Vacuum cleaner lji do it yourself repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair ldzhi vacuum cleaner from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

For the vacuum cleaners of the Korean company LG, which has long mastered the production of this type of household appliances (it even produces garden vacuum cleaners), rather high reliability is characteristic. Most of the models have high suction power and are easy to operate and maintain.

The cause of malfunctions is most often an overloaded engine, a negligent attitude to technology or a factory defect. To extend the life of a home assistant, you should follow the rules of operation and monitor its technical condition. If repairs are unavoidable, refer to the information on how much it will cost to replace worn parts.

Before taking the vacuum cleaner for repair, you should determine the cause of the equipment failure and try to eliminate it.

Below are typical malfunctions of LG vacuum cleaners (even handheld vacuum cleaners for the home of this company) and their causes:

poor suction - the power regulator is incorrectly installed; the dust container is full; the filter is dirty;
poor-quality garbage collection - the brush or nozzles are worn out and need to be replaced; the drive belts are worn out;
unpleasant odor - the trash bag may be full; if it smells like burnt rubber, check belts and bearings;
loud hum during operation - bearing wear;
buttons are broken, the hose is broken, the cord is damaged - due to careless handling of equipment (a common problem with LG vacuum cleaners).

Sometimes a vacuum cleaner prematurely loses its performance due to a hidden factory defect or as a result of a fake brand name. In this situation, the presence of a warranty card helps the consumer to protect his rights. If the warranty is not expired, a free repair will be performed at an LG Service Center.

Video (click to play).

The motor breaks down if:

the collector has overheated due to increased sparking or physical wear of the bearings has occurred (a common problem with Philips vacuum cleaners);
the engine is overheated due to insufficient ventilation;
water has entered the engine, therefore a short circuit has occurred or its elements have suffered from corrosion.

Testing helps to establish that the motor is faulty. It also allows you to determine what kind of problem occurred and whether the most important unit of the device needs to be restored. A list of tests for the engine is provided.

The vacuum cleaner does not start (frequent breakdown of Philips vacuum cleaners)... If there is voltage in the network, the socket, cord, plug are in good working order, then you should contact the workshop. The contacts may have broken, but most likely, there was an inter-turn stator short circuit. It is necessary to replace the engine - repair is not possible in this case.
The vacuum cleaner hums, roars... As mentioned above, the motor bearings are to blame. If they are out of order, but the fan impeller is intact, the motor is repairable. However, the cost of the work is almost the same as the price of the new engine.
Strong vibration, crackling, grinding... This is a sign of damage to the impeller, most often due to the ingress of a foreign object. Impeller repair is not practiced, the motor is completely replaced. By the way, the malfunction may also be in the vacuum cleaner brush.
Sparking, smoke, burning smell... The collector carbon brushes are worn out. Subject to the timely termination of the vacuum cleaner, these motor parts must be replaced. If, despite the malfunctions, they continued to use the vacuum cleaner, the collector fails. In this case, it is necessary to install a new motor.

To replace the engine, proceed in this order:

using a screwdriver, unscrew the 4 screws securing the cover;
disconnect 2 latches;
take out the engine, disconnect the wiring (remembering its location);
a new engine is placed in the housing, then all operations are carried out in the reverse order.

The cost of the motor for the main models of vacuum cleaners depends on its power and dimensions. You can buy an engine for the LG PA2210 unit for 660 rubles, for the LG VCE284E08 model - for 1245 rubles. The most expensive is the purchase of an engine for the LG VMC753E5 vacuum cleaner and other vertical vacuum cleaners - 3000 rubles.

It is preferable to repair the engine in a specialized workshop with equipment, tools, electrical measuring instruments and stands. If you buy an engine yourself, then replacing it costs only 200 - 300 rubles.
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1. Hose. It must be cleaned regularly, and if it is thoroughly clogged or burst, the hose must be replaced with a new one. To buy a hose for different models of LG vacuum cleaners is offered at a price of 700 to 900 rubles. The hose has various configurations.

The corrugated tube is traditional. The hose can be replaced with a more modern version - its control is on the handle. In this case, the hose becomes a multifunctional unit of the separator vacuum cleaner.

2. Dust collector. Before you buy a dust bag, you should know its label. The most common type is "DB-33" - with a rectangular flange and without a dust damper. This dust collector is used in such series of LG vacuum cleaners: Storm, Extron, Turbo (modifications Alpha, Beta, Delta, S, X).

Dust collector "DB-42" is designed for Turbo vacuum cleaners (max, Gamma, Storm, Magic). These bags also have a rectangular flange, they also have technological cutouts. Dust collector "DB-63" is designed for brands of vacuum cleaners Sharc, Vollk, Vollk Plus.

The universal TH 1 UH dust collector is suitable for all models. All bags are available in two versions: paper or synthetic material. Synthetic bags (4 pcs. Per set) cost an average of 800 rubles. Paper bags can be bought for 240 rubles. (set of 5).

3. HEPA filter. This reusable filter filters the air coming out of the vacuum cleaner. If this filter is clogged, the indicator lamp on the handle comes on - in this case it should be washed. Buy a HEPA filter for LG vacuum cleaners is offered for 300 rubles.

4. Filter on the engine (inlet). The reusable device is washed at least every six months. If the warning light is on, the air purifier also needs flushing. The filter costs an average of 740 rubles.

5. Brushes, attachments. The kit usually includes a brush for an LG vacuum cleaner (for cleaning the flooring), a nozzle for furniture and crevices. For washing vacuum cleaners, other attachments have also been developed - for example, LG VK80102HX (for the Compressor series of vacuum cleaners). It allows you to collect dust and clean the floor at the same time. To help the attachments last longer, they are cleaned and rinsed after each cleaning. If the attachments are worn out or out of order, they are easy to buy.

Read also: DIY repair of euro windows

The turbocharged brush for the LG vacuum cleaner costs 700 rubles. Slotted and furniture nozzles, depending on the model of the vacuum cleaner, can be bought for 150 - 350 rubles. Nozzles for washing vacuum cleaners are somewhat more expensive - from 500 to 750 rubles.
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It must be said right away that the diagnostics and repair of LG vacuum cleaners is a copy of the diagnostics and repair of Samsung vacuum cleaners. Therefore, as in the case of Samsung products, equipment diagnostics is estimated at about 100 rubles. Repairing the power cord, replacing knobs and buttons cost an average of 100 rubles. Restoring the functions of the electronic module costs 300 - 400 rubles. Repair of a washing vacuum cleaner is estimated by workshops at 900 rubles.

You can replace the engine filter, hose, HEPA filter with your own hands - for this, you should find the corresponding sections and schematic images in the vacuum cleaner operating manuals. See how Thomas vacuum cleaners are repaired, and you can repair LG vacuum cleaners using the same principle.

Regardless of the type of vacuum cleaner, the heart is called the engine. Television programs like to depict the creation of a vacuum, which, in our opinion, is an inept manipulation of words. The motor draws in air by the blade, the filter keeps the moving parts from dust. Each bearing is equipped with an insert for this purpose.The engine is devoid of protection from vacuum ... Do-it-yourself repair of a vacuum cleaner is advisable when the heart of the device is functioning properly, there is a need to replace, modify the brushes, lubricate the bearings. It is charming that the devices are similar from the inside, like two drops of water. The mechanical part, the device for collecting dust, filters, brushes, hoses, housings vary. Accessories are an essential part of the appliance. The device of the vacuum cleaner, the basic idea remains the same!

The heart of the vacuum cleaner is rightly called a motor, traditionally a collector motor. Let's take a quick look at the design of an irreplaceable product and create a clear idea. In an asynchronous motor, a rotating field is created by correctly distributing the phases by the windings, the winding collector commutes in series. There are unpopular exceptions. The direction of movement is determined by the direction of engagement:

The current flows, the fields work for attraction.
The current flows, the fields are repelled.

As for the question why the rotor turns exactly in this direction, not opposite when connecting the windings unidirectionally, the answer is revealed by the mutual arrangement of the brushes and stator coils, the structure of the collector. The number of coils is wound on the armature, equal to the number of contact pads of the shaft. The brushes feed a single winding at a time. Then the shaft rotates a certain angular distance, the next coil is energized. One revolution passes, the cycle begins anew.

Imagine the stator pole (so far only one - not two), located at the bottom. Suppose, at the initial moment of time, the brushes are set so that the armature pole is fed to the left of the building axis. Then, due to repulsion, the shaft begins to describe the hour hand. The axis passes the angular distance, the current begins to flow around the next winding, which managed to take the place of the previous one. This happens as long as the current exists. And there is no difference, constant or variable. The collector motor will run driven by the direction of the field. The speed of rotation is not determined by the frequency - by the design of the mechanical part, by the magnitude of the voltage.

Now if the fields are attracted, the rotation will start counterclockwise. By the time the stator and rotor poles become opposite each other, the power will be transferred to the next coil, which will begin to create the required force. The cycle is circular. Now the coils. Brush motors are equipped with a pair of stator windings for direct current because the alternating current encounters too much resistance from the inductors. This is why some brushed motors are designed with separate stator leads. It will allow you to use one instead of two windings. It is clear that the load capacity drops significantly. But losses are decreasing.

In a vacuum cleaner on the motor stator, we notice two diametrically opposite windings that help each other. Mutually beneficial coexistence is ensured by the correct direction of inclusion (wrote above). Reversing motors have a special power relay that switches the poles in proper order. For comparison, in an induction motor, a similar relay distributes the voltage phases in a different way. It turns out a reverse. The collector motor does not require a starting winding and a capacitor (one phase), which try to imitate the second winding. Simply put, the efficiency of three-phase asynchronous motors is higher. The brainchilds of Nikola Tesla and Dolivo-Dobrovolsky are used by industrial equipment, in the 90s they were replaced by collector equipment from household appliances (vacuum cleaners were traditionally supplied with graphite brushes before the restructuring).

Two brushes are used to transfer current to the armature. The difference is leveled, where plus, where minus, the direction is provided by the correct commutation.

Is it possible, by changing the order of connecting the brushes, to make the motor rotate in the opposite direction. The polarity of the field is reversed. This technique is used to obtain a constant voltage reverse.When doing self-repair of vacuum cleaners, remember the correct position of the contacts.

A tangential fan is hidden behind the filters for coarse and fine air purification. Air enters in the center, is discharged to the periphery, moving forward, enters the room through a HEPA filter that traps particles of a few microns (micrometers) in size. The blade is covered with a cover, the part is made in the form of curved aluminum partitions between two metal planes. Closed channels are obtained. The engine is enclosed by a plastic casing (traditionally white), in which the outlet flow path is cut.

It is interesting! Due to the presence of a tangential fan, the efficiency of the vacuum cleaner barely reaches 20-30%. With a power consumption of 1600 W, the suction will be 350 W.

Brushes are fixed in mines, it is good for beginners to know: this is a typical pencil graphite (carbon, coal). You can, if necessary, sharpen the parts, adjust as needed, so that they become in place. If the area of contact with the collector is small, it is not scary, gradually the brushes will wear in. The tips are slightly grinded in a semicircle inward. Each brush is pressed by a spring through which the current passes, the measure will provide a long service life to the products. The carbon will work until it wears down to the ground. However, the copper collector must be kept clean. Wipe with your favorite product if necessary, remove the oxide film to a coppery shine.

The shaft is attached to the stator with two bearings. Different sizes to make it easier to disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor. The front bearing is large and the rear bearing is small. The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator by suitable means (pneumatic puller), moderate heating helps. The bearings are equipped with anthers. Although the vacuum cleaner creates a vacuum, dirt gets in there too. The anthers are carefully removed with a screwdriver if necessary to lubricate the parts. Suitable: composition HADO, Litol - 24, EP - 2. The grease is put inside, the boot is put in place.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair begins by removing the case. In each case, the methods are different. Filters blocking access to the engine are removed. The electrical installation is disconnected (the vacuum cleaner is unplugged), the plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the base. Remove the motor from the casing, after which the fan is removed. The nut has a left-hand thread, twist carefully. The fan is followed by a collector-cover, under which the electrical part is hidden. The further course of operations is clear from what was previously read up to the removal of the rotor.

If necessary, the bearings are racked off with a threaded remover or a hydraulic press. Aids are being used. Small balls with a diameter extending into the bearings. It is recommended to flatten on one side so as not to roll. Reverse mounting is done in a similar way. If you hold the armature by the bearing in your hand, the rotation should be fast, quiet, confident. When lubricating, the outer boot is removed, take the trouble to put new spare parts on the same side.

brushes;
bearings;
motor windings;
power wire;
fuse.

Other vacuum cleaners have two motors. The second is located on the brush, where it makes the villi move. Cyclonic models use a turbo, moving air does the work. Constructive refinement simplifies the manufacture of the hose, eliminates one big problem when the wire breaks in the thickness of the rubber. Of course, modern means will allow you to accurately determine the location of the incident, it is better to avoid breakage altogether. The idea of the designers, who placed the motor inside the brush, is easy to understand: there is no need to press when cleaning, the weight is decent. Do you like it, decide for yourself. In the opinion of the editors, the brush should be light to make it easier to operate.

Repair of washing vacuum cleaners does not differ from that described above. However, the units contain a pump that supplies water to the hose. We will return to the question in the reviews later.As for the inlet path, the configuration does not differ from the usual one, excluding the presence of a water filter. Most look like dull boxes filled with water. In some vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter, thin streams of water hit the junction of the hose and the body. Primary dust collection is in operation. However, it is difficult to notice the malfunction. It's another matter if the vacuum cleaner is equipped with a self-diagnosis option, which will prompt the location of the breakdown.

The repair of robotic vacuum cleaners is closely related to the field of electronics. There are nothing service mechanisms at all. However, you will find the engine in a reduced size. Most of the functions are implemented in microcircuits, the memory accommodates various programs. Repairing Electrolux vacuum cleaners will seem like child's play compared to the task of adjusting the work of Rumba or Scuba by the American company iRobot (a developer of US army and police automation). A significant disadvantage of robots is the impossibility of cleaning uneven surfaces. Electronic servants lack the ability to create a vacuum ... use a rotating brush to sweep away dust.

In this article, I will show you how to change the motor on your LG vacuum cleaner. First, let's look at the cases in which this procedure should be carried out. Below I will consider a specific example, but for now let's talk about how to find out whether a motor has burned out or not. Usually modern vacuum cleaners require replacement of the engine in the fifth sixth year of its life. Here I want to note that there is no need to compare the current generation with those vacuum cleaners that were produced in the Soviet Union, these are different things. Now I will talk about what signs indicate that the motor in the vacuum cleaner needs to be changed.

The vacuum cleaner hums a lot. This can be caused by bearing wear. In this case, of course, you can also change the bearings, but believe me and my experience, this does not always help. If you have an increased hum, do not rush to change the engine, first check if the hoses and brush are not clogged.
The vacuum cleaner gets very hot. Undoubtedly, when working, these household appliances should be heated, but to a certain level. In this case, it happens that the vacuum cleaner works great, but no more than 5 minutes, the cause of this trouble can be a thermostat that is installed next to the motor of the vacuum cleaner or on it, and if it overheats, it simply turns it off. Why the vacuum cleaner is heating up, there are several reasons. Now I want to dwell on them a little.

I think you watched the video and realized that there is practically nothing difficult in disassembling and replacing the engine in an LG vacuum cleaner. Now imagine such a situation, a motor has wound up in your vacuum cleaner, you go to the master, the master tells you the price of the repair, and here you have to take into account that the price of the repair consists of two components. The fact is that, basically, craftsmen take for work as much as the cost of the spare part they install. In no case, I do not want to talk about the fact that the craftsmen take extra money, this is fundamentally wrong, because the craftsman who changes the part subsequently puts your equipment under warranty even if this spare part fails within warranty period, he will have to change it for free, that is, for his own money, and this is what determines the price of this service. You must understand that almost all spare parts are now quite low-quality and the craftsmen take risks when they install these parts.Let's look at several reasons for this problem. We discussed the first most important reason above, it was about the motor. Now the turn has come for other parts that are on modern vacuum cleaners.Summarizing all of the above written in this article, we can say this, before thinking about replacing the engine with a vacuum cleaner, first you need to check for operability, other parts, that is: a hose, a brush, gaskets, a semester, a filter, and only then think about how to change motorBefore you disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor yourself, you need to carefully assess your capabilities.A person with little knowledge of technology may not be able to handle this procedure. Disassembly will take time, certain tools and skillful hands. Self-intervention in the technique often leads to irreversible consequences and in the end you have to buy a new motor, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. Replacing or repairing an engine in a workshop is relatively expensive, but it guarantees the end result. And if you disassemble and restore the vacuum cleaner motor yourself, you can save money without disturbing your home budget.

Motor - main node vacuum cleaner. Its failure leads to the complete inoperability of the device. Among the faults requiring disassembly of the electric motor, the most frequent are:

Quick erasure of brushes, sparking.

Excessive noise and vibration.

Excessive heat.

Uneven operation, drop in rpm.

Complete shutdown of the unit.

The reasons for what is happening are standard and typical not only for LG vacuum cleaners, but also for any other models.An engine that does not show signs of life signals a malfunction in the power supply diagram... If the entire electrical circuit is in good condition, the brushes correspond to the required dimensions and shapes, and the rotor spins freely by hand - perhaps one of the motor windings has burned out.Abnormal operation, vibration, increased noise will indicate faulty bearings holding the motor armature. Sparking is usually caused by damaged current collectors or worn brushes.To find out and eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to dismantle the vacuum cleaner motor. Before disassembling the LG model, you need to carefully read with location fastening elements... As a rule, these household appliances can be disassembled quite easily, without the use of forces that can damage the case. Having reached the motor, the conductive wires are disconnected and dismantled.Note: Despite the large number of brands and the variety of vacuum cleaners, they are all equipped with similar electric motors. The differences are expressed in power, size and fastening. The repair is carried out according to the same principle.First of all, the brushes and brush holders are removed. They are fastened with screws or spring clips. The operation is performed using a thin screwdriver. Then the casing covering the impeller is removed. In some lg models, it is rolled up and its release is carried out by bending the bent sides, in others it is easily released by gently tapping a hammer.After that, it is necessary to unscrew the nut that secures the impeller. This - the most difficult moment throughout the entire procedure. The anchor nut is difficult to access. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the rotor is difficult to fix, and access to this part of the engine is much more difficult.There are several ways to solve the problem.Note: the nut (usually 12) securing the impeller has a reverse thread and is unscrewed clockwise.Before the procedure, you need to arm yourself with a 12 spanner wrench, which, in extreme cases, is replaced with open-end or pliers.In order for the anchor to become stationary, you can use the holes located in the end of the motor. They are hidden under a rubber damper that can be easily removed. A thin screwdriver is carefully inserted into the hole and inserted into the gap between the rotor and stator until it splits them apart. This method is simple, but fraught with damage to the windingif you have to make significant efforts to loosen the nut.A vise is needed here. The bars are made from wood. The approximate dimensions are 1X1X4 cm. To be sure, a semicircular recess is made at one end of each bar using a round file. This will allow you to press them more tightly against the anchor and provide a secure grip. The sticks are inserted into the holes for the brush holders and abut against the copper current collector of the rotor.The whole structure is clamped in a vice and provides a secure fixation of the shaft.Caution: When tightening the vise, be very careful not to damage the slip ring. Effort should be minimal.After carrying out this procedure, the nut is unscrewed without any problems using a wrench or pliers.The most effective and safest method. You will need 20 centimeters of soft, insulated wire, with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm. With its help, the back of the anchor is covered. A loop is made. By slowly turning the rotor clockwise, it is necessary to achieve an even laying of the wire on the current collector, as if on a drum or coil. After a few turns, the wire will fill the space between the shaft and the stationary part of the motor. Throwing the key over the nut, unscrewing is performed, which is accompanied by a tighter wedging of the anchor. After removing the nut, the wire is removed.Likewise, fabric strips can be used instead of wire. They are also gradually wrapped around the rotor until they are fully secured.The method is more laborious and requires certain skills. At the end of the shaft, where the nut is located, a slot is made for a screwdriver. An accurate cut can be obtained using an engraver or even an ordinary drill, holding a diamond disc in its jaws.Attention: At the end of work, it is necessary to thoroughly purge the motor from metal filings, which can damage rotating parts or cause a short circuit.After that, the shaft is fixed with a screwdriver inserted into the slot, and the fixing nut is easily unscrewed with an open-end wrench.After unscrewing the nut, the washer is released and the impeller can be easily removed. Following it, the air separator is removed and access to the upper armature bearing mount is opened. The retaining plate is secured with four screws. Having unscrewed them, it is enough to lightly knock on the shaft from the back side (this will require a soft metal guide and a hammer) and remove the rotor.Defective bearings are identified visually and by scrolling. A puller is used for replacement. Usually the whole procedure is not a big problem. Trouble can arise when the bearing is completely destroyed, when it loses balls. If the inner race is stuck to the shaft, it can be loosened by gently grinding off one side. Actions should be neatto prevent the sharpening stone from damaging the rotor shaft.For a person who knows how to properly disassemble the motor of an lg vacuum cleaner, the assembly is not difficult. When performing this procedure, you must not forget about thorough cleaning of the entire unit.Having recognized the device of a household vacuum cleaner, you will be able to do without the help of masters in the future.

Regardless of the manufacturer and type of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners.

But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (rpm) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.

Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running, but you can hear a heavy engine stroke (when turned off) or the engine starts to rattle or buzz strongly, it happens that the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the motor and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The motor is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of the tangential type, where air is drawn in in the center and exits through the periphery and already exits through the rear filter.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, as a rule, this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the collector roller, their middle is ground down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the contact area with the collector pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, by the robots, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the manifold.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.

The shaft is attached to the stator by two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large, and the back is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they get clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a jet of WD-pulleys, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with grease such as Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.

To start some kind of repair or maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that impede access to the motor are removed, the housing screws are unscrewed, including secret ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look where there may still be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the bed and the motor is then removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the body of the vacuum cleaner in special rubber grooves-seals or screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller first of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and gently bend it off the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then gently push the upper part of the casing out, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand, if it scrolls and in this way it is impossible to unscrew the nut, there is one great way
So .. we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push in such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch it in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector with the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws; by this time, the brushes should already be removed.

Then carefully pull out the anchor, twisting the upper part slightly if necessary.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using a commercially available tool or special thread pullers. In especially severe cases, the bearing sometimes “sticks” tightly to the sleeve; a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

bearings
brushes
fuse
network wire
no contact in the switch
motor winding, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
capacitor failure
breakdown of the electronic circuit of the power regulator

Drop in power and suction power.
The most common cause is either a clogged filter or a defective bearing.
It is necessary to clean the filter and check the operation again, also check the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that the usual cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the draft without filters does not give the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from carbon deposits using zero sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage in the outlet, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum in the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again, with the help of the tester, we make sure that the button is working properly.
If all the elements have been called by the tester and the voltage comes to the engine brushes without problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have to repair the engine expensively or simply replace it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.

If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on then it is quite possible that the protective thermostat on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

The speed of the vacuum cleaner motor is not regulated.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is the breakdown of the triac, in which the voltage through it is not regulated but freely passes through it without any control. It is possible that this element fails, and it is possible that contact is lost on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing down on the speed regulator knob, you can make sure whether the regulator itself is in good working order or the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider does not contact its site.

The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm. In case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume that the engine is malfunctioning, but most likely the brushes.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord is not tightened when the button is pressed or is constantly tightened during operation - malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, is weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, removing the drum, we wind up or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.

As a rule, it is not complicated and is quite standard in most models.

Tell me, pliz, how to open the engine (its number is VMC420E5) in the photo.
Problem: the motor shaft does not rotate, I sin on the front (the impeller has a bearing).
The impeller casing is rolled up and it is not clear what it is held on (rivets?), How to remove it?
I can post a photo (macro) of the desired places.
Replacing the engine is expensive

(more than 2000 rubles); I think to try to start the repair on my own

It is so incomprehensible WHERE (in what place?) And HOW is it seamed (or rather, compressed?)

Has no one tried to disassemble such engines?
Bottom photo: It is not clear why these “rivets (?)” (Symmetrically - two more), can they be cut off ?; Here, by the way, and the engine model fit in.
Top picture: This is just a bent edge of the impeller casing, IMHO, to increase the rigidity of the casing and it is pressed (?) With the engine casing (in the lower picture); if so, the question of reassembly arises.

2 Sergei, already decided to do so, tk. found a workshop where they promised to bring the engine for 800-900r. (this is acceptable for me, it's not 2000r., as they said in another)
But I will try to reanimate the broken one, an attempt is not torture, as they say.

2 -kolo-, the impeller is without a nut, and rivets can be cut off with a dremel and riveted back, I'll take it apart - I'll look.

I understand that several years have passed, but I want to share my experience in disassembling the VMC400E5 engine.

Once they were vacuuming something with an LG vacuum cleaner, and a bearing under the impeller jammed on the engine. After reading the forums, I also decided to try to repair the engine on my own.

Result: there were problems when removing the impeller, and I decided not to suffer with repairs, but my experience could be useful to others.

It is not sealed in any way, and is removed with slight blows of a hammer. It is necessary to tap the engine around the entire circumference of the casing. From about the second time, the casing will fly off.

2. Drill out 4 rivets that hold the bearing plate. I used a screwdriver. The RPM should be medium, because if the RPM is too high, the drill can catch on the metal, and you will get a strong blow to the hand. At first I took the smallest drill, and gradually brought the diameter to 5.5.

3. To separate the bearing plate from the motor housing, I placed a scalpel between the housing and the plate and gently tapped with a hammer. A small gap should form.

4. To knock out the rotor together with the impeller from the housing, you need to take some kind of punch, put it on the rotor from the side of the collector, and knock on it with a hammer, holding the engine housing. You can do this with someone else. On hit from the tenth, he will fly out.

5. But the impeller is more complicated. It is riveted. I drilled the rotor for a long time with a thick drill. Here's what happened:

And how to put it together now?
Well, 4 rivets can be replaced with screws. Perhaps they will allow air to pass through, but such small holes are unlikely to affect the operation of the vacuum cleaner.
The impeller is more complicated. You can drill a hole in the rotor, cut a thread, and screw the impeller with a screw, but this must be done exactly in the center so as not to shift the center of gravity. The problem is that I drilled the hole inaccurately and already shifted the center of gravity. Let's say I assemble it, and then how can I balance the rotor to avoid vibrations and premature bearing wear?

Video (click to play).

Verdict: engine repair is more expensive than buying a new one.

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