In detail: a jackhammer Makita DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Due to the ingress of dust, dirt and moisture, the internal lubricant hardens over time and does not fulfill its intended purpose. The hammer drill starts to work with abnormal noise. When starting to repair a hammer drill, be sure to read the attached instructions for disassembling, lubricating, assembling the Makita 2450, 2470 hammer drill assemblies. We will also tell you how to disassemble the Makita 2450 perforator.
Disassembly of the Makita 2470 perforator begins with the removal of the mode switch knob.
Place the hammer drill on a clean surface.
When disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 or Makita 2470 hammer drill, you should always remove the mode switch knob.
At the beginning of work, the knob is set to the "Impact" mode (extreme right position clockwise).
On the handle with a screwdriver, the latch is picked up and removed.
After removing the latch, the handle is moved to the extreme left position, in the "Drilling" mode.
The grip clamped with fingers is removed from the grooves of the case.
VIDEO Mode Knob Setting Procedure
To install the mode switch in the case, you need to perform some actions:
At the second stage, you should disassemble the quick-release chuck and repair the hammer drill chuck with your own hands. By the way, the cartridge requires disassembly only for Makita 2470 models. The cartridge device is quite simple, and any person who has a little bit of locksmith skills can handle its repair.
Video (click to play).
Punch chuck repair begins with installing the punch vertically on the rear housing cover. The diagram of the h-makita perforator will help to correctly perform the disassembly work.
The diagram below shows the device of the punch chuck.
The main malfunctions of the makita 2450 rock drill that cause defects in the chuck are:
wear of the protective rubber boot pos. 1;
relaxation of the retaining ring pos. 2 or its partial wear;
ball wear, pos. 20;
loss of elasticity of the conical spring pos. 6 or its extension.
Repairing a hammer drill chuck is not a complicated procedure and is usually easily done by anyone who can handle a screwdriver.
If replacing a rubber boot, retaining ring, conical spring is not difficult, then replacing a new ball requires attention. The new ball should be 7mm ± 1 µm in diameter.
When assembling the chuck, install the conical spring with the narrow side to the hammer drill.
The assembly is done on a clean surface. Parts are pre-washed, dried and lubricated with a thin layer of the recommended grease.
The gearbox shaft is lubricated with Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS grease. All incoming parts of the chuck are assembled on the shaft in a certain sequence.
Having installed the conical spring, pos. 6, put on the guide washer, pos. 5, and fix it with the ball, pos. 20, by inserting it into the groove of the gearbox shaft.
It remains to put on the ring (pos. 4), the coupling casing (pos. 3), fix the parts with the retaining ring (pos. 2). At the last stage, insert the protective tip pos. 1 into the end of the cartridge.
the repair of the Makita 2450 perforator cartridge is over. It remains to check its quality by inserting a drill into the chuck. When properly assembled, the chuck keeps the drill from falling out spontaneously.
The cartridge is assembled.
To get to the mechanical part, you will need to remove the plastic case.
The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita perforator
After removing the housing, it is necessary to separate the rotor from the gearbox. The general mechanical part is called a reducer.
The most typical malfunction for the mechanical part is the failure of the percussion mechanism.
Disassembly of the striking mechanism
The gearbox shaft is a hollow barrel in which the cylinder moves freely.
A small spur gear mounted on the intermediate shaft transmits rotation to the large spur gear of the gearbox shaft, in which the percussion mechanism is mounted.
We proceed to disassembling the intermediate shaft.
Dismantling the intermediate shaft
On the shaft poz.40 mounted helical gear poz.42, which is transmitted rotation from the rotor gear, rolling bearing 608zz poz.41, which transmits translational motion to the hinge poz.34 piston poz.32.
Moving on to disassembling the shock mechanic's shaft
Disassembly of the percussion shaft
Disassembling the barrel of the Makita 2470 perforator is a simple process if you use the diagram of the Makita perforator.
The shaft is a barrel poz.21, in which the impact mechanism is assembled.
A gear, pos. 19, is attached to the barrel, which is pressed down by a spring, pos. 18, through a washer, pos. 17, and is fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 16.
The cylinder, pos. 32, moves in the barrel, acting on the firing pin, pos. 24. On the reverse side of the striker, a metal ring pos. 27 is fixed, which transfers the blow to the drill.
And when do you need to replace the drill barrel?
Most often, the metal ring fails.
Striker
Cylinder with drummer
We figured out the disassembly.
VIDEO
Makita power tools have long established themselves as professional, reliable and easy to maintain. In addition, it has good maintainability and a relatively low price.
Of all the lines of punchers, I want to dwell on the model Makita HR 2450 ... The tool is very easy to use, has three modes of operation and can withstand very long loads. For the author of these lines, the perforator has worked faithfully for more than six years without breakdowns. Moreover, it was used in the mode of intensive loads. But at one fine moment ...
As you know, nothing is eternal. And reliable technology breaks down. Somehow, in the midst of work, he stopped hammering. In rotation mode, the machine worked, but the blow suddenly disappeared.
The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified. A bushing was broken in the barrel body, in which the striker (striker) directly carries out impact work. As a result, the drummer got stuck in the fragments of the collapsed bushing.
The service center advised to replace the barrel completely. It turned out that the bushing is pressed into the barrel at the factory and is not supplied separately. I had to buy an entirely new barrel.
In this article, we will tell you how to bring the hammer drill into working order yourself after this, in general, simple breakdown. If you have the skills to repair power tools and a desire not to pay someone your hard-earned money, then we take the tool and start disassembling the machine.
You will need two regular flat-head screwdrivers and one cross-head. One of the flat screwdrivers should be thin and narrow, no more than 4 mm wide. You will also need a wire hook to remove the retaining ring. It can be made from a bicycle spoke, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and does not easily unbend. You will also need a rubber mallet or wooden mallet.
Disassembly of the punch should be started by removing the protective rubber cap - boot. It can be easily removed, just take it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.
Then, pushing on the plastic cover and squeezing the spring of the SDS + mechanism lock, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.
Remove the stopper using a screwdriver
The cover is removed from the barrel, and behind it, again squeezing the spring, we take out the retaining ball together with the spring and the figured washer.
Then the mode switch is disassembled. There is a special slot for a screwdriver under the cover holding the red release button. By inserting a screwdriver into this groove and prying the cover slightly, first from one edge, and then from the second, carefully remove it. You should not make significant efforts here, the lid is still plastic and may break. The red button together with the spring is removed from the switch body, and it is moved to the left until it stops, a little further than the drilling mode. It is from this position that it is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch must be lightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed together with the rubber O-ring.
Remove the punch mode switch
Now the gearbox is removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to lightly hit the end of the barrel with a mallet in order for the box to come off the gearbox.
Remove the gearbox
After removing the box, we take out the barrel from the gearbox. It comes off easily.
We take out the barrel from the gearbox
Remove the old grease with a rag, and rinse the barrel with gasoline or kerosene and wipe it dry.
So, as mentioned above, it was required to completely change the entire barrel. However, this item, bought in a service center, turned out to be "naked as a falcon." That is, there was absolutely nothing on it and it was necessary to rearrange all the details from the old barrel to a new "blank".
The most difficult operation was the extraction of the striker from the barrel body.There are special holes in the barrel body through which the retaining ring is visible. This ring holds the firing pin with rings and rubber dampers in the body seat. Insert a thin screwdriver into the hole and slightly bend the ring. We do this first on one side, and then on the other. The stopper should come out of the groove.
Use two screwdrivers to squeeze the stopper
Then, from the inside, with a homemade wire hook, we pull out the stopper into the light of day.
With a wire hook, remove the stopper from the inside
Next, we remove the firing pin with washers and rubber rings. It is necessary for the assembly to remember or sketch the location of all rings and washers. If something goes wrong, the photos and drawings from the article will help.
Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. Pressing on the washer and squeezing the spring, use a thin screwdriver to remove the retaining ring from the groove. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.
The toothed wheel is pushed onto the new barrel and meshed with the splines. Next, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed on it. It is necessary to insert the retaining ring and fix the mechanism in the working position.
To do this, take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in your palms, with your fingers squeeze the spring with force, while simultaneously moving the washer and stopper down. It is necessary to squeeze until the stopper enters the groove.
Then a firing pin with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which it was sorted out. But first you need to pay attention to the condition of the drummer, his appearance.
If the firing pin has dents and pits after a long period of work or because it was scratched on a broken bushing, then it should be sanded down a little. To do this, it is clamped into a drill chuck and processed with fine-grained emery cloth. But if the irregularities are too large, then the drummer will be easier to replace.
It is necessary to lubricate the firing pin with special grease before installation and then use the grease during operation. When inserting the drill into the hammer drill, you need to apply a little grease to its shank. This extends the service life of the machine.
Having installed the striker mechanism in the barrel, we fix it with a retaining ring. Using a screwdriver, we try to move the striker on both sides inside the barrel. It should walk easily in the canal and not jam.
The assembled barrel is installed in the gearbox housing. Putting it on a cylinder with a piston, we put it into mesh with the drive gear and insert it into the body. All parts should be well lubricated during assembly.
Installing the barrel into the gearbox
Then we install the gearbox, after having lubricated the needle bearing. With four bolts, we pull the box to the stator housing and install the operating mode switch in place. To do this, set it to a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode.
Reinstall the mode switch
Snap the cover of the punch mode switch
Then, in a final chord, the SDS + mechanism is assembled. Having installed the spring of the mechanism, we put on a curly washer and insert the ball. Then, with a plastic cover, we squeeze the spring of the mechanism and insert the retaining ring. Putting on a rubber boot is no longer difficult.
Squeezing the spring with a washer, install the retainer ball
Installing the SDS mechanism
Trying the hammer drill under load. When the machine is operating, there should be no extraneous noise in the gearbox, the mode switch should be easily moved without jamming. In general, everything should work as before the breakdown.
The author of this article hopes that it will help dear readers to understand the repair of a hammer drill. Any breakdown can be simple if you find its cause. And then it all depends on your skill and diligence.
The author is fine, he described everything in detail, the only thing I forgot to write is that when you put the mode switch, you need to turn it counterclockwise so that it snaps into place.
The article is kind, but I can't understand how the striker repair kit gum is located.
I have not seen a better description, thanks to the author.
instead of replacing the barrel, he replaced the bushing (broken), but on BOSH 1610290029 they call it a scraper. Assembled checked (drilled two holes for fasteners F8 works), let's see how it goes next. Cost 120R. and lubricants.
Please tell me how to remove the drill from the cartridge if it turns out to be defective and so as not to harm the cartridge
How long did you work with a drill jammed in a chuck? It can be assumed that the shank was riveted due to poor quality drill material. There is also a possibility of cranking in the chuck. You can try to pull out the stuck drill by holding it in a vice and, shaking it, pull the drill towards you. You can use any lubricating fluids. But in the case of a very strong deformation, this method is unlikely to help. Then it is better, if possible, to contact a workshop. An attempt to disassemble the hammer drill and knock out the drill yourself without appropriate experience can lead to the failure of the hammer drill itself.
Makita Demolition Hammers are reliable tools that can withstand heavy loads. However, with improper operation or overloads, even they have breakdowns.
The specialists working in our workshop will carry out even the most complex repairs of the Makita jackhammer.
We carry out both warranty and post-warranty repairs of Makita jackhammers. Its cost is determined by the complexity, which is influenced by a number of factors, including the price of spare parts, the power of the device, and the nature of the breakdown. During the replacement process, we supply only original spare parts. In addition to setting up battery and power tools, we will repair any type of Makita saw.
For all questions about the repair of the instrument you are interested in, call: +7 (495) 530-70-07 ext: 120.
The breaker is a heavy duty tool. Nevertheless, he is not immune from breakdowns. Let's consider some of the most common problems with the operation of electric jackhammers from the manufacturers "Makita" and "Hitachi".
VIDEO
Repairing an electric jackhammer is not an easy task. In order to perform it, you need to understand: as a rule, hammer repair consists of two main stages:
Fault detection - identification of a problem node that has already failed or its resource is close to zero.
Replacement of defective parts.
Of course, it would be more correct to repair that electric hammer that needs it and contains a certain supply of working life. It is necessary to determine this so that the repair does not turn into a useless waste of time, effort, money, and the tool after repair has worked for a certain period.
The market provides a limited list of spare parts. As a rule, these are springs, valves, air distribution units, strikers. Therefore, not every breakdown can be eliminated without contacting a service. Nevertheless, it makes sense to consider some problems that can still be solved with your own hands.
It will be correct to note that if we take into account the Chinese electric hammer, then in the event of a breakdown, one should not count on successful repairs. They are often disposable due to the poor quality of the materials used in the manufacture.
Consider a classic renovation plan:
Disassembly and cleaning of dirt from a jackhammer.
Defect detection (if it is not obvious).
Repair or replacement of damaged parts.
Assembling the tool.
Functionality check.
As a rule, such a plan is used by highly qualified service employees who do this professionally. We are considering the possibility of repair with our own hands, and, as a rule, this moment comes when the problem is obvious and requires an immediate solution. So, let's consider some of the most common breakdowns of electric jackhammers for models from giant Makita» and Hitachi» that you can do yourself.
VIDEO
One of the most common problems with the Makita» Is the clamping of the lance in the barrel. As a rule, the reason is the wear of the retaining bodies, but a banal defect of the peak is also possible.
In order to fix the problem, you must act according to the following algorithm:
The top cover (protection) is being removed.
The retaining ring is removed.
Dirt accumulations are removed.
The oil seal is removed (at this stage, the peak will fall out of the barrel).
The locking body is inspected. If it shows obvious signs of wear (rounded edges), then it must be replaced.
Inspection of the splines of the barrel. They are normally square in shape. If they have a sharp shape, then the barrel needs to be replaced.
Replacement of a worn-out element and assembly.
Blockage in the hose. As a rule, it occurs due to a fracture. Fixing the problem won't be a big problem. You just need to find the damaged area and remove it. Unfortunately, if the removal of a part would result in unnecessary shortening of the hose, it will have to be replaced completely. The list of tools to fix this problem is minimal:
knife;
clamps of the appropriate size.
There is often a problem of increased frequency of impacts with a weak single impact.
Cause : Excessive clearance between the barrel receiver and the distributor.
To fix the problem, you must:
Disconnect the hammer and muffler.
Remove the retaining ring and retainer.
Tighten the link to the dead point.
Despite the reliability of the tool and the efforts of the manufacturer, there is often a problem with the point of contact between the end of the barrel and the valve box. The problem is eliminated if the assembly is cleaned in time.
VIDEO
An electric jackhammer is a tool that has a fairly reliable seal, since its work is designed for extreme conditions. The grease change may not be carried out for a rather long period of time, even with active use of the tool.
When the time has come for replacement, it is done according to the following algorithm:
An important point! Safety: Disconnect the tool before starting the replacement procedure. Make sure the plug is not in the outlet to avoid electric shock.The crank mechanism is removed, after which it is necessary to remove the old grease.
The introduction of a new lubricant in the amount of 30 grams.
Replace the crank housing.
An electric jackhammer is far from the most complicated tool. Minimal maintenance and attention is required for its long-term operation. The list of problems in the work is rather limited, with the main part of them you can figure it out with the help of the article.
VIDEO
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For a long time I have met false sellers in the network who sell this trash under the guise of the original. And moreover, there are offered different models of Makita tools at a price three times lower. What they just do not come up with for successful sales. And collected in Poland. and European assembly. Stator anchor all spare parts are original, only assembled by Poles. Well, in short, anything. but the most important thing that captivates a potential consumer is the price. and many are underway.
There is clearly something wrong with the spindle lock.
Well, self-tapping screws immediately give out a catch.
I think okay, maybe it seemed. What's with the brushes? But there is also little pleasant.
We climb further. Maybe the Polish collectors will surprise and deliver everything original from the Makita.
the bearing was set to 6000 instead of 6200, and an elastic band was tightened, which dangles in the housing. although as you can see the 200th could be dressed.
The stator goes in parallel and also without any protection, as stated in all advertisements for the sale of this counterfeit.
Everything seems to be obvious here, an ordinary Chinese soft starter. not round like a resistor, but fits neatly ..
Well, the funniest thing. Her handle flew off, stupidly under its own weight. According to the owner, he just put it on his shoulder. And what would have happened if during work.
I look at the pictures and was inspired by a video about impact resistance from rem273
I didn't get to the gearbox, maybe tomorrow, if there is time.
I look at the reviews people like to read, I also decided to drop a small photo-review of the Makita UT1250 mixer. I think it will be useful to many and will protect them from dubious purchases.
power of 2 kW is the guarantee of long-term and trouble-free operation. Well, yes.
The cable is frankly bullshit, there was no frost yet, but it had already peeled off all over.
The fork also did not heat up nirazu.
That's what I liked, that here the Makitovites thought over and finally made the cover for the button separately from the entire part of the case, which is very convenient when disassembling and replacing the button. Not like the shitty Chinese usually have that you need to unscrew the entire handle entirely.
The button is really some kind of completely flawed, Makitovites obviously saved
And the contacts are reliably made, not warmed up nirazu.
Go ahead. The reliability of the gear unit and the high quality of the components are declared. There is even nothing special to comment on.
The gear is on a key and dangles on the shaft like g. But in the hole (C)
I was surprised by the variety of bearings that Makitov residents used in this device.
And also WTOO, Andryukha I know praised more than once, so the bearings are exactly what you need.
And even with a plastic separator, just a masterpiece. what a good fellow Makitov.
At anchor in general, the bearings are just a bomb!
On the engine, the Makitovites also clearly saved money, a Chinese trace is clearly visible. Or Latvian, I don't know how to do it right. But in the description, the components are declared of high quality. Whether to believe this, let everyone decide for himself. Only about 2 kW is clearly too much.
The brushes are shitty, the springs are tight. The rope has already hardened from overheating on one brush and will soon fall off.
What can I say in the end. Anyone who buys this kind of makitu is either a complete loshara or an idiot. Yeees. as they say today - the Makita is not the same.
Karcher car wash repair (replacement of the connector tube)
In this article, we will consider how to make repairs to a car wash with your own hands and how to get to the outlet pipe at the Körcher sink and replace it.
First you need to unscrew the screws (for a Phillips screwdriver) that are located on top of the handle
Then we unscrew the screws securing the back cover
Now we put the sink and remove the top cover
Access to the internal components is opened and we can already remove the connector
Removing the metal bracket
We lift the pump and take out the tube.We give a new spare part and install it in the reverse order. Carefully remove the rubber seal ring and move it to a new connector. Next, put it back and insert the fixing bracket.
Finally, the building was completed for us, we moved and opened.
Own spare parts warehouse A constant stock of parts and spare parts for all types of Makita jackhammers allows you to carry out repairs in the shortest possible time.
7 workshops in St. Petersburg. One of our workshops will definitely be in your area. It's also not easy to find!
100% trick-free guarantee! We are fully responsible for our actions and provide guarantees from 1 year for the work of the master and from 4 months for spare parts.
The professional tool Makita is widely known in Russia to builders and craftsmen. Demolition hammers from this manufacturer are reliable and simple in the device, for them high build quality is typical. Despite this, technology wears out and needs the attention of a professional.
Repair of Makita jackhammers in the Import-Service company is carried out by experienced specialists, experts in the electrical and mechanical drive for construction tools.
The company provides its workshops with a full range of spare parts for all models of equipment of all brands.
We provide guarantees for the results of repairs and accessories. We recommend that you monitor the state of the tool and pay attention to its main nodes:
do not overheat the engine
do not use the jackhammer if you suspect a small amount of grease
watch the condition of the tool, do not work with blunt drills and nozzles
in case of unstable operation, check the condition of the collector and engine brushes
do not allow the firing pin and motion conversion mechanism to wear out.
Prices for the repair of Makita breakers
The published prices for repairs are for informational purposes only (they are not a public offer determined by the provision of Article 437 of Part 2 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). The final cost depends on the complexity of the breakdown and is announced by the master after diagnosis.
The cost of repairs can be increased due to improper operation, with complex contamination or "sticking" of individual spare parts; also the price of work can be increased depending on the technical complexity of the power tool.
The cost of works that are not in the price list are negotiated separately.
Recovery after non-professional repair + 50% to the cost.
Repair prices do not include the cost of spare parts. Replaced parts and assemblies are paid additionally.
Due to the impossibility of accurately determining the complexity of the breakdown by phone, the dispatcher calls the estimated cost for the repair. The exact amount is determined by the master after diagnosing the malfunction.
After 9 o'clock in the evening, the master has the right to undertake repairs at a negotiated price.
In case of non-cash payment, repairs are carried out after 100% prepayment.
Drawing up an act of fault detection (write-off) - 500 rubles.
Prices are indicated without VAT.
Free consultation on repair here and now!
1. An expert will answer all your questions - give valuable advice.
2. You will find out the approximate cost of repairs if you contact us.
3. No commitment - you can just call and ask!
Call at any time of the day, we work 24 hours seven days a week !
Diagnostics are paid when the instrument is handed over for repair. No tools (generators, lawn mowers and vacuum cleaners) are accepted for repairs.
The cost of repairing a power tool is only after diagnostics.
Contact phone: +7 (901) 519-83-13
The quality of Makita brand electric and gas powered tools has long been in no doubt. Moreover, today we can speak of Makita as a quality standard, since the requirements of a Japanese manufacturer to their own products are much higher than generally accepted standards.Made using the latest technologies from high-quality materials and passing multi-stage quality control in production, Makita tools are designed for intensive use in the most difficult conditions. If they are used for their intended purpose and taking into account their technical capabilities, then they will certainly last a long time. Timely service and, if necessary, routine repairs will help to significantly increase the service life of Makita equipment and thereby avoid the forced costs of purchasing a new tool.
The Makita Pro company is an official dealer of Makita. This gives us the opportunity not only to sell Makit's tools of impeccable quality on favorable terms to the end consumer, but also to carry out its after-sales support. In particular, having at our disposal original and contractual spare parts and qualified personnel, we offer a prompt repair makita tools of any complexity - from rewinding an electric motor to replacing control buttons.
As practice shows, at present, Makita hammer drills and drills are in greatest demand. The reasons for their unexpected failure, as, indeed, of any other tools, can be different: wear of parts as a result of prolonged intensive use; possible mechanical damage; regular overloads, etc. In any case, competent diagnostics and subsequent repair of makit by qualified specialists using original spare parts.
Makita Rotary Hammer Repair necessary in the following cases:
If smoke and burning smell occurs at the moment of switching on;
With increased noise in the gearbox;
When the shaft stops abruptly at the moment of shutdown;
When the shock function is inactive;
When the engine is inactive at the moment of switching on;
If an all-round fire visible through the ventilation grilles occurs on the manifold.
The first fault is usually caused by a short circuit in the stator or armature windings. The latter can also cause an all-round fire on the manifold. Lack of impact function is usually caused by problems with the crank assembly or countershaft. Increased noise in the gearbox can be generated by worn bearings or a tapered pair. Well, there can be as many as three reasons why the perforator does not show any signs of life at the moment it is turned on - a faulty switch, a damaged mains connection cable, or an open circuit in the stator or armature winding. In any of these cases repair of the punch Makita should be entrusted exclusively to professionals. They will disassemble the tool, clean and lubricate it, identify faults and eliminate them, if necessary, replacing parts and mechanisms with new ones.
All of the above malfunctions, with the exception of, perhaps, problems with the impact function, are also relevant for screwdrivers. In addition, the reason for repairing a Makita screwdriver may be a faulty torque adjustment clutch, which often happens as a result of intensive use of the tool. Also Makita screwdriver repair may be needed in the event of a malfunction of the start button, in case of problems with the speed switch or reversing switch, in case of external damage to the case, etc. All these problems are solved quickly and easily with the help of the specialists of the Makita Pro service center.
We have an extensive stock of spare parts and have experienced specialists in the field. By contacting us, you can be sure that the repair perforator Makita or Makita screwdriver repair will be carried out efficiently and in a short time. You can deliver the instrument to us and then pick it up yourself or use the services of our courier service. The quality guarantee of the repair work performed by our specialists is documented and applies to the agreed period.You have the right to refuse to repair the makit after a preliminary estimate of the cost of the upcoming work, if for some reason it does not suit you. If you are sure that you can repair the Makita power tool yourself, you can simply purchase the necessary original spare parts from us.
Make your life easier - trust us with your Makita power tool and it will last you a long time.
The site is not a public offer,
Video (click to play).
After removing the latch, the handle is moved to the extreme left position, in the "Drilling" mode.
