You should be as prepared as possible to repair a device such as a hammer drill, which will keep financial and labor costs to a minimum. It's not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of a punch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator is reduced to a banal replacement of the "flying" elements, which include:
Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise from dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, soak it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of a lubricant must be carefully considered. So, there are several rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor ), as the perforator itself, in this case, in terms of its composition, oil or varnish will be ideal. If such a composition is not at hand, a diesel engine oil is perfect for you.
The second most common cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool costs - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem.It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the perforator according to the above-described scheme, find worn-out brushes and put new ones in their place. You just need to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the hammer drill. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are exposed to maximum stress. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by rinsing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have nothing to do but change it.
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Now you know how to fix a hammer drill and see that most of the breakdowns come down to simple cleaning or replacing faulty parts. But if you disassembled the tool, and there are no apparent reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
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It would seem, why does a chainsaw need a summer resident who grows vegetables and fruits, or the owner of a country house who has a small garden and several flower beds? The question disappears when there is a desire to build a bathhouse, update a greenhouse, topple an old business, or just make a bench for relaxation. Unfortunately, any mechanism periodically needs preventive maintenance and replacement of spare parts, and for this you need to be well versed in the device of the product, besides, repairing the chainsaw with your own hands will save time and money.
All chainsaws are similar in structure, regardless of whether they are European (ECHO, Stihl, Husqvarna) or domestic (Kedr, Ural). The main elements are located inside the body - the fuel tank and the engine, and outside the starter, the handle, the saw part (tire) with the chain. A sharp jerk in the cable starts the engine, which starts the saw blade.
To begin with, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video clips that show how the chainsaw works and how it works:
From time to time, the saw malfunctions, which require disassembly to eliminate. What can happen to such a simple mechanism as a chainsaw? At least the following:
Stops getting started;
Starts up, but soon stops;
Ceases to function in the cut;
Loses its power;
Most of the malfunctions are associated either with interruptions in the operation of the engine (fuel supply system, exhaust system, ignition, cylinder-piston part), or with malfunctions of other systems and assemblies (clutch, chain brake, tire, lubrication system). Let's consider the most common breakdowns and techniques for their elimination.
A serviceable chainsaw starts with one jerk and does not fail in the cut
The first thing to do if a chainsaw breaks down is to inspect the spark plug by disconnecting the wire and carefully unscrewing it with a special key.
Components of the chainsaw ignition system: 1 - flywheel with magnets, 2 - ignition module, 3 - spark plug, 4 - high voltage wire
Unscrew the spark plug to check its condition.
Her appearance says a lot:
Dry. Most likely, the fuel mixture does not enter the cylinder. It's not about the ignition system, so the plug is screwed back in.Strongly splashed with fuel. The reason for the excess fuel mixture lies either in the violation of the starting rules, or in the incorrect adjustment of the carburetor. Carefully wipe the spark plug, shut off the fuel supply and turn on the starter to remove excess fuel and ventilate the combustion chamber. Then the candle is put in place and the mechanism is started again.Covered with black carbon. This may indicate the use of low-quality oil, an incorrectly adjusted carburetor, or an incorrectly calculated gasoline to oil ratio. The candle should be washed, cleaned of carbon deposits with a sharp object (awl or needle), wipe the electrodes with a sandpaper and put in place.When checking the candle, you need to pay attention to the gap between the electrodes: it is considered normal from 0.5 to 0.65 mm. A damaged or worn gasket must be replaced.
A large amount of black carbon on the spark plug indicates a malfunction of the engine.
To be sure, you should also check for a spark. To do this, put the ignition cable on the spark plug, connect the plug nut and the cylinder with pliers, start the starter and watch for the spark. If it is missing, the plug must be replaced. If the new spark plug also does not emit sparks, the problem is in the high-voltage wire or in the broken connection with the spark plug.
Fuel may not enter the cylinder for the following reasons:
Dirty fuel filter. Remove the fuel hose and check how the fuel flows. If the jet is weak, the filter may need to be cleaned. It is taken out through the filler hole of the fuel tank and cleaned; in case of severe contamination, it is replaced with a new one. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to replace the fuel filter every three months.Clogged breather (holes in the fuel tank cap). It is also checked by disconnecting the hose, in case of blockage, clean it with a needle.Lack or insufficient amount of fuel. There may be several reasons for the malfunction. The first reason is a clogged air filter. Air ceases to flow into the carburetor in the required amount, in this regard, due to a too rich fuel mixture, engine operation is disrupted. The contaminated filter is carefully removed, cleaned and washed in water, then dried and reinstalled.Another reason is improper adjustment of the carburetor. The adjustment is made with three screws.
Timely replacement of the fuel filter ensures full fuel supply
The fuel hose and choke actuator must fit snugly on the fittings
The throttle lever cable must be in place
During work, you must use the instructions, otherwise you can only make it worse.
And the last reason is a violation of the integrity of the membrane or clogging of the carburetor channels.
To repair the carburetor yourself, you need to get acquainted with all its parts.
All parts must be clean, dry and in good condition.
If the engine works fine at low speeds, and at high speeds it starts to stall, the reason may lie in the spark arrester of the muffler, clogged with combustion products.
remove the muffler;
disassemble (there are also non-separable models);
remove carbon deposits using detergents;
dry with a hairdryer;
install in place.
Dry cleaning is unacceptable, as the soot contains carcinogens, the inhalation of which is hazardous to health.After removing the muffler, cover the outlet with a clean cloth.
Interruptions in the operation of the chainsaw signal a possible clogging of the muffler
To avoid clogging of the muffler, it is necessary to monitor the composition of the fuel mixture. The amount of oil should not exceed the rates recommended by the manufacturer. Poor oil quality also negatively affects engine performance.
Often the engine will not start or run at full capacity due to low cylinder pressure. It can be caused by piston or cylinder wear, piston ring sinking, bearing wear. You can partially examine the state of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) by removing the muffler and looking into the opened hole.
A compressor placed in the plug hole will help to measure the compression in the engine - according to the measurement results, you can also talk about the state of the CPG. Accurate data is obtained only after complete disassembly of the mechanism. If the piston is chipped or scratched, it must be replaced. The piston ring must be clean, free of carbon deposits, and be exactly in place.
Piston and crank mechanism wear is considered a serious problem.
According to the results of measuring the compression, one can judge the condition of the parts of the CPG
Let's consider three main faults:
Oil leakage. Check that the pipes are tightly connected to the pump unions and that they are not cracked. Problem tubes are sealed with sealant or replaced.
Insufficient oil supply. Most likely, the lubrication passages are clogged.
Cracks in the oil pump housing. Part needs to be replaced.
Here's how to diagnose the lubrication system:
The chain brake often does not work due to the clogging of grease or sawdust in the brake band and the space under the cover. All parts should be cleaned from blockages. Perhaps the tape is simply worn out, then it needs to be replaced.
The chain brake is restored by mechanical cleaning
Some parts of a chainsaw will wear out faster than others. These include the drive sprocket, tire, chain, anti-vibration elements. For quick replacement, it is best to always have spare parts on hand. Sharpening the chain should not be neglected.
Any tool, including a hammer drill, requires special care and careful use. Therefore, each owner of such an electric tool is obliged to regularly inspect the unit, to know how to disassemble a hammer drill. It is quite possible to disassemble and repair the device at home without spending a penny on the services of a specialist.
A hammer drill is an indispensable tool at any construction site, but due to careless use it wears out and breaks down very quickly. This is due to the high stress on the tool. As we know, the rock drill is often used at full power in the toughest conditions. Due to such loads, even branded models are susceptible to breakdowns. Therefore, every owner of this device should know how to repair a hammer drill with his own hands.
Like any other technical device, a hammer drill can be repaired, for this it does not have to be carried to a specialized workshop. Although not every man knows how to repair a hammer drill, it doesn’t matter! This article will help you do DIY repairs without assistance.
The most common cause of tool breakage is loose wire. Due to simple inattention, people pay significant money for a sheer trifle in puncher repair services. An elementary inspection is enough to understand that the tool has broken conditionally, that it can be easily repaired by yourself without outside help.
Not always, a visual inspection will help to identify the cause of the breakdown. In this case, the next step is to disassemble the punch. If the device has served for many years and is not of significant value, you can try to find the cause of the breakdown by disassembling the tool into separate parts.Feel free to start an offline repair if the cause of the tool malfunction is visible visually and you already have an idea of the perforator stuffing. If the device was purchased relatively recently, and the model itself is more modern and costs a lot of money, then it is best to contact the service center, because an independent repair can not only fix the device, but cause harm. If the inspection of the unit did not reveal a breakdown, then it is necessary to postpone the repair of the hammer drill. In the latter case, it will not be superfluous to consult an experienced specialist.
Any irregularities in the operation of the instrument have their own reasons, which should be found out. A person who has purchased a tool, for example, from Bosch or Sparky, expects from him a corresponding high result of work, as from every foreign, high-quality product. To eliminate the risk of serious damage, you need to know the principle of operation of the device. By some characteristic signs, it is possible to identify the cause of the breakdown and prevent the occurrence of a larger problem.
Signs:
Burning smell from the device.
During operation, there are pauses or small short circuits.
The device does not turn on the first time or works intermittently.
The appearance of extraneous noise when working with the device. At the same time, such noises were not noticed before.
Any of the above signs should not be ignored. Begin to investigate the cause of the unit failure. For trouble-free operation over a long period of time, you should carefully monitor and care for the instrument. To fix the device, you should study the components of the puncher and learn how to disassemble and assemble it.
A damaged wire on the device, like other minor mechanical damage, can be easily noticed. If you make a thorough examination of the parts of the instrument, then it is not difficult to see other minor malfunctions that led to the breakdown of the device. For more serious problems, you need to disassemble the hammer drill. And upon completion of the repair work - also the assembly of the perforator. The second operation in some cases is more difficult than the first - the appearance of unnecessary parts after assembly will indicate repair miscalculations. To prevent this from happening, you need not only to know how to properly repair a hammer drill, but also how to assemble it. It is important to be careful and careful when repairing a tool, then in 99% of cases the repair will be successful!
To start repairing a perforator, including a barrel type, you must properly disassemble the device:
Removing the rubber tip and ring spring. After that, we proceed to remove the drill sleeve casing itself.
We carefully take out the steel ball, which acts as a fixation.
Removing the switch handle, having previously placed the operating mode lever in the maximum position. Press the button to fix the position.
Removing the cover (rear) on the handle.
Removing the motor brush.
Removing the front part, for which you need to unscrew the 4 screws located near the drill.
We take out the rotor. To do this, unscrew the crepes located on the stator, then detach 4 terminals from the stator contacts.
We take out the remaining parts.
In some cases, if the problem lies in the gearbox or the percussion mechanism, we additionally unscrew the end of the gearbox housing, and then carefully remove the casing made of plastic. To keep the parts in place, it is best to do this entire process with the tool on its side.
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In most cases, repairs involve replacing broken and defective parts. But there are other problems in the operation of the instrument:
Breakdown of the winding. To solve the problem, rewind the armature and stator.
Wear of brushes. In this case, they resort to disassembling the puncher and replacing the worn parts.
Wear of the anther of the hammer drill. It cannot be repaired, only replaced.
Punch chuck. The problem will be noticeable if its rim starts to slow down constantly. Replaceable.
Poor lubrication.Check the oil level in the oil pan periodically. Some parts of the tool should also be lubricated: the intermediate shaft, the gear wheel.
Bearing wear. The bearings gradually collect dust and dirt during operation, the grease thickens, they begin to overheat and, as a result, fail. Replaceable.
If the breakdown is serious, and you have no experience in repairing, the best option for you is to contact experienced craftsmen. Do not start repairs if you are not sure that you can independently identify the cause of the breakdown, and are not able to solve it!
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The chainsaw is a worthy replacement for hand saws and axes. Today, this tool is available in almost every household - it is indispensable for setting up a personal plot, construction and repair work. Intensive use and improper care of the tool can lead to premature failure. However, the owner of the chainsaw does not have to go to the workshop right away - many of the faults that can happen to her during operation are quite realistic to eliminate on their own.
Correct diagnosis is essential for a successful repair. Therefore, in order to determine why the chainsaw failed and, most importantly, how to make it work again, you first need to know the features of its design.
It should be noted that it does not differ in particular complexity, since it includes:
engine (two-stroke gasoline);
functional part (saw bar and chain);
systems that ensure the joint operation of these two units (ignition, filtration, lubrication, etc.), that is, the tool as a whole.
In order to simplify the diagnosis of malfunctions, it is customary to distinguish them into two main categories:
engine malfunctions;
malfunctions of other parts of the chainsaw.
Most often, failures occur in the engine systems, however, the rest of the tool, due to intensive use or improper care, can fail at any time. How to determine exactly where the breakdown occurred? Simple logic will help us with this.
If the problem is in the engine, it will:
do not start;
deafen;
work unstable;
overheat;
smoke;
develop insufficient power.
As for all other malfunctions, as a rule, they manifest themselves with a normally operating motor.
If your chainsaw won't start, the first thing to do is to check for a mixture of fuel in the tank. By the way, it must be prepared in the proportions indicated by the engine manufacturer, otherwise the instrument will simply not start.
After verifying that the fuel mixture is correct and available, the ignition system should be checked. To do this, you need to inspect the spark plug.
Her condition can say a lot:
indicates that the fuel mixture does not enter the carburetor, which means that the problem is not in the ignition;
is the result of an overabundance of the fuel mixture, which lies either in a violation of the engine starting algorithm or in an incorrect carburetor adjustment;
this is a signal about the presence of low-quality oil in the engine lubrication system, incorrect carburetor settings, or an incorrectly prepared fuel mixture.
If the spark plug is splashed with fuel, wipe it thoroughly after removing it. The fuel supply system should also be cleaned. To do this, it overlaps, after which the starter is turned on. A carbonized candle must be carefully cleaned with an awl and emery.
When checking the spark plugs, you should pay attention to the distance between the electrodes (the normal gap is 0.5-0.65 mm), as well as the condition of the gasket and the presence of a spark. A damaged or worn gasket will have to be replaced, and the spark can be checked by putting on the ignition cable, connecting the cylinder and plug nut, and starting the starter.
If the discharge does not occur, the plug must be replaced. In the event that a spark does not appear with a new candle, then the problem is in the connection to the high-voltage wire or in it itself.
If the fuel mixture does not flow into the cylinder, but the spark plug is working properly, this may mean that:
Clogged fuel filter.
To clean this unit, remove the fuel hose and check the jet. If it is weak, the filter must be removed through the filler hole of the fuel tank and cleaned or replaced if completely worn out.
As a preventive measure, it is recommended to replace the fuel filter at least once every 3 months.
This is nothing more than a hole in the fuel tank cap, which is cleaned out with an awl.
The fuel mixture is not supplied or is supplied insufficiently.
There may be several reasons for this:
the air filter is clogged (in this case, it must be removed, rinsed with water, dried and replaced);
the carburetor settings are out of order (which means this unit needs to be re-adjusted);
the integrity of the carburetor membrane is broken (must be replaced);
the channels of the carburetor are clogged (it must be disassembled and all parts and assemblies must be cleaned).
If at low speeds the engine of the chainsaw works normally, but at high speeds it starts to stall and smoke, the problem may be hidden in the muffler.
To check the quality of its work, you should do:
dismantling (with the obligatory closing of the outlet);
disassembly (if the muffler is collapsible);
cleaning from carbon deposits using special detergents or dry method;
drying (using a hair dryer);
reassembly and assembly.
Dry cleaning without respiratory protection is not recommended. The carcinogens present in the soot will be released into the surrounding atmosphere in the form of dust, the inhalation of which is extremely hazardous to health.
To prevent clogging of the muffler during the operation of the chainsaw, you should carefully monitor the composition of the fuel mixture and the quality of its components.
If the chainsaw engine does not start or cannot develop normal power, it is likely that sufficient pressure does not build up in the engine cylinder for combustion of the fuel mixture. The reason for this may be the wear of the elements of the cylinder-piston group - the piston, rings, bearings, etc. In order to assess the condition of this unit, it should be visually inspected, having previously removed the muffler.
For a more complete diagnosis, a compression gauge is placed in the spark plug hole of the two-stroke engine of the chainsaw. It measures the compression in the engine. Based on the results of the check, one can judge the state of the CPG, however, the exact facts can only be obtained with a complete disassembly of the unit.
If the piston is chipped or scratched, it will obviously need to be replaced. The same applies to deformed or broken piston rings - for normal engine operation, they must be completely intact and free of carbon deposits.
A properly working carburetor guarantees maximum efficiency of the chainsaw, that is, it is possible to develop full power with the most economical consumption of the fuel mixture. The adjustment of this unit is usually carried out by the manufacturer, but its design provides for the possibility of adjustment already during operation.
The fact that such a setting will have to be performed by the owner of the chainsaw is evidenced by:
Strong vibrations or damage to the protective cover.
CPG wear.
Carburetor clogged.
Inability to start the engine or its spontaneous stops after starting.
Increase in fuel consumption and emissions while decreasing engine power.
Chainsaw carburetor adjustment is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions using three special screws, which are responsible for the maximum ("M") and minimum ("L") revolutions, as well as the idle speed of the engine ("T"). In order to exclude unwanted interference by an inexperienced user with the carburetor operation, some manufacturers install only one idle screw.
Carburetor adjustment is carried out in two stages:
Basic (carried out with the engine off).
Finishing (carried out with a running, pre-warmed engine).
For basic adjustment, screw in screws H and L as far as the stop and back out 1.5 turns. Final adjustments require the engine to warm up for 5-10 minutes at low revs.
The final calibration is performed by unscrewing the idle screw until the minimum engine speed is reached (in this case, its operation must be stable, and the chain must be stationary). If the engine stops at idle speed, the screw must be returned back, and if the saw chain is still in motion, continue turning counterclockwise.
Calibration check is performed by test:
Acceleration (with a smooth press on the accelerator, the engine should quickly pick up speed to the maximum indicator).
Maximum speed (if there is an ignition interruption, screw H should be slightly loosened).
Work at idle speed (the chain should not move, and the engine should pick up speed as quickly as possible).
If the owner of the chainsaw is not familiar with the carburetor device and does not have the tool necessary to calibrate it, contact a specialist. The carburetor is a very complex unit, so any wrong action can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, complete engine failure.
If the diagnostics showed that everything is in order with the engine and its systems, then the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in other units of the chainsaw. The most common problems are:
failure of the starter;
improper operation of the lubrication system;
incorrect operation of the chain brake;
saw chain wear, etc.
If the cause of the tool failure is not visible to the naked eye, as is the case with the engine, it is necessary to perform a thorough diagnosis of the faults and eliminate them in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and safety regulations.
Video (click to play).
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