Priora do-it-yourself box repair

In detail: Prior do-it-yourself box repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A Lada Priora car, manufactured in 2013, arrived for repairs, on which it is necessary to replace the gearbox. The curtain on the old-style car, a simple lever, not a cable one. The problem in the box is that at the beginning it began to knock out the second gear, after a while, it also knocks out the second. It was decided not to carry out repairs, but to replace the box with a new one, while not much money is lost, the price of a new unit is 18,000 rubles.

From under the hood, remove the air filter housing, the battery, turn off the speed sensors and reverse gear. Unscrew the clutch cable. We unscrew the front wheels and raise the car. We remove power from the starter.

Remove the cap from the hub. We take a strong screwdriver and insert it into the cooling fins, unscrew the hub nut with a head of 30:

We will have to remove the drive. We unscrew the two bolts securing the Torx T30 boot:

We unscrew the nuts for 24 fastening of the traverse (saber). We detach the ball from the trunnion, unscrewing all fasteners, after that you can freely remove the drive. We put the "basin" and unscrew this plug:

We drain the oil. We unscrew the "hatch", which we close the flywheel, for this we need a head for 10:

We unscrew these two bolts:

One of them is at 17, the other at 19. Move the backstage boot. With a 10 key, unscrew this bolt:

And we pull off the cardan from the stock. Our oil is already glass, so we tighten the drain plug. Using the assembly, we pull out the drive:

We are left with two lower mounts, this is a bolt for 19:

And a 19 nut that is attached to the block:

Video (click to play).

We also have the mounting of the pillow. We will need to support the engine so that it does not fall in the process of removing the box.

The second video is almost entirely devoted to installing a new box.

Video replacement of the gearbox in Lada Priora:

The second part of the video on replacing the gearbox in the Lada Priore:

If, during the repair of the gearbox, at least one of the following parts was replaced: the clutch housing or gearbox, the differential housing or differential bearings, then it is necessary to select an adjusting ring for the differential bearings.You will need: a socket wrench (head) "for 10", "for 13", "for 32", keys "for 10" and "for 17", a large screwdriver, a bit, a hammer, pliers for removing retaining rings, an impact screwdriver.1. Remove the transmission from (see "Removal and installation of the priora transmission"). Remove any dirt from it and wash the outside.2. Remove the oil level indicator (dipstick) from the transmission.3. Install the gearbox vertically on the Lada Prior's clutch housing, unscrew bolt 1 with a key "10" (a flat washer is installed under its head) and two nuts 3 (spring washers are installed under them) fastening the clutch cable bracket. Remove the clutch cable bracket 2 from the transmission.4. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the remaining four nuts securing the rear cover.5. Using a screwdriver to pry the lug on the cover, remove the rear cover.6. Using a “10” spanner, unscrew the V-gear fork fastening bolt (a spring washer is installed under the bolt head).7. Secure the transmission shafts against turning. To do this, turn on the V gear by moving the VAZ 2170 synchronizer clutch down with the fork so that the clutch splines mesh with the gear, then turn on the III or IV gear by moving the gear selection rod.8. Unlock and with the "32" head unscrew the nut securing the input shaft of the VAZ 2171. To do this, you need to make a lot of effort, since the nut is tightened with a large torque.9. Having previously unlocked, use the "32" head to unscrew the nut securing the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2172.To do this, you need to make an effort, since the nut is tightened with a large torque.10. Using screwdrivers, using screwdrivers to lift the driven gear of the V gear of the prior's fret (thereby pressing the synchronizer hub off the shaft), remove it together with the synchronizer and the fork from the secondary shaft.Make sure the synchroniser sleeve does not come off the hub, as the spring-loaded synchroniser locking balls may crumble.11. Remove the thrust plate from the synchroniser. Then remove the fork from the groove of the synchroniser clutch.12. Remove the V gear from the synchronizer with a locking ring 1. Mark the locking ring 1 in relation to the clutch 2 and remove it. During operation, the teeth of the ring run in to the teeth of the coupling, therefore, during assembly, the ring must be installed in the same position. If you do not intend to disassemble the prior's fret synchronizer, tie it with a wire or rope so that it does not fall apart.13. Pull the bushing out of the output shaft.14. Remove the transfer pinion from the prior's input shaft. Note how it is installed.15. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws (spring washers are installed under them) securing the bearing plate and remove the bearing plate 1. Then remove the thrust washer 2 from the output shaft.16. Remove the bearing circlips of both shafts by lifting the shafts by hand.17. Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the three retainer plugs and carefully remove the retainer balls with springs.18. After unscrewing the reverse lock plug, remove the O-ring, and then remove the retainer spring.19. Tilt the box and remove the retainer ball.20. Unscrew the twelve nuts and remove the bolt securing the gearbox housings of the Lada Prior. Pay attention to which nuts the holder 1 and transport lug 2 are installed under. Spring washers are installed under the nuts and bolt. Remove the plug 3 inserted instead of one of the drives.21. Inserting a screwdriver into the grooves (three special grooves around the perimeter of the crankcases), separate the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.22. Lift the gearbox housing slightly, turn it counterclockwise so that the lug 1 of the crankcase comes out from under the gear, and remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.23. "by 10" unscrew the bolts securing the shift forks I and II, III and IV gears.24. Slightly lift the shift rod of 1st and 2nd gears so that it comes out of support 3, and turn it counterclockwise so that the head 1 of the rod disengages from the locking bracket 2. Remove the rod fork 4 from the groove of the synchronizer coupling and remove the rod with the fork ... It is not recommended to remove the forks from the rods unnecessarily so as not to confuse them during assembly.25. Turning the shift rod of III and IV gears, disengage its head with the gear selection lever of the LAD PRIOR. Then slightly raise the stem so that it comes out of the support, and, removing the stem fork from the groove of the synchronizer coupling, remove the stem with the fork.26. By expanding the V gear engaging rod, disengage its head with the locking bracket. Remove the stem by pulling it out of the support.27. Remove the priora idler reverse gear axle.28. Move the reverse idler gear until it stops in the gear selection mechanism, turn it by 30–40 ° and, pulling it out from under the shaft gears, remove the intermediate gear of the Lada Prior.29. Slightly shaking, take out the primary and secondary shafts of the priors at the same time.30. Remove the LAD PRIOR differential from the clutch housing.31. Using a 10 key, unscrew the three bolts of the VAZ 2170 gear selection mechanism (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads). Remove the gear selection mechanism.32. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing of the VAZ 2172.33. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the speed sensor fixing nut and remove the sensor.34. Replace the torn or lost elasticity of the O-ring of the VAZ 2170 speed sensor.35.Unscrew the VAZ 2171 reverse light switch from the gearbox housing. There is a metal O-ring under it.36. There is a special puller to press out the front bearing of the output shaft of the VAZ 2171. If not, press out the bearing with a screwdriver.37. Remove the oil sump installed under the bearing.

38. There is also a special puller to press out the front bearing of the input shaft. If not, make a hook-shaped fixture out of stiff wire. Insert the tool into one of the two grooves in the crankcase and place the hook under the LAD PRIOR bearing. Then, using a screwdriver (placing a block of wood), press out the bearing from the crankcase, applying force to the opposite end of the screwdriver with hammer blows and alternately rearranging the hook in the grooves.

39. Press the new front shaft bearings against the stop into the clutch housing using a suitable mandrel.

40. Use a screwdriver to pry the edge of the gear selector shaft protector and slide it off the stem support bushing.41. Using a key "10", unscrew the bolt 3 securing the lever 2 of the gear selection. Moving the rod 1, remove the gear selection lever. Then remove the selector rod from the clutch housing.

42. If it is necessary to replace the stem hinge, slide the protective cover off it and unscrew the hinge fastening bolt. The bolt is fixed with special TB-1324 glue. Before screwing in the bolt, clean the old glue and apply a new one. Replace any torn or loose stem hinge protector.

43. To replace the clutch housing, remove the bearing from it (see "Replacing the clutch release bearing of the VAZ 2170") and the clutch release fork (see "Replacing the clutch release fork"), press out the Lada Prior oil seals (see "Replacing the gearbox oil seals" ).

44. Inspect the clutch and transmission housings, as well as the rear cover. There should be no cracks or chips on them. There should be no nicks, marks, dents, etc. on the mating surfaces. Remove minor damage with a sanding paper. Replace defective parts if severely damaged.45. Check the bearing seats in the clutch and transmission housings. These surfaces should not show signs of wear or damage. Otherwise, replace the crankcases.46. Check the condition of the Lada Prior roller bearings. If the raceways, cage or rollers are damaged and any play is found (the radial clearance in the bearing must not exceed 0.07 mm), replace the bearing.47. Check the condition of the gear shift rods. Replace bent stems, with scuffs, burrs or worn out holes for retainers. Replace the forks if they are bent or their feet are worn out.

48. Check the seals of the semiaxes of the Lada Prior. They should not be warped, have tears. The working edge should be flat, without grooves, dents and sagging of rubber. The packing spring must not be broken or stretched. Replace defective oil seals.

49. Check and, if necessary, replace the oil seals of the input shaft of the VAZ 2172 and the gear selector rod (see "Replacing the gearbox oil seals").

50. Replace damaged or heavily crimped gaskets.

51. Clean the magnet from wear particles. If the magnet appears cracked or has weakened magnetic properties, replace the magnet.

52. Thoroughly clean old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch and transmission housings, as well as the rear cover.

53. Assemble the Lada Prior gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following.

54. Before installing the shafts of the Lada Prior, enter the teeth of their gears into engagement and in this position, install them in the clutch housing.

55. Pay attention to how the forks are installed on the gear shift rods: 1 - a stock with a shift fork for 1st and 2nd gears, 2 - a stock with a shift fork for 3rd and 4th gears.

56. Liberally lubricate all rubbing parts with gear oil.

57.Remember to replace the magnet.

58. Before installing the gearbox housing on the clutch housing and rear cover, apply sealant to their mating surfaces around the entire perimeter.

Problems with the 2nd gear were initially, from the moment of purchasing this fret priors. Well, how can I say the problem, at first it did not turn on at all, then it began to turn on with a crunch (we are talking about a quick start and switching from 1st to 2nd at 6000-6500 rpm, there were no problems with normal driving).
I got there :)
The second gear began to fly out, and it was not realistic to hold it in place even with a strong hand - the car twitched strongly and did not want to go.On the recommendation of his father, he signed up for a service, where he repairs his car. (by the way, the service turned out to be very good, now only there :), located opposite the traffic police)Since the box had to undergo an autopsy, I ran through the thought to put the 18th row and a pair of 3.9.
Couples for my shaft were not available, I had to wait 2 weeks, and I could not drive without second gear.
Well, having considered finances, I decided to leave the standard row and postponed the whole thing until better times 🙂
IMHO, it is better to first increase the power of the priors engine, and only then adjust the box for it.When they disassembled the box, in principle, they were not surprised by anything 😀
The 2nd gear teeth and clutches were practically worn out, the fork was worn out. The synchronizer was surprisingly in good condition.As a result, they were bought and exchanged
2nd gear gear
1-2 gear clutch
1-2 gear fork
Synchronizers 3 pcs.
Thrust bearings 2 pcs.
Gearbox oil seals
Gearbox gaskets
SHELL oil, some kind of new, forgot the name, 75w90 in general, synthetics :)I also bought a Kalinovsky cardan along with an anther (you can pull the Priorovsky horseradish :)) and a short-stroke stage.
The cardan is longer than Priorov's, so I had to file it down.
Everything was set and adjusted. They say sit down, try to turn on the gear. I sit down and try. Damn, fly, do not turn on! And only with a dozen efforts, it turned out)) The first thought is how to ride it ?! They said I'll get used to it)
Indeed, having traveled for half an hour, I got the hang of switching with less effort) Everything is clear, short and now there are no crunches and backlash of the gearshift lever.
Generally very satisfied :)
There are few pictures, because it was not up to them that much, and only a telephone was at hand.
Thank you for your attention;)Automakers around the world are not standing still in terms of technical progress. Every year, cars appear that surprise with their innovations in equipment and characteristics. AvtoVAZ does not produce high-tech cars, but from time to time the manufacturer pleases with updates of certain units. For example, the VAZ 2170, better known as the Lada Priora, is now equipped with an updated mechanical gearbox. Its main feature is the final drive and synchronization with the differential.
Image - Priora do-it-yourself box repair

Structurally, the Lada Priora gearbox consists of three main units:

clutch housing;
gearbox housing;
rear cover of gearbox housing.

The units are connected to each other using bolt clamps, supplemented by applying a sealant. There is a special magnet in the pallet that catches metal elements, which are a product of natural resource development. The input shaft is an assembly with a set of gears that continuously mesh with driven gears of all available speeds. The output shaft is hollow and is used to supply gear oil. It contains all the driven gears of the forward speeds.

Two types of bearings are used on the shafts: at the back - ball type, at the front - with rollers. The oil sump is designed to redirect the oil flow into the hollow part of the shaft. Differential version - two-satellite. The main gear gear is attached to the flange of its box.

A breather is used to communicate with the external atmosphere; it is located in the upper part of the checkpoint.The control is carried out through a lever and a knob for switching between speeds - a rocker with a cover. To prevent accidental engagement and disengagement of gears while driving, a jet-type thrust is integrated into the mechanism. It is connected to the motor at one end and to the base of the switch lever at the other. For greater sensitivity, some drivers install a short-stroke rocker as a refinement. On one side of the stem, a switch is fixed inside, which acts on the mechanism, it is a separate unit and is attached to the pallet. Three axes are fixed in the casing of the device:

The first one is used to attach the switch for selecting and turning on the speed, as well as two locks from the brackets.

The second goes through the slots in the brackets and prevents them from turning.

The third secures the reverse speed fork.

The gearbox has a special solenoid that blocks the spontaneous engagement of the reverse speed. Its middle part has a protrusion and does not allow the locking brackets to move along the axes until the reverse speed is engaged. The solenoid switch is located on the gear lever knob. When the ring rises, the electrical circuit is closed and the solenoid receives supply voltage. At the same time, the protruding middle part is pushed inward, allowing you to engage in reverse gear. If the ring is damaged, or there is a break in the electrical circuit, the reverse speed cannot be turned on.

On the recommendation of his father, he signed up for a service, where he repairs his car. (by the way, the service turned out to be very good, now only there :), located opposite the traffic police)

Since the box had to undergo an autopsy, I ran through the thought to put the 18th row and a pair of 3.9.
Couples for my shaft were not available, I had to wait 2 weeks, and I could not drive without second gear.
Well, considering finances, I decided to leave the standard row and postponed the whole thing until better times
IMHO, it is better to first increase the power of the priors engine, and only then adjust the box for it.

When they disassembled the box, they were not surprised at all
The 2nd gear teeth and clutches were practically worn out, the fork was worn out. The synchronizer was surprisingly in good condition.

As a result, they were bought and exchanged
2nd gear gear
1-2 gear clutch
1-2 gear fork
Synchronizers 3 pcs.
Thrust bearings 2 pcs.
Gearbox oil seals
Gearbox gaskets
SHELL oil, some kind of new, forgot the name, 75w90 in general, synthetics :)

I also bought a Kalinovsky cardan along with an anther (you can pull the Priorovsky horseradish :)) and a short-stroke stage.
The cardan is longer than Priorov's, so I had to file it down.
Everything was set and adjusted. They say sit down, try to turn on the gear. I sit down and try. Damn, fly, do not turn on! And only with a dozen efforts, it turned out)) The first thought is how to ride it ?! They said I'll get used to it)
Indeed, having traveled for half an hour, I got the hang of switching with less effort) Everything is clear, short and now there are no crunches and backlash of the gearshift lever.
Generally very satisfied :)
There are few pictures, because it was not up to them that much, and only a telephone was at hand.
Thank you for your attention;)

Symptoms: gears are shifted with complications, gears do not switch / do not turn on / do not turn off, rattling when changing gears, gears "knocks out", gears are turned off spontaneously.

Possible reason: the gearbox parts are out of order.

Tools: flat screwdriver, a set of heads, a set of wrenches, an assembly blade, a hammer, a technological plug in the gearbox hole for wheel drive.

2. Remove the oil level gauge from the gearbox.

3. Place the gearbox vertically on the clutch housing.

4. Unscrew and take out the fastening bolt (1) using a “10” spanner and remove its washer installed under the head. Unscrew the two retaining nuts (3) of the clutch cable bracket and remove the spring washers installed under them. Remove the clutch cable bracket (2) from the gearbox.

5. Unscrew the remaining four rear cover retaining nuts using a 10-inch wrench.

6. Using a screwdriver, pry the boss on the cover, then remove it.

7. Unscrew and remove the fifth gear yoke mounting bolt using a 10-inch spanner. Remove the washer under the bolt head.

8. Prevent the gearbox shafts from turning as follows:

- turn on the fifth gear by shifting down the synchronizer clutch with the fork so that the clutch splines mesh with the gear;

- turn on the third or fourth gear by moving the gear selection rod to the desired position.

9. Unlock and then loosen the input shaft retaining nut using a 32-bit socket.

10. Using the same tool, unscrew the securing nut of the output shaft, having previously unlocked it.

Note. The fixing nuts of the input and output shafts are tightened with a high torque, and therefore, when unscrewing them, a lot of effort must be applied.

11. Dismantle the driven gear of the fifth gear together with the synchronizer and the output shaft yoke by lifting them with two screwdrivers.

Note. Prevent the synchroniser clutch from sliding off the hub. This is necessary because the synchroniser locking balls may fall apart.

12. Remove the thrust plate from the synchronizer, then remove the fork from the synchronizer sleeve.

13. Dismantle the fifth gear with the blocking ring from the synchronizer. Mark the relative position of the locking ring (1) and the sleeve (2), and then remove it. This is necessary because during operation the teeth of the ring are worn in to the teeth of the coupling, therefore the correct installation of the ring is very important.

14. Remove the output shaft sleeve.

15. Disconnect the drive gear of the transfer from the input shaft (pay attention to the position of its installation).

16. Remove the four bearing plate retaining screws using an impact screwdriver. Dismantle the plate (1) and remove the thrust washer (2) from the output shaft.

17. Remove the bearing circlips from both shafts by lifting the shafts by hand.

18. Unscrew the three plugs of the fixing elements using a 13-inch spanner. Carefully remove the retainer balls together with the springs.

19. Remove the sealing ring and take out the spring of the fixing element, having previously unscrewed the stopper plug.

20. Remove the retainer ball by tilting the gearbox.

21. Unscrew and remove twelve nuts and remove the securing bolt of the gearbox housings. Pay attention to which nuts the holder (1) and transport eyelet (2) are installed under. Remove the plug (3) inserted in place of one of the drives.

22. Disconnect the gearbox housing and the clutch housing by alternately inserting a screwdriver into the slots along the perimeter of the crankcases.

23. Raising the gearbox housing, turn it counterclockwise so that the crankcase lug (1) comes out from under the gear, then remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.

24. Unscrew and remove the fastening bolts of the forks of the first and second, third and fourth gears using a “10” wrench.

25. Remove the shift rod of the first and second gears from the support (3), slightly lifting it.Disengage the stem head (1) from the locking bracket (2) by turning the stem counterclockwise. Remove the rod yoke (4) from the synchronizer coupling groove, and then dismantle the yoke.

Note. Do not mix up the forks when assembling.

26. Disengage the head of the third and fourth gear shift rod from the gear selection lever by turning the rod. Remove the rod from the support, slightly lifting it, then remove the rod together with the fork, removing it from the groove of the synchronizer coupling.

27. Disengage the fifth gear engagement rod head from the locking bracket by turning it. Bring it out of the support and remove the stem.

28. Remove the idler reverse gear axle.

29. Move the reverse idler gear until it stops in the gear selection mechanism, then turn it 30 - 40 degrees. Remove the idler gear by moving it out from under the shaft gears.

30. Simultaneously remove the input and output shafts by slightly shaking them.

31. Remove the differential from the clutch housing.

32. Unscrew and remove the three mounting bolts of the gear selection mechanism using a 10-inch spanner, then remove it.

33. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing.

34. Unscrew the speed sensor fixing nut using a “10” spanner, and then remove the sensor.

35. Replace the speed sensor O-ring if it is damaged or loose.

36. Remove the reversing light switch by unscrewing it from the gearbox housing. There is a metal seal ring underneath.

37. Press out the front bearing of the output shaft using a special puller or screwdriver.

38. Dismantle the oil collector (it is located under the bearing).

39. Press out the input shaft front bearing using a special puller. If you do not have a puller, construct a hook-shaped fixture with stiff wire. Mount the manufactured device into one of the grooves in the crankcase and insert the hook under the bearing. Press the bearing out of the crankcase as follows:

- put a screwdriver in the hook;

- put a block of wood under the screwdriver;

- do not hit with a hammer on the opposite inserted end of the screwdriver;

- alternately rearrange the hook in the grooves.

40. Press the new shaft bearings into the clutch housing up to the stop using a suitable mandrel.

41. Using a screwdriver, pry up the lip of the selector shaft protector, then slide it off the stem support bushing.

42. Unscrew the fastening bolt (3) of the gear selection lever (2). Dismantle the gear selection lever by displacing the rod (1), and then remove the gear selection rod from the clutch housing.

43. If it is necessary to replace the stem joint:

- slide the protection cover off the stem;

- unscrew and remove the hinge fixing bolt.

Note. The bolt is fixed with special TB-1324 glue;

- before screwing in the bolt, clean it from the layer of old glue, and then apply a new one;

- Replace the damaged or lost elasticity / elasticity cover for protecting the stem hinge.

44. If it is necessary to replace the clutch housing:

- remove the bearing from the clutch housing;

- remove the clutch release fork;

- press out the oil seals.

45. Inspect the clutch and gearbox housings, as well as the rear cover. Cracks, chips and other similar damage are not allowed. The seating surfaces should not have nicks, dents, deep marks and similar defects. It is allowed to repair minor damage using abrasive paper. Replace parts if defects are significant.

46. Check the bearing seats in the clutch housing and in the gearbox housing. If damage is found to the seats, the crankcases should be replaced.

47. Check roller bearings.Replace if damaged raceways, cage or rollers. Also, the bearings should be replaced if any play is found.

48. Inspect the gear shift rods for scoring, burrs, worn out holes for fixing elements and other defects. Replace the rods on which they are found.

49. Inspect the axle seals. Tears and traces of warpage are not allowed. Also, the presence of dents, sagging of rubber, deep grooves on their working edge is not allowed. The packing spring must be elastic, not broken or deformed. Defective oil seals must be replaced.

50. Replace damaged and heavily crimped gaskets.

51. Clean the magnet from wear particles of parts. Replace the magnet if cracks appear or the magnetic properties are weakened.

52. Carefully remove the remnants of the old sealing agent from the mating surfaces of the clutch housing and the gearbox housing.

53. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following points:

- before installing the shafts in the clutch housing, insert the teeth of the shaft gears into engagement;

- liberally lubricate all rubbing parts and assemblies with gear oil;

- place the magnet in its place;

- Apply a sealant around the entire perimeter of the mating surfaces of the clutch housing and rear cover.

54. Install the gearbox.

If there is a strange noise, gnashing, gears started spontaneously to turn on, it means that there are certain problems with the gearbox. Priora car owners do not encounter a similar problem so often. However, in practice, such cases occur from time to time. In this case, it is not recommended to delay visiting a car workshop. After all, the behavior of the car on the road largely depends on the technical condition of the gearbox.

Qualitative repair of the Priora gearbox carried out by experienced craftsmen. To carry out the work, specialists use only modern equipment and professional tools. Thanks to this approach, masters manage to solve even the most complex problems. The first stage of work is diagnostics. Based on the data obtained, experts determine the most effective method, which should be resorted to in the future.

Gearbox repair on Priora Is a popular, highly demanded service, which has a number of positive features, namely:

- for the work of the master, only original spare parts are used (delivery from Togliatti);
- the workshop cooperates with other car dealerships;
- a fixed price is set for the services provided;
- a guarantee is provided for work (10 thousand kilometers);
- all orders are executed promptly (in just 2-2.5 hours);
- additional services are offered to clients.

In addition to repairs, specialists are ready to modernize the checkpoint. For example, for a reasonable price, you can make a sports gearbox out of a conventional gearbox.

If the driver detects problems with the transmission, highly qualified service specialists can quickly determine the need for repairs. Also, the workshop workers conduct consultations related to the competent maintenance of the vehicle and the features of the new gearbox. The guarantee for the work performed once again confirms the high professionalism of the craftsmen. You can get acquainted with the prices for the services provided in the price list.

Price for the repair of the Priora gearbox : 7000 rubles (price includes: removal, spare parts, repair and installation)

We carry out the disassembly of the gearbox during its repair.
Outside, we clean the gearbox from dirt (do not allow dirt to get inside the gearbox).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the left support of the power unit and the clutch release cable.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the bracket fastening bolt ...
... and remove the bracket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the eye attachment nut ...
... and take it off.
Unscrew the reversing light switch (see [[Repair Priora 238-2 | "Removing the reversing light switch"). Remove the speed sensor (see "Removing the vehicle speed sensor").
For the convenience of further disassembly of the gearbox, we screw two nuts onto the fastening pin of the clutch housing ...

… And unscrew the stud from the clutch housing.
We install the gearbox on the workbench with the clutch housing down.

Using the "13" head, we unscrew the plug of the retainer of the fork for engaging the reverse gear ...

We take out the retainer spring from the crankcase hole.

Using a magnet, remove the retainer ball.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the rear crankcase cover.

Tapping with a hammer with a plastic head or a conventional hammer through a mandrel made of soft metal on the lid lugs ...

… Remove it from the studs.
To loosen the shaft nuts, it is necessary to lock the shafts from turning by engaging two gears at once. To do this, pushing the gear selector rod all the way in, turn on the 3rd gear.

Using the spanner wrench "10", unscrew the bolt securing the V gear fork.

We hit the fork through a soft metal drift, including V gear.

With a beard, we straighten the punching points of the collars of the nuts of the primary and secondary shafts.

Head "32" with a powerful knob ...
… Unscrew the shaft nuts.

Prying the driven gear of the V gear with a screwdriver, remove the V gear assembly assembly.

We take out the plug of inclusion of the V gear.
Noting the position of the synchronizer ring relative to the clutch ...

… Remove the V gear with a synchronizer blocking ring.

Remove the synchronizer blocking ring.

We take out the thrust plate of the synchronizer

Use a screwdriver to pry on the sleeve of the driven gear of the V gear ...

... and remove it from the output shaft.

Insert one or two screwdrivers into the gap between the thrust plate and the V-gear drive gear. Prying the gear with a screwdriver (s) ...

… We press it off the input shaft.

Remove the thrust ring from the secondary shaft.

Using an impact screwdriver with a Phillips head PH3, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing thrust plate.
Special lock washers are installed under the screw heads.

Using the spanner wrench "13", unscrew the three plugs of the clamps of the gear shift forks.

We take out the springs from the nests ...

... and use a magnetic screwdriver to remove the locking balls.
Using two screwdrivers, we unclench the ends of the retaining ring of the rear bearing of the input shaft ...

… And remove the ring from the crankcase groove.
Likewise, remove the rear bearing retaining ring on the output shaft.

Using a 13 spanner spanner, unscrew one bolt and thirteen nuts securing the gearbox housing to the clutch housing.

Having inserted a screwdriver into the groove at the junction of the mating surfaces of the crankcases, carefully raise the gearbox housing ...

We take out the magnet from the recess of the gearbox housing.

Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the I – II gear shift fork to the rod.

Lift the stem up and remove the fork from the groove of the synchronizer sliding sleeve.

Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd-4th gear shift fork to the rod ...

… And use a screwdriver to remove the stem lever from the gearshift mechanism.

We lift the stem up and remove the fork from the groove of the synchronizer sliding sleeve.

Turning the Vth gear shift fork rod, remove the rod lever from the gear shift mechanism.

We take out the axis of the intermediate gear of the reverse gear.

We take out the intermediate gear of the reverse gear.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the three bolts securing the gearshift mechanism ...

We simultaneously take out the primary and secondary shafts from the roller bearings of the clutch housing.

We take out the differential assembly.
We move the protective rubber cover from the hinge of the switch stem ...

... and use a 10-ring spanner to unscrew the conical screw of the hinge.

Remove the hinge from the rod ...
… And a protective cover for the hinge.
If you need to remove the gear selector or its rod ...

… With the "10" head, unscrew the tapered screw securing the gear selector.
Moving the rod out of the crankcase hole ...

… Remove the gear selector from the rod.

Using a screwdriver, remove the rollers of the front bearing of the secondary shaft from the separator.

We take out the bearing cage.

Hooking the collar of the outer ring of the bearing with the hook of the impact puller ...

… Press out the outer ring of the bearing.

We remove the oil sump.
In the same way we press out the outer ring of the input shaft bearing.

We knock out a suitable piece of pipe from the clutch housing ...

We strike through the beard into the end face of the outer ring of the differential bearing ...

Video (click to play).

... and press out the ring.
In the same way, we knock out the oil seal and the outer ring of the differential bearing from the gearbox housing. We take out the adjusting ring.

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