Planar 4dm2 24 DIY repair

АthClimat - Automotive climatic equipment in Moscow. ›Blog› Principle of air heater operation Planar – 4DM2–12, 24

Today we will talk about the operation of the Planar-4DM2-12,24 autonomous air heater, consider its structure and principles of operation. These devices are very useful and practical not only for practically constant life in your car, but also for maintaining the optimal temperature regime in the booth, to ensure the safety of the cargo being transported. There are a lot of applications for such an air heater, the more it is extremely simple to install and operate.

The principles of operation of air heaters Planar - 4DM2-12, 24 are based on the use of the heat of combustion of fuel in a special chamber, which is blown from the outside by the air flow from the fan, heating the useful space. Nothing complicated, right?
But behind such a simplicity of the principle of operation, there is a considerable number of systems performing control, management, indication on all sides of the device's operation. In order for us to better understand this, let's look at a schematic section of the Planar - 4DM2 - 12, 24 air heater:

You can purchase this heater, as well as almost all spare parts for it, in our online store>
Let's start, we will go from left to right, gradually disassembling all the components and telling what they are used for in the process of work.

Fuel pump power harnesses and wires - this is, as the name implies, an element of the heater system that provides power to electrical elements, as well as signal transmission from control panels, control units, etc.

Remote Control - used to control the heater, switch on / off, display errors and operating modes. Planar air heaters of the entire series use two variants of control panels - a conventional one and with an LCD screen. The latter allows for more extensive setting of operating modes, indication of errors and selected parameters. It is usually installed directly in the passenger compartment to provide quick access to the driver to control the heater.

Fuel pump - designed to pump fuel to the heater from the fuel tank and maintain the required pressure. It is controlled by the control unit, it assigns the necessary operating modes, timing and other parameters to ensure the highest performance and stability of work.

Control block - The “brain” of the entire heater system is designed to control and organize the correct operation of the entire heater, it “monitors” the correct operation and combustion of fuel, the temperature regime of the device, preventing overheating and dangerous situations. It also controls and displays errors in the operation of the device through the control panel.

The combustion chamber - an element responsible for the correct combustion of the fuel and its maximum heat transfer to the heat exchanger.

Heat exchanger - a specially designed part of the air heater, which absorbs heat from fuel combustion as efficiently as possible and gives it to the heated air, which is blown through the heat exchanger by a fan.

Fan with duct parts - takes cold air and forcing it through the heat exchanger, thereby heating it and increasing the heater's performance in terms of heating.

Overheating sensor - acts as a kind of fuse, which gives a signal to the control unit in case of overheating of the heater itself, preventing emergency situations.

Glow plugs - is responsible for timely and reliable ignition of fuel.

Flame indicator - a sensor responsible for signaling the presence of a flame in the combustion chamber.

The process of starting and operating the air heater Planar 4DM2-12,24

The "Planar" autonomy is an air heater developed by Russian specialists, which is manufactured in Samara. The range of these car heaters consists of four devices (Planar 2D, Planar 4DM2, Planar 44D, Planar 8DM), each of which is available in two versions - 12 and 24 Volts. Even in severe frosts, such an installation can provide an optimal air temperature in the vehicle interior. First, we will briefly consider the device and the principle of operation of the heater, and then we will study all the Planar errors (fault codes) and their decoding.

Autonomous heaters "Planar" are equipped with a power regulator and a timer. The installation can work autonomously at all stages. The electronics starts the ignition only if the various components are in good working order and the required conditions are met. Therefore, you should not worry about the safety of using the device.

The main components of the "Planar" autonomous system:

• block with control panel;
• a heating element;
• fuel pump.

Heaters from this manufacturer operate on the principle of supplying outside air to the heating compartment. During the combustion of fuel, energy is released that heats this air. Only then is hot air supplied to the vehicle interior.

To select the optimal power, a special regulator is used with the ability to be fixed in a given position. After the user selects the optimal operating mode, the heater will independently maintain the set temperature.

The basic principle of the "Planar" autonomous system:

1. Purging the combustion chamber.
2. Heating up the glow plugs to the required temperature.
3. Supply of the optimum air / fuel ratio to the working chamber.
4. Combustion of the air-fuel mixture.
5. Switching off the spark plug after stabilization of the temperature mode selected by the user.

We decided to publish the Planar autonomous system malfunction codes in the form of four tables. A specific heater model is indicated in front of each of them, which will help you understand what the problem is in your case.

Here's a thing: the car has been standing for a year already, it naturally clogged and smoked, cleaned it, put it back in place, we start it, but it does not start, as it thought with white smoke and smokes, due to errors, the peephole blinks 2 times. It is either there is no fuel or there is a problem with the air pipes, but there is no problem with either. The exhaust pipe was also covered in soot, cleaned. Who faced such a problem?

Found the reason for the glow plug! When dialing, it gave the resistance of a new candle when 15 volts were connected, it heated up by 2 mm and started to smoke, i.e. completely burned out.

Heat starters usually work out their cost. Better to put bourgeois, they work longer and there are fewer problems.

Problem with PLANAR-4D, gives error “six”. According to the manual, this error means “malfunction
temperature sensor on the control unit ”What it is there, this
sensor? It is written that you need to replace the entire control unit. Where is it worth? Officials don't want to share information.
Thanks in advance for the answers.

The K1019ChT1 sensor is located on the control unit on the back of the board, where the connectors are. Small round in a metal case.

Planar-44-D24 began to blow twice as cold in the middle of the night, although both the pump and the fan were running at full power. I wanted to clarify that when you twist the candle, there is a mesh with a hole at the bottom. Is that how it should be or is it burned out? And are there any nuances in the installation of the main grid, that around the candle, there are two “types of holes” in it, they need to be somehow oriented in relation to the fuel inlet? There is nothing in the instructions on this topic, just hammer with a mandrel until it stops and that's it.

There should be a “hole” at the bottom.But there should be no holes on the sides. And also take out and clean the burner well (for sure, the coked heat interferes with the passage of fuel and check the flow of the fuel pump)

Thank you, but about the side holes, I explained a little differently. Here are these holes from the inside, why are they needed:

Or does this shell have to be pulled out after installing the mesh? If not, then when you insert the mesh, how should they be positioned in relation to the fuel inlet, was it not for nothing that they were made?
The entire burner was changed 2 months ago. the fungus inside the burner has fallen off. Now they were dismantling everything clean there, the feed is easily blown through. Only here the mesh did not want to crawl out under any circumstances, I did not apply force, tk. there was no new mesh. If the new burner comes with a mesh, then the mesh is also 2 months old. The fuel supply remains, the consumption was not checked in two cycles, so we looked at what was splashing and that's it. They write that these pumps are of shitty quality and after a year they can be changed, tk. the plunger is worn out. By the way, after everything was collected, a liter of gasoline was poured into the tank for half a tank of diesel fuel (the temperature outside was about 0 degrees) and the autonomy began to warm up better. Although on the same diesel fuel, I cooked half the night as expected. The pump could not suddenly die. Before that, I worked without problems for a year after installation.
And another question, did I see somewhere that with a mesh in the kit comes a plastic strap for pressing, is it like that or does it have to be bought separately?

+ 1-how to put it all the same? Most interesting, and nowhere is it written. As for your problem, if the burner was changed 2 months ago (by the way, when the burner cokes (not the mesh), it is not the passage of fuel that worsens, but the supply of combustion air, it is necessary to ignite, but this is not your case), then it and the mesh are MOST OF ALL alive, then the fuel supply could decrease, check the pump. and when it (the car) was new, everything worked on it. this is iron, everything is possible, I will say more - with one shitty dressing you can “screw up” any (!) stove so that you cannot do without disassembling and cleaning!
ebershpecher D2-D4, it won't suit you

Everything is correct with the holes to the fuel inlet, check the fuel pump - so that the grid is clean at the inlet, pour kerosene with diesel fuel 50/50, do not pour gas

Planar 44D-24M. Who tried to measure a candle when it was heated, what is the voltage on it? I've already measured 6.6V with two different cartoons, but somehow for 6.6 it glows brightly but weakly for ignition. What should be the operating voltage there. I understand that there is a PWM and I cannot adequately measure cartoons. The board is filled with some kind of sealant, I can't understand the circuitry.

I answer my own question, is there 31-32V frequency of 50 Hertz per candle, but is there not enough weakness for the heat? who will tell you the parameters of the candle? how to check, if you connect the candle to the power supply, then at 24V it is almost white.

Good evening everyone! No one will tell you what key is for controlling the fuel pump on Planar-4D? An interesting "jamb" - when turned on, the engine starts to turn, then the glow of the candle, in general, everything is as it should be, but there are no pulses on the pump, errors on the pump, accordingly, also does not. I sort of found it (the key is that), but the inscription is illegible, the top line is generally incomprehensible, at the bottom it is like 4246 G. The search did not give anything suitable

Who repaired the blowers?

Dear “master”, I won’t be surprised if “there can be a lot of things”. (12-24v, etc.)
BUT, have mercy on those who read your post and be a little more professional - indicate not the “4D” type, but the model. (see Rules).

“No pulses” (light bulb, oscil.) Or “no sounds”?

I'm sorry

Planar 4D-24. I checked and, excuse the expression, control, and, as you put it, “no sounds”! The circuit to the fuel pump is in order. Yes, the overheating sensor is also short-circuited, as expected, but there would have been another error.

This is not an “expression”, this is an attempt to “extract” a little more information ..from "Hair dryer - no impulses .."

PS: 99% of “our” components are “Made in PRC” - the bottom line, as a rule, is the date of the batch.

The top line is there at all. Don't get it! Like first S, two digits separated by a "space", I don't remember which ones, I'll look tomorrow if I can figure it out.
About

Well, here are not complete fools gathered, and I'm trying to cling to them. I will not breach - I did not look at the pulses with an oscilloscope, but even without this there are many ways to check, both for sound and for light 🙂

try a magnifier and UV light sometimes helps in reading such lettering on components, and play with the angles of the beams and lenses.

Only psychics - something scattered.
Here is someone "violet" - someone else's, wasted time.
Moreover, tomorrow they will come “what-where-when”, with questions - “the cheyta buzzes and does not puff, and on the side is a blue pipe. guess? “.
Therefore, it is better to read and follow the Rules than to argue about "must-do".

as far as I am aware, the candle is fed for a short time about 30v then 12 and 6 kopecks, check only 12v, they are the same that on 12 and 24 volts

Enlighten us where 30V comes from. For example, I also love botany! The butterflies are beautiful there. Electronics is not ours. It’s true.

The site is not yours 100%. You've got a wrong number.

Also OFF
- Sorry, we are not readers, we are “writers”!
- And six months between posts is not a period for us. no need to rush!

PS: At the request - openly.

Message from Mihail:
Thank you, but about the side holes, I explained a little differently. Here are these holes from the inside, why are they needed:

Or does this shell have to be pulled out after installing the mesh? If not, then when you insert the mesh, how should they be positioned in relation to the fuel inlet, was it not for nothing that they were made?

The holes remained from the very first structures, through them air was supplied to the candle, later the structure was changed, but the holes in the screen are still being made.
When installing, the holes must NOT be located opposite the fuel connection, all fuel must be on the grid

Air is supplied to the candle through the annular channel in the candle fitting and the gap between the end of the candle or sleeve for 4DM2

Hello. I turn on the heater, in any mode, it starts up for a long time, gradually increases the speed and heating temperature to maximum and suits Tashkent in the cabin, does not react to temperature control. Who faced this problem? Planar 44D-12v

Electronic control panel? Does power control work?

The planar is an autonomous heater that was invented by Samara specialists. The lineup includes 4 types of devices, each designed in 12 and 24 volt versions. The design is designed to provide a comfortable temperature for a person in the cab of any vehicle, even in severe frosts. But she, like any installation, can fail. Knowing the Planar fault codes, you can start repairing.

The heater has a voltage regulator and a timer. Continuous work in stand-alone mode is possible. The ignition is started by electronics only if all the requirements are met and the components are in full serviceability, so there is no reason to worry about the safety of the structure.

The main components of the Planar:

The principle of autonomous operation is to supply air from the outside to the heating compartment. This air heats up the energy that is generated by the combustion of the fuel. Thereafter warm air enters the car interior, van or bus.

To set a certain power, you need to fix a special regulator in a given position. After the vehicle owner selects the desired temperature, the heater will maintain it independently in autonomous mode.

The advantages of using air heaters:

• low cost;
• low fuel consumption;
• work is set by temperature or power;
• when the engine is turned off, very little electricity is consumed during long periods of inactivity of the machine;
• does not make a strong noise;
• due to the brushless motor, the service life is increased;
• design diagnostics is carried out automatically.

The lineup includes 4 devices - 2D, 4 DM, 44D and 8 DM.

The error codes of the Planar heater are different for each device. Knowing how they are deciphered, you can understand the cause of the malfunction and begin to eliminate it.

Error codes Planar, 3 kW dry dryer 2D have the following meanings:

Codes of Planar 4D and its modifications:

1. E 13 - the mechanism does not start. Reasons: the fuel has run out or is of poor quality, the pipeline is clogged, the candles are poorly heated, the opening of the combustion chamber is clogged.
2. E 01 - overheating: t in the heat exchanger above + 250 ° С.
3. E 08 - flame is interrupted: malfunction of the pump, indicator, leakage of the fuel line.
4. E 09 - malfunctions of the spark plugs: open circuit, short circuit, malfunctions of the control unit.
5. E 05 - the flame indicator does not work: short circuit or open circuit.
6. E 04 - temperature sensor malfunction.
7. E 17 - the fuel pump has a malfunction.
8. E 12 - high voltage more than 30 V.
9. E 15 - voltage is less than 20 V.
10. E 10 - the electric motor does not pick up speed: there is strong friction between the bearings.
11. E 16 - insufficient ventilation of the cooling chamber: malfunctions in the control unit, malfunction of the air blower or flame indicator.
12. E 27 - Motor stands still: bearings or rotor are worn out.
13. E 28 - independent uncontrolled rotation of the motor: overheating of the power supply.
14. E 02 - sensor t is more than + 55 ° C.