In detail: philips azur do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Good day, dear members of the forum.
Philips Iron GC-4850 - When turned on, the indicator lights up momentarily and turns off. The ten does not heat up.
After disassembling, I got to the control board, but it is flooded (I suppose to exclude moisture ingress, or just so that it would not be repaired):
The cost of the original board is around $ 50 plus a month's waiting. Therefore, there was a decision to run it bypassing it. If everything is correct, then as I understand it, it was like this:
And now it should be connected like this:
On this connection, a question - but I will ask it at the end of the post.
When I morally realized that the board would be thrown out, then a purely sporting interest appeared to disassemble it and try to diagnose the malfunction more accurately. The forum describes that most often a solid-state relay flies. (in my case it is 899-1A-C T06)
If I understand everything correctly, then he should call ?! But it doesn't ring for me - it turns out to be a break:
Well, now questions, respect. forum users:
1. If you run bypassing the board, is my submission correct?
3. Have I diagnosed the problem correctly? (should she ring there)?
Thank you all for your attention, and especially those who take the time to respond. [/ Img]
Video (click to play).
If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.
Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:
Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.
General device of the electric iron
After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.
For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.
Tools you may need when repairing your iron
All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.
The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew.In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.
Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.
In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.
Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron
As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.
Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.
To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons
Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.
There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.
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Failure of the electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the sole may not heat well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.
In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with an inspection of the cord. To accurately determine whether it is normal or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block will become available, to which the cord is connected. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When touching the "correct" wire, the multimeter should emit a squeak. This means that the wire is intact.
Checking the integrity of the power cord
The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.
For complete confidence in the serviceability of the cord, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in places where there are insulation problems. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It also needs to be replaced if one or both pins do not ring. You may be lucky and you will not need further repairs to the iron.
If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burnt out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heating element that is to blame.
These are the outputs of the heating element of the iron
In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron.On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We transfer the multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), we take measurements. If the numbers on the display are of the order of 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.
The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which the disc is then put on.
This is the thermostat on the iron
Two contacts fit the plate. We install the multimeter probes on them and check the operability (call them). In the "off" position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.
The damage may consist in the fact that in the "on" position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not switched off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they are burnt.
In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by sticking a piece of sandpaper with a fine grain between the contacts and a couple of times and "sliding" along the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.
In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burnt - melted. Repairing the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But this trick is rarely successful. The way out is to replace it.
Thermostat from a different angle
There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron is heated, the bending thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Repairing the iron is also similar - we are trying to return mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.
A thermal fuse is installed in approximately the same area as the thermostat. It stands in case of overheating of the sole of the iron - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.
Iron repair: fuse and its continuity
Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if it is blown out - silence. If desired, you can move the tube, ring it directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, you solder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.
It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And even though the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.
VIDEO If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table) into a bowl with low boron (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.
Cleaning the steam vents on the iron
Put the container with the iron on fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.
Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.
The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Cover the sole with tape so that water does not seep out, but you can also put it in a dish.Pour hot water with vinegar or citric acid inside the sole, let it cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.
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My beloved came and said - the iron is dead. Well, what can you do ... and it happens. We must try to disassemble it and see what is the matter. How to understand new generation irons - I xs. I had to peep on the Internet and carefully take pictures so as not to forget how to collect it ... Photos under the cut.
Remove the transparent plastic cover from the back by picking it up with a screwdriver.
Remove the rubber plug and unscrew the screw.
Remove the plastic cover and contemplate the wires. We unscrew 2 screws of the sole and 2 screws on the power wire (the one that goes into the outlet).
From all sides we carefully pick up and remove the patch handle from the latches. We get access to the light bulbs and buttons on the board filled with epoxy.
We unscrew the scarf. We tilt back the handkerchief with wires.
We twist the water bunker. And we reject it back.
Be sure to take pictures of the terminals, so that later you know how to put it all back together. White paste is like a silicone sealant or hell knows what it is. In general, it is necessary so that the terminals do not oxidize, as it seems to me.
We remove the terminals.
We twist the last spare part. And we take it off.
And here she is! The long-awaited iron sole. We clean very carefully all parts, rubber bands, etc.
Then we begin the painstaking process of assembling obtano….
I got the assembly right the third time. But the iron worked after that! Good luck to you!
Thanks for the assembly / disassembly diagram.
Thank you so much, very welcome. There was no steam supply during ironing and during cleaning, I completely disassembled the iron. In vain, of course. Cause: a hole in the water fill cap is clogged. Like this .
To properly remove the top cover of the handle, you must first remove the filler cap.
I assembled the entire iron easily the first time thanks to the description and photo. Thank you friend.
From the heart bro! I did as you described, right now I will put it back together, let's see what happens. Besides cleaning, I boiled the sole in a solution of citric acid. It should be ok because all the limescale in the steam holes has spilled out. Wow, I'll smooth it right now))))
Thanks buddy!
Somehow I have not had a chance to deal with such a paste, thanks for the information, I will know) Glad that I helped!
Thank you, it helped a lot to shorten the dismantling time!
Thank you, it helped a lot to shorten the dismantling time!
What was the malfunction?
The iron did not turn on, I used your article, I disassembled everything from the photo, secured the contacts well, assembled it, everything works, only 2 screws remain, but I think they are not very important. Thank you very much for your help.
what is this copper disc with a metal tongue on the sole of the iron on top?
It helped a lot in disassembly. I cleaned the "sole" of the scale. I would add a photo of all the fastening screws so that the girls do not have them left during assembly.
Thank you
To fix an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering the device of the iron, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or a heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional units.
In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:
heater;
plug with cord;
thermal fuse;
Temperature regulator.
In order for the iron to start working, you should apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as "Roventa", powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the appliance will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing.
In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermal mode depends on the iron's thermostat, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need values of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.
An important safety component is a fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.
Before you repair the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cable. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.
Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may break and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong clap, shutdown of other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.
For women who are particularly sensitive, situations like this hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond with calls to their husbands, to the Emergencies Ministry and house management. The most correct option is the first, because any man whose hands grow from where they should be can make the iron turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the thing for repair.
The internet is filled with videos on the topic of ironing repairs. Many plots are devoted to the flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, you cannot do without disassembly. To make, for example, repair the Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean up problem areas.
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The heating element in modern designs is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to get a new iron. But first, you should make sure that the problem is in the heating element.
In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is associated with the heating element.
The most common cause of heating element failure is coil rupture. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device terminals at the connection points.
On some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in the other. If the fuse is faulty, then a false "diagnosis" can be made, suspecting that the heating element is malfunctioning.To find out exactly the reason for the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.
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Temperature control is carried out with a round wheel. It is located in the Azur iron and in other models on the body under the handle. When you turn the wheel to the right, the heating temperature increases, to the left, it decreases until the heating element is completely turned off.
The wheel acts on the thermostat by means of a special sleeve or steel angle and is attached to the body with latches. In the Scarlet iron and in other models, it is enough to pick up the adjusting disc with a screwdriver to make it come off.
The operating principle of the thermostat is based on various properties of metals. In the manufacture of this unit, two plates are soldered, made of metals with unequal coefficients of linear expansion. Thanks to these indicators, each plate behaves differently. Outwardly, it looks like this: under the influence of temperature, the common plate bends, causing the circuit to open, and the iron turns on.
To make sure that the temperature regulator is faulty, you will have to disassemble the iron completely.
The handle of the device and the plastic parts of the case are attached to the metal parts with latches or self-tapping screws. Even one manufacturer has many models, and they all have design features. But all species have common points.
To disassemble the iron, it is necessary to examine its sharp part, where there is one attachment point. For example, a Philips iron hides a self-tapping screw under the steam knob. To unscrew the screw, turn the handle all the way to the left and pull up. After removing the adjusting unit, you can unscrew the self-tapping screw. In the Brown model, the screw is hidden under the nozzle cover. You can remove the nozzle by slightly pulling it towards you. After removing it, free access to the screw opens. Other screws or latches are located under the back cover of the device.
After the plastic part of the case has been removed, the iron thermostat should be considered. In cold mode, the contacts must be closed. If there is a special device, it is better to ring the knot. If there is no device, you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, and then turn on the iron to the network.
To set up an iron, you can refer to statistics, which say that 50-60% of malfunctions occur due to the fact that a thermal fuse fails. This unit is disposable and reusable. Fuses of the first group, like kamikaze, are triggered only once. The unit is designed so that when the heating element reaches a temperature of 240 ° C, the circuit is broken. Further operation of the device without additional intervention becomes impossible.
More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse is able to turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to discard the knot and short the circuit. This can be done in different ways:
by soldering;
by crimping a metal rod;
switching power wires.
In each case, it is necessary to achieve reliable contact.
Another common ailment is a problem with the steaming system. Sometimes in the Bosch iron, the button that starts the process is strongly pressed, and steam is not supplied. Repairing a Bosch iron should begin by unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should carefully pull out the two buttons regulating the steam supply up. They are not screwed in and are held onto the bushings by friction. Then you need to unscrew the screw, after which the plastic handle should be easily removed. There are two pumps under the cover: one supplies water to the sprinkler, the other supplies water to the soleplate to create steam. The steam pump needs to be removed. At the bottom there is a ball that sticks to the bottom of the chamber due to scale. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to push the ball into the chamber and assemble the iron in the reverse order.
Whatever iron you have to repair, you must remember about safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device to the network only when it is necessary; do not try to fix the malfunction with wet hands; during repairs, the iron must be installed on a stable, non-conductive and heat-resistant coating.
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If the iron stops heating up and the warranty has expired, you can try to fix it yourself. To do this, you need to know how to properly disassemble the iron. Modern devices differ from each other in basic design, but have slight differences in design. Let's list the components:
Outsole with heating elements.
Water reservoir, steam generator chamber, water main, steam shock evaporator, water and steam nozzles, soft steam pump.
Fill cap.
Buttons - soft steam, steam steam, drip humidification.
Thermostat with a knob for setting the temperature.
Thermal fuse.
Terminal block.
Indicator - on / off.
Power cord with plug.
Power cord hinge.
Electronic board.
The interaction of these functional units ensures the normal operation of the iron.
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Then the integrity of the heating element is checked , which is located in the so-called sole, the heaviest part. The cord is also checked for circuit integrity.
If you already have experience in repair, then you can check the heating element, bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse from the terminal block. To see it you need to remove only the back cover. If the heating element burns out, then you need to decide which is more profitable - to order the sole of this model or buy a new device. A defective bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse can be replaced by yourself.
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Manufacturers, including Philips, are constantly working on complicating the design to make it difficult to disassemble yourself. But craftsmen find a way out in this case too. Here is an example of how to disassemble your philips azur iron:
Remove the back cover (possibly together with the top insert).
Remove the tips of the wires from the terminal block.
Remove the handle.
Remove the water tank, soft steam pump, steam shock and drip humidification.
Remove the casing of the steam generator.
Remove the thermostat cover (if any).
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The electronic control board is located under it. If it is fixed, then unscrew the fastening screw.
In order not to get confused during assembly, it is advisable to record or film the disassembly process ... We remove the wires from the terminal block. We move everything removed to the side. Now you need to remove the temperature control knob. Using a knife and a screwdriver, lift it up. We remove the main part of the handle. Under it there is a steam generator chamber and a sole with a heating element. It is necessary to unscrew two bolts at the back and one at the front and remove the steam chamber.
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clean all water and steam channels of the sole .
It is more difficult to check the electronic board on which the motion sensor is located. Here you need the skill of repairing electronic equipment. If the board is not covered with epoxy, visually determine where the two ends from the sensor are and ring them.
The state of the circuit depends on the vertical or horizontal position of the board. After checking the integrity of the removed parts, you can start assembling the iron in the reverse order.
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An electric iron is one of the most important and simply necessary appliances for life in the house. The progress of human development has stepped forward significantly and now you can quickly and comfortably iron any clothing, regardless of the nature of its material.
But along with this, it happens that problems arise, since the technique may stop working. And therefore you need to know what is the reason, how to fix the malfunction yourself. Experts believe that 80% of problems can be fixed on their own.
First, we will consider and get acquainted with the design of the irons.
So, the main elements are a heating element, a soleplate, an on indicator and a thermostat. Teng is a spiral that heats up when electricity is supplied to the iron. And already this spiral heats up the sole. The indicator is on and indicates that the iron is connected and in working order.
The device heats up to the desired temperature and the indicator automatically turns off and the light of the lamp goes out. There are two lights on the iron: green and red.
How to repair a Philips iron
In this case, green indicates that power is connected to the device. And the red one indicates the operation of the heating element, lit - works, off - off. The thermostat regulates the ironing temperature and can be controlled on the device body.
All devices also have a fuse that turns off the heating element if it happens that the thermostat does not work and the temperature does not fall, but rises. When the temperature drops to a minimum, the thermostat turns on again and the electric current flows to the heating element coil.
When your iron malfunctioned and stopped working, it is important not to rush to buy a new one, but throw away the problematic iron as unnecessary. In most cases, the device can be brought back to working order and the breakdown can be corrected. Only if the heating element of the iron burns out, then nothing can be done and you need to buy a new one. But this does not happen often.
What do you need to cook next when repairing the iron? It is good if the house has several screwdrivers and a device called a tester, as well as a work lamp with a good battery. You may need to disassemble the device case.
The first step is to find the screws that hold the chassis and sole in place. The screws are usually located under special plugs, a container where water is. It is important to be careful not to break the latches of the parts.
The first step is to check if the light on the indicator is on. If not, the problem is with the iron cord. To repair it, you need to remove the back cover and check the connection of the power cable, it may be that some contact is poorly connected.
Then you can use a conventional tester and check the cable is working properly. One end to the power plug and the other to the wires inside the chassis. If it does not work, then cut off 4-6 centimeters of the wire. Attach one end of the tester and the light bulb to the plug, and to the other end - the battery.
If the light is off, then there is something wrong with the cord. You can still cut it off and try again by connecting the tester. In the end, it may be that the cord is not suitable and needs to be replaced. If the light is on after checking, then this means that the problem is not in the cord and therefore it will be necessary to disassemble the iron further, other parts.
Another popular problem that lies in wait for iron owners is a malfunction of the thermostat. The temperature controller is based on a bimetallic plate. This plate is required for the operation of the high-speed circuit breaker.
The temperature regulator works like this: the soleplate of the iron heats up the bimetallic plate; Since the heat expansion coefficient of the two metals is different, the bimetallic plate bends and squeezes the contact plate. Thus, the circuit is opened and the heating element is turned off.
In this video, you will be shown how to fix the problem with the cooling of the iron. We watch and remember!
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When the temperature of the bimetallic plate drops to a certain level, it becomes even again and releases the contact plate. Then the ten is triggered again. It is very important to pay attention to the operation of the thermostat, whether it is broken. You can check this by turning its handle to the extreme positions.
If the contact plates close and open, then he is fine. These plates are the basis of the temperature controller. Otherwise, if you cannot do this, you need to remove the regulator handle by prying it with some sharp object, knife or flat screwdriver. It's not difficult at all. If this tactic fails, it is better to remove the iron body altogether by unscrewing the screws.
When this is done, you can look at the problem from the inside, so it is easier to find a breakdown. Then, use a dial tone to see if the electrical circuit is tripping. One end of the dial is connected to one contact, and the other end to the other. Now, if the light comes on when the regulator is set to the extreme positions, then the thermostat is working properly.
But if not, then you need to clean up the contacts. To do this, you can use a fine-grained emery cloth or even a nail file. Then you need to check the integrity of the thermostat circuit using an electrical tester.
Thermal fuse for iron
Next, you should pay attention to the thermal fuse. By checking it, you can find another malfunction of the iron. To do this, you need to connect the dial wire to it on both sides. If everything is in order with the fuse, the tester's buzzer will start to make a sound, "beep". If the buzzer still does not "beep", then the thermal fuse is faulty.
In 50-60% of cases of iron malfunction, the problem arises precisely because of the blown thermal fuse. There are two types of thermal fuses: disposable and reusable. Reusable thermal fuses are created on the same principle as bimetal (as well as the main iron regulator).
When the set temperature rises, the contact is broken, and as a result the power supply circuit of the heating element is interrupted. After the iron has cooled down, the bimetallic contact closes the power circuit of the heating element again. So, a reusable thermal fuse protects the iron from overheating (except for those cases when the main thermostat did not work) and completely burn out.
Unlike a reusable thermal fuse, a disposable one can fulfill its purpose only once. When the set temperature is exceeded, a disposable thermal fuse interrupts the power supply to the heating element, thus protecting the iron from overheating and preventing the heating element from burning out.
Here, you can watch an interesting video on refrigerator repair.
In this article, you will find interesting information about which company is the best to choose a water heater.
If a disposable thermal fuse has tripped, then the iron can no longer be used, it must be repaired.
The simplest solution to this problem would be to discard this disposable thermal fuse, and short-circuit the electrical circuit in this place. If the main temperature controller is working properly, then the absence of a thermal fuse will not in any way affect the operation and safety of the iron.
In order to short-circuit the electrical circuit in the place where the thermal fuse is absent, it is necessary to solder another fuse or just a wire in this place.
Having applied a lot of work and having checked the main elements, we come to the conclusion that the heating heating element has stopped working. Often it is simply impossible or very difficult to remove it from the device and replace it. And it may not come out very cheap. Therefore, it is best to dispose of the iron in this case. Parts of the iron that are still working, for example, a cord, may still come in handy at home and you can leave it.
It is better to pour only distilled or boiled water into the iron. This will prevent limescale build-up in the steaming system.
Video (click to play).
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