982 onwards
Opelovod
Group: Guests
I always told everyone:
And now let me express my opinion on the questions:
I would answer in the order of the author's questions:
1. In most cases, the source of the sound is bendinx, but given the ever-snotty gasket of the oil pump (which is below, and the housing under the crankshaft pulley), as well as such an unsuccessful krivulka tube for crankcase ventilation (for models with a carburetor) - it is possible to “oil” the starter, and as a consequence of its pollution, both internal and external. Perhaps an elementary jamming of the “retractor”, or the bendix itself on the anchor splines.
2. When you buy spare parts, do not take into your ears the assurances of sellers that de “Asconovskie” are suitable. Especially on the rear drums! Then you are tormented on the brake stand to pass MOT =)
3.Here from the “Vectra” they fit in the ass - I definitely saw it! But actually, I noticed the difference between the Record of 84 years, and the Record of 86. The latter has some sort of “lever” end on the rack. True, I compared the Record 84 sedan, and the Record 86 station wagon.
4. It's so nasty at idle. =) Alas, change. although, if you do not ride on the water, you could not enjoy the “trills”.
5. Why. In my opinion, the problem of the Record Radiator is that when you pour a lot of Antifreeze into it from the bottom of your heart, it starts spitting through the tube =) No, if I were you, I would not engage in NON-SHELL. Better buy a new radiator cap =)
6. If you change your “pants” - maximum attention to geometry! Otherwise, when moving through the “sleeping gayts”, you will listen to the solo “Polish silencers”.
7. And here it is categorically. do not need anything!
That's all I wanted to say.
No.
Still, the Record is the best car in the niche “up to $ 1000-1200”
Post has been edited Imp – 30.1.2006, 20:10
After a long break of a year, I again took up the restoration of the family rarity Opel Rekord.
For a year standing on the street, he again became covered with rust and the main occupation now is working with a grinder + a cleaning wheel and sandpaper R 80. I also bought Tsinkar, a rust converter, on the automotive market. For weeks every day I devote 3 hours to the record.
This is my leather interior with Cadillac Catera after a year of being outdoors: leather interior
It was a new wing of the Crockelherm, this is how it looks after cleaning from rust:
We also clean the skirt that I bought at the disassembly: the interior from the record from the boat
We remove the moldings in the record using fiberglass putty and then finishing:
An old radiator that just crumbled from old age, I'm looking for a replacement:
A straight-through muffler, which at first was supposed to be set to the record, but now I will put it on the mitsubishi eclipse:
He completely removed the taillights and restored them, covered the cracks with liquid nails, glued the glass, and also took hourly water procedures in the bath with fairies and shampoos and with front turns. Washed off with a bang, for more than 20 years - there is a lot of dirt. I was also surprised by the design of the stops, according to the idea they should fog up, but somehow I didn’t notice. After passing the inspection toned them in black.
Next, the fight against a rotten tank, painting the car, restoring the front optics, altering the ceiling, chemical cleaning of leather seats.
Good day to all!!
I bought such a miracle as Opel Record 2e 86g. engine 1.8 carb. At first I ran, now there is a problem with the engine, I fill it with oil like gasoline, now the antifreeze has started to leave, the capital probably will not help, the only way out is probably a replacement.
Thank you all in advance. Modified: Diberz, 07 August 2011 – 01:45
Diberz , for starters, it does not hurt to fill out a profile.
Capitalize 1.8?
I can help with spare parts and disassembly, no question. What specific parts do you need? knock on the face. I can get almost everything new and hodovke, bodywork and motor.
As for the smoke, yes it smokes, and the pipets stinks on the go.
Say the engine will be from Omega, we will look))
I think the engine is just the beginning, then the brakes, hodovka, body, electrics, etc., that is, to restore the car, you need money and time, a lot of money and time. And this is why we don’t call, I threw the bodies in a personal. And rename the topic, I understand, of course, that in the data sheet Opel ReCord, but in real life it is ReKord.
As for time and money, a problem with both
I’m far from painting issues, but I want to solve it before winter))
(thanks for your interest in the topic, I’ll definitely call, I saw the message at the moment there is no phone nearby and the one that is discharged. I registered on opelrecord.ru now I’m reading)
body with respect to rust almost ideally
Gee-gee, I don’t believe in the story anymore, I’ve grown up already, drive it into the pit, poke it with a screwdriver, throw off the front wings and be surprised. Moreover, your E2 is inferior to my E1 in terms of corrosion resistance.
OK!! there will be pictures tomorrow.
I was in the pit, the muffler was boiled, of course there are little things, but it’s “little things” and everything seems to be normal))
Sori with pictures is a bummer, ((dirty car went to nature with children on Sunday, it’s not cultural to spread something like that, and at work, as luck would have it, you can’t breathe ((
Measured, between the studs 105mm
Finally, in the evening, I clicked on the phone on the phone, well, at least such
I measured it as it should, it turns out exactly 1190mm (is it gut or not gut?)
09082011086.jpg 220.44K 10 times downloaded 09082011087.jpg 249.47K 6 times downloaded 09082011088.jpg 227.77K 8 times downloaded 09082011089.jpg 217.67K 6 times downloaded 09082011090.jpg 142.21K 6 times downloaded 09082011091.jpg 307.84K 8 times downloaded 09082011092.jpg 205.27K 13 downloads 09082011093.jpg 206.58K 15 downloads 09082011094.jpg 186.64K 11 downloads 09082011095.jpg 261.97K 7 times downloaded Modified: Diberz, 09 August 2011 - 21:38
hello everyone for a second looked from the worker.
My passport says 1.8, and the owner said it was hit in the ass, I put the trunk lid from 2.0. and in general it is necessary to find out.
This manual is a manual for the maintenance and repair of Opel Rekord E vehicles with a 4-cylinder carburetor engine model “20s” and a 4-cylinder diesel engine models “21D” and “23D” with sedan, station wagon and van body types, with manual transmission and automatic transmission.
Video (click to play).
Book information:
