Clutch slave cylinder vaz 2107 DIY repair

In detail: the vaz 2107 clutch slave cylinder DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

No one wants to experience discomfort while driving, especially if it is associated with problems in the field of driving. Owners of domestic "classics" have to devote more time and effort to the condition of their car, because they are used to doing everything with their own hands. We can say with full confidence if the car owner has already mastered the process camber adjustment , then he can repair the hydraulic drive of the transmission clutch, it is enough to study the technology.

In order for the replacement of the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder to be justified, it is good to know its purpose and the first signs of a malfunction. The torque transmission system on classic VAZ models is driven by a hydraulic drive, the main task of which is to transfer forces when the clutch control pedal is pressed.

In turn, the hydraulic drive consists of two cylinders: the main one and the working one. When acting on the pedal, pressure is created in the HZ, as a result of which the brake fluid is pumped through the valve into the working cylinder (RC). The latter drives the rod, which squeezes the fork, thereby making the choice of gears.

Traditionally, the RC is located on the gearbox housing and is secured with two bolts, so it is possible to get to it only while under the bottom of the car. The operation of both cylinders depends on the presence of brake fluid, so you need to monitor its level, especially since this is easy to do - the container is in the engine compartment.

In most cases, clutch control problems are associated with a loss of tightness when the pedal loses its elasticity when depressed. However, this fact is still half the trouble, but the inability to turn on the transmission is already serious.

Video (click to play).

If we compose signs indicating the need to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 car, we get a list:

A drop in the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir, which indicates a loss of tightness of the hose or RC. Breakage is also identified by stains under the machine.
Periodic "dips" of the pedal or its soft stroke indicate that air has entered the system. Breakage may be the result of a worn cuff or cracks in the housing of the working cylinder.
A gradual loss of pedal stiffness and difficult gear shifting indicate a breakdown of the RC spring. In this case, the liquid level remains unchanged, and the pedal adjustment does not give results.

The flow of liquid from the master cylinder signals with similar signs, therefore, during inspection, you need to pay attention to its condition.

To work, you need the following set of tools:

Pliers.
Open-end wrench "17".
Head "13".

It is more comfortable to carry out the repair process on an inspection pit or overpass. If this is not possible, the front of the machine must be lifted with a jack and installed on supports, having previously fixed the rear wheels with shoes. Further work is performed on the following transitions:

Loosen the nut of the hose tip in the RC plug with a “17” open-end wrench.
Disconnect the retraction spring using pliers.
Bend and remove the cotter pin at the end of the pusher with pliers.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the gearbox housing.
Disconnect the bolted bracket.

After removing the pusher from the plug, take the RC in your hand and with a “17” wrench completely unscrew the tip nut and remove the hose.
Replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 car, and immediately tighten the hose tip to avoid loss of brake fluid.
Secure the new part in reverse order.

A certain proportion of motorists prefer to drain the old brake fluid before the operation, believing that this will allow them to get rid of the dirt in the system. Whatever it was, but pumping and clutch adjustment have to do in any case.

For the quality of the transmission, it is important that there is no air in the system, for which pumping is done. The procedure is the same as bleeding the brakes. To do the job you need an assistant:

Fill the reservoir on the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Slide a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter onto the fitting. Lower the other end of the hose into a container with a certain amount of liquid.

Ask the assistant to press the pedal 5-6 times and fix it in the pressed position.
Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fitting half a turn and release air bubbles, then screw the fitting and repeat the procedure until the air in the liquid completely disappears.

During the production of work, it is important to monitor the liquid level in the tank and replenish it in a timely manner.

In certain cases, motorists prefer to independently purchase not only repair kit couplings, but also spare parts for cylinder restoration on our own. This option allows you to save some amount if you follow the following points:

Clamp the part in a vice and unscrew the plug in the back.
Remove the rubber cap.
Remove the retaining ring from the plug side.
Extract the internal elements of the node.
Unscrew the bleed nipple with a 10 key.

In order to replace a repaired clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 with high quality, you need:

Inspect the condition of the spring and replace if necessary.
Replace all rubber seals.
Examine the assembly mirror.
Clean the fitting.

Before assembly, all parts should be lubricated with brake fluid. Do not use gasoline or diesel fuel, because the rubber will lose its quality. Change the gasket under the plug only if there are leaks. Having assembled and installed the unit, we finish the process of pumping the system.

If when you press the pedal the clutch does not disengage (“leads”), and the pedal itself is soft, you should pay attention to the repair or adjustment of the clutch drive. To do this, it is necessary to remove and repair (or replace) the master and slave cylinders of the clutch hydraulic drive and bleed them.

"Seven" has a dry single-plate clutch. The clutch master cylinder is located directly under the pedal, when pressed, the pusher moves, acting on the master cylinder piston, creating pressure. The brake fluid, which is filled with the hydraulic drive, is squeezed out and flows into the slave cylinder.

The piston of the slave cylinder is connected to the clutch fork by a pusher. When the pedal is pressed, the latter moves the fork, it displaces the release bearing and separates the support and pressure discs. As a result, the torque from the crankshaft flywheel is no longer transmitted to the gearbox and it becomes possible to change gear.

In the event of a malfunction of the clutch unit, when the pedal is depressed, the gearbox shaft continues to rotate and it becomes difficult or completely impossible to change gears. If the clutch is incorrectly adjusted, the discs can slip, which is accompanied by their accelerated wear.

You cannot continue to operate a car with a faulty clutch - both the clutch discs and the gearbox may be damaged. Therefore, at the first signs of a malfunction, you should start repairing and adjusting it.

To replace or adjust the VAZ 2107 clutch, you will need:

pliers;
thin screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
knife;
brake fluid;
container and hose for pumping;
syringe.

The easiest way to repair the VAZ 2107 clutch is to change the worn out cylinders (main and working). Their price is low, and the complexity of the operation is much lower than when carrying out repairs. Therefore, car owners often prefer to replace rather than repair clutches.

Let's start by replacing the master cylinder. The order of operations is as follows:

Drain the clutch reservoir by pouring it into another container. It is convenient to do this with a syringe.
Loosen the clamp and remove the hose from the master cylinder union.

[tip] Note: You can drain the liquid without using a syringe. To do this, you need to remove the hose from the tank to the cylinder connection and redirect it to a previously prepared container. [/ Tip]

Unscrew the union of the metal tube going from the master cylinder to the working cylinder and undock the tube.
Unscrew the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the bulkhead of the body with a 13 key or a head with an extension and remove the master cylinder.

[tip] Note: If the threads are corroded and the nuts will not loosen, pre-treat the studs with WD-40 fluid. Otherwise, if you use excessive force, you can roll the pins, which will cause a lot of difficulties. [/ Tip]

The new clutch master cylinder can now be installed. Before that, it is worth checking the condition of the flexible hose of the clutch reservoir. If it is cracked at the end, it must be slightly trimmed or replaced with a new one.

When installing a new cylinder, it is necessary to make sure that the clutch pedal actuator rod enters the inside of the cylinder. For convenience, you can ask your partner to put a little pressure on the clutch pedal and hold it. Then follows:

Place the master cylinder on the studs and tighten the nuts.
Connect and tighten the metal pipe union.
Put on the tube from the clutch reservoir and tighten the clamp.
Fill the reservoir with brake fluid, referring to the level marks.

The clutch master cylinder has been replaced.

Removal of the working cylinder should be carried out from the inspection hole or using a lift. The order of operations is as follows:

Remove the return spring from the slave cylinder bracket.
Unscrew the union of the tube from the master cylinder. To prevent the brake fluid from leaking out, you can put on the cap removed from the cylinder bleed fitting, or direct it into a container prepared in advance.
Unscrew the two bolts connecting the slave cylinder to the gearbox and remove them together with the plate.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder.

[tip] Note: Before installing a new clutch slave cylinder, adjust the adjusting nuts to approximately the same level as they were on the old cylinder. If you do this operation, adjusting the VAZ 2107 clutch will be much easier. [/ Tip]

The new slave cylinder is installed in the reverse order of removal of the old one.

Put a hose on the connection of the working cylinder and immerse its end in the prepared container for brake fluid.

Squeeze out the clutch.

Unscrew the union on the slave cylinder 1 turn.

Wait until air bubbles stop coming out and tighten the union.

Repeat the operation until no more air comes out of the fitting. At the same time, monitor the fluid level in the clutch reservoir.

Tighten the union and put on the cap.

There are several ways to bleed the clutch on the VAZ 2107, here is a video about the most popular

In general, we realized that both cylinders must constantly have brake fluid, but why is it needed some of you will ask? The thing is that brake fluid is not compressible, and therefore it is used both in the brake system and in the clutch drive, in general, let's get back closer to the topic.

Note!
To replace the clutch slave cylinder with a new one, you will need to stock up on: A basic set of wrenches, as well as pliers, and you may also need a new brake fluid of about 1, 2 liters!

Summary:

Where is the clutch slave cylinder located?
It is located next to the box, or to be more precise, it is fixed with two bolts on the box clutch housing itself, so you can only see it unhindered if you are under the bottom of the car, or if you look deep into the engine compartment, for a more detailed location, see the photo below, it is indicated by an arrow:

When should you change the clutch slave cylinder?
As we already understood, there is brake fluid inside the slave cylinder, due to which the clutch is turned off in the car, but it happens that over time this cylinder becomes unusable and cracks begin to appear in its body, and thus the liquid in it starts to come out little by little to be, it is very easy to understand if you visually look at it, and you can also understand it without looking at it at all, but how to do it you ask?

The thing is that if the cylinder becomes unusable and brake fluid starts to flow out of it, then the first thing that happens to the clutch pedal is that it will become very easy to press, that is, the system will not be sealed, so to speak, but if the system is not is sealed, then the clutch will practically not work, that is, you press the pedal, it is pressed very easily and the clutch does not turn on at the same time, this is perhaps one of the most common problems that happens when the clutch slave cylinder fails.

Note!
But do not forget that a slight engagement of the clutch pedal can also be caused by other reasons, for example, a leaking clutch master cylinder, which in this case will also need to be replaced! (For information on how to replace the master cylinder and find out at what malfunctions it needs to be changed, see the article entitled: "Replacing the clutch master cylinder")

Withdrawal:
1) To remove, first you will need to stock up on a wrench and, using a wrench, loosen the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder.

Note!
Note that the tightening of this nut will only need to be loosened, and not completely unscrewed, and then disconnect the hose from the cylinder, this is not yet necessary to do, this is a little lower!

2) Then put the wrench aside, and then using pliers, pull back and then completely remove the recoil spring from the cylinder.

3) Next, without removing the pliers, bend and then remove the cotter pin from the hole located in the tip of the pusher of this cylinder.

Note!
The cotter pin is one of these parts that is very often lost, so put it in a prominent place so that later you can easily find it and install it back!

4) Then, using a wrench, unscrew the two bolts that secure the cylinder to the gearbox clutch housing.

5) Now detach the bracket from the cylinder, which was also bolted together with the cylinder itself and which serves to secure the recoil spring.

6) Then, grasping the working cylinder with your hand, carefully remove it while removing the pusher which is indicated by the arrow from the hole in the fork.

7) And then completely unscrew the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder, and then completely remove the cylinder from the car.

Note!
Before you start unscrewing this nut, prepare some kind of plug or container into which all the brake fluid from the hose of the clutch hydraulic drive will drain. Now that everything is ready, carefully unscrew the nut that secures the hose and thereby disconnect the hose from the cylinder and then drain all the used brake fluid from the hole in the hose, as well as from the hole of the working cylinder itself!

Better, of course, all the same, it will still drain all the fluid from the hose into a container and after installing a new cylinder, pour a completely new brake fluid into the clutch hydraulic drive, because when the fluid is drained, it will thereby flush the entire system from the dirt that is in it! (For information on how to pour brake fluid into the clutch reservoir, see the article titled: "Changing the fluid into the clutch")

Installation:
1) Installation of a new clutch cylinder is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
After installing the cylinder, be sure to bleed the clutch! (For how to bleed the clutch, see the article: "Bleeding the clutch at a VAZ")

Additional video clip:
In more detail on the process of replacing this cylinder, you can look at the video clip, which is posted just below:

Communities ›Club of Classics Lovers (and not only)› Blog ›Do-it-yourself replacement of the VAZ-2107 clutch slave cylinder

Today we will analyze how to replace a faulty clutch slave cylinder. They change it in the event of a brake fluid leakage and, as a result, gear shifting problems.

In our case, the brake fluid was periodically pushed outward, the rubber cap broke, dirt and moisture got under it - the clutch was not fully squeezed out, and jerks were observed when shifting.

To replace it, we need:
- Set of wrenches for 7 (8), 10,13,17,22
- Pliers
- Metal brush
- VD-shka or other "liquid key"
- New slave cylinder
- Copper O-ring D12
- Brake fluid
- Tube and container for bleeding the clutch

To begin with, remove the retractor spring and the cotter pin from the hole in the pusher, loosen the tightening of the hydraulic hose.We unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the clutch housing.

Remove the retractor spring bracket.

There is a working out on it, so we will replace it with a new one.

We take out the pusher from the hole of the clutch release fork and unscrew the cylinder from the hose, drain the brake fluid (the fluid from the reservoir can be previously pumped out with a syringe).

Now you need to move the adjusting nut and the lock nut from the pusher of the old cylinder to the pusher of the new one (or move the pusher itself). Pre-measure the distance from the tip of the pusher to the nut and set it in the same position.

We check the presence of grease under the cap.

Install the new cylinder in reverse order. We fasten the hydraulic hose with a new sealing washer.

We insert the pusher into the fork hole and fasten the cylinder to the clutch housing.

Then we pump the clutch.

We check the free play of the fork pusher - it should be 4-5 mm. To do this, we lean the ruler against the cylinder mounting bolt parallel to the pusher. Pressing the end of the fork first forward and then backward, we determine its free travel.

If necessary, adjust by changing the position of the adjusting nut.

We securely counter the nut, put the release spring and the cotter pin in place.
Now we check the operation of the clutch - it should grasp approximately in the middle of the full pedal travel, the gears should be engaged easily, without extraneous sounds.

If necessary, repeat the adjustment.

And again we are repairing the VAZ 2107

Clutch problems? Does it not fully engage, is the clutch pedal soft or does it fail altogether?
All this will tell us that the time has come to repair the clutch - the master and slave cylinders! How this is done and will be discussed in this article.
Here you will find: instructions for repairing a clutch on a VAZ car 2107, a useful video, tips and features of this type of work. Here you will find information on how to change cylinders, repair and bleed them.

Preparing for clutch repair
Replacing the clutch

Replacing the clutch master cylinder
Replacing the clutch slave cylinder

Clutch repair

Master cylinder
Slave cylinder

Bleeding the clutch on the VAZ 2107

What needs to be prepared in order to repair the clutch with your own hands:

A set of keys
Screwdriver (preferably thin)
Special pliers-pullers
WD-40 or similar rust remover
Knife
Brake fluid
Bleed hose
Capacity for pumping
Syringe

That, perhaps, is all that is needed.

Expanding pliers (circlip pliers)

Often, car owners prefer to simply replace clutch parts, since the price for them is low, and time can be significantly saved. Therefore, you can first consider the process of replacing clutch parts.

First you need to drain the clutch reservoir. This can be done with a syringe - select the liquid and pour into another container.
You can also remove the hose from the master cylinder union and insert it into the same container. Bend the clamp on the fitting slightly to make it easier to remove the hose.
As it is more convenient for you, do so.
After that, you need to unscrew the pipe union that fits the clutch slave cylinder.
Then spray the two studs with WD-40 or an equivalent, on which the clutch master cylinder is attached to the car body, so as not to break them by unscrewing the nuts.
Take a 13 key or a head with extensions (whichever is more convenient) and unscrew the two fastening nuts alternately.

Removing the nuts securing the main brake cylinder VAZ 2107

Ready! Removal completed.
Now let's install a new cylinder:

Advice! Before installing a new master cylinder, pay attention to the condition of the flexible hose of the clutch reservoir.
It often happens that it cracks at the end. There are two options - either replace the hose or cut it (if the length allows).

First, you need to get the drive rod from the clutch pedal into the hole of the new master cylinder. For convenience, ask a friend to slightly push the clutch pedal.
Then install the clutch master cylinder onto the mounting studs.
Tighten the fastening nuts with a 13 wrench or a head with extensions.
Using a 10 wrench, connect the pipeline from the clutch slave cylinder.
Put on the flexible hose of the clutch reservoir.
Fill the brake fluid reservoir up to the filler neck.

Clutch slave cylinder for VAZ 2107

Now we will change the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 car:

Advice! When loosening and tightening the bolts securing the slave cylinder, be careful not to strip the threads in the gearbox housing.

Remove the spring from the slave cylinder.
Next, you need to unscrew the tube that connects the main and working cylinders with a 10 key. Brake fluid will flow from it - put the cap on the end of the tube, which is located on the bleed nipple of the working cylinder.
Unscrew the two bolts securing the slave cylinder using a 13 key and remove them together with the plate.
Remove the slave cylinder.

They took it off.
Now we will install a new clutch slave cylinder on the VAZ 2107:

First, unscrew the adjusting nuts in about the same way as they were set on the old cylinder. This will help you either avoid clutch adjustments altogether or keep them to a minimum.

Clutch adjustment VAZ 2107

Then insert the push rod of the slave cylinder into the transmission fork.
Screw the two bolts together with the plate. As practice shows, it is most convenient to first make the upper bolt, and then the lower one.
Connect the fluid line. Screw it into the cylinder with a 10 key.
Put the spring back on.

After replacing the working cylinder, it must be pumped.
If both the main and the clutch slave cylinders were replaced at the same time, then read the bleeding method below:

Unscrew the bleed nipple 1 turn.
Wait for a moment until liquid flows from it along with air bubbles.
When the air bubbles come out, tighten the union until it stops.
Put on the cap.
Leveling is over!

Now let's consider another option - using a repair kit for the clutch cylinders - the main and the working one.

So, we removed the main cylinder and now we proceed to disassemble it.

VAZ 2107 repair of the clutch master cylinder

We start by removing the fitting. Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.
Then you can easily remove the fitting with the gasket.
Now remove the rubber boot (protective cap) by simply prying it off with a screwdriver or other convenient object.
Now, using a 22 key on the other side, it is necessary to unscrew the plug of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder.
The retaining ring must also be removed from the boot side.
This can be done with two screwdrivers, or with special pliers. More convenient with expanding pliers.
Now you can easily remove all the insides of the cylinder.

Now about the damaged parts and their replacement:

Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2107 disassembled

All rubber seals should be replaced. 2 rubber rings - on the piston and pusher rod, one on the fitting, and we also replace the protective cap if necessary.
Replace the spring if necessary. If it is deformed or damaged.
Also pay attention to the inner mirror of the cylinder. It should not have scuffs and chips.
If the piston is damaged, the pusher is bent, then it is better to replace the cylinder with a new one.

During assembly, all parts should be washed very thoroughly.

Note!
Never wash parts in gasoline or oil and do not allow these liquids to get inside the cylinder. Lubrication is carried out with brake fluid only!

Replace all circlips.
Tighten the clutch master cylinder plug securely!

Then install the cylinder back to the vehicle. This is how the repair of the clutch master cylinder is done on a VAZ 2107 car.

VAZ 2107 repair of the clutch slave cylinder

Clamp the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder in a vice and unscrew the rear plug.
Remove the protective rubber cap.
Remove the retaining ring from the plug side and remove all internal parts of the slave cylinder.
Unscrew the bleed nipple with a 10 wrench.

Check the condition of the spring.
Replace all rubber seals of the VAZ 2107 slave cylinder.
Check the condition of the slave cylinder mirror.
Wipe the inside with a clean cloth if necessary.
Clean the bleed nipple. If the edges are "licked" on it, replace it.

Wash all parts in brake fluid.
Lubricate each part with brake fluid when assembling.
Reassemble all parts in reverse order.
Install the retaining ring, protective cap and plug.

Install the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder on the car (see above).

For the clutch to work, it is very important that there is no air inside the system. To do this, bleed the clutches.
This is done according to the principle of bleeding the brakes. It takes two people.
So:

Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid.
Put on the bleed nipple of the working cylinder with a hose that is suitable for the diameter. Dip the other end into a bottle (or other container) with brake fluid.

Important! The other end of the pumping hose must always be below the liquid level in the container.

Unscrew the bleed nipple approximately half a turn.
The second person at this time, at the command of the first, presses and releases the clutch pedal.
Repeat the last step until all the air is gone from the system and only brake fluid without bubbles comes out.

Important! Maintain the brake fluid level in the expansion tank!

Next, you need to press the clutch pedal and, without releasing it, screw the bleed union.
Put a cap on it.

Thus, we bleed the clutch and completed the repair of the VAZ 2107 clutch.
The attached photos clearly show some of the details of the process. We really hope that this article helped you repair the clutches on the VAZ 2107 with your own hands!

The main purpose of the clutch master cylinder is that it transfers the force to the slave cylinder from the clutch pedal using the working fluid.

If the master cylinder is defective, then the control of the car is impaired, it will be impossible to disconnect the transmission from the engine.

How to determine if the clutch master cylinder is defective:

periodically check the level of the working fluid in the reservoir. A sharp decrease in it will tell you about a system malfunction;
check if there are leaks to the main and working cylinder housing;
failures of the clutch pedal, which occurs due to the ingress and accumulation of air into the clutch system;
underpressure of the pedal and vibration of the gear lever.

The main types of faults:

leak in the master cylinder;
wear on cuffs;
piston wear;
the inside of the case is damaged (chips, scratches, etc.);
for all classics of the Auto VAZ family, the clutch device is the same, including for 2107. The sequence of actions is the same.

There are two ways to troubleshoot the master cylinder - replacement with a new one and repair. What can be repaired:

replace rubber cuffs;
frame.

These actions do not always lead to the desired effect, especially on an old car with decent mileage. It is recommended to replace the master cylinder with a new one. Its cost is not high, from about 450 to 500 rubles. It's better to buy the original.The cost of this type of work in a car service is from 550 rubles. But for most car enthusiasts, this operation is not so difficult to perform on their own.

new GVC;

brake fluid;

a set of wrenches with an extension;

syringe or rubber bulb.

Pump out fluid from the hydraulic reservoir using a syringe or rubber bulb.

Remove the expansion tank, move it to the side so that it does not interfere with the work.

Unscrew the tube with a 13 spanner. Move it slightly.

Loosen the clamp and disconnect the rubber hose that runs from the reservoir to the cylinder.

Unscrew the two nuts with a 13 mm socket wrench and extension.

Remove the master cylinder from the studs.

Replace the GCC with a new one.

Collect everything in reverse order.

The replacement was made, but you should not hit the road without bleeding the clutch system. The process is similar to bleeding the brakes and is performed in the following sequence:

Brake fluid is poured into the reservoir.

A hose is put on the union of the master cylinder, the other end of it is lowered into a bottle with poured liquid. This will show how air leaves the system during the pumping process.

The operation requires an assistant. One sits in the car and presses the clutch pedal on command 5-6 times, after which he leaves it pressed. The second opens the nozzle until the release of air stops. This is done several times until all the air from the clutch system has been removed.

Tighten the union and add fluid to the reservoir.

Video (click to play).

After replacing the clutch master cylinder and bleeding the entire system, you can safely move on the road without fear that the clutch will fail and the car will lose control because of this.