In detail: pzhd 15 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Liquid heater 15.8106.000-01 and its modifications. Repair instructions
1 Burner repair. Replacing the electric motor
1. Disconnect the high-voltage wires 9 from the high-voltage source 6
2. Unscrew the screw 5 securing the cover 18.
3. Remove the cover from the burner body 20
4. Disconnect the high voltage supply and motor terminals from the wire harness.
5. Unscrew the screw 11 securing the electric motor with the plate
7. Remove the coupling half 16 from the motor shaft.
8. Remove plate 13 from electric motor 10 by unscrewing screw 15 with washer 14.
9. Replace the faulty electric motor with a good one.
10. Reassemble from the 8th to the 1st point.
1-control unit; 2-plate; 3-tie; 4-washer according to OST 37.001.115-75; 5-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 6-high voltage source; 7-screw in accordance with GOST 1144-80; 8-seal; 9-wire PVV-HL in accordance with GOST 14867-79-DO-electric motor; 11-screw according to OST 37.001.129-81; 12-washer according to OST 37.001.115-75; 13-plate; 14-washer according to OST 37.001.115-75; 15-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 16-half-coupling: 17-label: 18-casing: 19-screw in accordance with GOST 1144-80: 20-branch pipe:
2 Disassembly of the product for defect detection
1. Place the heater on the table.
2. Unscrew the nut 13, remove the casing 14 from the stud 12.
3. Disconnect the harness connectors from the thermal fuse 15 and the two temperature sensors 17 and 19.
4. Unscrew the screw 11 and remove the clamp 10 with the wiring harness
5. Bend the end of the cotter pin 7 and remove the cotter pin from the burner body.
6. Unscrew the two nuts 2 securing the burner with the heat exchanger.
7. Disconnect the burner from the heat exchanger.
 |
Video (click to play). |
8. Place the burner on the table.
9. Inspect the burner, heat exchanger 6 and combustion chamber 1 for defects.
1-Combustion chamber; 2-nut according to OST 37.001,124-75; 3-washer; 4-bolt; 5-staff; 6-heat exchanger; 7-pin according to OST 37,001.171-81; 8-collar; 9-plate; 10-tie; 11-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 12-pin; 13-nut; 14-casing; 15-thermal fuse; 16-fitting; 17-temperature sensor; 18-bracket; 19-temperature sensor.
3 Adjusting the impeller clearance
1. Disconnect the high-voltage wires 9 from the high-voltage source 6.
2. Unscrew the screw 5 securing the cover 18.
3. Remove the shroud from the burner housing.
4. Disconnect the high voltage supply and motor terminals from the wire harness.
5. Unscrew the screw 11 securing the electric motor with the plate.
7. Remove the coupling half 16 from the motor shaft.
8. Unscrew the four screws 1 with washers 2 securing the fan casing 3.
9. Check the ease of rotation of the impeller 4 by turning it by the half-coupling 16.
10. Remove the fan housing 3 from the burner housing 7.
11. Check clearance 0.2 = 0.05.
12. Adjust the gap if it decreases, for which it is necessary to unscrew the four screws 8 with washers 10 securing the cover 12.
13. Remove the cover from the burner housing.
14. Adjust the clearance 0.2 = 0.05 by changing the tightening torque of the nut 13.
15. Assemble the burner in reverse order to disassembly.
1-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 2-shaiba according to OST 37.001.115-75; 3-fan case; 4-impeller; 5-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 6-high voltage source; 7-burner body; 8-screw according to OST 37.001.129-81; 9-wire PVV-HL in accordance with GOST 14867-79; 10-washer according to OST 37.001.115-75; 11-screw according to OST 37.001.127-81; 12-cover; 13-nut; 16-half-coupling; 18-casing.
4 Replacing the nozzle. Setting the gap of the electrodes
1. Unfasten retaining ring 1 and remove flame indicator 2 from electrodes 3.
2. Unscrew the nozzle 4, screw a suitable one into the nozzle holder 5
3. Assemble flame indicator 2 onto electrodes 3.
4. Secure flame detector 2 with retaining ring 1.
5. Place the template 6 on the nozzle holder 5 and check the position of the electrodes; if necessary, align the electrodes according to the sketch.
6. Check the connection and routing of the bundle of wires in the cover.
7. Correct the seals in the burner housing.
5 Replacing the casing or high-voltage source
1. Unscrew the four screws 1 with washers 2 securing the cover 4.
2. Disconnect the high-voltage wires 5 from the high-voltage source 6.
3. Remove the cover 4 from the burner body 7.
4.Disconnect the motor and the high voltage source wires 8 from the wiring harness,
5. Remove the high-voltage source by unscrewing four screws 9,
6. If the casing 4 is broken, then remove the branch pipe with the damper 10 from it by unscrewing the four screws 11.
7. Assemble a suitable casing 4 with a branch pipe 10 with a high-voltage voltage source 6, screwing in screws 9 and 11.
8. Install the assembled casing onto the burner body by repeating steps 1, 2, 3, 4 in reverse order to disassembly.
6 Replacing the solenoid valve
1. Disconnect the harness plugs from the flame indicator 1, solenoid valve 2, electric heater 3.
2 Remove the retaining ring 4 from the flame indicator 1.
3. Remove the flame indicator.
4. Unscrew the defective solenoid valve,
5. Get a suitable solenoid valve,
6. Put a rubber O-ring 5 on the threaded part of the electromagnet.
7. Screw the solenoid valve into the nozzle holder 6.
8. Connect the wire harness to the solenoid valve, flame detector, electric heater.
9. Place the wires of the wire harness in the cover.
10. Assemble the flame indicator on the electrodes 7, the nozzle 8 and secure with the retaining ring 4.
11. Set the gap on the electrodes using a template.
1. Take the heater and place it on the table.
2. Unscrew nut 1, remove cover 2 from stud 3.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness plugs 4 from the temperature sensors.
4. Unscrew the screw 5 and remove the clamp 6 with the wiring harness.
5. Bend the end of the cotter pin 7 and remove the cotter pin from the burner body.
6. Unscrew the two nuts 8 securing the burner with the heat exchanger.
7. Disconnect burner 9 from heat exchanger 10.
8. Remove the combustion chamber 11 from the heat exchanger,
9. Take a suitable heat exchanger and insert the combustion chamber. 10. Assemble the burner with the heat exchanger in reverse order.
1. Place the burner on the table.
2. Disconnect the harness plug 3 from the flame indicator 4, plug 5 from the solenoid valve 6, plug 7 from the electric heater 8.
3. Remove the wire harness from the hole in the burner housing.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness from the casing by unscrewing screw 1 and removing clamp 2.
5. Remove the cover by unscrewing the remaining three fastening screws.
6. Disconnect the plug of the wire harness 9 from the high-voltage source, plug 11 from the electric motor 12,
7. Assemble a good quality wire harness with the burner in reverse order.
Profile
Group: Pros
Posts: 41
User #: 15415
On the forum since: 11/8/2009
Has warnings:
(0%) 
Profile
Group: Asset
Posts: 7
User #: 25323
On the forum since: 01/14/2013
Has warnings:
(0%)
Profile
Group: Pros
Posts: 41
User #: 15415
On the forum since: 11/8/2009
Has warnings:
(0%)
Profile
Group: Old people
Posts: 669
User #: 17132
On the forum since: 2.05.2010
Has warnings:
(0%)
Error "No ignition". While I was writing, the thought came to me, it is easier to remove the coil and lengthen the wires to check the spark and spray. Than to try to deceive the control unit, picking up something instead of the coil.
Autonomous engine heaters Pramotronic 15.8106-15 designed to warm up a cold engine before starting. This is achieved by heating the coolant pumped through the preheater heat exchanger. Heaters Pramotronic are highly reliable. The design feature of the models 15.8106 is the absence of a glow plug - an element that works in extreme conditions. Fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber by a high pressure pump through a nozzle.
The basis Pramotronic 15.8106-15 taken German autonomous engine heater Webasto DBW 2010... In terms of overall dimensions and technical characteristics, they are completely interchangeable.
Control heater 15.8106-15 carried out using a control panel installed in the car cab. In addition, the console has the ability to display error codes in case of malfunctions.
Your speeches are strange.it is indirectly clear that we are talking about some of the clones of an ancient imported heater, under the code "15.8106", probably installed on Kamaz. further guesses - ended.
So that we do not suffer from the unknown, please - see the Rules.
P.S: Sobssno problem, usually the opposite - “it - does not turn on. ”Due to various malfunctions, therefore, it can be assumed that your device, accordingly, is in good working order.
It remains to clarify what and where. incorrectly connected.
This is just a great device, especially for sellers.
However, I see that you have not mastered to read the rules.
Since your information about the problem, "research" and the work done, in your words - is limited to "sticking out" and "poking" the power connector (aka control), then you are probably really mistaken. somewhere.
If you do not want to read, explain and do something - your right, I suppose the topic can be closed?
Well . no need for ridicule, sometimes - everything is much sadder.
Advertising often comes across. “Yes - guano, but ours, domestic. "
- I was here, asked to order to buy spare parts for some domestic equipment.
So, representatives of a plant close to the topic, although not in connection with this device, said literally like this: “You, say thank you, that at least we produce such spare parts. ”(Among“ such ”there were also heaters).
Mlyn, how much can be considered "merit" - crooked copies of devices, machines, goods "20 years old" or collect too - from a Chinese "semi-finished product"?
For some reason, I consider this "production" - the destruction of resources.
“Yes - guano, but ours, domestic. "
This is the essence of the Lord! That we have got all sorts of grief of manufacturers in Russi, who have spawned all kinds of fakes immeasurably, calling them "analogues" of well-known European firms, and those do not closely correspond to them. Not only do they don’t want to work with novya, but also try to find spare parts for them. For example, I do not live and work in the city, and even in the nearest town such spare parts are not sold. And go to the neighboring region. center, it is not always good, even for a reputable company, and to deal with just such single requests. This is what only the drivers want, but not the bosses. But the carriers are also timid on local routes, and they themselves do not go to the authorities to ask. And how can one study so many “ingenious inventions” if we all know that in a year or two this crap will no longer be produced, but there will be completely different “devices”. Everything is done not so that we know how to repair them, but that we often buy them. And if we also add to these working conditions, that in order for the supplier to buy me a soldering iron, I had to follow the boss for three months, forgive me for such whining, sometimes “enthusiasm” is sometimes not enough. And with one control light, not much succeeds.
Liquid heater 15.8106-15 completed with a new control system that is not interchangeable with previous versions. Discrete temperature sensors are replaced with analog ones. The control unit is installed on the heater body and can only be dismantled in a service center to maintain warranty obligations during the warranty period.
Liquid heater can be started both from the control panel 27.3854 (PU) or from the switch button, depending on the configuration. The electrical schematic diagram is shown in the figure Electrical schematic diagram for heaters 15.8106-15.
When the "start" button is pressed or when the switch is turned on, the control unit performs automatic diagnostics of the health of all electrical components (check for open circuit, polarity reversal, short circuit and the value of the vehicle's on-board voltage). In case of detecting inconsistencies in electrical components, when the voltage limits of the on-board network of the vehicle (ATC) are exceeded, the heater will not start, and a red LED on the front panel of the control panel will blink at regular intervals with a sound in accordance with table 3 corresponding malfunction.
According to the signal from the analog temperature sensor VK1, the BU monitors the temperature of the vehicle coolant both when the heater is started and when it is operating.
If during the check all electrical components are in good working order, the heater goes into start mode.
At a coolant temperature of 0 ° C and below, the electric fuel heater EK1 is automatically turned on for 90 seconds. When the coolant temperature is above 0 ° C, the electric heater does not turn on, and the heater goes into blowdown mode. The operating time of the electric fuel heater does not change and is provided by the control unit.
After the operating time of the electric fuel heater has expired, the BU smoothly applies voltage to the terminals of the burner motor M2, and the terminals of the electric pump Ml. The heater performs the blowdown mode for 20s.
After the purge time has elapsed, the control unit simultaneously supplies voltage to the terminals of the high-voltage voltage source GB1 and the terminals of the Y1 electromagnet. Fuel from the high pressure pump goes to the injector. A spark appears between electrodes E1 and E2, the fuel ignites.
In case of stable combustion, the high-voltage source GB1 is switched off by the signal of the BL1 flame indicator. The heater is operating in preheating mode. The control unit can supply voltage to the terminals of the high-voltage voltage source for 10 s. with uncertain ignition.
Depending on the voltage of the vehicle's on-board network, the heater provides the following temperature conditions:
This mode of operation of the heater allows ensuring the thermal balance of the operating vehicle engine in conditions of extremely low ambient temperatures while driving.
If all electrical components are in good working order, the heater will operate cyclically until it is turned off by the driver (operator) by pressing the button on the control panel or when the switch is turned off.
The heater will not start or will turn off automatically if:
- reducing the voltage of the on-board network of the automatic telephone exchange to 19V. When the voltage drops during the operation of the pre-heater, it will be switched off and the final blowdown mode will be performed for 150 s. The driver will be informed by light flashes of a red LED with sound accompaniment in accordance with Table 3;
- an increase in the voltage of the on-board network of the automatic telephone exchange above 30V;
- the occurrence of a malfunction of any of the electrical components, the driver will be informed by light flashes of a red LED with sound in accordance with Table 3... If the solenoid valve is defective, check the condition of the thermal fuse F1;
- the onset of the emergency operation of the heater.
Heater emergency modes occur if the coolant temperature exceeds 103 C, which is possible in the event of a temperature sensor VK1 failure, a decrease in the performance of the Ml electric pump and in the event of an air lock in the heat exchanger (there is not enough coolant in the ATC system), the contacts of the thermal fuse F1 will open. This switches off electromagnet Y1 and stops burning. In this case, it is necessary to determine and eliminate the cause of the defect, and only after removing the thermal fuse, close the contacts by pressing the button on the thermal fuse body. Pressing force of the button should not exceed 20N.
If during start-up of the pre-heater within 10 s, with the high-voltage source and solenoid valve turned on, ignition does not occur, the pre-heater goes into blowdown mode, within 150 s, and reapplies voltage to the high-voltage source and the electromagnet. If the ignition does not occur when the ignition is restarted, the pre-heater switches to the final blowdown mode after which it turns off with a fault indication.
If, during the operation of the pre-heater, a flame breakdown occurs (possibly when the fuel system of the pre-heater is supplied), the BU automatically supplies voltage to the high-voltage voltage source GB1 until a signal is received from the flame indicator YOU, but no more than 10 s. In the absence of flame, the pre-heater goes into the final blowdown mode and a fault indication on the control panel.
1. On the control panel the buttons Pr1 (pos. 2) and Pr2 (pos. 3) are not illuminated (see Fig. 2).
Check the supply voltage (Unom = 24 V) in the XS3 vehicle block (see Fig. 1).
- Check for open circuit and, if necessary, replace the 15 A fuse in the heater power harness. A blown fuse can occur in the event of a short circuit in the vehicle electrical system.
- Check the power supply circuit for an open and the condition of the contacts in the harness connectors connecting the control panel (A 3) and the heater (A 2).
If the above elements are in good condition, replace the control unit.
2. All possible malfunctions that may arise during the operation of the pre-heater are displayed in the form of fault codes on the control panel (see table 3).
Each malfunction code is displayed in the form of repeated blinks and pauses of the LED pos. 4 or pos. 5 (see Fig. 2) (red) and is accompanied by a sound signal.
Attention: The sound signal at this time can be turned off by pressing and holding the button of the corresponding program for 2 ÷ 3 seconds.
It should heat up to a certain temperature, then purge and only the pump drives the antifreeze. when it cools down - start again.
anton-640, I think it should, otherwise the antifreeze will boil.
Since novya worked like that.
Added after 13 minutes 42 seconds:
CALIPSO, KAMAZIST81 wrote:
PJD cannot start, gives errors flame failure and open circuit of the temperature sensor.
errors immediately without attempting to launch or what?
I didn’t look so bad, I tried to eat but the salara didn’t light up.
Well, I have the same. “The heater operates in the warming up mode until the coolant temperature reaches 80C. When the set temperature is reached, the control unit removes the voltage from the terminals of the Y1 solenoid, stops the fuel supply and combustion. The heater goes into blowdown mode within 150 s. After the purge mode expires, the control unit removes voltage from the burner motor terminals. The electric pump continues to run to ensure circulation. ” And where does he work here all the time? Further: “When the coolant temperature drops below 48C, the control unit diagnoses the health of electrical components and the voltage of the vehicle's on-board network. In the absence of malfunctions, the pre-heater performs the purge, ignition and warm-up mode. "Are we talking about the same thing?
anton-640, you can’t tell me how to compose messages like this, otherwise I’ll put it all together, I’m writing from the phone.
Admin do not swear that you do not darken the question.
Added after 6 minutes 18 seconds:
CALIPSO, I did not hear the clicks, can you hear the clicks with the noise of the PJD?
How to decipher what kind of wine?
Added after 2 minutes 32 seconds:
Hurray it turned out here I am ancient I mean messages.
Added after 8 minutes 55 seconds:
Friends also have the same nonsense with pzh15 that it does not start again after warming up the engine, the same error, lack of ignition, and also after two years of using flawless work. Unih disease or something.
Who can find something worthwhile on the topic.
Scotch is better than God - no need to pray, but it always helps!
just got such a new one for free today
maybe you looked at the wrong one, he is small on the military 2 times more
Can I have a photo? to make everything clear
on page 15 post425 one to one, the photo does not work out to insert something
and in the cockpit you set the temperature and he keeps it
I meant that it turned out tall, because of the air blower, although not so long
Can we just have the diesel fuel unburned inside? How did you work before? or didn't work at all?
And from which boiler is this pump? PZhD-30 antifreeze will warm up in any case. But, the circulation is just frantic - 4500 l / h = 1.25 l / sec. ...
141 and 143.30 and 35kW respectively. mainly used on buses, which is not surprising
Hello everyone! As you understand, the preference is given to PZhD-12B? Maybe someone knows in Arkhangelsk where you can buy it?
hello, I need advice, I have such a boiler - it says pzhd 30. but as I understand it, it is not complete.
tell me what else is missing ??
tell me the problems with the boiler 15.8106: it starts up for 5 seconds and it goes out two attempts, then it goes into an error (no ignition). I put a new used one. immediately goes into error (the magnetic valve is faulty) tell me who what.
hello, I need advice, I have such a boiler - it says pzhd 30. but as I understand it, it is not complete.
tell me what else is missing ??There is not enough pump with electric motor, fan, liquid and fuel pumps. Here's one:
There is still not enough coil for ignition, it is also the TK-107 switch:
Well, wires, hoses, air ducts and a remote control. Instead of a remote control, you can simply a button for a candle and a toggle switch for a pump-fan.
And the boiler itself is wonderful. No “brains” and similar glucose-like pribluds. The only thing that sometimes fools your head. so this is a fuel atomizer. So immediately buy a PZD-30 repair kit or just the sprayer itself.
Yes, it is also useful to direct the exhaust pipe to the engine sump. As previously done at 4310.
Edited by shatun61 (2014-01-27 10:38:32)
on pzh 15 on the fuel pump to add fuel, the bolt must be tightened or vice versa ??
These are my oil heating, but on the pallet you need 2 such plates if the oil is summer, I checked the oil at minus 33 days.
Edited by leonid 1980 (2014-01-27 16:41:14)
this kind of antifreeze heats, but I changed the tenu, put it on 3 square meters, as my own was on 1.5 square meters, very weak. everything works together with heating plates.
What does it mean starts in 5 seconds? first blowing 20 seconds, then firing up, is that so? Or is there no ignition at all? is the new block a new one at all, or is it just a different one?
on pzh 15 on the fuel pump to add fuel, the bolt must be tightened or vice versa ??
Did the boiler work before that? if yes, then you should not go there. we need to decide on the launch
I want to put on the cooling heating too. liquids and oils, since the car is parked in the yard, do you have a photo or link of these heaters?
The heater is called ALLIANCE or NORTH, it costs 3 t rubles in the store, the instruction and the front comes with it, for each car there is a different front and the power of the ten her day and time is on and time off and everything is okay she turns on and off herself according to a given program. In that winter, we were instructed not only on car niches, but also on imports, everyone is satisfied. Installation takes about an hour RV.
everything is correct 20 seconds purge then ignition. it starts up for a few seconds, then it goes out and so several attempts (this is with the old used one) and with a new one (completely new) goes straight into an error. and with the old used it happens it starts working for several minutes then it is cut down without purging, and the water pump continues to work
The Road Warrior88
What specific errors does it give?The Road Warrior88
Is the fuel filter worth it?Samsung SH24ZS6AX, Freezes up the suction and liquid valves
Good day colleagues. Tortured with one air conditioner. Samsung brand SH24ZS6AX. Freezes over.Or use the forum search:
the fact is that this heater does not have a control panel, only a light bulb and a start button for the electronics (that is, the supply of 24 volts, and the processor does everything itself
Added after 10 minutes
the link is not it,... Directly say, is the processor powered by 24?
just above and to the left of the negative wire - a penny with a via is torn off.
to the left of the negative wire - the element seems to be also torn off. two more elements below the negative wire but of the same standard size are also “cold soldered”.
I would also like to see the other sidemoonboards.Added after 2 minutes
Of course, you can't make out the markings there?yes, the markings cannot be disassembled, strong glass unguided siotrel, no, it is not visible, the marking, the varnish interferes, does not dissolve in anything (the diode then I soldered, I checked where the soldering was, then I also re-soldered the board, the board was oxidized, the tracks rotted, that is, it was soldered like it was at the factory scheme,
Added after 8 minutes
question ? Why does the 24v go there? from a white wire through a zener diode, resistance, I don't understand,between 14 and 28 legs of the processor what is the voltage? (far left and far right if you look at the photo as it is located on the forum.)
Perhaps this is a key cascade with overlap blocking, if this is really a power supply.
Draw a diagram for the board of this section, we will take a look. You yourself signed the wire as from a button, in theory, red is power. Decide.
in? just like a cascade from a reversal, (I know that the red wire has always been in my practice +, so there is a thick red wire, this is plus 24, a small red one next to a thick one, plus they are soldered together, (in the photo everything is correctly drawn (
Added after 26 minutes
Bzx 86c 36 looks like a transparent Zener diode, do not know what to replace?In conditions where the outside temperatures are low, problems often arise for all trucks. But it is quite easy to solve the problem, the revision of KAMAZ PZhD 15.8106 ensures uninterrupted operation of the engine even in the harsh conditions of the northern regions of our country. You can order such a heater system in our store, you will be pleasantly surprised by the price of the products. The modern installation PZhD 15.8106 meets all international standards and provides easy engine start at subzero temperatures, moreover, the device is practical during operation, which is important.
Attention! By visiting this site, you confirm your consent to the collection of method data.
Heater control unit BUP-12 (74.3763-01), BUP1-24 (74.3763) ASLN.468365.001 RE
This operating manual (OM) is intended to ensure the correct operation of the heater control units (hereinafter referred to as products), given in Table 58, during their operation as part of liquid diesel heaters (hereinafter heaters)
1 Product description and operation
The products are designed to control liquid diesel heaters of types 15.8106, 141.8106, 143.8106, 151.8106, PZhD12B.
According to the operating conditions, the product belongs to category “2” products in accordance with GOST 15150-69 and is manufactured for operation in temperate and cold climates at an ambient temperature of –50 to + 60 ° С.
The products are designed to work together with the timer-thermostat TTP 1-12, TPP1-24, TTP 12, TTP24-01M, 6732.3761, 6712.3701, 46.3761. The product is protected against short circuits in external circuits.2 Specifications
The nominal value and operating range of the supply voltage are shown in Table 58.Table 58
Product version ____ Rated supply voltage, V ______ Operating voltage range, V
____ BUP1-12 _________________________ 12 ______________________________ from 10.5 to 15
____ BUP-24 __________________________ 24 _______________________________ from 19 to 303 Intended use
Overall dimensions of the product are 37x85x128 mm.
Installation of the product on the body of the heater 15.8106 and similar is shown in Fig. 314The connection of products to the heater must be made in accordance with Table 60
During operation, the product is not serviceable and not repairable under the consumer's conditions.
4 Scope of delivery
The product delivery set includes:
- heater control unit 1 pc
- operation manual 1 copy
- label 1 piece5 Transport and storage
Products should be transported packed in individual and group packaging and shipping containers.
Transportation of products should be carried out by means of transport that ensure the protection of products and packaging from mechanical stress and precipitation in accordance with:
- "Regulations for the carriage of goods by the Ministry of Railways", 1977;
- "General rules for the carriage of goods by road", 1971;
- "Rules for the carriage of goods" MRF, 1978;
- "General special rules for the carriage of goods", Marine Fleet, 1995.
Products should be stored in warehouses at temperatures from plus 5 ° C to plus 30 ° C at a relative humidity of no more than 85% in the absence of acid vapors, alkalis and other aggressive impurities in the air.
The stacking height of multiple packs should not exceed three rows.Video (click to play). 6 Manufacturer's Warranties
The manufacturer guarantees that the products comply with the requirements of GOST 3940-84 and technical specifications TU 4573-004-17603581 (ASLN.468365.001TU), subject to the operating rules. The guaranteed shelf life is 3 years from the date of manufacture.
The warranty period is 2 years within the warranty storage period.
In case of violation of the safety of the seals on the product, claims to the quality of work are not accepted and warranty repairs are not made.
Warranties do not apply to products that fail due to the fault of the consumer due to improper use.
Repair and exchange of products during the warranty period is carried out in accordance with the Law of the Russian Federation "On protection
