Darin's stove does not work; oven repair do it yourself

In detail: Darin's stove does not work; oven; DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Message m4x1k »13 Mar 2018 00:42

transfor, thanks for the answer.
The circuit is needed, because there is an assumption that the owner poked and misplaced the terminals. I want to be sure that everything is connected correctly.

It is possible to switch the switch to one illumination in the cabinet, but it does not work even in this position.
Everything points to the regulator, but it looks without defects at all, nothing is melted, the springs are in place. I blame the owner that he did not fit the terminals correctly.

Message transfor »13 Mar 2018 00:50

Thanks to such a versatile energy as electricity, the popularity of electric stoves is growing. This site has an article on how to connect an electric stove, and this page describes common problems, methods of identifying and eliminating them.

In many cases, a home craftsman or an ordinary user can make repairs to the electric stove with his own hands, without resorting to expensive specialist services.

Electric cooking

Regardless of the model of the electric stove and the type of burners used, the identification of the cause of the failure of the electric stove should be carried out according to the following algorithm:

Check with a voltmeter for the presence of a supply voltage (it is possible that the circuit breaker on the stove connection line has tripped, the wiring is damaged, or the outlet is faulty;
Make sure that the plug and the power supply cord are in good working order - the glow of the control lamp or electronic indication on the control panel automatically excludes this malfunction;

Disassemble and check the power outlet

Troubleshooting the electric stove

Video (click to play).

The task of any repairman is localize the problem... Having gone through this algorithm step by step, you can repair the electric stove with your own hands, having a small set of tools available and having limited knowledge in electrical engineering.

The most important condition on which not only the successful repair of the electric stove depends, but also the safety of the master and those around him, is knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering and electrical safety. You also need to be confident in your abilities - some measurements will have to be made with the voltage turned on.

From the tools for disassembling the body of the electric stove, you will need screwdrivers with suitable tips, perhaps a set of keys, pliers. For work inside the case, depending on the detected malfunction, you will need a soldering iron, wire cutters, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

Repair tool kit

Sometimes it is possible to identify a problem only by visual inspection (carbon deposits on the contacts, or a soldered wire). But, practice shows that in most cases it is impossible to repair an electric stove without measuring instruments.

Inspect the connections to the terminals

The most acceptable would be to use a multimeter - a multifunctional measuring device, which should be used by any master dealing with electrical engineering. In some cases, you can get by with a voltage probe and a homemade continuity from a light bulb and a battery.

If the mains voltage is normal, and the stove suddenly stops working after switching on, then it is worth checking the outlet itself - perhaps it does not correspond to the power, or the contacts are worn out, and they spontaneously bend during the heating process.

There are cases that in electric stoves with mechanical regulators and burner power switches, the control lamp burned out long ago, and the stove itself stopped working properly much later. At this stage, without starting to disassemble the case, it is possible to identify a malfunction in the switches, including various burners and switching modes their work.

The two burners of the electric stove do not work

If it is found that some of the heaters are working, albeit not at full capacity, then the malfunction of the power cord can be excluded, and you need to look for problems in the switches or in the spirals of the burners.

It is unlikely that all burners will burn out at the same time (although this is possible if all heaters were running during a power surge). Therefore, if there is no response to manipulation of the switches, the voltage may not be supplied to the controls.

Since electric stoves and hobs come in a variety of shapes, sizes and designs, there is no way to describe them all in one article, so the user must independently figure out how to disassemble the case. But the presence of thermal insulation is common to all types of electric stoves and it is necessary to work with it very carefully.

Various designs of electric stoves

If the thermal insulation layer of the electric stove is significantly damaged, its energy efficiency will decrease, as well as the readings of the temperature sensors will change, which will entail the stove's malfunctioning in the future.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to work with glass wool thermal insulation only with thick gloves, and the asbestos dust of the thermal insulation gaskets of old electric stoves is harmful to health.

Having disassembled the body of the electric stove, it is necessary to study the internal structure of the equipment, determine the type of regulators, switches and heaters. It will be very handy to have in stock plate layout... But even without a circuit, knowing the basics of electrical engineering, you can understand the heater control system and identify the problem.

Attention, the following verification methods are contrary to the user's instructions, which prohibit turning on the electric stove when the case is disassembled, so you should be very careful!

If the electric cooker does not work at all, you should check for the presence of voltage at the input of the switches or the electronic control circuit. Imported electric stoves with an electronic control unit are vulnerable to power surges, and very often problems in them are not related to damage to the heating elements.

Electronic control unit for electric stove

If the power cord is OK, and the voltage is on, and the display does not light up, then the internal fuse of the electric stove control unit may have blown. But the indication of a working display does not always guarantee its performance - perhaps there was a breakdown in the power switching relays.

The most accessible way to check the control unit is to check the voltage supply to the terminals of the burner heaters. If the voltage comes in, but the heating element does not heat up, then you need to disconnect the electric stove from the outlet, then disconnect the terminals from the heating elements and ring them.

Read also: DIY repair with 7b

Checking the supply of voltage to the terminals of the coil of the burner

It will be safer if you first attach special crocodile clips to the terminals of the heating elements, which are put on the measuring probes, and then apply voltage. If only part of the burners is working, then it will be more expedient to ring the heaters first, and only then look for an open circuit in the power circuit. It must be remembered that heating elements can have several coils - the heating power is regulated by the way they are connected together.

If a burnout of the filament or a breakdown on the case is detected, the damaged heating element should replace.

If the stove is old, then it is worth replacing the burned out heaters with more advanced and economical ones.The best electric heaters have proven themselves for electric stoves.

If the continuity of the spirals did not reveal any malfunctions in them, then the cause should be sought in the control unit. As already mentioned, heating elements can have several built-in coils, which are switched using switches or electronic relays. In both cases, a large current flows through the contact groups, from which carbon deposits form on them.

Switch for operating modes of the electric stove

Let's say the heating element of an electric stove has two spirals: C1 and C2. For their switching, a three-position switch with three contacts can be used: K1, K2, K3.

Connection diagram of a heating element with two coils

When K3 is turned on, both spirals are connected in series and will work at half their capacity. When K2 is turned on, the C1 spiral will heat up at full strength. The maximum heating will be obtained with the simultaneous closure of K1 and K2 - two spirals will be connected in parallel. All other possible options are meaningless and should be excluded by the switch design itself.

To fix such a switch, you need to disassemble it and get to the contacts to clean them with sandpaper or a thin flat file. You also need to check the tension of the hold-down springs and the fit of the contacts. Cleaning the surfaces, tightening the springs, and bending the contacts will help fix the problem.

Connection diagram for a hotplate with three spiralsTo ensure the versatility of the heating disc, the built-in coils have different power, and accordingly their resistance is different. More details about checking and connecting such burners are shown in the video:

Electric hob heating thermostat

In such systems, heat generation is controlled by alternately turning on and off the electric stove heater when the temperature is below or above the range set by the regulator. You can get acquainted with the operation and connection of such a regulator by watching the video below:

In the event of failure of such a regulator, an identical replacement can be found. But it will be more expedient to install a modern power regulator based on a triac (it works like a dimmer for a lighting system).Since the triac power regulation is carried out by changing the shape of the sinusoidal voltage (cutting off part of the half-wave), then almost any regulator designed for a given power and current, but taken with a reasonable margin, will do. Image - Darin's stove does not work; do-it-yourself oven repair

Triac power regulator

In some electric stoves, the triac is installed together with a heat sink on the board.If the burner is operating at full power and the heating does not adjust, then the transition in the triac is broken, and it must be replaced.

If there is no current at the output of the electronic regulator, you should check the sawtooth bias voltage at the control electrode of the triac when you turn on the operating mode of the electric stove. This test is carried out with an oscilloscope, which is available in special workshops and some masters with deep knowledge of radio engineering.

Sometimes the electronic control unit is OK, but reacts to incorrect readings of the thermal sensors of the heating control system. You need to find out the type of sensor, study its properties and test methods in order to exclude this option for an electric stove malfunction. It is also possible that the mechanical timer breaks down, the contacts of which are also susceptible to corrosion and oxidation.

If the oven turns off spontaneously during cooking, then there can be only one reason for this - failure of the thermostat... Regardless of the type of thermostat, it is replaced with a new identical part.

Long-term trouble-free operation of the electric oven is possible only if the requirements set out in the instructions for use of the products are observed, and taking good care of her after every cooking... In this case, it is recommended to wash the oven chamber with warm water with the addition of a small amount of dishwashing liquid. At the end of the oven treatment, the inner surfaces must be wiped dry.

Important! When cleaning the glass surfaces of the electric oven, do not use cleaning agents containing abrasive additives.

Good afternoon to all Tilers! I bought it for my parents, and today I connected this stove. Oven and grill problem. Security system (it would be better if it did not exist). Just like in AOGV - you hold the button until the thermocouple heats up and the core is attracted. This button is tied by 80% of users (with a string, cord, electrical tape, etc.). So it DOES NOT HOLD, even after a minute.
Since I connected myself - there can be no question of a guarantee.
If it's not difficult, tell me what to do?I saw that the thermocouple was very small there! Maybe there is also electronics?sasadf, arrange the topic correctly, otherwise it will be in the trashsasadf hello, since you just bought it, then you call the master under warranty and solve the issue on the spotVAERR I wrote that I connected the stove myself. (This is to the topic of the guarantee) Well, just no luck.Half a year ago I bought and installed a NEVA gas water heater for my parents. Everything is fine, but the temperature indicator did not work. One could have ordered and bought a new one, but as it turned out, there was an elementary Snot on the indicator board. (I found it myself) Since then, there are NO complaints to the column!
Regarding the stove - it was made in 2005 and purchased 3 days ago. I suspect that the contacts there oxidized. I just didn’t want to tell my Parents that not everything is normal with the stove. They are like CHILDREN. He is 83, she is 82.sasadf, I don't know how on Darina, but on other stoves it often happens that the valve handle rests on the front panel and there are not enough microns for the gas control to work. Try to remove the handle and just turn it on (turn and push like a handle) with pliers. If it works, then further adjustment is a trifling matter. I will write how. If not, then call the master. By the way, read the terms of the guarantee - there should be nothing about the mandatory connection by the master. There are still options for how to proceed, but first try to do as I wroteDoes not help! And the oven and grill. I feel that there is some small thing! I’ll say right away I haven’t disassembled the stove yet.And I'm also curious: does the voltage from both thermocouples (oven and grill) come to ONE valve? Or are there two of them? Both do not work. No - most likely the problem is in contacts.If you did not disassemble the stove, it makes no difference who connected it, the main thing is that it was done correctly, no one can deprive you of the guarantee - this is a word about the guarantee.
Sometimes on these devices (gas control) it is necessary to adjust the low flame, so call the master until you have spoiled nothing.I agree that it doesn't matter who connected, the main thing is that the connection is correct.
Only not everyone understands the principle of operation correctly. If you unscrew the large nut where the gas control sensor is inserted into the tap. Just before this procedure, do not forget to turn off the gas on the pipe. The cause of your defect can be both the gas control sensor and what you find in the tap Image - Darin's stove does not work; do-it-yourself oven repair

sasadf, you do this: you call the gas station - you say “I connected the gas stove, come, please, check that this is done correctly” The master arrives. With a smart look and with a big key to the advantage. You give him money for a bottle and he makes a note in the passport that the stove is connected correctly. After that you call the SC.

This (money for a bottle) may not work right now, for example, for example, gorgaz charges more than 300 rubles for connecting (despite the fact that they don't know how to set up, for example, a hob.), So it's unlikely to get off with a bottle

... But you still need to contact them, because otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself.

I didn't write which bottle. Isn't there a bottle for 300 rubles?

sasadf do you want to repair yourself?

Yes I want to! But for some reason it seems to me that the issue is not about the Repair.
I just learned today that a friend has exactly the same problem. (Stove from a completely different manufacturer.) He bought it 2 weeks ago. I also connected it myself.
Maybe they do it on purpose? I remember (for example) that the decimetre block just plugged into the TV did NOT work! There were jumpers to bypass the signal, or there were no jumpers to carry the signal.

And I have known the thermocouple at AOGV 80 and 19 for a long time. I tied it with a string (by the way, I don’t know how in your regions), but our called Masters also simply tied this button.

But in the end, my father insisted that everything was as it should be. And I had to clean the contacts, adjust the position of the thermocouple. EVERYTHING works as it should!

It's all about AOGV.If anyone knows about the stove, thank you very much!

Does the electric stove not work? Let's figure it out! Modern electric stoves of foreign production are not adapted to the intensity of operation of the Russian consumer, they are sensitive to voltage surges, this is evidenced by the most common causes of malfunctions:

1. Shutdown when heating one or more heating elements or continuous operation at maximum power, errors on the display:

Cause: In most cases, these are malfunctions in the constituent components of the electronic control module due to overheating, voltage surges or incorrect connection!

Elimination methods:

Replacing the electronic module (the most expensive option, the price of a new module reaches 80% of the cost of the electric stove as a whole).

Repair of the electronic module (the cost of this method is significantly lower than replacement + prevention of possible breakdowns in the future is being carried out), this type of repair of the hob is as follows:

The hob is removed from the tabletop, disassembled to access the electronic module (control board), then the engineer, using special equipment, diagnoses all the elements of this unit and, having identified the malfunction, eliminates it by replacing the faulty electronic components. After the work performed, the hob is assembled and installed in its original place for testing in all operating modes, after testing the electrical appliance, a warranty card is issued to you indicating the work performed, and recommendations are given to prevent malfunctions typical for this model of the stove.

2. Heating element or element zone not included:

Cause: In most cases, this is caused by long and intensive use of this element, non-observance of the diameter of the dishes, natural production!

Elimination methods:

Replacing the heating element.

A malfunction is diagnosed both visually and by the presence of resistance on the heating element, in the absence of which the heating element is considered faulty and is replaced with a new one.

Replacement of the power switch of the heating element occurs if the heating element itself is in good condition and the supply line is in good condition, it is determined by the presence of a contact, it is corrected by repairing it (if appropriate) or replacing it with a new one.

Defective units must also be correctly diagnosed and, in case of inoperability, replaced with new ones.

An electric oven is the most reliable and practical household appliance. With proper care, the period of its operation can be up to 15 years or more. But over time, this technique can fail, and its parts undergo natural wear and tear.

Very often, users mistake a banal power outage in the network or a violation of the integrity of the cord, plug and socket for a breakdown of the Beko, Gorenje, Indesit or Hansa oven. Before calling the wizard, pay attention to these elements. Perhaps you just need to change them.

Another reason that the oven does not turn on in the electric stove can be considered a malfunction of the energy switch from the hob to the oven or, due to the depletion of its resource, the heating element's spiral burned out. Replacing these parts will restart the cabinet.

Some oven models are designed in such a way that they will not start if the timer is not set. Check the timer setting before contacting a service center.

But the most common causes of oven malfunction are fan failure, malfunction of electrical elements (wires, buttons) due to constant mechanical stress, weakening of the door seals as a result of wear or mechanical damage to the door glass.

The main breakdowns of electric ovens include:

Malfunction in the internal electrical circuit of the oven.To exclude faults in the external wiring, you need to look into the electrical panel, an automatic machine may be knocked out. Check the outlet, plug and cord from the cabinet. If everything is intact, there are no signs of a short circuit, you need to start inspecting the terminal block and internal wiring. The master, using a special device, will be able to check exactly where the circuit was broken.
Power switch defective. Replacement part will be required.
Heating element burned out. The master will check its performance with a special device. Replace with a new one if necessary.

The thermostat is broken. He is responsible for maintaining the desired temperature in the oven set by the regulator. If it breaks down, it needs to be replaced.
The control unit is out of order. He controls and controls the operation of all elements of the plate. If it breaks down, it needs to be replaced.

The most common reason for owners of electric stoves contacting our service center is that the oven has stopped heating up completely or is not heating up enough and does not bake food well. The first step in this case is to check the integrity of the cord, outlet and plug. If any item is defective, it will need to be replaced.
The power switch could also be damaged. It could break due to a short circuit. In this case, its replacement is required.
Backlight bulb burned out. You can replace it yourself.
The oven switches itself off a few minutes after switching on. The reason may be a malfunction of the thermostat, which regulates the operation of the oven, maintaining the set temperature.
The oven cooks food for a long time, the food burns or does not warm up well. Such symptoms indicate a malfunction of the thermostat.
Temperature sensor burned out. With prolonged operation of the oven at maximum heating, the sensor can quickly fail. And setting the regulator to working condition does not start the cabinet operation. Sensor replacement required.
Malfunction of the control board is characterized by the failure to turn on any certain programs, or the complete absence of turning on the device.