Radiola belarus 103 DIY repair

Details: radiola belarus 103 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Class 1 tube radio "Belarus-103" has been produced by the Minsk Radio Plant since 1968.

Radiola "Belarus-103" consists of a ten-lamp radio receiver of the 1st class, designed to receive broadcasting stations in the range of long, medium, short and ultrashort waves, a three-speed electric playing device Sh-EPU-15A with an automatic switch and a microlift.

The radio acoustic system consists of three 2GD-19 loudspeakers connected in series.

The dimensions of the radio are 790x380x355 mm. Weight - 27 kg.

UHF and VHF frequency converter on 6N3P lamp.
Amplifier of high frequency of AM path and amplifier of intermediate frequency of FM path on 6K4P tube.
The frequency converter of the AM path on the 6I1P lamp.
Two-stage combined intermediate frequency amplifier for AM and FM signals on two 6K4P tubes.
Detector of AM signals and AGC on a 6N2P lamp.
Preliminary ULF on a 6Zh1P lamp.
Low frequency amplifier and phase shifter on a 6N2P lamp.
Final push-pull amplifier on two 6P14P tubes.
Optical tuning indicator on the 6E1P lamp.

The receiver has a frequency detector on two D2V diodes and an amplitude limiter that suppresses parasitic amplitude modulation.

A selenium column of ABC120-270 type is used in the rectifier to power the anode circuits of the lamps.

Long waves - LW: 150-408 kHz (2000 - 735 m);
Medium waves - CB: 525 - 1605 MHz (571 - 187 m);
Short waves - HF I: 11.6 - 12.1 MHz 25.85 - 24.8 m);
Short waves - HF II: 9.3 - 9.8 MHz (32.8 - 30.6 m);
Shortwave - HF III: 3.95 - 7.6 MHz (75.9 - 39.5 m).
VHF: 65.8 - 73 MHz (4.56 - 4.11 m).

Video (click to play).

The intermediate frequency for the VHF band is 8.4 MHz, for the rest of the bands is 465 kHz.

The sensitivity of the radio receiver when operating with an external antenna and an output power of 50 mW in the long, medium and short wave ranges is not worse than 50 μV with a signal-to-noise ratio of 20 dB, and in the VHF range - 8 μV.

Sensitivity when working with an internal magnetic antenna in the LW and MW ranges - 500 μV / m.

Receiving sensitivity in the “local reception” position is not worse than 0.7 mV.

The selectivity of the receiver on the adjacent channel at detuning of + -10 kHz is not worse than -60 dB. In the FM path (intermediate frequency 6.5 MHz), the average steepness of the slopes of the resonance characteristic with signal attenuation from 6 to 26 dB is about 0.25 dB / kHz.

The bandwidth of the receiver in the AM path when the signal is attenuated by 6 dB in the "narrow band" position - 4 kHz, in the "wide band" position - 11 kHz, in the "local reception" position - 14 kHz, in the FM path the bandwidth is 160 kHz.

The AGC system provides a 10 dB change in the signal at the receiver output when the input signal changes by 60 dB.

The rated output power of the LF amplifier is 4 W, the maximum is 7 W.

The range of reproducible sound frequencies is from 80 to 12,500 Hz.

The range of tone control is 12 dB.

The sensitivity of the amplifier from the jacks of the tape recorder at a nominal output power is 150 mV, the background level is 54 dB.

The radio is powered by 220 and 127 V AC mains, power consumption - 100 W.

Radiola "Belarus-103" is built according to the functional-block principle. It consists of six units: VHF, turntable, high frequency, intermediate frequency, low frequency and power supply.

The VHF unit includes an HF amplifier and a local oscillator. The first stage of the RF amplifier is assembled on the L1-1 triode according to the scheme with a grounded intermediate point in the capacitive branch of the grid circuit (capacitors C1-2 and C1-3) and neutralizing the lamp throughput capacity (capacitor C1-4).

The heterodyne frequency converter is made according to a double balanced circuit on the L1-1 lamp, the anode circuit of which includes an intermediate frequency filter (coils L1-7 -L1-8), tuned to 6.5 MHz. To reduce the stray radiation of the local oscillator, frequency conversion is carried out at the second harmonic.

The VHF unit is assembled on a printed circuit board made of foil-clad getinax.

In terms of range, the unit is rebuilt with aluminum cores in the anode and heterodyne coils.

The high frequency unit consists of input circuits, an RF amplifier and a frequency converter.

The input circuits of the LW and KB ranges are dual-loop band-pass filters with inductive coupling. In the KB ranges, the input circuits are made in the form of single resonant circuits, inductively coupled to the antenna.

The HF amplifier is a resonant amplifier with autotransformer switching on the circuit from the anode side of the L2-1 lamp in the KB ranges and a resistor amplifier in the LW and SV ranges. To reduce the gain in the “local reception” position, a resistor R2-12 is connected to the cathode circuit of the L2-1 lamp of the HF amplifier. The cascade of the frequency converter consists of a local oscillator assembled on the triode part of the L2-2 lamp according to a circuit with transformer feedback and a mixer assembled on the heptode part of the same lamp, the signal grid of which includes a filter-plug tuned to an intermediate frequency.

The intermediate frequency block includes: two stages of the IF amplifier with double-loop bandpass filters, made on lamps L3-1 and L3-2, an FM detector, assembled according to the scheme of a symmetric fractional detector on semiconductor diodes D3-2, D3-3. AM detector, made on a semiconductor diode D3-4, an AGC detector, assembled on two semiconductor diodes D3-5 and D3-6.

The AM and FM circuits are connected in series. The bandwidth is adjusted by smoothly changing the coupling between the loops in the first two bandpass filters. On the AM path, a delayed AGC scheme was used, on the FM path - a grid limiting system.

The LF amplifier unit has two preliminary amplification stages assembled on an L4-1 lamp, a phase inverter on an L4-2 lamp and a final push-pull power amplification stage on L4-3 and L4-4 lamps. In the anode circuit of the lamp of the first stage, tone controls are switched on separately for high and low sound frequencies.

The power supply is made on a bridge circuit on a selenium rectifier ABC-120-270. Taking into account the high requirements for the background level, U-shaped LC and RC filters are included at the output of the rectifier, and the filament circuits of the lamps of the LF amplifier are powered from a separate winding. In addition, a potentiometer is included in the heating circuit, the midpoint of which is supplied with a voltage of 5-7 V.

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Design and support:
Aleksandr Kuznetsov

Technical support: Mikhail Bulakh

Programming: Danil Monchukin

Marketing: Tatiana Anastasyeva

Translation: Natalia Kuznetsova

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The following documentation may be available for the BELARUS R-103L radio system:

Schematic diagram of the radio BELARUS R-103L (order) (download)

Manual for repair and tuning of the radio system BELARUS R-103L (order) (download)

Operating instructions for radio BELARUS R-103L (order) (download)

You can always order a circuit diagram for the BELARUS R-103L radio receiver.

The possibility of ordering a manual for repair and adjustment, as well as operating instructions for the BELARUS R-103L radio receiver, please specify additionally.

Recommended to download in our Free Technical Library:

Hello dear forum users.

Once in childhood he was fond of radio electronics, went to a circle, even made something.
Then the university, work, family and everything was safely forgotten.

Once I decided to clean up the attic and found there an old radio tape Belarus 103. Description No. 1, Description No. 2. Scheme No. 1, Scheme No. 2.
The past was immediately recalled.

So I decided to delve into it, for example, use its amplifier. I just hurried.
I removed the ULF unit from it, including the timbre block, volume control, power trance. I'm afraid I shouldn't have done it.
Then I had to go on a business trip, then that, then that, and again it was forgotten.

Now I can’t figure out where to connect what.

Could you, people who are versed in this matter, help me with this.
How to select the ULF and power supply circuit from the above diagram? On the diagrams, the contacts seem to be numbered, but again, I'm afraid to confuse something.
If I need to, I can post pictures of what is soldered.

I would like to hear how good his tube sound is. And do you need to change anything there?
And thanks in advance.

_________________
I buy the parts necessary for collages (wood, brass, glass, carbon-bakelite.) from retro devices of the USSR and more ancient (and the devices themselves, maybe non-working).

_________________
Everything can be found for free. But. I'm afraid 3 lives will not be enough.

_________________
I buy the parts necessary for collages (wood, brass, glass, carbon-bakelite.) from retro devices of the USSR and more ancient (and the devices themselves, maybe non-working).

better quality, it is necessary to take ve lots of pieces of 100 in each and compare

schematically better than the B-103, there is a UHF and a 2-stroke output

_________________
I make diagnoses and enemas, cons in a turnip is not my method.

_________________
I am looking for 22 coils. Phoenix-005 UP.

_________________
Live a century, learn a century, and you will die a fool.

Well, about such a Rigonda, what will non-lovers of this brand say?

_________________
I make diagnoses and enemas, cons in a turnip is not my method.

_________________
I buy the parts necessary for collages (wood, brass, glass, carbon-bakelite.) from retro devices of the USSR and more ancient (and the devices themselves, maybe non-working).

How did you become Americanized. Not a receiver, but a receiver.

_________________
Don't go there, not knowing where. Don't do that, not knowing what.

Last edited by Remo on Aug 30, 2015 02:05 am, edited 4 times in total.

These are purely personal feelings. Who cares about your fantasies? Provide everyone with the sound files of these receivers in order to compare and discuss the quality and some nuances in the sound. But earlier in childhood. but then I heard from a friend in the kitchen and compared. and the neighbor's one is softer in another way, cleaner (because he worked in aa and his lamps are military and the details are special and the sound is also special, perfect.)

_________________
Don't go there, not knowing where. Don't do that, not knowing what.

_________________
I make diagnoses and enemas, cons in a turnip is not my method.

Stop! How "classless"? Until 1965 inclusive, was the class called in the name of the units? It turns out that “Estonia-55” is also classless ?! And "Estonia-2", generally second-class ?! And “Lux”, and “Festival” ?! No. just until 1966 the class did not participate in the name.
"Rigonda-Mono" - 1st grade. Albeit one-stroke ULF.

The balloon is still on Radio Russia.

I like Rigonda more, she even has a nice design, and Belarus-103 in design is a clear step towards the ugliness of the 70s, when instead of nice-looking forms there were “coffins” on legs and “gas stoves”. To fasten the legs on Cantata-204 - dystrophics of the last stage, you can frighten children.

_________________
No peace of mind is a peaceful mechanism
І in a new transistor і lamps
The first age of optimism was far from being written in mavpi.

Class 1 tube radio "Belarus-103" has been produced by the Minsk Radio Plant since 1968.

The radio acoustic system consists of three 2GD-19 loudspeakers connected in series.

The dimensions of the radio are 790x380x355 mm. Weight - 27 kg.

UHF and VHF frequency converter on 6N3P lamp.
Amplifier of high frequency of AM path and amplifier of intermediate frequency of FM path on 6K4P tube.
The frequency converter of the AM path on the 6I1P lamp.
Two-stage combined intermediate frequency amplifier for AM and FM signals on two 6K4P tubes.
Detector of AM signals and AGC on a 6N2P lamp.
Preliminary ULF on a 6Zh1P lamp.
Low frequency amplifier and phase shifter on a 6N2P lamp.
Final push-pull amplifier on two 6P14P tubes.
Optical tuning indicator on the 6E1P lamp.

Read also: DIY spring mattress repair

Jackson

I'll go and see it next week. it seems that it was. in the form of a rosette. type for 220 volts.

Draw me this on a piece of paper in the form of a diagram. and take a picture.

Why do I need a remake. I have an old man already in stock. -)

nikos 54

Bohdan

No one had a chance. -)

In the store on Lenin Street. who is the most advanced in this business. what I was looking for was not found.

Video (click to play).

finnua

That and do not goyvori. bastards.

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis."Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum.If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

registered by the decision of the board of the Ministry of Justice of the Republic of Belarus dated 01.08.2014 No. 170

lotus »20 May 2016, 10:44

Magarych in any case with me

Postman »20 May 2016, 11:00

I didn't promise. If you don’t find a specialist who will undertake the restoration, or you find it, but it seems unrealistically expensive. then.
Keep in mind that the price of repair can only be affected by the exclusivity of the radio tubes (including the sockets for them - sometimes they burn out from temperature and time). Capacitors and other - a penny.
Oh yes! Not everyone has powerful 100-watt soldering irons !!

PS but in general, the thing is really a museum, I envy you.

lotus »20 May 2016, 11:20

lotus »20 May 2016, 11:21

The postman wrote: I did not promise. If you don’t find a specialist who will undertake the restoration, or you find it, but it seems unrealistically expensive. then.
Keep in mind that the price of repair can only be affected by the exclusivity of the radio tubes (including the sockets for them - sometimes they burn out from temperature and time). Capacitors and other - a penny.
Oh yes! Not everyone has powerful 100-watt soldering irons !!

PS but in general, the thing is really a museum, I envy you.

Thank you, Georgievich, I will take into account all of the above.

By the way, there is also a remote antenna. Just a pin?

Postman »20 May 2016, 11:34

Rhombus »20 May 2016, 12:25

lotus »20 May 2016, 12:33

Thank you Ivan

Rhombus »20 May 2016, 13:59

lotus »20 May 2016, 15:35

Rhombus »20 May 2016, 16:10

3 years on the site
user # 1757458

That's exactly the key word here for what.

7 years on the site
user # 329231

I am not a supporter of changes to the original functions of the radio and I think everything is being completed (stereo amplifier, FM, USB), this ruins everything in the bud. Although it all depends on what you need it (radio) for ..

If for vintage and auction, then yes. And if for personal use, then do not care, do it as convenient for use.
I am a supporter of the American approach to technology. The body (for example, a car) is vintage, and under the body. Mom is dear, it's scary to press the pedal. Also in audio equipment, only all built-in gadgets, it is desirable that they would not be striking at first sight. those. slightly camouflaged.

5 years on the site
user # 853913

Good afternoon. Finally got to my radio Sacta. I don’t know how to turn it on, I don’t know how to make it out further.

The wires are soldered. Cut off?

1 year on the site
user # 2097955

I don’t know how to turn it on, I don’t know how to make it out further.
The wires are soldered. Cut off?

It's probably best not to cut the wires for now. It is better to clean the “Sakta” chassis with brushes and turn it on. Maybe the amplifier and VHF are live? There are many Sactas on Kufar now in this state. Can you collect one worker from several?

5 years on the site
user # 853913

I like this idea))) But I need help.

I don't even know how to clean it with brushes)))

8 years on the site
user # 253561

5 years on the site
user # 853913

Moreover, how to turn it on.

Mice lived there. Decades.

After something broke it looks like

This is not my radio. The house was bought 9 years ago. The radiola was in the woodshed.

But there are also records. The old ones.

The house stood still for 9 years before we bought it

10 years on the site
user # 112827

... I need help.
I don't even know how to clean it with brushes)))
And where are the VHF amplifiers.

With such knowledge, there is nothing to climb there yourself. There are people who understand this.
And there are serviceable radios on sale if you really want to listen to old records

But there are also records. The old ones.

5 years on the site
user # 853913

I'm not going to climb. I just cleanse the dirt and ask for advice on what to do with THIS radio tape recorder? I don't want to throw it away. Is it possible to recover?

10 years on the site
user # 112827

Yes, you can restore everything. And here the main two questions are: who will do it and for what money. Suggest in which section of the same Onlineer to look for answers?
In my opinion, the condition is such that it will be more expensive to restore than to buy the same in a more acceptable form. There is no panel with radio fabric, no speaker, no handles, rusty chassis - that's all that is in sight. As an option - just to revive, not striving for the original - it will be much cheaper, if you do it yourself, a normal special will not undertake, but
medwdeolga:

9 years on the site
user # 147318

medwdeolgaIs there a compressor in the house? I first blow out all the debris with a compressor, then I clean it with a brush with a long handle, then with a vacuum cleaner.

5 years on the site
user # 853913

There is no compressor in the house. Yes, tell me where to find someone who will undertake to restore. Orient by price. Thank you.

1 year on the site
user # 2097955

There is no compressor in the house. Yes, tell me where to find someone who will undertake to restore. Orient by price. Thank you.

The whole thrill of radio amateurs is that you absolutely have to do everything yourself

8 years on the site
user # 218492

If you restore this radio tape yourself and for your own pleasure, then the project can stretch for months or years, while, of course, you don't have to pay yourself. But the difficulty lies in knowledge, or rather in their absence, then a lot to read and comprehend the topic. But if there is no basic education in radio engineering, it is extremely difficult. Specialists in lamp technology still remain, but as a rule they do not want to take on it, and the one for whom this business is taken is very expensive. Judging by the state of this instance, you need a donor, or buy a worker and at least with minimal preventive maintenance. I tend to lean more towards the latter. Here you need to decide whether the process itself or the end result is important.

Then they gave me Riga-10 the other day, the body is in a deplorable state, the veneer has fallen off in places, but the inside, oddly enough, is almost in perfect condition, no rust. So I have not decided to comprehend the technology of veneering and coating with varnish or shellac. And although this format of tube technology does not suit me in size, I still took this receiver, because it does not look like the others. In general, I prefer small-sized tube receivers, predominantly made in Europe.

The tonearm is not native, and the fabric will have to be washed, and the body seems to be not even very scratched. Eh, restorers now take a lot of money, and it is cost-effective to repair only expensive receivers -

It is a pity that you have not at least Belarus-57 - that is much better quality, cult and more in demand, and in terms of sound parameters Belarus-59 is superior - resonates rather than rattles.

A. Gorsky, so if you announced the scope of work and the budget planned for this, the restorers would be more willing to come up with specific proposals

It is a pity that you have not at least Belarus-57 - that is much better quality, cult and more in demand, and in terms of sound parameters Belarus-59 is superior - resonates rather than rattles.

A. Gorsky, so if you announced the scope of work and the budget planned for this, the restorers would be more willing to come up with specific proposals

Exactly so, I screwed up - he looks like a helluva lot of white and angular, I got used to the tonearms of the Mirov M-154R, which are much rounder and darker in color. I was wrong, I am guilty, I admit.

Twice we traded such a “Belarus-59”, but this was in 2007, one went for 12,000 rubles, I still went to fix it at home to the buyer (there the wire from the tonearm just fell off), but the other they took it much cheaper, like for 4000 rubles or so (also through the Hammer). I still remember how I came for her to the RV3DOI radio depot (this is the moderator on the RT-20) with a huge diplomat in one hand, put Belarus-59 in the Chinese “occupier's bag” and carried it on foot to my home - in one hand carried the radio tape, in the other - chumadan. I still can't remember this picture without trembling - RV3DOI turned out to be a real weightlifter. Or, maybe the radio is not very heavy - judging by the RT-20 reference book, it weighs 25 kilos, that is, a one and a half pound weight ...

A. Gorsky, it was a long time ago, and now I have forgotten, maybe this at least a little excuses my mistake ...

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