In detail: Darin's stove does not work; oven; DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Message m4x1k »13 Mar 2018 00:42
transfor, thanks for the answer.
It is possible to switch the switch to one illumination in the cabinet, but it does not work even in this position.
Message transfor »13 Mar 2018 00:50
Thanks to such a versatile energy as electricity, the popularity of electric stoves is growing. This site has an article on how to connect an electric stove, and this page describes common problems, methods of identifying and eliminating them.
In many cases, a home craftsman or an ordinary user can make repairs to the electric stove with his own hands, without resorting to expensive specialist services.
Electric cooking
Regardless of the model of the electric stove and the type of burners used, the identification of the cause of the failure of the electric stove should be carried out according to the following algorithm:
Check with a voltmeter for the presence of a supply voltage (it is possible that the circuit breaker on the stove connection line has tripped, the wiring is damaged, or the outlet is faulty;
Make sure that the plug and the power supply cord are in good working order - the glow of the control lamp or electronic indication on the control panel automatically excludes this malfunction;
Disassemble and check the power outlet
Troubleshooting the electric stove
Video (click to play).
The task of any repairman is localize the problem ... Having gone through this algorithm step by step, you can repair the electric stove with your own hands, having a small set of tools available and having limited knowledge in electrical engineering.
The most important condition on which not only the successful repair of the electric stove depends, but also the safety of the master and those around him, is knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering and electrical safety. You also need to be confident in your abilities - some measurements will have to be made with the voltage turned on.
From the tools for disassembling the body of the electric stove, you will need screwdrivers with suitable tips, perhaps a set of keys, pliers. For work inside the case, depending on the detected malfunction, you will need a soldering iron, wire cutters, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
Repair tool kit
Sometimes it is possible to identify a problem only by visual inspection (carbon deposits on the contacts, or a soldered wire). But, practice shows that in most cases it is impossible to repair an electric stove without measuring instruments.
Inspect the connections to the terminals
The most acceptable would be to use a multimeter - a multifunctional measuring device, which should be used by any master dealing with electrical engineering. In some cases, you can get by with a voltage probe and a homemade continuity from a light bulb and a battery.
If the mains voltage is normal, and the stove suddenly stops working after switching on, then it is worth checking the outlet itself - perhaps it does not correspond to the power, or the contacts are worn out, and they spontaneously bend during the heating process.
There are cases that in electric stoves with mechanical regulators and burner power switches, the control lamp burned out long ago, and the stove itself stopped working properly much later. At this stage, without starting to disassemble the case, it is possible to identify a malfunction in the switches, including various burners and switching modes their work.
The two burners of the electric stove do not work
If it is found that some of the heaters are working, albeit not at full capacity, then the malfunction of the power cord can be excluded, and you need to look for problems in the switches or in the spirals of the burners.
It is unlikely that all burners will burn out at the same time (although this is possible if all heaters were running during a power surge). Therefore, if there is no response to manipulation of the switches, the voltage may not be supplied to the controls.
Since electric stoves and hobs come in a variety of shapes, sizes and designs, there is no way to describe them all in one article, so the user must independently figure out how to disassemble the case. But the presence of thermal insulation is common to all types of electric stoves and it is necessary to work with it very carefully.
Various designs of electric stoves
If the thermal insulation layer of the electric stove is significantly damaged, its energy efficiency will decrease, as well as the readings of the temperature sensors will change, which will entail the stove's malfunctioning in the future.
It must be remembered that it is necessary to work with glass wool thermal insulation only with thick gloves, and the asbestos dust of the thermal insulation gaskets of old electric stoves is harmful to health.
Having disassembled the body of the electric stove, it is necessary to study the internal structure of the equipment, determine the type of regulators, switches and heaters. It will be very handy to have in stock plate layout ... But even without a circuit, knowing the basics of electrical engineering, you can understand the heater control system and identify the problem.
Attention, the following verification methods are contrary to the user's instructions, which prohibit turning on the electric stove when the case is disassembled, so you should be very careful!
If the electric cooker does not work at all, you should check for the presence of voltage at the input of the switches or the electronic control circuit. Imported electric stoves with an electronic control unit are vulnerable to power surges, and very often problems in them are not related to damage to the heating elements.
Electronic control unit for electric stove
If the power cord is OK, and the voltage is on, and the display does not light up, then the internal fuse of the electric stove control unit may have blown. But the indication of a working display does not always guarantee its performance - perhaps there was a breakdown in the power switching relays.
The most accessible way to check the control unit is to check the voltage supply to the terminals of the burner heaters. If the voltage comes in, but the heating element does not heat up, then you need to disconnect the electric stove from the outlet, then disconnect the terminals from the heating elements and ring them.
Checking the supply of voltage to the terminals of the coil of the burner
It will be safer if you first attach special crocodile clips to the terminals of the heating elements, which are put on the measuring probes, and then apply voltage. If only part of the burners is working, then it will be more expedient to ring the heaters first, and only then look for an open circuit in the power circuit. It must be remembered that heating elements can have several coils - the heating power is regulated by the way they are connected together.
If a burnout of the filament or a breakdown on the case is detected, the damaged heating element should replace .
VIDEO If the stove is old, then it is worth replacing the burned out heaters with more advanced and economical ones.The best electric heaters have proven themselves for electric stoves.
If the continuity of the spirals did not reveal any malfunctions in them, then the cause should be sought in the control unit. As already mentioned, heating elements can have several built-in coils, which are switched using switches or electronic relays. In both cases, a large current flows through the contact groups, from which carbon deposits form on them.
Switch for operating modes of the electric stove
Let's say the heating element of an electric stove has two spirals: C1 and C2. For their switching, a three-position switch with three contacts can be used: K1, K2, K3.
Connection diagram of a heating element with two coils
When K3 is turned on, both spirals are connected in series and will work at half their capacity. When K2 is turned on, the C1 spiral will heat up at full strength. The maximum heating will be obtained with the simultaneous closure of K1 and K2 - two spirals will be connected in parallel. All other possible options are meaningless and should be excluded by the switch design itself.
To fix such a switch, you need to disassemble it and get to the contacts to clean them with sandpaper or a thin flat file. You also need to check the tension of the hold-down springs and the fit of the contacts. Cleaning the surfaces, tightening the springs, and bending the contacts will help fix the problem.
VIDEO Connection diagram for a hotplate with three spirals
To ensure the versatility of the heating disc, the built-in coils have different power, and accordingly their resistance is different. More details about checking and connecting such burners are shown in the video:
VIDEO
In the absence of a characteristic click of the relay, ring its coil and check for the presence of a control signal. In the absence of a control signal, a breakdown may be in the output stage or in the microprocessor of the electric stove. To independently repair the electronic control unit, you must have its circuit at hand and have knowledge of radio engineering.
VIDEO For heating elements and disk heaters of electric stoves, it is often used stepless power regulator ... In old domestic plates, a regulator on bimetallic plates was used, which reacts to the flowing current. In addition, a temperature sensor or thermostat can be installed that reacts to the heat of the heating element.
Electric hob heating thermostat
In such systems, heat generation is controlled by alternately turning on and off the electric stove heater when the temperature is below or above the range set by the regulator. You can get acquainted with the operation and connection of such a regulator by watching the video below:
VIDEO
In the event of failure of such a regulator, an identical replacement can be found. But it will be more expedient to install a modern power regulator based on a triac (it works like a dimmer for a lighting system).
Since the triac power regulation is carried out by changing the shape of the sinusoidal voltage (cutting off part of the half-wave), then almost any regulator designed for a given power and current, but taken with a reasonable margin, will do.
Triac power regulator
In some electric stoves, the triac is installed together with a heat sink on the board.If the burner is operating at full power and the heating does not adjust, then the transition in the triac is broken, and it must be replaced.
If there is no current at the output of the electronic regulator, you should check the sawtooth bias voltage at the control electrode of the triac when you turn on the operating mode of the electric stove. This test is carried out with an oscilloscope, which is available in special workshops and some masters with deep knowledge of radio engineering.
Sometimes the electronic control unit is OK, but reacts to incorrect readings of the thermal sensors of the heating control system. You need to find out the type of sensor, study its properties and test methods in order to exclude this option for an electric stove malfunction. It is also possible that the mechanical timer breaks down, the contacts of which are also susceptible to corrosion and oxidation.
VIDEO
VIDEO
When you turn on any mode or set the temperature for the Darina Country BDE111 707 oven, the indicator light comes on, but the oven does not heat up, convection does not spin and the backlight does not turn on. What could be out of order, please tell me?
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A permanently installed electric stove is one of the most powerful household appliances that are commonly used in ordinary household conditions. In addition to the hob (burners), it is usually equipped with an oven (oven). Due to improper operation of the oven or for other objective reasons, its component parts are not insured against breakdowns, including situations when the oven does not work in the electric stove. And since a separate niche in the kitchen equipment market is occupied by electric ovens in gas stoves or self-contained ovens, which are produced by most well-known manufacturers (DARINA, Beko, Gorenje, etc.), this issue is relevant for users of any electric ovens.
The purpose and scheme of operation of electric ovens are similar to classic gas ovens. Electrical appliances are also designed for cooking (baking, roasting, grilling). The standard equipment includes baking trays, a tray, racks and guides to ensure safety when removing dishes from the cabinet.
Usually, in electric ovens, two tubular heating elements (heating elements) are installed - upper and lower (for example, in electric stoves of the Lysva series). This is necessary to achieve the optimum temperature, which contributes to an even cooking of food. You can use both heating elements, and one of them, depending on the baking conditions required by the recipe. However, there are also universal ovens equipped with three or four heaters.
They make heating elements made of high-strength alloy steel, which is associated with harsh operating conditions (high temperature). Also, heavy-duty material is required for heaters in ovens where the "Grill" function is implemented, since they are often regularly cleaned with strong chemical agents used to remove grease and carbon deposits.
Heating element for electric oven is not a unified element that fits all models. Each manufacturer (Indesit, Whirlpool, Electrolux, etc.) develops original heater designs, trying to achieve optimal cooking modes for various products (heating, circulation and distribution of hot air inside the working volume of the oven). In addition, many well-known manufacturers equip electric ovens with infrared heaters that turn on in the "Grill" mode (model Hansa fccw5).
There are a large number of heating elements, which are different from each other :
configuration and dimensions;
power;
execution option (single or double-circuit);
purpose (grill, top, side, bottom, etc.).
The upper heating elements are especially diverse. The design of the bottom heaters is much simpler. As a rule, they are single-circuit and have a simple configuration.
The electric oven has a fairly simple design. In this regard, the list of malfunctions encountered during its operation is small, and they appear such symptoms :
the oven does not turn on, the backlight and indicators do not work;
the backlight and indicators turn on, but the heating is insufficient;
the oven does not heat up, although the indicators and lights are working;
spontaneous shutdown of heaters.
The appearance of malfunctions can be caused by various reasons, but most often they are caused by unfavorable operating conditions of the electric oven (high temperature, contamination of the working surfaces during cooking, high current, etc.), which contributes to wear and tear of switching devices, drying out and damage insulation of electrical wires and other breakdowns. The presence of certain symptoms helps to determine the malfunction and eliminate its cause in the shortest possible time.
A kitchen electric stove equipped with an oven belongs to the category household electrical appliances of increased danger. When working with such devices, you must follow the safety rules to avoid electric shock.
Important! To eliminate the simplest malfunctions that occurred during the operation of the electric stove, you must have certain skills in working with the tool used during electrical installation and locksmith work. When starting to repair the oven, you must disconnect it from the supply voltage.
If, when turned on, the electric oven does not show signs of life (the backlight and indicators also do not work), the troubleshooting begins with checking the power outlet ... The electric stove, and therefore the oven, can be connected to both single-phase and three-phase networks, depending on the model.
In the presence of three-phase network the voltage is measured between each phase and the working neutral wire (
220 V), as well as between all phases (
380 V). If the electric stove is connected to single-phase network , then the measured voltage between the phase and the neutral wire should be
After making sure that there is voltage in the power outlet, similar measurements are carried out on input terminal block of the electric stove ... To do this, plug the power cord into an outlet. If there is no voltage at the input terminals, the cause of the malfunction is the power cord, which must be replaced. Next, visually inspect the condition of the terminals and contact connections. Electrical wires are docked using contact connectors, to which they are attached by crimping (crimping). In this case, the connectors must be firmly attached to the terminals. In the presence of backlash, contact is broken, the surface of the parts is oxidized, and the connection eventually disappears. Having found defects, they are eliminated.
Advice! When restoring contacts and replacing wires, it is prohibited to use soldering and insulate the joints with electrical tape. Under the influence of high temperature, such compounds are rapidly destroyed.
In cases where the oven lighting and all indicators are functioning, and the cabinet itself has stopped working (heating), the cause of the malfunction is most often the failure of the heating elements. They are checked using a tester (multimeter) by ringing. If the resistance measured at the terminals of the heaters is in the range from 10 to 100 ohms, then this indicates their integrity and serviceability. If the tester detects an open circuit or the resistance of the heating element tends to zero (short circuit), then such the heater must be replaced . It is necessary to change a burnt-out part only for a completely similar one both in technical characteristics and in design.
If during cooking it is not possible to achieve the required heating temperature, and the backlit indicators work properly, then cause this may be faulty:
fan;
thermostat;
mode switch.
In addition, it is also possible simpler defects for example, a loose door or a broken seal. Such malfunctions are detected by an external examination, and are eliminated quite easily by replacing the seal and / or adjusting the latches (latches) and door stops.
Thermostat and mode switch - these are quite complex electromechanical devices, which most often cannot be repaired. You can make sure that they are working properly by ringing the contacts with a tester. If in this case burnt joints are found, then they are smoothed to a shine with fine-grained emery paper. Burnt wires also need to be replaced. When ringing the mode switch, you must check the wiring diagram. The serviceability of the thermostat is checked in the same way. In this case, in a cold state, its contacts must be closed.
Non-working fan must be disassembled and carefully inspected. If a breakdown of the bearings is found, then the entire device is changed to a similar one. But sometimes the breakdown can be eliminated by simply lubricating the rubbing parts.
The operation of heating elements installed in the oven of an electric stove (Ariston or other brands) is controlled by a thermostat (thermostat). Structurally, it can be:
mechanical (as in the "Dream" electric ovens);
electromechanical;
electronic.
failure of the thermostat ... Regardless of the type of thermostat, it is replaced with a new identical part.
Long-term trouble-free operation of the electric oven is possible only if the requirements set out in the instructions for use of the products are observed, and taking good care of her after every cooking ... In this case, it is recommended to wash the oven chamber with warm water with the addition of a small amount of dishwashing liquid. At the end of the oven treatment, the inner surfaces must be wiped dry.
Important! When cleaning the glass surfaces of the electric oven, do not use cleaning agents containing abrasive additives.
VIDEO
Good afternoon to all Tilers! I bought it for my parents, and today I connected this stove. Oven and grill problem. Security system (it would be better if it did not exist). Just like in AOGV - you hold the button until the thermocouple heats up and the core is attracted. This button is tied by 80% of users (with a string, cord, electrical tape, etc.). So it DOES NOT HOLD, even after a minute.
I saw that the thermocouple was very small there! Maybe there is also electronics?
sasadf , arrange the topic correctly, otherwise it will be in the trash
sasadf hello, since you just bought it, then you call the master under warranty and solve the issue on the spot
VAERR I wrote that I connected the stove myself. (This is to the topic of the guarantee) Well, just no luck.Half a year ago I bought and installed a NEVA gas water heater for my parents. Everything is fine, but the temperature indicator did not work. One could have ordered and bought a new one, but as it turned out, there was an elementary Snot on the indicator board. (I found it myself) Since then, there are NO complaints to the column!
sasadf , I don't know how on Darina, but on other stoves it often happens that the valve handle rests on the front panel and there are not enough microns for the gas control to work. Try to remove the handle and just turn it on (turn and push like a handle) with pliers. If it works, then further adjustment is a trifling matter. I will write how. If not, then call the master. By the way, read the terms of the guarantee - there should be nothing about the mandatory connection by the master. There are still options for how to proceed, but first try to do as I wrote
Does not help! And the oven and grill. I feel that there is some small thing! I’ll say right away I haven’t disassembled the stove yet.
And I'm also curious: does the voltage from both thermocouples (oven and grill) come to ONE valve? Or are there two of them? Both do not work. No - most likely the problem is in contacts.
If you did not disassemble the stove, it makes no difference who connected it, the main thing is that it was done correctly, no one can deprive you of the guarantee - this is a word about the guarantee.
I agree that it doesn't matter who connected, the main thing is that the connection is correct.
sasadf , you do this: you call the gas station - you say “I connected the gas stove, come, please, check that this is done correctly” The master arrives. With a smart look and with a big key to the advantage. You give him money for a bottle and he makes a note in the passport that the stove is connected correctly. After that you call the SC.
This (money for a bottle) may not work right now, for example, for example, gorgaz charges more than 300 rubles for connecting (despite the fact that they don't know how to set up, for example, a hob.), So it's unlikely to get off with a bottle
This (money for a bottle) may not work right now, for example, for example, gorgaz charges more than 300 rubles for connecting (despite the fact that they don't know how to set up, for example, a hob.), So it's unlikely to get off with a bottle
I didn't write which bottle. Isn't there a bottle for 300 rubles?
sasadf do you want to repair yourself?
Yes I want to! But for some reason it seems to me that the issue is not about the Repair.
And I have known the thermocouple at AOGV 80 and 19 for a long time. I tied it with a string (by the way, I don’t know how in your regions), but our called Masters also simply tied this button.
But in the end, my father insisted that everything was as it should be. And I had to clean the contacts, adjust the position of the thermocouple. EVERYTHING works as it should!
It's all about AOGV.If anyone knows about the stove, thank you very much!
1. Shutdown when heating one or more heating elements or continuous operation at maximum power, errors on the display:
Cause : In most cases, these are malfunctions in the constituent components of the electronic control module due to overheating, voltage surges or incorrect connection!
Elimination methods:
Replacing the electronic module (the most expensive option, the price of a new module reaches 80% of the cost of the electric stove as a whole).
Repair of the electronic module (the cost of this method is significantly lower than replacement + prevention of possible breakdowns in the future is being carried out), this type of repair of the hob is as follows:
The hob is removed from the tabletop, disassembled to access the electronic module (control board), then the engineer, using special equipment, diagnoses all the elements of this unit and, having identified the malfunction, eliminates it by replacing the faulty electronic components. After the work performed, the hob is assembled and installed in its original place for testing in all operating modes, after testing the electrical appliance, a warranty card is issued to you indicating the work performed, and recommendations are given to prevent malfunctions typical for this model of the stove.
2. Heating element or element zone not included:
Cause : In most cases, this is caused by long and intensive use of this element, non-observance of the diameter of the dishes, natural production!
Elimination methods:
Replacing the heating element.
A malfunction is diagnosed both visually and by the presence of resistance on the heating element, in the absence of which the heating element is considered faulty and is replaced with a new one.
Replacement of the power switch of the heating element occurs if the heating element itself is in good condition and the supply line is in good condition, it is determined by the presence of a contact, it is corrected by repairing it (if appropriate) or replacing it with a new one.
Defective units must also be correctly diagnosed and, in case of inoperability, replaced with new ones.
An electric oven is the most reliable and practical household appliance. With proper care, the period of its operation can be up to 15 years or more. But over time, this technique can fail, and its parts undergo natural wear and tear.
Very often, users mistake a banal power outage in the network or a violation of the integrity of the cord, plug and socket for a breakdown of the Beko, Gorenje, Indesit or Hansa oven. Before calling the wizard, pay attention to these elements. Perhaps you just need to change them.
Another reason that the oven does not turn on in the electric stove can be considered a malfunction of the energy switch from the hob to the oven or, due to the depletion of its resource, the heating element's spiral burned out. Replacing these parts will restart the cabinet.
Some oven models are designed in such a way that they will not start if the timer is not set. Check the timer setting before contacting a service center.
But the most common causes of oven malfunction are fan failure, malfunction of electrical elements (wires, buttons) due to constant mechanical stress, weakening of the door seals as a result of wear or mechanical damage to the door glass.
The main breakdowns of electric ovens include:
Malfunction in the internal electrical circuit of the oven.To exclude faults in the external wiring, you need to look into the electrical panel, an automatic machine may be knocked out. Check the outlet, plug and cord from the cabinet. If everything is intact, there are no signs of a short circuit, you need to start inspecting the terminal block and internal wiring. The master, using a special device, will be able to check exactly where the circuit was broken.
Power switch defective. Replacement part will be required.
Heating element burned out. The master will check its performance with a special device. Replace with a new one if necessary.
The thermostat is broken. He is responsible for maintaining the desired temperature in the oven set by the regulator. If it breaks down, it needs to be replaced.
The control unit is out of order. He controls and controls the operation of all elements of the plate. If it breaks down, it needs to be replaced.
The most common reason for owners of electric stoves contacting our service center is that the oven has stopped heating up completely or is not heating up enough and does not bake food well. The first step in this case is to check the integrity of the cord, outlet and plug. If any item is defective, it will need to be replaced.
The power switch could also be damaged. It could break due to a short circuit. In this case, its replacement is required.
Backlight bulb burned out. You can replace it yourself.
The oven switches itself off a few minutes after switching on. The reason may be a malfunction of the thermostat, which regulates the operation of the oven, maintaining the set temperature.
The oven cooks food for a long time, the food burns or does not warm up well. Such symptoms indicate a malfunction of the thermostat.
Temperature sensor burned out. With prolonged operation of the oven at maximum heating, the sensor can quickly fail. And setting the regulator to working condition does not start the cabinet operation. Sensor replacement required.
Malfunction of the control board is characterized by the failure to turn on any certain programs, or the complete absence of turning on the device.
In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to take into account some rules during operation:
Before cooking in the oven, give it time to warm up. As a rule, it heats up to the desired temperature in 3-7 minutes, depending on the selected mode. Only after warming up can the dish with food be placed in the oven.
You do not need to open the oven door frequently during cooking. This not only leads to heat loss and lengthening of the cooking time, but also to rapid wear of the thermostat and other cabinet parts.
Do not place cookware on the bottom of the oven during cooking. This can lead to burnout of the lower heating element.
When cooking for a long time (more than an hour), it is recommended to slightly open the oven door.
Systematic observance of these simple rules will significantly lengthen the operating time of the kitchen appliance.
Modern kitchen appliances are quite complex devices that make life easier for their owners. And it is not always worth saving on calling a foreman to repair equipment. Self-repair can not only aggravate the existing malfunction, but also aggravate the problem. And if, in the event of a breakdown, the oven could still be repaired, then after do-it-yourself repairs, the once repairable part completely fails.
The specialists of "Polite Service 5+" have extensive experience in repairing electric ovens of various brands.
When leaving, each foreman has a full set of necessary original spare parts and special equipment for diagnostics.
Before the repair, a full diagnostics of the kitchen appliance is carried out.
All repair operations are guaranteed.
The master will go for repairs to any area of Moscow, Moscow region and St. Petersburg.
You can leave a request on the website by filling out a special form, or by calling 8 (495) 228-42-82.
Our working hours are from 7:00 to 23:00 without breaks and weekends.
I bought this stove on the recommendation of my mother, who has been using 2 gas stoves of this brand for a long time and successfully. They have been working for her for a long time and she has no problems with them. And finally it's time to change the gas stove for me. At my mother's insistence, I bought the same company, but a different model.
Mom's stoves are ordinary, and I took myself with auto-ignition.
The stove is very compact and very well suited for a small kitchen. And our kitchen is exactly that. Slab dimensions (width, depth, height) - 51 - 51 - 85.
We brought it ourselves in a light car, its weight is about 39 kg.
The stove is four-burner. She has 2 large and 2 small burners, located crosswise.
There is an auto-ignition button (auto-ignition goes only to the burners and does not turn on the oven). In order to monitor the state of the dishes being prepared in the oven, there is a button to turn on the backlight in the oven.
The oven door is transparent, the gas stove cover is also (but there are also the usual ones - white), so much more beautiful than with a white one.
At first I wanted to take a stove with a grill function, but then I changed my mind, since all my friends who have ovens with a grill have nothing to do. And that's all, having tried the grill once, they don't make it anymore. since then all this is difficult to wash.
I keep the pans in the oven. There is a utility compartment underneath where you can store your kitchen utensils.
The oven baked just fine. My pies didn't burn, didn't stay soggy. They were delicious and my husband just gorged on them. BUT the oven broke down literally a few months after the purchase.
She just stopped holding fire. It turns on, burns for several minutes and then goes out. And the gas is coming.
A warranty technician was called in and repaired. Then she broke again. My husband insisted that we take her back, but I left for the village for a long time and the stove remained at home.
After the 4th repair, I gave up all this work, and the master who repaired it said, since it began to break down, then everything is useless and such a breakdown will occur constantly.
Now it is broken again and I don’t fix it anymore. My husband wants pies and insisted on a new stove, but I feel sorry for the new money, because this burner works well.
I had to buy a bread maker, because in addition to bread, she also makes muffins (as well as yogurt, butter and jam). The husband is happy so far.
Video (click to play).
So not a very good stove. Based on my experience, I cannot recommend it.
