DIY oil repair radiator

In detail: do-it-yourself oil repair radiator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

An oil cooler is a very reliable heating device. He has been working for years without creating unnecessary problems for his master. But the time comes, and even he starts to malfunction. Someone just gets rid of it, someone carries it to the workshop, and someone tries to repair the oil heater with their own hands.

How difficult is this process? Let's figure it out together.

Oil cooler Watt WOH-80

The components of an oil heater are:

Hermetic body in the form of an accordion, consisting of two panels welded to each other. Technical oil is pumped inside, and in almost all models air remains in small quantities. But this does not harm the device, because oil, when it comes into contact with air, does not create conditions for corrosion. If there was water instead, the probability of rupture of metal structures would be very high.
In the lower part, a heating element is inserted into the device on the side. It is with its help that the oil and the radiator itself are heated.
A control and safety unit is installed next to the heating element. Its main and important element is a fused thermostat. The first is responsible for setting the required temperature regime, and the second is for the safety of operation. If, for any reason, oil begins to flow out of the housing, the fuse will work and stop the supply of electricity to the heating element.

Today manufacturers use disposable wire-type fuses or reusable bimetallic pills. As for the control relays, in oil heaters they are similar to an electric kettle, and not to irons. In the design, the relay hangs in the air without touching the device case.

Video (click to play).

Each device has two switches. Three wires are suitable for each - a phase, zero from the heating element and a wire from a thermal relay. Three wires are required for the backlighting of the switches to work.

The electrical circuit of an oil heater is practically the same as in irons, electric kettles and other heating devices. It is simple yet reliable. Usually, all these heaters have two heating elements, and when both are turned on at once, the power consumption increases greatly. But at the same time, the time to reach the operating temperature increases. If the temperature in the rooms is low, then even with two heating elements turned on, the device can work without turning off.

The metal case, which covers the power and safety unit of the device, has ventilation slots at the top and bottom. If you close them, then the device will not suffer from this, but it will be difficult to work. It will turn off faster, but not turn on so soon. Therefore, it is recommended not to hang items to dry on the radiator. If this happens, try not to cover the ventilation gaps.

The appearance of the heater creates the feeling that it is a single whole, that is, the electrical unit and the body are connected by means of a rolling. But this is only an appearance. Pay attention to the inscription "do not cover" - under it there are several screws with which the cover is held on the case. They need to be unscrewed, but the lid will not come off, because a spring is installed at the bottom of it, which holds it. Just remove it and remove the cover.

Now pay attention to the heating element. It is sealed tightly and hermetically. The manufacturers did this on purpose so that the curious would not go in there. These tubular heating elements last for decades, so there is no point in touching them.If one of them is out of order, then it is better to purchase a new oil heater. No one can repair such a breakdown with their own hands. To do this, you will have to replace the elements, but at home and even in some workshops, it is impossible to roll the heating element back into the case with one hundred percent tightness. The bottom line is constantly leaking oil, which can lead to big trouble.

But everyone can wipe the connection elements with alcohol. All of them are made in the form of terminals, so it will not be a big problem to disconnect, wipe and reconnect them. It is important here not to confuse anything by installing the wire to a specific terminal.

The same goes for replacing parts of the power supply and security. It will be difficult to repair any of them with your own hands. And if you are not a specialist in this matter, then you are unlikely to succeed. Therefore, there is only one way out - to replace the failed elements with new ones. All of them are held by screws or brackets, so it won't be too difficult to remove them. Again, we remind you that your main task is not to confuse the connection wires. After all, the electrical circuit of the radiator is the basis for its correct and efficient operation.

Oil heater Forte EW-RD

Although it is not recommended to repair the tank with your own hands, some DIYers still try to fix it. What do you need to know so that the result does not disappoint you?

The oil is drained first. Pay attention to its grade. The fact is that during the repair of the oil heater case, some of the oil will spill out, and it will have to be replenished. At the same time, it is impossible to mix mineral oil with synthetic one. Its volume should be such that an air cushion remains inside the case. It is needed to expand the oil.
Usually the metal body of the radiator is welded or soldered. The first option is preferable. But not every home craftsman has this opportunity, so many people choose soldering. Please note that when brazing the oil cooler, you must use silver, brass, or copper-phosphorus solder. Tin can not be used. A burner is required. During the soldering process, water is poured into the tank. After the end of the work, the body must be dried.
Oil is not poured into the repaired tank as usual. It must be evaporated at a temperature of + 90C. It is not recommended to do a higher temperature, as the oil will begin to oxidize.

Sometimes small holes in the body are closed with a threaded connection. The repair method is not very reliable, but it is acceptable as a temporary option. It is important here to seal the joint well. In the process of a reusable cycle - heating and cooling - any sealant will begin to crack, so that smudges cannot be avoided.

Repair of heating elements in the heater

As for replacing the heating element with your own hands, this heating element is selected by power. And if you do decide to change it yourself, you will have to sweat. Flaring will not be so difficult, but doing the flaring again is a big problem. Some models of oil heaters are equipped with removable heating elements, which makes them easier to repair. But even in this case, it is necessary to devote a lot of time and attention to the junction of the case and the heating element. Any gaskets and sealants will not last long, and the likelihood that you will return to repair work again is very high.

It is better to use electric welding to close the hole in the tank. To do this, you need a thin sheet inverter. Before starting welding, it is imperative to remove rust from the edges of the crack or hole. Repairing the tank in this way is the best option, which increases your chances of success.

So, it is possible to repair the oil cooler with your own hands, but is it worth it? The price of the device on the market is not very high, and the heater itself serves for a long time, so you should not risk avoiding the small costs associated with the purchase of a new unit. But if you just want to dig at your leisure in the electrical part or work with welding, then go for it, taking into account all these recommendations.

Electric oil heaters are common devices and are highly reliable, but it happens that even such simple devices fail.In a situation where the heater does not turn on or does not heat well, you need to check the availability of the warranty card. With a valid warranty, it should be taken to a service center. But it often happens that such an opportunity is absent, and the repair of the oil heater will have to be done by hand. In this case, it is necessary to consider the possible causes of breakdowns and find out methods for their elimination.

Different models of heaters can have a different number of heating elements, thermostats and switching devices for connection and connection. They also have forced air systems to enhance convection and increase heat transfer.

The heating elements are housed in a rugged, sealed, ribbed, oil-filled enclosure covered with a durable dielectric powder coating. The switches are attached to the outside of the heater. All connections of heating devices and external control elements are connected through a hermetically sealed sleeve.

The circuit of the oil heater is constructed as follows: the supply wire with a plug is connected through switches and a thermal fuse to the heating elements. In this case, the thermal fuse provides a break in the supply circuit in the event of an emergency overheating of the device. The latest models of oil heaters are also equipped with a position sensor that turns off the device in the event of a fall or critical deviation from the operating state.

If a decision is made to fix the malfunction with your own hands, then the analysis of the heater should be started from the side of the power cord connection. In most cases, it fits over the cover covering the control panel and is secured with external screws. By unscrewing them and removing the control panel cover, you can gain access to all safety and switching devices.This completes the analysis of the heater, since it is highly undesirable to break the tightness of the case. In 90% of cases, any malfunction is a failure of control systems or an open contact outside the sealed case.Typical heater malfunctions are as follows. When the device is connected to the network, the automatic protection on the switchboard is triggered. This is a sign of a short circuit. Repair of oil heaters in this case is performed by determining the location of the short circuit and eliminating the cause of the short circuit. If the device does not heat up or heats up weakly, there can be many reasons. You can find out why the device does not work by dialing the circuit and identifying the faulty element.Traces of oil on the body and floor will indicate a leak. It is necessary to find the leak and restore the integrity of the case. You will need tools to fix a heater, but they are common enough to be found in any home.It is necessary to consider in more detail each of the possible breakdowns.If an oil leak is found on the body of the device, you need to find the place of the leak, weld it or solder it. In the latter case, silver solder should be used, it is impossible to solder with simple tin. Leaking oil will not allow high-quality soldering of the leak, which means that you will have to drain the oil and only then solder using a burner. Then you should check the tightness of the soldering point by filling the heater with water. After making sure that the liquid does not leak at the leak, it must be drained and the heater dried by heating.After all the water has evaporated, you can pour oil into the heater. Before pouring, the substance should be heated to 90 ° C. In case of significant leakage, the entire volume must be changed, using transformer oil if possible. When filling the heater, leave room for thermal expansion. It is strictly forbidden to add another oil, since the brand of the original product is unknown, you can accidentally mix mineral with synthetic. The entire volume of oil must be replaced.The noise in the heater can be both intermittent and constant. The source of noise after switching on may be water, which got into the oil in the form of steam during assembly due to the high humidity in the workshop. As water heats up, it changes from a liquid to a gaseous state and produces a crackling sound.Bursting air bubbles can also be a cause of startup noise. This happens when the heater is carried and the oil is shaken in it. After warming up the device, these noises disappear and do not pose any danger for further operation.
Constant crackling is the cause of a malfunction of the electrical part of the heater. It should be found and eliminated, since such a device cannot be operated.Also, the heater can crackle with linear expansion of parts, the dimensions of which change when heated. This is also not dangerous, in addition, the sounds disappear when warming up.If the oil cooler stops working, this is most likely due to problems and malfunctions of the electrical part. The check should begin with dismantling the cover that covers the heater wiring diagram. After that, using a tester, you need to check the serviceability of the power cord. The defective element is found by alternate dialing. Then you should switch the tester to the resistance measurement mode and check the condition of the conductors. If the resistance of at least one conductor differs from zero, the plug or wire is replaced.It will not be possible to repair the electrical part, except for the cord, at home. It is necessary to remember, and it is better to photograph the order of connecting the terminals, and then dismantle the faulty sensor. In the store you need to purchase the same one and install it in place of the old one.The bimetallic thermostat is located next to the heater mode control keys. It is a rotating handle connected to a moving contact and a bimetallic plate. It consists of two different metals and is capable of changing its linear dimensions depending on temperature, and when the ends are rigidly fixed, it can bend and close the contact.The serviceability of the bimetallic thermostat is checked by connecting it to the tester. By gradually turning the heater temperature control knob, the resistance is measured at the relay terminals. The resistance must be equal to 0 at all positions of the regulator. Otherwise, you need to wipe the contacts with alcohol or clean them with emery paper (zero). If the manipulations did not lead to normal operation of the regulator, it should be replaced.The number of these elements depends on the heating element connection diagram and the set of heater modes. In most cases, the device has 3 operating modes and 3 self-healing thermal fuses, with 2 heating elements of different power installed.

Do-it-yourself oil heater repair always begins with this procedure, because electrical components are located under the protective cover, which is attached to one end of the heater. Moreover, the manufacturer has attached it in such a way that it seems that he and the body are one.

Remove the cover at the top of the casing. There are words on it "Do not cover" or do not cover... Use a screwdriver to remove.
They put the radiator on its side, remove the spring.
Slightly unbend the plastic or metal pad and remove it. This is done carefully, without sudden movements. Otherwise, the pad may break.
Carefully put the casing aside. It will only be possible to unfold it and put it on the floor near the main part of the device, because the thermal relay attached to it is connected to Heating element with a short wire.

Burnout, contamination of contacts.
Defective plug.
Failure of the thermal fuse.
Deformation of the bimetallic plate.
Breakdown of heating element.
Failure of the drop or position sensor.
Oil leak.

These breakdowns are oxidation, loosening of contacts, failure of the plug.

After disassembling the radiator, you need to check each wire. This is done with a multimeter or tester. First, check the serviceability of the plug. For this, one terminal of the tester is applied to one end of it. The second terminal of the tester must be attached to the connection between the thermal relay and the wire coming from the plug.

If the tester did not give a signal when alternately applying the second terminal of the tester to the end of the input phase and neutral wire, then the plug is faulty. You need her replace.

After that, all other wires are checked with a tester. One of its terminals is always attached to the plug. The other applies to all terminals. The check sequence is as follows:

thermal relay contacts;

thermal fuse contacts;

contacts of the heating element operation regulator;

contacts of heating elements.

If, when checking the output contact of the thermal relay, there is no tester signal, then the contact may be poor or the thermal relay has broken, or rather bimetallic plate... First pay attention to the contact. The wire terminal is pulled and checked. If it is clean, there is no oxidation or soot, then it is serviceable, and the problem lies in the base of the terminal attachment or the thermal relay. If the terminal has the listed disadvantages, then it needs to be cleaned. In extreme cases, it is replaced with a new one.

All contacts can be visually checked. If the terminals are clean and undamaged, then the problem is not with them. Some of the contacts may be weakened.Then they are tightened or more flattened the base into which the terminal is inserted.

This process consists in replacing the bimetallic plate or the whole item. The bimetallic plate must be replaced when it is strongly deformed, and any position of the relay wheel does not close the contact.

The bimetallic plate is changed as follows:

Set the lowest heating temperature.
Remove the regulator knob.
Unscrew the nuts, dismantle the frame.
Remove the bimetallic plate, put a new one in its place.
Assemble the regulator.
Check that the plate is working properly. This requires turn the regulator knob, changing the position of the plate and setting a certain temperature level... Next, the plate is heated with a hairdryer or fan heater to the set temperature level. If it bends and the contact is disconnected, then it is well seated. Otherwise, the replacement is incorrect. The difficulty must be solved by weakening the pressure of the plate on the contact, which corresponds to the lowest heating temperature.

Perform similar actions with a broken thermal fuse.

Leakage of the main part of the radiator and oil leakage are the most frequent problems of these heaters. Oil may leak through an accidental hole or wall that is corroded. If the second option takes place, then it is better to purchase another radiator, since corrosion can destroy a larger area than seen. So after a while, oil will flow near the brewed or sealed place.

Holes or small holes, cracks can be:

The first option should be avoided. Soldering cannot provide a reliable connection, and with constant heating / cooling, strong contact between the solder and the metal of the tank will begin to crack. Therefore, it is better to weld the hole.

The preparation of the heater for brazing or welding is the same:

Draining oil from the tank.

Cleaning the problem area from dirt and rust. This can be done with sandpaper.

Pouring water into the tank. This will avoid a possible fire (there was oil inside, and its remnants were definitely preserved).

Turning the radiator into a position in which water will not flow out of the hole.

After eliminating the problem the water is drained, the tank is dried and the oil is poured... Old oil is unlikely to work as some of it has leaked out. Therefore, its quantity is not enough to fill the container by 90%. If the brand and characteristics of the oil are known, then you can buy the same. Synthetic and mineral oils must not be mixed. If you plan to fill in new oil, then take only transformer oil. You cannot use the practice. Otherwise, scale will appear on the heating element.

The oil requires preparation. It consists in heating it to a temperature of 90 ° C and evaporation. It is impossible to heat more, since oxidation and combustion of the liquid will begin. The amount of oil should be such that it does not exceed 90% of the tank's capacity.

The first one cannot be repaired.

If the heating element is built-in, then you need to buy a new radiator because if you can remove the damaged heating element, then put it in place so that there is no oil leakage is almost impossible. This element is rolled into a metal case. It is easy to flare it, but it is difficult to perform a very high-quality flaring.

Situation with a removable heating element is easier... They take it off and put another in its place. Parts to be picked up to replace a bad heating element must have the same power, be made of copper and fit tightly into the hole. Heat-resistant gaskets and sealant are used for sealing..

The correct operation of the drop sensor is checked by tilting the heater to the side and ringing the contacts. The absence of a signal indicates a sensor malfunction. Its renovation takes a long time, so it is easier to buy a new one.

DIY oil cooler: common breakdowns, fault repair and self-assembly

The installation of an oil radiator for heating in a house in the country or in a garage is currently a common and necessary thing. Indeed, despite all the delights of scientific and technological progress, interruptions in heating do occur. Such a unit can be assembled with your own hands or you can purchase a factory model, but in any case, sooner or later, all owners are faced with the need to repair these products. We will talk about possible breakdowns and assembly intricacies now.

In the photo - a voluminous home-made unit.

The older generation remembers that earlier in the accompanying documentation for all electrical appliances there was always a detailed diagram, thanks to which it was possible to repair the product with your own hands.

Modern instructions, as a rule, do not contain such explanations. But you should not despair, the oil heater is not a spaceship and it is quite possible to understand it.

Important: you do not need to be alarmed if the oil cooler clicks when heated or after being turned off.
When the technical oil inside the unit heats up or cools down, slight crackling is normal.
Plus, such sounds can be made by a thermostat.
In some cases, placing the appliance on a solid, level surface will alleviate the problem.

If the sensors on the control panel of the electrical appliance do not show signs of life, then first of all you need to make sure that the outlet is working... A heavy load entails burning of the contacts. The next number is the fork, here the reason is the same. After making sure that the outlet and plug are in order, you need to check the mechanical integrity of the wire itself, chafing, creases, squeezing;

If the indicators are on, the fan, when it is there, is spinning, but there is no heat, you need to check the operation of the thermal relay... Such things are often not repaired, the price for it is small and there are such relays on sale. Unscrewing a pair of fasteners and reconnecting the terminals will not be difficult;
In the case when the unit heats up normally, but does not turn off after heating, the reason must be looked for in the thermostat... As in the case of the thermostat, the thermostat is not repaired, it is immediately replaced with a new one. Despite the fact that the device seems to work, it is not worth delaying the replacement of the thermostat. Heating elements, operating in a constant overload mode, will quickly burn out, and this is already serious;
If the wires and automation are normal, you need to check the health of the heating elements... The "punched" heating element can be replaced only if the possibility of dismantling is provided. In inexpensive models, the heating elements can be tightly sealed into the case, here it is already cheaper to buy a new heater;

Diagnostics of heating elements using an ohmmeter.

Tip: although the diagram of the oil cooler device is relatively simple, if you decide to fix the unit with your own hands, you should not rely on memory.
All disassembly actions must be recorded on paper or video, in order to subsequently return everything to its original state.

Repairing an outlet, plug or cord is extremely simple. The socket or plug is unscrewed and in case of carbon deposits, all burnt parts are removed and cleaned with emery. The cord is simply inspected and "ringed" with an ohmmeter.

Do not forget about the contact group inside the device itself. After removing the protective cover, the internal contacts should also be inspected and prevented.

It happens that small debris gets into the anchor of the thermostat and the contacts also burn out. In this case, you need to disconnect this unit, remove the cause of the blockage and clean the short circuit, additionally wipe it with alcohol.

When completely replacing the thermostat, it is advisable to immediately adjust the settings. This can be done by setting the armature movement in the range of 1.5 - 2.5 mm. Since the cover has been removed, it will be useful to immediately ring the thermal relay and fuse.

Heater based on MS-140.

If, after all the efforts, it turned out that the cause of the malfunction is the "punctured" heating element, then it will need to be replaced. This is easy to do, but you need to act carefully so as not to overflow the oil. Plus, our Chinese friends prefer to save on the quality of the gaskets, which often leads to insignificant oil leakage, the algorithm of actions will be similar.

The device of the oil cooler provides for the installation of heating elements in the lower end of the device. The cover can be secured with a few bolts or a pair of locknuts. Turn the device upside down and unscrew the fasteners, carefully remove the heaters.

Tip: on the modern market there are a lot of various models of heating elements, visually similar models may differ in characteristics or have different mounts.
Therefore, the ideal option would be to take the old heating element and, presenting it in the store, ask to pick up the same one.

In order to eliminate or prevent oil leakage when replacing the heating element, you should use paronite gaskets, as a rule, they come with the heating element. Note, rubber gaskets are not recommended, they can be destroyed in contact with technical oil or will not withstand elevated temperatures. In order to play it safe, in addition to paronite, you need to additionally coat the connection with heat-resistant sealants.

It is not difficult to make such a unit at home. Moreover, the scheme of the oil cooler device is the same everywhere, the difference lies only in the power of the equipment and the dimensions of the device body.

Depending on the size and required power of the device, from 1 to 4 heating elements can be installed in it. Often one heating element is enough for a household heater.

Standard wiring diagram for oil cooler device.

As for the case itself, the choice is huge. Most often, standard cast-iron aluminum or steel batteries are taken for this purpose. But you can also use an ordinary metal gas cylinder, a pipe of a suitable diameter, or generally a tightly sealed pan. The main thing is that the heating element does not touch the body.

Don't forget the oil itself. As a rule, it is advised to take any refined industrial oil. But electrical transformer oil is considered an ideal option. This composition is already adapted to work at high temperatures.

The price for it is quite high and can take up to half of the budget, so the choice of the volume of the case must be approached carefully.

It is most convenient to make a heater from a standard MS-140 cast iron battery, it has an acceptable cost, plus there are ready-made heating elements and related accessories on the market that are adapted for this model.

As already mentioned, the heaters are mounted in the lower end of the unit. The body must be grounded, on the opposite side of the structure, a ball valve and an oil cooler drain hose are installed from below. This is especially true for volumetric heaters with a heavy case, where oil drainage, if necessary, is hampered by a high mass.

Since we are talking about a heater based on the MS-140, the upper opening of the battery, which is located above the heating element, is closed with a plug. And above the drain tap, the hole is closed with a plug with a Mayevsky tap built into it, so that, if necessary, you can relieve the pressure.

Important: regardless of the size and volume of the heater, its oil filling should be within 85%.
The remaining 15% will go to compensate for the expansion of the oil when heated, plus in large units it is advisable to install an additional expansion tank.

Characteristics of different models of heaters.

The video in this article shows the intricacies of assembling a heater.As you can see, the malfunctions of the oil cooler, as well as assembling a handicraft electrical appliance with your own hands, are not transcendentally difficult and impossible.For those who find it easier to visually perceive information, we have prepared a video in this article.Do-it-yourself oil heater repair is quite real. Many owners successfully restore the functionality of these heat sources without resorting to the services of craftsmen.When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - how it works and how it works. The oil heater consists of:

metal case;

Heating element (heating element);

control unit;

connecting wires.

Oil is poured into the heater body, which, when turned on, is heated by the heating element. Heat is transferred to the walls of the case, and from them to the heated room. When a certain temperature is reached, the control unit is triggered and heating stops. The cycle repeats as long as the heater is connected to the mains. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained in the heated room.There are not so many reasons why the oil heater does not work. They can be conditionally divided into two parts - electrical and mechanical. Failure in work electrical equipment most often falls on heating elements and control communications - thermal relay, switch, thermal fuses. There may be a problem in the wiring, but this is extremely rare.TO mechanical Damage includes various holes in the housing, as well as the formation of cavities on it through which oil flows out. As a rule, these are the fruits of corrosion activity. Determining the type of malfunction is not a big deal. Mechanical breakdowns are always associated with oil stains under the heater. All other faults are related to the electrical part.To repair a heater, you first need to create conditions for this. One of the main prerequisites for a successful renovation will be preparation for it. First of all, you need to choose a place where you will disassemble the heater. It should be large enough and well lit. A garage or a separate room is best suited for this.Then the tool and accessories are prepared. Since the device of the heater does not represent any complexity, then the tool will be the most ordinary one. A set of screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters, a small hammer and an awl - this will be enough for repairs. Before repairing, you must have a soldering iron, a tester, WD-40 liquid, grease (Graphite or Litol-24) and a little alcohol to wipe the contacts. There must be a clean rag. If the cause of the breakdown is determined in advance, then spare parts are needed to replace the failed parts.The question of how to repair an oil heater with your own hands arises for everyone when the device stops working. Meanwhile, there is absolutely no difficulty in this matter. First of all, it is necessary to carry out disassembly in order to get to the object of repair. To do this, detach the control panel from the case. As a rule, it is secured with snaps. But there is also a fastening of another kind. For example screws or staples.Therefore, first you need to carefully inspect the heater in order to determine how the panel is attached. Then carefully, without making great efforts, remove it. Disassembly should be done without brute force as all fasteners are made of plastic.De-energize the heater before starting repairs.Checking the power cord and switch... From this it is necessary to begin work on restoring the operability of the oil heater. The fact is that during long-term operation at the connection points, the wires usually burn out, and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the connection point. After that, reassemble everything. Contact re-established. We check with a tester whether this is really so. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for a wire break. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs.This is done simply using the same tester.Next stage - inspection of all contact connections in the control unit. It is necessary to very carefully inspect each contact for burning, oxidation and loosening of the fastening. A screwdriver, a fine-grained abrasive cloth, and a cotton swab moistened with alcohol will be sufficient for the repair. It is possible that somewhere you will need a soldering iron to solder the wiring that has come off.It may happen that arose malfunction in the thermal relay, or temperature regulator. In this case, you need to carefully remove and disassemble it. After disassembly, the bimetallic plate, which is inside, is removed and replaced with a new one. The thing is that there can be no more malfunctions there. After replacing the plate, the relay will restore its potential.Repair of thermal fuses will consist in checking their performance and replacing them, if necessary, with serviceable ones. Checking is a simple dialing test by a tester. There may be several thermal fuses, or they are also called thermostats. We check each one.Left check the condition of heating elements... To do this, it is enough to measure their resistance with a tester. It should be less than 1 kΩ. One connection is used to check for an open circuit. Thus, if the tester shows a lot of resistance or shows nothing at all, then it's time to change the heating element. Image - DIY oil repair radiator

This completes the check of the electrical part of the heater. Moving on to mechanical failures.

Of these, only one is relevant - oil leak... In this case, the heater will have to be disassembled to drain the remaining oil inside. If there is damage to the case, it is important to determine exactly where it happened. Then you need to carefully clean the found place with a sandpaper. This is done to determine the repair method. If it turns out that the hole is small, and there are no traces of corrosion around, then one of the repair options would be to screw a self-tapping screw or a suitable screw diameter into the hole. Another option would be to use a special sealant called "cold welding". Before use, it is kneaded in hands to the state of plasticine.

A rolled bead of sealant is placed over the hole and carefully leveled to the surface. After 15-20 minutes, it hardens so much that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate the hole that has formed from the rust. In this case, you will need to sand the entire rusty spot to a "live" metal. Then again you need to carefully inspect and estimate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then here you need to use welding, that is, apply a patch and scald it. In this case, the repair of the oil heater will be more serious and will require not only a special tool, but also skills.

The heater body is brazed with brass solder or its substitute. Not with tin. Welding is best done with a semiautomatic device. That is, with a wire, not an electrode.

As you can see, repairing oil heaters, and even with your own hands, is within the power of anyone who is familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and plumbing. Therefore, before throwing away the heater, you need to carefully inspect it. If the breakdown is minor, it will be much cheaper to repair than buying a new one..

Video (click to play).

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