In detail: Opel Vectra and do-it-yourself door trim repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Are you here »Vectra Club Murmansk» Repair Vectra A »Door trim
Here it was:
Now it became: I'm glad, I can't)))
Edited by Silence (2011-03-30 20:11:19)
Soundproofing Opel Vectra C. The Opel Vectra car, despite its outwardly modest size, inside leaves the feeling of a respectable car, thanks to the spacious interior, which it was awarded by German designers and designers. And even though this car was discontinued, and Insignia replaced the name of Vectra, these cars will continue to drive on the roads of Russia for a long time due to the large margin of safety of the galvanized body. The spacious interior upsets the owner only with a hum at speeds above average. Among other things, this problem worries many car owners and that is why we have been working since 2007 to increase the level of your comfort in the car. Our team consists of a large number of specialists who have been performing professional noise insulation of cars every day for many years. We know almost everything about disassembling the Opel Vectra and are ready to demonstrate this to you in your presence. So let's go!
Noise insulation for the hood of the Opel Vectra. After disassembling the hood lining and degreasing it, we cover the metal with vibration isolation SGM M2, and the standard thermal insulation with Splenom 4mm.
Noise insulation of the ceiling of the Opel Vectra. Disassembly of the ceiling is carried out by an experienced specialist who has thousands of disassembled ceiling panels annually. The work is carried out with clean hands and without snags or stains. Our masters know their job and how and what they understand.
Having disassembled the ceiling, we degrease it before applying vibration isolation.
Vibration insulation of the Vectra ceiling is made with SGM M2 material, which is carefully rolled onto the metal of the roof.
Instead of the beloved Splena, we use a much more effective material - acoustic felt 10mm thick, which is the best noise absorber.
Soundproofing doors Opel Vectra. While one master is making noise insulation of the ceiling, four more are preparing the doors for pasting.
We apply an SGM M2 vibration damper to the outer metal of the door and carefully smooth it out with special rollers. We have in our arsenal several types of tools that help to roll the material in the most inaccessible places.
The next layer in the door is the Splen noise and heat insulator, which does not have an adhesive layer. As you know, a huge amount of moisture reigns in the doors of any car, especially during the period of rains and car washes, and the glue decomposes from moisture. Instead of glue, we have factory-applied the finest mastic vibration isolation on Splena, which holds the material even better on a vertical plane.
Let's move on to the door frame and also carefully isolate it from vibration.
Under the door trim we apply a layer of Bibiton, which is a sound absorber.
On the door trim itself, where possible, we apply acoustic felt so that its thickness does not interfere with door assembly. On the Vectra door, it looks like this.
Soundproofing the trunk, floor and wheel arches of the Opel Vectra. After the soundproofing of the ceiling and doors has been completed (at this point, about 2.5 hours have passed), our masters disassemble the floor of the car and prepare the surfaces for pasting.
As you can see from the photo, huge masses of unprotected metal sport barely painted surfaces under the carpet.
It looks like a floor treated with vibration isolation. Our guys work not only efficiently, but also beautifully, it's nice to see.
On the horizontal sections of the floor in the passenger compartment and wheel arches, we use the thickest, most expensive and effective vibration isolator SGM BMF (in the common people of Bombs). We have this material pre-cut before the arrival of the car according to the templates and heated in our special oven to a temperature of 50 degrees (recommendation of the SGM plant for installation). This significantly saves our energy, since our craftsmen do not waste time heating each sheet, losing their fighting spirit, but take a ready-made hot sheet and continue to work diligently and efficiently.
The thickness of the Bomb vibration isolation that we use on the floor is 4mm. In our work, we try to “lift” the material under the dashboard as much as possible.
The time has come for soundproofing, and most of the offices offering such services would call for help from the cheap and ineffective Splenus. We try to keep up with the times and use a much more efficient and modern Bibiton, despite the more expensive selling price.
On horizontal sections of the floor, we put 10mm Bibiton, for the rest - "five".
We do not limit ourselves to just Bibiton as a sound absorber and combine it with felt wherever possible and will not harm the interior assembly. All this suggests that we offer the client only the maximum possible without any compromise.
In the trunk of the felt there was a place in the rear fenders and in the spare wheel recess. Unfortunately, we cannot put the third layer on the arches - the cladding will not be assembled.
That part of the arch, which is aligned with the wing with felt, of course, is processed.
The boot lid is vibration-insulated and the lining is sound-insulated.
Soundproofing of the dashboard and engine shield of the Opel Vectra. This service is provided with us for an additional fee and is not included in the interior soundproofing program for 24,000 rubles. The craftsmen are preparing to dismantle the dashboard, in order to subsequently disassemble it into its component parts and process it with a sound absorber and an antiskrip. Soundproofing the dashboard first of all relieves you of squeaking and bouncing, and additionally drowns out the sound of the engine and front wheels.
It looks like a Vectra without a dashboard. To dismantle it, we had to remove the steering wheel.
The sub-torpedo space is processed by Bitoplast antiskrip.
And the dashboard itself is disassembled into component parts and also processed by Bitoplast. Before you in the photo is an already assembled processed panel, ready for installation.
In our work, we use the richest experience of our craftsmen who have been working with us since 2007 and have studied the features of the correct disassembly of almost any car. this is what allows us to guarantee the factory build quality of the interior of your car, as well as the absence of traces of opening in the form of spots, hooks and broken caps. You can be convinced of all this by being personally present when working on your car in our Auto-Loker technical center. Agree convincingly?
Soundproofing Opel Vectra carried out by our specialists in 7 hours. During this time, we have made soundproofing of the passenger compartment and engine panel with a dashboard, having packed about 70 kilograms of high-quality vibration and noise insulation into the car, the bulk of which (70%) is located on the floor. Working in the presence of the owner of the car, we have demonstrated our competence and experience with the Opel Vectra car live. We hope that our work will bring pleasure to the driver and passenger for many years to come. After all, you must admit that by investing in car soundproofing once, we save ourselves from stress and increased fatigue for several years to come.
After reading the last comments, I checked the site for viruses (fortunately, work allows), everything is clean, you can not worry, the antivirus complaints are false!
here is the door. Just a door. The upholstery was cleaned with polish - I liked it, I'll have to take a picture of it.
remove the trim. Well, it makes no sense to describe in detail, but just in case I will say: remove the handle of the joint venture (if any), unscrew 6 screws - 3 at the bottom of the pocket, one at the bottom of the handle and 2 under the false panel of the opening handle. Well, you first need to pull it out. There is also a latch in the back corner of the pocket.
we see that the door inside is all in the city of sorry, in anticorrosive!
We take any cleaner - even the engine, even the carburetor, the last one is more vigorous.and pour it over the door inside so that all the anti-corrosion agent dissolves.
while it dissolves, we cut the Visomat MP into pieces (the optimal size has been established experimentally) about 50x30 cm. In fact, the sheet is 90 cm long, I cut them in half and then lengthwise into 3 strips. Wider pieces will not fit into the technological openings of the door.in this photo there is a visomat against the background of bitoplast, this must be said thing! It would seem that there is such a thing, well, bitumen-impregnated foam rubber with a sticky layer, but it is a pleasure to work with it - it serves for gluing joints against squeaks.
Lyrical digression. In fact, the standardplastists themselves recommend Vibroplast in the door. But! After walking for a couple of months 😳 on the soundproofing configs, I found out for myself that all rubber-based materials do not roll in comparison with bituminous ones. They are only easier to glue - and all the advantages. Well, bitumen is not allowed under the hood - it will flow. Therefore, vibroplast bought only 2 sheets - for the hood and trunk.
So, back to our rams. When the door is “soaked” inside, we wash off all this muck, first with just rags and then with white spirit. In addition, for convenience, I removed the speaker and the handle from the door, and also lowered the rod. Along the way, I found out that the springs on both front handles are broken. Since there were none, I just took them off so that they would not strum. That is, another half hour to remove / disassemble the handle.
then we take a hairdryer and heat the pieces of the visomat. My temperature was about 300, it takes about 5 minutes to warm up such a piece.
The main thing is uniformity. Don't even try to sculpt the visomat without a hair dryer!glue the door inside. Precision is not needed, the main thing is not to leave large surfaces. It is necessary that the coverage area is more than 80%. “Feats” with 100% gluing are not needed by anyone.
dear Shumka on the door held up well, so I glued it on top. The most difficult thing was to wash it - it is paper on the outside.
then I put my camera down the door and clicked to see what's up there. found an unsticked corner, which was immediately corrected. By the way, here you can see the glass guide and wires going into the rack.
by the way, if you remove the inner seal and lower the glass, you can see the entire door inside. Very helpful.
After gluing the door foam, we pour anticorrosive iron on everything inside, I bought a Tectyl zinc spray. By the way, the 4 drain holes at the bottom must be open! They do not affect the sound, since they go out into the street, but if you close them, well, or do not clean them of dirt, the door will quickly rot.
Then we glue all the holes in the inner half of the door. Of course, it would be better to remove the pull of the lock in the corrugation so that it does not stick. Later I also glued a piece to the surface to the right of the handle, it is not here.in addition, the top photo shows traces of a fight with a creak in the door handle. On the second, I did the same, but not with foam rubber, but with bitoplast, which is more convenient.
The pocket infuriated with creaks all the time - removed! Bitoplast rules! We cut it into strips and glue it wherever there is touch.here the top piece got out, later cut it off.
by the way, the pocket can be removed non-trivially. 2 self-tapping screws and 2 tricky latches on the side opposite to the speaker. The connection of the door handle with the opening handle frame was also glued - it is also removed entirely.
On reflection, I decided to slightly "burden" the visomat and the door trim, as a result - no rattles!in the background, glue and foam are visible, which was glued to the entire surface of the sheathing (well, except for the fasteners).
What has not yet entered the frame. The speaker was pasted over with bitoplast in a circle - a strip such that it protruded by about a centimeter to seal it with the casing.
Bitoplast glued at the bottom of the pocket also sealed the skin itself to the body. It was possible to glue the entire cladding in a circle with it, but it does not creak anyway, and it’s already broke.
The casing, of course, climbed in and snapped into place with difficulty, but ok! The ESP is working, which means it does not press.
It took about 8 hours to do everything about everything leisurely and being distracted to help neighbors in the garage.
2 doors took 2.5 Visomat sheets and about 0.5 sq. M. foam.
Tired, my neck burned out in the sun
But the sound made me happy! The casing does not sing, the lows are bassierNewbie
Group: Users
Posts: 13
Registration: 29.9.2010
From: Irpin, Kiev
Auto: Daewoo Nexia DOHC
Floor:
I was interested in this question, since I don't like the trim without electric lifts, as in a Zhiguli, it's just horrible. One card was expropriated from the Vectra and in a terrible state with a pen for 30 UAH, but for experiments, nothing is impossible, in principle it is real. I applied, it seems to be not critical, and the caps can be moved, only the question is in the handle and the hole for the piptik of the door lock, well, along the width.
So the card is bought, the beer is poured, the sun is shining, in general FORWARD!After the prefix, I relieved my heart that not everything is so bad. Yes, it does not fit one-to-one and according to the door opening handle, but not everything is so scary of the minuses:
1. You need to trim the edge of the one that is to the rack
2. to move the hole of the lift, but since good skin will be from the ESP, so this is not a problem.
3. Dancing with a tambourine when adjusting the bindings
4. handle.
Now the pros:
1. Compared to the old, even that tattered Europe is incomparably more comfortable.
2. Velor rules in the map)
3. The handle was easy to move, you don't even need to cut anything.
4. After undercutting according to the template of the old card, it will start with a bang, the main thing is to drill holes under the armrest handle.
5. Now there is a place for the speaker in the door, you need to collective farm podiums and shove the speaker.
Considering that it took about an hour or an hour and a half to roughly fit the card without the bottom pocket, the wild thought process of moving the handle and the search for an extension cord for a drill is also normal.
It remains to play with the pocket, as it is more fun IMHO with it. Now the card is holding and rolling with me on two bolts that attach the armrest, there was not enough time for more. But even so it is very decent.From what has not yet been done, but it is understood how to do:
- Pocket
- the end of the map where it was cut (Polyurethane foam will help me.)In total, when using it, it became noticeably more comfortable, quieter, and more fun than such a wretched thing that was.
Yes, so far it is not very beautiful, of course, but there will be a continuation, but when I finish everything, I will give a detailed photo report of what to where and how to twist ..
Conclusion from all that has been done - Opel trims from BE!
Well, door trims were ordered from the Vectra, and on the next or next weekend I will shove.
Intermediate photos of fitting and fitting the kill card and what I ordered below, if it is interesting, I will post a report againMessage basket_judge »29 Mar 2006 16:58
Message Festival »10 Apr 2006 14:39
Message DEN-IS »10 Apr 2006 16:57
Message kostyan »10 Apr 2006 17:36
Well, you can explain it, but it's easier to show. I did as follows (OBA):
1. Remove the door trim, unscrew the pocket and handle from it.
2. Inner part. The pattern is made understandably easy, an insert is cut out of the chipboard pattern. The insert is placed on the casing, holes are drilled.
... 2459xg.jpgScrews are glued into the holes. Then foam rubber is glued to the insert, leather / leatherette is placed on top, glued only along the edge - leatherette / leather does not need to be glued to the foam rubber. it turns out this, what is yellow :):
... 2565rp.jpg
3. The sheathing itself - I put it on the material and outlined the contour. then he smoothed the sides of the sheathing and it turned out like a case, sewn it together. We try it on, we sew it if necessary. Then we glue and pull. ... The subtleties are important here - it's hard for me to describe them. show current. ... 2439nv.jpgMessage Festival »10 Apr 2006 18:49
To remove the door trim of the Opel Vectra A you will need two screwdrivers, one Phillips and one flat. We will pry the overlays and the card itself flat, and turn out several screws securing the cross-shaped skin. In total, 6 screws will be unscrewed - three of them in the handles and three more at the bottom of the door. More clearly all the details of removing the trim of the driver's door Opel Vectra A look at the video.
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When the door trim is removed, the screws (arrows) are visible, which must be loosened in order to separate both door sections. The “magnifying glass” shows the location of the “adjusting wedge” (3), which for adjustment is slid to a greater or lesser extent between the “support of door assemblies” (1) and the base of the door (2).
Dismantling the door trim
How to remove the front door trims is described here. The rear door trim is dismantled, respectively, in the same way.
Dismantling the door trim, step 1: by pressing the retaining lug (2), remove the trim for the power window handle (1), then unscrew the handle (3).
Dismantling the door trim, step 2: remove the handle bowl (4) by loosening the Phillips screw (3), unscrew the screws (1 and 2) underneath.
Dismantling the door trim, step 3: unscrew the screws (1) on the front side, fold the trim upwards in order to remove the fastening hooks (2 and 3) from the grooves.
Dismantling the door trim, step 4: with the trim removed, hang the NC cable (1) of the door from the guide (3) and the control lever (2).
- Dismantle the window crank handle: from the axis of the crank handle, insert a screwdriver under it and press the fastening tab. Peel off the cover towards the shaft of the handle. Unscrew the Phillips screw underneath.
- Pull down the bowl of the inner door handle after loosening the Phillips screw.
- Two other Phillips screws become accessible behind the handle. Unscrew them.
- Unscrew one Phillips head screw on the front of the trim at the front and rear.
- The interior door lock button remains mounted.
- Now, hitting the door trim upwards with a fist from the bottom of the armrest, so that the latches on the back of the trim come out of the grooves in the door frame.
- Remove the cladding and tilt it slightly away from the door.
- On the back of the door NC contact, remove the cable sheath from the guide and hang the cable.
- Disconnect the connectors on the switches and on the speaker.
- If necessary, carefully peel off the insulating film at the back of the door trim. Make sure that it does not break in the places of the latches and contacts of the switches.
- Before installing the cladding, insert the intermediate rubber parts into the holes of the clips in the door frame (if they came off during dismantling).
- In order for the clips to slide better, lubricate the rubber parts with a little petroleum jelly or silicone paste.
- Make sure that the insulating film is carefully inserted on the back of the cladding. It must be inserted into a recess around the perimeter of the cladding.
- During installation, make sure that the door lock button is correctly inserted into the hole in the cladding.
Detaching door parts
For example, after minor damage to the metal, it may be necessary to remove the base of the door from the support of its assemblies. In this case, it is recommended to varnish the new door base before installation. Although after that you need to work very carefully.
- Remove the door trim.
- Dismantle the door as described above and place the outside on a soft pad (Styrofoam, woolen blanket).
- Remove the outside door handle and lock drum from the retaining clips. To do this, fold the locking latch by 90 ° at the clips.
- Loosen the four fixing screws on the front sides of the door.
- Remove the door mount support upward.
Dismantling the outer door handle
1 - lock drum with a heating element;
2 - door handle;
3 - rotary valve;4 - decorative panel;
5 - front TORX fixing bolt.
The arrow shows the spring clamp of the NC control rod.Lock control rod with the following parts
1 - lever of the lock drum;
2 - spring clip;
3 - barbell;4 - control spring clip;
5 - disengaging lock lever.The window lifter is visible from the rear on the functional model:
1 - upper guide roller;
2 - the guide tire of the window regulator;
3 - glass support;4 - power window motor.
Arrows - screw connections of glass / window regulator.The photo shows the screws (1 and 2) that must be loosened to detach both parts of the door.
The door lock hangs on only two screws (1 and 2). But the preliminary work on dismantling the castle has a significant amount, because it is necessary to dismantle the "mounting assembly support" from the door base.
Removing the outer door handle: among other things, fold back the rotary bolt (1) and unscrew the TORX screw (2).
The illustration shows the screw connection (2) of the power window with the glass of the window (1) at the rear in the front door frame.
- Remove the door assembly support from the door base as described above.
- Unscrew the two 6mm TORX bolts.
- Remove the lock.
Tips: In a small series, the door locks were installed without synthetic cover. These locks can be removed without removing the "mounting block support" from the door.
When installing a new control rod between the lock cylinder and the door lock, its length must be adjusted. The length can be adjusted by sliding back the control sleeve on the hinge part on the side of the control rod lock. Then the switching sleeve is pushed forward again, with the result that the rod is fixed.
Removing the outer door handle
The one who does this work on the mounted door must have a calm character and dexterous hands.
- Front door: dismantle the inner door lining.
- Fold aside the spring clips of both control rods (they lead to the locking wedge), hang out the control rods.
- Unscrew the TORX bolt on the front door handle using a T25 wrench through the recess on the inner side of the door.
- Through the door frame, feel the small locking lever at the height of the lock drum and swing it 65 ° towards the rear edge of the door.
- Now remove the door handle inside.
- Remove the outside of the lock drum and the outer decoration panel. While doing this, turn the panel slightly.
- Disconnect the wire if necessary.
- Installation: you need to understand the location of the parts in relation to each other even in the dismantled state. Otherwise, it is guaranteed that the release lever cannot be installed.
- The release lever is inserted with the handle tilted back and tilted forward to lock.
- Rear door handle: removal and installation are similar, but fastening with two TORX screws - without release lever.
- Remove the outer door handle.
- Insert the key into the drum so that when the drum is pulled out, the lock plates and springs do not fall out.
- Press out the retaining ring at the rear end of the lock drum.
- Remove the leash and coil spring, remember their position for subsequent installation.
- Remove the lock drum from the decoration panel.
- When installing, make sure that the closed tooth on the gripper ring gear falls on the cavity between the teeth of the microswitch gear wheel.
- Lubricate the new lock drum with a rust-removing and insulating spray.
- Remove the door trim.
- Remove the support of the door assemblies. The door frame remains on the vehicle.
- Lower the door glass completely.
- Place the support of the door assemblies on a soft surface.
- Loosen the window / glass screw connection, lift the glass and remove.
- Drill out the four power window mounting rivets.
- The window lifter and crank mechanism are a module and can only be removed or replaced together. This is not the case with the power window motor. It can be replaced separately (chapter Instruments and devices).
- Installation: rivet the window regulator, at the same time, put the bottom rivets first.
- Adjust the window in the door.
Dismantling the window in the door is described above. Also, after installation, adjust the glass in the door (next section).
Adjustment of the window in the front door: the rear edge of the window (1) of the front door must fit into the seal (4) of the support of the door assembly units (2), a = 9 mm. The number "3" designates the rear door pillar. The same applies to the front edge of the tailgate window.
The adjustment of the windows in the front and rear doors is carried out in the same way (in mirror image).
- The glass in the front door should fit with its rear edge (pillar B) into the seal by about 9 mm. The same applies to the glass in the rear door as to the front door.
- Above and in front, the glass should be parallel to the seal around the entire perimeter. In other words: it should not be skewed in the doorway.
- If necessary, draw a line with a felt-tip pen along the rear edge of the front glass (or along the front edge of the rear window) at a distance of 9 mm from the edge of the glass.
- Install the glass - make sure the rubber seal line is parallel.
- Raise the glass almost to the stop.
- Now check whether the seal contour and the glass contour are parallel to each other.
- If not, loosen the glass fixing and adjust the glass so that it is parallel to the seal.
Shockproof strips are glued to the door. For disassembly and assembly, see the chapter below.
Note: This section details the trim removal / installation procedure using the front (driver's) side door as an example. For the tailgate, only the features are given.
1. Lower the glass of the corresponding door, insert a plastic wedge between the inner door handle and the trim and separate the trim (see reference illustration).
2. Remove the 2 screws on the inner door handle and then the 3 lower screws that secure the upholstery (see comparison illustration).
3.4 Mounting screws
6 Special tool Hazet-2164-23. Using a plastic wedge (eg Hazet 799-3), separate the 5 trim holders from the door frame (see illustration 19.2).
4. In a similar manner, separate the lower inner liner of the window opening together with the cladding from the door frame, gradually moving the wedge along the liner.
Note: The wedge should be inserted under the trim from the outside of the door (through the window opening).
5. Using a special tool (for example, Hazet-2164-2), separate the door trim from the window opening trim by lightly tapping the tool with the palm of your hand (see illustration 19.2).
Note: The trim is secured to the door trim with spring clips. When separating the trim from the upholstery, the spring clips are damaged and must be replaced during subsequent installation.
6.On the back of the upholstery, using a small screwdriver, depress the drive cable lock and disconnect the cable from the door lock release lever (see reference illustration)
7. Disconnect the power window switch panel wiring connector and remove the trim.
8. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Replace any defective clips.
Features removal of trim for rear door
9. If appropriate, after lowering the glass, remove the power window handle (see Section 20).
10. On Hatchback (GTS) models, use a plastic wedge to squeeze the 3 clips and separate the triangular trim of the rear door (see comparison illustration). The wedge should be inserted from the top.
11. Remove the 2 screws on the inner door handle and then the 2 bottom upholstery screws (see comparison illustration).
12. Using a plastic wedge (eg Hazet 799-3), separate the 4 trim holders from the door frame.
Removal and installation of frontal skin or
Note: This section provides a detailed description of the procedure for removing / installing the upholstery using the example of the front (driver's) side door. For the tailgate, only the features are given.
1. Lower the glass of the respective door, insert a plastic wedge between the inner door handle and the trim and separate the trim
19.1 Separating the trim (1) from interior door handles with plastic wedge (2)
2.Unscrew the 2 screws on the inner door handle and then the 3 bottom screws that secure the upholstery
19.2 Fasteners for the trim (5) of the side door (example of the front door)
6 Special tool Hazet-2164-2
3.Using plastic wedge (eg Hazet 799-3) separate the 5 upholstery holders from the door frame (19.2).
4. In a similar manner, separate the lower inner liner of the window opening together with the cladding from the door frame, evenly moving the wedge along the liner.
We shoot sheathing back Opel doors Vectra B.
