DIY repair reports

The automatic transmission that is installed on the Camry V 50 is called the Aisin U760E and is an upgraded version of the U660E. Aisin's 6-speed automatic transmission U660E was developed in 2006 for front-wheel drive Lexus cars (ES 350), as well as for luxury 6-cylinders.

The DP0 / AL4 gearbox is installed on all cars of the Peugeot, Citroen, Renault concerns up to 140 horsepower, in fact, it is made with a margin and can handle 30% more torque. These are Peugeot 206, 406, 307, 308, 407; Citroen c4, c5; and Renault, Megan, Laguna, etc.

In this report, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the repair of automatic transmission 01N installed on a Volkswagen Passat B5.

In this report, we will focus on the DSG 6 box, which is also installed on the SEAT Altea FreeTrack 4WD car. The owner got kicks, a sharp gear change.

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At the time when we just started dating my husband, I had been living in my apartment for 8 years, and it was in need of alteration. We decided this: a new life - a new apartment. And we decided to make repairs on our own. I hope that our experience will be useful or inspire someone to also improve their living space with minimal cost. I will tell you step by step how we started, what difficulties we faced, what stages we divided the work into and how we tried to save money.

We decided to start by replacing old windows with new plastic double-glazed windows. Initially, there were terrible wooden frames - crooked, dry and not keeping warm (which was frankly frustrating in winter). Since the renovation was undertaken on a global scale, everything was changed at once - in the room, in the kitchen and on the balcony. It turned out, of course, on a non-budgetary basis. However, in any case, it is cheaper than renovating each room separately, because firms, as a rule, give big discounts on large orders. Replacing windows with plastic ones is a rather dirty and dusty business (in fact, this is the main reason why we started with glazing).

My admiration for the workers - they got all the work done in a little over a day. On the first day, they came at 10 am, dismantled everything (the balcony, by the way, was also glazed before that), put new windows, finished by about 20 pm. The next day, one worker came and in 2 hours put the slopes, window sills and putty everything. In the remaining time we did the cleaning and took out the old windows (because I was frankly greedy to pay for garbage collection).

Then we took up the kitchen. Unfortunately, there are no “Before” photos. But there is a photo "in time" - just in the process of replacing windows.

My old kitchen was such a rosy girl.

We mercilessly dismantled and threw out all the kitchen furniture (including the stove, hood and sink). Do not throw slippers at me - it was all in such a state that it was really embarrassing to give it to someone (the stove was ordered to be completely broken two days before the start of the repair).

Next, we removed the old linoleum and started laying the floor tiles ourselves. We did all this on our own, because initially the budget for the renovation was limited, and there was a lot to do.

It's good when a husband’s hands grow from where it is necessary. And not simple, but gold!

Advice: if you want to repeat our "feat", please note that the repair is done from top to bottom, not bottom to top (as we did out of inexperience). That is, if you plan to change absolutely everything, then start from the ceiling, then move on to the walls (chipping channels for sockets, plaster, putty, etc.).Only the wallpaper, I would probably advise to glue it last, that is, after you make the floor.

• Tile adhesive
• Primer
• Tile cutter
• Notched trowel (selected according to tile size)
• Normal trowel 50-80mm
• Construction mixer
• Drill
• Seam crosses (the size of the crosses depends on how wide the seam you want to make between the tiles)
• Rubber trowel + special trowel for seams (it usually comes in packages with grout)
• Level
• Bucket about 8-12L (for mixture)
• Water (dilute the mixture and grout)
• Rags
• Marker (for marking)

First, we check if the floor needs leveling. This is done using the usual building level. If the difference is small, 2-7 mm, this will easily fix the tile adhesive during installation. But if you are unlucky, and the height difference is more than 1 cm, you will have to look for an equalizer or use a special tile glue, which removes irregularities up to 3 cm, but costs many times more. Since we did not level the floor in the kitchen, I will tell you in detail about leveling when I describe the repair in the room.

Next, we prime the floor with an impregnating primer. If the floor surface is loose (crumbles, crumbles, etc.), then apply a strengthening soil. This is done for better adhesion of the glue to the surface. Approximate holding time from 30 minutes to 6 hours, depending on the substrate (see packaging).

The next step is choosing a tile adhesive. What are the criteria for choosing tile adhesive: base, room humidity, location (inside / outside the room), type of tile. For example, you need to put ceramic tiles on the floor in the kitchen, in the hallway, in the room - the simplest and cheapest glue will do. If you need to glue the tiles on the wall, then glue is needed, let's say, of the middle category (if you don't want the tiles to slide over time). In our case, the glue was of the middle category, because we installed porcelain stoneware, which is heavier than conventional ceramic tiles.

Average consumption of glue up to 8 sq. from a bag of 25 kg.

We lay the tiles. We dilute the tile glue (according to the instructions on the package) in small pieces, about 5-7 kg each. The mixture is diluted with a construction mixer and a drill (if you dilute in large portions, the drill will most likely burn out). After mixing the mixture, let it stand for 5-10 minutes and stir again.

• make markings around the room and accurately calculate the tiles so that the same number of tiles lie from the center (this method will require certain work skills);
• start from one wall and go to the other (here it turns out that one wall will have a solid tile, and the opposite one may have scraps).

In the first option, the tiles will be sawn near each wall. We adhered to the second option - simple, fast and convenient. Then everything is easy: take a diluted building mixture and use a notched trowel to apply it to the floor (you can apply it on the tile itself or on the floor and tiles, they do everything differently, but we applied only to the floor). When you have applied the glue, wipe off the dust with a slightly damp cloth before gluing the tiles. At first, it is better to make a small indent from the wall (about 1 cm), later it will be closed with a plinth, and there it will be possible to lay a wire, if necessary. The indent is done so that there are no drops if the wall is not completely flat. When laying tiles, do not forget about crosses so that the seams are even and neat. And most importantly, lay the tiles in rows, and not randomly. As you started, you move.

Be sure to let the tile adhesive dry and do not walk on the tile! It takes at least a day.

After that, start to process the tile joints with a special grout. In principle, you can wipe the seams with tile glue, but then you will be very limited in color. It is necessary to dilute the grout strictly according to the instructions. You can rub in any direction, as it is convenient, use a rubber spatula for this.There is also a special trowel for grouting - it looks like a piece of wire, you use it to make the seam as neat as possible. By the way, if you don't have a special spatula, you can just take a piece of wire. When finished, let the grout dry for 6 hours or better all day.

Then we clean the tiles with a damp cloth, it is advisable not to touch the seams too much.

Further, according to the plan, it was to make grooves and move the sockets, since the original location of the sockets did not suit us categorically.

To begin with, they removed the old wallpaper. Now there are a lot of special liquids for removing wallpaper. But we are saving, do you remember? Therefore, we took ordinary water, diluted a little soap in it and poured it into a spray bottle. Everything is simple here - you process a part of the wall, let the liquid soak into the wallpaper (2-3 minutes), and then remove it with an ordinary spatula. True, this method works only with paper wallpaper and paper-based wallpaper, you will first have to remove the top layer, and only then remove the paper from the walls using the method described above.

After that, we made markings for the sockets and slightly hammered the wall (hello, neighbors!) In order to protect the new floor, we used old linoleum.

Then, when all the grooves were done, we moved the sockets and carefully plastered and putty everything.

• Wallpaper (it is better to take vinyl or non-woven wallpaper to the kitchen, as they can be wiped clean, and some can even be washed)
• Wallpaper glue (depends on the type of wallpaper)
• Wallpaper smoothing spatula (it is plastic)
• Maklovitsa (this is a large brush for glue. Simply, if you apply glue with a roller, it dries quickly, which increases its consumption)
• Stationery knife
• Pencil
• Bucket 5 l
• Scissors

We begin to glue the wallpaper. If the wallpaper is vinyl, then the glue is applied to the wall and wallpaper, and if it is non-woven, only to the wall.

Actually, there is nothing difficult about gluing wallpaper. If you have plain wallpaper or the pattern is not clearly traced, then you can cut several strips of the required length at once and get to work. If the wallpaper has a pattern, then you will have to adjust it when gluing, so that as a result everything looks like a single canvas, and picky critics were looking for where the seam is hidden here.

Our wallpaper did not have a clear pattern, but there was a certain pattern in the arrangement of decorative elements, so we decided to adjust them "by eye". First, we pasted one canvas (the first is always the easiest). And then they applied the canvas to the already glued end-to-end, adjusted it according to the decor and only then cut it off from the roll.

When the wallpaper was done, we ordered a new kitchen. They did not pay for the assembly of the kitchen (except for savings, there was another reason - we wanted to install sockets in the countertop, but were not sure that the assemblers would agree at all and would be able to do this). At first, everything was simple - the frames were assembled quickly using the instructions.

But I had to tinker with the countertop, since its length was 3 m long and 6 cm thick, and this at a solid weight. The tabletop was to be sawn into 2 parts. We did it with a jigsaw.

Actually, the photo shows how we coped. The next step: cut out a place for the sink and hob. This is done very simply, the main thing is not to make mistakes when marking up. What does that require:

• Drill
• Drill 10 mm for wood
• Jigsaw with a saw for wood
• Attentiveness
• Once again mindfulness
• And again attentiveness! (Measure 7 times!)

Having made the markings for the hob, drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm in each corner (this is necessary so that the file from the jigsaw can easily enter there). Next, take a jigsaw and carefully cut it out along the markings. After all the sections are treated with sanitary silicone sealant and the hob is installed. Done, you can connect.

Now washing. You also make markings and carefully make 10 mm holes around the perimeter. Like that:

And just cut it out neatly. Further, you process all the sections with the same sealant and install the sink, to which it remains to attach the pipes.

In absolutely the same way, we installed the sockets in the countertop. Since we laid the wiring in advance, there were no problems with the connection.

After everything was installed, we connected the hob, oven, installed the mixer in the sink and connected all the pipes to it. By the way, if you are not sure that you can handle the pipes, it is still better to call a professional plumber.

The wall in the area of ​​the “apron” was painted with oil paint, so it had to be primed with a special primer Betonkontakt (blue in the photo). If we had not done this, but started gluing the tiles directly onto the paint, then the glue would very quickly move away from the surface and fall off along with the tiles.

When the soil was dry, we proceeded to the tiling. The glue was used in the middle category, since the surface is vertical, and in some places even with high humidity (in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe sink).

We were looking for a grout of the desired shade for a long time. Not found. As a result, we bought a yellow grout and added a green color scheme to it. We took risks, of course, but everything turned out just fine! When the grout was dry, the seams were treated with a special moisture-proof impregnation. Then they made a neat edging using simple plastic corners:

There was no more strength left on the ceiling, so they simply glued the ceiling tile made of foam. The option is simple, but outwardly quite attractive, especially when ceiling plinths have taken their place.

In this topic - a photo history of repairs in a two-room apartment - "Khrushchev", you can evaluate what was and what has become. The author with the nickname Andruha 338. Further - the original text of the author.

Good day!
So far, as they say, the memory is fresh, I want to share the overhaul with partial redevelopment of the 2-room Khrushchev.

I won't tell you how many times we asked ourselves the question ... .. after the purchase -))) .... "Why did we buy it?", "What to do about it?" and "how to live here?" ……… so many nuances emerged that were not initially visible.

So, the original (repair was only during construction)

Digging the vastness of the Internet in order to determine the redevelopment option for ourselves, we settled on one option, which, by the way, we saw here-)))

however, then they abandoned this option, it was a painfully risky idea of ​​a bedroom with no windows and a scanty nursery ... ... ... the bedroom was removed

Considering that we did not encounter such an action as redevelopment and did not initially know many of the subtleties ... ... what can be done during redevelopment, and what cannot be ...……. any company to which we applied for the loot to legitimize the desired redevelopment option in the BTI, refused, after we reported that the apartment in the svao of Moscow
Having weighed all the pros and cons, we decided to make minimal changes in the layout, which, of course, is the end result. had a positive effect on the volume of work and, most importantly, on the cost of the entire venture (otherwise it would have flown into the pipe) and settled on the traditional version

which they brought to life

and as the saying goes, I WASTE-)))

5 containers of rubbish, rubbish of old walls, floors, etc. were taken out.
We got rid of the decoration of the load-bearing walls along the pyremeter, as well as the walls of the sanitary unit, as much as possible, all the old internal engineering went into the container.

Implementation of the scope of work on the construction of new interior partitions according to the plan

All the walls are leveled with plaster and the walls are channeled for air conditioning and electrics

The wiring for the power outlets was laid in the floor, the light was thrown in the ceiling .... all the wiring was routed into the 36th modular box.

Installation of hot water supply, cold water supply systems and sanitation ... ... arrangement of a sanitary cabinet

The floor in the entire apartment was poured along the lighthouses, they paused for a week and a half so that the floor grabbed.

Further, finishing plastering work on all walls, arranging the ceiling and gypsum board (the kitchen-corridor ceiling was lowered by 4 cm and completely sewn up with sheets behind which the wiring was hidden), boxes and gypsum cortex were made in the rooms around the perimeter for spotlights and wiring

We lay the tiles on the floor of the kitchen / corridor, as well as in the bathroom / toilet.

In the meantime, we ordered a kitchen, after leveling the walls and plaster.

Wallpaper gluing, laminate flooring and installation of stretch ceilings in rooms, installation of sockets and switches, installation of doors, installation and connection of sanitary ware in the toilet.
Kitchen installation, connection of household appliances, installation of a sink with a mixer and, most importantly, installation of a refrigerator-))))) …………. you can live everything
KITCHEN

Hello dear forum users!
Circumstances so developed that at the present time I found myself in the middle of a semi-finished apartment, the renovation of which I am now completing on my own. In principle, the event is banal.

By occupation, I am not a builder and, naturally, a great many questions arise in the process of work. Acquaintance with this forum turned out to be a great help for me in finding the missing knowledge. However, in such a huge selection of information on this resource, at the same time I often get lost, since there are so many questions that it is not always possible to find answers to them on your own quickly. And time, of course, is running out ..
In this regard, in order not to produce a bunch of small topics, perhaps I will start my own branch, where I will upload reports on ongoing work to the court of a respected community, as well as sprinkle with Lammer questions, of which I have a lot.

To begin with, in fact, a description of the situation.
And the initial data are as follows: an apartment in a new building (monolithic brick high-rise building). The main preparatory work has already been done (rough floors are made, ceilings are ready, walls are prepared for wallpapering and painting, floors are partially made, bathrooms and kitchen are almost ready). Basically, there were areas for finishing and (oh, horror for me!) - electricians. However, in view of the fact that I have never dealt with most of this work, many questions arise - how to do it.
The situation is aggravated by the fact that the financial crisis, unfortunately, did not pass by, and today the task is to complete the repairs with minimal financial investments from the materials available. Fortunately, at least in "well-fed times" they managed to buy materials and everything basic, in principle, is there.

Before raining questions, I will report on the work done.
Unfortunately, the process is progressing extremely slowly, since it is possible to carry out repairs only on weekends.
In a month, since I moved into the apartment with my family, I have already masterfully learned how to lay plywood floors on logs (I made such a floor in the closet and on the balcony), paint, glue for and connect all kinds of taps, taps and other plums. ...

For a professional, of course, this is a "kindergarten", but for me this is already a great achievement!
In fact, we had already managed to completely litter the storage room before I finally found the camera I had lost in the process of moving, so I had time to photograph only the floor on the balcony.

The last couple of weekends we have been doing wallpaper gluing together with my wife. Here, in fact, there are no particular questions. I will clarify, only, from (now personal) experience, that it seems that in our houses the wallpaper in the corners is absolutely impossible to level! Just deduce the level with a plumb line and already dance from it!
They tried to align the first two strips in the corner, so, when the strips were aligned at the top “in the joint”, they got an overlap of four centimeters to the bottom. After that, we begin to lead almost every wall only by level.

Now the questions begin.
I will try to describe them in terms of urgency.

Fungus in a new house - is this possible.
The situation is as follows: in one corner from under the floor (dry screed, asbestos-cement slabs, tiles laid on tile glue), suddenly, some muck, very similar to mold, flooded!
For a month, it has already spread within a radius of half a meter!
A whitish mold, very similar to a fungus (which happens in old houses), appears from the inter-tile slots, through the grout. In the very corner, if you pick it, you can feel some kind of oily liquid. Namely, not water, but an oily liquid. By smell - like, it doesn't smell.
I am completely at a loss - what could it be? There can be no water in this area, since the communications go far enough and if something flowed there, it would be noticeable on the walls or ceiling. (or could water pass under the floor ??)
And the main question - is it possible to somehow stop this horror ??
Is it worth it, at least for prophylaxis, to etch this place with some kind of antiseptic? If so, how?
In general, help! I'm afraid to glue wallpaper in this area, as this muck has crept slightly up the wall.

Aligning the doors.
Since, you see, the house is still walking, two months after installation, some of the interior doors stopped closing. How can this be fixed? (Isn't it really possible ??)

Installation of door fittings.
There is an already installed door frame with a door. Before bringing the canvas to the level of the wall, it is necessary to put an extension about 12 cm wide. How to do this? Do I need to nail, for example, a block under the add-on, or put the add-on directly like that? What should it be attached to? (screws, nails, foam?). And also - the remnants of the parquet are used as add-ons, which are to be laid out.

Insert door handles and door locks. What tricks are there?
In the instructions for the lock, I found a template for cutting holes in the door, and I also read that we need extra tips for a drill with a diameter of 23 mm (for the lock cylinder) and 50 mm (for the handle itself). This will be enough for me, will I need any more tools? (I have a couple of kneaders). What is the general order of inserting a lock?

Well, there are probably enough questions for today. Photos of horror with mold and doors where the accessories need to be displayed, I will try to make and post it tomorrow.

Hello to all. My name is Tucha, and today I will tell you all how I helped to make repairs to my owners.
It all started with an approved mortgage from Sberbank

And so we bought an apartment, if I knew what I was about to, I would run away during the move

These are the gray and sad walls

but such a boring and gray door, remember it

here the owner puts the plumbing. i like to swim

here he is. Name is Andrey

well, now after installing the bathtub and toilet, you can move

we begin to unload our modest belongings acquired in 2 years of their life together with the hostess.

a lot of work, but they plan to make repairs in 2 months ... goofs)

and here is my mistress Tanya. this is our first day at the apartment and we are celebrating housewarming

and here they are going to sleep. I'm shocked

Well, the repair has begun. we demolish the walls, work with a grinder and a punch

we combine a bath with a toilet

everything is destroyed and we begin to build

do not forget to put the invisible hatch

put the bath under the tap, washed, cleaned. eerie sight

and since blogs absorb moisture well, we plastered them with a cement-polymer composition.

and now a new bath has arrived. the owner installed it for 6 hours. equalized and tried)

and then the owner took the tile cutter in his hands for the first time and began to lay tiles

and here we level the floor. and why didn't they make it heated ((

ahh…. where is the toilet ?? I drink water from there!

well, it seems so fun it turns out. guess where you got the fan from

and here they have already begun to make the ceiling.

yes, three months have already passed and then I was sad in full

Well, the bathroom is ready. then I'll show you how beautiful it looks.

and here we begin to make a dressing room.

a piece was torn from the room

the dressing room is ready and immediately some rubbish began to accumulate in it

and this is the hostess pretending to be gluing the wallpaper.

and immediately we laid the laminate flooring and now we will make shelves

sheets purchased at leroy merlin

Here's a dressing room turned out. and not expensive.

Well, since we cut off a piece from the room, now we need to break the balcony.

here everything is just blackened. glue the insulation to the foam, and then plaster these sheets)

and yes, there are never too many outlets.

insulation is also placed on the floor, it is also glued to the foam. and then plywood is glued to it. and we are already putting laminate on the plywood

Well, if you say a lot, it means a decrease. here we align the walls

well, one room is ready for wallpapering

after a hard day, you can watch TV

there is no way without a washing machine. even jump into it yourself

well, the room was also plastered and wiped down. move on to the living room. she is both the hall and the kitchen

well, who will be the first to find a cat?

to say p… .ts is to say nothing.

we begin to make a box. They did not want to do it, but the wiring in the apartment had no voltage in the sockets. fake wiring. I had to hide all the wires in the box.

poor neighbors. 250 holes in the ceiling in one evening.

and the wall is perfectly smooth. I had to smear it with concrete contact and make badges, otherwise the tile just slipped

this is a flower for mistress Tanya

and I also had to put 4 bags of plaster on the ceiling. 4 see slab drop

and this is my favorite closet. it has a lot of goodies for me.

and here the ceiling is already painted. the kitchen was brought in, but they still had no horse lying around

Well, it's already more decent than it was. there is hope

like this. the owner is glad. now he can eat even more

and this is electrical wiring, we decided not to cut the walls, but just glue the cables to the wall, and then put a couple of cm of plaster

we spent the whole day with the flap and ended up lighting up our phones

I can see well, but for some reason the owner is swearing

Here you go. everything is ready and hasn't even killed anyone.

network wires hang from below. there is a hub under the flap. each room has 2 power outlets. and yes, they all came in handy.

and here the projector will hang.

how i love the warmth intel i7

the owner puts the hood in one mug. says I only get in the way

our kitchen is located in the place where the hall should be. and that is why they set up such a shaitan machine. for pumping water. 4 years normal flight

move on to the second balcony. the principle is the same. see the photo

there are already plastered sheets of insulation. we glue plastic panels on it

well, let's see what happened. exactly two years have passed

bathtub and sink made of cast marble of Russian production.

already in the eyes of the first time rippled

problems with white plumbing. there is a white tap, there is no white soul. we buy everything in parts. what we find white - we buy.

and this is the master's bedroom, they won't let me there

the battery on the balcony, of course this is not correct, but we do not tell anyone. and the balcony is well insulated

the owner sewed the curtains himself. and I helped him to put puffs, but he did not check it out

dressing room is a good thing

while this is my room. no one lives here yet

The curtain is made of a bar and painted with acrylic varnish.

the machine is in the room. later there will be a large wardrobe.

remember the front door? its owner trimmed with bamboo and painted. built a lock on the remote control and decided not to change it))

but this joke I like the most

nush favorite site) but mostly movies. sorry 3d glasses won't fit on me (((fall off

the sofa was specially taken based on its weight, so that with a slight movement of the hand it turns into a cinema seat

and this is such a loop to the TV and audio system. so you can move)

and this we tried the oven, which the owner put on) I have everything, now the owner will write a few more words, and I say goodbye to you. all meow

well, I hope you enjoyed the report. everything that you saw everything was done by me personally. photographed for themselves. just now decided to share with you. about 1.3 million were spent on repairs, but I think this with furniture, appliances and even curtains. And I also want to say thank you to my beloved wife, who steadfastly withstood the entire repair and helped me do it.

a motorized screen hangs behind the box. it is black and opaque. and yes, 2 balconies.

So, I continue the topic started here.

Despite the fact that the house was built in 2000, the bathroom looked like it was from Soviet times. Although, what am I talking about. now in 80% of new buildings, which are being renovated from the developer, just such a repair is. These are painted walls up to the shoulder, and the rest is whitewashed, and on the floor there is a painted screed (in my case, there was some kind of tile on the floor).

In general, I started everything by dismantling everything. Including plumbing, since the wiring was made of steel pipes, although the riser was made of plastic.

While the room is empty, I made notches for laying tiles on the walls. He did it with an ax, it was not very quick and, as it turned out, very laborious.After 4 hours of swinging an ax, my hands ached from habit for 3 days.

Naturally, the first step was to set up a water supply system, since repairs without water, somehow well, will not work at all. The pipes were partially “packed” into the wall, in the place where they crossed the bathroom. And partially replaced the sewer riser. It is plastic and apparently once someone broke it with something. In general, there was a crack on it, which was the source of the unpleasant smell of the sewer.

Well, they haven’t given heating yet. changed the heated towel rail. Standing down to the neighbors, just in case, otherwise, you never know, it will flow even in the ceiling, you will have to open the floor. Fortunately, the granny lives below, and to my proposal, she immediately agreed, especially with such arguments (about a possible leak in the future).

The drop in the floor was more than 25 millimeters. I decided to level it with a self-leveling floor. Before using it, the surface was treated with AXTON deep penetration soil. I used UNIS universal horizon. Judging by the description, it can be used with a layer thickness of 2 to 100 mm. It took 2 bags of 25 kg, but to be honest, I would know that there are bags of 20 kg (and they are), then I would buy them and 3 bags. By the way, the size of the room is 1.7x1.9m.

I liked the material, it is easy to prepare, it dries quickly, it actually leveled itself out quite well (but nevertheless, with a special roller, I helped it spread in the right direction. In general, I recommend it.

Naturally, leaving the pipes open is somehow not comme il faut, and I began to make a frame for drywall, from a regular profile.

Sewn up the whole thing with moisture-resistant plasterboard "VOLMA" 12.5mm. It would be possible to use 9.5mm, but he was reinsured. And of course I made a technological door for revising the meter. It is thoughtfully large so that, if necessary, you can replace the meter or clean the filter.

I treated the floor with deep penetration soil and it is also a waterproofing agent. (I don’t remember what brand, but I remember that it was some kind of black bottle with a volume of 1 liter) It’s clear that it will not hold water, but still we should expect some kind of protection from it. The walls were covered with AXTON concrete contact, all the same, the paint was on the walls and whitewash before. Of course, I was told that this is a necessary thing, but before using it, I could not even think how good it was! Never again will I lay tiles on a surface without concrete contact! The adhesion of the tiles is excellent, the tiles do not float anywhere. For all the walls there were enough jars of 6 kg and there was still left for an “apron” in the kitchen, but more on that in another post.

contrary to many beliefs that tiles should be laid from the walls and from the second row, I nevertheless started laying tiles from the floor and did not regret at all, “shit” the floor, I didn’t shit while laying the walls. I used class 1 ceramic tiles on the floor. Thickness 7mm, size 40x40cm. Production of Shakhty. If I had not taken a cutting machine from a work colleague, I cannot imagine how I would have sawed it. Even with a machine with a diamond blade, the sawing went with a fairly serious effort. Less than a bag of Eunice 2000 glue went to the floor. (Black bag) - I can't say anything bad about the glue, it glues.

On the walls there are tiles of the same manufacturer and of the same series, only “bottom” and “top” class 2 and curbs + inserts “top class”. What can be said by class - floor tiles and wall tiles differ in that. that the genital area is much smoother, in fact, it washes better. Despite the fact that the classes of the bottom and top are the same, the bottom is still rough, in contrast to the top. Tile size 25x40cm.

I don’t remember exactly how much glue left on the walls, but about 5-6 bags of the same UNIS 2000. The walls are just super curved, since this glue allows you to level the walls a little, so in some places the layer thickness reaches 35mm.

in ventilation, installed an electric fan, but as practice shows, it is useless there, it sucks and so, very well. The switch was taken from it to the toilet tank (you can see it in the previous photos)

the ceiling is made of plastic panels. I lowered it a little so that it would be possible to mount R50 lamps.Assuming the questions, why exactly them, and not LED under the GUN5.3 lamp, I answer - I like these particular lamps and I had to go around quite a few stores to buy them! I put 4 pieces and 55W bulbs, now it is as bright as day. With LED, this will not work, or it will work, but you will have to spend many times more money, and my solution costs 73 rubles for a lamp and 42 rubles for a light bulb.

Oh yes, I completely forgot about the door. It is in wenge color with an eco-veneer covering. I had to suffer with its installation, more precisely, with the installation of extras in the direction of the bathroom.

well, in the last photo, already with the placement of plumbing. photo, unfortunately, of poor quality, but at least a little idea will give. On the left you can see a folding tumble dryer. The junction of the bathtub and the wall is first propene, and then smeared with silicone. Stick on masking tape, my hands do not reach, as I will stick, I will take a photo of what happened. I cannot calculate the approximate costs now. If anyone needs it, I will do it by "raising checks"

Photo reports about self-repairs in the apartment

Recently, I have become frequent with laying out reports on the repair of the kitchen, but this time it was not without a kitchen. True, in this report, a loggia bordering on it is used to expand the kitchen.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that some of the work performed in this report (demolition of the balcony block with a window, and I am not sure about the removal of the electric stove to the loggia) are redevelopment and, from a formal point of view, require legalization.

General repair information:

1. Renovation date: presumably summer 2012.
2. Initially, we have: ordinary unglazed loggia adjacent to the kitchen.
3. We want: expand the kitchen at the expense of the loggia and take out the work surface there.

In general, the layout of the apartment, in which the loggia and the kitchen are adjacent, is not so rare. Most often, in such apartments, a loggia is used for storing food, but in this case the solution is different, which attracted my attention.

Not so long ago, I published a photo report about a very high-quality assembly of a kitchen set with my own hands. He quickly became one of the top three views on that site. And now I have found another story on the same topic and I bring it to your attention.

1. Renovation date: summer 2010.
2. Place of repair: Saint Petersburg.
3. Amount spent: 50-55 thousand rubles.

I've learned a lot over the long period of running this site, but mostly in theory. From my personal photo reports, only the repair of the loggia is here. Over the past time, some more small repairs have been made in the hallway / corridor, but good material has not come out of it. And then my hands reached the kitchen. The initial plan was daunting - almost a complete overhaul of the kitchen in a week alone! But in the process it became clear that it was impossible to accomplish this, therefore the work plan was adjusted and the deadline was slightly extended.

• Initially, we have: kitchen 6.6 meters (house series I-605-AM / 12) renovated more than 10 years ago.
• We want: make a major renovation, without renovating the furniture.
• Renovation date: March 2013.
• Elapsed time: a couple of weeks.
• The price of the issue: 17,200 rubles (if everything had been planned in advance the way it was done, it would have been 16,000 rubles).

It is no secret that the housing stock in our country is of a respectable age and we often have to live in rather old houses. There is a natural desire to improve your home, which is realized in the form of a protracted renovation :-) In this case, I want to share a photo report on the renovation in the kitchen of the Brezhnev era. The author of this renovation, judging by his blog, has "golden hands" and makes and repairs not only in the apartment.

• Initially, we have: an ordinary brezhnevka with a very long-standing renovation.
• We want: to renovate the whole apartment, and to start with the kitchen :-)
• Renovation date: early 2011.
• Elapsed time: several months.

Initially, we have: we can assume that an empty kitchen is unfurnished :)
We want: new kitchen set.
Renovation date: for the new year 2006-2007.
Elapsed time: 4 days for the assembly itself, a couple of days to study the information, plus the time to wait for all orders
Place of repair: Moscow.

There is also another not unimportant question about this repair - approximate cost:

1. Facades - 30,000 rubles
2. Chipboard with sawing and lamination - 10,000 rubles.
3. Blum fittings - 12,000 rubles.
4. Other accessories / filling / light / fasteners - 7,000 rubles.
5. Built-in appliances (stove / oven / dishwasher) - 14,000 rubles.
6. Table top - 4,000 rubles.

Total: 77,000 rubles (at prices of 2006-2007) for a complete kitchen set, frankly, not the smallest sizes. For a turnkey comparison, for the same headset they asked for 300 thousand or more.