Rusted wing DIY repair

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Let's talk about replacing the rear arches of the car. Rear arches on some car models are a weak point, easily corroded. There are options when you can "cure" rust without changing the arches, but, as a rule, the owners of cars pull until the last, when drastic measures are needed. The need to replace the rear arches arises, as a rule, due to their through corrosion. In such cases, all that remains is to cut off all the rusty metal and weld in its place a new, non-rusty segment. How to do this, and what subtleties you need to take into account. Let's take a look at everything in detail.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the corroded area. To do this, you need to clean off the old paintwork in a place where rust is visible. An autopsy, as they say, will show what's under the paint. It is necessary to clean it, with a margin retreating from the zone with corrosion to the zone with normal metal. An autopsy usually reveals that there is much more rust than meets the eye.

Next, we need to cut off all the corroded metal. We use the "grinder", we cut everything down to pure metal. After the rusty segment has been cut off, the reverse side of the remaining intact metal should be checked as far as possible. Why do we need this? It so happens that the front part of the part does not contain corrosion, but on the reverse side everything is much sadder. Usually you just have to enlarge the cut area a little in order to weld the repair segment to the good metal on both sides.

Cut out segment of the rear wing Arch self-made from sheet metal

Further to us you need to take a repair insert somewhere for welding and restoring the arch. Here you can choose the following options:

1. Take the desired segment from the donor's rear wing.
2. Take the required part from the new repair panel for the rear wing (if there is one on sale for the car model being repaired).
3. Cut the desired segment from sheet metal (usually from an unnecessary body panel). It all depends on what shape you need the segment. If a large part of the arch with complex shapes, edging was cut, then of course it is better to take and cut out a similar part from the donor's wing. Again, it depends on the cost of the rear wing of a particular car. Despite the complexity of the shapes, it is also possible to bend the desired segment from, for example, an unnecessary hood. If a complex shape does not work out, then you can make a segment of several simpler ones by welding them together.
4. Another option is to take the desired segment from a new or used front wing. In most car models, the front and rear fenders are similar in shape. The front wing is usually cheaper and easier to find than the rear wing. Thus, we take the desired “piece” from the front wing and adjust it to the rear one.

Welding a homemade arch New renovation arch The front fender is similar in shape to the arch of the rear fender.

How do I cut a sheet metal patch to the desired shape?

You can apply this method. Take a cardboard, lean it against the cut area and the borders of the cut area will be printed on it.Now you can cut a stamp out of cardboard along these boundaries, and use this stamp to cut out the necessary patch from metal. It is better to slightly increase the borders on the metal being cut out, since it will need to be welded with an overlap.

Welding the repair insert

The next step is to weld the repair insert. When welding, you must not overheat the metal. It is better to weld with dots, starting from one end of the patch, then weld with a dot on the other side and at intervals, then decrease the interval. The point is that the metal doesn't lead too much.

After welding, you need to clean the seam from oxides and grind the weld seam.

Weld seam protection

Next, you need to protect the seam from corrosion. One option is an epoxy anti-corrosive primer. After the soil has completely dried, you need to grind it without rubbing it to the metal, then you can apply a putty.

The back of the weld is also important to protect. For this, you can use anticorrosive primers in aerosol cans. The most important thing is to get to the back side. If there is no access, then you can use a can with a long tube and a nozzle on it. One of these variants is "Movil". Very comfortable design. You can crawl into a hidden cavity by inserting a tube into a small hole. Movil is not the best option for protecting against corrosion, but the nozzle tube can be adapted to any other protection in an aerosol can.

Then you can proceed to the final removal of the putty, priming with acrylic primer, preparation for painting and the actual painting.

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust here.

In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This, in fact, is a rather interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then we will better understand how to deal with it. The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.

We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.

Actually the question in the photo. The problem is not only in an unaesthetic form, but also in the fact that the rear bumper began to fall off and the plastic protection mounts (inside the wing) fell out.
For some reason, only the rear fenders and rear door sills (on both sides) began to rust. In other places, even where there were scratches and rubbers, there is no rust.

The threshold is rusted through, the wing, it seems, is not yet through and through 🙂

The service said that "you can cook, just not with them, since there is a gas tank pipe nearby."

Nissan Almera 1.6 car (1999).
Any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.

I can offer you to do everything according to your mind for 20,000 rubles. with local painting
such is the New Year's version

but I do not advise you to engage in sculpting, and the view will not be the same, and the reliability is not up to par

"New Year's version" - I meant the price is more correct, of course, to buy repair kits for arches and weld them
then paint professionally
it is absolutely not necessary to remove the tank for this, it is enough to disassemble the filling neck
it would be easier to describe the procedure in more detail with a live examination of the damage

I offer you this option)

if you want for ages, replace it with a piece from disassembly. A piece of threshold + wing arch (wing) will cost 3000-7000r.

Replacement will cost us 7000r.,
repainting will cost us 4000r.

Finding a part is a matter of one day, we are ready to find it according to the data of the car: year of manufacture, modification

Well, for 5 years - this is practically "for centuries" any "popier-mache" will not last 5 years,

but if you digest - everything will be super like new

Buy and weld repair arches. They are not expensive.

Price of work for 1 wing = 3,500 rubles. (tin) + painting of the wing and opening = 7 500 r.

On 11-year-old 2105, I did the following.In addition, there was such a hole:

First, you need a warm garage (in winter). Now about the process.

1. With a drill with a crown-shaped metal brush, we completely remove the rust to something like this:

By the way, on the other side of the car it was more similar to your case, here is the result of cleaning:

2. Now we take fiberglass (some people use nylon stockings, but I will not recommend it), cut it out so that it repeats the contour of the cleaned "hole" with an allowance of 1-2 centimeters. Degrease the surfaces around the "hole" with alcohol.

3. We smear the glass cloth with a special automotive epoxy glue (two-component stinking rubbish in cans), stick it in place of the hole, smooth it out. There is no need to try to achieve the desired shape right away - the main thing is that the glued fabric is not "curved" outward from the original body profile.

4. After three hours we look at the result. If the fabric is strongly bent, repeat the procedure over the glued layer. The second layer will smooth out easily. When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile so that after applying a minimum of putty.

5. We are waiting for three hours until it dries. Then we take a two-component putty and make a batch.Without thinking twice (otherwise it will harden), apply the mass with a spatula over the glued fiberglass in such a way as to recreate the original geometry of the place to be repaired. Along the edges of the fabric, you need to "go out" with a putty on the metal so that the edges of the fabric can be seen well.

6. The next day we pick up a drill with a nozzle-circle, on which a delicate skin is fixed. We sand the surface in such a way that it becomes almost smooth and that the transition from putty to the metal of the body becomes minimally noticeable (do not sand it to fiberglass - it will only get worse).

7. Wipe and degrease the surface, apply a primer (using a spray can at a distance of 30-40 cm) in two layers. Take a break for 20 minutes between layers. After a couple of hours after priming, we take a can of paint and apply this very paint to the place being repaired.

motivation is not right. I have never heard that a part of the part would be replaced with plastic. Only the whole part.

If you think a little, it is quite obvious that a welded joint of two metal sheets is somewhat more reliable than gluing. even if it's a highly advertised poxipol. It seems to me that rivets will be even stronger than epoxy / polyester glue.

I don't know what kind of special automotive resins, I divide them into epoxy and polyester. The former seem to be stronger, the latter seem to harden faster. Epoxy is typically advised to be processed no earlier than 24 hours after mixing. Polyester "rises" an order of magnitude faster.

Next: "When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile,"
Don't do that.
The fact is that when gluing fiberglass, resin plays the role of only a binder, but not a forming material. Therefore, there should be a minimum of resin, only for impregnating the fiberglass (I pasted the bumper last time - in the absence of fiberglass, I used a painter's bandage, a kind of airy synthetics), but not for the formation of volume. Resin, in general, is itself a fragile substance, therefore, in fiberglass it is not so much resin that "works" as a filler.

It makes sense to bend the desired surface from something before applying the first layer of "fiberglass", with a margin of several layers. For a piece of a bumper, I bent it corny from the inside out of a metal mesh from the nearest construction market. Grid with a square 5x5mm. And on it there are several layers of the specified material impregnated with epoxy. After a day, you can grind (although the resin is fragile, but strong, it is better to grind with a machine, I walked "into black" with a cleaning disc on a grinder. irregularities, and then aluminum or something like that.

but I agree with previous speakers that such a "repair" is advisable for sale. It's better for yourself, after all, to weld the patch. either by cutting out from the donor, or by adjusting the sheet pieces with the subsequent removal of the surface of the putty. With non-crooked hands, it will be more reliable and more durable than epoxy patches.

Yes, by the way, there is another "home option": cut out the damaged pieces, but not weld the patches, but solder them.

and a few photos:
about the form for gluing: (the screws are subsequently unscrewed, traces of them are plastered)

about patches: on the left in the process (what was almost absent, traces of seams are visible), on the right the result (do not pay attention to the white balance, the color is black. 🙂

a year and a half has passed until (ugh * 3) there are no holes.

shl. the thresholds and boxes were completely amputated. 🙂

ps. about the gas tank. they just didn't want to go to the service. On the Volga, they made me a rear fender and a fender liner, the gas tank was banally removed for the time of welding, and the pipes were taken to the side.

Look for a less snazzy service that will remove the gas tank and find a donor for disassembly.

Well, I'll take it on, because I did it only "for myself" once without experience and knowledge.

Since then, by the way, the car has been going through its second winter (now with a new owner) and these places do not give themselves away.

Oleg, hello! Please tell me if I will do the right thing ... Three small holes have formed on my door (under the factory vibration isolation everything is completely rusty and as a result 3 holes, the car is 3 years old, Kalina2). I want to tin them, cover them with epoxy primer, then putty with a finishing putty, prime them with a regular primer and paint over everything. Tell me, will I do it all correctly in stages?

Hello. Can you please tell me how you missed the net?

The method is of course a working one, but by welding it can be done 100 times faster in labor costs.

here we are not talking about labor costs, but about reliability and the fact that not everyone has welding

Who repairs such things, those who have it)))

Epoxy would not be better?

Uncle Olezha, everything is fine, but the lack of students' workwear is striking.
A guy from Makhachkala comes straight in a weekend jacket to the garage

no guys in a robe go to and from work

Interesting and useful video, among other things, like everyone else! Can you use this method on the doors in the corners?

Many Premasya owners and others are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it at the initial stage, avoiding the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a donor organ transplant in the form of a wing patch will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and it looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can go straight to the end, where you will find out how you can protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disk and clean off the swollen paint, carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will then rise:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper, so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if the layers of primer and paint are consistently visible:

To speed up the process, you can first take a coarser skin - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk of a rougher 220 will not close with soil, so do not climb far to it. The rest of the surface is matted with 600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that it is necessary to dry thoroughly with prof. a hairdryer, especially caverns from corrosion, can be heated up to 60-80g, the paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttingtying is that they smear it with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with a sandpaper. It will be correct to apply 3-4 layers in succession, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should look something like this:

On top of the ground, apply a thin layer of a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a spray can. The dried soil is rubbed with 600-800 sandpaper with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water, sandpaper 1000 and then Scotchbrite. The result is a smooth matte surface:

We paste over, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about paints. I do not advise you to consider cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture poorly. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist can match a color 100%. It is believed in narrow circles that 70-80% of color matching depends on the colorist, the rest depends on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, paint the paint.A good painter will never paint end-to-end parts, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part, you have to paint two or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire wing, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no discoloration even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and under a lamp in the evening, as if parts from different cars?

Corrosion of the arch begins with damage to the edge by small stones flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, it is necessary to protect this place. We buy elastic bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for VAZ-08. Cutting off the excess:

We coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive well on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that the water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, you get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to shorten the repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on the diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Provided the technology is followed, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing too complicated, go for it!

Hello dear community!

As I promised yesterday, I'm going to post a post about how, in near-field conditions, to bring a rusty car to life in detail, or even in its entirety.

What do many sexually mature citizens want, in their 18-20 years? That's right, the car. Does everyone have enough money for a new one? no. So I did not have enough, and back in 2005 I would have bought a Nissan Bluebird '89 car.

The state was outwardly that is technically, in principle, normal, but some more experienced comrade said this - “if it was a horse, I would suggest to shoot it”.

There are two options - either give it to the service for a complete reduction of the body to the form of God (at that time about 60-70 tr.) Or do it yourself :)

Having collected a little money for the summer, took a vacation, received a couple more "combat" wounds, in the form of a punched hole in the rear left door and a slightly crumpled muzzle -

I went to my uncle's dacha.

Pre-purchased:

1.paint - 3 liters (1 left)

4.finishing putty 1 kg (and bought 1 more after)

5. putty with fiberglass - 1 kg.

6. solvent - 5 l. (for degreasing)

7.Notice from 120 to 1200 grit.

From an additional tool, a compressor and a semi-automatic welding were used (yes, yes, without these things there was nothing to do here, sadly)

What else do we need? And it will take us a lot of time. A lot of patience. Accuracy!

Let's start with the analysis of unnecessary and interfering elements such as optics, handles, moldings, bumpers.

The wing is light from what is changeable.

Next, you need to assess the scale of the disaster - if the car is popular, and there are a lot of spare parts for it - then, believe me, buying, even a little with jambs, but a rotten attachment, will be a good option.

And if the car is rare, you can't find spare parts and they are all in the same condition as yours, then hang on here, good mood for you (C).

Rust is like caries. It is not enough to “plaster” it from the outside. It must be withdrawn. Parts on both sides.

If the rust is through - you need to put patches.

An example of through rye on my current car -

Understand how not to cover it up with putty, how not to spray it with a transducer - you-go-zet again.

So, what is rusty but not to holes - we clean out completely.

The better you clean it, the longer it will live.

What is through is cut out. And weld in the patch. Well, or is there still such a life-like how to rivet a patch, but because welding was available - I did not use it.

Having killed most of the rusty -

I am VERY sorry for the quality of the photo, they were made on something like a Nokia with a 3.2 megapixel camera 10 years ago :)

The thresholds were welded from the VAZ 2109.

The missing pieces on the wings and doors are made of metal from broken cars.

before puttingty, try, at least by eye, to "hammer", to clean the welding mounds and other protruding parts with a grinder. Trust me, save tons of time.

Pre-matanuv putty with 120th sandpaper (while we still do not care, 120, 320, or 800). Let's get started.

Surface - degrease and free from dust.

Ideally - with such a yermont - be the first to use fiberglass ("hairy") putty.

But don't overdo it! Better to apply 2-3 coats than to sharpen the excess oily first coat all day.

It's not scary yet if you rub a little to the metal.

It dries for 30-40 minutes in the air (summer, about 20 grazhus).

Then we take 320th sandpaper and rub it. The surface should acquire a shape close to the factory one. But this is still not the finish line, small irregularities are still allowed here.

Volosyanka, I remind you, is difficult to sharpen, but it's worth it! By the way, you need to sharpen not with sandpaper on the palm, but on a block - otherwise you will make holes.

Next, satisfied with the intermediate result, we putty with finishing putty. She, having dried the same half an hour (maybe a little more - it's easy to check - scratch it with your fingernail - it should not roll, should be scratched) perfectly grinds with the same 320 sandpaper on a bar. By the way! do not forget to degrease the surface before each layer (for this there was 5 liters of solvent)

As a result, the boiled and crumpled part takes on something like this -

It took me a day and a half to find this door. The same amount - on the trunk lid.

On the fenders, hood, and so on, it took about a week in total.

Let me remind you again! Do well! None of your flaws by painting and even tembolee varnish will NOT be corrected! And under varnish, on the contrary, it will be even more noticeable.

So, sir. Having putty the whole car, our next step will be the primer.

For this we need a compressor - not necessarily an expensive one. not necessarily new and spray gun - also not necessarily expensive and new.

It is necessary to prime it, having previously covered everything non-removable with a newspaper, covering material, or something else.

In principle, work can be carried out even on the street, but so that there is a minimum of dust.

You should glue it carefully, you do it for yourself!

And it doesn't matter what - with covering material from the store for money, or with a newspaper from the mailbox for free.

It is desirable to apply the primer in one layer. One, not a bold layer, but at the same time covering everything in one color.

Before priming - do not forget to degrease all surfaces!

Further - we leave the car at least for a day (if it is drying on the street, we do not have a spray booth? :)

Did you think that's pretty much everything? NO! Another great crap is waiting for us - the developing layer. You can, of course, just wipe the car with 800 sandpaper and paint it like that. But is that why we spent almost two weeks with putty ?! Not!

Developing layer is easy :) We take any paint in a spray can, which contrasts with the primer. In my case, it was black.

And thinly, degreasing the surface, apply. We do not need to cover the ground, the developing layer is given only to identify flaws.

We let it dry a little, take the 800th sandpaper, a block, and with some water - we begin to slowly sharpen the soil. If there are no flaws, the development is worn off. Where there is a chipping, hollow, etc. - development will remain, this is its essence.

For example - in the photo you can see where the development is overwritten and where there is no development -

Where they rubbed to the putty, and even more so to the metal, you still need to work a little :)

Squeeze the surface, putty. Where the development is left is just a shap.

Next - to prime the repeated places.

Rub again where primed, a day after priming!

And now, we come to what they were waiting for - painting!

We are preparing an impromptu "camera" from rails and film from a greenhouse :)

We drive the car there. We pour water over the floor, no matter what you have, so that dust does not rise! Ideally, blow off the machine itself first.

The less dust - the more the work will delight your eyes.

It is better to start painting in the morning. Business is not quick, but it requires maximum accuracy and care.

Body paint according to the instructions.

The photo shows the first layer. Don't make it fat! However. as well as subsequent ones. Otherwise, it will flow. After all, we need quality, not the result of painting the fence by Moscow housing offices.

Having given a couple of layers of paint, between them - about 20 minutes (but if the car is painted entirely, then there is no need to wait between the layers - the second layer can be started from where the first one started). We cover the car with obscenities, oh, i.e. varnish.

Varnish is a great "lens" - it will show ALL your flaws. Everything that you have been doing for so long, for which you have spent so much effort, can go down the drain. Therefore, I will say once again - it is necessary to putty so that it is even!

It's already under varnish. After half a day, I drove the car out into the street.

By the way, I almost forgot - what was removed (bumpers, radiator grille, handles) was painted side by side, the process with bumpers is a little different, if it's interesting - you tell me, I'll try to describe the whole process, it's a completely different story - plastic.

Here the car is already standing in the evening, dries, waiting for assembly -

Don't start assembling right away. Let the machine sit for a couple of days. Otherwise, one awkward movement - and a fresh scratch on the fresh varnish, what will you do?

Hidden cavities, especially under welding, are MANDATORY. to process.

There are a great many compositions for processing, for example, making an arch on a current car, treated with glass sealant in welding places -

Hidden cavities - every year in the spring I fill in a rast-stop (you can move it) in a balloon.

Here's how it happened.

I saw the car a year after the repair - new saffron milk caps did not come out.

Further, I don’t know. How and what happened with the new owner.

even taking into account the purchase of a used compressor and spray gun, the purchase of materials and other things, you can save a lot of money. After all, now a similar undertaking is in the service, with welding, full painting, etc. I suppose it will cost about 100 tr. With your own hands, you can keep within 30.

Thanks to everyone who has read it. I hope I wasted my time, and what I have written will help someone in the repair.

All cars are listed, well, good mood.

P.S. if the topic is interesting - I can tell you more about other bodywork and not very repairs.

Saw of course :) why not?

The author tried, he covered up the number, and on the 5th photo below it lies on the panel under the forehead)

"Selling Nissan Bluebird '89, not bit, not beautiful" 😀

Krasava! I have questions, how did you process the bottom? thresholds?

There are also answers to your questions :)

The rapids were flooded with working off (yes, yes, waste oil) and then Movil.

The bottom was surprisingly intact, so I didn't touch it.

In the next post I think to tell you more about the "bottom" of the car.

Why will I be frank about cutting the post out of my hand, because I have not preserved a photo of such a repair. For this reason, I will unsubscribe you in the comments.

We take as a basis the situation when a person wants to make a complete restoration of the appearance and structure of the car body.

After I put the engine and hodovka in order, I decided to get into the automotive body. I am not a fan of driving a car in which I do not know every inch. Visually, it was immediately clear that the thresholds needed to be repaired, there were sloping holes on both sides, as well as the front passenger wing, did not hide rot and a small hole was visible, but in reality everything turned out to be a little more interesting. I drove the car into a hole, partially disassembled the interior beforehand and began tapping the body, armed with a screwdriver and a hammer. After this operation, it was revealed that, among other things, the rear passenger wing had already rotted in three places and that there were already 2 wings for repairs (the front driver's wing was in perfect condition, the rear driver's wing had no rot, but some attention would need to be paid), the trunk on the passenger side also with a hole, the bottom is intact, all supporting structures are also in a tolerable condition. If all 4 wheel arches were on the car, there would not have been any problems with the fenders for a very, very long time, I cannot imagine why only 1 front wheel arch liner was left on the car, the rest were missing.

Initially, of course, the idea was to BOOK! I thought, well, what, I’ll buy metal on the parsing on the cheap, I’ll find welding or a welder with it, who along the way will weld everything inexpensively, but in the harsh reality, I could not find a cheap welder or welding, and if I did everything, then immediately good, that is, if you patch up the body, then immediately restore it entirely, and so, in some places, with rivets. what's the point? And for the price it is still quite an expensive pleasure. Then an alternative idea came to mind, to eliminate the rotten metal and protect the body from moisture and air. All the same, the car is 18 years old, there is no idea to completely turn it into a new one, not rational expenses for me at the moment, and if you leave everything as it is, then autumn and winter will quickly destroy the already tired body.

Started with the rear passenger wing

Until I poked a hole, it was like this

Alas, there are few photos, I got so carried away that I forgot to shoot

I did not capture the hole itself, I shot the penultimate stage already. The course of work was as follows:

1. Chopped up the rotten dust around the circumference. 2. Cleaned the surface (washed, smoked) 3. I treated it with zinc, thereby leaving the residual rust. 4. Vacuuming the cavity from the debris

5. Ordinary polyurethane foam was poured into the same cavity. It looked something like this:

6. While the foam was drying, I treated the wing with anticorrosive Cordon

And since it takes exactly 24 hours to completely solidify the foam, I continued the next day.

Then the process looked like this:

Of course, it would be possible to cover the hole with foam with the same cordon and complete this collective farm, but the foam is very soft in structure, so putty with fiberglass came to the rescue.

7. We proceed to puttying.

For the base, we need a mesh, ideally a metal one, but you can also use a regular construction one, which I used. We take some surface and prepare our putty, mix it with the hardener (tube) that comes with the kit. For 100 g of spatula, 2 g of hardener is needed, mix and apply to the mesh. We literally press the putty into the mesh so that a solid wall forms when it dries. The putty dries quickly, literally 15-20 minutes and like a stone.

8. After drying, we go through with a sandpaper, it is better to soak the skin in water beforehand, so that it does not clog so quickly.

The second hole was in a very uncomfortable place (wing tip). I had to work from two sides at once. I did not capture the hole itself, the result after the putty:

Well, in the ending it turned out like this:

Even when I tapped the metal, I saw a bulge on the outside of the wing and picked it up lightly ... Voila, hole 3. As a result, I had to patch the outside, and there, without painting, no matter how and how successfully a spray of paint lay in the garage for a long time. The color of course did not fit, but the main thing was to paint over the putty and sanded surface

The entire affected area is highlighted in black, on which the mesh and spatula were applied. The approximate size of the hole in green

Well, here's the final version. Spray painting in 3 layers

Somehow it happened. In general, I am satisfied with the result, everything was much more complicated with the front, but more on that in 2 parts.

The body of any car is its most expensive part, therefore it needs constant care and cosmetic repairs. Pull-through corrosion is a problem for many modern machines. Are there ways to avoid buying a new car frame and how to seal the hole without welding - these are two pressing questions of many car owners.

The cost of work in car services is impressive, so many people prefer to repair their cars on their own.

Repairing corrosion without welding is the cheapest and easiest way to fix the problem. To do this, you need to buy the following set:

• Aluminum mesh with a size of approximately 25 * 18 cm;
• Scotch tape (preferably metal);
• Fiberglass putty;
• 80 or 120 grit sandpaper;
• Air machine for leveling surfaces;
• Universal putty;
• Primer;
• Paint (to match the body);
• Varnish;
• Means for polishing paintwork.

All work to quickly eliminate a hole in the body without welding is carried out in stages:

• Cleaning the damaged area from rust and paint;
• Fixing the aluminum mesh body with adhesive tape on an empty space (there should be space between the adhesive tape strips to fill the mesh with putty);

When securing the mesh, every effort must be made to secure it flush with the fender.