In detail: do-it-yourself pneumatic ratchet repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The principle of operation of a pneumohagakert
Types of faults
Disassembly of the pneumatic wrench
Repair of pneumatic impact wrench
Lubricant for pneumatic impact wrench
Conclusion
The pneumatic wrench is an indispensable tool for working with threaded connections. It is widely used in car services and numerous construction works. Perfectly tightens nuts and loosens tight connections.
The design of a pneumatic impact wrench is quite simple, but at the same time it consists of many details incomprehensible at first glance. Often, the parts of the mechanism have sufficient strength for a long service life and fail only due to wear or increased stress. Most of these problems can be detected at home without the need to contact a specialist. How to determine the location of the breakdown and fix the malfunction, we will tell you in this article.
To understand the reason for the breakdown of a tool, you should understand how it works (fortunately, the mechanism is very simple here). The pneumatic wrench consists of a fitting to which the air hose from the compressor is connected. Next is the start button, which directs the air flow into the cylinder with the rotor and blades, spinning high pressure. The motor transmits rotational movements to the stop, where the attachments for tightening the nuts are installed. If the impact wrench, then between the stop and the rotor, the impact mechanism is located.
For greater clarity and understanding of the wrench device, below are photos and videos of the tool in analysis.
Breakdowns or malfunctions of the nutrunner can be caused by wear, damage or severe contamination of its mechanism. There are many video faults, below we list the most common ones.
Video (click to play).
Low power even at maximum speed and high pressure.
Speeds or reverse are not working.
The instrument is warming up
The chuck does not rotate
Increased noise and vibration
Parts such as bearings, rotor blades, valves, springs, impact cams, gaskets, and speed control can be the cause of these problems. Depending on the level of damage to the part, it can be repaired or replaced. Let's take a look at how you can bring your impact wrench back to life.
Usually, this process does not cause any particular difficulties, due to the simplicity of the tool design and the minimum number of unscrewed elements. The first thing to do in order to get to the “guts” is to unscrew a few bolts on the back cover with a hexagon. After unscrewing, remove the cover with the gasket and the speed regulator. Having gained access to the main mechanism, we carefully remove it from the case, be sure to remember the sequence of parts. If you are afraid to mix up the parts when assembling, shoot the disassembly in a photo or video.
After taking out all the parts, the first thing we need to do is evaluate their appearance. Parts must be lubricated, free from rust and oxidation. Next, we need to look at the mechanism for chips. If parts are damaged, they must be replaced. You can read the name of the pneumatic wrench parts in the picture above.
If your tool has been out of use for many years and before the malfunction it has not been used for a long time, then perhaps the cause of the breakdown lies in banal corrosion and rust formed on the mechanism for a long time of inactivity of the tool. The solution to this problem may be elementary cleaning of parts with subsequent lubrication.Even if this method does not return your tool to work in order to work in the future, it should not be dirty and without lubrication.
The tool may not function or function improperly even with a clean, lubricated mechanism. In this case, the cause of the malfunction lies clearly in the breakdown or wear of a certain part. Here you should carefully examine each component for chips, cracks or abrasions. More attention should be paid to the bearings and rotor blades, as these are the most prone to mechanical damage.
You should also carefully inspect the cylinder block and make sure that the rotor blades fit snugly against its walls. This happens when the wrench runs for a long time without oil, as a result of which the rotational force decreases significantly. If there is a clear backlash, you have 2 options for repairing the pneumatic impact wrench: installing a new block or grinding the old one. Grinding is required on the machine for a perfectly flat surface.
The service life of any power tool largely depends on the quality of lubrication of its parts. The easier the mechanism is to operate, the less wear and tear will occur. If you want the wrench to serve you faithfully for more than one year, follow the basic rules for maintaining the tool.
To add oil to the wrench mechanism, you do not need to disassemble it. It is enough to add about 8-10 drops of grease to the tool nozzle where the air hose is installed, then start and let it idle for 30 seconds so that the oil is quickly distributed over the parts. This procedure should be repeated every 3-4 hours during continuous operation, as well as before putting the tool away for storage.
If you use the tool all the time, adding oil every 4 hours can become a chore. To eliminate unnecessary distractions from your workflow, install a wrench oiler (lubricator) that will deliver oil gradually as you work. This method is more convenient and provides constant lubrication of parts, just remember to add oil to the lubricator itself.
Health does not really allow you to strain the nuts to twist, and my hands itch, so I want to buy a pneumatic ratchet in the garage like this Has anyone had the experience of spinning a car with pneumatic ratchets, is it useful?
Unfortunately, friends / acquaintances have no experience in this regard. The purpose of buying a ratchet is to turn most of the nuts and bolts in the car not with your hands. It is clear that she will not unscrew the hub nuts? but what about the common Japanese auto 12/14/17/19 nuts / bolts?
a pneumatic wrench-pistol is ordinary, as in a tire changer, it is clear that it will turn everything off, but they are far from everywhere crawling. more precisely, you can count the places on your fingers where they can crawl.
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afpf (22 July 2014 - 10:22) wrote:
like so! and what about the air pressure in the system, we can be in trouble,
maybe it is not assembled correctly !! here it would be necessary to look at it!
Post has been editedDrumnik 1:22 July 2014 - 10:29
Repair of pneumatic guns, rifles, pistols can be carried out independently. This will require care and accuracy when disassembling the device and manipulating parts, replacing them. During repair work, it is possible not only to restore weapons that are in disrepair, but also to improve the quality of their work, in comparison with the original state.
Features of repair of parts of pneumatic weapons:
Air rifle repair
In addition to performing work with the help of which the repair and modernization of pneumatic weapons is carried out, immediately after its purchase, adjustment of the rear part of the butt is required. This element can be moved from side to side within 1.5 cm.
To customize the sight and the ability to adjust the weapon for yourself, and also after replacing this element, it is necessary to twist the screws located nearby. The settings are changed after each shot fired from a distance of 10 m from the target.
This element often wears out in models that have been used for a long time. (for example, in a Makarov air pistol). Sometimes situations occur that only rubber rings remain completely suitable for use from the drive.
You can independently perform a radical upgrade of weapons by making a new drive:
These rules will also come in handy when upgrading PCP and Glacier pneumatics, more about it later.
Often, replacing the drive helps to update the operation of the old weapon, which no one expected to function. Thanks to this method, it is possible to quickly and easily repair and upgrade pneumatic weapons.
If you bought yourself a pneumatics, you should definitely purchase a high pressure pneumatics pump.
Read about the types and names of pistols here.
For information on how to shoot a sniper rifle correctly, see: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2522/obuchenie/snajperskaya.html
If any of the elements are installed incorrectly or do not fit well together, severe air leakage occurs, which degrades the performance of the entire system. The main problem leading to depressurization is the work of the rammer.
It has special rubber rings that fit snugly against the surrounding external and internal parts. If they are not installed, you should cut them out yourself and install them into the system. They are invariably present in modern weapons.
The condition of the rubber rings should be monitored regularly. After about 1500 shots have passed, they begin to let air through. As soon as this imperfection is noticed, you should immediately replace the rubber elements with new ones.
Review material about the air pistol Drozd, read here.
Air spring
A suitable spring is purchased. When buying, you don't need to pay attention to its length. Only diameter and elasticity matter. When reinstalling, sometimes it becomes necessary to shorten this element. For this, the required number of rings is cut off.
If the owner is not satisfied with the power of the weapon that the manufacturer has given it, drastic changes will be required regarding the boring of the heel counter.
In this case, more space is left for the spring by cutting a layer of metal from the inside of the backdrop. Usually the maximum thickness of the cut layer does not exceed 1.5 cm, sometimes a little more.
To enhance the effect, you can sharpen the teeth on the cocking lever if a ratchet is not provided for a particular type of weapon. These manipulations can only be performed when modernizing the metal structure. If it is necessary to increase the area for the spring with a plastic backdrop, you will have to replace it with a metal structure, otherwise a person risks breaking the weapon.
See also the material on how to handle Diana air rifles here.
Air rifle repair, see the video:
Air pistol thrust ring
This element consists of a piston and a sleeve, which are fixed by a thrust ring. If the structure is in good condition, then the gap between them is minimal, with the free passage of the piston in the liner. It is desirable to minimize MO (dead volume), but it is impossible to eliminate it by 100%.
If the MO becomes too large, for example, as a result of flattening of elements from high pressure, it will be necessary to replace the ring.
The new must be firm and elastic enough. The cross section is preferably square. Unlike a round one, it completely fits into the grooves, so it practically does not stretch or deform.
During the systematic pumping of the lever, an extra hole appears in it. It must be removed by inserting a specially made bushing.
Parts are made from steel. If the manufactured element is larger than the hole, then it is mechanically increased to an even larger size.
This part is attached to the base by welding or soldered. The resulting bearing will have a sliding function, while the lever has a reinforced and reliable support.
To prevent the outer arm shaft from being excessively bent, it is necessary to replace the front pipe plug, making it close to the diameter of this element.
This element provides a secure fixation of the storage chamber. When intensive pumping is performed, a significant load is imposed on all devices, so a small protrusion on the pipe may not be enough to hold the accumulator. If something goes wrong, you can make and install the retaining ring yourself.
It is made of steel. Outside and inside diameters are matched to the surrounding objects. To ensure the highest functionality, a small cut is made using a standard file. Holes are made in the thickness of the ring wall.
They are kept small and symmetrical. They serve to guarantee accurate fixation of the ring and prevent any movement. Studs are driven into the holes, reliably protecting the structure from any displacement.
Repair of a pneumatic pistol, see the video:
Small faults can be rectified by yourself. This is done quickly if you adhere to the following recommendations:
When the seal begins to leak air, it is easiest to simply replace it. When this is not possible, you should not postpone the repair of the weapon. It is enough to put a lining of cardboard or foil under it. To install this element, you need to pull out the seal for a while.
To check if the piston ring needs to be replaced, it is necessary to withdraw the piston itself until a clear visibility of this rubber element is revealed. You need to drop a little spindle oil on the ring. After that, the piston closes and returns to its original position. If oil bubbles appear on the surface at the same time, then the rubber ring needs to be replaced.
When a spring-piston air gun is disassembled, it is necessary to lubricate the piston and rubber ring with hyposulfite-molybdenum grease. This will increase the durability of the elements.
When a situation arises when pulling the trigger does not cause a shot, you need to check the quality of the installation of the screw, which serves for the correct functioning of the structure. You should also check the protrusion of the fuse. If it is bent or leans forward strongly, then it needs to be repaired or replaced.
To obtain a positive result from the repair of pneumatic weapons it is necessary to carry out all actions carefully, to know the device of an air rifle.
Before upgrading or replacing any elements, you must first measure their optimal parameters and fasten the devices efficiently.
After upgrading or repairing a weapon, it is necessary to carry out constant care for it, then you don't have to worry about problems for a long time. Also check out our article on how to make a bullet trap for the weapons room. Particularly noteworthy is the material on violations of safety requirements when handling weapons.
Many articles have been written about pneumatic tools, their advantages, device, and operating features. As a rule, the information provided in them is limited to general information and recommendations. In this article, we will try to tell you in detail about the features of the preparation of an air line and the main mistakes made by users.
So, you have acquired a pneumatic tool. What must be done in order for the instrument to serve for a long time and function according to the characteristics declared by the manufacturer, and what should not be done in any case?
It is clear that the pneumatic power tool is powered by compressed air. But what are the basic requirements for this air?
Air quantity should be sufficient for the full operation of the tool.
Carefully read the instructions for the product you purchased. The manufacturer must indicate such an important parameter as the average cyclical air consumption. As a rule, the pneumatic motor is rather "gluttonous". The compressor that you are using must have sufficient capacity, and its receiver must be large enough so that the instrument does not “blow out” it in a few tens of seconds. For example, an attempt to use a wrench with an average cyclic flow rate of 120 liters per minute in conjunction with a household compressor with a receiver volume of 24 liters will not lead to anything good. And a compressor with a receiver capacity of 50 liters is unlikely to allow full use of the wrench. It will last for a few seconds of normal operation. After that, the pressure in the system will drop, and the wrench will not develop the required force. Also, every minute switching on of the compressor operating at the limit of its capabilities will lead to its rate of wear and failure.
Next, you should pay attention to pipes, hoses, adapters and other elements of the system through which air will flow to the tool. It is important that the duty cycle of the channel is sufficient along the entire length of the pneumatic line. The constrictions will limit the amount of air supplied and the tool will operate at half strength. It is desirable that the duty cycle of the channel is not less than the diameter of the inlet of the choke through which air enters the tool.
System pressure... Most pneumatic tool manufacturers recommend setting the system pressure to 6.2 kg / cm². If the pressure is lower, the tool will not deliver the required power. Too high pressure will lead to premature wear of key components and tool failure.
How to set the pressure correctly using the regulator? Connect the tool to the pneumatic line. Using the regulator and pressure gauge, set the system pressure to 6.2 kg / cm². Press the power button of the tool, the tool should be in idle mode. With the tool switched on, set the system pressure to 6.2 kg / cm².
Air quality... The air must be free of foreign matter that could damage the instrument. When the air is compressed, condensation forms inside the receiver. When the compressor is severely worn, oil also enters the receiver. Mixing with the moisture of the condensate, the oil forms an emulsion, which enters the air motor through the pneumatic line and causes corrosion of its parts.
In practice, I had to repeatedly deal with nutrunners arriving at the service center, the interior of which was filled with water and rust. The impression was that the wrench had been drowned in a swamp for at least a year. It is surprising how in such conditions he was able to work for so long.
The filter drier allows you to solve the problem of air purification. A foamed bronze mesh is installed inside the filter. Passing through it, the air gives off moisture and other impurities, they settle in the sump. The filter housing is usually made of transparent material, which allows you to monitor the amount of accumulated contamination. A valve at the bottom of the sump is designed to remove them. It happens that in the presence of strong contamination, the bronze filter element becomes clogged and cannot provide the required air flow rate. A typical symptom will be a drop in the power of the instrument.After starting, the engine starts to work at the proper speed due to the air accumulated in the hose, but after a couple of seconds it slows down, because the filter does not allow air to pass through in the required volume. Remove the filter housing and wash the filter element in solvent, blow it with air. If this does not help, the filter element will have to be replaced. They are sure to be in the assortment of companies supplying pneumatic tools and pneumatic preparation system elements.
Lubrication plays a decisive role when it comes to the operation and life of the pneumatic power tool. Oil not only reduces friction between the moving parts of the engine. Its main role is to remove wear products. When the rotor blades rub against the cylinder walls, the finest dust is formed. It fills in the miniature gaps between the rotor slots and the blades. The blades stop moving freely and the motor loses power. I'll reveal a little secret. When a tool that does not develop power arrives at our service department, an experienced mechanic fills the cavity of the motor with penetrating grease, injecting it through the air supply connection, and leaves the tool for several hours. Lubrication flushes contaminants out of the engine clearances. After that, you need to thoroughly blow out the tool with compressed air, and it is again ready for use. In almost half of the cases, this technique works.
How to properly lubricate the tool? The lubricant is supplied to the tool motor along with compressed air. For this, a device called a lubricator is installed in the pneumatic system. Oil is poured into the lubricator through the hole in the upper part. The transparent body, marked with minimum and maximum level marks, allows visual inspection of the presence of oil in the system. When supplied, the air is enriched with a suspension of oil, which flows through a hose to the tool. In practice, it is convenient to use an air preparation unit called a modular group. It includes a filter drier, lubricator, pressure gauge, pressure regulator and is installed directly in front of the hose to which the pneumatic tool is connected.
It should be borne in mind that with a hose length of more than 10 m, the oil flow to the tool will be difficult. It will require the use of additional linear lubricators installed directly on the inlet connection of the tool.
Use only special oil for pneumatic tools with the appropriate viscosity. As a rule, companies offering pneumatic tools have it in their assortment.
In practice, one has to deal with situations when consumers use engine, transmission oil. It happens that fluids that are not at all suitable are used. Our service center received a wrench, the motor of which was filled with a substance resembling furniture varnish in smell and consistency. High viscosity oil "sticks" the engine blades and does not allow it to develop power. The harm from such a lubricant will be more than good.
With intensive use, it will not be superfluous to additionally lubricate the tool. It is not for nothing that there is an inscription OIL DAILY on the tool handle next to the air supply connection.
Before starting work, inject a few drops of oil (but not too much) through the air inlet. Your instrument will be grateful to you and will serve you for many years!
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Registration Date: 24 Nov 2013
285 posts
Auto: Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2,5 td
Name: Leonid
Gender: Male
City: Kiev, Troyeshina.
Greetings. There was a question of choosing a pneumatic ratchet, advise those who are more knowledgeable in this direction, I do not know which will be better in quality? , plus one percussion second usual. And so the first, JTC3835 pneumatic shock ratchet 1/2 ″ 271 Nm, the second pneumatic ratchet 1/2 ″ reinforced with 244Nm KAAH1620 TOPTUL. Both are, at best, made in Taiwan, but whoever worked or works like that, in short, you need info and advice. Who will advise what with these two options? You cannot hold it in your hands now, it is brought under the order. Everything will need to be twisted, so I plan, it is not selected for something specific, such as only the engine, chassis, in this regard.
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Registration Date: 20 Nov 2008
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Auto: Patrol Y60, UAZ 469 (Was, ehh.)
Name: Alexander
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City: Kiev
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Registration Date: 24 Aug 2007
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Name: Gennady
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City: Rakhiv
It makes no sense to take less than 500 Newtons. Let's say that tightening on the M12 from 90 to 120 Nm seemed more than enough, but breaking even 300 might not be enough. Or the shank nut on the patrol 320 Nm, and rip off? Any extension levers do not count, as they kill the fasteners.
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Registration Date: 24 Nov 2013
285 posts
Auto: Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2,5 td
Name: Leonid
Gender: Male
City: Kiev, Troyeshina.
The bottom line is that the farm has an Andrmax 800Nm pneumatic impact wrench, only a pneumatic ratchet is needed.
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Registration Date: 08 Nov 2012
268 posts
Auto: Samurai
Name: Peter
Gender: Male
City: Kiev
it is better to tear off the nuts and bolts with a crank. and unscrew / tighten, for speed of the process, already with a pneumatic grate
User
Registration Date: 24 Nov 2013
285 posts
Auto: Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2,5 td
Name: Leonid
Gender: Male
City: Kiev, Troyeshina.
it is better to tear off the nuts and bolts with a crank. and unscrew / tighten, for speed of the process, already with a pneumatic grate
That's why I want to take it, only with a choice while the question is open.
User
Registration Date: 24 Nov 2013
285 posts
Auto: Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2,5 td
Name: Leonid
Gender: Male
City: Kiev, Troyeshina.
Thank you all for the advice, the choice was made, I bought two Licota ratchets, 1/2 ″ = 108 Nm; 1/4 ″ = 27 Nm. The topic can be closed.
A worthy analogue of a hand-held power tool is pneumatic equipment. Due to the fact that the device and operation of the pneumatic tool compare favorably with electrical counterparts, these devices are becoming more and more used and popular in a wide range of work.
The most obvious difference between pneumatic tools and electrical equipment is the power source. As you might guess, the energy for these devices is compressed air, which is supplied through a flexible hose with a diameter of one and a half to two centimeters. The average length of the hose is about fifty meters, it is not uncommon to find a hose rolled into a spiral accordion - thus, the hose is significantly reduced in length and effortlessly stretched to the required distance. At the ends, the hose is equipped with couplings for easy disconnection and connection of the tool to the pneumatic line or directly to the compressor.
Here you can familiarize yourself with the catalog of pneumatic tools sold by OOO TD "TechMash".
The pneumatic tool differs from the electric one in that it is lighter than the second one, since there are significantly fewer parts in the drive mechanism and, in terms of its dimensions, the electrical device is larger than pneumatic. It follows from this that using an air-powered tool in work, the worker will be less tired. Due to its compactness, but at the same time without loss of power, the pneumatic tool is often used in confined spaces. Another very useful factor is that the engine of such a tool does not produce sparks, which means that it can be safely used in explosive areas of increased gas pollution. The worst thing for a power tool is moisture getting inside. The electric motor instantly breaks down, but water cannot be an obstacle for an air-powered tool. With such an assistant, you can easily work in pouring rain, and in some cases even under water. The pneumatic tool is not afraid of overheating, and excludes the possibility of ignition due to a short circuit in the wiring. And it is very important - the pneumatic tool will never deliver an electric shock.
Due to the fact that the device and operation of the pneumatic tool are unique in their own way, the scope of such equipment is practically unlimited. However, pneumatic devices have become widespread at stationary production sites, in workshops, in factories and plants. In addition, such tools are also widely used in everyday life. The mobility of the pneumatic tool rests only on the transportation of the compressor, if this does not cause problems, then all other organs will not cause trouble.
The service life of pneumatic equipment also meets all the requirements and significantly exceeds that of electric tools. Sometimes the service life is tens of times longer than machines of the same power. This is one of the main qualities for which the pneumatic tool is so fond of professionals and inexperienced craftsmen. In addition, such a tool has fewer parts, therefore, there are fewer possible breakages. And in the event of a breakdown, pneumatic devices are easily repaired on site, of course, with the necessary spare parts and the right tools. An example is a hand held pneumatic drilling machine:
1 is the spindle; 2 - planetary reducer; 3 - rotary type pneumatic motor; 4 and 11 are screws; 5 - nut; 6 - equipment handle; 7 - starting device; 8 - muffler, which allows to significantly reduce the noise level of equipment operation; 9 - union nut; 10 - gearbox housing.
In more detail, the device and operation of the pneumatic tool can be considered using the example of a rotary pneumatic motor. The design of the rotary air motor is very simple. It consists of just a few work items. This is the body or, as it is also called, the stator, rotor, plates, air supply and exhaust channels. How does it all work? On the body of the rotor there are grooves (slots) into which the plates are inserted. The circular movement is carried out by expanding the compressed air. The rotor is somewhat offset from the center of the stator. This creates zones within the stator with different volumes. The plates play the role of dividing walls between these zones. The air supply is directed to the area with the smallest volume, and the outlet is located in the largest area in the stator cavity. The compressed air turns the rotor to increase volume and release internal stress. The air flow displacement determines the direction of rotation of the rotor.
The speed control is carried out by increasing and decreasing the pressure. This means that the use of a gear transmission system is not necessary, which has a great effect on the weight of the tool.
In addition, the operation of an air motor is very different from electric motors in that with an increase in the load and a decrease in the speed, the power of the air pressure on the rotor plates increases and thereby the power increases, which, unfortunately, is inversely proportional to electric motors. Thus, the constant load on the air motor is not dangerous for the service life of the tool, even over several shifts without interruption.
The level of vibration and noise is lower than the power tool, loud noise is created only by the compressor unit and if the compressor is isolated from the working space, then this problem will be resolved.
In addition, pneumatic equipment has a tangible energy savings of about thirty percent. Only the compressor has to supply electricity, all the other tools will be powered by compressed air.
To work with a pneumatic tool, you do not need to have any special skills - its structure and operation are quite simple. Modern models are made with maximum ergonomics in design, they are comfortable to hold in the hand, pleasant and easy to work with.
The jack is one of the most important tools in the arsenal, it will help everywhere: repairing a machine or equipment, carrying out a variety of construction and repair work. And if suddenly your device is out of order for some reason, you need to learn how to repair a hydraulic jack with your own hands!
A wide variety of jacks will also please, each of which has its own characteristics and distinctive features.
Like any equipment that carries huge loads, devices can often break down, and therefore you always need to know how to repair the jack yourself. To be fully armed at the time of a breakdown!
Any hydraulic jack operates on liquid, and the main elements of the jack are the body, piston and oil. If you decide to study how to carry out repairs yourself, you definitely need to know what reasons can lead to breakdowns. First of all, the structure of the device could be "attacked" by corrosion, which leads to restriction during the descent of the mechanism. Naturally, jacks often break due to too much stress, which leads to bending of the rods.
There are some other points, including the need to change the oil. However, any repair is carried out practically according to the same scheme. And the first thing you need to know is how to disassemble the device, after which you can start changing the fluid. The tool is disassembled in the following order:
Using wrenches, unscrew the fasteners;
Remove the fluid bleed valve and piston;
Carrying out a competent inspection, we check the quality of the valve and all gaskets - if you notice that they have become unusable, we just change the elements of the jack;
We clean the mechanism from debris and other foreign elements, rinse the cylinder;
We check and change the old rubber band if necessary;
The last step is to reassemble the tool in reverse order.
Naturally, after you assemble the jack, it should be checked for operability! If the device starts working, great, but it doesn't always work out the first time. Perhaps the oil is the problem?
Oil is the driving force of the device, it is this oil that presses on the piston, setting the rod to the desired position. Due to this, it is possible to lift almost any load. If there is not enough oil in the device, the mechanism will not work. Many who start repairs for the first time miss this moment, which ultimately leads to problems with the operation of the jack. Oil change instructions:
In order to fill the jack with oil, you must first unscrew the plug and drain the old fluid. The next step is to clean the mechanism with flushing fluid, which can be purchased at any hardware store. By the way, it is quite difficult to flush the jack completely, especially for a beginner, because you will have to fill in the liquid at least two or three times, after which the pumping is carried out, the liquid is added again and pumped again. The old oil is drained in the same way - so that not even a drop of old fluid remains inside the mechanism.
The container must be filled with oil to the end, that is, until the liquid reaches the required level. In this case, set the jack in a low position. To lower the stem to the lower position, be sure to turn the screw-cock until it reaches the “drain” position. Having tightened the plug, we carry out the pumping for five times, after which we add oil and tighten the plug again. There will not be enough oil every time during the cleaning process, and therefore it is necessary to pump it until the “fuel” of our jack reaches the required level, and bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the liquid.
As you have seen, repairing jacks with your own hands is a fairly simple job. However, of course, I do not want to bring it to repair work, because it takes both time and effort to implement. That is why we have compiled for you a selection of recommendations from experts. If you follow them, then the operation of your jack will become much easier, and repairs can be "pushed" further away.
In order for the oil change work to proceed efficiently and correctly, it is imperative to remove any loads, and the device itself can be started to operate only after you have completely completed all the work and assemble the jack;
It is advisable to change the "fuel" twice a year, and if you use the jack constantly, then at least once a month you need to carry out these works, and you must flush the entire mechanism every time;
You can choose any oil, but if you are going to use the device in the winter season, be sure to use a synthetic solution. This will allow the mechanism to always be in "full combat readiness" for work;
No matter what time of year it is outside, it will be better if you can store the tool in a dry and warm place, otherwise the oil may simply freeze;
If it is necessary to carry out work in the winter season, remember that too long work in the cold can lead to damage to the device, and therefore the operation of the jack is possible in the most extreme cases and for a short time.
If you work with these methods, you can significantly extend the life of the jack. And expensive repairs, which can cost you a significant amount, can be "postponed" indefinitely, which is good news!