Front axle gazelle 4x4 DIY repair

The Gazelle is a very popular commercial vehicle in Russia. At its price, it is one of the most affordable deals on the market. At the same time, the car has quite good characteristics - it can carry an impressive amount of cargo or passengers. However, for many, the question of the reliability of Gazelles remains a mystery - some drivers drive such cars and only carry out regular maintenance, while others have to repair it quite often. Apparently, the plant allowed a large number of defects, which negatively affected the quality of the car as a whole. Nevertheless, in Russia there are many workshops that repair Gazelles, and you can always get the right part without much difficulty. Moreover, the cost of spare parts is quite low.

High-quality repairs are the key to a long service life of the unit and will allow you less often to contact the craftsmen later, and mistakes during repairs will lead to the fact that a person will become a frequent guest of a car service.
The gazelle was produced in various modifications. Throughout its history, a large number of models have been produced, designed for completely different purposes. Among them, an interesting version of the Sable 4x4 can be distinguished, which is equipped with all-wheel drive. This machine has become a godsend for farmers, and operation in some regions of Russia has also become much easier thanks to the four drive wheels. However, four-wheel drive is a design complication.

An axle in any car combines two wheels on one axle. In addition, he is responsible for transmitting power to the drive wheels. On an all-wheel drive vehicle, there is also an inter-wheel differential in the axle, and a propeller shaft connects the axle to the gearbox. In addition, for Sobol 4 × 4 cars, repairing the front axle and transmission is a more difficult process than for a regular Gazelle, since, among other additional parts, they also have an center differential.

It is important to always maintain and replace worn-out parts in a timely manner, which will extend the life of the front axle. In general, this component can last a very long time if handled properly. At our service, you can go through the front axle diagnostics and identify all faulty parts. An all-wheel drive vehicle uses a propeller shaft to transfer torque to the front wheels. It is also important to monitor the condition of this unit, because sometimes, when we check the Gazelle 4x4 front axle, the repair of which seems necessary, in fact it turns out that the problem also lies in the cardan. In this case, the front axle simply does not receive enough torque, and the driver begins to feel that the car is unstable. It is of course always important that all bearings are in good condition. Sometimes they wear out and need to be replaced.

It is not allowed to use the machine with broken bearings - after a while this can lead to very serious malfunctions.

When repairing a bridge, when it is already malfunctioning, our specialists will dismantle this part and disassemble it. First of all, they start with troubleshooting. The main components that fail most often are crosses and oil seals. It should be noted that we change the oil seals in any case, since they have a limited service life, and when disassembling the bridge, replacing them will not take much time.But in this case, the owner of the Sobol 4x4 front axle repair will allow him to operate the car for a long time in the future, and he will not need to interfere with the operation of the transmission.

We do not recommend carrying out this procedure yourself. The front axle Gazelle 4x4, the repair of which is sometimes difficult, is better served with the help of special equipment. In addition, experienced specialists have enough knowledge to perform any work with this unit, and without skills it will take a lot of time, and there is no guarantee that everything will be done as it should. Disassembling this unit alone will take a long time. In addition, some parts can wear out over time and stick to each other, such as bearings. Therefore, it is very difficult to dismantle them without special tools. In general, working with a bridge at home is just a waste of time. By paying a little more for the service, you can save a lot of time and effort.

We immediately assess their damage, because it is possible that the parts of the brake system also need to be changed. It's easier to do this right away, while everything is in a disassembled state. It is also important to check the condition of the front hubs - there should be no visible backlash and hum, which is caused by rolling balls inside the parts. While access is open, you can easily change the oil in the main parts. Of course, after repairs, we will definitely pour new fluids into the bridge so that the client does not have to additionally contact the service in order to change the oil. Moreover, the oil perfectly reflects the state of the unit. If it is just dark in color, then this means high productivity, but there is nothing wrong with that. It is enough just to fill in new oil. However, if glitter, chips or deposits are visible in it, this means that mechanical wear of the components is observed in the system, which indicates a malfunction. In this case, we ask customers to contact us again after they have driven about a thousand kilometers. Then we check the condition of the oil. If foreign substances again appear in it, then the need to replace the entire bridge becomes obvious, since under such conditions it will not be able to serve for a long time.

Driving on bad roads, sudden acceleration, slipping - all this reduces the service life of many units, including the bridge. However, if you use the machine carefully and do not impose increased loads on it, as well as regularly check and maintain the main components, then there will be no problems with it. Many are afraid to buy an all-wheel drive modification because of fears that the Gazelle 4x4 front axle will need to be repaired without fail.

However, for long-distance transportation, additional driving wheels are not required. They will not be useful when driving on the highway, but due to the more complex transmission there is a more significant loss of power, which leads to increased fuel consumption.

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d.j.E 22 Aug 2013

Take a newbie! Rear-wheel drive service sable since 2003, bought it for use in 2011.

I bought here on the occasion a bridge, a razdatka and tripe from a 4x4 gazelle, I want to put it on a sable. I’ll ask a bunch of stupid questions along the way.

I started with troubleshooting the bridge. The crosses under the covers are rusty in the trash, the seller gave 2 new crosses, I want to change, at the same time, give up the oil seals.

I watched here on the forum a photo of how it is done with a sable bridge. But gazelles are another story. There is a brake disc under a sandwich of 2 rusty spacers. One fixes the drive splines, the second contains 6 studs for the gazelle wheel. To remove the brake disc, you have to knock out the bearings, nonsense.

In general, as I understand it, changing the crosspieces without removing the drive is not a real task? He began to remove the hub.He removed the cover and the upper spacer with slots, unscrewed 5 bolts through the second spacer and the brake disc Unscrew both nuts by 62, removed and together with the retaining washer, the bearing race is visible.

Factory bearing, good condition, I don't want to kill. The hub cannot be removed. You can't hit the brake disc, hit the wheel spacer with a sledgehammer, it gets crushed, but the hub can't be removed by a millimeter. It is not even possible to drive a mounting plate between the spacer and the brake disc. There are no stoppers anywhere, fixing the hub from removal? Warm up or what to do?

As far as I understand, there is a shaft bearing in the stocking, should it be changed preventively? And in general, somewhere you can look at the photo, how it is done, information 0.

My friend, first remove the brake calipers, there are two bolts for 19, there is no need to hammer anything between the brake disc and the hub, they don't even need to be unscrewed (6 bolts), it is removed as an assembly. Remove the hub, unscrew 4 more bolts and remove the trunnion, on which the hub is fitted with bearings, then pull out the drive to replace the crosspieces. It is necessary to collect there wisely, so that once and for a long time. The wheel bearings and the oil seal are from the rear axle of the GAZelle.

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d.j.E 22 Aug 2013

Not well, I immediately removed the support, I forgot to write. And the hub does not peel off into any. There is all grease with rust, apparently the bearings on it acidified and stood tight. Today I will try to heat it with gas, although it is useless, the bearings have become attached to the inner ring, you will warm up the figs there.

I understood about the pivot, I still had to get to it.

Then try the cover from the hub, which with the slots to screw into place, just put the large nuts inside and tighten it to the hub, the hub should be pulled together, just do not forget to screw the small triangular cap into place.

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d.j.E 23 Aug 2013

Thanks for the advice! Disassembled everything in the evening. The trunnions are some kind of undercut, longitudinal risks-cuts are quite deep, although the bearings seem to be alive. So I understand that buying trunnions is problematic. I think it can take a couple of dozen from the planes, the bearings are tapered, they should be pulled.

The Gazelle car of the AvtoGAZ plant belongs to this class of machines that are used, as a rule, with maximum intensity. Its technical characteristics, in particular, the pivot suspension, provide the Gazelle with a wide range of applications, both for production needs and for personal purposes.

The king pin, as the elements of the chassis, initially have a limited resource, and when operating under loads, it naturally decreases. Replacing the pivots with gazelles with your own hands will significantly reduce the cost of repairing, and also allow the owner to restore the performance of his car as soon as possible.

The rod, which provides the turning properties of the wheel in the car, is usually called the kingpin, and the suspension using axial rods is called the kingpin.

It looks like a kingpin in disassembly

The prototype for the suspension of a car using pivots was the device of a conventional wheeled cart, which were used in the 19th century and used an axial hinge mechanism.

The principle of operation of the pivot suspension is also based on the properties of the spherical joint, which allows free wheel travel and fastening of the hub, thereby allowing the car to perform turns within the steering limits.

Components of the front suspension Gazelle

The main indicator of the stability of the machine during maneuvers is the set lateral and longitudinal angles of inclination of each kingpin, which ensure comfortable movement.

The material for the manufacture of pivots is strong hardened steel, and all cavities that come into contact with it are filled with grease.

See in the video: replacing the pivots with the Gazelle.

The scope of application of pivots in the suspension extends mainly to trucks and medium-duty vehicles, such as the Gazelle, as well as off-road vehicles designed for off-road driving. This is due to the combination of simplicity, reliability and maintainability in this design.

Correct operation and timely maintenance will guarantee a long and reliable operation of the pins in the car.

Before starting to repair the suspension, you need to make sure that replacing the pivots with Gazelles is really necessary.

The following symptoms may be the first signs of a faulty king pin:

1. A metallic sound is produced when a wheel is struck.
2. Beat on the steering wheel at speed.
3. Difficulty turning the steering wheel.
4. Pronounced wear on the outer or inner part of the tire.

We recommend that you see: how to check the malfunction of the pivots on the Gazelle.

However, the presence of these manifestations can be caused by other malfunctions of the chassis, therefore, it is necessary to carry out further diagnostics to localize and clarify the degree of wear of the suspension parts.

To be completely sure that the kingpin in the Gazelle requires replacement, you need:

• raise the car with a jack, ensuring the suspended state of the wheel;
• fix the hub mechanism with the brake pedal;
• shake the wheel in a vertical plane.

This is what a worn kingpin looks like.

The presence of play in the wheel during swing indicates a malfunction of the king pin, which must be replaced.

To repair the pivot suspension on the Gazelle, you must prepare the following parts and tools:

1. A repair kit that contains all the necessary parts, including a new king pin.
2. Reamer for Gazelle 25 mm, as well as a holder.
3. A set of heads, keys.
4. Wheel bearing puller.
5. CV joint lubrication, carburetor cleaner and VD-40 fluid.
6. Pivot grease and thread lock.

See in the video: replacing the pivot with a Gazelle.

It is recommended that both pivots on the axle be replaced as part of the same repair to ensure that the steering is identical while driving.

The front of the car must be hung out by means of a jack and dummy stops, which are placed under the beam, and the wheels must be removed, thereby ensuring the possibility of repair work.

The appearance of the pivot suspension

The replacement technology is as follows.

1. Initially, it is necessary to remove the oil from the bridge.
2. Remove the brake caliper and disc.
3. Having unscrewed the brake shield, the entire drive must be removed as an assembly together with the bearing in the housing.
4. Further, the steering tip and the oil can located below are dismantled.
5. Then the pivot cover, lubricant valve and plug are uninstalled.

Removing the pivot suspension

When disassembling the assembly, it is advisable to process the VD-40 parts, as well as use the appropriate tool. Parts that are difficult to remove are recommended to be heated with a burner or soaked in kerosene. The kingpin itself, as a rule, is knocked out with a hammer from the bottom up. The dismantling of the second part on the other wheel is carried out in the same way.

1. The dismantled parts must be cleaned of dust and dirt by pretreating them with cleaning fluids, and also to visually inspect their condition. All cracked and severely worn parts must be replaced.
2. The installation process is carried out in reverse order using new components.

Parts of the pivot suspension disassembled

In this case, you need to take into account some features:

• pressing of the steering knuckle bushings is carried out using a mandrel, the parts to be installed are lubricated with grease for the CV joint;
• when unrolling new bushings, the technological tolerance is from 0.02 to 0.053 mm, while it is necessary to strictly observe the alignment;
• reaming is recommended to be performed through the old bushing, which is not dismantled, but is left in the steering knuckle;
• when installing a thrust bearing with an anther, it is important to observe the assembly directions, while it is installed so that the boot boom is on top;

See in the video: how to replace the king pin and install the bushings in the trunnions.

Upon assembly, it is necessary to make a complete lubrication and check the assembly. After that, all the parts are installed on the machine in the reverse order, oil is poured into the axle and the wheels are installed.

Subject to the rules and using this technology, repair work can be performed on our own.

Thus, replacing the pivots with the Gazelle is a periodic procedure that ensures the controllability and maneuverability of the car on the road. The presence of a special tool and knowledge of technology will allow each owner to repair their car on their own.

detsky sat pants with straps. We smoke a textbook for peteu about differentials. And we find out from there that the free differential (symmetric) equalizes the moments while maintaining the sum of the speeds of rotation, the blocked, that is, the hard connection - equalizes the speeds of rotation with an unpredictable distribution of the moments. Unclear? Then buy an eye and not get into an all-wheel drive vehicle.

Re: detskiy sat> Then buy an eye and not get into the all-wheel drive vehicles.

It seems that the Oki have already learned to do all-wheel drive. Or am I confusing something?

I translate from literate to understandable.
With an unlocked differential, something that is easier to spin is spinning (front-wheel drive, because it is not loaded with wheels), while the same (no) moment comes to the rear, it cannot move the car essno.
When the differential is locked, it is clear that both axles are spinning at the same speed.
And what is the default driving axle is an interesting question, they said it seems that only LuAZ has such a front axle.

And here is the caddy question. When only one bridge is connected, it turns out that the center differential is blocked? Is it physically blocked in the same way, by the same elements as in manual blocking, or by a separate circuit?

I will clarify the question> If the bridge is disabled, the center differential block the unnecessary load on the unit and its complication

There is permanent rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive. When the PCB is connected and the differential is unlocked, the torque is distributed over the bridges in accordance with the load on them - right? And what is the disconnection of the PP? If it simply unhooks, then it gets zero load, it is alone and rotates, as in the above case. So either it is not just unhooked, but also blocked so that the entire moment on the RFP goes, or the moment goes to the RFP not through the differential, but directly - guess right?

Paavtaryim rear-wheel drive alone - goes directly, without any diffs, only through the gears of the lowering.

A rigidly connected front - also without diffs, just parallel to the rear (well, or through a differential lock), possibly through some kind of smart, like a vutka, controlled or automatic clutch (it turns out what is called a 4 * 4 car, it is a demand, etc.)

machines without differential have no other modes.

Permanent four-wheel drive - here And the rear AND the front go through the differential, thus the moments on the shafts are aligned, but the speeds are unpredictable, only the total is constant.

"disabled front on a car with a differential" this is the very same superselect, politically this mode is equal to the usual rear one, but how the moment is transferred there technically depends on the design.

Dezzkiy sat uasa has a plug-in bridge and no diff, the goat has a permanent drive with a lockable diff.

And where did I write about the jeeps? The name was not so easy there either 🙂
Now IMHO Jeep makes by no means the best SUVs. Chain hand-outs do not add reliability 🙁 What's with the weight distribution is also not very clear - it cannot be fundamentally better than that of any bonneted crook. My car has an engine in the base, and the weight distribution is all the same to hell - I obviously had more on the front end.

Here are the consequences of the front wheel hitting the ditch.We got up on the back together (180 kg in total). The car didn't even try to straighten up. So what can be the weight distribution of the bonnet?

Psychic Ippons work on Mitsubis, their superselect feature is exclusively marketing, for beating drums - "and we already have it! Lovers of constant drive, buy a pair! And lovers of rear-wheel drive, buy a pair too!" In fact, no one really needs it, especially given the lack of disconnecting the front transmission from the wheels, that is, it still turns.

And on Toyota, they don’t worry about such a question at all, they put a normal permanent drive with interlocks on the Kruzak, and sell the result in several times larger quantities.

and on the deal there is no superselect, there is generally a plug-in bridge (it seems there were modifications with a constant, but rarely). And in pachy sports too.

but not samopal? I know for sure that the raid spatsmen put pazherikovskie razdatki (fortunately, the dead pazher are above their heads) in the case, the most that is a garbage-crank, in order to at least just get a permanent drive. Skin-mug-kondeya is there quite regularly and superselekt afftobus nafig did not resist. Maybe only in some very super-grupper-wrapped versions.

Re: The most common deal from '99. So here his Delica has all possible four-wheel drive modes, and you can change them on the go, which is actually called superselect.

A superselect is a completely definite transmission - a caroppka from a pager which has 1) strictly rear 2) 4 * 4 free differential 3) 4 * 4 blocked. A regular karopka does not have either the first or the second mode. And almost any transmission scheme allows you to switch on the go - and the bridge can be connected and blocking, even on the 131st zila and goats.

> By the way, he got me hooked on the Delica idea

she is small. On the one hand, the moshyn is certainly funny (for escort, small technical equipment, etc., an afftobus with good shitty abilities), but on the other hand, nothing goes there.

Re: The most common deal from '99>. So here his Delica has all possible four-wheel drive modes, and you can change them on the go, which is actually called superselect.
>
> superselect is called a completely definite transmission - a caroppka from a pager which has 1) strictly rear 2) 4 * 4 free differential 3) 4 * 4 blocked. A regular karopka does not have either the first or the second mode. And almost any transmission scheme allows you to switch on the go - and the bridge can be connected and blocking, even on the 131st zila and goats.
++ Yes, I put it a little confused. This is exactly the handout there. All three modes, plus lowering in some (I don't remember which ones, but only the back one seems to be missing).

>
Quoted1>> By the way, he got me hooked on the idea of ​​a Delica
>
> she is small. On the one hand, the moshyn is certainly funny (for escort, small technical equipment, etc., an afftobus with good shitty abilities), but on the other hand, nothing goes there.
++ Why small? For a tank repair plant, yes. I am quite suitable for trips to pokatushki with vegetables or as a judge, fishing or hunting trips, taking children to a holiday home and myself to Crimea. I am quite happy with the size of the current Mazda. Three of us went on it with two nights (in the car) and four of us with a boarding house. Everything fits, you can get more junk. At the same time, my salon has never been a transformer, but in the business, most salons can spin and turn. Everything depends on the goals and objectives 🙂
>
> Anton

the four-wheel drive bourgeoisie of our mud do not know the first thing for them - safety, the second - economy and only - the third cross-country ability

we drive out onto the asphalt and quickly unhook the sprockets
and they are on bans on all bridges - and do not buzz.
they have a different mentality

Re: Gazelle 4x4 axle question> When repairing the hub, I removed the flanges from both front wheels that transmit rotation to the front wheels. I tried to get under way and failed.The razdatka was in the "differential lock off" position, while the front cardan was spinning, but the rear one was not. It turned out to get under way only by moving the lever to the "differential lock on" position.
++ Do you understand the meaning of the word "differential"?

> It turns out that I only drove on the front axle, and the drive to both axles is switched on by a razdatka. And by "differential lock" I understood the mode of rotation of all wheels at the same speed to prevent slipping. Low and high gear modes work fine.
++ You understand everything correctly. But it would be better to learn a little theory. In what mode do you drive on the asphalt? With or without blocking? In any case, try to understand how four-wheel drive works. Draw all of its parts on a piece of paper, see which wheel will take which path in the turn. It should become clear why a center differential is needed. and why, when it is unlocked, the bridge that is easier rotates.

> So it should be, or is there something wrong with the razdatkoy?
++ That's right. But it is better to learn the theory in advance 🙂
>

Re: Gazelle 4x4 question on axles quoted1>> When repairing the hub, I removed the flanges from both front wheels that transmit rotation to the front wheels. I tried to get under way and failed. The razdatka was in the "differential lock off" position, while the front cardan was spinning, but the rear one was not. It turned out to get under way only by moving the lever to the "differential lock on" position.
> ++ Do you understand the meaning of the word "differential"?
>> +++ Differential - a mechanism for enabling the wheels to rotate at different speeds a la turn

Quoted1>> It turns out that I only drove on the front axle, and the drive on both axles is switched on by a razdatka. And by "differential lock" I understood the mode of rotation of all wheels at the same speed to prevent slipping. Low and high gear modes work fine.
> ++ You understand everything correctly. But it would be better to learn a little theory. In what mode do you drive on the asphalt? With or without blocking? In any case, try to understand how four-wheel drive works. Draw all of its parts on a piece of paper, see which wheel will take which path in the turn. It should become clear why a center differential is needed. and why, when it is unlocked, the bridge that is easier rotates.
Quoted1>> +++ I agree, my theory is rather weak. Thanks for the advice - I'll try to figure it out in this way. I drive on the asphalt with the blocking off and top gear. I use the lazy one when maneuvering, so as not to burn the clutch, but to slowly maneuver (for example, in the yard or when parking, etc.) and in winter at the beginning of the movement to warm up the bridges at low speeds.
Quoted1>> So it should be, or is there something wrong with the razdatkoy?
> ++ That's right. But it is better to learn the theory in advance 🙂
> >
>> +++ Thank you for your answers. Sorry if something is wrong.

A 4x4 transfer case for a gazelle is a unit that distributes torque from the engine to other drive mechanisms that also increase the number of gears in the transmission.

Transfer case 4x4 for gazelle

The transfer case is a unit that distributes torque from the engine to other drive mechanisms that also increase the number of gears in the transmission.

The device is an integral part of all-wheel drive vehicles. The first transport analogs appeared only at the beginning of the last century. They were intended only for racing on the highway and off-road, and they looked like a passenger car. The public at that time considered the development to be simple pampering. After a number of manipulations, a transfer case was produced that fulfills the tasks of modern analogues.

Based on the method of distributing power between the bridges, the 4x4 transfer case for the gazelle of our time is diverse:

• With an interaxle differential drive, which does not provide for the possibility of forced shutdown of one of the driving axles.Cars with such a box are characterized by the constant operation of the front axle. If it is necessary to increase the passage, the center differentials switch to forced locking.
• With an interaxle differential drive, which provides for the possibility of forced shutdown of the front driving axle. Due to the use of a single main gear, this type has gained such popularity.
• With an inter-axle drive of a blocking type with a manually disengaged second drive axle or with the help of an automatic system when the wheels slip. Cars with such a box when driving on a hard surface provide for the disengagement of the front axle. This condition helps to save fuel and reduce tire wear.
• With non-axial driven shafts. An intermediate shaft is not provided here. Main advantages: compactness, noiselessness, high efficiency.

The 4x4 transfer case is responsible for the distribution of forces on all driving axles of the vehicle. Its additional use is starting and stopping the driving front axle. Basically, a gazelle of this type is characterized by a two-stage gearbox. Its work affects the gear ratio, as a result, the number of gears is doubled.

When starting a direct transmission to a 4x4 gazelle, the first row of gear ratios is introduced, and when lowering, the second. This factor causes the vehicle to travel in a variety of road conditions.

The high cross-country gazelle is characterized by a design that blocks the possibility of engaging a downshift provided the front axle is on. A device of this type makes the rear axle insensitive to high torque overloads.

Transfer case device 4x4 for Gazelle

A 4x4 transfer case for a gazelle is characterized by the following main components:

• drive shaft;
• rear axle drive shaft;
• front axle drive shaft;
• center differential;
• a device that blocks the center differential;
• gear or chain transmission;
• reduction gear.

The torque, as the main acting force, is transferred from the transfer case from the gearbox through the drive shaft. The center differential is responsible for the distribution of torque between the axles. In turn, it causes rotation at speeds with different angular values.

The variety of the center differential for a 4x4 gazelle includes two types:

• symmetrical, characterizing the uniform distribution of torque;
• asymmetrical, characterizing a different ratio of torque distribution.

In order to rigidly hitch the front and rear axles, a differential lock was provided for a 4x4 gazelle.

The task of the chain drive is to transmit torque to the front axle, which includes gears and drive chains.... It happens that the gear drive is replaced by a chain drive. And the all-wheel drive system with an automatically connected type of transfer case has the form of a bevel gearbox.

The crawler gear is assigned the role of increasing torque when driving off-road vehicles. The design of the planetary gear is borrowed here.

Driving on deformable soils usually does not imply the circulation of parasitic power, since the value of the total component of the movement resistance force is decent, and the adhesion of the wheels to the supporting surface is insignificant.

A 4x4 transfer case for a gazelle is characterized by regime operation:

Further modes are differential-oriented.

1. Its unlocking with the condition of the included overdrive. The division of the torque is in the form of a 1: 2 ratio.
2. Blocking with the condition of the included overdrive. The torque split depends on the grip and the surface.
3. Unlocking with the condition of a downshift engaged. The torque distribution is represented by a 1: 2 ratio.
4. Locking with the condition of the included underdrive. The distribution of torque is carried out depending on the adhesion of the tires to the surface. The functioning of the front and rear axles is inseparable. This mode has the highest passability.

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will not go down (at least not as dramatically as expected). ¶

-The leopard caught up with the gazelle and ate it!
-What, right along with the passengers?

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GAZelle rear axle gearbox repair requires precise adjustments and it is desirable to carry it out in specialized services. If you are confident in your abilities, then especially for you we provide step-by-step instructions for adjusting the rear axle gearbox on GAZelle cars. Before starting repairs, read about the device of the gazelle rear axle reducer.

After removing the gearbox, we proceed to disassemble it, having previously clamped it in a vice. We unscrew the bolts that secure the locking plates and remove them.

It is worth marking the bearing caps so that in the future they do not confuse the places where they need to be installed. Unscrew the bolts with a 14 wrench, remove the covers.

We also remove the adjusting nuts and the outer races of the roller bearings.

Inspect bearings for suitability, label each outer race.

Check the backlash in the semi-axle gears, it should not exceed 0.5mm, otherwise the differential box will need to be replaced. Remove the bearing and unscrew the planetary gear.

We knock out the axis of the satellites and take it out.

We take out the drive shaft with the gear from the gearbox housing and knock out the inner ring of the roller bearing with a soft metal drift. We replace the adjusting sleeve with a new one.

Remove the adjusting ring.

Using a punch, it is necessary to knock out the outer rings of the bearings.

We wash over all the details, inspect. Parts must be replaced if they are chipped, cracked, or have shells. We polish the seizures with sandpaper.

Next, we start assembling. If all the parts are the same, then we only change the spacer sleeve and the oil seal. If something was changed on the main pair, then we also change the spacer washer, we select it according to the size indicated on the new shaft. We install a new ring and press in the inner bearing race.

We install a new spacer sleeve on the shaft and put it in the gearbox housing. We put a new oil seal. We put on the flange, tighten it with a new nut.

We collect the differential, put it in place. If backlash was found in the side gears, then thickened washers will be needed. We tighten the covers.

We make a special key for adjustment.

We start adjusting. We wrap the nut from the side of the driven gear until the gap disappears. We measure it with a caliper.

After tightening the second nut, tighten another 1-2 teeth. With the first nut, the gap is adjusted to 0.08-0.13 mm. We tighten both nuts until the distance increases to 0.2mm.

We turn the gear by hand and check the backlash - it should be the same in different positions. Install the locking plates and bolt them. The differential must be replaced if the backlash is not the same.